Question:

> My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs > screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that > is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use > compact flourescents in the same application and really save money?

Yes. > Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?

Ones that look good to you.  Check into "globe" style CFs; they’re going to be the closest in appearance to the globe incandescent bulbs you’ve got in there now. — Adrian Brandt

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: My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs : screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that : is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use : compact flourescents in the same application and really save money? : Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?   Are you sure about 80 watts?  I never heard of 80 watt ones, especially in the USA.   But here goes:  Will 4-inch or maybe a little larger diameter globes easily fit?  I believe there is the Sylvania 20 watt Dulux-EL in a globe version, which is slightly dimmer than a 75 watt standard 750 hour lightbulb and noticeably a little brighter than a 60 watt one.

Response:

My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use compact flourescents in the same application and really save money? Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?     David

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Question:

>This thread’s been useful concerning bulb colors and such. >My concern is moisture damaging the ballast/electronics >unless they’re somehow sealed.

I’m running a GE 26w CF in the recessed (but not enclosed) fixture over my shower.  It was either the CF or a 40w incandescent or a 75w PAR. Due to dark color scheme the 40w was totally insufficient and I had the CF handy…  It has been in there over a year now. Lots of moisture around but no problems.  I don’t imagine there will be a problem with it on (heat drives away moisture) but even with about 50% of showers not using the light there doesn’t seem to be a problem. Same bathroom also has three cheap (Feit?) CFs in three other recessed fixtures.  One of those died young.  The replacement and the other two have now been in place about nine months.  I attribute the death to poor quality control from the factory.  I never considered moisture… sdb — Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)! Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be sylvan and host is cyberhighway.net.

Response:

>My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs >screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal

This thread’s been useful concerning bulb colors and such. My concern is moisture damaging the ballast/electronics unless they’re somehow sealed. — Jeffrey Jonas The original Dr. JCL and Mr .hide

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs >screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that >is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use >compact flourescents in the same application and really save money? >Any recommendation on which flourescents to use? >No real recommendation, most should work OK (although they’ll stick out further >than the original bulbs). >What makes you think you’ll "really save money"?   Given the duty cycle of most >bathroom lights, I’d think that you’ll be lucky to break even over the life of >the bulbs and ballasts.

I replaced my 6 – 60 watt lights with 6 compact flourescents that burn 78 watts total.  That’s a savings of about 280 watts every time I turn the lights on.  I calculated that the lights had to last me 2364 hours (at 9 cents per kWh) for me to break even.  If I get anywhere near the supposed 10,000 hours the compact flourescents are to last, I’ll save quite a bit of money.  Not to mention heat.  360 watts is hot!

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>I replaced my 6 – 60 watt lights with 6 compact flourescents that burn 78 >watts total.  That’s a savings of about 280 watts every time I turn the

That really doesn’t make much sense.  You don’t pay for watts and you don’t really use watts, you use watt-hours so you can’t really save watts either.  To figure out how many watt-hours you save, you have to know how long they’ll be on. >lights on.  I calculated that the lights had to last me 2364 hours (at 9

Assuming that is run time, how many years will it take for that usage to accumulate?  How often will they turn on and off during that time? >cents per kWh) for me to break even.  If I get anywhere near the supposed >10,000 hours the compact flourescents are to last, I’ll save quite a bit of

Only two significant problems stand out with your reasoning.  In addition to "hours" the bulbs also wear out due to on/off cycles.  Get enough of those and your bulb won’t last anywhere near the 10k hours. The other problem is more serious.  Time value of money.  Given the significant up front cost of CF bulbs, the payback time may also be significant.  Will the energy savings over that time period be sufficient to recoup the opportunity cost of the money you spent? The more hours per day a light is used, the more likely it is to be cost effective replacing it with CF.  That, I’m sure, is why Andy questions the duty cycle of batchroom lights in relation to CF. I run six CFs and a few normal fluorescents at home.  Two of the CFs are in fixtures that run at least from 9pm to 11pm every day, and typically run another two to three hours more than that every day.  At least once a week those bulbs run 10-12 hours straight.  I’m running 50w of CF vs 200w of incandescent so the savings can be significant. The other CFs are used merely to provide more light than the higher wattage incandescents they replaced.  A 25w cf instead of a 40w or 60w incandescent makes a big difference.  Oh, and those are in a bathroom, but not at the mirror.  I left 40w*12 incandescent there. sdb — Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)! Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be sylvan and host is cyberhighway.net.

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My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use compact flourescents in the same application and really save money? Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?     David

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> My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs > screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that > is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use > compact flourescents in the same application and really save money?

Yes, should be fine. The only time position could be a factor with CF is when you mount them base up (screwed in at the top and pointing down). This is because the heat from the lamps rise and heat up the build in ballast in the base. This can shorten lamp life as well as effect output. But for your application, it should work fine. > Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?

With the screw on types, you do not have a whole lot of choice since most hardware stores all sell what are basically warm/cool white type lamps. While fine for a reading light, you may not like the look for a bathroom, especially if someone wants to apply makeup under that light. Instead you might consider looking for a mail order place that sells lamps with a Kelvin temp closer to what is called "daylight". Typically these values are in the 5000-6500K range. For reference, typical cool white lamps are around 3500-4100K range while warm white lamps are lower (2800-3500K range). One place that makes screw in CF lights in spectrums other than warm/cool whites is Mitor at http://www.mitor.com/index.html I have never used their products, so can not relay any first hand experiences, but for a bathroom, you might do better to locate their products for the higher Kelvin temp lamps over the low Kelvin temp lamps typically sold at Hopme Depot, Lowe’s, WalMart, etc. etc. — http://www.geocities.com/ptimlin/ Before you buy.

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>My bathroom vanity has four 80 watt globe incandescents. The bulbs >screw into sockets at the top of the vanity and are horizontal, that >is, when screwed in, they point away from the wall. Can I use >compact flourescents in the same application and really save money? >Any recommendation on which flourescents to use?

No real recommendation, most should work OK (although they’ll stick out further than the original bulbs). What makes you think you’ll "really save money"?   Given the duty cycle of most bathroom lights, I’d think that you’ll be lucky to break even over the life of the bulbs and ballasts.

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: Instead you might consider looking for a mail order place that sells : lamps with a Kelvin temp closer to what is called "daylight". Typically : these values are in the 5000-6500K range. For reference, typical cool : white lamps are around 3500-4100K range while warm white lamps are : lower (2800-3500K range). : : One place that makes screw in CF lights in spectrums other than : warm/cool whites is Mitor at http://www.mitor.com/index.html : I have never used their products, so can not relay any first hand : experiences, but for a bathroom, you might do better to locate their : products for the higher Kelvin temp lamps over the low Kelvin temp : lamps typically sold at Hopme Depot, Lowe’s, WalMart, etc. etc.   Incandescent lamps are around 2800 K so I should think that lower color temp. compact fluorescents would have an effect most like that of incandescents.   Also – the usual compact fluorescents are not like the old type Warm White.  Old fashioned Cool White and worse still Warm White have a spectrum with a surplus of yellow and orange-yellow and a shortage of green and red.  Reds look dull and skin looks green-yellowish pale.   The usual compact fluorescents have the "triphosphor" blend of rare earth phosphors and have a much smaller and somewhat opposite distortion of colors.  Reds can look slightly orangish and slightly off-brightness in either direction, usually slightly brighter brighter than normal.  Skin looks slightly bright-pinkish compared to how it looks under incandescent light.   Come to think of it, skin and most reds probably look slightly closer to "normal" under 3500 Kelvin compact fluorescents than under the usual 2700 Kelvin ones.  Only a few models of compact fluorescents come in that color and probably have to be ordered. And the color rendition is not much different from that of 2700 Kelvin so you should be OK with the popular "warm white color" models.   But if you want a cooler, daylight-like color, there is a 5000 Kelvin version of the Philips 17 watt that I have seen in Sears.  It’s probably also available at Home Depot, which is the place to go for variety in Philips products.   All of the usual compact fluorescent lamps have a color rendering index around 80-82 on a scale where 100 is an ideal achieved by incandescent light and daylight.   Do not get: FUL-type lamps, which are U-bent slightly-miniaturized standard fluorescent lamps that use the old type warm white and cool white phosphors.  These are usually 12 watts but may come in 15 watts and other wattages.

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Question:

Does this include the fixtures (toilet, tub, sink, vanity)? If so, then it sounds too cheap! You may want to double check the quality of the fixtures used. If on the other hand those costs are extra to the quote then it sounds reasonable to me. >         8.  All the plumbing for a standard full bathroom plus an extra run > to install a water filtration system.

–       Jeff

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It’s difficult to answer questions pertaining to information and heresay not particular to my area. He comes with a good reputation. What more do you want? The price seems justified. Are you going to trust some anonymous newsgroup opinion over what’s standing in front of you? think man. Skepticism overdone makes for crappy business relations. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >    I’m having 3 bedrooms, a full bathroom, and a hallway finished in my >bi-level (split level) house by a contractor and received a quote of $7,000. >Does this price feel like a fair price?  I am not very familiar with the >building business. >    I live in the Dakota’s.  Heat/AC is already installed in every room. >The rooms are already framed.  We will be doing the flooring ourselves since >I know how to do that.  Beyond that it will be a fairly standard basement. >The contractor will: >        1.  Standard electrical with some extra outlets/power runs. >        2.  We will have baseboard heat in all 4 rooms. >        3.  2 bedrooms are approximately 10′x12′ the other 14′x10′. >        4.  We are going to have everything >sheetrocked/taped/textured/primed. >        5.  There is a $250 lighting budget. >        6.  The contractor will do all the trim as well as that is his >specialty. >        7.  Some extra insulation. >        8.  All the plumbing for a standard full bathroom plus an extra run >to install a water filtration system. >    The contractor I’m dealing with has a reputation as doing high quality >work from a great many sources.  I’ve seen his work and it’s better than >anything I’ve seen. >    I would appreciate any opinions on the price quote. >Thank you, >Jon

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The only way is to get several quotes and compare them.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, >     I’m having 3 bedrooms, a full bathroom, and a hallway finished in my > bi-level (split level) house by a contractor and received a quote of $7,000. > Does this price feel like a fair price?  I am not very familiar with the > building business.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >    I’m having 3 bedrooms, a full bathroom, and a hallway finished in my >bi-level (split level) house by a contractor and received a quote of $7,000. >Does this price feel like a fair price?  I am not very familiar with the >building business. >    I live in the Dakota’s.  Heat/AC is already installed in every room. >The rooms are already framed.  We will be doing the flooring ourselves since >I know how to do that.  Beyond that it will be a fairly standard basement. >The contractor will: >        1.  Standard electrical with some extra outlets/power runs. >        2.  We will have baseboard heat in all 4 rooms. >        3.  2 bedrooms are approximately 10′x12′ the other 14′x10′. >        4.  We are going to have everything >sheetrocked/taped/textured/primed. >        5.  There is a $250 lighting budget. >        6.  The contractor will do all the trim as well as that is his >specialty. >        7.  Some extra insulation. >        8.  All the plumbing for a standard full bathroom plus an extra run >to install a water filtration system. >    The contractor I’m dealing with has a reputation as doing high quality >work from a great many sources.  I’ve seen his work and it’s better than >anything I’ve seen. >    I would appreciate any opinions on the price quote. >Thank you, >Jon

Sounds like the price  is $4000 too low.

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Hi,     I’m having 3 bedrooms, a full bathroom, and a hallway finished in my bi-level (split level) house by a contractor and received a quote of $7,000. Does this price feel like a fair price?  I am not very familiar with the building business.     I live in the Dakota’s.  Heat/AC is already installed in every room. The rooms are already framed.  We will be doing the flooring ourselves since I know how to do that.  Beyond that it will be a fairly standard basement. The contractor will:         1.  Standard electrical with some extra outlets/power runs.         2.  We will have baseboard heat in all 4 rooms.         3.  2 bedrooms are approximately 10′x12′ the other 14′x10′.         4.  We are going to have everything sheetrocked/taped/textured/primed.         5.  There is a $250 lighting budget.         6.  The contractor will do all the trim as well as that is his specialty.         7.  Some extra insulation.         8.  All the plumbing for a standard full bathroom plus an extra run to install a water filtration system.     The contractor I’m dealing with has a reputation as doing high quality work from a great many sources.  I’ve seen his work and it’s better than anything I’ve seen.     I would appreciate any opinions on the price quote. Thank you, Jon

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Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > First, I sympathize with "proud, exhausted, and broke". > My 70-year-old house had the bath re-done some time in the 1950’s, and > they installed a shower at that time. The tub runs the width outer wall > of the bath (5×10 less space taken out for the closet from the next > room) with a window in the middle. Like yours, the window is a vinyl > replacement window set in a wood frame and sill. > To protect the window, they put up a second shower curtain rod, along > the back wall. I put up a contrasting shower curtain, and push it to > the opposite end of the tub from the outer shower curtain when it’s not > in use. When I shower, I pull both curtains. > I kinda like it. If nothing else, it’s an inexpensive stop-gap to > protect the window until you can do something more permanent. > This is the least of my worries in this bath anyway – I don’t like the > wall tile color (pea green) but can’t swing replacing it yet. I want to > replace the sink (white/green swirl) and vanity (white), the medicine > cabinet/mirror (metal) and the vinyl flooring (ugly green/yellow > pattern). The toilet’s redeeming value is that it’s a high-capacity > unit – I never have to flush twice (-:

Your bathroom sounds similar to ours.  At least our tiles are white though. But with tanish/dirty yellow walls and a yellow and brown speckled vinyl/asbestos? floor.  I bought some white with lt.green floor tiles and am sponging the walls two different lt green shades.  What a difference to get rid of the bathroom waste colors.  Honestly!  What were they thinking?  As if you don’t know what occurs in that room, here’s the reminder…. The double shower curtain sounds like a grand idea.  I think I’ll pick one up on the way home.  Did you just put up a normal liner type curtain?   We are also supposed to be replcing the vanity and medicine cabinet.  I think I’m going to toss up a towel tower storage thingy.  There is no linen closet. Thanks for the ideas peoples.  I’m sure you’ll hear more from me. Tracy

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>Your bathroom sounds similar to ours.  At least our tiles are white >though. But with tanish/dirty yellow walls and a yellow and brown >speckled vinyl/asbestos? floor.  I bought some white with lt.green floor

At least your tiles are white… oh, and I forgot to mention the area above the tiles (which go about 5-6′ up) is wallpapered. That’s also going. By the time I’m done, all that’ll be left is the tub, toilet, and wall tile (the tough-to-replace things, at least for me). >The double shower curtain sounds like a grand idea.  I think I’ll pick >one up on the way home.  Did you just put up a normal liner type >curtain?  

You’ll probably have to get the rod for it at your favorite handyman store, not sure if department stores will have them or not. Since the bathroom is various greens (at the moment) I used a mint green liner curtain for the back, and for the front I used a rose- colored one. Originally I had the green in front, but decided I liked it in the back with the contrast in front better. >We are also supposed to be replcing the vanity and medicine cabinet.  I >think I’m going to toss up a towel tower storage thingy.  There is no >linen closet.

Mine’s at the end of the hallway – one bedroom closet (the one with the hatch into the crawlspace upstairs) buts up against it. I’m not sure what I’ll do about towel storage, I’ve got a lot of space above the toilet but that’s about it in this bath. >Thanks for the ideas peoples.  I’m sure you’ll hear more from me.

Glad I (and others) can help. The people in this newsgroup and alt.home.repairs are generally pretty good folk, and pretty clueful. Doug — The shadow of a dog never bit anyone — Kenneth Copeland

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>Glad I (and others) can help. The people in this newsgroup and >alt.home.repairs are generally pretty good folk, and pretty clueful.

On a related question….. We have a 30 yo house, which we rent.  The bathroom window is located inside the shower.  We were able to open it last summer, but it is pretty solidly stuck now.  Any great ideas on opening it?  The frame is wood — what might help lubricate that?  I’ve tried it at different times over the last several months (i.e., at different humidity levels), but so far no luck. It isn’t a big deal, except that the storm window is partially up.  It would be nice to have that all the way down.  And (provided it _ever_ cools down!), I like having the house opened up some days. (Our landlady is nice, but does not have a handyman.  I hate having her pay mega-bucks for something we can possibly do ourselves.) Thanks, AMB

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Take a block of wood (2X4) and put it against the window frame.  GENTLY  tap it with a hammer going up and down the frame.  This may help loosen it.  If you are able to raise it a bit, try the same trick on the parting strip (the thin piece of wood between the upper and lower sash).  After you are able to raise and lower the window, take a bar of soap and run it over the tracks/channels that the window runs in.  This will lubricate to make it easier to open. If you have a couple of hours to kill, take a flat bar and GENTLY remove the piece of molding in front of the window.  This is what holds the window in place.  After you remove those, take out the window and soap everything up. (While you have the window out, scrape off the accumulated paint.) Now replace the molding strips and your window should work like a charm. Just spent the weekend taking the ENTIRE window  (double hung wood — 90+ years old) apart, scraping down to bare wood, repainting, putting in new cords and putting it all back together.  Now a beadboard wall in front of the tub, new toilet, new corner pedestal sink, new medicine cabinet, new pergo floor over the existing P.O.C. floor and new lights and we have a new bathroom for under 700.00!!!! — Steve & Tawnya’s Home Page   http://musial.server101.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Glad I (and others) can help. The people in this newsgroup and >alt.home.repairs are generally pretty good folk, and pretty clueful. >On a related question….. >We have a 30 yo house, which we rent.  The bathroom window is located >inside the shower.  We were able to open it last summer, but it is >pretty solidly stuck now.  Any great ideas on opening it?  The frame >is wood — what might help lubricate that?  I’ve tried it at different >times over the last several months (i.e., at different humidity >levels), but so far no luck. >It isn’t a big deal, except that the storm window is partially up.  It >would be nice to have that all the way down.  And (provided it _ever_ >cools down!), I like having the house opened up some days. >(Our landlady is nice, but does not have a handyman.  I hate having >her pay mega-bucks for something we can possibly do ourselves.) >Thanks, >AMB

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>Take a block of wood (2X4) and put it against the window frame.  GENTLY  tap >it with a hammer going up and down the frame.  This may help loosen it.  If >you are able to raise it a bit, try the same trick on the parting strip (the >thin piece of wood between the upper and lower sash).  After you are able to >raise and lower the window, take a bar of soap and run it over the >tracks/channels that the window runs in.  This will lubricate to make it >easier to open.

Try beeswax for lubricating the window tracks. It works great on wood, also good for the bottom of sticky wood drawers. It doesn’t have coloring or perfumes like soap, which might stain the wood…and it last longer. You can buy small cakes of beeswax at fabric or craft supply stores near the thread counter. BW Smtih Catalogue of House Plans, Barn and Garage plans for sale: http://www.cadsmith.com

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> We are the proud, exhusted, broke new owners of a hundred year old > house.  The  window in the bathroom is located inside the shower area, > above the tub.  We installed a ceiling fan, vented to the outside, so > the window being able to open and close is not necessary.  How should we > treat this window?  It is wood framed, vinal replacement interior > covered with several gallons of shiny white paint (like the rest of the > bathroom).  It doesn’t look damaged, so how should we keep it that way?

We’re buying a 90-year-old victorian, and at some point a set of owners simply put up those plastic/water protecting partitions around the tub. They’re totally sealed at the tub, and they go all the way up. Unfortunately, it means you can’t even tell there’s a window from the bathroom, and there’s an odd six-inch space at the foot of the tub and its partition to the wall.  From the outside, the window looks darkened with no window treatment, so that’s not ideal either.  It’s an interesting solution, though.

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We are the proud, exhusted, broke new owners of a hundred year old house.  The  window in the bathroom is located inside the shower area, above the tub.  We installed a ceiling fan, vented to the outside, so the window being able to open and close is not necessary.  How should we treat this window?  It is wood framed, vinal replacement interior covered with several gallons of shiny white paint (like the rest of the bathroom).  It doesn’t look damaged, so how should we keep it that way? Thanks! Tracy

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> We are the proud, exhusted, broke new owners of a hundred year old > house.

Contratulations!  Been there, done that, gutted the place :-) > The window in the bathroom is located inside the shower area, above the > tub.  We installed a ceiling fan, vented to the outside, so the window > being able to open and close is not necessary.  How should we treat this > window?

With an opaque shade? :-) Actually, I would get a shower curtain and hang it in front.  The inside of the window isn’t designed to withstand running water like you’ll get in a shower and if you don’t protect it, it’ll rot out in no time. — New York University School of Medicine

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>We are the proud, exhusted, broke new owners of a hundred year old >house.  The  window in the bathroom is located inside the shower area, >above the tub.  We installed a ceiling fan, vented to the outside, so >the window being able to open and close is not necessary.  How should we >treat this window?  It is wood framed, vinal replacement interior >covered with several gallons of shiny white paint (like the rest of the >bathroom).  It doesn’t look damaged, so how should we keep it that way?

Tracy, First, I sympathize with "proud, exhausted, and broke". My 70-year-old house had the bath re-done some time in the 1950’s, and they installed a shower at that time. The tub runs the width outer wall of the bath (5×10 less space taken out for the closet from the next room) with a window in the middle. Like yours, the window is a vinyl replacement window set in a wood frame and sill. To protect the window, they put up a second shower curtain rod, along the back wall. I put up a contrasting shower curtain, and push it to the opposite end of the tub from the outer shower curtain when it’s not in use. When I shower, I pull both curtains. I kinda like it. If nothing else, it’s an inexpensive stop-gap to protect the window until you can do something more permanent. This is the least of my worries in this bath anyway – I don’t like the wall tile color (pea green) but can’t swing replacing it yet. I want to replace the sink (white/green swirl) and vanity (white), the medicine cabinet/mirror (metal) and the vinyl flooring (ugly green/yellow pattern). The toilet’s redeeming value is that it’s a high-capacity unit – I never have to flush twice (-: Doug — The shadow of a dog never bit anyone — Kenneth Copeland

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Question:

>And don’t forget an overhead heater for cold chilly mornings.

I dimly remember those. <vbg> Best, Larry

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The AARP has some info on home design on their site at www.aarp.org under the independent living heading.  Liz G

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I definitely second the whirlpool tub.  We moved into our current house in November and the whirlpool tub has been a great joy.  I never really enjoyed baths until I got RA. >Hi there-How much space do you have in your bathroom?  If I had the space, I >would have a shower with a handheld shower head (which I do and love) but also >either a whirlpool or a hot tub.  Make sure that you have lots of grab bars all >over.   Even if you cant grip with your hands, just being able to hook them

—–  8< —– snip —–

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And don’t forget an overhead heater for cold chilly mornings.

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the best thing i did when building a first floor bathroom before my tkr (well, they didn’t quite finish but that’s another story) was the custom tiled stall shower with built in seat, grab bars everywhere and handheld shower massage.  it’s larger than normal to make use of all available space and a dream to get in and out of even when i was on crutches. the heatlamp’s nice, too. diane

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>I find it easier to get into and out of my whirlpool tub than out of my >regular >small tub

But it’s not easier to clean. If you get a large tub, consider having a second, pull-out spray faucet installed. It’ll make it much easier to rinse out the tub.

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> Anne- > The pull-out shevles are good.  I have a Jacuzzi which I cannot get in/out > even with help–knees and hands don’t allow it.  Why are there no tubs > that look like refrigerators and you could fill it and sit on a shelf?

That is basically what a habitat does. > My shower has a seat and a neat bendable shower head.  I LOVE my high toilet > but it was almost $500 installed (I got ripped off?).

Maybe not.  Installation is expensive and there is a wide variety is prices and features.  The price I quoted was just for the toilet.  But, installation is also relatively easy, so when I buy one, I’ll do it myself. Walt Hanks — To get to know me, see my website at: http://www.itsnet.com/~wdhanks/WaltHP.html

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I had my bathroom remodeled a couple of years ago, and here is my list of things to consider: 1. A higher than normal sink. You can buy sink vanities that are kitchen cabinet height, although you may need to place a special order to get one. No more bending over to brush my teeth and wash my face! Of course, if you are really short, or if you think you may need a wheelchair at some point, forget this idea. 2. A larger than normal sink bowl and a pull out spray faucet. The contractor talked me out of this one and I’m still aggravated about that. I’d love to be able to wash my hair at the sink more easily, and I think the pull out spray faucet would have worked fine. (His argument was that I’d be likely to spray water all over the place. Who cares? Water is easier to mop up.) If you like this idea but your hands make it difficult to work the spray, consider a faucet with a high curved spout – I’ve got one of those in another bathroom and it’s easy to stick my head under it – but, alas, that faucet is at a low sink.) And yes, there really are bathroom spray faucets, but again, you probably won’t find one at your local Home Depot. 3. Lever style faucets for both the sink and tub. 4. A lever style door handle. 5. A "handicapped" toilet. These are higher than regular ones (great on the knees) and look better next to a higher sink vanity than the regular low toilets. 6. A shower stall with a seat. I didn’t do this because I was running out of room (and money

Question:

Why do you oppose them calling it a .5 bath?  The more your house is worth, the more your taxes will be.  I’m sure it won’t make a BIG difference, but personally I’d rather have them call it a .5 bath, rather than a full bath. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Our town is going through a re-val process during which they >are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, >they state that my house has 1.5 baths. >The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with >a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished >basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; >the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. >Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in >state parks! >I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list >this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that >any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. >While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, >I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to >list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more >because of it. >Your thoughts?

– Return address munged to prevent SPAM… Automation and DataComm wiring, FAQ’s, supplies, tools, etc: http://www.FutureStandard.com

Response:

>O >While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, >I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to >list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more >because of it. >Your thoughts?

Our municipality considers a basement toilet, no sink or shower, nor enclosure, save for a waist-high curtain, a "1/2 bath" for assesment purposes. Its all up to the person who does the walk-thru. Bill

Response:

I always thought a half-bath was a toilet and sink, a three-quarter bath was toilet, sink and shower. Full bath has toilet, sink and bathtub (maybe with shower in tub). If yours has toilet and shower but no sink, maybe half-bath would do. Charles. >Our town is going through a re-val process during which they >are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, >they state that my house has 1.5 baths.

….

Response:

>>The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with >a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished >basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; >the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. >Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in >state parks!

snip Dave, If you have plumbing fixtures connected to the plumbing piping system, it is considered functional no matter what the cosmetic condition. If the shower and toilet are removed and all the piping is capped off, then it would be considered a "future" bath and a half. You can’t have it both ways. snip >I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list >this as a .5 bath,

snip yet the assessment paperwork says that >any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath.

snip >        I’ve worked in real Estate,… a half bath is a toilet and a >sink most of the time (I guess they are calling the shower the sink ><Grin>….)  But here is the kicker,… If the shower or toilet is >unuseable because of grime or anything else nasty you might be able to >fight this one.  Yes,.. they may look at it and say "oh,.. it’s a >shower not a sink" and up the value so please becarefull.

snip This pure conjecture approach is of no value when dealing with city hall.There is no code distinction between a "grimy" plumbing fixture and one in pristeen condition. snip >        Another idea might be to have a real estate agent do a market >analysis on your home.  They will do this for free most of the time if >they think you are toying with the idea of selling and you want to >know what it’s worth.  

snip This idea of fraudulently employing a real estate professional by misrepresenting your motives smells worse than any grimy plumbing fixtures. Using someone’s time and energy in this manner indicates a complete lack of ethics and consideration. This is, no doubt, the reason the previous poster *used* to work in real estate – the people who carve out a living in that industry over the long haul realize the foolhardiness of the previous poster’s strategies. snip >This will give you an idea of what the listing >will say.  And you can pay to have an appraiser come in and do it as >well.  They will be more accurate but will also cost you a bit of >cash.  Good Luck!

A straightforward consultation with a code official is all it takes and can probably be accomplished in a few minutes at little or no cost. Good luck and best wishes to all for the coming new year, Bob Amberger, Pleasanton, CA

Response:

Your gonna want it listed as a full bath when you sell your house(more money,easier to sell). How much do you think your gonna save by doing this?? The real estate tax where I live is $1.36 per hundred assesed, and another half bath at the most is gonna add $2000 dollars. That comes to a savings of $27.20 a year if you were to claim it as a half bath. This is just an example, but if it were me I would just pay the $30.00 a year. Just a thought. Johnster

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Our town is going through a re-val process during which they >are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, >they state that my house has 1.5 baths. >The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with >a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished >basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; >the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. >Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in >state parks! >I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list >this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that >any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. >While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, >I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to >list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more >because of it.

It means whatever they say it means.  You might be able to get the assessment changed, but likely they work from a set of rules that says any toilet outside of a full bath is a "half bath".  You’re lucky they don’t count is as a full bath, since the shower is there. Dan Hicks Hey!!  My advice is free — take it for what it’s worth! http://www.millcomm.com/~danhicks —== http://www.newsfeeds.com – Largest Usenet Server In The World! ==—

Response:

Around here, a toilet, sink, and shower is called a full bath. I guess there are people who ‘op’ for a large walk-in shower instead of a 5′ tub in one of their otherwise full baths during building or remodeling.  Therefore, these are still considered a full bath. Does code allow a bathroom to NOT have a sink?   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I always thought a half-bath was a toilet and sink, a three-quarter bath was > toilet, sink and shower. Full bath has toilet, sink and bathtub (maybe with > shower in tub). If yours has toilet and shower but no sink, maybe half-bath > would do. > Charles.

Response:

Here in WI, the rules are as follows, both for assessment and listing: A full bath is three plumbing fixtures consisting of a toilet, a sink, and a place to bathe. A half bath has 2 out of three. A one-third bath has a toilet only, but this is really rare. A toilet or shower stall in a basement is not counted. Just my $.02, JK – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Our town is going through a re-val process during which they > are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, > they state that my house has 1.5 baths. > The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with > a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished > basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; > the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. > Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in > state parks! > I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list > this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that > any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. > While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, > I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to > list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more > because of it. > Your thoughts?

Response:

>> I always thought a half-bath was a toilet and sink, a three-quarter bath was > toilet, sink and shower. Full bath has toilet, sink and bathtub (maybe with > shower in tub). If yours has toilet and shower but no sink, maybe half-bath > would do.

Hmmm.. so what is my master bath called?  It has a separate tub and shower… Bath and a quarter?  :) Rick Marinelli http://www.erols.com/rickandlisa

Response:

Interesting variety of opinions so here’s one more. Per recent electrical code, which your locality has probably adopted, a shower/toilet combination is not even considered a bathroom. Figure that! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Our town is going through a re-val process during which they >are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, >they state that my house has 1.5 baths. >The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with >a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished >basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; >the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. >Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in >state parks! >I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list >this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that >any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. >While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, >I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to >list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more >because of it. >Your thoughts?

Response:

I thought the code only concerned itself with the location of water; not the fixture associated with the faucet.  In other words, you need a GFI if your shower, tub, or sink is within 4′ (6′?) of an outlet.  No? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Easy to figure that one out – since you are referring to an electrical > code, the concern would be installations of GFI in areas where there > would be a potential shock hazard – because the "shower/toilet" > configuration doesn’t have the potential that a toilet/vanity sink > would have, a shower toilet, electrically speaking is not a bath.

Response:

The definitions are in Section 100. The 1996 version says a bathroom, by definition, contains a sink. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I thought the code only concerned itself with the location >of water; not the fixture associated with the faucet.  In other >words, you need a GFI if your shower, tub, or sink is >within 4′ (6′?) of an outlet.  No? > Easy to figure that one out – since you are referring to an electrical > code, the concern would be installations of GFI in areas where there > would be a potential shock hazard – because the "shower/toilet" > configuration doesn’t have the potential that a toilet/vanity sink > would have, a shower toilet, electrically speaking is not a bath.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Our town is going through a re-val process during which they >are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, >they state that my house has 1.5 baths. >The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with >a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished >basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; >the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. >Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in >state parks! >I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list >this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that >any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. >While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, >I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to >list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more >because of it. >Your thoughts?

        I’ve worked in real Estate,… a half bath is a toilet and a sink most of the time (I guess they are calling the shower the sink <Grin>….)  But here is the kicker,… If the shower or toilet is unuseable because of grime or anything else nasty you might be able to fight this one.  Yes,.. they may look at it and say "oh,.. it’s a shower not a sink" and up the value so please becarefull.           Another idea might be to have a real estate agent do a market analysis on your home.  They will do this for free most of the time if they think you are toying with the idea of selling and you want to know what it’s worth.  This will give you an idea of what the listing will say.  And you can pay to have an appraiser come in and do it as well.  They will be more accurate but will also cost you a bit of cash.  Good Luck!

Response:

Our town is going through a re-val process during which they are re-assessing every house. On the paperwork I just recieved, they state that my house has 1.5 baths. The .5 bath in question consists of an enclosed room with a toilet and beat-up shower stall located in an unfinished basement. The toilet section of the "bathroom" is drywalled; the shower section is cinderblock and exposed studs/joists. Both fixtures work, but I have seen better shower stalls in state parks! I have been told by real estate agents that I couldn’t list this as a .5 bath, yet the assessment paperwork says that any "2 fixture" bathroom is considered a .5 bath. While I plan to at least question this issue with the town, I’m just looking for some opinions about not being able to list the room as a .5 bath, yet I might get taxed more because of it. Your thoughts?

Response:

Question:

I’m looking to install tile in a bathroom which is presently carpeted. This is a "second" bathroom, in the basement, so the floor is ultimately a concrete slab. I saw the recent posting regarding lifting up the toilet (thanks!), but what about cabinets? It seems like it would be a lot less work to tile around the existing vanity than to remove it, tile, and replace it. Is there some sort of industry guideline or "accepted practice?" If you’ve done this yourself, what are the pros and cons? Many thanks in advance. — Chris                                jchil latd gsy sdotc om To email me, look for the AT and DOT and remove some spaces. What would happen if I pulled the plug on the Reality Engine?

Response:

> what about cabinets? It seems like it would be a lot less work to tile > around the existing vanity than to remove it, tile, and replace it. Is > there some sort of industry guideline or "accepted practice?" If you’ve > done this yourself, what are the pros and cons?

Generally, if the cabinet is already in place, most don’t floor under it.  However, if the cabinet is movable (or you’re going to replace it anyhow), it’s easier and it makes for a better job to tile under it.  It takes hardly anytime to lay full tiles in the field, all the time is used up in doing the cuts and specials around the edges. The other advantage of doing the whole floor is that some day you might want to replace that ugly vanity and if you’ve tiled the whole floor you don’t have to worry if the new one is slightly smaller.  You could even put in a pedestal sink.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking to install tile in a bathroom which is presently carpeted. > This is a "second" bathroom, in the basement, so the floor is ultimately a > concrete slab. > I saw the recent posting regarding lifting up the toilet (thanks!), but > what about cabinets? It seems like it would be a lot less work to tile > around the existing vanity than to remove it, tile, and replace it. Is > there some sort of industry guideline or "accepted practice?" If you’ve > done this yourself, what are the pros and cons? > Many thanks in advance. > — > Chris                                jchil latd gsy sdotc om > To email me, look for the AT and DOT and remove some spaces. > What would happen if I pulled the plug on the Reality Engine?

Could someone please re-post the article on lifting the toilet? I am considering doing ceramic tile over vinyl and am wondering how it will work with the toilet setting higher above the sub-floor. Thanks! — S. David Patton                         Alcatel Network Systems, Inc.

Response:

> Could someone please re-post the article on lifting the toilet? I > am considering doing ceramic tile over vinyl and am wondering how > it will work with the toilet setting higher above the sub-floor. > Thanks!

OK, here’s the procedure. Shut off the water feed (a small valve below and to the left of the tank usually).  Flush the toilet.  This should drain most of the water out of the tank.  If you’re concerned about a mess, sponge up the remaining water in the tank.  Disconnect the feed from the bottom of the tank.  If this is a 2-piece toilet, there will be typically two (maybe three) bolts holding the tank to the bottom (ignoring bizarre wall mounted antiques). Remove these, lift the tank off and put it somewhere safe. Now bail and soak up as much water that remains in the bowl as possible.  Under two decorative caps on the sides of the toilet and remove the nuts holding the thing to the floor. Lift off the bowl (usually easiest to grab inside the rim and pull).  Stuff a wadded up towel in the hole to block fumes from the sewer while working. Now lay the new floor.  Tile upto the flange but becareful to leave enough clearance so that the T-shaped bolts that are sticking up that had the nuts on them holding the toilet down can still be removed. Now, when you are ready to put the toilet back you have two choices.  One way is to use more wax.  You can either use a second wax ring that doesn’t have the plastic horn on it or they sell ones that are just "fatter" in the wax department.  Or if the difference is larger, you can by "flange extensions" which are just rings that look like the top of the flange.  You glue them down with plumbing sealent (I put 2 on mine because in addition to the tile I had new underlayment).  If you do this, you may need to buy longer T bolts.  Frankly I’d replace them anyhow, they’re usually pretty cruddy by this time anyhow. Clean off the remnants of the wax from the flange and the bottom of the toilet.  Remove the rag you stuffed in the drain.  Place a new wax ring on the bottom of the toilet (the plastic part if there goes pointing away from the toilet).  Make snakes out of plumbers putty by rolling them in your hands and place them along the edges of the toilet where it will touch the floor.  Grab the thing and place it in place (helpful to have a second person to guide the bolts into the holes).  Gently neel on the bowl to seat it in place. Put the rest of the stuff back on and turn on the water and give it a whirl. -Ron

Response:

Thanks again, Ron! — S. David Patton                         Alcatel Network Systems, Inc.

Response:

Question:

>It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian >family that knows God exists. >Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in >our society. >It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists.

Screw you, you godless punk. It’s my hope that Jesus shows up at your door and nukes you with lasers from his eyes.

Response:

>Thanks!  I hadn’t had a good laugh yet today! Oh, and by the way, did I ever >mention in any of my posts that my grandmother is a Christian?  No I

didn’t. If it walks like a duck, quacks like a duck, has feathers and webbed feet…. >I only said I am.  What if I told you she was an atheist?  I guess that >would make my story an example of why Atheism is the greatest evil in our >society. Cruel and sinister and designed for stupid sadists!!  (just for the >record, my grandma is a Christian, I was just making a point.)

See, I was right.  And I never said all Christians would act that way either. But chances were very great that, with you being a Christian (and "knowing" that there’s a God), and with her acting that way, she was a Christian too.

Response:

>>It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian >family that knows God exists. >Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in >our society. >It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists. >Screw you, you godless punk. It’s my hope that Jesus shows up at your door and >nukes you with lasers from his eyes.

Yeah— nice, loving, nonviolent Jesus.

Response:

Thanks!  I hadn’t had a good laugh yet today! Oh, and by the way, did I ever mention in any of my posts that my grandmother is a Christian?  No I didn’t. I only said I am.  What if I told you she was an atheist?  I guess that would make my story an example of why Atheism is the greatest evil in our society. Cruel and sinister and designed for stupid sadists!!  (just for the record, my grandma is a Christian, I was just making a point.) Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to >babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he >had >said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He >sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma >permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. >Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom) >It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian >family that knows God exists. >Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in >our society. >It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists.

Response:

>My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to >babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he had >said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He >sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma >permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. >Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom)

It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian family that knows God exists. Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in our society. It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to >babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he > had >said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He >sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma >permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. >Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom) > It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian > family that knows God exists. > Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in > our society. > It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists.

Whoa!  You have alot of animosity towards a whole lot of people!  Where did it all come from? Suzy (who can feel the waves of anger coming off their post)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to >babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he > had >said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He >sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma >permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. >Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom) > It figures that this kind of parental behavior would come from a Christian > family that knows God exists. > Thank you for another example of why Christianity is the greatest evil in > our society. > It’s a cruel and sinister religion designed for stupid sadists.

I take offense at that generalization.  I was raised in a Christian family and I am raising my children in one and there is NO WAY I would use this method. When my kids say a curse word, I simply ask them where they heard it and let them know that it isn’t an acceptable word to use.  I tell them that if I hear them use it again, now that they know, I will simply take them over and put vinegar in their mouth.  I never react with shock when I hear it so they don’t use it again for shock value. It is dealt in a matter of fact manner and that is the end of it. Since they have heard what the consequence is from this, I have NEVER heard them repeat any word they have used after they found out it wasn’t acceptable.  My girls are 8, 7 & 5 and I have only heard a couple of words that I have had to tell them this. The BIGGEST thing that helps though is not using that type of language yourself.  Our children NEVER hear any of our family members talk that way. My DH & I were both raised in families that didn’t talk that way and now we are doing the same in our family.  If a child doesn’t hear it on a daily basis, it isn’t hard for them to learn NOT to use it.

Response:

I don’t object to the language that’s the problem here so it’s not a problem in my house but…. At my daughters preschool (she’s now 7), the kids were not allowed to use the word ‘butt’, they had to use ‘bum,’ ‘rear end’ or ‘tushie’ or some equivalent. Now, we use the word ‘butt’ at home regularly and this was never a problem at school because we explained to my daughter that the word was offensive to the director of the preschool (and possibly some of the parents) so she mustn’t say it around people who might be offended by it. That’s all it took. Now, as a 1st grader, she’s learning all kinds of bad words from her peers but she chooses not to use any of them. I recently had a talk with her about ‘bad words’ and my feelings on them (they’re not bad unless they’re used to hurt someone, words on their own are just words) and exactly what some new ones she learned meant. I’d recommend having a short conversation explaining bad words and what they’re all about – when they’re appropriate and when they’re not – what they mean and why people use them etc, answer any questions he might have and then drop it. Talk to you day care provider about it so that she can have a talk with him too. The less fuss you make about it, the better. Good luck! -Alexis > My 5 yr old has recently picked up letting out that fabulous word, mostly > just matter-of-factly.  That’s normally a word he wouldn’t hear around > the house, but once in a great while one would slip out.  His mother and > I have taken great care to have us and others watch their mouths around > him. > His daycare person is now bringing it to our attention that it comes out > frequently – in normal conversation.  I’m at a loss as to how to approach > this.  We’re doing the typical punishment (taking TV, special toys, etc. > away) and it doesn’t look like it’s working. > Anyone have any previous experiences with this?  How did you handle this? > Thanks!

Response:

"My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he had said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom)        " I don’t know about this boy, but I do know that I would want to be far away from someone who did this to me, let alone say anything at all around them ever again. I would call this traumatic. C.

Response:

My grandma had a tecnique that worked wonders for a little boy she used to babysit.  The little boy came home from Kindergarten with a note that he had said s**t.  She put him in a chair and made him say it for 10 minutes.  He sat there crying saying it over and over again.  (His mom gave my grandma permission to do this) His mom said he never said the word again. Dawn (Taylor and Mackenzie’s mom) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I  had a friend who decided the best way to deal with "taboo" words was to >tell the kid what exactly they meant, and ask them if that was what they >really wanted to be talking about.  It worked for her.  My kid would >probably tell me yes, that was what he wanted to be saying! >Krista >My 5 yr old has recently picked up letting out that fabulous word, mostly >just matter-of-factly.  That’s normally a word he wouldn’t hear around >the house, but once in a great while one would slip out.  His mother and >I have taken great care to have us and others watch their mouths around >him. >His daycare person is now bringing it to our attention that it comes out >frequently – in normal conversation.  I’m at a loss as to how to approach >this.  We’re doing the typical punishment (taking TV, special toys, etc. >away) and it doesn’t look like it’s working. >Anyone have any previous experiences with this?  How did you handle this? >Thanks!

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I  had a friend who decided the best way to deal with "taboo" words was to tell the kid what exactly they meant, and ask them if that was what they really wanted to be talking about.  It worked for her.  My kid would probably tell me yes, that was what he wanted to be saying! Krista – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My 5 yr old has recently picked up letting out that fabulous word, mostly >just matter-of-factly.  That’s normally a word he wouldn’t hear around >the house, but once in a great while one would slip out.  His mother and >I have taken great care to have us and others watch their mouths around >him. >His daycare person is now bringing it to our attention that it comes out >frequently – in normal conversation.  I’m at a loss as to how to approach >this.  We’re doing the typical punishment (taking TV, special toys, etc. >away) and it doesn’t look like it’s working. >Anyone have any previous experiences with this?  How did you handle this? >Thanks!

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".and by telling them they knew better words (and also explained that people who swear a lot are people with limited vocabularies — and our sons were very proud of all the nifty words they were learning at that age " Oh, I dunno about that Leah. some of the smartest people I know swear like longshoremen (I actually don’t know if all longshoremen really swear but like the way that sounds*g*)..ANd what about great writers, like Henry Miller for example???ANd poets, don’t forget poets. I don’t know if I swear alot, but I do swear daily. I think you are absolutely right about "giving power" to the word by drawing attention to it. It is kind of matter-of-fact in our house now…I don’t swear around our daughter but will say shit/shite without any reaction, but DBF does. ANd they have talks about it..He tells her that swearing is quite commonplace in our circle of friends, but that some people do not like it, so we have to respect that. And that its not nice to swear in public usually. In school, they call them "bathroom words", and that seems to work o.k for her too. So, even though she is exposed to it, she does nto do it, and its never an issue for us. I guess whatever works best for you. Cheers, C

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Perhaps ignoring these episodes and not reacting to them at all will get him bored with the word.  Once he realizes he’s not recieving any attention by saying it, perhaps he’ll stop.  Maybe he’s doing it for shock value.  He knows it gets a rise out of everyone.  Just an idea. Jeannie :) Jeannie  :)

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> ".and by telling them they > knew better words (and also explained that people who swear a lot are > people with limited vocabularies — and our sons were very proud of all > the nifty words they were learning at that age " > Oh, I dunno about that Leah. some of the smartest people I know swear like > longshoremen (I actually don’t know if all longshoremen really swear but > like the way that sounds*g*)..ANd what about great writers, like Henry > Miller for example???ANd poets, don’t forget poets.

Well, yeah.  Gods know *I’m* not immune.  In fact, at the time we were using this rationale on the boys, I had one day when I was really on a roll, and my youngest, who was about 6 at the time, looked at me very seriously and said "Mommy, you know better words than that!"  :) And yes, certainly very intelligent and literate people swear a blue streak…but for explaining it to young children, this reasoning worked well.  I figure they’ll figure out the truth soon enough.  :)  :) > I don’t know if I swear alot, but I do swear daily. I think you are > absolutely right about "giving power" to the word by drawing attention to > it. It is kind of matter-of-fact in our house now…I don’t swear around > our daughter but will say shit/shite without any reaction, but DBF does. > ANd they have talks about it..He tells her that swearing is quite > commonplace in our circle of friends, but that some people do not like it, > so we have to respect that. And that its not nice to swear in public > usually. In school, they call them "bathroom words", and that seems to > work o.k for her too. So, even though she is exposed to it, she does nto > do it, and its never an issue for us. I guess whatever works best for you.

Right.  And now that they’re older (nearly 13 and 8 1/2), when they question us about swearing, we just tell them that really, it’s one of those things that’s in the realm of ‘getting to do when you’re an adult’, and they accept that, too. But at the time, it really appealed to their ‘verbal vanity’ that somehow, by not swearing, that they were the more ’sophisticated’ ones, and that got us through that period of time fairly unscathed.  :) Leah

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My 5 yr old has recently picked up letting out that fabulous word, mostly just matter-of-factly.  That’s normally a word he wouldn’t hear around the house, but once in a great while one would slip out.  His mother and I have taken great care to have us and others watch their mouths around him. His daycare person is now bringing it to our attention that it comes out frequently – in normal conversation.  I’m at a loss as to how to approach this.  We’re doing the typical punishment (taking TV, special toys, etc. away) and it doesn’t look like it’s working. Anyone have any previous experiences with this?  How did you handle this? Thanks!

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> My 5 yr old has recently picked up letting out that fabulous word, mostly > just matter-of-factly.  That’s normally a word he wouldn’t hear around > the house, but once in a great while one would slip out.  His mother and > I have taken great care to have us and others watch their mouths around > him.

This is not abnormal at his age.  Children, around that age, are learning that words have power…how they express themselves, what they say and how they say it. > His daycare person is now bringing it to our attention that it comes out > frequently – in normal conversation.  I’m at a loss as to how to approach > this.  We’re doing the typical punishment (taking TV, special toys, etc. > away) and it doesn’t look like it’s working.

Nope…because you’re letting the word have *too* much power.  Look at how much attention you’re giving him for it. What worked for us when our sons realized that swearing brought attention (even negative attention), was not to give it attention.  If they swore, we calmly said "Oh, you know better words than that" and if necessary, gave them an ‘alternate’ word to use. For example, our eldest, when he was about 5, not only started using the ’s word’, but was using it "appropriately", i.e., when he was exasperated.  We told him he could use ‘fooey’, instead, and once he had a word of ‘his own’ that wouldn’t get him in trouble for using it <g>, he quickly made the substitution.   What made swearing fade in general, though, was not to punish for it, because that gave it too much attention paid…and by telling them they knew better words (and also explained that people who swear a lot are people with limited vocabularies — and our sons were very proud of all the nifty words they were learning at that age — we appealed to their ‘verbal vanity’, if you will <g>), it discouraged swearing in the long run. Hope that helps some. Leah

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I carpeted mine last week. Wife says she likes it so next week we’re running it up to the house. :)

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hahahahaha….you made my day… Have a good week 8~) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I carpeted mine last week. Wife says she likes it so next > week we’re running it up to the house. :)

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My two cents: I hate cold tile, and I also hate area rugs on tile, since nothing will convince me that sooner or later, I’m not going to step the wrong way and land on my rump. I also hate anything that you can’t really clean in places you can’t avoid getting dirty, especially when human males are taking aim in the vicinity [g]. My solution was to buy bath carpeting and cut it to fit. (Actually, I bought two, so one would be in the wash and one could be on the floor.) It has a rubber backing like mats, and it’s washable. Granted, it also has the look of mats, but it’s cheap enough to replace before it get’s too ratty…..           -=>epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

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I owned a house that was a great compromise.  The toilet closet was tile and there was a 12" line of tile along the bathtub and shower. The rest of the bathroom floor was carpet. This allowed me to keep the carpet dry and enjoy warm feet on cold mornings. Bob — HCI (Handgun Control Incorporated) – OSHA for violent criminals Copyright <

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I am the type who has to wash my face every night before bed or I will regret it in the morning (still have the skin of a teenager). The problem is that I hate to wash my face in the sink, cause I get water everywhere & I don’t always have the energy for a shower at night. I can’t use cold creams, they are way too heavy for my sensitive skin. So here’s my solution… I use baby wipes to clean all my make-up off, foundation, eye make-up, everything. At first I thought "Are these going to irritate my skin, after all it is pretty sensitive?" Well, I decided that if it’s gentle enough for my baby’s little 8 month old rear end, then it’s gentle enough for my 27 year old face. It works great! My skin actually looks 10 times better now. I use the Huggies brand, "Natural Care", unscented. I just grab one out of Sydney’s box after I put her in bed at night. Very convenient & way less expensive than all those darn bottle, jars & tubes of crap under my counter that will sit there till we move again. I still wash my face when I take a shower, but for those nights when Sydney has taken every ounce of my energy, it is GREAT! Give it a try! Kristen

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Kristen, Hear, hear!!  I’ve been doing this for years, and I agree with you 110%! I used to have them in the house even before my son was born… after my (now) 11 year old daughter was potty-trained, I never stopped buying them! I also use them to clean my computer monitor and TV screens… they’re QUITE versatile! And as you do, I also have a box of them on the vanity in my bathroom… great minds think alike, eh?  <g> Take care, Harley  :) —– – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am the type who has to wash my face every night before bed or I will > regret it in the morning (still have the skin of a teenager). > The problem is that I hate to wash my face in the sink, cause I get water > everywhere & I don’t always have the energy for a shower at night. I can’t > use cold creams, they are way too heavy for my sensitive skin. So here’s my > solution… > I use baby wipes to clean all my make-up off, foundation, eye make-up, > everything. At first I thought "Are these going to irritate my skin, after > all it is pretty sensitive?" Well, I decided that if it’s gentle enough for > my baby’s little 8 month old rear end, then it’s gentle enough for my 27 > year old face. It works great! My skin actually looks 10 times better now. I > use the Huggies brand, "Natural Care", unscented. I just grab one out of > Sydney’s box after I put her in bed at night. Very convenient & way less > expensive than all those darn bottle, jars & tubes of crap under my counter > that will sit there till we move again. > I still wash my face when I take a shower, but for those nights when Sydney > has taken every ounce of my energy, it is GREAT! > Give it a try! > Kristen

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Kristen – I’ll try it tonight – great idea.  Thanks. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am the type who has to wash my face every night before bed or I will > regret it in the morning (still have the skin of a teenager). > I still wash my face when I take a shower, but for those nights when Sydney > has taken every ounce of my energy, it is GREAT! > Give it a try! > Kristen

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great idea kristen at 30 I still have a teenagers skin also   still get lots of pimples  I will try it  thanks shannon  lauren’s mommy

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 Thanks for the idea Kristen.  I’ll definitely be giving it a try. — Denise Duggan (HyperMommy to Jimmy (10/93) & Joey (9/95))

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