Question:
This is kind of long, sorry but I need to give you some back ground on this first. My dog Buster is very smart, he is 6 months old, he is totally house trained now & we recently have been leaving him alone in our house unsupervised when we leave to go out (which has been for about 3 weeks with no problem), he has been totally fine up until now. He was kennel trained and at night he sleeps in his kennel with the door shut (We don’t him roam the house at night while we sleep but he doesn’t mind, he sleeps through the night, also but my husband wants to start letting him but I don’t want to because I feel like I’ll be up all night worrying about what he’s getting into). In the house that I live the kitchen floor is linoleum which is old and needs to be replaced but we are going to be moving soon so it would be dumb to replace the floor (the person who buys this house has to replace the floor anyway because it’s so old, but I’m trying to keep it in livable condition until we move) but in some spots on the floor, for instance when two pieces meet in the middle of the floor it’s starting to lift but not too bad, but Buster some how has RIPPED the floor apart. It’s hard for me to block off the kitchen because of the way the house is shaped and I have already blocked off one of the rooms because he had a problem with eating out of the cats litter box. It’s not that he doesn’t listen but if we’re not home how do we handle this? Should we just start kenneling him when we leave again ? It’s not that he minds being in his kennel but I figured if he wants to roam the house that’s ok (when I come home he is sometimes sleeping in his kennel anyway. Plus I feel bad if I have to leave him home for a couple of hours in his kennel (I am a house wife so I am home with Buster almost ALL the time but I do have to leave the house every now & then). And like I said he has had no problem other than this. Also Buster listens to my husband & I very well but he knows that if we catch him doing something wrong he’s dead (only kidding) but he doesn’t do any thing wrong in front of me or if I’m home but when my husband gets up for work he lets Buster out to do his thing & lets him wonder the house while he showers, he leaves the bathroom door open so he can keep an eye on him but Buster slips away quietly & during this time Buster starts ripping the floor up again but when I shower he doesn’t move from the bathroom floor & the door is open but he doesn’t move. My husband also disciplines him but he’s not home all the time because of work, could that be why he does this when my husband supervising him. When I got up this morning I found another piece of the floor ripped up. I let Buster out of his kennel (because my husband goes to work at 6a.m. and I get up about 8:30 a.m. so he puts him back in his kennel until I get up which is fine because he goes back to sleep, also the kennel is in our bed room) & it was like he knew he did something bad, he wouldn’t leave from his kennel. Usually he comes right out but this morning he stayed in there for about a half hour. I didn’t even acknowledge the rip in front of him because he did it earlier & I was told never to disciple him unless he does it in front of you. But he never does things like this in front of me. It’s like he knew that I would be disappointed when I saw the floor & he doesn’t want to get up. Finally when he did get up he walked into the living room & sat down. I called his name & he walked into the other room with his head down like he knew he did something wrong but I still was petting him & giving him love but then he was fine. My husband also disciplines him so why does he feel like he can get away with things like this when he knows I’m not around or sleeping. We used to have this problem with our other dog who has passed away but he would do things in front of my husband but not in front of me (this dog was my husbands before we got married & had very little discipline ex.. he would eat your food right off the table while you were sitting there & go to the next plate) so when we got Buster my husband made it a huge point to really discipline him because he didn’t want another dog that wasn’t well mannered and would only listen to me. I also found out that my husband didn’t discipline Buster for ripping the floor because he didn’t see it and the last time Buster ripped the floor my husband disciplined him, it’s like if my husband disciplines him on something he’ll do it again but if I discipline him he usually doesn’t do it again and we discipline him the same way. It’s strange. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry again about this being so long. Lisa, Buster, Benny www.therescue.com/buster
Response:
Hello Lisa, The problem is that you are disciplining him the wrong way. Everything you are doing is creating stress and anxiety, and your attention to the problem is reinforcing the behavior. It will continue to get worse unless you learn to deal with behavior in a manner that your dog, not you and Rick, can understand. This is the fifth post I’ve written regarding Buster, and I expect it will be the last, unless you have questions abut he information I provide. The following is a start, I suggest you read the manual to get the rest of the information you need to properly train your dog. I don’t expect you will be interested in following my advice now, as you chosen not to previously. Good luck. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him orally, to prevent his idle mind from doing the devils work. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives." Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?: caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
Thank you for your advise but this is the first post I wrote regarding Busters behavior, my husband (Rick) must have posted something earlier about him, but thank you again for the advise. Lisa, Buster, Benny www.therescue.com/buster
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello Lisa, > The problem is that you are disciplining him the wrong way. Everything you are > doing is creating stress and anxiety, and your attention to the problem is > reinforcing the behavior. It will continue to get worse unless you learn to deal > with behavior in a manner that your dog, not you and Rick, can understand. This > is the fifth post I’ve written regarding Buster, and I expect it will be the > last, unless you have questions abut he information I provide. The following is > a start, I suggest you read the manual to get the rest of the information you > need to properly train your dog. I don’t expect you will be interested in > following my advice now, as you chosen not to previously. Good luck. > Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain > or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or > competitor in the dogs mischief. > Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, > non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be > associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. > The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want the > behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly > address the behavior with another sound and praise. > That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking about it, > and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The > sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. > In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from > chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds > immediately upon snapping your fingers. > The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of your > fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from > across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of > sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the > dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. > The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the > dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once > again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging > in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting > no, or physically removing the temptation. > That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him > will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. > The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be > dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt > at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to > do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that > behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. > The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of > elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that > behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four > completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to > sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much > quicker than that. > Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position > of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish > a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other > secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you > notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him orally, to prevent his > idle mind from doing the devils work. > "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the > greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious > truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which > they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, > and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their > lives." > Leo Tolstoy > Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more > complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have > made to date, bar none?: > caveat > If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would > rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you > have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, > pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or > punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the > dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not > harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a > trainer that knows Howe. > Sincerely, > Jerry Howe, > Wits’ End Dog Training > http://www.doggydoright.com > Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. > -Francis Bacon- > There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, > bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who > ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. > -Nietzsche- > The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned > qualities. > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning > centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop > and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. > The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split > seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of > forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. > -Jerry Howe-
Response:
We never discipline our dog by hitting him or any thing like that we just tell him no & he listens. I just wanted to clear that up.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello Lisa, > The problem is that you are disciplining him the wrong way. Everything you are > doing is creating stress and anxiety, and your attention to the problem is > reinforcing the behavior. It will continue to get worse unless you learn to deal > with behavior in a manner that your dog, not you and Rick, can understand. This > is the fifth post I’ve written regarding Buster, and I expect it will be the > last, unless you have questions abut he information I provide. The following is > a start, I suggest you read the manual to get the rest of the information you > need to properly train your dog. I don’t expect you will be interested in > following my advice now, as you chosen not to previously. Good luck. > Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain > or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or > competitor in the dogs mischief. > Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, > non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be > associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. > The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want the > behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly > address the behavior with another sound and praise. > That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking about it, > and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The > sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. > In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from > chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds > immediately upon snapping your fingers. > The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of your > fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from > across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of > sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the > dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. > The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the > dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once > again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging > in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting > no, or physically removing the temptation. > That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him > will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. > The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be > dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt > at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to > do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that > behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. > The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of > elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that > behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four > completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to > sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much > quicker than that. > Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position > of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish > a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other > secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you > notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him orally, to prevent his > idle mind from doing the devils work. > "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the > greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious > truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which > they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, > and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their > lives." > Leo Tolstoy > Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more > complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have > made to date, bar none?: > caveat > If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would > rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you > have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, > pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or > punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the > dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not > harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a > trainer that knows Howe. > Sincerely, > Jerry Howe, > Wits’ End Dog Training > http://www.doggydoright.com > Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. > -Francis Bacon- > There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, > bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who > ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. > -Nietzsche- > The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned > qualities. > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning > centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop > and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. > The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split > seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of > forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. > -Jerry Howe-
Response:
> We never discipline our dog by hitting him or any thing like that we just > tell him no & he listens. I just wanted to clear that up.
Hello Lisa, I never meant to imply that you were punishing. Just mentioning the behavior in a corrective manner is enough to cause the difficulty. J>
Response:
There is an easy solution. Kennel the dog when you cannot keep your eyes on him. He is still a pup afterall. Disciplining him after the fact won’t work, so keeping him somewhere safe and out of trouble is the best bet. When you do have him out and about, keep an eye on him so you can stop the behaviours when they occur. You are lucky and so is your dog that you are home most of the time. Being kenneled for a few hours a day will not harm him. Donna – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This is kind of long, sorry but I need to give you some back ground on this > first. My dog Buster is very smart, he is 6 months old, he is totally house > trained now & we recently have been leaving him alone in our house > unsupervised when we leave to go out (which has been for about 3 weeks with > no problem), he has been totally fine up until now. He was kennel trained > and at night he sleeps in his kennel with the door shut (We don’t him roam > the house at night while we sleep but he doesn’t mind, he sleeps through the > night, also but my husband wants to start letting him but I don’t want to > because I feel like I’ll be up all night worrying about what he’s getting > into). In the house that I live the kitchen floor is linoleum which is old > and needs to be replaced but we are going to be moving soon so it would be > dumb to replace the floor (the person who buys this house has to replace the > floor anyway because it’s so old, but I’m trying to keep it in livable > condition until we move) but in some spots on the floor, for instance when > two pieces meet in the middle of the floor it’s starting to lift but not too > bad, but Buster some how has RIPPED the floor apart. It’s hard for me to > block off the kitchen because of the way the house is shaped and I have > already blocked off one of the rooms because he had a problem with eating > out of the cats litter box. It’s not that he doesn’t listen but if we’re not > home how do we handle this? Should we just start kenneling him when we leave > again ? It’s not that he minds being in his kennel but I figured if he wants > to roam the house that’s ok (when I come home he is sometimes sleeping in > his kennel anyway. Plus I feel bad if I have to leave him home for a couple > of hours in his kennel (I am a house wife so I am home with Buster almost > ALL the time but I do have to leave the house every now & then). And like I > said he has had no problem other than this. Also Buster listens to my > husband & I very well but he knows that if we catch him doing something > wrong he’s dead (only kidding) but he doesn’t do any thing wrong in front of > me or if I’m home but when my husband gets up for work he lets Buster out to > do his thing & lets him wonder the house while he showers, he leaves the > bathroom door open so he can keep an eye on him but Buster slips away > quietly & during this time Buster starts ripping the floor up again but when > I shower he doesn’t move from the bathroom floor & the door is open but he > doesn’t move. My husband also disciplines him but he’s not home all the time > because of work, could that be why he does this when my husband supervising > him. When I got up this morning I found another piece of the floor ripped > up. I let Buster out of his kennel (because my husband goes to work at 6a.m. > and I get up about 8:30 a.m. so he puts him back in his kennel until I get > up which is fine because he goes back to sleep, also the kennel is in our > bed room) & it was like he knew he did something bad, he wouldn’t leave from > his kennel. Usually he comes right out but this morning he stayed in there > for about a half hour. I didn’t even acknowledge the rip in front of him > because he did it earlier & I was told never to disciple him unless he does > it in front of you. But he never does things like this in front of me. It’s > like he knew that I would be disappointed when I saw the floor & he doesn’t > want to get up. Finally when he did get up he walked into the living room & > sat down. I called his name & he walked into the other room with his head > down like he knew he did something wrong but I still was petting him & > giving him love but then he was fine. My husband also disciplines him so > why does he feel like he can get away with things like this when he knows > I’m not around or sleeping. We used to have this problem with our other dog > who has passed away but he would do things in front of my husband but not in > front of me (this dog was my husbands before we got married & had very > little discipline ex.. he would eat your food right off the table while you > were sitting there & go to the next plate) so when we got Buster my husband > made it a huge point to really discipline him because he didn’t want another > dog that wasn’t well mannered and would only listen to me. I also found out > that my husband didn’t discipline Buster for ripping the floor because he > didn’t see it and the last time Buster ripped the floor my husband > disciplined him, it’s like if my husband disciplines him on something he’ll > do it again but if I discipline him he usually doesn’t do it again and we > discipline him the same way. It’s strange. Any advice would be greatly > appreciated. Sorry again about this being so long. > Lisa, Buster, Benny www.therescue.com/buster
Response:
Thanks for the great advise Donna. Your defanitly right, a couple of hours in his crate won’t kill him. Do you think he will always have to be kenneled when we leave the house or do you think when he gets older he will be able to have free roam of the house? Thanks again Lisa, Buster & Benny www.therescue.com/buster
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There is an easy solution. Kennel the dog when you cannot keep your eyes > on him. He is still a pup afterall. Disciplining him after the fact > won’t work, so keeping him somewhere safe and out of trouble is the best > bet. When you do have him out and about, keep an eye on him so you can > stop the behaviours when they occur. You are lucky and so is your dog > that you are home most of the time. Being kenneled for a few hours a day > will not harm him. > Donna > This is kind of long, sorry but I need to give you some back ground on this > first. My dog Buster is very smart, he is 6 months old, he is totally house > trained now & we recently have been leaving him alone in our house > unsupervised when we leave to go out (which has been for about 3 weeks with > no problem), he has been totally fine up until now. He was kennel trained > and at night he sleeps in his kennel with the door shut (We don’t him roam > the house at night while we sleep but he doesn’t mind, he sleeps through the > night, also but my husband wants to start letting him but I don’t want to > because I feel like I’ll be up all night worrying about what he’s getting > into). In the house that I live the kitchen floor is linoleum which is old > and needs to be replaced but we are going to be moving soon so it would be > dumb to replace the floor (the person who buys this house has to replace the > floor anyway because it’s so old, but I’m trying to keep it in livable > condition until we move) but in some spots on the floor, for instance when > two pieces meet in the middle of the floor it’s starting to lift but not too > bad, but Buster some how has RIPPED the floor apart. It’s hard for me to > block off the kitchen because of the way the house is shaped and I have > already blocked off one of the rooms because he had a problem with eating > out of the cats litter box. It’s not that he doesn’t listen but if we’re not > home how do we handle this? Should we just start kenneling him when we leave > again ? It’s not that he minds being in his kennel but I figured if he wants > to roam the house that’s ok (when I come home he is sometimes sleeping in > his kennel anyway. Plus I feel bad if I have to leave him home for a couple > of hours in his kennel (I am a house wife so I am home with Buster almost > ALL the time but I do have to leave the house every now & then). And like I > said he has had no problem other than this. Also Buster listens to my > husband & I very well but he knows that if we catch him doing something > wrong he’s dead (only kidding) but he doesn’t do any thing wrong in front of > me or if I’m home but when my husband gets up for work he lets Buster out to > do his thing & lets him wonder the house while he showers, he leaves the > bathroom door open so he can keep an eye on him but Buster slips away > quietly & during this time Buster starts ripping the floor up again but when > I shower he doesn’t move from the bathroom floor & the door is open but he > doesn’t move. My husband also disciplines him but he’s not home all the time > because of work, could that be why he does this when my husband supervising > him. When I got up this morning I found another piece of the floor ripped > up. I let Buster out of his kennel (because my husband goes to work at 6a.m. > and I get up about 8:30 a.m. so he puts him back in his kennel until I get > up which is fine because he goes back to sleep, also the kennel is in our > bed room) & it was like he knew he did something bad, he wouldn’t leave from > his kennel. Usually he comes right out but this morning he stayed in there > for about a half hour. I didn’t even acknowledge the rip in front of him > because he did it earlier & I was told never to disciple him unless he does > it in front of you. But he never does things like this in front of me. It’s > like he knew that I would be disappointed when I saw the floor & he doesn’t > want to get up. Finally when he did get up he walked into the living room & > sat down. I called his name & he walked into the other room with his head > down like he knew he did something wrong but I still was petting him & > giving him love but then he was fine. My husband also disciplines him so > why does he feel like he can get away with things like this when he knows > I’m not around or sleeping. We used to have this problem with our other dog > who has passed away but he would do things in front of my husband but not in > front of me (this dog was my husbands before we got married & had very > little discipline ex.. he would eat your food right off the table while you > were sitting there & go to the next plate) so when we got Buster my husband > made it a huge point to really discipline him because he didn’t want another > dog that wasn’t well mannered and would only listen to me. I also found out > that my husband didn’t discipline Buster for ripping the floor because he > didn’t see it and the last time Buster ripped the floor my husband > disciplined him, it’s like if my husband disciplines him on something he’ll > do it again but if I discipline him he usually doesn’t do it again and we > discipline him the same way. It’s strange. Any advice would be greatly > appreciated. Sorry again about this being so long. > Lisa, Buster, Benny www.therescue.com/buster
Response:
Thanks Jerry for the advise, I am going to try your idea. Thanks again. Lisa, Buster & Benny www.therescue.com/buster
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We never discipline our dog by hitting him or any thing like that we just > tell him no & he listens. I just wanted to clear that up. > Hello Lisa, > I never meant to imply that you were punishing. Just mentioning the behavior in > a corrective manner is enough to cause the difficulty. J>
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