Question:
>As someone who’s in the process of finishing about 800 sq ft of basement, the >one thing I can tell you is this: plan, plan, and plan some more before you >start. Buy a $50 home architect package(I used Broderbund’s Home Architect >3D) and start designing. Ask for other people to look at it. You’ll be >amazed the things you didn’t see. The biggest issue I ran into in terms of >layout was where to put the bathroom. Since no plumbing was roughed in when >the house was built and I didn’t want to cut a hole in the floor or use a >flush up, the toilet had to be near the waste pipe. That dictated a lot of >the design.
This is good advice, especially if there are multiple rooms and a bathroom. Even though these software packages allow you to do a virtual reality walk thru, you really need mock it up in reality. If it’s just one big room then I wouldn’t bother. But for multiple rooms, use some masking tape and lay out the wall, doors, sinks, toilet, shower, etc on the ground. This will give you the feel for the flow or if certain dimensions "feel" right. What’s really hard to do in the software packages is to design new elements around the existing ones. For example, it’s easier to build a new basement wall perpendicular to the 1st floor joists than it is parallel. If it is going to run parallel, then do you want the new wall to align with an existing 1st floor joist or is it between two of them. Existing plumbing, sewer, HVAC ducts or support beams might interfere with the placement of walls or doors. If any doors are going to lead to a storage area or workshop, then try to design in a wider door (say 36") rather than the standard 32" door. -al sung A Sung Consulting Hopkinton,MA
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->As someone who’s in the process of finishing about 800 sq ft of basement, > the >one thing I can tell you is this: plan, plan, and plan some more before > you >start. Buy a $50 home architect package(I used Broderbund’s Home Architect >3D) and start designing. Ask for other people to look at it. You’ll be >amazed the things you didn’t see. The biggest issue I ran into in terms of >layout was where to put the bathroom. Since no plumbing was roughed in > when >the house was built and I didn’t want to cut a hole in the floor or use a >flush up, the toilet had to be near the waste pipe. That dictated a lot of >the design. > This is good advice, especially if there are multiple rooms and a bathroom. > Even though these software packages allow you to do a virtual reality walk > thru, you really need mock it up in reality. If it’s just one big room then > I wouldn’t bother. But for multiple rooms, use some masking tape and lay > out the wall, doors, sinks, toilet, shower, etc on the ground. This will > give you the feel for the flow or if certain dimensions "feel" right. > What’s really hard to do in the software packages is to design new elements > around the existing ones. For example, it’s easier to build a new basement > wall perpendicular to the 1st floor joists than it is parallel. If it is > going to run parallel, then do you want the new wall to align with an > existing 1st floor joist or is it between two of them. Existing plumbing, > sewer, HVAC ducts or support beams might interfere with the placement of > walls or doors. > If any doors are going to lead to a storage area or workshop, then try to > design in a wider door (say 36") rather than the standard 32" door. > -al sung > A Sung Consulting > Hopkinton,MA
What I haven’t seen in these responses are local building codes which must be followed if there is to be an inspection. Check on window egress for fire safety, door placement, etc. — Larry T. Suddarth…University of Virginia…Physics Department 205 McCormick Road…Charlottesville, VA 22904
Response:
I agree with it!!!! I hate the look of a drop ceiling! I drywalled the ceiling of my last house and over 14 years with it, never needed access!!!! Now I’ve also drywalled the ceiling of the new house! Just finishing up a bath and bedroom here now, and drywall will be on those ceilings as well. I might suggest you run some 2" pvc conduit thru it if need be, to facilitate running wires in the future. I also had a run put in from my basement to the attic when the house was built! Clever, eh? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I see most of the posters have disagreed with my suggestion for a drywall > ceiling. I still think that a drywall ceiling is better for a couple > reasons. First, it makes the basement look more like the rest of the house. > Acoustical tiles, whatever the style, still don’t compare to the look of a > finished ceiling. Second, it allows for the maximum of headroom. Even > though that might only be a couple inches higher, when dealing with a > basement’s ceiling height, a couple inches is important. Finally, I guess > I’m not going to worry about covering up plumbing, ductwork, etc. when > there’s miles of the stuff covered up by drywall in the rest of the house. > Anyway, to each his own.
Response:
Along the same lines, you may want to use pressure treated lumber for at least the lower plate, if not the studs as well. And make -absolutely certain- that your basement is DRY! –Paul E Musselman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >One thing I read somewhere was, if you are using Sheetrock for the walls, >then make sure you raise it 1/2 of an inch or so off the floor to prevent >wicking on water by the sheetrock, it you ever have minor flooding in your >basement. The Baseboard trim will cover the gap. >I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone >have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s >and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type >suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first >time. >Thanks – Bill
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PaulMmn writes: >Along the same lines, you may want to use pressure treated lumber for >at least the lower plate, if not the studs as well. >And make -absolutely certain- that your basement is DRY!
The dry basement is a good idea: PT sole plates are a decent idea, if you fasten them with screws set twice as close as normal (at least once every two feet). Forget PT as studs: they twist as they dry out (and they all come wet these days). Charlie Self Word Worker
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Is it unhealthy to use PT lumber indoor? I am concerned with the possibility of unhealthy gas from the PT chemicals. /David. | The above opinion is mine and mine only. | | To reply, replace NoSpam with davidha | _______ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Along the same lines, you may want to use pressure treated lumber for > at least the lower plate, if not the studs as well. > And make -absolutely certain- that your basement is DRY! > –Paul E Musselman
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Here we go again. The short answer…..no. In fact it is code for sill plates in many areas. Matt D In article – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Is it unhealthy to use PT lumber indoor? >I am concerned with the possibility of unhealthy gas from the PT >chemicals. >/David. >| The above opinion is mine and mine only. | >| To reply, replace NoSpam with davidha | >_______ > Along the same lines, you may want to use pressure treated lumber for > at least the lower plate, if not the studs as well. > And make -absolutely certain- that your basement is DRY! > –Paul E Musselman
Response:
> PaulMmn writes: >Along the same lines, you may want to use pressure treated lumber for >at least the lower plate, if not the studs as well. >And make -absolutely certain- that your basement is DRY! > The dry basement is a good idea:
My problem exactly. We found a 1/16th crack which isn’t dry when we took down the existing insulation. Would you recommend silicone or epoxy to stop the water leakage? Lorna
Response:
I see most of the posters have disagreed with my suggestion for a drywall ceiling. I still think that a drywall ceiling is better for a couple reasons. First, it makes the basement look more like the rest of the house. Acoustical tiles, whatever the style, still don’t compare to the look of a finished ceiling. Second, it allows for the maximum of headroom. Even though that might only be a couple inches higher, when dealing with a basement’s ceiling height, a couple inches is important. Finally, I guess I’m not going to worry about covering up plumbing, ductwork, etc. when there’s miles of the stuff covered up by drywall in the rest of the house. Anyway, to each his own.
Response:
I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first time. Thanks – Bill
Response:
> I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone > have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s > and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type > suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first > time. > Thanks – Bill
Bill, As someone who’s in the process of finishing about 800 sq ft of basement, the one thing I can tell you is this: plan, plan, and plan some more before you start. Buy a $50 home architect package(I used Broderbund’s Home Architect 3D) and start designing. Ask for other people to look at it. You’ll be amazed the things you didn’t see. The biggest issue I ran into in terms of layout was where to put the bathroom. Since no plumbing was roughed in when the house was built and I didn’t want to cut a hole in the floor or use a flush up, the toilet had to be near the waste pipe. That dictated a lot of the design. I would suggest regular 2 by framing with R-13 insulation rather than 1 by with foam board insulation. I went with a drywall ceiling rather than a drop which actually allowed me to get more ceiling height. You might want to consider painting the walls with a moisture sealer before you start. I didn’t but I saw the stuff at Lowes. How are you going to heat it? I was able to tap into my existing system so it was easy, but was lucky enough to have a big enough system to handle the squared footage. Anyway, hope this gives you a place to start. If this wasn’t the kind of input you were looking for, my apologies. Jeff
Response:
> I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone > have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s > and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type > suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first > time.
My house came with the basement about 3/4 finished. The previous owner did most of the work himself, and he was a good carpenter but a pretty sorry electrician. From that perspective, I would suggest overbuilding the electrical part. You could even install fixtures and wiring and leave them unconnected, if panel capacity is an issue (upgrade it later). *Do* buy and read a copy of the National Electrical Code – I recommend the Handbook version. This is a big hardbound book costing the better part of $100, but it contains a wealth of useful information that could save you huge amounts of grief. And it’s probably a good idea to follow the Code when installing other wiring that isn’t explicitly covered by the Code, such as those conduit runs for your 100baseT home LAN :^) Other than that, I would have to respectfully disagree with the poster who suggested a drywall ceiling rather than a drop ceiling. Drywall is fine if you *know* you will *never* need to get up there again, but I really like the fact that a drop ceiling gives a finished look while leaving the "guts" accessible. Having said that, even drywall is preferable to those damned interlocking acoustic tiles I have on my basement ceiling. At least with drywall, if you have to punch a hole in it for some reason you can patch and paint it afterwards. The acoustic tile I had to knock out last year is just an eyesore until I do something with the ceiling. Yet another suggestion I’ve had is to just leave the joists exposed, and paint everything up there black. — Hmm… this "Spam-B-Gone" doesn’t seem to work… What would happen if I pulled the plug on the Reality Engine?
Response:
One thing I read somewhere was, if you are using Sheetrock for the walls, then make sure you raise it 1/2 of an inch or so off the floor to prevent wicking on water by the sheetrock, it you ever have minor flooding in your basement. The Baseboard trim will cover the gap. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone >have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s >and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type >suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first >time. >Thanks – Bill
Response:
: I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone : have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s : and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type : suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first : time. : Thanks – Bill Makea plan of all electrical, plumbing and other things you or a subsequent owner might need access to – take some pictures too if you can. Nail them up in your furnace room. John van Gurp
Response:
> I am getting ready to have the basement finished in our house. Anyone > have any tips, or can point me in the right direction, in terms of do"s > and don’ts? I am thinking about structural and engineering type > suggestions, rather than cosmetic. Would like to do it right the first > time.
It’s good to hear you want to do it "right" as opposed to asking what’s the cheapest way to do it. I guess it kinda depends on what your basement is like, but in general I would 1. Frame in walls with 2×4 studs 16 inches on center, just like normal house framing. The sole (bottom) plate should be treated lumber. 2. Run wiring, plumbing, heating 3. Install 3.5" thick fiberglass insulation between studs 4. install plastic vapor barrier over the walls 5. Drywall 6. Install suspended acoustical ceiling This kind of general, but you get the idea. There’s also other ways, such as thinner walls, but this works well. Structually speaking, try not to move load bearing walls or beams. — John Shear Chippewa Falls, WI
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