Question:

I got a mag in the mail today and included with the mag is a ‘glossy’ ten page advertizing insert for VIKING kitchen equip. for the home.  VIKING is a commercial kitchen company that has gone into the upscale home-kitchen market…. So they have this two-page picture of someones kitchen (nice house, must I say..??)  with a complete line-up of VIKING stuff… Island range, dishwasher, refer, and double over/under oven…. … and on a shelf OVER the ovens, is a Silver Face Fender Combo…!!!  I don’t know which one, I’m not that good with amp-recognition, but it’s two channels and appears to be 1-12, or maybe it’s 2-10 (??) It’s very descrete and I doubt ANYONE except a guitar player wouldn’t see it…. Hmmmm…..  subliminal advertizing…???? Maybe I should scan the pic at high rez and look for "Buy tubes now… NBS "  hidden somewhere in the photo….  :-) gtski

Response:

hmmm….so if I let her buy a Viking fridge, maybe  I can arrange a concomitant ‘investment’ in that mint bfvr

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I got a mag in the mail today and included with the mag >is a ‘glossy’ ten page advertizing insert for VIKING >kitchen equip. for the home.  VIKING is a commercial >kitchen company that has gone into the upscale >home-kitchen market…. >So they have this two-page picture of someones >kitchen (nice house, must I say..??)  with a complete >line-up of VIKING stuff… Island range, dishwasher, >refer, and double over/under oven…. >… and on a shelf OVER the ovens, is a Silver Face >Fender Combo…!!!  I don’t know which one, I’m not >that good with amp-recognition, but it’s two channels >and appears to be 1-12, or maybe it’s 2-10 (??) >It’s very descrete and I doubt ANYONE except a >guitar player wouldn’t see it…. >Hmmmm…..  subliminal advertizing…???? >Maybe I should scan the pic at high rez and look for >"Buy tubes now… NBS "  hidden somewhere in the >photo….  :-) >gtski

Hey can you scan the pic and post it somewhere? Would be a hoot…

Response:

> hmmm….so if I let her buy a Viking fridge, maybe  I can arrange a > concomitant ‘investment’ in that mint bfvr

Sounds like a plan…!!!! Besides… the BFVR ‘displays’ nicely and is becoming quite cachet…. Here is MY angle… My wife is quite astute when it comes to ‘fashion/style’… she has an ‘eye’ for what is *about* to be ‘in’…. Lots of folks copy her  ideas and designs/arrangements…etc… So I was showing her the advert pointing out that there was this ‘vintage’ Fender amp perched over the dual ovens…. I said   "Hey..!!  look what’s being shown these days..!!!  Didn’t I tell To her credit and my GREAT fortune…. she replied… "So WHEN are you going to get that :-) gtski

Response:

Question:

Staying in Christchurch and Auckland (for 7 nights each) in Aug. Looking for recommendations for self catering apartments/units for both areas.  Preferably central/city areas up to around NZ$650 pw Cheers MC

Response:

>Staying in Christchurch and Auckland (for 7 nights each) in Aug. >Looking for recommendations for self catering apartments/units for both >areas.  Preferably central/city areas up to around NZ$650 pw >Cheers >MC

For NZ: www.aaguide.co.nz  may be of some assistance. Cath – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

> Staying in Christchurch and Auckland (for 7 nights each) in Aug. > Looking for recommendations for self catering apartments/units for both > areas.  Preferably central/city areas up to around NZ$650 pw

When looking for "self-catering apartments" in NZ bear in mind that nearly all motels are self-catering and have reasonably well equipped kitchens. Not quite to the standard of apartments in resorts in Australia which are furnished like houses, with dishwashers & laundry equipment. Vicki

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Question:

> one that looked pretty good at Best Buy. This dishwasher is > a GE and I don’t really have a good feel for how reliable > GE dishwashers are in general. Does anyone have any past

GE dishwashers are generally considered to be disposable low-end dishwashers. They do a reasonable job of cleaning, but are basically unrepairable and lack most features of more upscale brands. The only reason I would buy a GE dishwasher would be if I were outfitting a rental house where I want a basic dishwasher and don’t mind that it’s basically a disposable dishwasher, and I would only get the bottom of the line GE dishwasher (not a middle-of-the-line GE dishwasher) for that purpose. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

If you do a Google search, you’ll find lots of people – myself included – complaining about the poor design of GE dishwashers in which the fan, pump, and motor are in one continuous nonrepairable unit. When the fan comes loose, you either spend big bucks for a new unit or, as I did, buy a more sensibly designed dishwasher from another manufacturer. We won’t go into the poor cleaning performance and ergonomic hostility of the GE Potscrubber line unless you so wish. Art

Response:

>If you do a Google search, you’ll find lots of people – myself included – >complaining about the poor design of GE dishwashers in which the fan, pump, >and motor are in one continuous nonrepairable unit.

  Agreed, poor design. >When the fan comes loose, you either spend big bucks for a new unit or, as I >did, buy a more sensibly designed dishwasher from another manufacturer.

  Well, maybe not.  When that happened on mine I really thought it was a bearing.  Even sort-of convinced the GE help line person that is was.  And then made lots of noises about how, yeah it was out of warranty but really – it should last longer than the 3 years (I think) that it did.  They then gave me a deal for the part at 25% of list – maybe $35 or something.  I really don’t remember the exact amount but it made it bearable.  It’s been fine since.   Of course when I took the old one out and checked, sure enuf, it WAS the fan that had come loose on the shaft.  There must be some way to stick it down.  Drill a hole thru it for a pin or something.  If it happens again I’ll try that…  Or something. — |Bob Rahe, Delaware Tech&Comm Coll. /                                      | |Computer Center, Dover, Delaware /                                        |

Response:

we have a GE Triton Profile, it is very quiet and does a very good job of cleaning, I’d recommend it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m moving into a house that currently doesn’t have a dishwasher >or any place to put a dishwasher. I was thinking about buying >a portable dishwasher that can convert to a built-in and saw >one that looked pretty good at Best Buy. This dishwasher is >a GE and I don’t really have a good feel for how reliable >GE dishwashers are in general. Does anyone have any past >experience with GE that they would like to pass on? >thanks! >– >Ebeth Jones >"Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again"

Response:

> I’m moving into a house that currently doesn’t have a dishwasher > or any place to put a dishwasher. I was thinking about buying > a portable dishwasher that can convert to a built-in and saw > one that looked pretty good at Best Buy. This dishwasher is > a GE and I don’t really have a good feel for how reliable > GE dishwashers are in general. Does anyone have any past > experience with GE that they would like to pass on? > thanks! > — > Ebeth Jones > "Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again"

My current GE dishwasher is about a year old and replaced one that was about 15 years old.  Both were mid-line models.  No complaints.  The old one gave good service, cleaned well and didn’t need any repairs over its lifetime although it needed a new door gasket and the racks were missing pieces and rusty when I finally took it out.  I replaced the old machine because it seemed close to end-of-life and replacing racks and gasket were just the beginning of many repairs.  Who knows? Both machines were somewhat noisy, but no worse than others that I’ve heard. GE was very helpful whenever I had technical questions and called their Answer Center. TKM

Response:

>If you do a Google search, you’ll find lots of people – myself included – >complaining about the poor design of GE dishwashers in which the fan, pump, >and motor are in one continuous nonrepairable unit.

Many models are like that these days, not just GE. That includes Whirlpool, Frigidaire and some Maytag models. >When the fan comes loose, you either spend big bucks for a new unit or, as I >did, buy a more sensibly designed dishwasher from another manufacturer.

GE has redesigned the motor used in their dishwashers and that is no longer a problem with them. The new motor is also quieter and has more starting torque so it doesn’t just jammed from non-use like the original did. There is also a retrofit kit (see the following link) available to install the new design pump assembly in place of an original. http://ng.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=820985 Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+dishwasher =

Question:

Hi, My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way to live compared to staying at hotels? I’m looking at places that are clean and friendly, and would appreciate recommendations that anyone has. Thanks alot, nandini

Response:

I do not know whether it is cheaper to stay in b+bs in NZ compared to hotels but when we were in the Invercarghill( very South) area we stayed with ahead on the net.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would > like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way > to live compared to staying at hotels? I’m looking at places that are > clean and friendly, and would appreciate recommendations that anyone > has. > Thanks alot, > nandini

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>Hi, >My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would >like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way >to live compared to staying at hotels? I’m looking at places that are >clean and friendly, and would appreciate recommendations that anyone >has. >Thanks alot, >nandini

Try : www.windsorhotel.co.nz     Windsor "Budget B&B" Hotel (Christchurch) nzbnbhotels.com                 NZ’s Federation of B&B Hotels Inc www.bnb.co.nz                   The NZ B&B Book On-Line I’ve stayed at the first. Thre other two links are on my web site but haven’t checked them out lately. D.S.

Response:

B&B’s can be a good way to meet people, but they are not a way to save money. They are usually a little cheaper than a "name" hotel but can be more expensive than a motel. Around here (Canterbury, South Island) motels are NZ$70-120, B&B $80-200, hotels $140-200. Don’t write off the extensive Back-packers network which can be better than motels sometimes (eg SnowDen Lodge in Methven) and at least half the price. Out in the country, the pubs often have rooms of variable quality for $50 or less, with the added attraction of the interesting conversation with the locals propping up the bar. Feel free to ask for any more information. regards Nigel in NZ –"Sometimes my mind wanders…. sometimes it doesn’t come back"–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would > like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way > to live compared to staying at hotels? I’m looking at places that are > clean and friendly, and would appreciate recommendations that anyone > has. > Thanks alot, > nandini

Response:

> Hi, > My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would > like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way > to live compared to staying at hotels?

Er… Not really. B&B’s in NZ seem to be a completely different concept to those you find in the UK. They’re usually superb houses that compete on how much luxury they provide. Cheap, they definitely aren’t. You’re lucky to find one for under NZD100, and they’re regularly twice that. If you’re looking for something cheaper, motels are a good option. There’s a huge variation in what you get, but there are some really nice ones around – NZD60-80 seems the norm for these. There are also superb backpackers too – and there’s a huge variation in what you get. The word backpacker may put you off, but many have self-contained bits where you can be unsociable! We stayed in one where we got an entire cottage (kitchen, lounge etc) for NZD40…… hwyl! geraint

Response:

Motels are the cheap way to see NZ. Almost all motels have a kitchen (good to save money on breakfast) and are uniformly clean. December is school holidays so you will need to book ahead. B&Bs tend to be boutique hotelswhich must charge to that extra personal service they give.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > My husband and I are travelling to NZ in December this year and would > like to stay at B&Bs rather than hotels. Is this a less expensive way > to live compared to staying at hotels? I’m looking at places that are > clean and friendly, and would appreciate recommendations that anyone > has. > Thanks alot, > nandini

Response:

>B&B’s can be a good way to meet people, but they are not a way to save >money. They are usually a little cheaper than a "name" hotel but can be more >expensive than a motel. Around here (Canterbury, South Island) motels are >NZ$70-120, B&B $80-200, hotels $140-200. Don’t write off the extensive >Back-packers network which can be better than motels sometimes (eg SnowDen >Lodge in Methven) and at least half the price. SNIP >regards >Nigel in NZ >–"Sometimes my mind wanders…. sometimes it doesn’t come back"–

For lot’s of Backpacker info www.backpack.co.nz including a customer satisfacton rating NZ has the best backpacker accommodation in the world and there’s 300 to choose from on the BBH site. Not for everyone, but for many more than realise it! Have a good visit whatever. Regards Eric Foley www.backpack.co.nz

Response:

On the off chance that a customer testimonial might be useful… I’ve been to NZ twice – this last time for about three months. I am *very* pleased with the BBH network ( www.backpack.co.nz) and stayed at BBH backpack places almost exclusively (also stayed with friends in Invercargil ("Invergumboot" to the locals), in the Southern Alps and in Coromandel). The BBH folks will mail you a booklet. If theme, do not miss picking one up when you arrive at the airport (you didn’t mention if it’s Auk or ChCh). There are quite nice accommodations available in these – not what you’d think of as "backpacker’s". You do typically have to share a bathroom/toilet, though – so pack a robe or nightshirt or something. Some have sheets and towels (either an extra-cost option or included) so bring a set of these as well. I would particularly recommend: Le Bons Bay Backpackers (Akaroa – near ChCh) – In-lodge rooms as well as neat outlying cabins. I took a photo: http://koure.org:800/NewZealandTrip/Jpeg1536×1024/img0711.jpg There are also pretty-amazing cooperative dinners (you help clean up) for NZD10 or 15 (I forget which) Moana Lodge (Plimmerton – near Wel)  Here’a a photo of a double room I stayed in: http://koure.org:800/NewZealandTrip/Jpeg1536×1024/img0810.jpg Extra nice shared kitchen (with dishwasher!) Sunrise Lodge (Kaikoura) Great folks! Brent is a motor-head, as am I, so we spent a bunch of time in the garage. No photo, though – sorry. Hippo Lodge (Q-town). Fabulous view. Swimming pool at the school at the bottom of the hill (a don’t-care unless you’re a lap swimmer). Also no photo (sorry). There are lots of other good ones – those are just the standouts that I remember. The *only* one that had a "good" rating that I didn’t care for much (too spartan) was in Puponga – and doesn’t seem to be listed anymore. it *might* be the one listed as "World’s End" but I’m not sure.  OTOH, I saw the Southern Lights that evening, so it was OK… BTW, I put a bunch of photos from my last trip up at http://koure.org:800/default.htm#NewZealand As you can probably tell, I like NZ a lot. I also think that (particularly if you’re a solo traveler) the BBH backpackers are the way to go. Bob Kour

Question:

Help what do I do? I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those both shoulder straps. Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender Jazz. Are there special exercises I can do? Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? Help? David Axt

Response:

> Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do?

 Standing upright now and then could help. > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help?

I don’t work out or excersize at all, and the only time my back bothers me is after I have prolonged sexual activities with my wife.  (Don’t ask, OK?)  If playing a musical instrument like the Fender Bass is causing you pain, then you are playing it very strangly.

Response:

I have a herniated disc in my lower back and had a hard time of it for a while. I now practice sitting down and carry a stool with me when I play. there are times when I can sit on the stool and not detract from the stage presence. This has helped tremendously for me. When standing, make sure you are standing with a correct posture. It will become natural after a while. Good luck.

Response:

> I don’t work out or excersize at all, and the only time my back bothers > me is after I have prolonged sexual activities with my wife. >  (Don’t ask, OK?) >  If playing a musical instrument like the Fender Bass is causing you > pain, then you are playing it very strangly.

I beg to differ.  I have a bad back and the act of standing up for 4-5 hours during a gig will often produce severe pain (not to mention carrying the gear around)  Having a heavy bass will make it much worse.  For some people this is just a fact of life. In  my case it is a question of finding the right medications that dull the pain without dulling the senses.  Ask your doctor about Daypro and/or Tramadol (Ultram)  while neither kills the pain as well as Percocet, they dont kill my mental state either.  Or my ability to drive.

Response:

I’ve heard rumors of a 7 lb J bass, MIJ. I play a US Urge..32" scale, about 7 lbs. no pain or trouble with that one, but the best sounding basses kill me. hell of a compromise..I play the one that doesn’t hurt, instead of better sounding ones. /not that the Urge sounds bad, it doesn’t, it’s just not not favorite tone.  The bass has trained me, though.

Response:

I have a Tobias Growler.  Its light as a feather.  Made by Gibson, but a good bass.  They are discontinued, but show up on eBay and bassgear every so often.  The swamp ash body makes it light, you could look for basses made of swamp ash (not regular ash). SteveO

…snip… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz.

Response:

I use a Fender Precision Lyte (among others) – MIJ and sounds fine (for me). I bought it second hand after a series of gigs with my 6 string put my back/neck/shoulders out of whack. Jazz Bass neck dimensions, P/J pickup configuration, active pre-amp with Bass and Treble boost and cut (the Lyte Deluxe adds Mid control as well), and light as a feather. I believe they still make ‘em but they should be available fairly cheap used. A bunch of guys on this N.G. use or have used ‘em. Joe S.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do? > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help? > David Axt

Response:

> Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz.

I have a Tobias "Killer B" which is pretty light for a solid body bass, but my DeArmond Starfire hollow body is *really* light.  You might want to look into a hollow body bass, and see if you like the sound. Good luck, John

Response:

The DanElectro basses are light.  Some are 34" scale too. —  -rob    O>  /()   ^^ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > I have a Tobias "Killer B" which is pretty light for a solid body bass, > but my DeArmond Starfire hollow body is *really* light.  You might > want to look into a hollow body bass, and see if you like the sound. > Good luck, > John

Response:

Mine is too :-) Haven’t been able to turn my head right in 2 months :-) Makes driving fun :-) /note to self… whine to one of the Doctors at work next week… if I have time. —  -rob    O>  /()   ^^

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do? > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help? > David Axt

Response:

> Tramadol (Ultram)  while neither kills the pain as well as Percocet, they > dont kill my mental state either.  Or my ability to drive.

I recommed strong caution with Ultram. I have neropathy in both my feet. Makes standing for long periods painfull. After trying numerous non-effective pain-killers, my doctor prescribed a medium dosage of Ultram. First two weeks everything went great. I followed the instructions as indicated on the bottle. Noticed a significant improvement without any noticable side effects. While relief was not 100% it was good enough that we thought we had finally found a viable solution. Then about two weeks into the therapy, I began to lose blocks of time. I was shopping in a store trying to pass some time and I stopped in the book section. I looked up at the time: 3:10 pm and I needed to pick up my better half in an hour. I picked up a book at random and read the first paragrah. Glanced up at the time: now 4:00 pm. It had taken me 50 minutes to read the first paragraph. Within a day or two of that event I begain to experience severe auditory and tactile hallucinations. I immediately stopped taking the Ultram and notified my doctor. That’s when the real bad times began. I went through an 8-hour withdrawal period that was worse than any alchoholic DTs I’ve ever seen. Shakes, sweats, nausea, the whole nine yards. I began to research Ultram on the net and discovered that many people have this same reaction. Not everyone does so it may be fine for you. But be aware that negative reactions like this are more common than the product literature indicates. My doctor has stopped prescribing Ultram because 3 additional patients of his reported similar symptoms after I reported mine. Just search net and newsgroups for "Ultram + hallucinations" While this drug is touted as safe for use while driving, in my case, is certainly was not. Nor would I recommend it for gigging ("Yeah, great bass lick there kid, but the song ended about a hour ago. Any by the way, the song’s actually in 4/4, not 17/8.") Just my 0.02

Response:

Wow!  Thanks for the heads-up!  I only use it occasionally when the Daypro doesnt do the job.  I will deffinatley do some further research before I think about taking it on a regular basis!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Tramadol (Ultram)  while neither kills the pain as well as Percocet, they > dont kill my mental state either.  Or my ability to drive. > I recommed strong caution with Ultram. I have neropathy in both > my feet. Makes standing for long periods painfull. > After trying numerous non-effective pain-killers, my doctor prescribed > a medium dosage of Ultram. First two weeks everything went great. > I followed the instructions as indicated on the bottle. Noticed > a significant improvement without any noticable side effects. > While relief was not 100% it was good enough that we thought > we had finally found a viable solution. > Then about two weeks into the therapy, I began to lose blocks of > time. I was shopping in a store trying to pass some time and > I stopped in the book section. I looked up at the time: 3:10 pm > and I needed to pick up my better half in an hour. I picked up a > book at random and read the first paragrah. Glanced up at the time: > now 4:00 pm. It had taken me 50 minutes to read the first paragraph. > Within a day or two of that event I begain to experience severe > auditory and tactile hallucinations. I immediately stopped taking > the Ultram and notified my doctor. That’s when the real bad times > began. I went through an 8-hour withdrawal period that was worse > than any alchoholic DTs I’ve ever seen. Shakes, sweats, nausea, > the whole nine yards. > I began to research Ultram on the net and discovered that many > people have this same reaction. Not everyone does so it may be > fine for you. But be aware that negative reactions like this > are more common than the product literature indicates. My doctor > has stopped prescribing Ultram because 3 additional patients > of his reported similar symptoms after I reported mine. > Just search net and newsgroups for "Ultram + hallucinations" > While this drug is touted as safe for use while driving, in > my case, is certainly was not. Nor would I recommend it for > gigging ("Yeah, great bass lick there kid, but the song > ended about a hour ago. Any by the way, the song’s actually > in 4/4, not 17/8.") > Just my 0.02

Response:

I use the Epiphone Viola hollow body.  It may be too tribute for you. The other key, is situps, to balance the strength of your back.  I used to have lower back pain for years, then started a regimen of situps and pushups to strengthen. Rob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Help what do I do? >I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a >chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those >both shoulder straps. >Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender >Jazz. >Are there special exercises I can do? >Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? >Help? >David Axt

Response:

Have you ever thought about getting an acoustic bass to play? Much, much lighter and sometimes even more fun than the traditional electric. Just an idea. PlanetDan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do? > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help? > David Axt

Response:

have not tried it but I have heard good things! http://www.alexandertechnique.com/ stretch/massage: back, arms, shoulders and FEET(no kidding feet are real improtant)! excersise: back, shoulders, abs(this will help alot) stretch again and always maintain good posture… I as a rule, strongly advise against pharmaceuticals. always wanted to try a double shoulder strap….they look kind of funny though…. hmm I have an idea: if you play with your bass at waist level you could make a ‘belt’ strap to augment the regular one…dig? one could even run a strip from pin to pin which goes around the waist…keep the instrument from moving around and causing pain…. anyways good luck richard  ;-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do? > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help? > David Axt

Response:

David – Maybe you should consider not changing your bass, but changing your strap. Check out this link. It will take you to a discussion on bassplayers with sore backs and alternative guitar/bass straps. Seems the preferred one is a "Comfort Strapp". http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?s=4e49fbfe1ad5f18c78220b… Good luck, JC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Help what do I do? > I have been lifting weights, stretching, hot packs, etc..  I am seeing a > chiropractor and massage therapist.  I am considering getting one of those > both shoulder straps. > Is there a very light bass out there?  I currently play a Japanese Fender > Jazz. > Are there special exercises I can do? > Should I practice sitting down and only perform standing up? > Help? > David Axt

Response:

Sunny better change last line to young men John Rutz — see my pond at http://www.fuerjefe.net

Response:

Awwwwww….you guys will always be our big strong heroes! remember….. "The old grey mare ain’t what she used to be" either! :o ) Sunny – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sunny > better change last line to young men > John Rutz

Response:

> sorry Vern I couldn’t resist this::o) > MEN > Men are good at lifting heavy shit.

Sunny: You made my day.  I copied this for my DW and sent it to my three daughters.:-)Guess I am good for nothing right now though.:-( vern

Response:

 You are the guiding light for four beautiful women……how lucky can one guy be!!!  Hugs to you! (( )) Sunny "Just living is not enough"said the Butterfly, "One must have sunshine,freedom and a little flower" Hans C.Anderson

Question:

>this is my to-do list which i made at 7 this morning:

wow!  impressive.  I have days like that.  not enough of ‘em but some. I’d stick with *ssh*le as long as you can get away quickly. :) had a ceramic stove top once.  "Barkeepers Friend" was, at the time, the best cleaner for it. glad to have my gas range though it never looks clean no matter how hard I work on it.

Response:

Done good! C

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> this is my to-do list which i made at 7 this morning: > today, i will do it differently.  i will shower [because i have to go > for a QCT test this afternoon to see if i have lost any more bone mass > from osteoporosis], i will do laundry, i will finish the dishes, i will > buy another book in English because amazon.de is taking too long to send > "Artemis Fowl", i will go shopping because tomorrow is a holiday > [Himmelfahrt] and Alu will probably want to eat, and Alu will be coming > home tonight from working in K

Question:

> > Others are >complaining about the newer KA stand mixers.  Is Whirlpool sacrificing >KA quality, do you think? > Interesting since I understand that the small appliances (like the KA > stand mixers) did not go with the sale and may still be made by > KA/Hobart???

Hobart sold the entire KA line to Whirlpool in 1986. The commercial mixer line stayed with Hobart, which still makes 5-qt to 140-qt mixers. Those have Hobart badges, not KA. — Chris Green

Response:

>I had my KA dishwasher service a few weeks ago.  The service tech said that >they were having a lot of problems with the new models.

Did he happen to tell you what you should have bought?  (I’m in the market :)

Response:

>I bought a KUDS01DJ (Expensive), but I consider it the rolls royce of >dishwashers. Used to have a Maytag for 15 years and thought I was so happy >until I experienced this. Quiet, lovely layout, stainless interior, and does >a superb job cleaning. None of the cons mentioned below. May there is a drop >moisture here and there at the end of a cylcle, but it is minimal. All >dishwashers have it somewhat.

I had bought the best KA out there it sucked. it took forever dishes hardly came clean it was a joke. it cost use a bit over 700.00 we replaced it with a maytag that cost less then 400.00 and it does 10 times as good. it cleans the dishes better without soap then the KA did with soap. — Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. To subscribe to my good deals/beta testing/seconds email list send a email to

Response:

>Did he happen to tell you what you should have bought?  (I’m in the market :)

maytag Jet clean. even the cheepie one does far better then the top of the like KA I had. — Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. To subscribe to my good deals/beta testing/seconds email list send a email to

Response:

>Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by >it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one.

If I may ask, how long did the previous one last?

Response:

>>Did he happen to tell you what you should have bought?  (I’m in the market >:) >maytag Jet clean. even the cheepie one does far better then the top of the >like >KA I had.

Thanks– I’ll check it out.

Response:

> If I may ask, how long did the previous one last?

I don’t remember exactly, but I’m guessing it was 5 years old. — Steve Cohn

Response:

Is a Maytag that different than a Kitchen-Aid? I am a bit mystified. Granted I do my own repairs, but the old Maytags are a  piece of cake to repair and only the switch is expensive, so my 1979 model is still in service. That said, I hate the damn thing because it is so noisy. It cleans ok. My kids 1995 GE is so quiet, I think I will buy one even if it is less reliable. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Last week, I needed a new dishwasher. Since my current KitchenAid model >didn’t last very long, I thought I would replace it with a different >brand. But after searching these newsgroups, and talking to some repair >shops, I ended up buying another one, model KUDM01TJ. Here are my first >impressions: >Pros: >  - Runs fairly quietly, though not "silent". >  - Cleans quite well. >  - Easy to operate. >  - Adjustable racks and better layout make it >    easier to load than my previous one. >Cons: >  - Door feels very flimsy, especially compared >    to my old one. >  - When the cycle is finished, the dishes and >    all the inner workings are still quite wet. >  - The travel of the top rack’s slides is >    short enough that it’s difficult to load/ >    unload the rearmost dishes; especially if >    your kitchen counter has a large overhang. >Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by >it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one.

Response:

Per previous post,  my 1979 Maytag is/was so noisy I never would buy the brand again..  Is the Jet-Clean very quiet? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Did he happen to tell you what you should have bought?  (I’m in the market :) >maytag Jet clean. even the cheepie one does far better then the top of the like >KA I had.

Response:

>>Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by >it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one. >If I may ask, how long did the previous one last?

They last as long as you want to repair them! There is nothing to a dishwasher.  I cannot rationalize replacing one when they are so easy to repair.  Unless you have boatloads of money, want to update your kitchen or don’t like they way they clean or the sound they make.

Response:

> Last week, I needed a new dishwasher. Since my current KitchenAid model > didn’t last very long, I thought I would replace it with a different > brand. But after searching these newsgroups, and talking to some repair > shops, I ended up buying another one, model KUDM01TJ.

        <snipped> KitchenAid was bought by Whirlpool, although I don’t know just when. Could that make a difference?  I bought a KA washing machine last year thinking I’d get top of the line but learned later from r.f.e. that Whirlpool had bought them.  The washer is fair.  Others are complaining about the newer KA stand mixers.  Is Whirlpool sacrificing KA quality, do you think? Dora

Response:

>Per previous post,  my 1979 Maytag is/was so noisy I never would buy >the brand again..  Is the Jet-Clean very quiet?

I got the cheepie one so it is noisy. but it is not a big deal to me. You have to pay dearly for quiet. but back then You got noise it was just the way of it (G) — Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. To subscribe to my good deals/beta testing/seconds email list send a email to

Response:

>My kids 1995 GE is so quiet, I think I will buy one even if it is less >reliable.

the most expensive upgrade in a dishwasher is the noise reduction. the rest of it is mostly flash. — Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. To subscribe to my good deals/beta testing/seconds email list send a email to

Response:

I have to concur with MH. Our KA (same model) is close to perfect in every way: quiet, very effective, built-in disposer means no need to scrape plates (this really works). We have two of them.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a KUDS01DJ (Expensive), but I consider it the rolls royce of > dishwashers. Used to have a Maytag for 15 years and thought I was so happy > until I experienced this. Quiet, lovely layout, stainless interior, and does > a superb job cleaning. None of the cons mentioned below. May there is a drop > moisture here and there at the end of a cylcle, but it is minimal. All > dishwashers have it somewhat. > Last week, I needed a new dishwasher. Since my current KitchenAid model > didn’t last very long, I thought I would replace it with a different > brand. But after searching these newsgroups, and talking to some repair > shops, I ended up buying another one, model KUDM01TJ. Here are my first > impressions: > Pros: >   – Runs fairly quietly, though not "silent". >   – Cleans quite well. >   – Easy to operate. >   – Adjustable racks and better layout make it >     easier to load than my previous one. > Cons: >   – Door feels very flimsy, especially compared >     to my old one. >   – When the cycle is finished, the dishes and >     all the inner workings are still quite wet. >   – The travel of the top rack’s slides is >     short enough that it’s difficult to load/ >     unload the rearmost dishes; especially if >     your kitchen counter has a large overhang. > Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by > it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one. > — > Steve Cohn

Response:

>They last as long as you want to repair them! There is nothing to a >dishwasher.  I cannot rationalize replacing one when they are so easy >to repair.  Unless you have boatloads of money, want to update your >kitchen or don’t like they way they clean or the sound they make.

I didn’t think it was unwise when I replaced my JennAir after 5 years, when the drive shaft on the motor sheared for the second time (first time was covered by ‘hidden’ secret warranty) My previous GE that came with the house when it was built in 1975 was replaced in 1989 and according to the present owner the Kenmore (?) that replaced it is still running! Most appliances are not worth repairing, no matter how easy it may be to do because you usually find you are on a descending spiral of break downs and repairs, it is easier and cheaper to replace them after they outlive the original warranty period!

Response:

> Others are >complaining about the newer KA stand mixers.  Is Whirlpool sacrificing >KA quality, do you think?

Interesting since I understand that the small appliances (like the KA stand mixers) did not go with the sale and may still be made by KA/Hobart???

Response:

: : >Per previous post,  my 1979 Maytag is/was so noisy I never would buy : >the brand again..  Is the Jet-Clean very quiet? : > : : I got the cheepie one so it is noisy. but it is not a big deal to me. You have : to pay dearly for quiet. but back then You got noise it was just the way of it : (G) : We’ve just ordered the cheapest jet-clean model # MDB5100A based on the "salesperson" recommendation at Lowe’s.  He told me to get this one instead of a cheaper Frigidiare dishwasher, because it is very quiet.  My friend told me that all frigidiare dishwashers are very quiet even the cheapest/entry level one.  My major concern is quietness.  Should I cancel the order and order the frigidiare instead? Thanks, Richard : — : Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes : Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices : See http://www.knight-toolworks.com : For prices and ordering instructions. : To subscribe to my good deals/beta testing/seconds email list send a email to

Response:

> > Others are >complaining about the newer KA stand mixers.  Is Whirlpool sacrificing >KA quality, do you think? > Interesting since I understand that the small appliances (like the KA > stand mixers) did not go with the sale and may still be made by > KA/Hobart???

KA stand mixers are NOT made by Hobart.  I doubt that any of the KA products, small or large, are made by Hobart

Response:

> Since my current KitchenAid model didn’t last very long,

I’ve come to be pretty disgusted with KitchenAid. Our stand mixer is a robust workhorse, so when we needed a new blender, I got a KitchenAid. That seemed well designed and well built, so when we got a new refrigerator, we got a KitchenAid. Shortly after we got the fridge, the blender blades just separated from the shaft, perhaps a month out of warranty. Spouse contacted KitchenAid, who told her that they’d done a model change, and so we’d need a whole new glass blender jar, as well, for something very near the cost of a new machine. I wrote a disgusted letter – "thought I was buying quality" and all that – and they sent us the new jar for free. About a month ago, the plastic parts on the motor shaft that enage with the blender blades in the jar just totally stripped themselves – the motor is maybe three years old! And our less than two year old refrigerator is starting to run VERY noisy. Seems to me like they’re just trading on their name. The mixers may still be great, and my Mom’s KitchenAid dishwasher may have lasted 30 years, but a lot of the new stuff is flashy junk. — My Kylix book                       http://www.midnightbeach.com/kylix Consulting & contract programming   http://www.midnightbeach.com Stale homeschool resources          http://www.midnightbeach.com/hs

Response:

> Seems to me like they’re just trading on their name. The mixers may > still be great, and my Mom’s KitchenAid dishwasher may have lasted 30 > years, but a lot of the new stuff is flashy junk.

There was a thread some time back on the KA mixers made since Whirlpool took over.  Apparently, at least the newly-introduced (6 quart) model, supposed to be a workhorse, contained plastic gears and was giving purchasers a lot of trouble.  I believe this may have been corrected.  I hope Whirlpool isn’t ruining a good name in the interest of lower costs. Dora

Response:

> Seems to me like they’re just trading on their name. The mixers may > still be great, and my Mom’s KitchenAid dishwasher may have lasted > 30 > years, but a lot of the new stuff is flashy junk. > There was a thread some time back on the KA mixers made since > Whirlpool took over.  Apparently, at least the newly-introduced (6 > quart) model, supposed to be a workhorse, contained plastic gears and > was giving purchasers a lot of trouble.  I believe this may have been > corrected.  I hope Whirlpool isn’t ruining a good name in the interest > of lower costs.

I think that is exactly what is happening.  Whirlpool/Kitchen Aid products may be about the same quality as other products at the same price point, but people are buying KA appliances with the expectation that they are superior. I imagine that in many cases people don’t even comparison shop.  I had a moderately priced Hot Point washer that lasted over 20 years.  When it broke I didn’t consider getting it fixed.  I bought the top of the line Whirlpool and it broke in under 2 years and the tub started to rust.  My 5 year old KA dishwasher has had a lot of repairs.  It is on motor #3.  I washes great and is quiet, but I hold my breath when I push the start button.

Response:

I’ve been giving some consideration to replacing my 33 year old range and my 20 year old dishwasher and refrigerator for something that "looks" a bit better, but all of this talk is scaring me.  The dishwasher has had no service calls, (a couple of things broke, but I fixed them myself.   Neither was mechanical) the range has had one call, and the refrigerator has had none (again something broke but it was easy enough to diagnose and fix for myself.)  Obviously, if my appliances are that old, I’m no spring chicken. However, I’d like the new stuff to outlive me, but the horror stories make me feel that it’s highly unlikely. Pat (Female, age 58)( Who also has a KitchenAid/Hobart Mixer and a KitchenAid/Robot Coupe food processor, both bought in the early 80’s and both of which have worked without problems since then).  My motto?  If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it or replace it.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Seems to me like they’re just trading on their name. The mixers may > > still be great, and my Mom’s KitchenAid dishwasher may have lasted > 30 > > years, but a lot of the new stuff is flashy junk. > There was a thread some time back on the KA mixers made since > Whirlpool took over.  Apparently, at least the newly-introduced (6 > quart) model, supposed to be a workhorse, contained plastic gears and > was giving purchasers a lot of trouble.  I believe this may have been > corrected.  I hope Whirlpool isn’t ruining a good name in the interest > of lower costs. > I think that is exactly what is happening.  Whirlpool/Kitchen Aid products > may be about the same quality as other products at the same price point, but > people are buying KA appliances with the expectation that they are superior. > I imagine that in many cases people don’t even comparison shop.  I had a > moderately priced Hot Point washer that lasted over 20 years.  When it broke > I didn’t consider getting it fixed.  I bought the top of the line Whirlpool > and it broke in under 2 years and the tub started to rust.  My 5 year old KA > dishwasher has had a lot of repairs.  It is on motor #3.  I washes great and > is quiet, but I hold my breath when I push the start button.

Response:

> Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by > it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one.

I had my KA dishwasher service a few weeks ago.  The service tech said that they were having a lot of problems with the new models.

Response:

I bought a KUDS01DJ (Expensive), but I consider it the rolls royce of dishwashers. Used to have a Maytag for 15 years and thought I was so happy until I experienced this. Quiet, lovely layout, stainless interior, and does a superb job cleaning. None of the cons mentioned below. May there is a drop moisture here and there at the end of a cylcle, but it is minimal. All dishwashers have it somewhat.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Last week, I needed a new dishwasher. Since my current KitchenAid model > didn’t last very long, I thought I would replace it with a different > brand. But after searching these newsgroups, and talking to some repair > shops, I ended up buying another one, model KUDM01TJ. Here are my first > impressions: > Pros: >   – Runs fairly quietly, though not "silent". >   – Cleans quite well. >   – Easy to operate. >   – Adjustable racks and better layout make it >     easier to load than my previous one. > Cons: >   – Door feels very flimsy, especially compared >     to my old one. >   – When the cycle is finished, the dishes and >     all the inner workings are still quite wet. >   – The travel of the top rack’s slides is >     short enough that it’s difficult to load/ >     unload the rearmost dishes; especially if >     your kitchen counter has a large overhang. > Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by > it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one. > — > Steve Cohn

Response:

Last week, I needed a new dishwasher. Since my current KitchenAid model didn’t last very long, I thought I would replace it with a different brand. But after searching these newsgroups, and talking to some repair shops, I ended up buying another one, model KUDM01TJ. Here are my first impressions: Pros:   – Runs fairly quietly, though not "silent".   – Cleans quite well.   – Easy to operate.   – Adjustable racks and better layout make it     easier to load than my previous one. Cons:   – Door feels very flimsy, especially compared     to my old one.   – When the cycle is finished, the dishes and     all the inner workings are still quite wet.   – The travel of the top rack’s slides is     short enough that it’s difficult to load/     unload the rearmost dishes; especially if     your kitchen counter has a large overhang. Overall, this machine will work well, but I can’t say I’m blown away by it. I’m just hoping it will last longer than my previous one. — Steve Cohn

Response:

Question:

Hi guys, Plans are moving along with the 10 acres. The water we will have will come either from the ground around 400′ down, or what we can catch in 18"PA rainfall so conservation of water is an issue. It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal per month and we need to get that down significantly. I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for. I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow recorders??? I want to be able to read how many gallons has passed through in given time and see where we can cut back without screwing up our lifestyle too much. — Grumpy The Third Dwarf AKA Dave Johnson Metamucil, the ultimate load binder

Response:

> It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some > cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal > per month and we need to get that down significantly.

We use about 2400 gal/month for the two of us. Talk to a dealer or manufacturer of water softeners.  Many softeners recycle based on accumulated flow.  They use a small turbine like device.  You may well be able to buy (or make?) the part.  The electronics is pretty trivial.  Basically just a counter. Ted

Response:

>>Talk to a dealer or manufacturer of water softeners.  Many softeners >recycle based on accumulated flow.  They use a small turbine like

Thanks ted, I’ll chase it down. — Grumpy The Third Dwarf AKA Dave Johnson Metamucil, the ultimate load binder

Response:

I got one from Grainger. Looks just like the ones from your local municipality, and has a reed relay pick off from the gear train for electronic counting. But the gallons count was kept intact via the dials. All brass body. I think I paid $80 a few years ago. SteveK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Talk to a dealer or manufacturer of water softeners.  Many softeners >>recycle based on accumulated flow.  They use a small turbine like > Thanks ted, I’ll chase it down. > — > Grumpy The Third Dwarf > AKA Dave Johnson > Metamucil, the ultimate load binder

Response:

>I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and >outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow >recorders???

This post got me thinking (again) about nutating plate water meters.   I won’t admit how much time I spent websurfing today and staring at pictures — but I still can’t figure out how they work.  I understand how a volume of water moves from one side to the other as the plate nutates, but it looks to me like it’s a symmetrical system — so how does it know which way to rotate?   It also seems like there needs to be a "switching" or valving mechanism somewhere so it would go more than half a turn before stalling out.   Can anyone shed any light on this?    I think there’s a trip to the library or water department in my near future. Fortunately, one is across the street from the other… Please address email replies to:   but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

Response:

… > This post got me thinking (again) about nutating plate water > meters.   I won’t admit how much time I spent websurfing > today and staring at pictures — but I still can’t figure > out how they work.  I understand how a volume of water moves > from one side to the other as the plate nutates, but it > looks to me like it’s a symmetrical system — so how does it > know which way to rotate?   It also seems like there needs > to be a "switching" or valving mechanism somewhere so it > would go more than half a turn before stalling out. > Can anyone shed any light on this?    I think there’s a trip > to the library or water department in my near future. > Fortunately, one is across the street from the other…

… They likely have some kind of roller or bearing which only allows it to rotate in a single direction. The plate is actually a disk and it wobbles in circle so it is the switching mechanism you are looking for. It divides the chamber into two parts and as it wobbles the intake gets switched from one side to the other of the disk. This is a bit like how a wankle rotor manages to divide up the chamber it’s rotating within. Anthony

Response:

>I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and >outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow >recorders??? I want to be able to read how many gallons has passed >through in given time

http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0452.html about halfway down to "economy digital totalizers" — ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

Don, see:  http://www.badgermeter.com/udisc.html Badger Meter sells a ton of these things for residential and commercial water main service.  I personally don’t know why/how the nutating disk system works, but these guys obviously do. Mike Eberlein – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and >outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow >recorders??? > This post got me thinking (again) about nutating plate water > meters.   I won’t admit how much time I spent websurfing > today and staring at pictures — but I still can’t figure > out how they work.  I understand how a volume of water moves > from one side to the other as the plate nutates, but it > looks to me like it’s a symmetrical system — so how does it > know which way to rotate?   It also seems like there needs > to be a "switching" or valving mechanism somewhere so it > would go more than half a turn before stalling out. > Can anyone shed any light on this?    I think there’s a trip > to the library or water department in my near future. > Fortunately, one is across the street from the other… > Please address email replies to: > but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

Response:

You got me curious, too. See: http://www.google.com/search?q=nutating+disk+flowmeters&hl=en&start=1… Scroll down to page 4-5.  It shows a cutaway and an operating cycle. Not totally clear hows it works, but these are considered positive displacement flowmeters. Mike Eberlein (when you find out how these suckers work, let us know) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and >outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow >recorders??? > This post got me thinking (again) about nutating plate water > meters.   I won’t admit how much time I spent websurfing > today and staring at pictures — but I still can’t figure > out how they work.  I understand how a volume of water moves > from one side to the other as the plate nutates, but it > looks to me like it’s a symmetrical system — so how does it > know which way to rotate?   It also seems like there needs > to be a "switching" or valving mechanism somewhere so it > would go more than half a turn before stalling out. > Can anyone shed any light on this?    I think there’s a trip > to the library or water department in my near future. > Fortunately, one is across the street from the other… > Please address email replies to: > but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Plans are moving along with the 10 acres. The water we will have will > come either from the ground around 400′ down, or what we can catch in > 18"PA rainfall so conservation of water is an issue. > It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some > cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal > per month and we need to get that down significantly. > I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well > enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for. > I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and > outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow > recorders??? I want to be able to read how many gallons has passed > through in given time and see where we can cut back without screwing > up our lifestyle too much.

There are pics of my design of flowmeter here: http://www.iki.fi/ktu/watercooler/watercooler.html One would just have to add a counter to get a measurement of total amount of water. Wiring pulses from the flow meter to counter input would work fine. Using CD4026s and 7-seg displays it would be easy to do.   Kristian Ukkonen.

Response:

>You got me curious, too. >See: >http://www.google.com/search?q=nutating+disk+flowmeters&hl=en&start=1…

I visited these (and a bunch more) sites last night. Badger and Niagara sites were most informative, but  none of them are clear about where the water goes in and where it comes out.   It appears to me that the top and bottom chambers are always separated by a seal line around the periphery of the disk and around the ball, and fluid cannot go from one chamber to the other.  Hence,   there must be both inlet(s) and outlet(s) to both top and bottom chambers.   I’m starting to think that there must be some "valve" or steering action by locating ports above and below centerline.  I also am starting to think that they would be located 90deg apart rather than opposite,  thus providing a preferred direction of rotation — sorta like a 2-phase motor.     There must be a bazllion of these things in our basements, and they’ve been in use for 100 years.   The original patent was ca 1900 or so, to Thomson Meter Company but USPTO database only goes back to 1976 or so.   ARRRGGGHHHH!   Please address email replies to:   but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

Response:

>There are pics of my design of flowmeter here: >http://www.iki.fi/ktu/watercooler/watercooler.html

Kristian, what makes the water leave the cavity in the paddle under the discharge tube — and what replaces the water in that volume?  Air?  Vacuum?    ???   Please address email replies to:   but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

Response:

> >There are pics of my design of flowmeter here: >http://www.iki.fi/ktu/watercooler/watercooler.html > Kristian, what makes the water leave the cavity in the > paddle under the discharge tube — and what replaces the > water in that volume?  Air?  Vacuum?    ???

Inlet water. I think your hypothesis is that the paddle remains water filled and the paddle becomes a solid "disk", and water just flows between the "disk" and the outside wall. Propably that starts to happen as RPM of the paddle increases considerably. At 1.75 l/min, the paddle speed is only about 2.3 rotations per second. My idea was that the flow occurs between inlet and outlet, and the paddle perimeter speed remains about the same as the flow speed. The paddle design was just based on that, and finally tested if the idea works in practice. According to my tests, the design did (and does) work linearly at the max. few liters per minute range I was interested in. I did test it simply by letting a known volume be filled (by pumping liquid from reservoir) and measuring time required to fill, and did this at several flow rates. Of course, I’m always interested in hearing why this design can’t possibly work. :) btw: There is a rather similar flow meter design that uses a torus-shaped flow chamber, with inlet and outlet like in my design so that the flow goes about 1/4 – 1/2 of the torus inside, leaving and entering tangentially. Inside the torus is put a metal ball, with outside diameter somewhat smaller than torus crosssection diameter. The circulation of ball around torus is proportional to flow..   Kristian Ukkonen.

Response:

7000 gal per month?!!!!  I’d be checking for a leak in the main supply line or something running all the time like a broken toilet.  Check the water main meter at the street and see if it is running all the time.  If all the appliances are off and the meter is turning you have a leak. Bill Roosa

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Plans are moving along with the 10 acres. The water we will have will > come either from the ground around 400′ down, or what we can catch in > 18"PA rainfall so conservation of water is an issue. > It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some > cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal > per month and we need to get that down significantly. > I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well > enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for. > I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and > outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow > recorders??? I want to be able to read how many gallons has passed > through in given time and see where we can cut back without screwing > up our lifestyle too much. > There are pics of my design of flowmeter here: > http://www.iki.fi/ktu/watercooler/watercooler.html > One would just have to add a counter to get a > measurement of total amount of water. Wiring > pulses from the flow meter to counter input > would work fine. Using CD4026s and 7-seg displays > it would be easy to do. >   Kristian Ukkonen.

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If you think 7000 gals/month is high, you must not have teenage daughters. That’s about as low as mine goes, ever, and I don’t have leaky toilets, or a break in the main water line. Mike Eberlein – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 7000 gal per month?!!!!  I’d be checking for a leak in the main supply line > or something running all the time like a broken toilet.  Check the water > main meter at the street and see if it is running all the time.  If all the > appliances are off and the meter is turning you have a leak. > Bill Roosa > > Plans are moving along with the 10 acres. The water we will have will > > come either from the ground around 400′ down, or what we can catch in > > 18"PA rainfall so conservation of water is an issue. > > It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some > > cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal > > per month and we need to get that down significantly. > > I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well > > enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for. > > I want to put flow recorders in the kitchen, hot water heater and > > outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow > > recorders??? I want to be able to read how many gallons has passed > > through in given time and see where we can cut back without screwing > > up our lifestyle too much. > There are pics of my design of flowmeter here: > http://www.iki.fi/ktu/watercooler/watercooler.html > One would just have to add a counter to get a > measurement of total amount of water. Wiring > pulses from the flow meter to counter input > would work fine. Using CD4026s and 7-seg displays > it would be easy to do. >   Kristian Ukkonen.

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> If you think 7000 gals/month is high, you must not have teenage daughters. > That’s about as low as mine goes, ever, and I don’t have leaky toilets, or a > break in the main water line. > Mike Eberlein

Hi Mike Umm , well , if you think water usage is high with teenage daughters you should try teenage sons . Showers seem to take hours but I have not noticed it had much to do with getting clean  . Actually I blame the fathers that have teenage daughters for my problems , ha ha . Ken Cutt

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>Mike Eberlein (when you find out how these suckers work, let us know)

OK, I found out how they (nutating disk watermeters)  work. There is a key part not shown in any of the cutaway pix on the various websites, that being a radial vertical partition in the chamber.  The disk has a radial slot that rides up and down on this partition.     The input is on one side of the  partition, the output on the other.   With each nutation of the disk ,  two  wedge-shaped volumes  of water are carried from input to ouput, one above the disk and one below it.   The partition stops water from moving tangentially past it as the disk nutates, so it has to go out the output. I learned this with a trip to the water department.  They had a barrel full of old water meters, but they wouldn’t give me one because they sell the bodies as scrap. However, the guy there was kind enough to pull one out of the scrap barrel and take it apart so we could see how it works.     Please address email replies to:   but omit the U. Apologies for any  inconvenience.

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Well I have 3 sons 7,5,4 and they are filling the tub 3 times a day for baths.  Perhaps my genius is I only have 50 gal of hot water and no one is interested in taking cold bath/showers.  As the teenage years approach I may have to get a new smaller hot water heater or curb their appetite. Bill Roosa

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If you think 7000 gals/month is high, you must not have teenage daughters. > That’s about as low as mine goes, ever, and I don’t have leaky toilets, or a > break in the main water line. > Mike Eberlein > Hi Mike > Umm , well , if you think water usage is high with teenage daughters you > should try teenage sons . Showers seem to take hours but I have not > noticed it had much to do with getting clean  . Actually I blame the > fathers that have teenage daughters for my problems , ha ha . > Ken Cutt

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Question:

Hi guys, Plans are moving along with the 10 acres. The water we will have will come either from the ground around 400′ down, or what we can catch in 18"PA rainfall so conservation of water is an issue. It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal per month and we need to get that down significantly. I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for. I want to put flowmeters in the kitchen, hot water heater and outside spigots. Any suggestions where I can get small cheap flow meters??? — Grumpy The Third Dwarf AKA Dave Johnson Metamucil, the ultimate load binder

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… > It will be around 9 months before we move in and I want to put some > cheap flow meters on the taps in this house. We average about 7000gal > per month and we need to get that down significantly. > I can calculate the dishwasher, toilets and clothes washer well > enough, but that still leaves a large lump of water unaccounted for.

… I don’t have an answer for your question directly but it seems that if you were an average family of 4 that you would already be fairly conservative with your water use. 7000 gal/month is only about 58 gal/day per person. Some back of the envelope estimates: Clothes washer 40 gal/day    = 1200 gal/month. Dishwasher 2*20 gal/day      = 1200 gal/month. Cooking                      =    5 gal/month. Total ====>                    6845 gal/month. This leaves only about 5 gal/day for any other use of water. You could reduce your water use by using more efficient appliances and maybe low flow fixtures. For instance… http://www.staber.com/  sells a clothes washer that uses 16.5 gal/load. This could save you some 700 gallons a month. A composting or incinerating toilet uses no water for a potential savings of 1080 gallons a month. There are a lot of makers out there so I’m not going to try to list them all. Low flow shower heads with on/off buttons could reduce your showers down to say 15 gallons/each for a potential savings of 1200 gallons a month. Washing your dishes by hand might reduce that water use from 40 gal/day to 20 for a potential savings of 600 gallons a month. All together the above steps might save you some 3580 gallons a month or about half your water use. It would involve some lifestyle changes though and I’m not sure they are really needed. For instance, I never liked those super low flow shower fixtures myself. You mentioned 18" of annual rainfall at your location. If you were to build a 1400 sq foot single story house and could collect 90% of the water that falls on it’s roof you might get 1890 cubic feet or 14138 gallons of water a year. This amounts to some 1178 gallons a month or enough to allow you to have flush toilets or a dishwasher. Long and short of it though, if you’re on a well and it doesn’t do at least a couple of gallons a minute then it’s likely that the local building department wouldn’t let you build a home there in the first place. Anthony

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Thnaks for the response Anthony, >I don’t have an answer for your question directly but it seems that >if you were an average family of 4 that you would already be fairly

<g> Family of 2! Well 2 humans and 2 cats. >You could reduce your water use by using more efficient appliances and >maybe low flow fixtures.

I don’t want to make it too austere, still comfortable. I hate those 3-mouthfulls of spit in a wind-storm shower heads. >http://www.staber.com/  sells a clothes washer that uses 16.5 gal/load. >This could save you some 700 gallons a month.

A thousand bucks for a washer will pay to pump an awfull lot of water. >Washing your dishes by hand might reduce that water use from 40 gal/day >to 20 for a potential savings of 600 gallons a month.

Whoa back there, creature comforts please. >I never liked those super low flow shower fixtures myself.

Not gonna happen in my house. See above comment. >build a 1400 sq foot single story house and could collect 90% of the

The house is single story with about 2000sq-ft of living space, a single car garage about 300sq-ft and a workshop of around 2000sq-ft so we will have reasonable catchment. The main problem is that most of the rain comes in a few months. I’d planned on two 2500gal tanks. >Long and short of it though, if you’re on a well and it doesn’t do at >least a couple of gallons a minute then it’s likely that the local >building department wouldn’t let you build a home there in the first >place.

Not in AZ, the local county will let you build almost anywhere. The folks around Williams, Ash Fork and other places all haul water. I don’t want to be dependant on paying for it so the 400′ well and maybe a bunch of storage tanks is the answer. Tanks are about $500 a piece. Because we get tsuch a short but heavy reain season we can’t depend on the rainwater too much. Thanks again or the figures they will be helpfull. I guess what I really wanted the water recorder for was to point the finger at the water-waster in the house. <vbg> "See honey, you used 3000gal over the kitchen sink this month." — Grumpy The Third Dwarf AKA Dave Johnson Metamucil, the ultimate load binder

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 <vbg> "See honey, you used 3000gal over the >kitchen sink this month."

I read on one of our gov’s sites [DOE maybe, can't find it now] that using the dishwasher uses less water overall than washing by hand. Works for me.

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>  <vbg> "See honey, you used 3000gal over the >kitchen sink this month." > I read on one of our gov’s sites [DOE maybe, can't find it now] that > using the dishwasher uses less water overall than washing by hand. > Works for me.

Certainly not if that 40 gals /day for a dishwasher was right.

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>  <vbg> "See honey, you used 3000gal over the > >kitchen sink this month." > I read on one of our gov’s sites [DOE maybe, can't find it now] that > using the dishwasher uses less water overall than washing by hand. > Works for me. > Certainly not if that 40 gals /day for a dishwasher was right.

Personally, I could envision 3000 gal/month or more in the kitchen sink. As a guy who shares the cooking and cleaning in a family of four, I consume a lot of water continually cleaning, rinsing food, and so forth.  Also, running tap water until desired temperature is often a must, and depending on length from the heater, or cold water connection, I can drain quite a lot of water wastefully. Of course, when I was a bachelor living alone in my apartment I consumed a lot less water, except for those extended showers of endless hot water at a vigorous flow and pressure :) Duane

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Question:

A couple of times a year we tend to get black ants.  Usually we go down to Stop & Shop, buy a dozen ant traps and distribute them throughout the house and the problem is gone in a week or two.  This time we’re at a loss.  Same black ants, tried several types of traps (they all appear the same as far as what they do, Combat, Raid, etc, but all have different active ingrediants, they just say "kills ants", nothing more specific than that)… anyway, the ants ignore them.  They have now moved into the dishwasher (living inside the door).  We keep the kitchen very clean, and were sealing the dishwasher when we put dirty dishes into it, but the ants still got in and appear not to mind being washed.  We open up the door after the dishes have been washed and ants are gleefully running all over the clean dishes. We have three cats, and we’re not at the point yet where we want to call an exterminator, but we need to try something stronger than these ant traps that wont hurt the cats.  Also lately I have now noticed the occasional black and red ant, so it appears that a new type of ant is starting to move in as well.  I’ve searched thru deja.com to gather info about this problem but no clear cut solution seemed to be evident to me.  Thanks for any help.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A couple of times a year we tend to get black ants.  Usually we go down to > Stop & Shop, buy a dozen ant traps and distribute them throughout the house > and the problem is gone in a week or two.  This time we’re at a loss.  Same > black ants, tried several types of traps (they all appear the same as far as > what they do, Combat, Raid, etc, but all have different active ingrediants, > they just say "kills ants", nothing more specific than that)… anyway, the > ants ignore them.  They have now moved into the dishwasher (living inside > the door).  We keep the kitchen very clean, and were sealing the dishwasher > when we put dirty dishes into it, but the ants still got in and appear not > to mind being washed.  We open up the door after the dishes have been washed > and ants are gleefully running all over the clean dishes. > We have three cats, and we’re not at the point yet where we want to call an > exterminator, but we need to try something stronger than these ant traps > that wont hurt the cats.  Also lately I have now noticed the occasional > black and red ant, so it appears that a new type of ant is starting to move > in as well.  I’ve searched thru deja.com to gather info about this problem > but no clear cut solution seemed to be evident to me.  Thanks for any help.

Get rid of the cats, its their food droppings that the ants are after….  get rid of the food supply and the ants will go away.

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well obviously thats not going to happen, im sure there are many people with cats that dont have ant issues :) .  we usually manage to get rid of them with the baits, so i assume there is something we can do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Get rid of the cats, its their food droppings that the ants are > after….  get rid of the food supply and the ants will go away.

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Have you tried "Terro Ant Killer" Its basically boric acid in a sugar solution I think. We’ve used it at home in southeast PA with very good results. Cheap too, like under $3 for a bottle that should last a decent amount of time. Should be able to get at like Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc….

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i havent tried it because its dangerous to pets.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Have you tried "Terro Ant Killer" > Its basically boric acid in a sugar solution I think. > We’ve used it at home in southeast PA with very good results. > Cheap too, like under $3 for a bottle that should last a decent amount of > time. Should be able to get at like Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc….

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> i havent tried it because its dangerous to pets. > Have you tried "Terro Ant Killer" > Its basically boric acid in a sugar solution I think. > We’ve used it at home in southeast PA with very good results. > Cheap too, like under $3 for a bottle that should last a decent amount of > time. Should be able to get at like Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc….

We use borax laundry soap with white sugar. Mix 50 50. The ants take it back to the queen who then explodes and the nest is killed. Trap you use are trying to kill a few ants at a time. A long process.

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