Question:

sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, at 3:30 a.m. i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.  i feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! kate

Response:

>briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that >he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the >paramedics.

That must have been terrifying for you.  Hope things settle soon.  Hang in there kiddo. Char "Remember, I’m pulling for ya’.  We’re all in this together."  Red Green

Response:

((((((((((Kate & Butch))))))))) You two remain always in my prayers. I hope both of you are getting some much needed rest and that the docs get to the bottom of this latest setback.  Thank goodness you were able to get help so quickly.  Praying for better days. — Nann remove the Gator cheer to email me "To array a man’s will against his sickness is the supreme art of medicine." …Henry Ward Beecher

Response:

How frightening for you and especially Butch.  I hope the docs can figure out the cause of the attacks for sure so they can stop them. Lyn – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 > level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.  i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! > now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! > kate

—–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Kate, My heart goes out to the two of you. I feel for you big time. Know that when I light my candle today I will be thinking of you and saying a prayer and sending good thoughts your way. I wish there was more I could do for you though. — Love and hugs to all Good thoughts coming your way too. Squirrely Jo

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 > level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me. so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too. i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! > now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! > kate

Response:

M

Response:

call, but know that I’m thinking of you both! Love ya – DeeTee DeeTee and Bob Taggart http://home.earthlink.net/~bdtaggart/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 > level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me. so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too. i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! > now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! > kate

Response:

Boy can I empathize with Butch’s experience of this am.  I have a Panic disorder that goes along quite nicely with my Bipolar2 diagnosis.  I am permitted to take up to 8mgs of Ativan daily if I need it.  But I remember to well the first attack I had while visiting my grandmother at her nursing home.  The RN on her unit was convinced I was having a heart attack and called 911.  Well after a few hours in the hosp and the BP came down, my oxygen sats returned to normal and my ekg was fine;  the ER doc got a good look at my Hosp chart and saw my Bipolar diagnosis and right away diagnosed the panic attack.  I now have them daily some minor, some major and they are no fun.  Here’s hoping that Butch will not have to experience another especially since the mimic the chf symptoms so perfectly. Bruce

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > call, but know that I’m thinking of you both! > Love ya – DeeTee > DeeTee and Bob Taggart > http://home.earthlink.net/~bdtaggart/ > sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound > that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they > skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately. his > O2 > level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought > it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him > clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription > filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me. > so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too. > i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh > at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy > cow! > now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the > actors! > kate

Response:

>  and this kid used to laugh at >soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! >now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors!

Rest easy Kate you have earned it.  Wish I had some good advice for you. — MZ Visit my website: http:\www.mzuschlag.com

Response:

(((((((((((((((((((Kate and Butch)))))))))))))))))))) I pray this new year will bring you both the peace you deserve. Donna

Response:

You guys sure don’t need this along with everything else!  Hope today is better and that you have both had a decent nights sleep.  It does help explain Butch screaming in your ear a few days ago.  The tension he has been under would floor anyone. Thank heaven they figured out what is going on.  Will be sending peaceful and restful prayers your way today. — Jo Firey "Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away."

> sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out. they skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER

immediately.  his O2 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan

prescription filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.  i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely

believable.  holy cow! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! > kate

Response:

>Boy can I empathize with Butch’s experience of this am.  I have a Panic >disorder that goes along quite nicely with my Bipolar2 diagnosis.  I am >permitted to take up to 8mgs of Ativan daily if I need it.  But I remember >to well the first attack I had while visiting my grandmother at her nursing >home.  The RN on her unit was convinced I was having a heart attack and >called 911.  Well after a few hours in the hosp and the BP came down, my >oxygen sats returned to normal and my ekg was fine;  the ER doc got a good >look at my Hosp chart and saw my Bipolar diagnosis and right away diagnosed >the panic attack.  I now have them daily some minor, some major and they are >no fun.  Here’s hoping that Butch will not have to experience another >especially since the mimic the chf symptoms so perfectly. >Bruce

Bruce- That is FASCINATING. I mean, it sucks for you, but it fascinates me because I also (you may or may not know) am Bipolar type 2. Been well controlled for a few years now, but I get horrible panic attacks, especially if i am stressed out. I wake up in the dead of night with my heart racing, mouth dry, can’t breathe, chest hurts, well you know the rest… Some of the time my mind is racing around something relatively minor that has been bothering me a little, but in the middle of the night it becomes a giant monster. Other times there is no apparent reason. I also have a HUGE fear of middle-of-the-night fire, have since I was about 5 or 6, and it can cause me to panic and not be abe to get to sleep. I try to keep a small supply of valium or Xanax around for those times. Blech. Fun with brain chemistry…. Aim

Response:

>sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that >he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the >paramedics. <snip> >i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, >i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.

I hope you’re still sleeping. *hugs* Let’s see if we can try to get together soonest. Aim

Response:

> sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that

— Di "May all your weeds be wildflowers." Anonymous dabell at optonline dot net www.pbase.com/di

Response:

    Enough already! I’m sending tons of prayers and positive thoughts that you’ll get a break very soon. You both need some rest and peace. Hoping your hills are never too steep! Be well, Patty

Response:

Oh Kate  Hope you got some deep sleep. You need it lady. My mother’s doctor finally told my mother to quit trying to help my father at home. Told her that if she made herself sick, she would be no use to him. I keep thinking about what he said every time I read a post from you when you have had another visit to the ER. My mother found a tiny nursing home, close by that had only 25 patients. Was owned at the time by a member of our church so he got moved to the front of the list. Daddy’s mind as well as his health was beginning to go and I know that is not Butch’s problem. ?_{,,,=./, [kitten helping] My mother visited my father every day. As his mind failed further, I asked her why she didn’t give herself a break occasionally. She said that she HAD to go. I think you could understand that totally. Anyway, not suggesting that Butch needs a nursing home but am suggesting that you let your PCP know the kind of stress you are under because of Butch’s illness. You know you have my prayers and my love. Duckie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that > he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the > paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped > the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 > level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments > might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a > progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it > might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble > breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help > get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching > the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i > called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and > settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, > at 3:30 a.m. > i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, > i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.  i > feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at > soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! > now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! > kate

Response:

thanks, everyone!  i sure appreciate the support. both of us slept past eleven today.  i couldn’t believe it.  must be a first!  aha!  it is— january 1st.LOL!  he’s a lot better today, though slightly confused about what hit him yesterday.  we’ll be calling his cardiologist tomorrow to hopefully get more answers about this.  guess i have to admit i was a little scared, lyn and char, because i didn’t know what was occurring, but i was also strongly motivated to do something. you’re right, duckie, it is time i had a talk to my pcp.  and jo, i think you’re right too.  i kind of suspected his scream was something like that, but wasn’t sure where it came from or what it was about. thank you, all of you, for your good wishes, prayers and good energies and thoughts. kate

sigh . . . briefly capsulizing—butch had a anxiety attack so profound that he couldn’t even speak to tell anybody what was wrong, not even the paramedics.  he could just mouth words, but no sound came out.  they skipped the customary proceedures and decided to take him to ER immediately.  his O2 level was at 78% when he arrived.  ER dr. thinks his naturcor treatments might be causing the anxiety.  butch had a treatment today and i noticed a progressive problem developing when he was back home from it, but thought it might be the start of another chf episode, because he was having trouble breathing and using the nitro spray.  by 10:30pm, after struggling to help get him out of his chair and into the bathroom, then watching him clutching the sink while walking in one spot, unable to tell me what was wrong, i called 911.   by 10:45 they had him enroute.  i just got him back home and settled into bed.  and i ran around getting the ativan prescription filled, at 3:30 a.m. i think he is going to sleep deeply tonight and hope he won’t need me.  so, i’m taking a strong painpill, cuz i need it, and heading for bed now too.  i feel like a damn drama-queen in a soap opera.  and this kid used to laugh at soaps and think soaps were too intense to be remotely believable.  holy cow! now, i think the emmys should be awarded to real people and not the actors! kate

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Class A is triple wall, are you *sure* you didn’t mean Class C which is > single wall?? > Yes, sorry.  Class C > Put Class B in a soffit with at least 1" clearance all around than forget > about it… Keep in mind that most codes require access for periodic > inspection… > Only problem, Class B is wider, and due to the furnace, there isn’t room for > 4" Class B behind the furnace.  Can I just run Class C behind the furnace, > and > just Class B in the Bathroom?

  Going back to the original situation where the installers   insisted upon 4" vent instead of the 3" the heater used to have:   If the heater is listed for use with a 3" draft hood   (i.e., comes with), simply run 3" vent all the way to the   new chimney liner (B vent in the wall/soffit).     The fact that the liner is 4" doesn’t mean the entire run has to be. Jim

Response:

As long as you have 6" clearance to combustibles wherever you have Class C…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Class A is triple wall, are you *sure* you didn’t mean Class C which is > single wall?? > Yes, sorry.  Class C > Put Class B in a soffit with at least 1" clearance all around than forget > about it… Keep in mind that most codes require access for periodic > inspection… > Only problem, Class B is wider, and due to the furnace, there isn’t room for > 4" Class B behind the furnace.  Can I just run Class C behind the furnace, > and > just Class B in the Bathroom? > > Okay this is a kind of complex problem, and it takes a while to > describe. > > 1) The house is old 1941 Vintage. > > 2) The original furnace was a 70,000 BTU Natural gas furnace. vented > with > 4 > > " A Vent to a chimney/ > > 3) The original water heater was 40 gallons and probably 40,000 BTU’s > > Natural gas. Vented with 3" duct to the same chimney. > > The original furnace and water heater shared the chimney. > > 4) I refinished the bathroom next to the furnace, so the flue pipes were > > covered over with Drywall.  I called the HVAC guys and they said > > "FYI, you need to convert to B vent if you want to drywall that.  So I > did.. > > The Furnace was changed out to a direct vent unit and the > > Water heater was upgraded to have 3" B vent. in the bathroom wall. > > 5) SO over the next few years, i keep getting odd ball CO alerts. mostly > in > > the spring.  The Fire Department is out, the Gas Company is out, > > the HVAC guys are out.  Conclusion: "You have an orphan chimney problem > and > > we need to sleeve your chimney to make it smaller". > > They also declare that the water heater needs 4" chimney pipe. So they > > sleeve the Chimney and replace the 3" B vent with 4" A Vent. > > I say "What about fire, etc, and they put in some metal around the A > Vent > in > > the drywall so i was happy. > > 6) The CO alerts stop happening so I’m happy. > > 7) I replaced the hot water heater this fall by hiring a licensed > plumber. > > He mentions nothing about the flues. > > 8) I replace the 90+ furnace this winter, the HVAC guy mentions the > flues > > are an issue on the Water Heater, but it’s not > > his problem.  he just replaces the Furnace. > > 9)  The HVAC guys plumber comes out to look at the furnace job and says > > "This water heater will not pass and therefore the > > furnace won’t pass". > > 10)  The HVAC PLUMBER says the WH needs a 4" B Vent and we have to rip > out > > the drywall to replace this and reset the furnace > > to give it more space. > > So can I just put more metal in the drywall?  6 years, it’s been in this > > configuration without charring, coking, caramelizing, the big metal > plates > > we put in with the liner seem to act as good heat sinks. > > This is some really bad ASCII art, showing the water heater the furnace > and > > the Bathroom Wall and Toilet. The 4" flue runs > > behind the furnace and into the Chimney right behind the toilet wall. > >    WH      | FUR     ||    Toilet

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Class A is triple wall, are you *sure* you didn’t mean Class C which is > > single wall?? > Yes, sorry.  Class C > > Put Class B in a soffit with at least 1" clearance all around than forget > > about it… Keep in mind that most codes require access for periodic > > inspection… > Only problem, Class B is wider, and due to the furnace, there isn’t room for > 4" Class B behind the furnace.  Can I just run Class C behind the furnace, > and > just Class B in the Bathroom? >   Going back to the original situation where the installers >   insisted upon 4" vent instead of the 3" the heater used to have: >   If the heater is listed for use with a 3" draft hood >   (i.e., comes with), simply run 3" vent all the way to the >   new chimney liner (B vent in the wall/soffit). >   The fact that the liner is 4" doesn’t mean the entire run has to be.

As I read the code,  it’s listed for 3" vent, except on longer runs where it demands 4", and I’m just a little past the 3" limit.  Hey, I don’t make the rules, I just try and pathetically follow them.

Response:

Okay this is a kind of complex problem, and it takes a while to describe. 1) The house is old 1941 Vintage. 2) The original furnace was a 70,000 BTU Natural gas furnace. vented with 4 " A Vent to a chimney/ 3) The original water heater was 40 gallons and probably 40,000 BTU’s Natural gas. Vented with 3" duct to the same chimney. The original furnace and water heater shared the chimney. 4) I refinished the bathroom next to the furnace, so the flue pipes were covered over with Drywall.  I called the HVAC guys and they said "FYI, you need to convert to B vent if you want to drywall that.  So I did.. The Furnace was changed out to a direct vent unit and the Water heater was upgraded to have 3" B vent. in the bathroom wall. 5) SO over the next few years, i keep getting odd ball CO alerts. mostly in the spring.  The Fire Department is out, the Gas Company is out, the HVAC guys are out.  Conclusion: "You have an orphan chimney problem and we need to sleeve your chimney to make it smaller". They also declare that the water heater needs 4" chimney pipe. So they sleeve the Chimney and replace the 3" B vent with 4" A Vent. I say "What about fire, etc, and they put in some metal around the A Vent in the drywall so i was happy. 6) The CO alerts stop happening so I’m happy. 7) I replaced the hot water heater this fall by hiring a licensed plumber. He mentions nothing about the flues. 8) I replace the 90+ furnace this winter, the HVAC guy mentions the flues are an issue on the Water Heater, but it’s not his problem.  he just replaces the Furnace. 9)  The HVAC guys plumber comes out to look at the furnace job and says "This water heater will not pass and therefore the furnace won’t pass". 10)  The HVAC PLUMBER says the WH needs a 4" B Vent and we have to rip out the drywall to replace this and reset the furnace to give it more space. So can I just put more metal in the drywall?  6 years, it’s been in this configuration without charring, coking, caramelizing, the big metal plates we put in with the liner seem to act as good heat sinks. This is some really bad ASCII art, showing the water heater the furnace and the Bathroom Wall and Toilet. The 4" flue runs behind the furnace and into the Chimney right behind the toilet wall.    WH      | FUR     ||    Toilet

Response:

Class A is triple wall, are you *sure* you didn’t mean Class C which is single wall?? Put Class B in a soffit with at least 1" clearance all around than forget about it… Keep in mind that most codes require access for periodic inspection…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Okay this is a kind of complex problem, and it takes a while to describe. > 1) The house is old 1941 Vintage. > 2) The original furnace was a 70,000 BTU Natural gas furnace. vented with 4 > " A Vent to a chimney/ > 3) The original water heater was 40 gallons and probably 40,000 BTU’s > Natural gas. Vented with 3" duct to the same chimney. > The original furnace and water heater shared the chimney. > 4) I refinished the bathroom next to the furnace, so the flue pipes were > covered over with Drywall.  I called the HVAC guys and they said > "FYI, you need to convert to B vent if you want to drywall that.  So I did.. > The Furnace was changed out to a direct vent unit and the > Water heater was upgraded to have 3" B vent. in the bathroom wall. > 5) SO over the next few years, i keep getting odd ball CO alerts. mostly in > the spring.  The Fire Department is out, the Gas Company is out, > the HVAC guys are out.  Conclusion: "You have an orphan chimney problem and > we need to sleeve your chimney to make it smaller". > They also declare that the water heater needs 4" chimney pipe. So they > sleeve the Chimney and replace the 3" B vent with 4" A Vent. > I say "What about fire, etc, and they put in some metal around the A Vent in > the drywall so i was happy. > 6) The CO alerts stop happening so I’m happy. > 7) I replaced the hot water heater this fall by hiring a licensed plumber. > He mentions nothing about the flues. > 8) I replace the 90+ furnace this winter, the HVAC guy mentions the flues > are an issue on the Water Heater, but it’s not > his problem.  he just replaces the Furnace. > 9)  The HVAC guys plumber comes out to look at the furnace job and says > "This water heater will not pass and therefore the > furnace won’t pass". > 10)  The HVAC PLUMBER says the WH needs a 4" B Vent and we have to rip out > the drywall to replace this and reset the furnace > to give it more space. > So can I just put more metal in the drywall?  6 years, it’s been in this > configuration without charring, coking, caramelizing, the big metal plates > we put in with the liner seem to act as good heat sinks. > This is some really bad ASCII art, showing the water heater the furnace and > the Bathroom Wall and Toilet. The 4" flue runs > behind the furnace and into the Chimney right behind the toilet wall. >    WH      | FUR     ||    Toilet

Response:

> Class A is triple wall, are you *sure* you didn’t mean Class C which is > single wall??

Yes, sorry.  Class C > Put Class B in a soffit with at least 1" clearance all around than forget > about it… Keep in mind that most codes require access for periodic > inspection…

Only problem, Class B is wider, and due to the furnace, there isn’t room for 4" Class B behind the furnace.  Can I just run Class C behind the furnace, and just Class B in the Bathroom? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Okay this is a kind of complex problem, and it takes a while to describe. > 1) The house is old 1941 Vintage. > 2) The original furnace was a 70,000 BTU Natural gas furnace. vented with > 4 > " A Vent to a chimney/ > 3) The original water heater was 40 gallons and probably 40,000 BTU’s > Natural gas. Vented with 3" duct to the same chimney. > The original furnace and water heater shared the chimney. > 4) I refinished the bathroom next to the furnace, so the flue pipes were > covered over with Drywall.  I called the HVAC guys and they said > "FYI, you need to convert to B vent if you want to drywall that.  So I > did.. > The Furnace was changed out to a direct vent unit and the > Water heater was upgraded to have 3" B vent. in the bathroom wall. > 5) SO over the next few years, i keep getting odd ball CO alerts. mostly > in > the spring.  The Fire Department is out, the Gas Company is out, > the HVAC guys are out.  Conclusion: "You have an orphan chimney problem > and > we need to sleeve your chimney to make it smaller". > They also declare that the water heater needs 4" chimney pipe. So they > sleeve the Chimney and replace the 3" B vent with 4" A Vent. > I say "What about fire, etc, and they put in some metal around the A Vent > in > the drywall so i was happy. > 6) The CO alerts stop happening so I’m happy. > 7) I replaced the hot water heater this fall by hiring a licensed plumber. > He mentions nothing about the flues. > 8) I replace the 90+ furnace this winter, the HVAC guy mentions the flues > are an issue on the Water Heater, but it’s not > his problem.  he just replaces the Furnace. > 9)  The HVAC guys plumber comes out to look at the furnace job and says > "This water heater will not pass and therefore the > furnace won’t pass". > 10)  The HVAC PLUMBER says the WH needs a 4" B Vent and we have to rip out > the drywall to replace this and reset the furnace > to give it more space. > So can I just put more metal in the drywall?  6 years, it’s been in this > configuration without charring, coking, caramelizing, the big metal plates > we put in with the liner seem to act as good heat sinks. > This is some really bad ASCII art, showing the water heater the furnace > and > the Bathroom Wall and Toilet. The 4" flue runs > behind the furnace and into the Chimney right behind the toilet wall. >    WH      | FUR     ||    Toilet

Response:

Question:

Previously, Dan O. wrote in misc.consumers.house: >I appreciate the input I’m receiving… keep it coming!  I’m getting some >good research topics from your answers, thank you. > This is from the WasteKing disposal web site > ( http://www.anaheimmfg.com/disposers/septic_safe/ ) :

[...] There is no doubt this is a controversial area. However, I would take the WasteKing site with a grain of salt, since they want to sell disposals and they don’t have to pay to replace septic fields. I’d recommend you go to google and do a search on "garbage disposal and septic system". Look at some of the university research sites. For example, the Perdue site recommends against using a garbage disposal with a septic system.

Response:

>We will be moving in the near future to a home in Florida with a septic >tank.  My wife desperately wants a kitchen sink disposal….

I have a septic system and a disposal.  My system was designed with that in mind.  If you throw *everything* down it you will probably need to get the sludge pumped out of the tank annually.  It’s all part of the total load on the system, a factor along with how many people are in the house and how much you use the disposal, compared to the size of the system.   If she wants to use the disposal for every possible thing so that she has no food trash, you may run into problems especially if it is a small system designed for a 1 or 2 bedroom dwelling and no disposal. OTOH if its just a matter of grinding up the little amount of crud that you’d otherwise have to pick out of a drain screen by hand, it shouldn’t be a problem. Septic in general, just remember that everything you pour down the drain, goes into your yard.  For example that’s not the way to dispose of a quantity of paint or motor oil (it isn’t anyway, but ‘city’ people can individually get away with quite a bit of sewage irresponsibility) or of plastic or cardboard wrappers and packaging. -v.

Response:

Not a good idea.  Some communities even have covenants prohibiting disposals with septic systems (I lived in one a few years ago). Septic systems are not designed for use with garbage disposals.  At best, you’ll have to clean the tank more often.  At worst, the drain field can fail prematurely, and you’ll have to install a complete new system. John Weiss Seattle, WA Remove NOSPAM from reply address – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello group, I’m new here so please excuse me if this question has been > posted recently. > We will be moving in the near future to a home in Florida with a septic > tank.  My wife desperately > wants a kitchen sink disposal.  Are there any problems/advice  I should know > about when using > a combination like this?? Thank you so much!

Response:

I appreciate the input I’m receiving… keep it coming!  I’m getting some good research topics from your answers, thank you. Mike in NYC

Response:

>Septic systems are not designed for use with garbage disposals.

Mine was.  The engineer was specifically told "5 bedrooms with garbage disposal" and the plans are labelled for such (though the disposal is referred to as a "garbage grinder"). -v.

Response:

Previously, Mike S. wrote in misc.consumers.house: > I appreciate the input I’m receiving… keep it coming!  I’m getting some > good research topics from your answers, thank you. > Mike in NYC

One way to look at it is this – how much is having the disposal worth to you? If you have to replace the septic field in 10-12 years instead of 20-25, at the cost of ~$10k, is it worth it? It’s really not hard to scrape the food scraps into the trash.

Response:

>I appreciate the input I’m receiving… keep it coming!  I’m getting some >good research topics from your answers, thank you.

This is from the WasteKing disposal web site ( http://www.anaheimmfg.com/disposers/septic_safe/ ) : At our household we use a Septic Tank. Can we use a food waste disposer? The answer is definitely YES. A properly sized septic tank can easily accommodate the use of a disposer. Septic systems designed to accommodate a dishwasher or clothes washer can also accommodate a disposer. On a daily basis, and on average, a household food waste disposer uses an amount of water equal to one flush of a toilet. What about the environment? Is a disposer harmful in any way? Just the opposite, in fact. Decades of independent international research has shown that using a disposer is the safest, easiest and most environmentally responsible way to dispose of biodegradable food waste. Disposers significantly help reduce landfills and, in fact, disposer food waste has been recycled to form fertilizer in some parts of the country. However In-Sink-Erator has disposal model ( http://www.insinkerator.com/havesep.html ) specially for use with septic systems: A septic system is designed to safely treat and dispose of household waste from the kitchen and bathroom(s). If your system is sized to handle a dishwasher or clothes washer in addition to sinks and toilets, it can handle a disposer as well. Wastewater flows into your septic tank, where solids that are lighter than water (such as grease, oils and paper) float to the top and form a layer of scum. Solids that are heavier than water float to the bottom and form a layer of sludge. The middle layer of partially clarified water flows through a distribution box that evenly disperses it into your drain field. Gravel and soil then filter out pollutants and bacteria. Naturally-occurring bacteria in your septic tank help to decompose solid matter

Question:

Just another tidbit that I forgot to mention in my previous posting just a few minutes ago – I couldn’t help but smirk a little reading the subject of your original post because getting that question answered was the empowerment I felt I needed before I had the confidence to go at this project acting as the GC (http://www.bschoi.com/).  Once I had that question answered, it really felt like the process was downhill from there.  For sure, there were a lot of details that needed to be ironed out for each sub, but thats all a part of it every building project.  Its the getting the high-level picture in your head of how the overall construction process needs to occur and when thats the difficult part. There are no books available anywhere from my experience that tells someone how to GC their own pool.  I’m glad there are books available for building a house.  Thats a huge first step.  One caution is that building a house varies greatly from region to region.  If its true of swimming pools, then how much more will it be true of houses.  So you need to take each book you read with a grain of salt. I don’t mean to get "gimmicky" on you, but here’s what I did in lieu of books and to make sure that the house building process (e.g. order of subs, who, and when) proceeds in accordance with how houses are built in your neck of the woods: 1) Find one sub – any sub – that would normally perform work building a house in your imediate area.  It could be plumbing, electrical, roofing, cabinets, …  whatever.  You could look it up in the Yellow Pages or go to http://www.thebluebook.com/ to find that first one.  This is the hardest one. 2) When you locate them and call, ask them "When do you normally come in during the house building process?"  He will for sure know who he comes before and who comes after him.  Most likely you will get a lot longer list of subs that go many more before and many more after.    Then ask if they know of any good subs in those trades that come before and after.  Chances are good that if this sub has been around for awhile, they will give you the names of good subs in other trades.  You might do this with a couple of different subs in the same field to just confirm.  This also has the added benefit of finding out who is hot and who is not as far as subs go. 3) Repeat the first two steps given the information you obtained from the previous sub.  Pretty soon you will have your list, your order, and a name of a bunch of quality subs to boot. I don’t mean to dog the books that have been suggested, but sometimes, they forget to take into account geographical differences in how houses are built from state to state. Hope this helps, BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Your original question was the same question I had to ask myself and find the answer to when I went about researching building a swimming pool.  Once I got that answer and was able to locate the subs to do the job.  It was downhill from there. I didn’t build a house, but I am building a swimming pool right now in which I’m acting as the GC.  There are definitely a lot of things you need to be aware of being a GC.  I mention some of them on my website http://www.bschoi.com/ that documents my experiences as a GC building a pool.  Its definitely not on the same scale as building a house, but the challenges that you face as a GC are very very similar. Here are the main things I’ve discovered being the GC of my swimming pool I think that you SHOULDNT attempt to GC yourself if any of these are true of you: 1) You don’t have the time to to spend calling subs, collecting bids, asking a lot of questions, being home when they come, and in general chasing them around. 2) If you don’t have the mental fortitude to deal with subs not showing up when they were supposed to and in general their flakiness. Going into a pool project without that expectation will cause incredible grief, frustration, and anger, and your mental health would be better served by going with an experienced GC. 3) You don’t have the desire or motivation to learn a lot about the different subs/trades that you will be dealing with when you start your project.  For the swimming pool project I did, there were 15-20 different trade subcontractors involved. You won’t be expected to know the intimate details of what they do or how they do it, but you will need to know what one sub requires of the next in order to insure a smooth transition from one phase to the next. If you go to http://www.bschoi.com/ and go to the "The Process" page, I explain some of the things I’ve had to encounter as the GC. Also, there was a discussion on the headaches of being a GC on a discussion thread from pool forum. The specific thread can be found here:  http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html As far as the pertinent information as far as GC’ing, you can start at this point in the discussion thread and read through the following 3 or 4 responses.  I think the points brought up in these 5 or so  postings apply whether you are building a pool or a house: http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html#23 Anyways, I hope you find what you are looking for and I wish you the best in your building project. BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Your original question was the same question I had to ask myself and find the answer to when I went about researching building a swimming pool.  Once I got that answer and was able to locate the subs to do the job.  It was downhill from there. I didn’t build a house, but I am building a swimming pool right now in which I’m acting as the GC.  There are definitely a lot of things you need to be aware of being a GC.  I mention some of them on my website http://www.bschoi.com/ that documents my experiences as a GC building a pool.  Its definitely not on the same scale as building a house, but the challenges that you face as a GC are very very similar. Here are the main things I’ve discovered being the GC of my swimming pool I think that you SHOULDNT attempt to GC yourself if any of these are true of you: 1) You don’t have the time to to spend calling subs, collecting bids, asking a lot of questions, being home when they come, and in general chasing them around. 2) If you don’t have the mental fortitude to deal with subs not showing up when they were supposed to and in general their flakiness. Going into a pool project without that expectation will cause incredible grief, frustration, and anger, and your mental health would be better served by going with an experienced GC. 3) You don’t have the desire or motivation to learn a lot about the different subs/trades that you will be dealing with when you start your project.  For the swimming pool project I did, there were 15-20 different trade subcontractors involved. You won’t be expected to know the intimate details of what they do or how they do it, but you will need to know what one sub requires of the next in order to insure a smooth transition from one phase to the next. If you go to http://www.bschoi.com/ and go to the "The Process" page, I explain some of the things I’ve had to encounter as the GC. Also, there was a discussion on the headaches of being a GC on a discussion thread from pool forum. The specific thread can be found here:  http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html As far as the pertinent information as far as GC’ing, you can start at this point in the discussion thread and read through the following 3 or 4 responses.  I think the points brought up in these 5 or so  postings apply whether you are building a pool or a house: http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html#23 Anyways, I hope you find what you are looking for and I wish you the best in your building project. BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Just another tidbit that I forgot to mention in my previous posting just a few minutes ago – I couldn’t help but smirk a little reading the subject of your original post because getting that question answered was the empowerment I felt I needed before I had the confidence to go at this project acting as the GC (http://www.bschoi.com/).  Once I had that question answered, it really felt like the process was downhill from there.  For sure, there were a lot of details that needed to be ironed out for each sub, but thats all a part of it every building project.  Its the getting the high-level picture in your head of how the overall construction process needs to occur and when thats the difficult part. There are no books available anywhere from my experience that tells someone how to GC their own pool.  I’m glad there are books available for building a house.  Thats a huge first step.  One caution is that building a house varies greatly from region to region.  If its true of swimming pools, then how much more will it be true of houses.  So you need to take each book you read with a grain of salt. I don’t mean to get "gimmicky" on you, but here’s what I did in lieu of books and to make sure that the house building process (e.g. order of subs, who, and when) proceeds in accordance with how houses are built in your neck of the woods: 1) Find one sub – any sub – that would normally perform work building a house in your imediate area.  It could be plumbing, electrical, roofing, cabinets, …  whatever.  You could look it up in the Yellow Pages or go to http://www.thebluebook.com/ to find that first one.  This is the hardest one. 2) When you locate them and call, ask them "When do you normally come in during the house building process?"  He will for sure know who he comes before and who comes after him.  Most likely you will get a lot longer list of subs that go many more before and many more after.    Then ask if they know of any good subs in those trades that come before and after.  Chances are good that if this sub has been around for awhile, they will give you the names of good subs in other trades.  You might do this with a couple of different subs in the same field to just confirm.  This also has the added benefit of finding out who is hot and who is not as far as subs go. 3) Repeat the first two steps given the information you obtained from the previous sub.  Pretty soon you will have your list, your order, and a name of a bunch of quality subs to boot. I don’t mean to dog the books that have been suggested, but sometimes, they forget to take into account geographical differences in how houses are built from state to state. Hope this helps, BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Your original question was the same question I had to ask myself and find the answer to when I went about researching building a swimming pool.  Once I got that answer and was able to locate the subs to do the job.  It was downhill from there. I didn’t build a house, but I am building a swimming pool right now in which I’m acting as the GC.  There are definitely a lot of things you need to be aware of being a GC.  I mention some of them on my website http://www.bschoi.com/ that documents my experiences as a GC building a pool.  Its definitely not on the same scale as building a house, but the challenges that you face as a GC are very very similar. Here are the main things I’ve discovered being the GC of my swimming pool I think that you SHOULDNT attempt to GC yourself if any of these are true of you: 1) You don’t have the time to to spend calling subs, collecting bids, asking a lot of questions, being home when they come, and in general chasing them around. 2) If you don’t have the mental fortitude to deal with subs not showing up when they were supposed to and in general their flakiness. Going into a pool project without that expectation will cause incredible grief, frustration, and anger, and your mental health would be better served by going with an experienced GC. 3) You don’t have the desire or motivation to learn a lot about the different subs/trades that you will be dealing with when you start your project.  For the swimming pool project I did, there were 15-20 different trade subcontractors involved. You won’t be expected to know the intimate details of what they do or how they do it, but you will need to know what one sub requires of the next in order to insure a smooth transition from one phase to the next. If you go to http://www.bschoi.com/ and go to the "The Process" page, I explain some of the things I’ve had to encounter as the GC. Also, there was a discussion on the headaches of being a GC on a discussion thread from pool forum. The specific thread can be found here:  http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html As far as the pertinent information as far as GC’ing, you can start at this point in the discussion thread and read through the following 3 or 4 responses.  I think the points brought up in these 5 or so  postings apply whether you are building a pool or a house: http://www.poolforum.com/dcforum/DCForumID4/533.html#23 Anyways, I hope you find what you are looking for and I wish you the best in your building project. BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Just another tidbit that I forgot to mention in my previous posting just a few minutes ago – I couldn’t help but smirk a little reading the subject of your original post because getting that question answered was the empowerment I felt I needed before I had the confidence to go at this project acting as the GC (http://www.bschoi.com/).  Once I had that question answered, it really felt like the process was downhill from there.  For sure, there were a lot of details that needed to be ironed out for each sub, but thats all a part of it every building project.  Its the getting the high-level picture in your head of how the overall construction process needs to occur and when thats the difficult part. There are no books available anywhere from my experience that tells someone how to GC their own pool.  I’m glad there are books available for building a house.  Thats a huge first step.  One caution is that building a house varies greatly from region to region.  If its true of swimming pools, then how much more will it be true of houses.  So you need to take each book you read with a grain of salt. I don’t mean to get "gimmicky" on you, but here’s what I did in lieu of books and to make sure that the house building process (e.g. order of subs, who, and when) proceeds in accordance with how houses are built in your neck of the woods: 1) Find one sub – any sub – that would normally perform work building a house in your imediate area.  It could be plumbing, electrical, roofing, cabinets, …  whatever.  You could look it up in the Yellow Pages or go to http://www.thebluebook.com/ to find that first one.  This is the hardest one. 2) When you locate them and call, ask them "When do you normally come in during the house building process?"  He will for sure know who he comes before and who comes after him.  Most likely you will get a lot longer list of subs that go many more before and many more after.    Then ask if they know of any good subs in those trades that come before and after.  Chances are good that if this sub has been around for awhile, they will give you the names of good subs in other trades.  You might do this with a couple of different subs in the same field to just confirm.  This also has the added benefit of finding out who is hot and who is not as far as subs go. 3) Repeat the first two steps given the information you obtained from the previous sub.  Pretty soon you will have your list, your order, and a name of a bunch of quality subs to boot. I don’t mean to dog the books that have been suggested, but sometimes, they forget to take into account geographical differences in how houses are built from state to state. Hope this helps, BenC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Couldn’t help but notice you are planning to work as your own G.C.? I agree > with the responder that working as your own G.C. is a great headache. In the > end, it’s probably worth the expense to higher a professional. However, I > work for a company that makes Construction Software for individuals like > yourself. It’s called UDA Construction Office Homeowner and can be found at > http://www.uniteddesign.com/cos_homeowner.html. This is a great package that > includes over 118 construction contracts and forms, estimating, accounting > and much more. It will definately help you keep those subcontrators in line > with well written contracts and your own estimating tools. It’s pretty > affordable, too. Just wanted to pass along the web page! > Well Palme, > I was being somewhat sarcastic since I’m a bid jaded.  I try to counsel most > of my clients away from "building it yourself". One reason that G.C. exists > is to take on all the headaches and problems that come from residential > construction. I’ve done it myself a time or two and have had several clients > do it also, and the experience is pretty intense and stressful.  Most > subcontractors you will try to engage will not be very motivated to work on > your project since you represent one one job with little or no possiblity of > repeat business. They will be more loyal to their repeat customers (G.C’s) > and will often blow off your job if they get delayed on one of their repeat > clients jobs.  They also have no real incentive to cut you a break in price > for the same reason.  Those that do are usually no better than those gypsie > traveler gangs that specialize in ripping people off. > buyer beware! > Thank you for the information as I slowly forward on this.  I do have a nose > for details, that is certain; however, can you explain further about tax > returns; confrontation – geesh, why does that have to be, just need to get a > job done well and within a reasonable time frame; and phone calls at dawn? > Realistic I am and so, any insight would be helpful, hopefully not too > jaded.  After all, we all have only one life to live AND that should always > be kept in mind!!! > Tania > There are many good books out there at your local book store or Amazon.com > which walk the homeowners through being thier own general contractor.  If > you have a nose for details and like filing your own tax returns you should > have no problem with be a G.C. provided you don’t mind being confrontational > or making phone calls at the crack of dawn. > Back again… > Lets say to build a ’standard’ 2 storey house with this general outline: > its exterior having a wooden siding, roofing is wooden shingling; > its interior containing 3 bedrooms each with window and closet, 1 full > BATHroom with window, 1 WASHroom (toilet, sink), 1 kitchen with window, > 1 dining area or room with window, 1 living area or room with window, 1 > office/den room (not area) with window, 2 vehicle garage with storage > space above vehicle area built separately and alongside the house. > And no, I am not building a house now.  It just seems that there is a > lot of confusion in WHO to contract for the various tasks and WHEN to > contract them during the project.  And so, I am lost in it.  Is there a > list of contractors / subcontractors and a general calendar when things > should get done?  And not in a mad, mad rush? > Do the manufactured homes have such information – are they not houses > built on an assembly line, so to speak and therefore must have > production plans? > Maybe I am asking too many questions and should be studying more and > then ask – any good books? > Thanks in advance for any comments. > Tania

Response:

Question:

Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your problem.

Response:

> Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the > kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of > times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur > – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is > getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. > A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and > have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do > this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your > problem.

Hmm, no, I haven’t actually caught her pooping on the floor.  I would have guessed that the poops were a little too big to stick like that, but I’m certainly no expert.  If moving the boxes closer together and letting her out to play more doesn’t work, I’ll give it a shot. Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

> If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go > to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about > something. > If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve > probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is > unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time. >  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. > Bill

Yeah, that’s another reason why I was hoping someone would tell me it was okay to let the kitten out without our direct supervision.  At least then she could sleep in the same room with us. –Gilbert

Response:

If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about something. If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time.  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? > Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the > little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets > in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff. > Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box > said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in > the big box more than the little box. > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. > I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the > morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the > evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep). > For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other > cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep > these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I > must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat. > Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first > place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I > described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally > the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the > toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little > box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop > there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started > feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. > The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping > seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve > been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of > hours). > After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the > big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my > morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of > some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands > English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my > fingers crossed. > Thanks for your input. > –Gilbert > -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, > between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box? > She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the > bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go). > The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third > was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by > the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I > wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about > 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. > And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky. > If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter > boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day? > I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! > (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat. > Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the > cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be > lonely during the day. > I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or > doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably > imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like > maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out > for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the > bathroom.   > Thanks for your input, > –Gilbert

Try to get a sample to take with you to the vets. It’s entirely possible she has a little parasite. Karen

Response:

There’s no specific date where a kitten can be left alone with an adult cat in guaranteed safety.  This is a judgment call on your part.  Sorry I can’t offer any specific advice. You night try two full size litter boxes for the kitten, but I agree the arrangement you have would seem enough. As others have suggested, a trip to the vet to rule out a medical reason for going outside the litter box may be in order. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. > The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get > out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as > independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution. > So how long should I wait? > Thanks, > –Gilbert > Bill >> Hi, > [yadda yadda yadda SNIP] >> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on >> the floor. > [yadda yadda SNIP] >>(I think >> she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of >> times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her >> own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) >> How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > [yadda yadda SNIP] >> On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the >> kitten alone with the cat? > [yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. The only other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close to where they eat. -Jen If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now?

Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff.   Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in the big box more than the little box.   > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help.

I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep).   For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat.

Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of hours). After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for your input. –Gilbert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

>> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the > side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them > together.

I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind).  Keeping my fingers crossed. –Gilbert

Response:

> Are the two boxes right next to eachother?

No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box?

She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go).   The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. >  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.

If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?

I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! >  (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat.

Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be   lonely during the day. I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the bathroom.   Thanks for your input, –Gilbert [a lot of my own rambling edited] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in > the litterbox. > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

Response:

> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box.

The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution.

So how long should I wait? Thanks, –Gilbert > Bill > Hi,

[yadda yadda yadda SNIP] > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.

[yadda yadda SNIP] >(I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of > times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her > own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox?

[yadda yadda SNIP] > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

[yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

Hi, We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat.   The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related then. On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not sure what to do. Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out of it. I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the side of caution. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Are the two boxes right next to eachother?  Ids she pooping right next to the litter box?  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.  Are the boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?  (Look at the silver lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older cat. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your problem.

Response:

> Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the > kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of > times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur > – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is > getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. > A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and > have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do > this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your > problem.

Hmm, no, I haven’t actually caught her pooping on the floor.  I would have guessed that the poops were a little too big to stick like that, but I’m certainly no expert.  If moving the boxes closer together and letting her out to play more doesn’t work, I’ll give it a shot. Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

> If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go > to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about > something. > If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve > probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is > unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time. >  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. > Bill

Yeah, that’s another reason why I was hoping someone would tell me it was okay to let the kitten out without our direct supervision.  At least then she could sleep in the same room with us. –Gilbert

Response:

If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about something. If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time.  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? > Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the > little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets > in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff. > Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box > said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in > the big box more than the little box. > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. > I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the > morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the > evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep). > For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other > cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep > these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I > must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat. > Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first > place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I > described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally > the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the > toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little > box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop > there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started > feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. > The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping > seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve > been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of > hours). > After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the > big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my > morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of > some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands > English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my > fingers crossed. > Thanks for your input. > –Gilbert > -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, > between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box? > She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the > bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go). > The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third > was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by > the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I > wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about > 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. > And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky. > If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter > boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day? > I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! > (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat. > Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the > cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be > lonely during the day. > I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or > doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably > imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like > maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out > for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the > bathroom.   > Thanks for your input, > –Gilbert

Try to get a sample to take with you to the vets. It’s entirely possible she has a little parasite. Karen

Response:

There’s no specific date where a kitten can be left alone with an adult cat in guaranteed safety.  This is a judgment call on your part.  Sorry I can’t offer any specific advice. You night try two full size litter boxes for the kitten, but I agree the arrangement you have would seem enough. As others have suggested, a trip to the vet to rule out a medical reason for going outside the litter box may be in order. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. > The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get > out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as > independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution. > So how long should I wait? > Thanks, > –Gilbert > Bill >> Hi, > [yadda yadda yadda SNIP] >> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on >> the floor. > [yadda yadda SNIP] >>(I think >> she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of >> times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her >> own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) >> How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > [yadda yadda SNIP] >> On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the >> kitten alone with the cat? > [yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. The only other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close to where they eat. -Jen If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now?

Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff.   Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in the big box more than the little box.   > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help.

I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep).   For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat.

Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of hours). After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for your input. –Gilbert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

>> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the > side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them > together.

I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind).  Keeping my fingers crossed. –Gilbert

Response:

> Are the two boxes right next to eachother?

No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box?

She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go).   The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. >  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.

If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?

I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! >  (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat.

Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be   lonely during the day. I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the bathroom.   Thanks for your input, –Gilbert [a lot of my own rambling edited] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in > the litterbox. > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

Response:

> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box.

The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution.

So how long should I wait? Thanks, –Gilbert > Bill > Hi,

[yadda yadda yadda SNIP] > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.

[yadda yadda SNIP] >(I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of > times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her > own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox?

[yadda yadda SNIP] > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

[yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

Hi, We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat.   The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related then. On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not sure what to do. Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out of it. I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the side of caution. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Are the two boxes right next to eachother?  Ids she pooping right next to the litter box?  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.  Are the boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?  (Look at the silver lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older cat. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your problem.

Response:

> Hmm.. something no one has mentioned… Have you actually seen the > kitten poop on the floor? I notice that you said she is DLH. A lot of > times kittens have problems with their poop getting stuck to their fur > – especially longhair kittens. It’s quite likely that the poop is > getting stuck to her fur and then falling off elsewhere when it dries. > A good solution to this problem is to take the kitten to a groomer and > have them shave the rear area where stuff would get stuck. If you do > this and then find no more poop on the floor I think you’ve found your > problem.

Hmm, no, I haven’t actually caught her pooping on the floor.  I would have guessed that the poops were a little too big to stick like that, but I’m certainly no expert.  If moving the boxes closer together and letting her out to play more doesn’t work, I’ll give it a shot. Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

> If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go > to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about > something. > If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve > probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is > unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time. >  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. > Bill

Yeah, that’s another reason why I was hoping someone would tell me it was okay to let the kitten out without our direct supervision.  At least then she could sleep in the same room with us. –Gilbert

Response:

If there is no medical problem, one of the most common reasons cats go to the bathroom outside the litter box is they’re unhappy about something. If paying more attention to the cat reduces the problem, you’ve probably got something you can work with.  I would guess the cat is unhappy about being confined in the bathroom for long periods of time.  I’m sure that gets boring quickly. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? > Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the > little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets > in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff. > Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box > said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in > the big box more than the little box. > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. > I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the > morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the > evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep). > For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other > cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep > these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I > must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat. > Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first > place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I > described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally > the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the > toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little > box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop > there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started > feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. > The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping > seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve > been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of > hours). > After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the > big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my > morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of > some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands > English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my > fingers crossed. > Thanks for your input. > –Gilbert > -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, > between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box? > She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the > bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go). > The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third > was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by > the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I > wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about > 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. > And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky. > If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter > boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day? > I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! > (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat. > Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the > cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be > lonely during the day. > I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or > doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably > imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like > maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out > for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the > bathroom.   > Thanks for your input, > –Gilbert

Try to get a sample to take with you to the vets. It’s entirely possible she has a little parasite. Karen

Response:

There’s no specific date where a kitten can be left alone with an adult cat in guaranteed safety.  This is a judgment call on your part.  Sorry I can’t offer any specific advice. You night try two full size litter boxes for the kitten, but I agree the arrangement you have would seem enough. As others have suggested, a trip to the vet to rule out a medical reason for going outside the litter box may be in order. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. > The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get > out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as > independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution. > So how long should I wait? > Thanks, > –Gilbert > Bill >> Hi, > [yadda yadda yadda SNIP] >> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on >> the floor. > [yadda yadda SNIP] >>(I think >> she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of >> times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her >> own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) >> How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > [yadda yadda SNIP] >> On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the >> kitten alone with the cat? > [yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now? Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help. The only other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close to where they eat. -Jen If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

> The only thing you can really do is lavish praise when the kitten > poops in the box. Negative reinforcement generally doesn’t work, so > trying to punish for going outside the box would be less effective. It > could also be a litter preference issue…what kind are you using now?

Since all I had was Tidy Cats scoopable litter, that’s what I put in the little box while I went shopping for the big box.  I tried the pine pellets in the big box on the first day, but she completely ignored the stuff.   Then I bought another scoopable brand, I can’t recall which, but the box said it was flushable.  Once I put it in the big box, she started going in the big box more than the little box.   > Have you noticed if the pattern of going outside the box happens only > after having pooped inside the box already? Or is it totally random? > (ie, does it ever happen when the box is totally fresh?) If that does > turn out to be a problem, maybe a littermaid box would help.

I’m already checking her boxes at least three or four times a day (in the morning, when I get up; around 1 pm, when I check back at my home; in the evening when I get home from work; and usually right before I go to sleep).   For the last several days, I’ve been letting her out to play with my other cat for a few short sessions (I read somewhere to start slow, and to keep these introductory play times short), and I check again then, so it seems I must check 6-8 times a day. > The only > other thing I’m wondering is, where is the food bowl relative to the > litter box? Some cats have issues with going to the bathroom so close > to where they eat.

Well, she IS in a bathroom, so there isn’t that much room in the first place.  I put the water bowl in the corner opposite the sink (elsewhere I described that the litter boxes are next to the sink counter).  Originally the dry food bowl was next to the water, but when we found a poop under the toilet tank, that bowl got moved next to the toilet (the little-used little box was on the other side of the toilet), and there hasn’t been a poop there since then.  When we found a poop right by the door, I started feeding her her wet food by the door, but she pooped again there later. The only pattern I can even guess at, is that most of the floor pooping seems to occur after a long time of no attention from us (e.g., after we’ve been asleep all night, or out of the house for more than a couple of hours). After reading Cathy Friedmann’s message, I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind), and I tried to praise her (I don’t think she understands English yet!  Don’t they teach kids anything these days?!?).  Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for your input. –Gilbert – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> -Jen > If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled?

Response:

>> Are the two boxes right next to eachother? > No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the > side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them > together.

I moved the little box next to the big box last night.  No poop last night, but this morning, right after my morning visit, she pooped in the big box (I hope that’s not a message of some kind).  Keeping my fingers crossed. –Gilbert

Response:

> Are the two boxes right next to eachother?

No, the big one is in front of the sink, and the little one’s on the side, between the toilet and the sink.  I guess I’ll move them together. > Ids she pooping right next > to the litter box?

She did a couple of times.  The first one was under a chair I put in the bathroom (I feel funny about sitting on the toilet if I don’t have to go).   The second was under the toilet tank (next to the little box).  The third was by the door.  The fourth was by the big litter box.  The fifth was by the door.  I think she’s averaging a couple of little poops per day (I wasn’t keeping real close track), so that’s five floor poops out of about 18 total poops, and 2 out of 5 next to the litter box. >  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, > next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.

If we go that route, pretty soon the entire floor will be covered in litter boxes! > Are the > boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?

I scoop her boxes three times/day.  The big cat only gets it once/day! >  (Look at the silver > lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s > a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) > Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older > cat.

Okay.  I was hoping that letting her hang out with the cat would enable the cat to somehow give her some guidance, and the two of them wouldn’t be   lonely during the day. I was thinking maybe she just poops on the floor because she’s lonely or doesn’t like being cooped up in the bathroom all day.  I’m probably imagining things, but I haven’t caught her in the act yet, so it seems like maybe she’s pooping on the floor during the time we’re asleep or we’re out for more than an hour (work and school), and she’s isolated in the bathroom.   Thanks for your input, –Gilbert [a lot of my own rambling edited] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in > the litterbox. > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

Response:

> The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you > should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One > reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box > and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box.

The cat has two, the kitten has one big, one tiny.  The kitten can’t get out of the bathroom, and the cat can’t get in, so I was considering them as independent systems. > Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their > lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. > Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out > of it. > I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your > description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only > need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the > side of caution.

So how long should I wait? Thanks, –Gilbert > Bill > Hi,

[yadda yadda yadda SNIP] > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on > the floor.

[yadda yadda SNIP] >(I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of > times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her > own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox?

[yadda yadda SNIP] > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the > kitten alone with the cat?

[yadda yadda about big cat chasing little kitten SNIP]

Response:

Hi, We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat.   The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related then. On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not sure what to do. Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). Thanks, –Gilbert

Response:

The general Rule of Thumb is # litter boxes = # cats + 1, so you should have three (full size) litter boxes if you have two cats.  One reason is that a cat will sometimes suddenly prefer pooping in one box and peeing in the other, refusing to do both in the same box. Most cats do the kneading motion with their front legs all their lives. It’s quite common and no cause for concern. Sucking on her own fur is a bit unusual, but she’ll probably grow out of it. I wouldn’t leave a kitten alone with an adult cat.  From your description of their interaction, it’s probably just play.  You only need to be concerned if blood is drawn.  Still, I would err on the side of caution. Bill

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Are the two boxes right next to eachother?  Ids she pooping right next to the litter box?  And, you could consider adding even a 3rd box, next to the others, just in case she’s just extra-picky.  Are the boxes kept really clean – scooped 2 -3 times/day?  (Look at the silver lining: be thankful she’s peeing in the boxes all of the time – that’s a lot more difficult to clean up than poop!) Personally, I’d wait a while before leaving her along w/ the older cat. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > We adopted a spayed DLH kitten from the shelter on Oct 5, to (eventually) > be a buddy for our first cat (an almost-2-year-old neutered Siamese mix, > that we adopted in May).  Her birthday was given as July 15, so she’s about > three months old.  At the time, the tech at the shelter advised us to > separate the two for a week, and suggested that we keep the kitten in a > bathroom.  There was a comment that the kitten had occasional litterbox > problems, but maybe could benefit from the guidance of an older cat. > The "litterbox problem" has manifested as an occasional pooping on the > floor.  She also poops in the litterbox, and pees exclusively in the > litterbox.  (She actually has two litterboxes: one is a small cardboard box > I set up for her to use while I went to the store to get a (bigger) plastic > litterbox, but she doesn’t use the little box very much anymore.)  (I think > she might have been separated too early from her mother; a couple of times > I’ve cradled her like a baby, and she started to suck on her own fur and > made "kneading" motions with her front paws.) > How do we train her to poop only in the litterbox? > Incidentally, we have a vet appointment for a general check-up on Oct. 17, > so the vet ought to be able to tell us if there’s something health-related > then. > On a slightly different topic, when would it be safe to leave the kitten > alone with the cat?  We’ve let the kitten out a few times for supervised > interaction with the cat.  After a while, the cat ends up chasing the > kitten around the room, sometimes pinning her to the floor, and the kitten > starts hissing and pawing mightily.  There’s never been any blood, and I > don’t think he has bitten or scratched her (a couple of times, he pinned > her, then started licking her), but the kitten sounds quite upset, and then > I separate them with an occasional squirt of water (more often, I just > shake the spray bottle, and the cat gets the hint).  I give the cat lots of > treats while the kitten’s around, but it’s hard to distract him once he’s > in chase mode.  The kitten hasn’t reacted too badly yet; even after a pin, > she still likes to jump around and explore the room.  In fact, sometimes > she instigates things by batting at the older cat.  I’m just a bit > concerned because the cat is so much bigger than the kitten, and I’m not > sure what to do. > Sorry to be so long-winded.  Any advice is appreciated (although I’ll be > reading insulting and condescending comments with a frown on my face). > Thanks, > –Gilbert

Response:

Question:

Hi all, My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. -H

Response:

Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove the stains. Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

The faucets have a chrome finish. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came across,,….Dean //

> The faucets have a chrome finish.

> Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi all, > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > Any help would be appreciated. > > -H

Response:

If the faucets no longer have any type of factory warranty, I would try to use a chrome polish for starters.  You generally apply this like car wax, then buff it off.  The ammonia in the windex possibly lightly etched the surface of the chrome and/or left some "water" spots behind. The polish will be very mildly abrasive on the surface and hopefully remove traces of the gray. Also, just a quick sidenote, I see a trend emerging here…windex, CLR, contact cement cleaner…none of these are really designed to clean metal.  Most often, cleaners work best on their intended purpose… Windex = glass CLR = calcium, soap scum, lime deposits, rust, etc contact cement cleaner = contact cement Good Luck Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at > my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came > across,,….Dean > // > The faucets have a chrome finish. > > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > > the stains. > > Corey > > > Hi all, > > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > > Any help would be appreciated. > > > -H

Response:

Hi all, My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. -H

Response:

Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove the stains. Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

The faucets have a chrome finish. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

If this is a top of the line Moen it has a lifetime guarantee, call them or send an Email to the web site. I had a problem with my Delta faucets and they sent me new ones, no questions asked.

Response:

Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came across,,….Dean //

> The faucets have a chrome finish.

> Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi all, > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > Any help would be appreciated. > > -H

Response:

If the faucets no longer have any type of factory warranty, I would try to use a chrome polish for starters.  You generally apply this like car wax, then buff it off.  The ammonia in the windex possibly lightly etched the surface of the chrome and/or left some "water" spots behind. The polish will be very mildly abrasive on the surface and hopefully remove traces of the gray. Also, just a quick sidenote, I see a trend emerging here…windex, CLR, contact cement cleaner…none of these are really designed to clean metal.  Most often, cleaners work best on their intended purpose… Windex = glass CLR = calcium, soap scum, lime deposits, rust, etc contact cement cleaner = contact cement Good Luck Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at > my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came > across,,….Dean > // > The faucets have a chrome finish. > > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > > the stains. > > Corey > > > Hi all, > > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > > Any help would be appreciated. > > > -H

Response:

Hi all, My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. -H

Response:

Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove the stains. Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

The faucets have a chrome finish. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey > Hi all, > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > Any help would be appreciated. > -H

Response:

If this is a top of the line Moen it has a lifetime guarantee, call them or send an Email to the web site. I had a problem with my Delta faucets and they sent me new ones, no questions asked.

Response:

Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came across,,….Dean //

> The faucets have a chrome finish.

> Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > the stains. > Corey

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Hi all, > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > Any help would be appreciated. > > -H

Response:

If the faucets no longer have any type of factory warranty, I would try to use a chrome polish for starters.  You generally apply this like car wax, then buff it off.  The ammonia in the windex possibly lightly etched the surface of the chrome and/or left some "water" spots behind. The polish will be very mildly abrasive on the surface and hopefully remove traces of the gray. Also, just a quick sidenote, I see a trend emerging here…windex, CLR, contact cement cleaner…none of these are really designed to clean metal.  Most often, cleaners work best on their intended purpose… Windex = glass CLR = calcium, soap scum, lime deposits, rust, etc contact cement cleaner = contact cement Good Luck Corey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Use contact cement cleaner,. This will clean anything . I use it everyday at > my job.. It will clean varnish, paint , everything that i have came > across,,….Dean > // > The faucets have a chrome finish. > > Would help to know what metal the faucets are made of…brass, nickel, > > stainless ?  That will determine the proper course of action to remove > > the stains. > > Corey > > > Hi all, > > > My sister was cleaning our bathroom and she used Windex on the Moen > > > faucets on our sink. Now there’s greyish stains all over them. Is > > > there a way to clean this off? I tried using CLR but to no avail. > > > Any help would be appreciated. > > > -H

Response:

Question:

Warning: Sexually explicit content. Advert: Sexually explicit content. Take your pick of the above. > This is a transcript of an actual cyber sex session. As all of you are

well aware, online computers are often used to engage in cybersex. Detailed and erotic fantasies are typed into the computer to be instantly transmitted over the Internet. Sometimes these harmless fantasies become fairly raunchy. This is not the case with the following transcript of an actual on-line cybersex session.  Either this guy is clueless or has the greatest sense of humour. > Wellhung: Hello, Sweetheart. What do you look like? > Sweetheart: I am wearing an expensive red silk blouse, a black leather

mini skirt and high heeled boots. I am tanned and very buffed. I workout veryday. My measurements are 36-24-36. What do you look like? > Wellhung: I’m 6′3" and about 250 lb. I wear glasses and have on a pair of

blue sweatpants I just bought at Walmart. I’m also wearing an old T-shirt, it’s got some barbecue sauce stains on it and it smells kind off funny. > Sweetheart: I want you. Would you like to screw me? > Wellhung: OK > Sweetheart: We’re in my bedroom. There’s soft music playing on the stereo

and candles on my nightstand. I look up into your eyes and I’m smiling. My hand works its way down to your crotch and I begin to feel your huge swelling bulge. > Wellhung: I’m gulping. I’m beginning to sweat. > Sweetheart: I’m pulling up your shirt and kissing your chest. > Wellhung: Now, I’m unbuttoning your blouse. My hands are trembling. > Sweetheart: I’m moaning softly. > Wellhung: I’m taking hold of your blouse and I’m sliding it softly off. > Sweetheart: I’m throwing my head back in pleasure. The cool silk slides

off of my warm body. I’m rubbing your bulge faster now, rubbing and pulling. > Wellhung: My hand suddenly jerks spastically and tears a hole in your blouse. I’m sorry. > Sweetheart: That’s, OK. It wasn’t really too expensive. > Wellhung: I’ll pay for it. > Sweetheart: Don’t worry about it! I’m wearing a lacy black bra, my soft

breasts are rising and falling as I breathe harder and harder. > Wellhung: I’m fumbling with the clasp of your bra, I think it’s stuck. Do you have scissors? > Sweetheart: I take your hand and kiss it softly, I reach behind my back

and undo the clasp. My bra slides off. The cool air caresses my breasts, my nipples are erect for you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wellhung: How did you do that? I’m picking up the bra and inspecting the clasp. > Sweetheart: I’m arching my back. Oh baby, I just want to feel your tongue all over me. > Wellhung: I’m dropping the bra. Now I’m licking your, you know, breasts. They’re neat! > Sweetheart: I’m running my fingers through your hair. Now I’m nibbling your ear. > Wellhung: I suddenly sneeze. Your breasts are covered with spit and phlegm. > Sweetheart: WHAT? > Wellhung: I’m so sorry. Really. > Sweetheart: I’m wiping your phlegm off of my breasts with the remains of my blouse. > Wellhung: I’m taking your sopping wet blouse from you and throwing it in

the corner of the room. > Sweetheart: OK. I’m pulling your sweatpants down and rubbing your hard tool. > Wellhung: I’m screaming like a woman! Your hands are cold! Yeee! > Sweetheart: I’m pulling up my miniskirt. Take off my panties. > Wellhung: I’m pulling off your panties. My tongue is going all over, in

and out and nibbling on you. ummm, wait a second. > Sweetheart: What’s the matter? > Wellhung: I’ve got a pubic hair caught in my throat. I’m choking. > Sweetheart: Are you OK? > Wellhung: I’m having a coughing fit. I’m turning all red. > Sweetheart: Is there anything I can do to help? > Wellhung: I’m running to the kitchen. Choking wildly. Looking for a cup.

Where do you keep your cups?? > Sweetheart: In the cabinet to the right of the sink! > Wellhung: I’m drinking a cup of water. There that’s better. > Sweetheart: Come back to me, lover. > Wellhung: I’m washing the cup now. > Sweetheart: I’m aching for you lover. > Wellhung: Now I’m drying the cup. I’m putting it back in the cabinet. And

now I’m walking back to the bedroom. Wait it’s dark, I’m lost. Where is the bedroom? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sweetheart: Last door on the left at the end of the hall. > Wellhung: I found it. > Sweetheart: I’m tugging off your pants. I want you so badly. > Wellhung: Me too. > Sweetheart: I kiss you passionately. Our naked bodies pressed against each other. > Wellhung: Your face is pushing my glasses into my face.  It hurts. > Sweetheart: Why don’t you take your glasses off? > Wellhung: OK. But I can’t see very well. I’m placing my glasses on the nightstand. > Sweetheart: I’m bending over the bed. Give it to me baby! > Wellhung: I have to pee. I’m fumbling my way blindly to the bathroom > Sweetheart: Hurry back lover. > Wellhung: I find the bathroom and it’s dark. I’m feeling around for the

toilet and lift the lid. > Sweetheart: I’m waiting eagerly for your return. > Wellhung: I’m done going. I’m feeling around for the flush handle. Uh-oh! > Sweetheart: What’s the matter now? > Wellhung: I just realised I peed in your hamper. Sorry again. I’m walking

back to the bed now. Blindly feeling my way. > Sweetheart: Mmmm, yes. Come on. > Wellhung: Now I’m going to put my, you know, thing in your umm, woman’s thing. > Sweetheart: Yes! Do it, Baby! Do it! > Wellhung: I’m touching your smooth butt. It feels so nice. Ma’am, I’m

having a little problem here. > Sweetheart: I’m moving my ass back and forth. I can’t wait another second.

Slide it in! Screw me! > Wellhung: I’m flaccid. > Sweetheart: WHAT? > Wellhung: I’m limp. I can’t sustain an erection. > Sweetheart: I’m standing up and turning around; an incredulous look on my face. > Wellhung: I’m shrugging with a sad look on my face, my weiner all floppy.

I’m looking for my glasses to see what the problem is. > Sweetheart: NO! Never mind. I’m getting dressed, I’m putting on my

underwear and my wet nasty blouse. > Wellhung: No wait. I can’t find the night table. I’m reaching across the

dresser, knocking off cans of hairspray, your picture frames and your candles. > Sweetheart: I’m buttoning my blouse. I’m putting on my shoes. > Wellhung: Now I’ve found my glasses. My God! One of your candles fell on

the curtain! The curtain is on fire. I’m pointing at it with a shocked look on my face. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sweetheart: Go to hell! I’m logging off, LOSER! > Wellhung: Now the carpet is on fire! Nooooooo

Response:

haha thats some funny shit i really liked the ending I guess it got too hot for her

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Warning: Sexually explicit content. > Advert: Sexually explicit content. > Take your pick of the above. > This is a transcript of an actual cyber sex session. As all of you are > well aware, online computers are often used to engage in cybersex. Detailed > and erotic fantasies are typed into the computer to be instantly transmitted > over the Internet. Sometimes these harmless fantasies become fairly raunchy. > This is not the case with the following transcript of an actual on-line > cybersex session.  Either this guy is clueless or has the greatest sense of > humour. > Wellhung: Hello, Sweetheart. What do you look like? > Sweetheart: I am wearing an expensive red silk blouse, a black leather > mini skirt and high heeled boots. I am tanned and very buffed. I workout > veryday. My measurements are 36-24-36. What do you look like? > Wellhung: I’m 6′3" and about 250 lb. I wear glasses and have on a pair of > blue sweatpants I just bought at Walmart. I’m also wearing an old T-shirt, > it’s got some barbecue sauce stains on it and it smells kind off funny. > Sweetheart: I want you. Would you like to screw me? > Wellhung: OK > Sweetheart: We’re in my bedroom. There’s soft music playing on the stereo > and candles on my nightstand. I look up into your eyes and I’m smiling. My > hand works its way down to your crotch and I begin to feel your huge > swelling bulge. > Wellhung: I’m gulping. I’m beginning to sweat. > Sweetheart: I’m pulling up your shirt and kissing your chest. > Wellhung: Now, I’m unbuttoning your blouse. My hands are trembling. > Sweetheart: I’m moaning softly. > Wellhung: I’m taking hold of your blouse and I’m sliding it softly off. > Sweetheart: I’m throwing my head back in pleasure. The cool silk slides > off of my warm body. I’m rubbing your bulge faster now, rubbing and pulling. > Wellhung: My hand suddenly jerks spastically and tears a hole in your > blouse. I’m sorry. > Sweetheart: That’s, OK. It wasn’t really too expensive. > Wellhung: I’ll pay for it. > Sweetheart: Don’t worry about it! I’m wearing a lacy black bra, my soft > breasts are rising and falling as I breathe harder and harder. > Wellhung: I’m fumbling with the clasp of your bra, I think it’s stuck. Do > you have scissors? > Sweetheart: I take your hand and kiss it softly, I reach behind my back > and undo the clasp. My bra slides off. The cool air caresses my breasts, my > nipples are erect for you. > Wellhung: How did you do that? I’m picking up the bra and inspecting the > clasp. > Sweetheart: I’m arching my back. Oh baby, I just want to feel your tongue > all over me. > Wellhung: I’m dropping the bra. Now I’m licking your, you know, breasts. > They’re neat! > Sweetheart: I’m running my fingers through your hair. Now I’m nibbling > your ear. > Wellhung: I suddenly sneeze. Your breasts are covered with spit and > phlegm. > Sweetheart: WHAT? > Wellhung: I’m so sorry. Really. > Sweetheart: I’m wiping your phlegm off of my breasts with the remains of > my blouse. > Wellhung: I’m taking your sopping wet blouse from you and throwing it in > the corner of the room. > Sweetheart: OK. I’m pulling your sweatpants down and rubbing your hard > tool. > Wellhung: I’m screaming like a woman! Your hands are cold! Yeee! > Sweetheart: I’m pulling up my miniskirt. Take off my panties. > Wellhung: I’m pulling off your panties. My tongue is going all over, in > and out and nibbling on you. ummm, wait a second. > Sweetheart: What’s the matter? > Wellhung: I’ve got a pubic hair caught in my throat. I’m choking. > Sweetheart: Are you OK? > Wellhung: I’m having a coughing fit. I’m turning all red. > Sweetheart: Is there anything I can do to help? > Wellhung: I’m running to the kitchen. Choking wildly. Looking for a cup. > Where do you keep your cups?? > Sweetheart: In the cabinet to the right of the sink! > Wellhung: I’m drinking a cup of water. There that’s better. > Sweetheart: Come back to me, lover. > Wellhung: I’m washing the cup now. > Sweetheart: I’m aching for you lover. > Wellhung: Now I’m drying the cup. I’m putting it back in the cabinet. And > now I’m walking back to the bedroom. Wait it’s dark, I’m lost. Where is the > bedroom? > Sweetheart: Last door on the left at the end of the hall. > Wellhung: I found it. > Sweetheart: I’m tugging off your pants. I want you so badly. > Wellhung: Me too. > Sweetheart: I kiss you passionately. Our naked bodies pressed against each > other. > Wellhung: Your face is pushing my glasses into my face.  It hurts. > Sweetheart: Why don’t you take your glasses off? > Wellhung: OK. But I can’t see very well. I’m placing my glasses on the > nightstand. > Sweetheart: I’m bending over the bed. Give it to me baby! > Wellhung: I have to pee. I’m fumbling my way blindly to the bathroom > Sweetheart: Hurry back lover. > Wellhung: I find the bathroom and it’s dark. I’m feeling around for the > toilet and lift the lid. > Sweetheart: I’m waiting eagerly for your return. > Wellhung: I’m done going. I’m feeling around for the flush handle. Uh-oh! > Sweetheart: What’s the matter now? > Wellhung: I just realised I peed in your hamper. Sorry again. I’m walking > back to the bed now. Blindly feeling my way. > Sweetheart: Mmmm, yes. Come on. > Wellhung: Now I’m going to put my, you know, thing in your umm, woman’s > thing. > Sweetheart: Yes! Do it, Baby! Do it! > Wellhung: I’m touching your smooth butt. It feels so nice. Ma’am, I’m > having a little problem here. > Sweetheart: I’m moving my ass back and forth. I can’t wait another second. > Slide it in! Screw me! > Wellhung: I’m flaccid. > Sweetheart: WHAT? > Wellhung: I’m limp. I can’t sustain an erection. > Sweetheart: I’m standing up and turning around; an incredulous look on my > face. > Wellhung: I’m shrugging with a sad look on my face, my weiner all floppy. > I’m looking for my glasses to see what the problem is. > Sweetheart: NO! Never mind. I’m getting dressed, I’m putting on my > underwear and my wet nasty blouse. > Wellhung: No wait. I can’t find the night table. I’m reaching across the > dresser, knocking off cans of hairspray, your picture frames and your > candles. > Sweetheart: I’m buttoning my blouse. I’m putting on my shoes. > Wellhung: Now I’ve found my glasses. My God! One of your candles fell on > the curtain! The curtain is on fire. I’m pointing at it with a shocked look > on my face. > Sweetheart: Go to hell! I’m logging off, LOSER! > Wellhung: Now the carpet is on fire! Nooooooo

Response:

Question:

I had a similar problem when the wind blew from a certain direction.  Reset the toliet.  Tore the wall out to check the airvent connection from the waste pipes to the roof.   After I put on Tyvek (an air sealing material) when the house was resided, it stopped.   I think, it was the roof vent pipe gas literally descending down my walls and leaking back into the house. The other possible cause is the vent pipe on the roof is plugged….leaves, birds, etc…and the exhaust gas is backing up.

Response:

"Gururajan Ramachandran" wrote > Hello, > Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had > a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and > put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out > a second time and said it was not plumbing related… > It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the > base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is > just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of > chemical fumes.

I was surprised at how similar to leaky toilet it smelled when my kitchen sink jtrap leaked.  Try putting a bucket under the nearest sink drain, if it is enclosed in a wooden cabinet.  It may be dripping through pinhole leaks or it may only leak when you dump a lot of water down it at once, so just a glance isn’t good enough testing; get that bucket, or some clean paper, under it for a week.

Response:

[Please reply in newsgroup as I do not read the email at this email address] Hello, Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out a second time and said it was not plumbing related… It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of chemical fumes. Anybody encountered anything like this and know what I can do to correct the problem? Or, atleast whom to call to correct the problem? Thanks, Guru

Response:

We had a similar situation once. It turned out to be the sockets on the light fixture. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> [Please reply in newsgroup as I do not read the email at this > email address] > Hello, > Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had > a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and > put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out > a second time and said it was not plumbing related… > It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the > base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is > just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of > chemical fumes. > Anybody encountered anything like this and know what I can do to > correct the problem? Or, atleast whom to call to correct the > problem? > Thanks, > Guru

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [Please reply in newsgroup as I do not read the email at this > email address] > Hello, > Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had > a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and > put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out > a second time and said it was not plumbing related… > It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the > base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is > just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of > chemical fumes. > Anybody encountered anything like this and know what I can do to > correct the problem? Or, atleast whom to call to correct the > problem? > Thanks, > Guru

Possible it’s still plumbing related.   If, for instance, there is a fracture in the closet bend (pipe from toilet) or in the soil stack behind the toilet, sewer gases will escape. One test is to pour just a few drops of Oil of Wintergreen down the stack vent.   The familiar odor will be apparent in the house at any places where there is a leak. Another test uses a gas leak detector to "sniff" out sewer gas leaks; there are usually enough hydrocarbons in the sewer gas to activate the detector. Jim

Response:

It could be a broken pipe, hole or loose joint in the sewer or vent pipe and the fumes are finding their way between the studs/joists into the bathroom, especially if your vent pipe is clogged by a birds nest. Not sure how to troubleshoot that one. Go up on the roof and peer down the pipe with a flashlight? Does your sewer have a trap just before it goes out of the house? Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> [Please reply in newsgroup as I do not read the email at this > email address] > Hello, > Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had > a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and > put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out > a second time and said it was not plumbing related… > It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the > base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is > just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of > chemical fumes. > Anybody encountered anything like this and know what I can do to > correct the problem? Or, atleast whom to call to correct the > problem? > Thanks, > Guru > Possible it’s still plumbing related.   If, for instance, there is > a fracture in the closet bend (pipe from toilet) or in the soil stack > behind the toilet, sewer gases will escape. > One test is to pour just a few drops of Oil of Wintergreen down the > stack vent.   The familiar odor will be apparent in the house at > any places where there is a leak. > Another test uses a gas leak detector to "sniff" out sewer gas leaks; > there are usually enough hydrocarbons in the sewer gas to activate > the detector. > Jim

Response:

Hello, Some kind of fumes are coming from my bathroom. They are terrible and maybe toxic (I am concerned they might be…). I called in plumbers who reseated the toilet and put in a wax seal. It did not stop. Plumbers came back and left a note saying it was not plumbing related… The fumes seem to be coming from behind or the backside of the base of the toilet. Does anybody know what I can do to correct this problem or whom to call to correct this problem? I am greatly concerned for my health with this stuff floating around the air in my home. Thanks, Guru

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > It could be a broken pipe, hole or loose joint in the sewer or vent pipe and > the fumes are finding their way between the studs/joists into the bathroom, > especially if your vent pipe is clogged by a birds nest. Not sure how to > troubleshoot that one. Go up on the roof and peer down the pipe with a > flashlight? Does your sewer have a trap just before it goes out of the > house? > Rick > > [Please reply in newsgroup as I do not read the email at this > > email address] > > Hello, > > Some really unpleasant fumes are coming from my bathroom. I had > > a plumber come out and take a look. They reseated the toilet and > > put in a new wax ring. The problem still persisted. They came out > > a second time and said it was not plumbing related… > > It seems to be coming from either behind or the backside of the > > base of the toilet. It is really terrible and unpleasant. It is > > just not that the odor is bad but they seem to be some kind of > > chemical fumes. > > Anybody encountered anything like this and know what I can do to > > correct the problem? Or, atleast whom to call to correct the > > problem? > > Thanks, > > Guru > Possible it’s still plumbing related.   If, for instance, there is > a fracture in the closet bend (pipe from toilet) or in the soil stack > behind the toilet, sewer gases will escape. > One test is to pour just a few drops of Oil of Wintergreen down the > stack vent.   The familiar odor will be apparent in the house at > any places where there is a leak. > Another test uses a gas leak detector to "sniff" out sewer gas leaks; > there are usually enough hydrocarbons in the sewer gas to activate > the detector. > Jim

Emitting chemical from the pipe it is injurious to health u should take steps to check out what is the reason.Chemical has both impact positive and chemical impact. visit http://www.chemicalhouse.com one of the india’s biggest portal on the net.

Response:

Question:

Yes, but it didn’t mean much to her.  She doesn’t dislike cats, she just doesn’t get it.  I think she figured this sort of thing was why she didn’t have pets. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Oh well, this is an old story, but… > Many years ago, little Kore was our cat (she is now long gone > after 15 years with us).  But this was when she was young, and so > special. > So the in-laws are over, and we are all sitting around the > kitchen table for a casual coffee/dessert.  The conversation is > waxing strong, when something makes me look up…and there is > Kore in the kitchen sink…in the unmistakable posture of a cat > taking a whiz.  The in-laws are not cat people, but the > mother-in-law follows my (bugging) eyes and sees the Kore.  Even > she senses something odd is going on. "Oh, what is wrong with the > kitty…why is she sitting in the sink…like that…"  Luckily, > the sink was empty. > Another time, while we were all gathered around the dining room > table partaking of the festive Thanksgiving feast, again I feel > compelled to look up from my plate, and there is Kore, in a > well-lit corner of the room, in full view of the entire company, > in a characteristic posture, looking at us all…adds new meaning > to the expression, "Showing off for company."  The rug was never > the same. > At that time, she was habitually extremely well-behaved in litter > matters (these were actually the only incidents), and had no > infection, etc.  Just a great sense of humor. >lol >Hey, question: Was your MIL there each of those times?  ;)

Response:

Neighbor Benny was coming over to see how to care for my three extremely well-behaved little black, furry princesses while I was on vacation.  Just before he came they spotted a strange cat walking past their deck and two of them went berserk, growling and hissing and spitting at each other and generally trying to act as awful as they could.  Thankfully they did settle down somewhat before he came in. Barb

Response:

Gosh.. why do my cats like to embarrass me when I have guest(s) ??? It

Question:

I have a washerless, Price – Pfister facet in the bathroom sink. It is about 10 years old now and the kind of facet that you pull out to turn the water on, push in to turn it off, and rotate the large clear plastic know to control the water temperature. The faucet handle is becoming increasingly difficult to push in or pull out, but not to rotate. I tried inserting a lubricant into the center part after removing the large clear plastic know, but this did not help.  It looks like I can remove the center part of this faucet, after turning the water off. Does anyone have any experience with this type of faucet. TIA

Response:

>Does anyone have any >experience with this type of faucet.

Most likely it’s a worn cartridge. If you can get the model number of the faucet, you can log onto www.pricepfister.com and either email them or call them. They will give you a free replacement for the cartridge.

Response: