Question:

Can some kind informed soul tell me the BTU/Litre of Propane and Furnace Oil? Harv —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> Can some kind informed soul tell me the BTU/Litre of Propane and > Furnace Oil?

If you don’t mind those modern metric units ( kWh ) here you go. http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/ccl/pdf/na(00)59.pdf Light fuel oil 11.53 kWh/litre Medium fuel oil 11.63 kWh/litre Heavy fuel oil 11.66 kWh/litre Commercial propane 13.89 kWh/kg Commercial butane 13.69 kWh/kg Of course – gas isn’t measured by the litre unless liquified – so you’ll need that conversion factor. http://www.euroheat.co.uk/support/pdf/13_General_Technical_Advice/096… Liquid Propane Gas 1.95 Litres Liquid Per Kilogram Butane Gas 1.74 Litres Liquid Per Kilogram Ok so that’s 1.95 litres per kg for propane. Or 0.513 kg/litre. 7.12 kWh/litre is what I make it. About 60% of the energy density ( per unit volume ) of fuel oil. Butane is 7.86kWh/litre for comparison. Graham isn’t Google handy. If you need BTUs you’ll have to convert. I don’t do old-fashioned units. I found the mixing of BTUs and litres quite entertaining.

Response:

> Can some kind informed soul tell me the BTU/Litre of Propane and > Furnace Oil? > Harv

Standard terminology is now Megajoules per kilogram Fuel   MJ/KG Corn   15 Coal   27 Natural Gas 50 Wood    15 Propane-bulk  50 Gas/Kero/Oil   48 Propane (BBQ)  50 References http://aginfo.psu.edu/News/december00/corn.html  http://bioenergy.ornl.gov/papers/misc/biochar_factsheet.html

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can some kind informed soul tell me the BTU/Litre of Propane and > Furnace Oil? >If you don’t mind those modern metric units ( kWh ) here you go. >http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/ccl/pdf/na(00)59.pdf >Light fuel oil 11.53 kWh/litre >Medium fuel oil 11.63 kWh/litre >Heavy fuel oil 11.66 kWh/litre >Commercial propane 13.89 kWh/kg >Commercial butane 13.69 kWh/kg >Of course – gas isn’t measured by the litre unless liquified – so you’ll >need that conversion factor. >http://www.euroheat.co.uk/support/pdf/13_General_Technical_Advice/096… >Liquid Propane Gas >1.95 Litres Liquid Per Kilogram >Butane Gas >1.74 Litres Liquid Per Kilogram >Ok so that’s 1.95 litres per kg for propane. Or 0.513 kg/litre. 7.12 >kWh/litre is what I make it. About 60% of the energy density ( per unit >volume ) of fuel oil. >Butane is 7.86kWh/litre for comparison. >Graham >isn’t Google handy. >If you need BTUs you’ll have to convert. I don’t do old-fashioned units. >I found the mixing of BTUs and litres quite entertaining.

Thank you very much for your response. Glad I could entertain you. :) Both Propane and Furnace Oil are sold by the Litre here (Toronto, Ontario, Canada) and furnaces are still rated in BTUs/ Hr. I’m trying to make an informed decision on which fuel tp use to replace a worn out oil furnace. The fuel supply people will only give their version of the alleged truth. :) Harv —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Can some kind informed soul tell me the BTU/Litre of Propane and > Furnace Oil? > Harv >Standard terminology is now Megajoules per kilogram >Fuel   MJ/KG >Corn   15 >Coal   27 >Natural Gas 50 >Wood    15 >Propane-bulk  50 >Gas/Kero/Oil   48 >Propane (BBQ)  50 >References http://aginfo.psu.edu/News/december00/corn.html > http://bioenergy.ornl.gov/papers/misc/biochar_factsheet.html

Thank you very much for your reply. I did try Google but obviously supplied the wrong key words. Harv —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

>… I’m trying >to make an informed decision on which fuel tp use to replace a worn >out oil furnace. The fuel supply people will only give their version >of the alleged truth. :)

Don’t forget to take the boiler/furnace efficiency in account. Another factor, at least here (Calgary, Alberta), is the crazy pricing apparently resulting from deregulation etc – the cost of the natural gas or electricity is sometimes less that 50% of the monthly bill, because of Administration Charges, a Fixed Charge, City Licence/tax and two or three other things. — Cochrane, Alberta, Canada. "Helping People Prosper in the Information Age"

Response:

> Don’t forget to take the boiler/furnace efficiency in account. > Another factor, at least here (Calgary, Alberta), is the crazy pricing > apparently resulting from deregulation etc – the cost of the natural > gas or electricity is sometimes less that 50% of the monthly bill, > because of Administration Charges, a Fixed Charge, City Licence/tax > and two or three other things. > — > Cochrane, Alberta, Canada. > "Helping People Prosper in the Information Age"

When I bought my house, it had a gas water heater. It was the only natural gas appliance. That was before the bills were as separated out as they are now, but even then the bill was 4 parts "monthly charge" and equipment rental, and 1 part consumption. At the time the bills were consistently about 13 dollars a month, and I frequently waited a few months before paying. This got the bill collection apparatus a Union Gas very upset, even though there was very little money involved. They flatly refused to consider a longer billing period. Eventually I got fed up with the aggravation and replaced the hot water tank with an electric one. Yup, gas cost less per Btu if I only looked at the consumption charge, but in the total cost calculation at the time, I saved money and got rid of a monthly pest. Steve Thomas Ontario, Canada

Response:

> >… I’m trying >to make an informed decision on which fuel tp use to replace a worn >out oil furnace. The fuel supply people will only give their version >of the alleged truth. :) > Don’t forget to take the boiler/furnace efficiency in account. > Another factor, at least here (Calgary, Alberta), is the crazy pricing > apparently resulting from deregulation etc – the cost of the natural > gas or electricity is sometimes less that 50% of the monthly bill, > because of Administration Charges, a Fixed Charge, City Licence/tax > and two or three other things.

Intruiging. In the UK it has been traditional for bills to include a fixed ’standing charge’ that’s meant to represent the infrastructure cost. It’s not very much by comparison with 50% ! Recent competition in the UK energy market had led to various tariff options that completely eliminate this charge – i.e. you pay only by energy used. Graham

Response:

Question:

>What Rod is failing to recognize is the thermal mass of everything in the >house. > > It doesn’t save money. > Corse it does.

Perhaps you don’t disagree with that. And… > > The amount of stored heat in a house is a lot to overcome. > Pity the amount stored doesnt change much

Maybe this is where you disagree. You seem to be saying that the contents of a house remain warm for a very long time after an AC setback, making the house so uncomfortable to be in that the setback isn’t worth the money savings. >While this might not be much of an issue if the entire contents of the house >were made of plastic…

That sounds nice, for effective setbacks. >…it does make a difference when things are made of every day materials >such as wood, cotton, metal etc.  Depending on the thermal mass of the >materials in your home, and even your walls, the heat can be stored for >lengthy periods of time, and released slowly back into your home.

… 1/2" drywall stores 1/2 Btu/F per square foot. A slow-moving airfilm has a thermal resistance of about 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2, which makes RC = 0.33 hours, ie 20 minutes. If you expose 90 F drywall to 70 F air, after 1 hour, it should be 70+(90-70)e^(-1/0.33) = 71 F. >One obvious place this heat is stored is in a bed.  A bed that gets to >90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week of a desired temperature >to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable to sleep on again.

If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 h), in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, or a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which would require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm for >a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of.

Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that time. >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices.

Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… >All of this heat is attracted to the cold when the air conditioning is >turned back on and makes its way back into the room.

Maybe we need heat scarecrows. >These are the same principles that make passive solar heating so effective.

"Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in >through the windows.

And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with >an outside temperature in the teens.

How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F night? >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the >windows were blocked off.

Windows are bad news, thermally-speaking. Low R-values compared to walls. Lots of labor and thermal bridging. They can admit sun, bugs, rain, and burglars, vs outdoor cameras and flat screen TVs or computer projectors. >While a cool temperature on the surface of a particular solar mass will >make it release that heat more readily, it will still do it slowly, and >it can take days.

It should take about 5 cloudy days, for a high solar heating fraction. Direct gain floors need insulation above, but how would we heat them? And how would we avoid losing heat through the windows at night and on cloudy days? >Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your bed would be >uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall or laying on the floor all >would be similarly uncomfortable.

The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience?   >All in all, the truth of the matter is that every environment is different, >and depending on the outside climate, the thermal masses inside, the length >of time the AC is off, and many other factors, it may save more money, but >it won’t necessarily be comfortable for several days.

Maybe yes, maybe no… >If an air conditioned house isn’t comfortable, what’s the point in having >air conditioning?

Where I live, it’s nice for a few weeks a year, with daytime setbacks and night ventilation with cool dry air, when possible. Nick

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->What Rod is failing to recognize is the thermal mass of everything in the >house. >> > It doesn’t save money. >> Corse it does. > Perhaps you don’t disagree with that. > And… >> > The amount of stored heat in a house is a lot to overcome. >> Pity the amount stored doesnt change much > Maybe this is where you disagree. You seem to be saying that > the contents of a house remain warm for a very long time after > an AC setback, making the house so uncomfortable to be in that > the setback isn’t worth the money savings. >While this might not be much of an issue if the entire contents of the house >were made of plastic… > That sounds nice, for effective setbacks. >…it does make a difference when things are made of every day materials >such as wood, cotton, metal etc.  Depending on the thermal mass of the >materials in your home, and even your walls, the heat can be stored for >lengthy periods of time, and released slowly back into your home. > … 1/2" drywall stores 1/2 Btu/F per square foot. A slow-moving airfilm > has a thermal resistance of about 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2, which makes RC = 0.33 > hours, ie 20 minutes. If you expose 90 F drywall to 70 F air, after 1 hour, > it should be 70+(90-70)e^(-1/0.33) = 71 F. >One obvious place this heat is stored is in a bed.  A bed that gets to >90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week of a desired temperature >to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable to sleep on again. > If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 h), > in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) > = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = > RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, or > a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which would > require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after 8 hours > in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F.

After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that won’t release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again.  Again, I’m not talking about the cost difference, I’m talking about the comfort difference. >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm for >a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat might > precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that time.

Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, or anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. > Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better…

Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->All of this heat is attracted to the cold when the air conditioning is >turned back on and makes its way back into the room. > Maybe we need heat scarecrows. >These are the same principles that make passive solar heating so effective. > "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in >through the windows. > And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket.

Yes, but where temperatures don’t often get below 90 degrees at night, such as Phoenix, the windows will also be allowing heat into the house, no matter how many panes you have. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with >an outside temperature in the teens. > How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at dusk, > with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F night? >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the >windows were blocked off. > Windows are bad news, thermally-speaking. Low R-values compared to walls. > Lots of labor and thermal bridging. They can admit sun, bugs, rain, and > burglars, vs outdoor cameras and flat screen TVs or computer projectors. >While a cool temperature on the surface of a particular solar mass will >make it release that heat more readily, it will still do it slowly, and >it can take days. > It should take about 5 cloudy days, for a high solar heating fraction. > Direct gain floors need insulation above, but how would we heat them? > And how would we avoid losing heat through the windows at night and on > cloudy days?

You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You close the shutters at night or on cloudy days and they become irrelevant as a "hole." Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes pointing north and south.  On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south to allow heat to escape.  Windows enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few inches.  Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will be shut at night.  An air circulation system to circulate air through the house, including the floor and the furnace.  The walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about 16-20.  They will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and therefore less leaky. Anyway, this should give you a better idea of what I’m talking about and how it works.  I could go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. >Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your bed would be >uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall or laying on the floor all >would be similarly uncomfortable. > The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience?

My experience is with a house in Phoenix.  The AC went out for a couple days, and it took the better part of a week for it to feel comfortable again.  It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 degrees.  I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand 78 without sweating normally, but the heat being given off by the house that wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->All in all, the truth of the matter is that every environment is different, >and depending on the outside climate, the thermal masses inside, the length >of time the AC is off, and many other factors, it may save more money, but >it won’t necessarily be comfortable for several days. > Maybe yes, maybe no… >If an air conditioned house isn’t comfortable, what’s the point in having >air conditioning? > Where I live, it’s nice for a few weeks a year, with daytime setbacks > and night ventilation with cool dry air, when possible. > Nick

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >What Rod is failing to recognize is the thermal mass of everything in the > >house. > >> > It doesn’t save money. > >> Corse it does. > Perhaps you don’t disagree with that. > And… > >> > The amount of stored heat in a house is a lot to overcome. > >> Pity the amount stored doesnt change much > Maybe this is where you disagree. You seem to be saying that > the contents of a house remain warm for a very long time after > an AC setback, making the house so uncomfortable to be in that > the setback isn’t worth the money savings. > >While this might not be much of an issue if the entire contents of the > house > >were made of plastic… > That sounds nice, for effective setbacks. > >…it does make a difference when things are made of every day materials > >such as wood, cotton, metal etc.  Depending on the thermal mass of the > >materials in your home, and even your walls, the heat can be stored for > >lengthy periods of time, and released slowly back into your home. > … 1/2" drywall stores 1/2 Btu/F per square foot. A slow-moving airfilm > has a thermal resistance of about 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2, which makes RC = 0.33 > hours, ie 20 minutes. If you expose 90 F drywall to 70 F air, after 1 > hour, > it should be 70+(90-70)e^(-1/0.33) = 71 F. > >One obvious place this heat is stored is in a bed.  A bed that gets to > >90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week of a desired temperature > >to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable to sleep on again. > If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 > h), > in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) > = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = > RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, > or > a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which > would > require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after 8 > hours > in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. > After 8 hours you should have been asleep for > 4 hours on that bed that won’t release its heat.

Soorree, thermal mass works BOTH ways. If its got that much thermal mass, say with a waterbed, it wont have heated up much in the time you were at work with the AC off either. > Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another > 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again.

In fact if its got a lot of thermal mass like with a waterbed, the temperature wont change much at all even when the  AC is left off while you are at work. > Again, I’m not talking about the cost difference, > I’m talking about the comfort difference.

Sure, but you STILL havent managed to work out the basics with thermal mass. > >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm > for > >a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > might > precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that time. > Try walls constructed of wood.

Low thermal mass again. > Walls insulated with recycled news print, or anything > else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting.

Still low thermal mass. With those the surface temp will change quickly, but the temperature of the core wont. So the surface temp of the walls will come down quickly when the AC is turned on before you come home. >> Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. > Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… > Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter.

Wrong again. That was the reason for very high ceilings in the days before active AC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >All of this heat is attracted to the cold when the air conditioning is > >turned back on and makes its way back into the room. > Maybe we need heat scarecrows. > >These are the same principles that make passive solar heating so > effective. > "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. > >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > >through the windows. > And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > Yes, but where temperatures don’t often get below 90 degrees > at night, such as Phoenix, the windows will also be allowing > heat into the house, no matter how many panes you have.

That last bit is just plain wrong. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with > >an outside temperature in the teens. > How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at > dusk, > with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F > night? > >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the > >windows were blocked off. > Windows are bad news, thermally-speaking. Low R-values compared to walls. > Lots of labor and thermal bridging. They can admit sun, bugs, rain, and > burglars, vs outdoor cameras and flat screen TVs or computer projectors. > >While a cool temperature on the surface of a particular solar mass will > >make it release that heat more readily, it will still do it slowly, and > >it can take days. > It should take about 5 cloudy days, for a high solar heating fraction. > Direct gain floors need insulation above, but how would we heat them? > And how would we avoid losing heat through the windows at night and on > cloudy days? > You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You > close the shutters at night or on cloudy days and they become irrelevant as > a "hole." > Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors > made of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes > pointing north and south.  On top of that is a thin concrete slab with > holes on the north and south to allow heat to escape.  Windows > enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly > on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few inches.

If you get the eaves right, you wont get any encroachment at all in summer. Thats the last thing you want in hot summers. > Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will > be shut at night.  An air circulation system to circulate air > through the house, including the floor and the furnace.  The > walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about > 16-20.  They will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and > therefore less leaky. Anyway, this should give you a better > idea of what I’m talking about and how it works.  I could > go into many other details, but it would take an entire book.

Nope. >> Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your >> bed would be uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall >> or laying on the floor all would be similarly uncomfortable. > The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? > My experience is with a house in Phoenix.  The AC went out for a couple > days, and it took the better part of a week for it to feel comfortable again.

Pity that couches have fuck all thermal mass and so the problem must have been a dud AC. > It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, > but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 degrees.

Presumably the humidity was high and you’re a sweaty pig. > I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand > 78 without sweating normally, but the heat being given off by > the house that wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable.

Presumably the AC wasnt doing a proper job dehumidifying. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >All in all, the truth of the matter is that every environment is > different, > >and depending on the outside climate, the thermal masses inside, the > length > >of time the AC is off, and many other factors, it may save more money, > but > >it won’t necessarily be comfortable for several days. > Maybe yes, maybe no… > >If an air conditioned house isn’t comfortable, what’s the point in having > >air conditioning? > Where I live, it’s nice for a few weeks a year, with daytime setbacks > and night ventilation with cool dry air, when possible.

Response:

Don’t even reply to me anymore Rod.  You have proven you aren’t interested in reality, and I’m not going to indulge you anymore.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >What Rod is failing to recognize is the thermal mass of everything in the > > >house. > > >> > It doesn’t save money. > > >> Corse it does. > > Perhaps you don’t disagree with that. > > And… > > >> > The amount of stored heat in a house is a lot to overcome. > > >> Pity the amount stored doesnt change much > > Maybe this is where you disagree. You seem to be saying that > > the contents of a house remain warm for a very long time after > > an AC setback, making the house so uncomfortable to be in that > > the setback isn’t worth the money savings. > > >While this might not be much of an issue if the entire contents of the > house > > >were made of plastic… > > That sounds nice, for effective setbacks. > > >…it does make a difference when things are made of every day materials > > >such as wood, cotton, metal etc.  Depending on the thermal mass of the > > >materials in your home, and even your walls, the heat can be stored for > > >lengthy periods of time, and released slowly back into your home. > > … 1/2" drywall stores 1/2 Btu/F per square foot. A slow-moving airfilm > > has a thermal resistance of about 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2, which makes RC = 0.33 > > hours, ie 20 minutes. If you expose 90 F drywall to 70 F air, after 1 > hour, > > it should be 70+(90-70)e^(-1/0.33) = 71 F. > > >One obvious place this heat is stored is in a bed.  A bed that gets to > > >90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week of a desired temperature > > >to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable to sleep on again. > > If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 > h), > > in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC

= -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = > > RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, > or > > a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which > would > > require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after 8 > hours > > in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. > After 8 hours you should have been asleep for > 4 hours on that bed that won’t release its heat. > Soorree, thermal mass works BOTH ways. If its got that much > thermal mass, say with a waterbed, it wont have heated up > much in the time you were at work with the AC off either. > Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another > 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again. > In fact if its got a lot of thermal mass like with a > waterbed, the temperature wont change much at > all even when the  AC is left off while you are at work. > Again, I’m not talking about the cost difference, > I’m talking about the comfort difference. > Sure, but you STILL havent managed to > work out the basics with thermal mass. > > >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm > for > > >a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > > Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > might > > precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that time. > Try walls constructed of wood. > Low thermal mass again. > Walls insulated with recycled news print, or anything > else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. > Still low thermal mass. > With those the surface temp will change > quickly, but the temperature of the core wont. > So the surface temp of the walls will come down quickly > when the AC is turned on before you come home. >>> Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. >> Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… > Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter. > Wrong again. That was the reason for very > high ceilings in the days before active AC > > >All of this heat is attracted to the cold when the air conditioning is > > >turned back on and makes its way back into the room. > > Maybe we need heat scarecrows. > > >These are the same principles that make passive solar heating so > effective. > > "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > > isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. > > >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > > >through the windows. >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > Yes, but where temperatures don’t often get below 90 degrees > at night, such as Phoenix, the windows will also be allowing > heat into the house, no matter how many panes you have. > That last bit is just plain wrong. > > >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with > > >an outside temperature in the teens. > > How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at > dusk, > > with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F > night? > > >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the > > >windows were blocked off. > > Windows are bad news, thermally-speaking. Low R-values compared to walls. > > Lots of labor and thermal bridging. They can admit sun, bugs, rain, and > > burglars, vs outdoor cameras and flat screen TVs or computer projectors. > > >While a cool temperature on the surface of a particular solar mass will > > >make it release that heat more readily, it will still do it slowly, and > > >it can take days. > > It should take about 5 cloudy days, for a high solar heating fraction. > > Direct gain floors need insulation above, but how would we heat them? > > And how would we avoid losing heat through the windows at night and on > > cloudy days? > You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You > close the shutters at night or on cloudy days and they become irrelevant as > a "hole." > Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors > made of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes > pointing north and south.  On top of that is a thin concrete slab with > holes on the north and south to allow heat to escape.  Windows > enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly > on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few inches. > If you get the eaves right, you wont get any encroachment at all in summer. > Thats the last thing you want in hot summers. > Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will > be shut at night.  An air circulation system to circulate air > through the house, including the floor and the furnace.  The > walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about > 16-20.  They will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and > therefore less leaky. Anyway, this should give you a better > idea of what I’m talking about and how it works.  I could > go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. > Nope. >>> Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your >>> bed would be uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall >>> or laying on the floor all would be similarly uncomfortable. >> The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? > My experience is with a house in Phoenix.  The AC went out for a couple > days, and it took the better part of a week for it to feel comfortable again. > Pity that couches have fuck all thermal mass > and so the problem must have been a dud AC. > It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, > but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 degrees. > Presumably the humidity was high and you’re a sweaty pig. > I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand > 78 without sweating normally, but the heat being given off by > the house that wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable. > Presumably the AC wasnt doing a proper job dehumidifying. > > >All in all, the truth of the matter is that every environment is > different, > > >and depending on the outside climate, the thermal masses inside, the > length > > >of time the AC is off, and many other factors, it may save more money, > but > > >it won’t necessarily be comfortable for several days. > > Maybe yes, maybe no… > > >If an air conditioned house isn’t comfortable, what’s the point in having > > >air conditioning? > > Where I live, it’s nice for a few weeks a year, with daytime setbacks > > and night ventilation with cool dry air, when possible.

Response:

> Don’t even reply to me anymore Rod.

Go shove your head up a dead bear’s arse, timmy child. > You have proven you aren’t interested in reality,

Even you should be able to bullshit your way out of your predicament better than that pathetic effort, timmy child. Have fun actually explaining the REALITY seen by those who choose to turn their AC off while they are at work and who find that it works fine on that basic stuff like the temperature of the couch and bed etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > >What Rod is failing to recognize is the thermal mass of everything in > the > > > >house. > > > >> > It doesn’t save money. > > > >> Corse it does. > > > Perhaps you don’t disagree with that. > > > And… > > > >> > The amount of stored heat in a house is a lot to overcome. > > > >> Pity the amount stored doesnt change much > > > Maybe this is where you disagree. You seem to be saying that > > > the contents of a house remain warm for a very long time after > > > an AC setback, making the house so uncomfortable to be in that > > > the setback isn’t worth the money savings. > > > >While this might not be much of an issue if the entire contents of > the > > house > > > >were made of plastic… > > > That sounds nice, for effective setbacks. > > > >…it does make a difference when things are made of every day > materials > > > >such as wood, cotton, metal etc.  Depending on the thermal mass of > the > > > >materials in your home, and even your walls, the heat can be stored > for > > > >lengthy periods of time, and released slowly back into your home. > > > … 1/2" drywall stores 1/2 Btu/F per square foot. A slow-moving > airfilm > > > has a thermal resistance of about 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2, which makes RC = > 0.33 > > > hours, ie 20 minutes. If you expose 90 F drywall to 70 F air, after 1 > > hour, > > > it should be 70+(90-70)e^(-1/0.33) = 71 F. > > > >One obvious place this heat is stored is in a bed.  A bed that gets > to > > > >90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week of a desired > temperature > > > >to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable to sleep on again. > > > If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week > (168 > > h), > > > in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC > = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) > > > = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C > = > > > RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" > deep, > > or > > > a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which > > would > > > require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after 8 > > hours > > > in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. > > After 8 hours you should have been asleep for > > 4 hours on that bed that won’t release its heat. > Soorree, thermal mass works BOTH ways. If its got that much > thermal mass, say with a waterbed, it wont have heated up > much in the time you were at work with the AC off either. > > Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another > > 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again. > In fact if its got a lot of thermal mass like with a > waterbed, the temperature wont change much at > all even when the  AC is left off while you are at work. > > Again, I’m not talking about the cost difference, > > I’m talking about the comfort difference. > Sure, but you STILL havent managed to > work out the basics with thermal mass. > > > >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel > warm > > for > > > >a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > > > Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > > might > > > precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that > time. > > Try walls constructed of wood. > Low thermal mass again. > > Walls insulated with recycled news print, or anything > > else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. > Still low thermal mass. > With those the surface temp will change > quickly, but the temperature of the core wont. > So the surface temp of the walls will come down quickly > when the AC is turned on before you come home. > >>> Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. > >> Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… > > Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter. > Wrong again. That was the reason for very > high ceilings in the days before active AC > > > >All of this heat is attracted to the cold when the air conditioning > is > > > >turned back on and makes its way back into the room. > > > Maybe we need heat scarecrows. > > > >These are the same principles that make passive solar heating so > > effective. > > > "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with > low-mass > > > isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot > better. > > > >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > > > >through the windows. > >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > > Yes, but where temperatures don’t often get below 90 degrees > > at night, such as Phoenix, the windows will also be allowing > > heat into the house, no matter how many panes you have. > That last bit is just plain wrong. > > > >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight > with > > > >an outside temperature in the teens. > > > How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F > at > > dusk, > > > with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F > > night? > > > >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all > the > > > >windows were blocked off. > > > Windows are bad news, thermally-speaking. Low R-values compared to > walls. > > > Lots of labor and thermal bridging. They can admit sun, bugs, rain, > and > > > burglars, vs outdoor cameras and flat screen TVs or computer > projectors. > > > >While a cool temperature on the surface of a particular solar mass > will > > > >make it release that heat more readily, it will still do it slowly, > and > > > >it can take days. > > > It should take about 5 cloudy days, for a high solar heating fraction. > > > Direct gain floors need insulation above, but how would we heat them? > > > And how would we avoid losing heat through the windows at night and on > > > cloudy days? > > You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You > > close the shutters at night or on cloudy days and they become irrelevant > as > > a "hole." > > Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors > > made of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes > > pointing north and south.  On top of that is a thin concrete slab with > > holes on the north and south to allow heat to escape.  Windows > > enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly > > on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few > inches. > If you get the eaves right, you wont get any encroachment at all in > summer. > Thats the last thing you want in hot summers. > > Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will > > be shut at night.  An air circulation system to circulate air > > through the house, including the floor and the furnace.  The > > walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about > > 16-20.  They will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and > > therefore less leaky. Anyway, this should give you a better > > idea of what I’m talking about and how it works.  I could > > go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. > Nope. > >>> Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your > >>> bed would be uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall > >>> or laying on the floor all would be similarly uncomfortable. > >> The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? > > My experience is with a house in Phoenix.  The AC went out for a couple > > days, and it took the better part of a week for it to feel comfortable > again. > Pity that couches have fuck all thermal mass > and so the problem must have been a dud AC. > > It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally > were, > > but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 > degrees. > Presumably the humidity was high and you’re a sweaty pig. > > I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand > > 78 without sweating normally, but the heat being given off by > > the house that wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable. > Presumably the AC wasnt doing a proper job dehumidifying. > > > >All in all, the truth of the matter is that every environment is > > different, > > > >and depending on the outside climate, the thermal masses inside, the > > length > > > >of time the AC is off, and many other factors, it may save more > money,

… read more »

Response:

>> >…A bed that gets to 90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week > >of a desired temperature to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable > >to sleep on again.

This seems unlikely to me. > If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 h), > in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) > = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = > RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, > or a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which > would require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after > 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. >After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that won’t >release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another 8 >hours it’s back up to the same temp again.

I’m afraid this makes little sense to me. Would you like to explain further? We could calculate the bed temp after 16 hours at 70 F and 8 at 90 F, which would be closer to 70. But most beds are far less massy than the one you seem to suggest. They are mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric (the mattress), so they would tend to cool quickly to 70 F in early evening.   > >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm > >for a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > >Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > >might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that > >time.

To a first approximation, a room with 80 F walls and 70 F air should feel the same as a room with 75 F air and walls, according to the ASHRAE 55-2004 thermal comfort spec. Initially overcooling the air in a house (or turning on a ceiling fan or a sprinkler) to make up for initially higher mean radiant temps from walls and furniture may use less energy than cooling the house to a constant temp for an hour or two before the setback ends. >Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, or >anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting.

We discussed drywall. Nobody mentioned fiberglass. Wood doesn’t have much thermal capacity by volume, as you can see from the bed example. Neither do most insulations. > >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. > Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… >Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter.

Ceilings are better for heat storage because they can be a lot warmer than the room, especially with a low-e surface. Floors can’t, to the same degree. > "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. > >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > >through the windows. > And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with > >an outside temperature in the teens. >How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at >dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F >night?

Well? IIRC, you claimed to have an EE degree… > >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the > >windows were blocked off.

Can you be more quantitative? >You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You >close the shutters at night or on cloudy days…

Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire of doing that. Automatic systems seem preferable. >Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made of >cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes pointing north >and south.

Concrete blocks with about 5 Btu/F and lots of surface. What’s underneath? >On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south >to allow heat to escape.

A warm air path… How could this possibly work passively? You might make the slab thicker to store more heat, altho you can’t make it much warmer than the room temp without cooking the occupants. Massy ceilings are better. >Windows enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly >on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few inches.

"Direct loss," with miserable performance, compared to indirect gain. >Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will be shut at night.

You may be the rare kind of guy who will actually operate shutters twice a day for years and years… >An air circulation system to circulate air through the house, including >the floor and the furnace.

Is this the passive part? :-) >The walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about 16-20.  They >will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and therefore less leaky.

Sounds like they need to be 16-20" thick, on average, vs 12" R48 SIPs. >I could go into many other details, but it would take an entire book.

Kachadorian’s. I wonder where this house will be. > >Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your bed would be > >uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall or laying on the floor all > >would be similarly uncomfortable. > The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? >My experience is with a house in Phoenix.

"The center of Hell." :-) >The AC went out for a couple days, and it took the better part of a week >for it to feel comfortable again.

Was this an adobe house? Was "the better part" 3 days? >It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, >but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 degrees.

Maybe the warm walls made the beds feel uncomfortably warm to you. >I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand 78 without >sweating normally, but the heat being given off by the house that >wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable.

How did the house store so much heat in a couple of days without AC? Why did it take so long to become comfortable again? With insulation outside thermal mass, it seems to me the inside of the house should warm slowly without AC and cool quickly with AC. Nick

Response:

>I’m afraid this makes little sense to me. Would you like to explain further? >We could calculate the bed temp after 16 hours at 70 F and 8 at 90 F, which >would be closer to 70. But most beds are far less massy than the one you seem >to suggest. They are mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric >(the mattress), so they would tend to cool quickly to 70 F in early evening.  

How do you get the bed to cool more quickly than the air in the room?

Response:

> I’m afraid this makes little sense to me. Would you like to explain further? > We could calculate the bed temp after 16 hours at 70 F and 8 at 90 F, which > would be closer to 70. But most beds are far less massy than the one you > seem to suggest. They are mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric > (the mattress), so they would tend to cool quickly to 70 F in early evening. > How do you get the bed to cool more quickly than the air in the room?

He never said anything like that.

Response:

>> >…A bed that gets to 90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week >> >of a desired temperature to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable >> >to sleep on again. > This seems unlikely to me. >> If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 h), >> in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC

= -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = >> RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" deep, >> or a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep (which >> would require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, after >> 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. >After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that won’t >release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another 8 >hours it’s back up to the same temp again. > I’m afraid this makes little sense to me. Would you like to explain further? > We could calculate the bed temp after 16 hours at 70 F and 8 at 90 F, which > would be closer to 70. But most beds are far less massy than the one you seem > to suggest. They are mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric > (the mattress), so they would tend to cool quickly to 70 F in early

evening. I wasn’t using my figures.  It was stated that a bed that has risen to a temperature of 90 degrees will reach 71 degrees after 8 hours in 70 degree air.  Since thermal mass works both ways, the speed is the same for it to reach 90 degrees again.  So, if his figures are correct, and a bed takes 8 hours to cool 20 degrees, it also takes 8 hours to heat. As far as them being only air steel and fabric, yes, the box springs are like that, but most matresses are filled with fairly tightly packed padding, usually cotton I believe.  That cotton has a much higher thermal mass than wood, steel, and fabric of the box springs. >> >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel warm >> >for a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. >> >Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat >> >might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during that >> >time. > To a first approximation, a room with 80 F walls and 70 F air should feel > the same as a room with 75 F air and walls, according to the ASHRAE

55-2004 The air in the room would feel that way, but if you have furniture to sit on or lay on, that 80 degree heat directly on your skin will not feel like 75 degrees. > thermal comfort spec. Initially overcooling the air in a house (or turning > on a ceiling fan or a sprinkler) to make up for initially higher mean radiant > temps from walls and furniture may use less energy than cooling the house to > a constant temp for an hour or two before the setback ends. >Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, or >anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. > We discussed drywall. Nobody mentioned fiberglass. Wood doesn’t have much > thermal capacity by volume, as you can see from the bed example. Neither > do most insulations.

Actually wood is a fairly good thermal mass.  I don’t have the figures right here, but I believe it was rated at 2.78.  Whatever it was, it was close to that. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. >> Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… >Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter. > Ceilings are better for heat storage because they can be a lot warmer than > the room, especially with a low-e surface. Floors can’t, to the same degree. >> "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass >> isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot better. >> >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in >> >through the windows. >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. >> >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with >> >an outside temperature in the teens. >>How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at >>dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an 11 F >>night? > Well? IIRC, you claimed to have an EE degree…

I didn’t ask that question, and that has nothing to do with electrical engineering. >> >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all the >> >windows were blocked off. > Can you be more quantitative? >You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You >close the shutters at night or on cloudy days… > Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire of doing that. Automatic > systems seem preferable.

Where the house I’m building will be off the grid, energy efficiency is something that is quite the necessity.  If I get tired of it, it wouldn’t take anything to make light actuated motors to open and shut the doors. >Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made of >cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes pointing north >and south. > Concrete blocks with about 5 Btu/F and lots of surface. What’s underneath?

Compacted sand or gravel with a 6 mil poly vapor barrier. >On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south >to allow heat to escape. > A warm air path… How could this possibly work passively? You might make > the slab thicker to store more heat, altho you can’t make it much warmer > than the room temp without cooking the occupants. Massy ceilings are

better. May I suggest a book?  The Passive Solar House by James Kachadorian.  If you have a massy ceiling, the heat stored in the ceiling is exposed to the cold outside air when the sun goes down.  While it may work to a degree, it isn’t very efficient.  The exposure to the outside cold draws any heat transferred by the sun quite fast, especially if the ambient temperatures are rather low.  That’s not to mention what would happen if the roof were covered in snow.  With a solar slab design, you expose the slab to the solar energy during the day and you insulate it from the cold during the night.  This way, the majority of the heat dissapation will happen inside the house, and not to the outside. >Windows enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine directly >on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few inches. > "Direct loss," with miserable performance, compared to indirect gain.

I don’t understand where you get the direct loss from. >Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will be shut at night. > You may be the rare kind of guy who will actually operate shutters > twice a day for years and years…

See above.  Light actuated timed relays connected to a motor can be easily and cheaply made. >An air circulation system to circulate air through the house, including >the floor and the furnace. > Is this the passive part? :-)

Well, I don’t care how good you build a house, there is no way you can have everything perfectly the temperature you want it.  I guess I should have explained that the air circulation would be a method for the air to efficiently circulate through the house.  The only time it would be active would be those times the furnace needs to be turned on.  Otherwise, the circulation happens due to heat difference. >The walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about 16-20. They >will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and therefore less leaky. > Sounds like they need to be 16-20" thick, on average, vs 12" R48 SIPs.

That depends on the wood you use.  You can get anything from .8 R per inch for oak to 1.48 R per inch for cedars.  I’m building mine out of pine which has a 1.35 R per inch rating.  That doesn’t even include the thermal mass gains in an area with mild climate. >I could go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. > Kachadorian’s. I wonder where this house will be.

Actually, that is the one I found to be most helpful.  Didn’t think you had read it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your bed would be >> >uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall or laying on the floor all >> >would be similarly uncomfortable. >> The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? >My experience is with a house in Phoenix. > "The center of Hell." :-) >The AC went out for a couple days, and it took the better part of a week >for it to feel comfortable again. > Was this an adobe house? Was "the better part" 3 days? >It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, >but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was 72 degrees. > Maybe the warm walls made the beds feel uncomfortably warm to you. >I like a temperature between 72 and 75, and I can stand 78 without >sweating normally, but the heat being given off by the house that >wasn’t in the air was definitely uncomfortable. > How did the house store so much heat in a couple of days without AC? > Why did it take so long to become comfortable again? With insulation > outside thermal mass, it seems to me the inside of the house should > warm slowly without AC and cool quickly with AC.

That house was not very well insulated.  It was built in the ’50s. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nick

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> >…A bed that gets to 90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week > >> >of a desired temperature to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable > >> >to sleep on again. > This seems unlikely to me. > >> If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week (168 > h), > >> in 70 F air, 75 = 70+(90-70)e^-(168/RC), so RC > = -168/ln((75-70)/(90-70)) > >> = 121 hours. An upper airfilm conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F would make C = > >> RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 Btu/h-F, eg a waterbed that’s 12×80.6/64 = 15" > deep, > >> or a 39" deep concrete bed, or a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep > (which > >> would require a serious diet or a high ceiling.) Starting from 70 F, > after > >> 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) = 71 F. > >After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that > won’t > >release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for another 8 > >hours it’s back up to the same temp again. > I’m afraid this makes little sense to me. Would you like to explain > further? > We could calculate the bed temp after 16 hours at 70 F and 8 at 90 F, > which > would be closer to 70. But most beds are far less massy than the one you > seem > to suggest. They are mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and > fabric > (the mattress), so they would tend to cool quickly to 70 F in early > evening. > I wasn’t using my figures.  It was stated that a bed > that has risen to a temperature of 90 degrees will > reach 71 degrees after 8 hours in 70 degree air.

Nope, he was using your stupid numbers, fool. > Since thermal mass works both ways, the speed is the same > for  it to reach 90 degrees again.  So, if his figures are correct,

They aint, they’re completely silly. > and a bed takes 8 hours to cool 20 > degrees, it also takes 8 hours to heat.

Pity both are just silly fantasys. > As far as them being only air steel and fabric, yes, the box springs are > like that, but most matresses are filled with fairly tightly packed padding,

Wrong again. > usually cotton I believe.  That cotton has a much higher > thermal mass than wood, steel, and fabric of the box springs.

Not a fucking clue, as always. > >> >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel > warm > >> >for a couple of days depending on the materials it is constructed of. > >> >Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > >> >might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during > that > >> >time. > To a first approximation, a room with 80 F walls and 70 F air should feel > the same as a room with 75 F air and walls, according to the ASHRAE > 55-2004 > The air in the room would feel that way, but if you have furniture to sit on > or lay on, that 80 degree heat directly on your skin will not feel like 75 degrees.

Sure, but that happens normally. Thats why a chair feels warm when you sit on it just after someone else has, stupid. > thermal comfort spec. Initially overcooling the air in a house (or turning > on a ceiling fan or a sprinkler) to make up for initially higher mean > radiant > temps from walls and furniture may use less energy than cooling the house > to > a constant temp for an hour or two before the setback ends. > >Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, > or > >anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. > We discussed drywall. Nobody mentioned fiberglass. Wood doesn’t have much > thermal capacity by volume, as you can see from the bed example. Neither > do most insulations. > Actually wood is a fairly good thermal mass.

Not a fucking clue, as always. > I don’t have the figures right here, but I believe it was rated at 2.78.

That aint the thermal mass, fool. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Whatever it was, it was close to that. > >> >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices. > >> Warm air rises. Concrete ceilings can work, but water is better… > >Warm air rises, but when all the air is warm it doesn’t really matter. > Ceilings are better for heat storage because they can be a lot warmer than > the room, especially with a low-e surface. Floors can’t, to the same > degree. > >> "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > >> isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform a lot > better. > >> >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > >> >through the windows. > >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > >> >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight > with > >> >an outside temperature in the teens. > >>How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at > >>dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an > 11 F > >>night? > Well? IIRC, you claimed to have an EE degree… > I didn’t ask that question, and that has nothing to do with electrical > engineering. > >> >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all > the > >> >windows were blocked off. > Can you be more quantitative? > >You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You > >close the shutters at night or on cloudy days… > Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire of doing that. Automatic > systems seem preferable. > Where the house I’m building will be off the grid, energy efficiency is > something that is quite the necessity.  If I get tired of it, it wouldn’t > take anything to make light actuated motors to open and shut the doors. > >Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made > of > >cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows with the holes pointing > north > >and south. > Concrete blocks with about 5 Btu/F and lots of surface. What’s underneath? > Compacted sand or gravel with a 6 mil poly vapor barrier. > >On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south > >to allow heat to escape. > A warm air path… How could this possibly work passively? You might make > the slab thicker to store more heat, altho you can’t make it much warmer > than the room temp without cooking the occupants. Massy ceilings are > better. > May I suggest a book?  The Passive Solar House by James Kachadorian.  If you > have a massy ceiling, the heat stored in the ceiling is exposed to the cold > outside air when the sun goes down.  While it may work to a degree, it isn’t > very efficient.  The exposure to the outside cold draws any heat transferred > by the sun quite fast, especially if the ambient temperatures are rather > low.  That’s not to mention what would happen if the roof were covered in > snow.  With a solar slab design, you expose the slab to the solar energy > during the day and you insulate it from the cold during the night.  This > way, the majority of the heat dissapation will happen inside the house, and > not to the outside. > >Windows enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine > directly > >on the floor in winter, but in summer the sun will only encroach a few > inches. > "Direct loss," with miserable performance, compared to indirect gain. > I don’t understand where you get the direct loss from. > >Insulated shutters available for all windows, and they will be shut at > night. > You may be the rare kind of guy who will actually operate shutters > twice a day for years and years… > See above.  Light actuated timed relays connected to a motor can be easily > and cheaply made. > >An air circulation system to circulate air through the house, including > >the floor and the furnace. > Is this the passive part? :-) > Well, I don’t care how good you build a house, there is no way you can have > everything perfectly the temperature you want it.  I guess I should have > explained that the air circulation would be a method for the air to > efficiently circulate through the house.  The only time it would be active > would be those times the furnace needs to be turned on.  Otherwise, the > circulation happens due to heat difference. > >The walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about 16-20. > They > >will be of a Scandinavian chinkless design, and therefore less leaky. > Sounds like they need to be 16-20" thick, on average, vs 12" R48 SIPs. > That depends on the wood you use.  You can get anything from .8 R per inch > for oak to 1.48 R per inch for cedars.  I’m building mine out of pine which > has a 1.35 R per inch rating.  That doesn’t even include the thermal mass > gains in an area with mild climate. > >I could go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. > Kachadorian’s. I wonder where this house will be. > Actually, that is the one I found to be most helpful.  Didn’t think you had > read it. > >> >Sitting on couches would be uncomfortable, laying in your bed would be > >> >uncomfortable, standing too close to a wall or laying on the floor all > >> >would be similarly uncomfortable. > >> The numbers don’t seem to support that. What’s your experience? > >My experience is with a house in Phoenix. > "The center of Hell." :-) > >The AC went out for a couple days, and it took the better part of a week > >for it to feel comfortable again. > Was this an adobe house? Was "the better part" 3 days? > >It took a couple nights for the beds to be as cool as they normally were, > >but I would sweat in a house where the thermostat said it was

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Response:

>> >> >…A bed that gets to 90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week > >> >of a desired temperature to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable > >> >to sleep on again. > >> If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week > >> (168 h), in 70 F air… RC =… = 121 hours. An upper airfilm > >> conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2 would make C = RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 > >> Btu/h-F, eg a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep… Starting from 70 F, > >> after 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) > >> = 71 F. > >After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that > >won’t release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for > >another 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again.

I’m afraid this still makes little sense to me. >…most beds are far less massy than the one you seem to suggest. They are >mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric (the mattress), >so they would tend to cool quickly towards 70 F in early evening. >I wasn’t using my figures.  It was stated that a bed that has risen to a >temperature of 90 degrees will reach 71 degrees after 8 hours in 70 degree >air.

Keep up :-) That was 20-minute drywall, vs your mythical 121-hour bed. >As far as them being only air steel and fabric, yes, the box springs are >like that, but most matresses are filled with fairly tightly packed padding, >usually cotton I believe.  That cotton has a much higher thermal mass than >wood, steel, and fabric of the box springs.

My 60"x80"x8" queen size mattress weighs about 60 pounds. Fully-packed with cotton fiber at 95 lb/ft^3, it would weigh 95×60x80×8/12^3 = 1728 pounds. I’ve never ripped it open to see what’s inside, but I feel steel springs with about 1/2" of padding on top and bottom. The ASHRAE HOF says cotton fiber has a specific heat of 0.319 Btu/lb. The mattress might have 60×0.319 = 19 Btu/F of heat capacitance. If the box springs add another 19, we have C = 38, with G = 1.5×2x60×80/12^2 = 100 Btu/h-F (losing heat from 2 sides), RC = 0.38 h, so this bed would heat or cool to the room air temp in about 2 hours (5 time constants), vs a week. You seem to have trouble admitting when you are wrong, esp to Mr. Speed. > >> >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel > >> >warm for a couple of days depending on the materials… > >> >Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat > >> >might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during > >> >that time… > >Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, > >or anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. > We discussed drywall. Nobody mentioned fiberglass. Wood doesn’t have much > thermal capacity by volume, as you can see from the bed example. Neither > do most insulations. >Actually wood is a fairly good thermal mass.  I don’t have the figures right >here, but I believe it was rated at 2.78.  Whatever it was, it was close to >that.

The ASHRAE HOF says Hem Fir with a 12% moisture content weighs 24.5-31.4 lb/ft^3, with 0.39 Btu/lb-F, so it stores about 11 Btu/F-ft^3. You might say that’s "close to 2.78" :-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices… > Ceilings are better for heat storage because they can be a lot warmer than > the room, especially with a low-e surface. Floors can’t… > >> "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass > >> isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform better. > >> >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in > >> >through the windows. > >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. > >> >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight > >> >with an outside temperature in the teens. > >>How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at > >>dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an > >>11 F night? > Well? IIRC, you claimed to have an EE degree… >I didn’t ask that question…

You made a less-precise claim: "A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight with an outside temperature in the teens." >…and that has nothing to do with electrical engineering.

Of course it does :-) Remember all those Rs and Cs? Hollow concrete blocks (weighing 32 pounds at 0.16 Btu/F-lb, with 128 in^2 of face area) store about 6 Btu/F-ft^2 (think 6 farads), so a 32′x32′x8′ tall block house with 1024 ft^2 of walls has C = 6K Btu/F… 82 ft^2 of windows have 82/4 = 20.5 Btu/h-F of thermal conductance, plus 1024-82 /R20 = 47 Btu/h-F of wall conductance, making RC = C/G = 6K/67.5 = 89 hours, like this, in fixed font:      1/67.5 11 —www——- T   If T(0) = 75, what’s T(16)?             |            — 6K            —             |             – > >> >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all > >> >the windows were blocked off. > Can you be more quantitative?

Possibly not :-) > >You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters.  You > >close the shutters at night or on cloudy days… > Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire of doing that. Automatic > systems seem preferable. >Where the house I’m building will be off the grid, energy efficiency is >something that is quite the necessity.  If I get tired of it, it wouldn’t >take anything to make light actuated motors to open and shut the doors.

People have been trying to do that for 30 years. Oddly enough, they haven’t succeeded. The doors fail to seal well, the system is way too expensive, and so on. Good luck. > >Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made > >of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows… > >On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south > >to allow heat to escape. > A warm air path… How could this possibly work passively? You might make > the slab thicker to store more heat, altho you can’t make it much warmer > than the room temp without cooking the occupants. Massy ceilings are better. >May I suggest a book?  The Passive Solar House by James Kachadorian.

That’s a start. >If you have a massy ceiling, the heat stored in the ceiling is exposed to >the cold outside air when the sun goes down.

We need insulation over the mass. >While it may work to a degree, it isn’t very efficient.

It can be a lot more efficient than what you propose. >…With a solar slab design, you expose the slab to the solar energy >during the day and you insulate it from the cold during the night.

How? Where’s the insulation? Carpeting over foamboard might help… But then you could only heat the slab indirectly, with warm air. > >Windows enough on the south side of the house to allow sun to shine > >directly on the floor in winter…

Big holes in the bucket. > "Direct loss," with miserable performance, compared to indirect gain. >I don’t understand where you get the direct loss from.

It’s a more correct way to say "direct gain" :-) > >An air circulation system to circulate air through the house, including > >the floor and the furnace. > Is this the passive part? :-) >Well, I don’t care how good you build a house, there is no way you can have >everything perfectly the temperature you want it.  I guess I should have >explained that the air circulation would be a method for the air to >efficiently circulate through the house.  The only time it would be active >would be those times the furnace needs to be turned on.  Otherwise, the >circulation happens due to heat difference.

Can you explain exactly how warm air naturally circulates under the floor due to heat difference? :-) > >The walls will be log walls and should have an R rating of about 16-20. > Sounds like they need to be 16-20" thick, on average, vs 12" R48 SIPs. >That depends on the wood you use.  You can get anything from .8 R per inch >for oak to 1.48 R per inch for cedars.  I’m building mine out of pine which >has a 1.35 R per inch rating.  That doesn’t even include the thermal mass >gains in an area with mild climate.

Ah yes. Dynamic R-values :-) > >I could go into many other details, but it would take an entire book. > Kachadorian’s. I wonder where this house will be.

Still wondering. Nick Article 18035 of alt.energy.renewable: Organization: Villanova University > I want to build a solar heated home and after looking around I found the > book by  James Kachadorian "The Passive Solar Home" from Real Goods.

Kachadorian’s book missed the point here and there… > …interesting ideas, like using the cinder blocking channels under > the concrete to distibute heat to the solar slab.

I’ve seen this done with walls as well: stack up hollow blocks aligned so air can flow vertically through the hollows, and make holes in the inside face of the wall at the top and bottom (or use perpendicular U-shaped blocks under a thicker wall, with insulation on both sides) to let room air flow in and out of the wall. This increases the amount of wall surface exposed to room air, which makes the wall a better room-temperature thermal store, by decreasing the internal series resistance of "the heat battery." Also, a wall allows natural airflow, vs a floor, which needs a fan… But this can be further improved: if the masonry can somehow be kept at a higher temperature, it can store more useful space heat, and provide better room temperature control. A 30 pound concrete block that cools from 75 F to 70 F releases about 25 Btu of heat as room air cools from 75 to 70. The same block cooling from 120 to 80 F … read more »

Response:

>  With a solar slab design, you expose the slab to the solar energy > during the day and you insulate it from the cold during the night.  This > way, the majority of the heat dissapation will happen inside the house, and > not to the outside.

If i use a candle to light it, will the heat buildup kill me before the carbon monoxide? .max — was played by maxwell monningh  8-p

Response:

> You seem to have trouble admitting when you are wrong, esp to Mr. Speed.

Yeah, but then so do you |-) >>> You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated >>> shutters.  You close the shutters at night or on cloudy days… >> Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire >> of doing that. Automatic systems seem preferable. > Where the house I’m building will be off the grid, energy efficiency is > something that is quite the necessity.  If I get tired of it, it wouldn’t > take anything to make light actuated motors to open and shut the doors. > People have been trying to do that for 30 > years. Oddly enough, they haven’t succeeded.

Wrong. There’s plenty of automatic doors right thruout the first world, tho not usually used for that. > The doors fail to seal well,

Not vital when you are primarily just using the shutters to give the windows a high R value when you need that for the windows. And its not hard to make them seal well if you need that. > the system is way too expensive,

Depends on whether you are talking about fully commercial systems or stuff you make. It isnt really valid to use the price of the commercial systems when you are making the rest of the house yourself and not counting the labor costs etc. > and so on. Good luck.

Dont need luck, just a bit of capability.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >> >…A bed that gets to 90 degrees throughout will take sometimes a week >> >> >of a desired temperature to loose enough of its heat to be comfortable >> >> >to sleep on again. >> >> If your bed temp falls from 90 to 75 F ("comfortable") over a week >> >> (168 h), in 70 F air… RC =… = 121 hours. An upper airfilm >> >> conductance of 1.5 Btu/h-F-ft^2 would make C = RC/G = 121/1.5 = 80.6 >> >> Btu/h-F, eg a solid wood (hem-fir) bed 95" deep… Starting from 70 F, >> >> after 8 hours in 90 F air, the bed would reach 90-(70-90)e^(-8/121) >> >> = 71 F. >> >After 8 hours you should have been asleep for 4 hours on that bed that >> >won’t release its heat.  Once you wake up and leave your AC off for >> >another 8 hours it’s back up to the same temp again. > I’m afraid this still makes little sense to me.

Okay, I just looked at your numbers again.  You were talking about something different.  In your calculations, and with the bed made of the materials you were talking about, the bed would take 7 days to heat and therefore 7 days to cool. >>…most beds are far less massy than the one you seem to suggest. They are >>mostly air (the box springs), a little steel, and fabric (the mattress), >>so they would tend to cool quickly towards 70 F in early evening. >I wasn’t using my figures.  It was stated that a bed that has risen to a >temperature of 90 degrees will reach 71 degrees after 8 hours in 70 degree >air. > Keep up :-) That was 20-minute drywall, vs your mythical 121-hour bed.

Actually it was your 160 hour bed. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->As far as them being only air steel and fabric, yes, the box springs are >like that, but most matresses are filled with fairly tightly packed padding, >usually cotton I believe.  That cotton has a much higher thermal mass than >wood, steel, and fabric of the box springs. > My 60"x80"x8" queen size mattress weighs about 60 pounds. Fully-packed with > cotton fiber at 95 lb/ft^3, it would weigh 95×60x80×8/12^3 = 1728 pounds. > I’ve never ripped it open to see what’s inside, but I feel steel springs with > about 1/2" of padding on top and bottom. The ASHRAE HOF says cotton fiber has > a specific heat of 0.319 Btu/lb. The mattress might have 60×0.319 = 19 Btu/F > of heat capacitance. If the box springs add another 19, we have C = 38, with > G = 1.5×2x60×80/12^2 = 100 Btu/h-F (losing heat from 2 sides), RC = 0.38 h, > so this bed would heat or cool to the room air temp in about 2 hours (5 time > constants), vs a week. You seem to have trouble admitting when you are wrong, > esp to Mr. Speed.

Well, I haven’t moved a bed for almost 20 years.  Now that I think about it, the bed I was thinking of was an old roll away bed my family had when I was a kid.  It had no metal in it at all.  I’ve just done some looking around at mattress sites and they show cross sections of mattresses sometimes.  It appears they can be made many different ways, from all cotton to air cores, foam and cotton.  It appears the most common mattress is a steel spring core with 3/4 to 2 inches of foam and cotton.  Then there are some made with semirigid foam cores with similar covering.  Others are made with 100% foam of different densities with fabric over the top.  All should beat your figures considerably. As far as numbers go, I tend to be on Nickola Tesla’s side.  It’s much better to examine what happens in the real world than to rely on numbers. How about sticking your bed outside for 2 days in 100+ degree heat and try and sleep on it.  I guarantee you won’t get it to cool down in 3 hours in 70 degree heat.  I’ve had my bed in that kind of heat and I can tell you it didn’t cool down in less than 2 days, much less than 2 hours. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >> >Walls of a home that has been kept at higher temperatures will feel >> >> >warm for a couple of days depending on the materials… >> >> >Walls that is constructed of water might do that. A clever thermostat >> >> >might precompensate, keeping the room comfy with cooler air during >> >> >that time… >> >Try walls constructed of wood.  Walls insulated with recycled news print, >> >or anything else with a higher thermal mass than fiberglass batting. >> We discussed drywall. Nobody mentioned fiberglass. Wood doesn’t have much >> thermal capacity by volume, as you can see from the bed example. Neither >> do most insulations. >Actually wood is a fairly good thermal mass.  I don’t have the figures right >here, but I believe it was rated at 2.78.  Whatever it was, it was close to >that. > The ASHRAE HOF says Hem Fir with a 12% moisture content weighs 24.5-31.4 > lb/ft^3, with 0.39 Btu/lb-F, so it stores about 11 Btu/F-ft^3. You might > say that’s "close to 2.78" :-)

I was wrong.  According to the ASHRA Handbook (American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-conditioning Engineers) the thermal mass Factor of pine is 2.76.  So I was off by a little, but not by near as much as you are. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >> >Concrete floors are also excellent heat storage devices… >> Ceilings are better for heat storage because they can be a lot warmer than >> the room, especially with a low-e surface. Floors can’t… >> >> "Direct loss houses" have mass inside outsulation. Houses with low-mass >> >> isolated sunspaces and hot massy low-e ceilings can perform better. >> >> >Thermal mass is the great storage battery for the heat that enters in >> >> >through the windows. >> >> And windows are huge holes in the heat storage bucket. >> >> >…A passive solar house can loose as little as 10 degrees overnight >> >> >with an outside temperature in the teens. >> >>How much would it loose by dawn if the concrete block walls were 75 F at >> >>dusk, with R20 insulation and 8% of the floorspace as R4 windows, on an >> >>11 F night? >> Well? IIRC, you claimed to have an EE degree… >I didn’t ask that question… > You made a less-precise claim: "A passive solar house can loose as little > as 10 degrees overnight with an outside temperature in the teens." >…and that has nothing to do with electrical engineering. > Of course it does :-) Remember all those Rs and Cs? Hollow concrete blocks > (weighing 32 pounds at 0.16 Btu/F-lb, with 128 in^2 of face area) store > about 6 Btu/F-ft^2 (think 6 farads), so a 32′x32′x8′ tall block house with > 1024 ft^2 of walls has C = 6K Btu/F… 82 ft^2 of windows have 82/4 = 20.5 > Btu/h-F of thermal conductance, plus 1024-82 /R20 = 47 Btu/h-F of wall > conductance, making RC = C/G = 6K/67.5 = 89 hours, like this, in fixed font: >      1/67.5 > 11 —www——- T   If T(0) = 75, what’s T(16)? >             | >            — 6K >            — >             | >             – >> >> >It would take 5-6 days to release all that energy at that rate if all >> >> >the windows were blocked off. >> Can you be more quantitative? > Possibly not :-) >> >You avoid losing heat through the windows with insulated shutters. You >> >close the shutters at night or on cloudy days… >> Historically-speaking, most people quickly tire of doing that. Automatic >> systems seem preferable. >Where the house I’m building will be off the grid, energy efficiency is >something that is quite the necessity.  If I get tired of it, it wouldn’t >take anything to make light actuated motors to open and shut the doors. > People have been trying to do that for 30 years. Oddly enough, they > haven’t succeeded. The doors fail to seal well, the system is way too > expensive, and so on. Good luck.

That’s kind of funny since I can get a garage door opener to seal more than well enough to do what I need, and I’m pretty sure those have been around more than 30 years.  It would amaze me if you couldn’t get a motor that can crush a human being to properly close shutters.  That’s actually too much power anyway.  If I balance the shutters well, I could use relatively low torque stepper motors to do the job and if necessary, which it won’t be, I could use sensors connected to a PIC microcontroller to determine how well the door had closed and compensate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >Okay, the passive solar house I am getting ready to build has floors made >> >of cinder block laid on its side in parallel rows… >> >On top of that is a thin concrete slab with holes on the north and south >> >to allow heat to escape. >> A warm air path… How could this possibly work passively? You might make >> the slab thicker to store more heat, altho you can’t make it much warmer >> than the room temp without cooking the occupants. Massy ceilings are better. >May I suggest a book?  The Passive Solar House by James Kachadorian. > That’s a start. >If you have a massy ceiling, the heat stored in the ceiling is exposed to >the cold outside air when the sun goes down. > We need insulation over the mass.

If you insulate the mass, you don’t get the benefit of the solar heat.  Snow would be a good insulator in the winter, but that isn’t quite beneficial to passive solar heating. >While it may work to a degree, it isn’t very efficient. > It can be a lot more efficient than what you propose.

It very well could be.  If I wanted to spend millions of dollars, I could probably design a home that was much more efficient than the one I propose. It comes down to cost vs. gain. >…With a solar slab design, you expose the slab to the solar energy >during the day and you insulate it from the cold during the night. > How? Where’s the insulation? Carpeting over foamboard might help… > But then you could only heat the slab indirectly, with warm air.

South facing windows with open shutters when the sun is out and closed shutters when the sun is down.  The sun shines directly

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Question:

   >Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower    >cetane is more the opposite of octane. Steve, I don’t get what you are saying. The original octane rating system was based on standard fuels that were a mix of normal heptane and iso-octane, zero being straight heptane and one hundred being straight octane.  The detonation of a fuel would be compared with that of heptane/octane mixes in a standard test engine, and the octane proportion of the matching standard fuel would be the sample fuel’s rating. A similar system was used for diesel fuels, based on cetane as a standard. My handbook gives cetane’s modern name as hexadecane, CH3 (CH2)14 CH3. n-heptane is CH3 (CH2)5 CH3.  Only n-octane is listed, CH3 (CH2)6 CH3.  The iso- version would be same formula, but with the molecule bent or branched. But you can see what the pattern is: the number of CH2 blocks in the middle of the molecule. Tom Willmon Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 – Registered

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>   >cetane is more the opposite of octane. >Steve, I don’t get what you are saying. >[chemistry]

The chemistry of it is less important than the purpose of the ratings. http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/octane%20rating Octane is the resistance to detonation (pinging, knocking, etc), and for gasoline higher octane allows you to advance your ignition timing or increase your compression and get better performance. http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Cetane%20rating/* Cetane number is a measure of how readily the fuel burns. A fuel with a high cetane number starts to burn shortly after it is injected into the cylinder; it has a short ignition delay period. Conversely, a fuel with a low cetane number resists auto-ignition and has a longer ignition delay period. */ So while they both say something about potential engine power, one is a resistance to ignition while another is susceptability to ignition. — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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   >Newsgroups: alt.energy.homepower [Lots of snipping...] Been some discussion of stored fuel oil, filtering, day tanks, brought up: Old memory from diesel work boats on Chesapeake Bay:  we were having trouble from the fuel congealing, got stuck trying to go through the filter, engine would lose power.  I think the problem was caused by some organism in the fuel.  We hired an outfit to pump the tanks out and do some sort of processing on the fuel (don’t know what, I was doing something else).  I wonder if this happens on shore? Tom Willmon Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 – Registered

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cetane is more the opposite of octane. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Caution: I did a check with the oil companies to see if it was practical to > use #2 heating oil in a diesel generator instead of #2 diesel fuel. The most > detailed answer that I got showed that you need to check your local > supplier. The reason is that heating oil can be any old crap that will burn > in a furnace, the specifications are rather loose. Diesel oil has to meet a > narrow range of specifications so that it will work without damaging the > engine. One of these specifications is the cetane rating, similar to octane > rating in gasoline. The oil company said that in some areas they ship diesel > oil as furnace fuel. In other areas it is a totally different product, > especially where there is a large market for furnace oil, they will > formulate a separate batch (of whatever they have available) for furnaces. > They said engines using this stuff will suffer from early wear and clogging > injectors.

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Caution: I did a check with the oil companies to see if it was practical to use #2 heating oil in a diesel generator instead of #2 diesel fuel. The most detailed answer that I got showed that you need to check your local supplier. The reason is that heating oil can be any old crap that will burn in a furnace, the specifications are rather loose. Diesel oil has to meet a narrow range of specifications so that it will work without damaging the engine. One of these specifications is the cetane rating, similar to octane rating in gasoline. The oil company said that in some areas they ship diesel oil as furnace fuel. In other areas it is a totally different product, especially where there is a large market for furnace oil, they will formulate a separate batch (of whatever they have available) for furnaces. They said engines using this stuff will suffer from early wear and clogging injectors.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> If your going to be using the fuel tank then you will want what is called >a >> day tank. >Just to let you know, old submarine diesel setups used bulk storage and ‘day >tanks’ too. > Well, the bulk storage is a 6000 gallon tank, which gets tranferred to > the (inside) pair of 275-gallon tanks fo the furnaces, which are a > couple of feet from where the generator will probably be placed. > Can’t I plumb the heating oil tank directly to the generator and avoid > the wintertime gelling and other problems from having Yet Another Fuel > Tank? > [Are there electrical fuel/oil/block warmers to ensure the engine > starts when the power fails in the coldest parts of the winter?] > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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>> If your going to be using the fuel tank then you will want what is called >a > day tank. >Just to let you know, old submarine diesel setups used bulk storage and ‘day >tanks’ too.

Well, the bulk storage is a 6000 gallon tank, which gets tranferred to the (inside) pair of 275-gallon tanks fo the furnaces, which are a couple of feet from where the generator will probably be placed. Can’t I plumb the heating oil tank directly to the generator and avoid the wintertime gelling and other problems from having Yet Another Fuel Tank? [Are there electrical fuel/oil/block warmers to ensure the engine starts when the power fails in the coldest parts of the winter?] — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> If your going to be using the fuel tank then you will want what is called >a >> day tank. >Just to let you know, old submarine diesel setups used bulk storage and ‘day >tanks’ too. > Well, the bulk storage is a 6000 gallon tank, which gets tranferred to > the (inside) pair of 275-gallon tanks fo the furnaces, which are a > couple of feet from where the generator will probably be placed. > Can’t I plumb the heating oil tank directly to the generator and avoid > the wintertime gelling and other problems from having Yet Another Fuel > Tank? > [Are there electrical fuel/oil/block warmers to ensure the engine > starts when the power fails in the coldest parts of the winter?]

The old ‘day tank’ concept was because the ‘bulk storage’ wasn’t clean enough fuel (and free of water) for burning in the engine directly.  But if your ‘bulk storage’ is like most home tanks, it *is* clean enough right from there.  Don’t see why you couldn’t run directly from it.  Although a large underground tank (or whatever) might need an extra filter assembly to catch any rust/dirt that might get picked up from the bottom of the tank. We have some diesel gen sets at work that run directly from a 30-day supply storage tank without an intervening day tank.  Mind you, this tank is above ground and we pump it out every two years for cleaning/inspection. daestrom

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW > range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better > than others?  Are there things I should look out for? > I’m planning on running this off heating oil from a basement tank, but > the generator will be on a pad outside the basement, are there fuel > line/pump heaters that’ll keep the fuel that’s outside from gelling? > Quiet is good, weekly tests are a must, and a failure indication for > feeding into an alarm panel is a definate plus! > I’m looking for one for the Ipswich/Hamilton, MA area, so any good > dealers who do installs and have 24-hour repair services available in > that region would be appreciated. > Thanks! > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com > The comment on the rpms is right on.  I would acquire a 1800 rpm over 3600 > rpm. > I would want a 4 pole over a 3 pole that way you switch the neutral as well. > This is not a requirement but it is easier to make sensitive electronics > behave. A 3 pole is standard, but I have seen a lot of installers get them > installed incorrectly the first time. > I would look for a good installer. Like an airconditioner the equipment is > only 50% of the issue. > If your going to be using the fuel tank then you will want what is called a > day tank.  Usually big enough to run the unit for 3-4 hours. (God only knows > why it is called a day tank). Then use a small transfer pump to move the > fuel to the day tank. In my experience there are two pipes to run between > the tanks.

Just to let you know, old submarine diesel setups used bulk storage and ‘day tanks’ too.  The bulk storage was ballasted with sea-water.  As the fuel oil was removed, sea-water allowed in underneath it to keep the weight/list/trim of the ship about right (of course, sea-water is heavier than fuel oil, so it wasn’t a perfect match). So when transferring fuel from the bulk storage to the ‘day tank’, it had to go through a filter/purifier to remove any rust, paint flakes or other debris that got in it.  The fuel in the day tank was clean and water free for running the engine.  But this tank was much smaller so its weight changing up/down didn’t make much difference to trim.  The size of the smaller tank really did last about one day (24 hours) of running hence the name.  Bulk storage tanks would last an entire cruise and then some (cruising range of a ‘Gato’ class fleet boat 11,000 nautical miles). daestrom

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW > range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better > than others?  Are there things I should look out for? > I did a lot of looking around last fall and ended up feeling that > Northern Lights looked like the best option. Since they are largely > marine (but do make land-based units) you are on the correct side of the > state (they have a warehouse in Andover). I have not broken the piggy > bank yet, but that is still the direction I’m leaning when I do (for an > off-grid prime-power unit). The 10KW is an 1800 RPM. > Fischer Panda’s were also mentioned; they are somewhat quieter, but are > also 3600 RPM units, and something like twice the price. > Addiational soundproofing can be built into the enclosure.

I’ll second the Northern Lights recommendation.  I have 2 of the 20Kw units that both were rebuilt at 40,000 hours and now have an additional 6000 hours each.  They are good runners and strong on mass.  Fair for fuel consumption per KWh.  I expect to get another 30,000 out of them Bruce in alaska —

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW > range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better > than others?  Are there things I should look out for? > I’m planning on running this off heating oil from a basement tank, but > the generator will be on a pad outside the basement, are there fuel > line/pump heaters that’ll keep the fuel that’s outside from gelling? > Quiet is good, weekly tests are a must, and a failure indication for > feeding into an alarm panel is a definate plus! > I’m looking for one for the Ipswich/Hamilton, MA area, so any good > dealers who do installs and have 24-hour repair services available in > that region would be appreciated. > Thanks! > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

The comment on the rpms is right on.  I would acquire a 1800 rpm over 3600 rpm. I would want a 4 pole over a 3 pole that way you switch the neutral as well. This is not a requirement but it is easier to make sensitive electronics behave. A 3 pole is standard, but I have seen a lot of installers get them installed incorrectly the first time. I would look for a good installer. Like an airconditioner the equipment is only 50% of the issue. If your going to be using the fuel tank then you will want what is called a day tank.  Usually big enough to run the unit for 3-4 hours. (God only knows why it is called a day tank). Then use a small transfer pump to move the fuel to the day tank. In my experience there are two pipes to run between the tanks. Just like your car, one to feed the other for a return. This helps the transfer pump run at its best with out worries. You might try Kohler Power Systems web page for some info. I have installed several of their units over the years.  NOT CHEAP… For quiet consider what is called a critical silencer, a bigger muffler. Brings down the sound levels a lot. As for alarms and indication I am pretty sure you will get all that you need or want. CH makes a IQ transfer that is pretty cool. Available communication gives you allot of info that can be collected by a computer. I have installed ~30-40 of these over the years. I am sure other manufactures make similar equipment. This is what I am familiar with. Good luck hope all goes well.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW > range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better > than others?  Are there things I should look out for? > I did a lot of looking around last fall and ended up feeling that > Northern Lights looked like the best option. Since they are largely > marine (but do make land-based units) you are on the correct side of the > state (they have a warehouse in Andover). I have not broken the piggy > bank yet, but that is still the direction I’m leaning when I do (for an > off-grid prime-power unit). The 10KW is an 1800 RPM. > Fischer Panda’s were also mentioned; they are somewhat quieter, but are > also 3600 RPM units, and something like twice the price. > Addiational soundproofing can be built into the enclosure. > — > Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by

Can’t really advise on make, but avoid 3600 rpm units.. go for 1800 4 pole gennys and not Asian either.. $0.02

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW >range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better >than others?  Are there things I should look out for? >I’m planning on running this off heating oil from a basement tank, but >the generator will be on a pad outside the basement, are there fuel >line/pump heaters that’ll keep the fuel that’s outside from gelling? >Quiet is good, weekly tests are a must, and a failure indication for >feeding into an alarm panel is a definate plus! >I’m looking for one for the Ipswich/Hamilton, MA area, so any good >dealers who do installs and have 24-hour repair services available in >that region would be appreciated. >Thanks!

I don’t know if these folk have 24 hour service.  But I used them for my generator up here in Perry, ME, and they’ve been good and responsive, in spite of the distance: Buxton Service, Inc Buxton, Craig Full Name: Craig Buxton Job Title: Sales Company: Buxton Service, Inc 514 Great Rd Acton, MA  01720 Bus: (978) 263-2543 Bus 2: (800) 328-8559 Bus Fax: (978) 263-2501 Business Home Page: http://www.buxtongenerators.com — ron  (off the grid in Downeast Maine)

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> I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW > range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better > than others?  Are there things I should look out for?

I did a lot of looking around last fall and ended up feeling that Northern Lights looked like the best option. Since they are largely marine (but do make land-based units) you are on the correct side of the state (they have a warehouse in Andover). I have not broken the piggy bank yet, but that is still the direction I’m leaning when I do (for an off-grid prime-power unit). The 10KW is an 1800 RPM. Fischer Panda’s were also mentioned; they are somewhat quieter, but are also 3600 RPM units, and something like twice the price. Addiational soundproofing can be built into the enclosure. — Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by

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I’m looking for reccomendations for a diesel generator in the 10KW range with a 200A automatic transfer switch.  Are any brands better than others?  Are there things I should look out for? I’m planning on running this off heating oil from a basement tank, but the generator will be on a pad outside the basement, are there fuel line/pump heaters that’ll keep the fuel that’s outside from gelling? Quiet is good, weekly tests are a must, and a failure indication for feeding into an alarm panel is a definate plus! I’m looking for one for the Ipswich/Hamilton, MA area, so any good dealers who do installs and have 24-hour repair services available in that region would be appreciated. Thanks! — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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Question:

Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane?

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>Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane?

There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the last 5 years… — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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>Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of

fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? > There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled > residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the > last 5 years…

heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" for the past fifty years or so. Ray

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? > There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled > residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the > last 5 years… >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" for >the past fifty years or so. >Ray

The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and when it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of all perpetual motion machinery. :)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? >> There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled >> residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the >> last 5 years… >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" for >the past fifty years or so. >Ray > The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and when > it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of > all perpetual motion machinery.

In a way ,you can call betavoltaic batteries and xray transmutation…..fussion since both end up with radioactive enert material from nuke waste. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> :)

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That’s an expensive way to make electric. Higher than grid cost. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

> Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of fuel

cells for residential use that can run on propane?

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? >> There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled >> residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the >> last 5 years… >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" for >the past fifty years or so. >Ray > The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and when > it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of > all perpetual motion machinery. > :)

Thiotimoline?

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers of > >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? > >> There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising NG-fueled > >> residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least the > >> last 5 years… > >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" for > >the past fifty years or so. > >Ray > The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and when > it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of > all perpetual motion machinery. > In a way ,you can call betavoltaic batteries and xray > transmutation…..fussion since > both end up with radioactive enert material from nuke waste. > :)

If all you want is fusion, you can always make a Farnsworth Fusor.  A few people have done that in their basements, garages, or mad-scientist labs.  It’s proven technology that will fuse deuterium and produce neutrons. Unfortunately, you feed a whole lot more power into the thing than you’ll ever get out. Ray

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> That’s an expensive way to make electric. Higher than grid cost.

If you can feed it with propane, you can probably also feed it with natural gas.  Methane can be made with a digester and a bunch of horse poop. Also, it will be very useful in the winter.  Instead of thinking of it as a 50% efficient electricity generator, think of it as a 100% efficient furnace [1] that also provides you with lots of electricity. Ray Drouillard [1] A fuel cell produces lots of heat.  In the winter, this can be used to heat the house.  If you use a fuel cell to power an electric heating system, you have a 100% efficient furnace (if you don’t dump the waste heat outside).  Most of the electricity used for other things (lighting, for instance) will eventually end up heating the house. Also, since the things run at something like 800 degrees, the output heat can be used to fire something like a steam engine or sterling engine.  This will allow you to extract some of the waste heat, bringing the overall efficiency up even more.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers >of > > >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? > > >> There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising >NG-fueled > > >> residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least >the > > >> last 5 years… > > >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" >for > > >the past fifty years or so. > > >Ray > > The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and >when > > it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of > > all perpetual motion machinery. > In a way ,you can call betavoltaic batteries and xray > transmutation…..fussion since > both end up with radioactive enert material from nuke waste. > > :) >If all you want is fusion, you can always make a Farnsworth Fusor.  A >few people have done that in their basements, garages, or mad-scientist >labs.  It’s proven technology that will fuse deuterium and produce >neutrons. >Unfortunately, you feed a whole lot more power into the thing than >you’ll ever get out. >Ray

You are looking at this from the wrong perspective… sometimes we need a vacuum source… :)

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > >> >Can someone point me to references on the internet for suppliers > of > > >fuel cells for residential use that can run on propane? > > >> There aren’t any yet.  PlugPower and others keep promising > NG-fueled > > >> residential fuel cells, but it’s been "next year" for at least > the > > >> last 5 years… > > >heh.  Sort of like fusion, eh?  It’s been "twenty years from now" > for > > >the past fifty years or so. > > >Ray > > The time warp caused by when something is supposed to happen and > when > > it really does (if it ever does), is well known to be the source of > > all perpetual motion machinery. > In a way ,you can call betavoltaic batteries and xray > transmutation…..fussion since > both end up with radioactive enert material from nuke waste. > > :) > If all you want is fusion, you can always make a Farnsworth Fusor.  A > few people have done that in their basements, garages, or mad-scientist > labs.  It’s proven technology that will fuse deuterium and produce > neutrons. > Unfortunately, you feed a whole lot more power into the thing than > you’ll ever get out. > Ray

That is the reason nuclear batteries are based on either thermonuke or beta voltaic…… a glorified tank circuit that operates off the resonant freg of the element… be it deuterium like the ones the military uses in laptops,GPS,and other potable electronic item. Or radium or thorium or almost any other radioactive material. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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propane and natural gas are very different animals. big difference in btu content. There are natural gas fuel cells which could run on biogas. A heat pump would be a better investment. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> That’s an expensive way to make electric. Higher than grid cost. > If you can feed it with propane, you can probably also feed it with > natural gas.  Methane can be made with a digester and a bunch of horse > poop. > Also, it will be very useful in the winter.  Instead of thinking of it > as a 50% efficient electricity generator, think of it as a 100% > efficient furnace [1] that also provides you with lots of electricity. > Ray Drouillard > [1] > A fuel cell produces lots of heat.  In the winter, this can be used to > heat the house.  If you use a fuel cell to power an electric heating > system, you have a 100% efficient furnace (if you don’t dump the waste > heat outside).  Most of the electricity used for other things (lighting, > for instance) will eventually end up heating the house. > Also, since the things run at something like 800 degrees, the output > heat can be used to fire something like a steam engine or sterling > engine.  This will allow you to extract some of the waste heat, bringing > the overall efficiency up even more.

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>propane and natural gas are very different animals. big difference in btu

Well, yes, but since fuel cells run on hydrogen, it’s not the BTUs that count, as you aren’t ‘burning’ the feestock.  It’s the reformer that’s important.  Methane is CH4, and Propane is C3H8.  But that’s per molecule of the input, and doesn’t tell you "hydrogen atoms per {pound, gallon, CCF}" or the more interesting "hydrogen atoms per dollar".  And then you need a reformer that has some unknown efficiency, lifetime (and thus cost), to get the end result, which is "is the hydrogen from a propane reformer more expensive than the hydrogen from a methane reformer"? Actually, NG isn’t entirely methane, and the propane you get from the propane dealer isn’t entirely propane (it may have significant amounts of butane, C4H10, in it during the summer months), and it’s the impurities that poison the fuel cell stack, so the purity of the hydrogen output of the reformer will effect the operation cost of the fuel cell, which is another rathole, and another layer of complexity to add to your calculation. Fortunately(?), no-one has gotten the bugs out of fuel cells or their reformers to the point where we can drop them into our houses and even ask the question "what does it cost to generate electricity using my residential fuel cell?". Don’t get me wrong, if a propane or NG fuel cell with a reasonable lifetime and operations costs (and a hot water loop for (pre)heating domestic hot water) were available, I’d be all over it, and probably buy one of each, but they aren’t, so I can’t… — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->propane and natural gas are very different animals. big difference in btu > Well, yes, but since fuel cells run on hydrogen, it’s not the BTUs > that count, as you aren’t ‘burning’ the feestock.  It’s the reformer > that’s important.  Methane is CH4, and Propane is C3H8.  But that’s > per molecule of the input, and doesn’t tell you "hydrogen atoms per > {pound, gallon, CCF}" or the more interesting "hydrogen atoms per > dollar".  And then you need a reformer that has some unknown > efficiency, lifetime (and thus cost), to get the end result, which is > "is the hydrogen from a propane reformer more expensive than the > hydrogen from a methane reformer"? > Actually, NG isn’t entirely methane, and the propane you get from the > propane dealer isn’t entirely propane (it may have significant amounts > of butane, C4H10, in it during the summer months), and it’s the > impurities that poison the fuel cell stack, so the purity of the > hydrogen output of the reformer will effect the operation cost of the > fuel cell, which is another rathole, and another layer of complexity > to add to your calculation. > Fortunately(?), no-one has gotten the bugs out of fuel cells or their > reformers to the point where we can drop them into our houses and even > ask the question "what does it cost to generate electricity using my > residential fuel cell?". > Don’t get me wrong, if a propane or NG fuel cell with a reasonable > lifetime and operations costs (and a hot water loop for (pre)heating > domestic hot water) were available, I’d be all over it, and probably > buy one of each, but they aren’t, so I can’t… > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

I don’t believe the original post was asking about a standard hydrogen fuel cell front-ended by a reformer.  There are fuel cells that accept hydrocarbons as fuel, and produce carbon dioxide and water vapor. Ray Drouillard

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>I don’t believe the original post was asking about a standard hydrogen >fuel cell front-ended by a reformer.  There are fuel cells that accept >hydrocarbons as fuel, and produce carbon dioxide and water vapor.

In multi-kilowatt sizes for residential use?  Can you point me at any? — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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>>I don’t believe the original post was asking about a standard hydrogen >fuel cell front-ended by a reformer.  There are fuel cells that accept >hydrocarbons as fuel, and produce carbon dioxide and water vapor. >In multi-kilowatt sizes for residential use?  Can you point me at any?

Fuel cells are not economically viable for primary residential power at this point in time.  PERIOD. My company is developing compact long-outage UPS solutions with PEM fuel cells.  This is a present-day economically viable application.  I don’t know many others. John Fisher Systems Engineer ReliOn Inc. www.relion-inc.com ciao, JF john fisher systems engineer avista labs, soon to be Relion Inc. These expressions are my own, blah blah blah

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I don’t believe the original post was asking about a standard hydrogen >>fuel cell front-ended by a reformer.  There are fuel cells that accept >>hydrocarbons as fuel, and produce carbon dioxide and water vapor. >In multi-kilowatt sizes for residential use?  Can you point me at any? > Fuel cells are not economically viable for primary residential power > at this point in time.  PERIOD. > My company is developing compact long-outage UPS solutions with PEM > fuel cells.  This is a present-day economically viable application.  I > don’t know many others.

Do some googling and you’ll find that some people are coming close.  I lost my bookmarks, but I recall reading about some research that was done by a major university.  They have almost achieved a low enough cost to make it feasible to use fuel cells where you would normally use a substation. My own interest is in using a digester to get methane, then run my house and business on it.  If it allows me to eventually move to a place where grid power isn’t available, so much the better. Ray Drouillard

Response:

>Do some googling and you’ll find that some people are coming close.

You’ll find that some people have been claiming they are "close" for over five years now. >done by a major university.  They have almost achieved a low enough cost >to make it feasible to use fuel cells where you would normally use a >substation.

Universities don’t produce products, companies produce products.  It’s a long hard road from "university" and "almost" to the OPs original request for  a residential fuel cell he can buy today. — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

To answer the original question; Accumentrics fron Boston? is about ready to install a propane fuel cell in Arizona. They do not need a reformer so they may actually have a viable product. We have been to their facility and have verified that they are very real. They are also using our inverters to produce AC from the DC. We are very skeptical regarding hydrogen fuel cells, but this one is different! Check them out. Robin Gudgel OutBack Power Systems Inc.

Response:

>Accumentrics fron Boston? is about ready to install a propane fuel >cell in Arizona.

Interesting, even if their "small" unit is 250KW, they are still in field trials, and they run at 1200 degrees F.  Thanks for the heads-up! — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

>>Accumentrics fron Boston? is about ready to install a propane fuel >cell in Arizona. >Interesting, even if their "small" unit is 250KW, they are still in >field trials, and they run at 1200 degrees F.  Thanks for the >heads-up!

Don’t mind me, I just discovered that a google search for accumentrics propane fuel cell returns a small number of hits from one of their competitors, who mentions them in their SEC filings.  Anyone know where one could stalk Accumentrics on the WWWeb? [Even more interesting, if further in the future, are hints of diesel-fueled direct fuel cells.  That would really be a killer app for off-grid!] — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

oooohhh, biodiesel fueled fuel cells. If they are available for under $10 / watt I’ll be salivating. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Accumentrics fron Boston? is about ready to install a propane fuel >>cell in Arizona. >Interesting, even if their "small" unit is 250KW, they are still in >field trials, and they run at 1200 degrees F.  Thanks for the >heads-up! > Don’t mind me, I just discovered that a google search for > accumentrics propane fuel cell > returns a small number of hits from one of their competitors, who > mentions them in their SEC filings.  Anyone know where one could stalk > Accumentrics on the WWWeb? > [Even more interesting, if further in the future, are hints of > diesel-fueled direct fuel cells.  That would really be a killer app > for off-grid!] > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

>Accumentrics fron Boston? is about ready to install a propane fuel >cell in Arizona. > Interesting, even if their "small" unit is 250KW, they are still in > field trials, and they run at 1200 degrees F.  Thanks for the > heads-up!

The high temperature is the rub.  It’s hard to design a system that’ll put up with that kind of abuse.  The 800 degree design uses stainless steel.  Anything hotter than that requires more exotic materials. Ray

Response:

Question:

> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source.

So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. Best, Dan. — http://lakeweb.net http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a liquid fuel in any significant quantities. Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states:   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s use reduce atmospheric pollution. A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro and others (1997) concludes:   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of it.   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy we put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the energy. Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have for years, so why even bring it up? — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro > and others (1997) concludes: >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of > it. >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then.

As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the future of renewable energy, but part of the picture.

Response:

Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither have those who like to quote him. Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let so much BS be spread so far. Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy we > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the energy. > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have > for years, so why even bring it up? > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" > in > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > extent > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > erosion > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery > is > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > converted > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being > used > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > percent > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to > make > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > just > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes > and > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of > the > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > ethanol > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > it’s > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro > and others (1997) concludes: >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use > of > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction > of > it. >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is > a > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t > a > > fuel > > > > source. > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > Best, Dan. > > > — > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep spouting lies untill someone believe it? Biomass is a farce.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

>>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies.

Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and processing that is actually required. But crop fuels are something else. > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture.

These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a required energy. Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area this large? Best, Dan. — http://lakeweb.net http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far.

Brazil’s near bankruptcy in their attempt to switch to an ethanol economy is particularly illustrative. Http://www.tinaja.com/glib/energfun.pdf — Many thanks, Don Lancaster Synergetics   3860 West First Street  Box 809  Thatcher, AZ 85552 Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. > Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have > the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% > solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the > long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and > processing that is actually required. > But crop fuels are something else. > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture. > These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel > is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a > required energy. > Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy > source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an > area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder > about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what > would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area > this large? > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Boimass for fuel is not new ……the industrial revoltution would have never happened without biomass And the people  didn’t die out either. Though many confuse bad land management with crop growth….. I can assure you that with forestry management we have more trees now than in the past here in the Pineywoods. But then the entire country is up 10-15% over 100 years ago…..inspite of land clearing for cities and row crops. adjustment for fuel crops is the banning of oversea food shipments.To open up pasture and feilds to trees or whatever the energy crop is. You can look at Haiti and then Dominion Republic next door and see the difference land mangement makes. then none of your examples were. On algae the cheapest method seems to be like our Texas rice farmers.Yes, cows are not the only crop,though people do give funny looks about imagined ideas about Texas farming. Another note on land management …..there are some African countries that few in the Black Cautus want to remember. Because political influence has turned a breadbasket area into a food disaster for political gain of the leaders in power. So land area is not the only issue influencing crop yeild…. Besides if that land area is all that important …..maybe we can go the route of some the extreme illegal Mexicans.Assign a land value to each illegal and reprossess that many acres of Mexico.Wiith bean counters at the border gates….might own all of Central and South America by the end of the decade given the present political climate on both sides of the asile.   .

Response:

nospam is a known liar, and a fool besides. Been working corn and dairy for years, in addition to my IT work. I work for no one but myself. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. > Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. > Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. > Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far. > Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try > disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you. > Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy > we > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the > energy. > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have > for years, so why even bring it up? > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it > will > > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not > replace > > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy > "crisis" > in > > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > extent > > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > erosion > > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy > recovery > is > > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to > a > > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > converted > > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being > used > > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. > corn > > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. > Ethanol > > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > percent > > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to > make > > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > just > > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes > and > > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, > ethanol > > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of > the > > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs > (gasoline > > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > ethanol > > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > it’s > > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by > Giampietro > > and others (1997) concludes: > >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current > use > of > > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction > of > > it. > >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from > > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there > is > a > > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides > isn’t > a > > > fuel > > > > > source. > > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > > Best, Dan. > > > > — > > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far. > Brazil’s near bankruptcy in their attempt to switch to an ethanol > economy is particularly illustrative. > Http://www.tinaja.com/glib/energfun.pdf > — > Many thanks, > Don Lancaster > Synergetics   3860 West First Street  Box 809  Thatcher, AZ 85552 > Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

You lying sack of bird droppings. I used to farm for a living. Now I make my money in IT, and I farm for research and as a plan B. Everything I quote I have personally researched and proven, or quote agencies who have. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep > spouting lies untill someone believe it? > Biomass is a farce. > Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy > put > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

>Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put >in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process.

Fertilisers (nitrogen) are the biggest energy input to many crops. For a better net gain, a nitrogen fixing crop should be chosen.

Response:

Arnold, you may have missed the point.  "Crop fuels" are probably things like ethanol, with the primary function being as a fuel.  Wood chips and sawdust are secondary products of a process whose chief application is construction. For any process where the primary product makes money, any secondary product, by default, will add to profitability unless you have to pay to have it hauled off. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there > is a truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like >> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t >> a fuel source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 > times the energy we put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives > us back 4 times the energy. Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters > elimanate NOx as an issue, and have for years, so why even bring it > up?

He brings it up because he knows that the HUGE volume of fuel you would have to produce to displace oil consumption makes this idea a loser.  For niche markets, it probably will contribute.  However, it is not the "savior" that many believe.

Response:

Indeed. we rotate crops for that reason. know any good nitrogen fixing oil crops? — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put >in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > Fertilisers (nitrogen) are the biggest energy input to many crops. > For a better net gain, a nitrogen fixing crop should be chosen.

Response:

> Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline > supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry.

(cut) But it doesn’t make up 10% of the gasoline supply.  I should know.  I have 6 years of gasoline blending experience with Shell Oil.  In that 6 years, Shell Oil in Deer Park blended one and only one ethanol blend.  This means that a substantial portion of the Gulf Coast region has no ethanol in its gasoline.  I suspect that only regions with a strong ADM lobby have this stuff. Ethanol is real trouble when it comes to meeting the modern "environmental" specifications on gasoline, for reasons that I don’t need to go into.  In addition, there probably isn’t enough spare farm land in the U.S. to produce the ethanol required to blend all gasoline with ethanol.  In addition to that, ethanol will act as a cosolvent for gasoline components, and speed the migration of gasoline components through the water table where ever it leaks. Need I go on?

Response:

I’d rather have ethanol in my gas than MTBE. Fortunately NY is a progressive state in that regard. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline > supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry. > (cut) > But it doesn’t make up 10% of the gasoline supply.  I should know.  I have 6 > years of gasoline blending experience with Shell Oil.  In that 6 years, > Shell Oil in Deer Park blended one and only one ethanol blend.  This means > that a substantial portion of the Gulf Coast region has no ethanol in its > gasoline.  I suspect that only regions with a strong ADM lobby have this > stuff. > Ethanol is real trouble when it comes to meeting the modern "environmental" > specifications on gasoline, for reasons that I don’t need to go into.  In > addition, there probably isn’t enough spare farm land in the U.S. to produce > the ethanol required to blend all gasoline with ethanol.  In addition to > that, ethanol will act as a cosolvent for gasoline components, and speed the > migration of gasoline components through the water table where ever it > leaks. > Need I go on?

Response:

posted: >Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will >never replace oil in any significant quantities.

I don’t think anyone is suggesting this. >Biomass will not replace >oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in >oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause.

Howsabout "Biomass can replace SOME oil" ? >Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent >that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion >in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of >Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is >low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a >liquid fuel in any significant quantities.

What about waste from silviculture? >Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted >to alcohol.

Not good as corn requires massive energy input in the form of nitrogen ferts. Try a legume of other nitrogen fixer. >In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It >takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, >1998).

Yep, see above. >Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used >as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn >production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol >has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent >mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make >up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as >advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states:

So, grow an oil crop that fixes its own nitrogen. Use the waste for cattle feed of fish feed or whatever. >  Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just >as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and >alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air >pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol >production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems.

Then don’t use it. Vegertable oils are much better and safer. >With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the >fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline >and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol >production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s >use reduce atmospheric pollution.

So what about making it from silviculture waste that is fertilised with sewage waste? More ways of killing a cat… But condeming something coz it can’t replace everything is as silly as greenies whinging that vitamin A enhanced rice is evil soz it does not supply ALL the dietary needs of this vitamin. >A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro >and others (1997) concludes: >  Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of >oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of >it.

Seven or eight year old info. When you factor in present and potential GM plants….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of >Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Spence, Give it up. Cropfuels will never work. ADM is the only reason that it is still alive today. Their contributions to congress buys the midwest farm vote. Personally I don’t care if you try to drink the stuff. Lot’s of moonshiners did. I ask for proof, you have replied with none. From that point I question your integrity. I am still waiting for proof that you can replace gasoline with ethanol. As we see from this post, ADM has bought your vote. Let me quess, you live in Iowa. Give up ethanol. We found out 25 years ago here in OK it’s a lost cause. Makes a good drinkin whiskey if you distill right, but useless as fuel. It’s use in gasoline is probably exacerbating the depletion of fossil fuels. Now, if you want use wood chips from a sawmill to heat a greenhouse, or make wood pellets for pellet fired stoves, be my guest, that’s a decent plan to use trash, but it will never replace fossil fuels. Don’t WASTE our valuable cropland growing corn. Once you lose fossil fueled fertilizers your yeild per acre will likely drop from the current 120-130 bushels back to 20-30 bushels. All crop yields will fall without those fertilizers, and we are going to need ALL the cropland we can find to produce food. Don’t waste fossil fuels and valuable crop land to make and energy wasting product such as ethanol. Hmm, a corn farmer, a dairyman, and Information Technology to boot, quite a rounded individual I would say. I wonder who the real liar is?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> nospam is a known liar, and a fool besides. Been working corn and dairy for > years, in addition to my IT work. I work for no one but myself. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. > Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. > Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. > Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can > let > so much BS be spread so far. > Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try > disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you. > > Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither > > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the > energy > we > > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the > energy. > > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and > have > > for years, so why even bring it up? > > — > > Steve Spence > > Renewable energy and sustainable living > > http://www.green-trust.org > > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > > powered diesels at > > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it > will > > > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not > replace > > > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy > "crisis" > > in > > > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would > cause. > > > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > > extent > > > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > > erosion > > > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > > > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy > recovery > > is > > > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it > to > a > > > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > > > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > > converted > > > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. > It > > > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it > (Pimentel, > > > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from > being > > used > > > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. > corn > > > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. > Ethanol > > > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > > percent > > > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased > to > > make > > > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > > > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > > >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > > just > > > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds > aldehydes > > and > > > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > > > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, > ethanol > > > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > > > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost > of > > the > > > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs > (gasoline > > > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > > ethanol > > > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > > it’s > > > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > > > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by > Giampietro > > > and others (1997) concludes: > > >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current > use > > of > > > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant > fraction > > of > > > it. > > >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > > > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and > sawdust > > from > > > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And > there > is > > a > > > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like > stated. > > > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides > isn’t > > a > > > > fuel > > > > > > source. > > > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > > then. > > > > > Best, Dan. > > > > > — > > > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Oooh, Maybe you can use those to eat while you raise your corn to make fuel for autos. A farmer cum IT man. Maybe you ought to go back to plan A.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You lying sack of bird droppings. > I used to farm for a living. Now I make my money in IT, and I farm for > research and as a plan B. Everything I quote I have personally researched > and proven, or quote agencies who have. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep > spouting lies untill someone believe it? > Biomass is a farce. > > Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy > put > > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > > — > > Steve Spence > > Renewable energy and sustainable living > > http://www.green-trust.org > > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > > powered diesels at > > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t > a > > fuel > > > > source. > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > Best, Dan. > > > — > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Arnold, Great idea, let the illegals in and take their land. It’s kinda funny. But don’t forget, for each new illegal coming into the US, it’s just another mouth that will have to be fed when crunch time comes. If we are throwing out oddball ideas. I have a better idea. Let’s leave them down there and let them try to grow cropfuels. See how long that lasts, and if they can’t get the job done, send the army down and persuade them to continue.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. > Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have > the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% > solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the > long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and > processing that is actually required. > But crop fuels are something else. > > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food > waste > > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture. > These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel > is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a > required energy. > Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy > source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an > area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder > about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what > would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area > this large? > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com > Boimass for fuel is not new ……the industrial revoltution would have > never happened without biomass > And the people  didn’t die out either. > Though many confuse bad land management with crop growth….. > I can assure you that with forestry management we have more trees now than > in the past here in the Pineywoods. > But then the entire country is up 10-15% over 100 years ago…..inspite of > land clearing for cities and row crops. one > adjustment for fuel crops is the banning > of oversea food shipments.To open up pasture and feilds to trees or whatever > the energy crop is. > You can look at Haiti and then Dominion Republic next door and see the > difference land mangement makes. > then none of your examples were. > On algae the cheapest method seems to be like our Texas rice farmers.Yes, > cows are not the only crop,though people > do give funny looks about imagined ideas about Texas farming. > Another note on land management …..there are some African countries that > few in the Black Cautus want to remember. > Because political influence has turned a breadbasket area into a food > disaster for political gain of the leaders in power. > So land area is not the only issue influencing crop yeild…. > Besides if that land area is all that important …..maybe we can go the > route of some the extreme illegal Mexicans.Assign > a land value to each illegal and reprossess that many acres of Mexico.Wiith > bean counters at the border gates….might own all of > Central and South America by the end of the decade given the present > political climate on both sides of the asile.   .

Response:

> posted: >Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will >never replace oil in any significant quantities. > I don’t think anyone is suggesting this.

Ok, what are they suggesting? If they aren’t suggesting significant quantities, then they are insignificant quantities, and what’s the point? >Biomass will not replace >oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in >oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Howsabout "Biomass can replace SOME oil" ?

Oil? or fuel? or both? Fuels are refined from crude oil. How much, 10% would be about 2 million BOE/day. >Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent >that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion >in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of >Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is >low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a >liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > What about waste from silviculture?

Great for heating greenhouses, making into pellet fuel for stoves and furnaces and the like. Good use for it if it truely is waste, but so is composting it. >Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted >to alcohol. > Not good as corn requires massive energy input in the form of nitrogen > ferts. Try a legume of other nitrogen fixer.

And alot of other energy inputs. >In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It >takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, >1998). > Yep, see above.

Thank your for agreeing. >Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used >as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn >production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol >has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent >mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make >up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as >advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > So, grow an oil crop that fixes its own nitrogen. Use the waste for > cattle feed of fish feed or whatever.

Is there such a crop? Legumes fix nitrogen. Are they energy positive or negative when all inputs are calculated? Has anyone  done the research? Their isn’t much time left and growing crops can take at the very least one growing season. >  Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just >as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and >alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air >pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol >production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > Then don’t use it. Vegertable oils are much better and safer.

You still have the energy inputs and fertilizer inputs in growing the vegetables. Got any calculations for these? Let’s see, fuel to till the land, fertilizer, fuel to plant the seeds, pesticides and herbicides, fuel to harvest and bring to a vegetable oil processor. Energy needed to process. Energy need to provide additional inputs to make the fuel. Energy needed to distribute the fuel made. I am sure there would be more. Anyone done a calculation? I believe rapeseed is the highest producer of vegetable oil. >With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the >fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline >and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol >production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s >use reduce atmospheric pollution. > So what about making it from silviculture waste that is fertilised > with sewage waste? More ways of killing a cat…

Go right ahead, how much can you produce, and for how long? American oil use is on the order of 20 million BBL/day. How much of it can you replace? What’s the BOE equivelent of a BBL of "cropfuel"? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> But condeming something coz it can’t replace everything is as silly as > greenies whinging that vitamin A enhanced rice is evil soz it does not > supply ALL the dietary needs of this vitamin. >A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro >and others (1997) concludes: >  Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of >oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of >it. > Seven or eight year old info. When you factor in present and potential > GM plants…..

Rapeseed, the best of the oil producing seeds is GM modified. It has escaped and thier are lawsuits flying over this escape. Farmers who plant non GM rapeseed have been taken to court because of cross pollination with the GM product. It’s a real issue. Please provide some BOE equivelents for your cropfuels, whether they be ethanol, biodiesel, vegetable oil….. ect. Perhaps with some numbers we could take an educated look at it… but I don’t see any numbers. But, let’s take a look at it from a different direction. Say, without using current food production land for this production, you can provide a "cropfuel" at 10% of the total fuel use today. Say we manage to get that to 20% by the time fossil fuels are depleted, and we add another 10-20% from coal. Limiting that because of the CO2 problem. Say 40% of total fuel used now, with a 60% loss of availability of fuel. Just where is this fuel to go? To continue the automobile? To the farmers? To the trains? The planes? The Truckers? Electric generation to replace the natural gas? A complete solution must be found. Partials will only cause conflict. Who get’s what? Food production 1st? Shipping 1st serve? ect, ect. When you say "cropfuels" are not a complete solution, but we want to use them, that is just pushing your own agenda, be it ethanol, biodiesel, synthetic oil, whatever. What about SUV mom? Jetsetter tween LA and NY? They are all going to WANT fuel? So you better be able to provide them with something and if you can’t….. I personally don’t believe there is a complete solution, using ALL the alternative fuels. Someone, somewhere is going to have to stand up and say, OK people, the auto era is over, get over it. Walk, ride a train, but tough tit, you aren’t getting any fuel. Then… maybe some progress can be made. Certain sectors will have to be fueled, and oil, biodiesel, LNG, hybrids, and all the rest can probably accomplish that…. but not untill we tell people they can’t drive millions of cars to soccer practice or jetset between LA and NY. Hell, oil alone might accomplish it for 50 more years if we cut out the family auto. Damn sure would give us alot more time to come up with a solution. But it’s gonna be a real big problem, very soon,  if we don’t get out of our cars soon and see what’s happening. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of >Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. >> Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from >> the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press >> plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a >> truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. >> > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a >> fuel >> > > source. >> > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. >> > Best, Dan. >> > — >> > http://lakeweb.net >> > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> posted: >Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will >never replace oil in any significant quantities. > I don’t think anyone is suggesting this.

Ok, what are they suggesting? If they aren’t suggesting significant quantities, then they are insignificant quantities, and what’s the point? >Biomass will not replace >oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in >oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Howsabout "Biomass can replace SOME oil" ?

Oil? or fuel? or both? Fuels are refined from crude oil. How much, 10% would be about 2 million BOE/day. >Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent >that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion >in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of >Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is >low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a >liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > What about waste from silviculture?

Great for heating greenhouses, making into pellet fuel for stoves and furnaces and the like. Good use for it if it truely is waste, but so is composting it. >Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted >to alcohol. > Not good as corn requires massive energy input in the form of nitrogen > ferts. Try a legume of other nitrogen fixer.

And alot of other energy inputs. >In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It >takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, >1998). > Yep, see above.

Thank your for agreeing. >Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used >as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn >production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol >has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent >mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make >up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as >advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > So, grow an oil crop that fixes its own nitrogen. Use the waste for > cattle feed of fish feed or whatever.

Is there such a crop? Legumes fix nitrogen. Are they energy positive or negative when all inputs are calculated? Has anyone  done the research? Their isn’t much time left and growing crops can take at the very least one growing season. >  Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just >as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and >alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air >pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol >production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > Then don’t use it. Vegertable oils are much better and safer.

You still have the energy inputs and fertilizer inputs in growing the vegetables. Got any calculations for these? Let’s see, fuel to till the land, fertilizer, fuel to plant the seeds, pesticides and herbicides, fuel to harvest and bring to a vegetable oil processor. Energy needed to process. Energy need to provide additional inputs to make the fuel. Energy needed to distribute the fuel made. I am sure there would be more. Anyone done a calculation? I believe rapeseed is the highest producer of vegetable oil. >With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the >fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline >and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol >production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s >use reduce atmospheric pollution. > So what about making it from silviculture waste that is fertilised > with sewage waste? More ways of killing a cat…

Go right ahead, how much can you produce, and for how long? American oil use is on the order of 20 million BBL/day. How much of it can you replace? What’s the BOE equivelent of a BBL of "cropfuel"? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> But condeming something coz it can’t replace everything is as silly as > greenies whinging that vitamin A enhanced rice is evil soz it does not > supply ALL the dietary needs of this vitamin. >A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro >and others (1997) concludes: >  Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of >oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of >it. > Seven or eight year old info. When you factor in present and potential > GM plants…..

Rapeseed, the best of the oil producing seeds is GM modified. It has escaped and thier are lawsuits flying over this escape. Farmers who plant non GM rapeseed have been taken to court because of cross pollination with the GM product. It’s a real issue. Please provide some BOE equivelents for your cropfuels, whether they be ethanol, biodiesel, vegetable oil….. ect. Perhaps with some numbers we could take an educated look at it… but I don’t see any numbers. But, let’s take a look at it from a different direction. Say, without using current food production land for this production, you can provide a "cropfuel" at 10% of the total fuel use today. Say we manage to get that to 20% by the time fossil fuels are depleted, and we add another 10-20% from coal. Limiting that because of the CO2 problem. Say 40% of total fuel used now, with a 60% loss of availability of fuel. Just where is this fuel to go? To continue the automobile? To the farmers? To the trains? The planes? The Truckers? Electric generation to replace the natural gas? A complete solution must be found. Partials will only cause conflict. Who get’s what? Food production 1st? Shipping 1st serve? ect, ect. When you say "cropfuels" are not a complete solution, but we want to use them, that is just pushing your own agenda, be it ethanol, biodiesel, synthetic oil, whatever. What about SUV mom? Jetsetter tween LA and NY? They are all going to WANT fuel? So you better be able to provide them with something and if you can’t….. I personally don’t believe there is a complete solution, using ALL the alternative fuels. Someone, somewhere is going to have to stand up and say, OK people, the auto era is over, get over it. Walk, ride a train, but tough tit, you aren’t getting any fuel. Then… maybe some progress can be made. Certain sectors will have to be fueled, and oil, biodiesel, LNG, hybrids, and all the rest can probably accomplish that…. but not untill we tell people they can’t drive millions of cars to soccer practice or jetset between LA and NY. Hell, oil alone might accomplish it for 50 more years if we cut out the family auto. Damn sure would give us alot more time to come up with a solution. But it’s gonna be a real big problem, very soon,  if we don’t get out of our cars soon and see what’s happening. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of >Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. >> Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from >> the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press >> plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a >> truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. >> > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a >> fuel >> > > source. >> > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. >> > Best, Dan. >> > — >> > http://lakeweb.net >> > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Arnold, Great idea, let the illegals in and take their land. It’s kinda funny. But don’t forget, for each new illegal coming into the US, it’s just another mouth that will have to be fed when crunch time comes. If we are throwing out oddball ideas. I have a better idea. Let’s leave them down there and let them try to grow cropfuels. See how long that lasts, and if they can’t get the job done, send the army down and persuade them to continue.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. > Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have > the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% > solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the > long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and > processing that is actually required. > But crop fuels are something else. > > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food > waste > > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture. > These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel > is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a > required energy. > Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy > source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an > area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder > about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what > would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area > this large? > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com > Boimass for fuel is not new ……the industrial revoltution would have > never happened without biomass > And the people  didn’t die out either. > Though many confuse bad land management with crop growth….. > I can assure you that with forestry management we have more trees now than > in the past here in the Pineywoods. > But then the entire country is up 10-15% over 100 years ago…..inspite of > land clearing for cities and row crops. one > adjustment for fuel crops is the banning > of oversea food shipments.To open up pasture and feilds to trees or whatever > the energy crop is. > You can look at Haiti and then Dominion Republic next door and see the > difference land mangement makes. > then none of your examples were. > On algae the cheapest method seems to be like our Texas rice farmers.Yes, > cows are not the only crop,though people > do give funny looks about imagined ideas about Texas farming. > Another note on land management …..there are some African countries that > few in the Black Cautus want to remember. > Because political influence has turned a breadbasket area into a food > disaster for political gain of the leaders in power. > So land area is not the only issue influencing crop yeild…. > Besides if that land area is all that important …..maybe we can go the > route of some the extreme illegal Mexicans.Assign > a land value to each illegal and reprossess that many acres of Mexico.Wiith > bean counters at the border gates….might own all of > Central and South America by the end of the decade given the present > political climate on both sides of the asile.   .

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Oooh, Maybe you can use those to eat while you raise your corn to make fuel for autos. A farmer cum IT man. Maybe you ought to go back to plan A.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You lying sack of bird droppings. > I used to farm for a living. Now I make my money in IT, and I farm for > research and as a plan B. Everything I quote I have personally researched > and proven, or quote agencies who have. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep > spouting lies untill someone believe it? > Biomass is a farce. > > Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy > put > > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > > — > > Steve Spence > > Renewable energy and sustainable living > > http://www.green-trust.org > > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > > powered diesels at > > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t > a > > fuel > > > > source. > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > Best, Dan. > > > — > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

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Spence, Give it up. Cropfuels will never work. ADM is the only reason that it is still alive today. Their contributions to congress buys the midwest farm vote. Personally I don’t care if you try to drink the stuff. Lot’s of moonshiners did. I ask for proof, you have replied with none. From that point I question your integrity. I am still waiting for proof that you can replace gasoline with ethanol. As we see from this post, ADM has bought your vote. Let me quess, you live in Iowa. Give up ethanol. We found out 25 years ago here in OK it’s a lost cause. Makes a good drinkin whiskey if you distill right, but useless as fuel. It’s use in gasoline is probably exacerbating the depletion of fossil fuels. Now, if you want use wood chips from a sawmill to heat a greenhouse, or make wood pellets for pellet fired stoves, be my guest, that’s a decent plan to use trash, but it will never replace fossil fuels. Don’t WASTE our valuable cropland growing corn. Once you lose fossil fueled fertilizers your yeild per acre will likely drop from the current 120-130 bushels back to 20-30 bushels. All crop yields will fall without those fertilizers, and we are going to need ALL the cropland we can find to produce food. Don’t waste fossil fuels and valuable crop land to make and energy wasting product such as ethanol. Hmm, a corn farmer, a dairyman, and Information Technology to boot, quite a rounded individual I would say. I wonder who the real liar is?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> nospam is a known liar, and a fool besides. Been working corn and dairy for > years, in addition to my IT work. I work for no one but myself. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. > Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. > Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. > Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can > let > so much BS be spread so far. > Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try > disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you. > > Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither > > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the > energy > we > > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the > energy. > > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and > have > > for years, so why even bring it up? > > — > > Steve Spence > > Renewable energy and sustainable living > > http://www.green-trust.org > > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > > powered diesels at > > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it > will > > > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not > replace > > > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy > "crisis" > > in > > > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would > cause. > > > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > > extent > > > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > > erosion > > > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > > > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy > recovery > > is > > > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it > to > a > > > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > > > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > > converted > > > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. > It > > > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it > (Pimentel, > > > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from > being > > used > > > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. > corn > > > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. > Ethanol > > > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > > percent > > > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased > to > > make > > > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > > > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > > >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > > just > > > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds > aldehydes > > and > > > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > > > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, > ethanol > > > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > > > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost > of > > the > > > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs > (gasoline > > > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > > ethanol > > > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > > it’s > > > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > > > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by > Giampietro > > > and others (1997) concludes: > > >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current > use > > of > > > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant > fraction > > of > > > it. > > >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > > > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and > sawdust > > from > > > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And > there > is > > a > > > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like > stated. > > > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides > isn’t > > a > > > > fuel > > > > > > source. > > > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > > then. > > > > > Best, Dan. > > > > > — > > > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

I’d rather have ethanol in my gas than MTBE. Fortunately NY is a progressive state in that regard. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline > supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry. > (cut) > But it doesn’t make up 10% of the gasoline supply.  I should know.  I have 6 > years of gasoline blending experience with Shell Oil.  In that 6 years, > Shell Oil in Deer Park blended one and only one ethanol blend.  This means > that a substantial portion of the Gulf Coast region has no ethanol in its > gasoline.  I suspect that only regions with a strong ADM lobby have this > stuff. > Ethanol is real trouble when it comes to meeting the modern "environmental" > specifications on gasoline, for reasons that I don’t need to go into.  In > addition, there probably isn’t enough spare farm land in the U.S. to produce > the ethanol required to blend all gasoline with ethanol.  In addition to > that, ethanol will act as a cosolvent for gasoline components, and speed the > migration of gasoline components through the water table where ever it > leaks. > Need I go on?

Response:

posted: >Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will >never replace oil in any significant quantities.

I don’t think anyone is suggesting this. >Biomass will not replace >oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in >oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause.

Howsabout "Biomass can replace SOME oil" ? >Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent >that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion >in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of >Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is >low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a >liquid fuel in any significant quantities.

What about waste from silviculture? >Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted >to alcohol.

Not good as corn requires massive energy input in the form of nitrogen ferts. Try a legume of other nitrogen fixer. >In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It >takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, >1998).

Yep, see above. >Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used >as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn >production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol >has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent >mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make >up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as >advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states:

So, grow an oil crop that fixes its own nitrogen. Use the waste for cattle feed of fish feed or whatever. >  Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just >as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and >alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air >pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol >production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems.

Then don’t use it. Vegertable oils are much better and safer. >With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the >fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline >and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol >production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s >use reduce atmospheric pollution.

So what about making it from silviculture waste that is fertilised with sewage waste? More ways of killing a cat… But condeming something coz it can’t replace everything is as silly as greenies whinging that vitamin A enhanced rice is evil soz it does not supply ALL the dietary needs of this vitamin. >A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro >and others (1997) concludes: >  Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of >oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of >it.

Seven or eight year old info. When you factor in present and potential GM plants….. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of >Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline > supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry.

(cut) But it doesn’t make up 10% of the gasoline supply.  I should know.  I have 6 years of gasoline blending experience with Shell Oil.  In that 6 years, Shell Oil in Deer Park blended one and only one ethanol blend.  This means that a substantial portion of the Gulf Coast region has no ethanol in its gasoline.  I suspect that only regions with a strong ADM lobby have this stuff. Ethanol is real trouble when it comes to meeting the modern "environmental" specifications on gasoline, for reasons that I don’t need to go into.  In addition, there probably isn’t enough spare farm land in the U.S. to produce the ethanol required to blend all gasoline with ethanol.  In addition to that, ethanol will act as a cosolvent for gasoline components, and speed the migration of gasoline components through the water table where ever it leaks. Need I go on?

Response:

> Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 > times the energy we put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives > us back 4 times the energy. Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters > elimanate NOx as an issue, and have for years, so why even bring it > up?

He brings it up because he knows that the HUGE volume of fuel you would have to produce to displace oil consumption makes this idea a loser.  For niche markets, it probably will contribute.  However, it is not the "savior" that many believe.

Response:

Indeed. we rotate crops for that reason. know any good nitrogen fixing oil crops? — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put >in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > Fertilisers (nitrogen) are the biggest energy input to many crops. > For a better net gain, a nitrogen fixing crop should be chosen.

Response:

>Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put >in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process.

Fertilisers (nitrogen) are the biggest energy input to many crops. For a better net gain, a nitrogen fixing crop should be chosen.

Response:

Arnold, you may have missed the point.  "Crop fuels" are probably things like ethanol, with the primary function being as a fuel.  Wood chips and sawdust are secondary products of a process whose chief application is construction. For any process where the primary product makes money, any secondary product, by default, will add to profitability unless you have to pay to have it hauled off. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there > is a truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like >> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t >> a fuel source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

You lying sack of bird droppings. I used to farm for a living. Now I make my money in IT, and I farm for research and as a plan B. Everything I quote I have personally researched and proven, or quote agencies who have. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep > spouting lies untill someone believe it? > Biomass is a farce. > Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy > put > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Funny how something that is pure BS makes up 10% of our gasoline supply, and a greater percentage of the beverage industry. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far. > Brazil’s near bankruptcy in their attempt to switch to an ethanol > economy is particularly illustrative. > Http://www.tinaja.com/glib/energfun.pdf > — > Many thanks, > Don Lancaster > Synergetics   3860 West First Street  Box 809  Thatcher, AZ 85552 > Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

nospam is a known liar, and a fool besides. Been working corn and dairy for years, in addition to my IT work. I work for no one but myself. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. > Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. > Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. > Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far. > Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try > disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you. > Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and > neither > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy > we > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the > energy. > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have > for years, so why even bring it up? > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it > will > > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not > replace > > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy > "crisis" > in > > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > extent > > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > erosion > > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy > recovery > is > > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to > a > > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > converted > > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being > used > > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. > corn > > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. > Ethanol > > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > percent > > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to > make > > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: > >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > just > > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes > and > > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, > ethanol > > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of > the > > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs > (gasoline > > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > ethanol > > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > it’s > > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by > Giampietro > > and others (1997) concludes: > >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current > use > of > > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction > of > > it. > >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from > > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there > is > a > > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides > isn’t > a > > > fuel > > > > > source. > > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > > Best, Dan. > > > > — > > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to > congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let > so much BS be spread so far.

Brazil’s near bankruptcy in their attempt to switch to an ethanol economy is particularly illustrative. Http://www.tinaja.com/glib/energfun.pdf — Many thanks, Don Lancaster Synergetics   3860 West First Street  Box 809  Thatcher, AZ 85552 Please visit my GURU’s LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. > Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have > the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% > solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the > long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and > processing that is actually required. > But crop fuels are something else. > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture. > These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel > is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a > required energy. > Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy > source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an > area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder > about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what > would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area > this large? > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Boimass for fuel is not new ……the industrial revoltution would have never happened without biomass And the people  didn’t die out either. Though many confuse bad land management with crop growth….. I can assure you that with forestry management we have more trees now than in the past here in the Pineywoods. But then the entire country is up 10-15% over 100 years ago…..inspite of land clearing for cities and row crops. adjustment for fuel crops is the banning of oversea food shipments.To open up pasture and feilds to trees or whatever the energy crop is. You can look at Haiti and then Dominion Republic next door and see the difference land mangement makes. then none of your examples were. On algae the cheapest method seems to be like our Texas rice farmers.Yes, cows are not the only crop,though people do give funny looks about imagined ideas about Texas farming. Another note on land management …..there are some African countries that few in the Black Cautus want to remember. Because political influence has turned a breadbasket area into a food disaster for political gain of the leaders in power. So land area is not the only issue influencing crop yeild…. Besides if that land area is all that important …..maybe we can go the route of some the extreme illegal Mexicans.Assign a land value to each illegal and reprossess that many acres of Mexico.Wiith bean counters at the border gates….might own all of Central and South America by the end of the decade given the present political climate on both sides of the asile.   .

Response:

>>So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the > economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to > become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies.

Well, Steve has brought links along concerning algae. This could have the potential of realistic yields. I’ve heard it could be as much as 10% solar efficient. But what I haven’t seen yet is a concise study of the long term cost of production. How much infrastructure input, and processing that is actually required. But crop fuels are something else. > However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste > products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, > etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them > available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the > future of renewable energy, but part of the picture.

These are strategies in conservation. Using old french fry oil as a fuel is the same. Conservation can have a powerful effect in reducing a required energy. Switchgrass is the best North American crop I could find as an energy source. But the last time I looked at published yields, it would take an area larger than this country to produce 25 quad. So, I have to wonder about the hidden cost of this production and I may be wrong. But what would be the energy for the infrastructure and processing off an area this large? Best, Dan. — http://lakeweb.net http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

This guy is lying his ass off. Is that how you make money, just keep spouting lies untill someone believe it? Biomass is a farce.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put > in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Spence is full of it, He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither have those who like to quote him. Easy enough to say. Where’s your proof. Or are you just full of BS. Work for ADM? I’ll lay odds you do. Ethanol is pure BS, kept alive by the huge contributions of ADM to congressman. Amazing how spreading that much money around Washington can let so much BS be spread so far. Biomass is a farce. Go peddle your weak minded BS somewhere else, try disneyland, I hear they like Mikey Mouses like you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither > have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy we > put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the energy. > Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have > for years, so why even bring it up? > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" > in > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the > extent > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive > erosion > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery > is > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are > converted > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being > used > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 > percent > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to > make > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces > just > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes > and > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of > the > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for > ethanol > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does > it’s > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro > and others (1997) concludes: >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use > of > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction > of > it. >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust > from > > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is > a > > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t > a > > fuel > > > > source. > > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source > then. > > > Best, Dan. > > > — > > > http://lakeweb.net > > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then.

As presently produced, yes. But the current activities are based on the economics of food production, not possible fuel production. You need to become more informed about possible future agri-fuel technologies. However there’s another more immediately relevant point. Where food waste products (i.e. cattle manure and bedding straw, trimmings, spoiled food, etc) are already available then the marginal energy cost to make them available for energy production is far lower. Not a major player in the future of renewable energy, but part of the picture.

Response:

Don’t be silly. Crops give back anywhere from 1.5 to 4 times the energy put in as fuel, depending on crop, fuel, and process. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Pimental was full of it. He never actually grew a crop of corn, and neither have those who like to quote him. Corn gives us back 1.5 times the energy we put into growing it in ethanol. Biodiesel gives us back 4 times the energy. Fuel crops work! Catalytic converters elimanate NOx as an issue, and have for years, so why even bring it up? — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will > never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace > oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in > oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. > Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent > that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion > in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of > Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is > low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a > liquid fuel in any significant quantities. > Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted > to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It > takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, > 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used > as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn > production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol > has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent > mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make > up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as > advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states: >   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just > as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and > alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air > pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol > production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. > With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the > fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline > and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol > production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s > use reduce atmospheric pollution. > A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro > and others (1997) concludes: >   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of > oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of > it. >   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of > Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600. > Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > > source. > > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > > Best, Dan. > > — > > http://lakeweb.net > > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Nope, Dan’s right. It may not be an complete energy negative, but it will never replace oil in any significant quantities. Biomass will not replace oil. And shoudn’t be tried. It will simply exacerbate the energy "crisis" in oil and natural gas. Not to mention the ecological mess it would cause. Wood and other biomass. Wood has long been used as a fuel, now to the extent that large areas worldwide are being deforested resulting in massive erosion in such places as the foothills of the Himalayas, and the mountains of Haiti. Wood can be converted to a liquid fuel but the net energy recovery is low, and there is not enough wood available to be able to convert it to a liquid fuel in any significant quantities. Other biomass fuel sources have been tried. Crops such as corn are converted to alcohol. In the case of corn to ethanol, it is an energy negative. It takes more energy to produce ethanol than is obtained from it (Pimentel, 1998). Also, using grain such as corn for fuel, precludes it from being used as food for humans or livestock. It is also hard on the land. In U.S. corn production, soil erodes some 20-times faster than soil is formed. Ethanol has less energy per volume than does gasoline, so when used as a 10 percent mix with gasoline (called gasohol), more gasohol has to be purchased to make up the difference. Also, ethanol is not so environmentally friendly as advocates would like to believe. Pimentel (1998) states:   Ethanol produces less carbon monoxide than gasoline, but it produces just as much nitrous oxides as gasoline. In addition, ethanol adds aldehydes and alcohol to the atmosphere, all of which are carcinogenic. When all air pollutants associated with the entire ethanol system are measured, ethanol production is found to contribute to major air pollution problems. With a lower energy density than gasoline, and adding the energy cost of the fertilizer (made chiefly from natural gas), and the energy costs (gasoline and/or diesel) to plow, plant, cultivate, and transport the corn for ethanol production, ethanol in total does not save fossil fuel energy nor does it’s use reduce atmospheric pollution. A comprehensive study of converting biomass to liquid fuels by Giampietro and others (1997) concludes:   Large scale biofuel production is not an alternative to the current use of oil, and is not even an advisable option to cover a significant fraction of it.   GIAMPIETRO, M., ULGIATI, S., and PIMENTEL, D., 1997, Feasibility of Large-Scale Biofuel Production: BioScience, v. 8, n. 9, p. 587-600.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from > the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press > plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a > truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated. > > anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a > fuel > > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source.

So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. Best, Dan. — http://lakeweb.net http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Then you would be wrong,,,,,,many logging areas use scrap and sawdust from the logs in electric plants. To cut the lumbers,press plywood,……chip press,and glue particle/waffer board…..And there is a truck load of product going out the gate,not zero or less like stated.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> anything that takes more energy to "fill" it than it provides isn’t a fuel > source. > So far as I can tell, crop fuels are pretty much not a fuel source then. > Best, Dan. > — > http://lakeweb.net > http://ReserveAnalyst.com

Response:

Question:

> for every gallon of fuel we use, we extract 3 – 4 gallons of veggie > oil. > for every kWh we expend on ethanol, we get 1.5 kWh back.

Of course, I was monomaniacally looking at the other side of the equation, so to speak, sorry. Pete.

Response:

> The efficiency issues may not be critical.  It all depends on the > proportion of electricity and heat.  If the major requirement is for > heat a tiny gas turbine of relatively low efficiency might be ideal. > The work of Kurt Schreckling whose homebuilt jet engine > designes are widely madee by model enthusiasts (the > crompressor is made out of wood and his turbine is made of > normal  stainless steel hand filed and cut out of sheet shows that > if mechnical efficiency is not the issue then such engines can be > made quite cheap. > likewise if super efficiency and small size is not required stirlings > air pressurised by their own pump are also affordable.

I have had a bit of experience with Stirling cycles and I am not so sure about this last, peak load sizing and all.  A cheap Gas turbine has some possibilities though. > The amount of coal, oil and natural gas used per capita in the > USA is truely prodigous.  About 10kg coal, 8L (2 gallons) oil, 8 > cubic meters natural gas. > There are efficient ways of using this however I have never > checked an analysis of ‘free biomass’.   I do believe a very large > land area is required to use wood to match the above. > Nevertheless if the sewerage, food scraps, garden litter, > resturaunt waste of a typical family were fermented it might > supply a fair amount of methane.  Enough possibly to make a > substantial contribution.  It would be funny to think of people > retaining a turd so that they could lay it at home since it would > savwe them $$ in terms of gas not having to be brought.  I must > look up home metane digesters.

Lets look at it another way, what proportion of biomass energy, from all sources, eventually ends up as waste?  I would think the vast majority of it, say 80% or more.  Like heat, what energy is not initially used must still be hanging around somewhere, available to be used.  For example, all trees end up as firewood eventually.  Even natural habitats can be harvested for dead stuff, with limited environmental cost, short circuiting the natural decay process, reducing methane emissions. Perhaps 50% of the Earth’s biomass can ultimately be continually harvested in this fashion, I suspect that is probably sufficient to meet the half world’s total energy needs alone.  Probably enough to largely replace fossil fuels. > Compressed air starting is quite normal in piston engines > especialy truck diesels and jet engines. > If cogeneration was used over a neigbourhood street with houses > sharing electricity then over a 24 hour period each house might > generate for only 1 hour to produce maybe 500L-1000L of hot > water while pushing out electricity for the whole neighbourhood. > Some sort of intelligent sharing would be possible.

Yes that would also work.  A couple of small units instead of one big one. > This only fails when there is need to supply mechanical power to > airconditioning as on such days the waste heat of a limited value.

Yes, this is a circumstance that necessitates high efficiency. Pete.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is not usual to consider ICE (internal combustion engines) as > suitable for this role, at least in urban environments because their > emisions are to hard to control. > Agreed, I had earlier made reference to this starting with rural areas > first.  Though I suspect that ICE’s with some attention to emissions > might still fair well. > Stirling, Gas Turbine and perhaps SOFC fuel cells are more > suitable. > SOFC maybe.  Real life Stirling has efficiency and cost issues, gas > turbines have small scale and efficiency issues.  Personally I am of the > opinion that something new is required, something that has the > performance and cost of an ICE, without the drawbacks.  A positive > displacement Brayton cycle, for example, or something further along > those lines.  I think the ICE might be the starting point though.

The efficiency issues may not be critical.  It all depends on the proportion of electricity and heat.  If the major requirement is for heat a tiny gas turbine of relatively low efficiency might be ideal. The work of Kurt Schreckling whose homebuilt jet engine designes are widely madee by model enthusiasts (the crompressor is made out of wood and his turbine is made of normal  stainless steel hand filed and cut out of sheet shows that if mechnical efficiency is not the issue then such engines can be made quite cheap. likewise if super efficiency and small size is not required stirlings air pressurised by their own pump are also affordable. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Biomass i don’t think is NOT cheap unless you have acres of > spare land.   An acre of land can grown 6-9 tons of dried wood > per year.  Each kg of wood has an energy content of 13500kj > (about 3.5kw.hr) compared to oil (42000kj or 11.2kw.hr per > kg). > In any mass use of biomass its higher expense to simply digging > up coal would become apparent. > There is I think vast amounts of rotting vegetation and garbage > that seems to be unexploited. > It’s not clear to me what you mean by biomass.  Do you mean > wood and similar material gasified? > Or do you mean sewerage or animal wastes or perhaps > fermented materials that given of methane? > All of the above, cheapest first, there is an enormous amount of waste > out there, I do not think we would ever have to actually grow anything. > Perhaps in the long term we might graze off forests, collecting the dead > wood, leaves, undesired species, culling a few older trees, thinning > out.  Harvesting the good wood and using the rest for energy.

The amount of coal, oil and natural gas used per capita in the USA is truely prodigous.  About 10kg coal, 8L (2 gallons) oil, 8 cubic meters natural gas. There are efficient ways of using this however I have never checked an analysis of ‘free biomass’.   I do believe a very large land area is required to use wood to match the above. Nevertheless if the sewerage, food scraps, garden litter, resturaunt waste of a typical family were fermented it might supply a fair amount of methane.  Enough possibly to make a substantial contribution.  It would be funny to think of people retaining a turd so that they could lay it at home since it would savwe them $$ in terms of gas not having to be brought.  I must look up home metane digesters. > Most ICE, Stirling Engines and Gas Turbines will only covert > 1/3rd of your biomass into electricity.   To make it work you to > use the exaust heat to make hot water, heat the house and > perhpas even cook. > Unless you have storage you will have to keep you biomass > engine running to supply the intermitant load of your refridgerator > or a 25 watt bulb in the outhouse. > This is a good point.  It would be nice to avoid a large battery, > perhaps an accumulator system with fast engine start capability. > Assuming a Brayton cycle, a pressure reserve with small air motor to > service loads below main engine cutoff.

Compressed air starting is quite normal in piston engines especialy truck diesels and jet engines. If cogeneration was used over a neigbourhood street with houses sharing electricity then over a 24 hour period each house might generate for only 1 hour to produce maybe 500L-1000L of hot water while pushing out electricity for the whole neighbourhood.  Some sort of intelligent sharing would be possible. This only fails when there is need to supply mechanical power to airconditioning as on such days the waste heat of a limited value. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pete.

Response:

for every gallon of fuel we use, we extract 3 – 4 gallons of veggie oil. for every kWh we expend on ethanol, we get 1.5 kWh back. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Um, in a word, no. We are crushing crops for the vegetable oils > and burning them directly in a diesel engine. We also collect > waste vegetable oil from restaurants. They pay us to do this. No > solar or wind is necessary. > I am still not sure what you mean by "positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 > to 4x."  What proportion of the total crop energy is the oil yielded? > Pete.

Response:

> Um, in a word, no. We are crushing crops for the vegetable oils > and burning them directly in a diesel engine. We also collect > waste vegetable oil from restaurants. They pay us to do this. No > solar or wind is necessary.

I am still not sure what you mean by "positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x."  What proportion of the total crop energy is the oil yielded? Pete.

Response:

> It is not usual to consider ICE (internal combustion engines) as > suitable for this role, at least in urban environments because their > emisions are to hard to control.

Agreed, I had earlier made reference to this starting with rural areas first.  Though I suspect that ICE’s with some attention to emissions might still fair well. > Stirling, Gas Turbine and perhaps SOFC fuel cells are more > suitable.

SOFC maybe.  Real life Stirling has efficiency and cost issues, gas turbines have small scale and efficiency issues.  Personally I am of the opinion that something new is required, something that has the performance and cost of an ICE, without the drawbacks.  A positive displacement Brayton cycle, for example, or something further along those lines.  I think the ICE might be the starting point though. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Biomass i don’t think is NOT cheap unless you have acres of > spare land.   An acre of land can grown 6-9 tons of dried wood > per year.  Each kg of wood has an energy content of 13500kj > (about 3.5kw.hr) compared to oil (42000kj or 11.2kw.hr per > kg). > In any mass use of biomass its higher expense to simply digging > up coal would become apparent. > There is I think vast amounts of rotting vegetation and garbage > that seems to be unexploited. > It’s not clear to me what you mean by biomass.  Do you mean > wood and similar material gasified? > Or do you mean sewerage or animal wastes or perhaps > fermented materials that given of methane?

All of the above, cheapest first, there is an enormous amount of waste out there, I do not think we would ever have to actually grow anything. Perhaps in the long term we might graze off forests, collecting the dead wood, leaves, undesired species, culling a few older trees, thinning out.  Harvesting the good wood and using the rest for energy. > Most ICE, Stirling Engines and Gas Turbines will only covert > 1/3rd of your biomass into electricity.   To make it work you to > use the exaust heat to make hot water, heat the house and > perhpas even cook. > Unless you have storage you will have to keep you biomass > engine running to supply the intermitant load of your refridgerator > or a 25 watt bulb in the outhouse.

This is a good point.  It would be nice to avoid a large battery, perhaps an accumulator system with fast engine start capability. Assuming a Brayton cycle, a pressure reserve with small air motor to service loads below main engine cutoff. Pete.

Response:

The leftover seedcake from veggie oil pressing is used for animal and human food products. Wood gasifiers are more complicated than running a diesel on veggie oil. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, > or > ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the > veggie oils > can be used straight in a standard diesel engine. > I think if it came right down to it you would be growing wood on your > farm and powering your tractor with a wood gasifier.  (I know you are > knowlegeable on these).  SVO or Biodiesel would be reserved for > essential or luxury uses. > Do you know of any oil seed crop plants eg hemp, sunflowers, flax in > which the stalks are used as biomass?   Can the stalks be efficiently > converted to a liquid fuel by any process? > I know flax and hemp have useable fiber and that sunflower stalks are > used as fuel or animal feed. > AFAIK unless more of the plant can be used biodiesel and SVO has only > a niche use. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying > to > > figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches. > > Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, > > household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale > to > > current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense > in > > specific energy crops at this stage. > > One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel > it is > > a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is > > probably acceptable for most transport applications in this > regard, > > better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to > > standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities. > > Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs > all > > sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the > energy > > content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary > or > > desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem > preferable in > > most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are > engine > > types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water > contents. > > Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very > favorably to > > even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission > > standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient > to > > start with. > > One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a > > household that operates without battery storage or grid > connection. > > Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, > perhaps > > even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite > saving > > on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. > > Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at > retail > > without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth > 500% > > plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a > > households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn > clippings, > > etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass > required > > would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be > required on a > > larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural > of > > forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and > > automatic feed systems are possible. > > Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), > are > > but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or > less. > > This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate > for > > very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be > even > > more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include > farm, > > forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on > > emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far > cheaper > > fuel than oil. > > So how should this be done… > > Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat > an > > power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few > hundred a > > year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps > with > > steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the > coal > > systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are > many > > possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. > > Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but > it also > > seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured > technical > > approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what > is > > required to make them happen?  This looks like something that > could be > > developed on the cheap. > > Pete.

Response:

> It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, or > ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the veggie oils > can be used straight in a standard diesel engine.

I think if it came right down to it you would be growing wood on your farm and powering your tractor with a wood gasifier.  (I know you are knowlegeable on these).  SVO or Biodiesel would be reserved for essential or luxury uses. Do you know of any oil seed crop plants eg hemp, sunflowers, flax in which the stalks are used as biomass?   Can the stalks be efficiently converted to a liquid fuel by any process? I know flax and hemp have useable fiber and that sunflower stalks are used as fuel or animal feed. AFAIK unless more of the plant can be used biodiesel and SVO has only a niche use. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying to > figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches. > Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, > household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale to > current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense in > specific energy crops at this stage. > One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel it is > a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is > probably acceptable for most transport applications in this regard, > better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to > standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities. > Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs all > sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the energy > content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary or > desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem preferable in > most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are engine > types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water contents. > Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very favorably to > even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission > standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient to > start with. > One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a > household that operates without battery storage or grid connection. > Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, perhaps > even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite saving > on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. > Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at retail > without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth 500% > plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a > households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn clippings, > etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass required > would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be required on a > larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural of > forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and > automatic feed systems are possible. > Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), are > but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or less. > This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate for > very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be even > more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include farm, > forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on > emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far cheaper > fuel than oil. > So how should this be done… > Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat an > power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few hundred a > year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps with > steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the coal > systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are many > possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. > Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but it also > seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured technical > approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what is > required to make them happen?  This looks like something that could be > developed on the cheap. > Pete.

Response:

I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying to figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches. Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale to current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense in specific energy crops at this stage. One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel it is a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is probably acceptable for most transport applications in this regard, better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities. Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs all sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the energy content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary or desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem preferable in most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are engine types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water contents. Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very favorably to even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient to start with. One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a household that operates without battery storage or grid connection. Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, perhaps even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite saving on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at retail without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth 500% plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn clippings, etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass required would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be required on a larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural of forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and automatic feed systems are possible. Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), are but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or less. This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate for very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be even more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include farm, forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far cheaper fuel than oil. So how should this be done… Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat an power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few hundred a year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps with steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the coal systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are many possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but it also seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured technical approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what is required to make them happen?  This looks like something that could be developed on the cheap. Pete.

Response:

> I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying to > figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches.

Your not alone in this. > Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, > household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale to > current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense in > specific energy crops at this stage.

I would expect that CHP options would be one of the easiest and best uses of such material. Biomass needs some form of treatment first and I would expect that a shred and burn unit heating a Stirling Engine powered generator would get you electrical supplies and enough heat to run a cooking range, home heating and provide hot water whenever it was needed. If you had a reasonably well cared for battery bank the generator would only need to provide slightly more (25% perhaps) than your average consumption to ensure that the batteries were charged as well as possible. > One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel it is > a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is > probably acceptable for most transport applications in this regard, > better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to > standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities.

Many sustainable communities do not consider mechanised travel as a necessity. OK. You may need some short distance, high pulling power vehicles to assist with the physical aspects of farming. There are many ways of achieving that without resorting to internal combustion engines. > Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs all > sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the energy > content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary or > desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem preferable in > most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are engine > types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water contents. > Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very favorably to > even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission > standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient to > start with.

Using a blower increases the heat output and probably helps in ensuring that the combustion products are cleaner due to the higher temparatures achieved (less dioxins etc). High efficiency Single Speed Stirling Cycle Engines would suit a hybrid arrangement quite well I think. > One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a > household that operates without battery storage or grid connection.

If you add the battery storage sized as I have indicated above then the CHP does not have to churn out as much on-demand energy. You can also tune the efficiency of the generating plant such that it was always working near its optimum efficiency. The waste heat from this can still be plenty enough to run a cooking range and water heater. > Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, perhaps > even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite saving > on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. > Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at retail > without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth 500% > plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a > households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn clippings, > etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass required > would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be required on a > larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural of > forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and > automatic feed systems are possible.

If you have some space the fermentation route will provide a reasonable gas fuel (methane) and solid matter suitable for spreading on the agricultural land as compost/fertiliser. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), are > but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or less. > This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate for > very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be even > more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include farm, > forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on > emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far cheaper > fuel than oil. > So how should this be done… > Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat an > power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few hundred a > year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps with > steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the coal > systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are many > possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. > Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but it also > seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured technical > approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what is > required to make them happen?  This looks like something that could be > developed on the cheap.

I think that many of the most viable ones have been covered here from time to time. My interest is in systems for my next boat (bigger and intended for permanent life afloat). No consideration for car ownership as I wouldn’t have anywhere to drive one. — Forth based HIDECS Consultancy …..<http://www.amleth.demon.co.uk/> Tel: +44 (0)1235-811095 …. see http://www.feabhas.com for details. Going Forth Safely ….. EBA. www.electric-boat-association.org.uk..

Response:

Doing steam from burning biomass required some license to operate such a boiler. If you want to have a minimun of effiency you need condenser at the output of the genenrator.  I worked in design of biomass furnace (1 to 6 thermal megawatts) and it is not like fireplaces. One pound/hr of wet biomass contains about 3500 btus roughly 1 Kw/h. So if you want to get 5Kw of electricity from biomass you need: Efficiency boiler: 85% Efficiency generator: 30% or less Power usage for the fans, conveyors: 1Kw So you need (5kW+1kW)/(0.85*0.3)=23kW from fuel input =23 pounds/hr of biomass. Ash content of wood=6% 23 lb*0.006=1.38 lb/hr of ashes Hydrogen content of biomass is also about 6% so not very useful. Gaseification of wood produce mostly CO not very much Hydrogen.  You system must be airsealed of you can get CO into your house.  Not easy as it could look. This is definitely not a fireplace. At a larger scale, where there is a sawmill near with residues available, it could be cheaper to heat with wood residues than natural gaz.  We did a wood fuelled heating system for a large greenhouse (800ft X 800ft). They save 4 million $ a year of natural gas. Martin G. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying to > figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches. > Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, > household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale to > current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense in > specific energy crops at this stage. > One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel it is > a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is > probably acceptable for most transport applications in this regard, > better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to > standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities. > Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs all > sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the energy > content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary or > desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem preferable in > most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are engine > types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water contents. > Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very favorably to > even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission > standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient to > start with. > One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a > household that operates without battery storage or grid connection. > Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, perhaps > even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite saving > on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. > Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at retail > without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth 500% > plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a > households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn clippings, > etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass required > would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be required on a > larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural of > forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and > automatic feed systems are possible. > Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), are > but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or less. > This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate for > very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be even > more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include farm, > forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on > emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far cheaper > fuel than oil. > So how should this be done… > Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat an > power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few hundred a > year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps with > steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the coal > systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are many > possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. > Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but it also > seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured technical > approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what is > required to make them happen?  This looks like something that could be > developed on the cheap. > Pete.

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Response:

It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, or ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the veggie oils can be used straight in a standard diesel engine. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have been doing a bit of thinking about biomass recently, trying to > figure out what are the most economically attractive approaches. > Primarily I am considering biomass waste, forestry, agricultural, > household, etc.  Such waste energy sources are comparable in scale to > current world energy needs and I do not particularly see the sense in > specific energy crops at this stage. > One of the great advantages of biomass is that as a chemical fuel it is > a great high density energy storage medium, so much so that it is > probably acceptable for most transport applications in this regard, > better than hydrogen anyway.  :-)  Hence it is also applicable to > standalone power supplies, this raises a number of possibilities. > Processing biomass into higher quality fuels is expensive, incurs all > sorts of collection and distribution drawbacks and reduces the energy > content.  There is no real technical reason why this is necessary or > desirable, engines that burn biomass directly would seem preferable in > most cases.  Waste heat can be used for drying, or there are engine > types possible that are fairly indifferent to even high water contents. > Emissions are a problem though would generally compare very favorably to > even the best fireplaces.  Use in locations where strict emission > standards apply could come later, the rural market is sufficient to > start with. > One obvious application is a combined heat and power system for a > household that operates without battery storage or grid connection. > Such could operate on mulched plant matter and household waste, perhaps > even including sewerage, fuels could largely be collected onsite saving > on fuel distribution costs and even saving on disposal costs. > Economically this purchases fuel at wholesale and sells it at retail > without distribution costs, financially this is probably worth 500% > plus.  General household waste might supply perhaps a quarter of a > households energy requirements, add garden waste like lawn clippings, > etc., and you might be up to a half.  I doubt extra biomass required > would cost more than a $100 a year, not that this would be required on a > larger section.  Mulched plant matter, whether it be agricultural of > forestry waste, should be far cheaper and easier than firewood and > automatic feed systems are possible. > Further, biomass energy costs, (probably similar to coal in bulk), are > but a small proportion of that of oil, perhaps 20% of the cost, or less. > This is a very strong economic incentive and would even compensate for > very poor efficiency.  Remote areas beyond grid connect would be even > more economically attractive.  Other obvious applications include farm, > forestry and earth moving machinery, cars and trucks depending on > emissions, ships, etc.  Such a system could also use coal, a far cheaper > fuel than oil. > So how should this be done… > Direct gasification into an ICE?  Such a household combined heat an > power system should only cost a few thousand dollars, a few hundred a > year, less than what most pay for electricity alone.  Or perhaps with > steam reformation and filtering through a fuel cell, (like the coal > systems), or similar hydrogen ICE?  Steam turbines?  There are many > possible systems, some using cheap and primitive technology. > Not only does this approach seem to solve a lot of problems, but it also > seems to be economically far cheaper.  What are the favoured technical > approaches?  How do they compare?  How far off are they and what is > required to make them happen?  This looks like something that could be > developed on the cheap. > Pete.

Response:

> It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, > or ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the > veggie oils can be used straight in a standard diesel engine.

Forgive me for invoking the second law but this extra energy magically comes from…? Pete.

Response:

From the Sun …… Second Law not violated. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, > or ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the > veggie oils can be used straight in a standard diesel engine. > Forgive me for invoking the second law but this extra energy magically > comes from…? > Pete.

Response:

<snip much good stuff> > If you add the battery storage sized as I have indicated above > then the CHP does not have to churn out as much on-demand > energy. You can also tune the efficiency of the generating plant > such that it was always working near its optimum efficiency. The > waste heat from this can still be plenty enough to run a cooking > range and water heater.

Biomass is a far cheaper energy storage medium than a battery.  An ICE generating system sized for peak load can be much cheaper than a load leveling battery system.  Fuel is cheap so efficiency is of little concern, though generating AC directly would still likely be more efficient.  Hence you do not want to use a battery system at all.  This is one of the prime advantages of using biomass in the first place, an economic niche. Pete.

Response:

<snip> > This is definitely not a fireplace.

That it most definitely is not. :-)  The new improved fireplace angle might get around various emission requirements. I was thinking that the biomass would likely want to be gasified/combusted at high pressure.  Use the moisture directly, either through your engine, (hence steam turbine type thinking, sort of combined cycles), or to increase hydrogen output.  I figured 5-10 ton per year equivalent dry biomass would be sufficient to run a household for a year  Compared to perhaps 1-2 ton of gas/oil or 2-3 ton of coal which such a biomass engine could likely also burn. I am trying to redefine the general characteristics such a system should have, based on economic niches, before re-embracing the technical. Hence the use you biomass as energy storage argument, no batteries, and biomass is cheaper than oil, no energy distribution, etc. Pete.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> From the Sun …… Second Law not violated. > — > Steve Spence > Renewable energy and sustainable living > http://www.green-trust.org > Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel > powered diesels at > http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/ > > It’s very simple to convert biomass into vegetable oils, biodiesel, > > or ethanol, at varying positive energy ratio’s from 1.5 to 4x. the > > veggie oils can be used straight in a standard diesel engine. > Forgive me for invoking the second law but this extra energy magically > comes from…? > Pete.

I assume that you are inferring something like the hydrogenation of biomass using alternate solar energy like solar cells or wind energy, for example. Assuming your alternate energy source costs say 0.05 cents/kWhr and biomass costs say 0.005 cents/kWhr, using the former to save the later would seem unwise except in the most extreme of circumstances.  Using the cheaper energy derived from the biomass instead, (like the anything to oil process), still incurs unnecessary loses and significant collection, processing and distribution costs.  Hence I would not generally advise this either, except where other factors dominate. Pete.

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Um, in a word, no. We are crushing crops for the vegetable oils and burning them directly in a diesel engine. We also collect waste vegetable oil from restaurants. They pay us to do this. No solar or wind is necessary. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Discuss vegetable oil and biodiesel powered diesels at http://www.veggievan.org/discuss/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I assume that you are inferring something like the hydrogenation of > biomass using alternate solar energy like solar cells or wind energy, > for example. > Assuming your alternate energy source costs say 0.05 cents/kWhr and > biomass costs say 0.005 cents/kWhr, using the former to save the later > would seem unwise except in the most extreme of circumstances.  Using > the cheaper energy derived from the biomass instead, (like the anything > to oil process), still incurs unnecessary loses and significant > collection, processing and distribution costs.  Hence I would not > generally advise this either, except where other factors dominate. > Pete.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > <snip much good stuff> > If you add the battery storage sized as I have indicated above > then the CHP does not have to churn out as much on-demand > energy. You can also tune the efficiency of the generating plant > such that it was always working near its optimum efficiency. The > waste heat from this can still be plenty enough to run a cooking > range and water heater. > Biomass is a far cheaper energy storage medium than a battery.  An ICE > generating system sized for peak load can be much cheaper than a load > leveling battery system.

It is not usual to consider ICE (internal combustion engines) as suitable for this role, at least in urban environments because their emisions are to hard to control. Stirling, Gas Turbine and perhaps SOFC fuel cells are more suitable > Fuel is cheap so efficiency is of little > concern, though generating AC directly would still likely be more > efficient.

Biomass i don’t think is NOT cheap unless you have acres of spare land.   An acre of land can grown 6-9 tons of dried wood per year. Each kg of wood has an energy content of 13500kj (about 3.5kw.hr) compared to oil (42000kj or 11.2kw.hr per kg). In any mass use of biomass its higher expense to simply digging up coal would become apparent. There is I think vast amounts of rotting vegetation and garbage that seems to be unexploited. It’s not clear to me what you mean by biomass.  Do you mean wood and similar material gasified? Or do you mean sewerage or animal wastes or perhaps fermented materials that given of methane? > Hence you do not want to use a battery system at all.  This > is one of the prime advantages of using biomass in the first place, an > economic niche.

Most ICE, Stirling Engines and Gas Turbines will only covert 1/3rd of your biomass into electricity.   To make it work you to use the exaust heat to make hot water, heat the house and perhpas even cook. Unless you have storage you will have to keep you biomass engine running to supply the intermitant load of your refridgerator or a 25 watt bulb in the outhouse. You will also have to double or trebble the consumption of wood.   For instance a well designed system migh get away with 8kg of wood for a family of 4 home.  If you don’t use the waste heat you would need to find at least twice that amount. There really isn’t to much difficulty in integrating a hot water tank with the engine so that the engine exhast and radiator heat the water in the tank.  Part of it would be used to provide hot washing water and the remaineder circulated to heating grills in the house.   (this system could probably run on hydrogen, woodgas and natrual gas with equal ease) One way might be to store the 2-3 (probably) cubic meters of gas at low pressure or in a bladder and keep a tiny 100-200 watt stirling or wankel engine running permanently an only start a larger engine when required.   The 200 watt engine could rev up to 500 watts and its waste heat would provide hot water for hom heating etc. I can’t see how you could keep a wood gasifier going all day. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pete.

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Question:

From Cleopatra to Columbia Randy Udall It is now apparent that the space shuttle Columbia was in trouble long before it broke up over Texas last February. Within hours of the tragedy,disturbing photos taken by California astronomers were posted to the Internet. In these images,the streaking shuttle shone like a torch.Off to the side were smaller bright spots,fluttering down and away. These,NASA believes,were omens of disaster,heat shield tiles shedding from the left wing. As superheated plasma fed into the breach,it melted the wing ’s aluminum skeleton, dooming the reentry. When the first tiles came off,the astronauts were traveling 15,000 miles an hour. Six minutes later,and 1,500 miles to the east,their ship disintegrated over Texas. >From time to time,I lecture about energy issues,and before this accident,I

had often compared our industrial civilization to a space shuttle,the world ’s most sophisticated flying machine. The shuttle,like the civilization,has an enormous energy appetite. During launch,each of its six fuel pumps consumes as much energy as a city of 50,000.At full thrust,its main engines could power California. As a child of the space age,I remember watching John Glenn ’s first orbital mission in 1962. It was a quick trip – three laps at 17,544 miles an hour.In a few hours aloft, Glenn clocked 80,000 miles. The original astronauts were revered as a special breed. Lately,though,I ‘ve begun to wonder if all of us aren ‘t,in some curious way,as energy- rich and speed-drunk as any NASA pilot. John Glenn and John Doe have more in common than they suspect. A typical baby boomer,for example,will drive and fly more than a million miles during his or her lifetime,equal to forty trips around the planet. Magellan and Amelia Earhart were the famous circumnavigators of their day. But now every man is Magellan,every woman Amelia. Even if you never fly,it ’s still possible to log a million miles. Many commuters drive 20,000 miles per year,the distance to the Moon every twelve years. I own a rusty Volvo with 250,000 miles on it.It ’s been to the Moon,and is on its way back. Our fantastic hypermobility is taken for granted. This afternoon you could drive to the nearest airport,book a flight for Paris,and fly the Atlantic just like Lindbergh did in 1927. He was greeted by thousands of awestruck Frenchmen,and like Glenn,would be a hero for life. You? You can gripe about the airline food or carp about security. So,how did we get here -to this place where 50 mph seems slow,where jet lag is an occupational hazard,where speed rules? If as someone once wrote,"Your soul can only travel at the speed of a camel," there must be millions of plodding souls out there,searching the barren wastes, wondering where in the blazes their owners went. Our world is so dominated by machines and motors (50 in a typical home)that it ’s easy to forget that most of human history has been powered by muscle. In his book,Prime Mover:The Natural History of Muscle ,Steven Vogel describes how muscle makes up 40 percent of our weight,that nature perfected muscle a billion years ago,that muscle powers ant and elephant alike,that "flies fly with it,clams clam up with it." To watch bicyclist Lance Armstrong hammer up the French Alps is to see muscle returned to its former glory. As every backpacker quickly learns,a muscle-powered world has a different rhythm,a slower tempo. Writing about the Lewis and Clark expedition,author Stephen Ambrose explained,"In 1800,nothing moved faster than the speed of a horse.No human being,no manufactured item,no bushel of wheat,side of beef,no letter,no information,no idea,order,or instruction moved faster.Nothing ever had moved any faster and,most people thought, nothing ever would." By canoe and horseback,it took Lewis and Clark two-and-a-half years to travel from St.Louis to the Pacific Ocean and back. Paddling down- stream on the swollen Missouri,they may have broached 8 miles an hour, but that was their speed limit. To go faster than this,you need a machine of some sort.On flat ground,Armstrong can pedal his bike about 30 miles an hour,generating about one-half horse- power for short periods. If men or women work in unison,it ’s possible to develop more power,and Cleopatra offers a nice example. Her idea of a good time was to have 60 slaves row her along the Nile. Tugging on the oars,with some encouragement from the lash,this crew could produce about eight or ten horsepower. Put differently,the queen of Egypt,the world ’s richest woman,had about 200 times less power at her disposal than a typical soccer mom in an SUV. Unlike muscle,aka meat,the ancient edible engine, machinery is quite new. Go outside and pop the hood of your car. There in your driveway sits an engine more powerful than anything on the planet two hundred years ago.Your neighbor has one,too. From an energy perspective, both of you are astoundingly rich. Cars have not been good for civic life,climate protection, or land use planning. But the engines manufactured by car companies each year are more powerful than all the world ’s electric power plants combined. American automobiles consume about four times more energy each day,in the form of gasoline and diesel,than we humans do in the form of food. They,not we,are the planet ’s dominant life form. Photovoltaic panels and wind turbines and sailboats run on flows of energy. But machines must be stoked with fuels. Wood,of course,is the original. Towards the end of their empire,the Romans had built an entire fleet of ships to import wood from France and North Africa. Whenever wood ran short,and wherever geology permitted,people burned coal. In her book Coal:A Human History ,Barbara Freese describes how some Chinese miners used to work what they called the "big shift," living in the mine for a month at a time,digging,eating,sleeping, smoking opium,and even doing laundry underground. Coal has long kept people warm,and still does in many places,but it took a genius to turn coal into motion and thus spark the Industrial Revolution. His name is found on every light bulb and solar panel -James Watt,the famed Scottish inventor of the steam engine. From coal came steam and iron,and the three quickly learned how to feed on each other. The poet Emerson was among the first to grasp the implications."Coal is a portable climate," he wrote. "Watt whispered in the ear of mankind his secret,that a half-ounce of coal will draw two tons a mile,and coal carries coal,by rail and by boat,to make Canada as warm as Calcutta,and with its comfort brings industrial power." Today,coal seems like a retro fuel,but more than half of U.S.electricity comes from burning it,and the Chinese have more coal miners than soldiers. If coal and steam feed on each other, so too do energy and ingenuity. In 1903, the Wright Brothers,bachelor bicycle mechanics,deciphered the rules of flight and built the pieces of the world ’s first airplane,lashing them together with muslin cord.Wilbur Wright,in particular,was brilliant,a total genius. Their plane was powered with gasoline donated by John D.Rockefeller and a four-cylinder,12- horsepower engine that the Wrights built above their bike shop. When Wilbur flew around the Statute of Liberty in 1905,he lashed a canoe below the wing in case of a water landing. Sixty-six years later,Americans were driving on the moon. The essayist Loren Eiseley wrote,"Man ’s long adventure with knowledge has been a climb up the heat ladder . The creature that crept furred through the blue glacial nights now lives surrounded by the hiss of steam,the roar of engines,and the bubbling of vats. And he is himself a great flame,a great roaring wasteful furnace,devouring irreplaceable substances of the earth." Those of us alive today tend to believe that we are living in a normal time,that malls and expressways are the nature of things. From an energy perspective,however,this is lunacy. In recent times,we have read about the Pashtuns, Uzbeks,and Tajiks in central Asia,strange tribes with curious customs. But contemporary Americans are arguably the world ’s most exotic people,members of the Oil Tribe. Daily energy flows in the U.S.are now a million British thermal units per person. This is the energy equivalent of eight gallons of gasoline or 100 pounds of coal. The queen of Egypt, the world’s richest woman, had about 200 times less power at her disposal than a typical soccer mom in an SUV. One million BTUs is also roughly equivalent to how much energy it would take to ride a bike 25,000 miles.Or the amount of energy contained in a bolt of lightning.This is America – explosive,lit up,mobile,jacked to the nines. The defining ritual of our culture is not Monday Night Football or church on Sunday;it is pulling into a gas station to fill ‘er up. Per person,we Americans now consume 140 pounds of petroleum products each week -nearly our body weight every seven days. Petroleum is more addictive than cocaine,and for a culture like ours,all roads eventually lead to Baghdad,to the Persian Gulf,to five Muslim nations that own half the world ’s remaining oil. We Americans are as dependent on oil as the Sioux were on bison. But whereas they celebrated the beast in dance, story,and ritual,we pull into the 7-Eleven,buy 20 gallons and whine about the cost. We ought to have a holiday dedicated to petroleum,or at least bow to Mecca when we buy it. And the fact that we don ‘t says something troubling about us. I ‘m left with two questions.If our oil-driven civilization can be compared to a space shuttle,have the first tiles already come off? How stable is our Starship Enterprise? And it ’s not just the 150,000 soldiers we ‘ve sent to Iraq, and the other soldiers fighting proxy oil wars on our behalf in Colombia,Kuwait,Qatar,Kazakhstan,and Indonesia that concern me. Last summer,we also had the spectacle of Federal Reserve chairman Alan Greenspan testifying to … read more »

Response:

  typed: >So maybe it ’s a good time to learn about energy,learn about home >power,learn about how we might capture some of that sunlight hitting the >roof,which has traveled 93 million miles in eight minutes,photons hauling >ass. If we ‘ve climbed up Eiseley ’s heat ladder,our children and >grandchildren may have to climb back down.So maybe we ought to spend less >money driving to the Moon,and a bit more on compact fluorescent lights,which >can reduce our greenhouse gas debts,and on photovoltaic panels,which >outliving us,are a gift we can give our descendants, Godspeed on their >journey. You and I are traveling awfully fast,but no one ever said that >members of the Oil Tribe couldn ‘t join the Sun Clan, celebrate the >Solstice,and rearrange our priorities. It ’s an unusual moment in human >history.Maybe speed and power aren ‘t everything they ‘ve been cracked up to >be.If we slowed down a bit,let the engine cool,maybe our souls could finally >catch up.

graphically and poetically put…thanx for posting it… regards…. — web site at www.abelard.org – news and comment service, logic,     energy, education, politics, etc >700,000 document calls yearly   all that is necessary for       []     walk quietly and carry   the triumph of evil is that      []           a big stick.   good people do nothing     []   trust actions not words                     only when it’s funny — roger rabbit

Response:

You`re not quite right again Dan; NASA haven`t discovered Antigravity yet! — Ashley Clarke

Response:

> You`re not quite right again Dan; > NASA haven`t discovered Antigravity yet!

??????? Please try to relate the above to that which was posted : From Cleopatra to Columbia Randy Udall It is now apparent that the space shuttle Columbia was in trouble long before it broke up over Texas last February. Within hours of the tragedy,disturbing photos taken by California astronomers were posted to the Internet. In these images,the streaking shuttle shone like a torch.Off to the side were smaller bright spots,fluttering down and away. These,NASA believes,were omens of disaster,heat shield tiles shedding from the left wing. As superheated plasma fed into the breach,it melted the wing ’s aluminum skeleton, dooming the reentry. When the first tiles came off,the astronauts were traveling 15,000 miles an hour. Six minutes later,and 1,500 miles to the east,their ship disintegrated over Texas. >From time to time,I lecture about energy issues,and before this accident,I

had often compared our industrial civilization to a space shuttle,the world ’s most sophisticated flying machine. The shuttle,like the civilization,has an enormous energy appetite. During launch,each of its six fuel pumps consumes as much energy as a city of 50,000.At full thrust,its main engines could power California. As a child of the space age,I remember watching John Glenn ’s first orbital mission in 1962. It was a quick trip – three laps at 17,544 miles an hour.In a few hours aloft, Glenn clocked 80,000 miles. The original astronauts were revered as a special breed. Lately,though,I ‘ve begun to wonder if all of us aren ‘t,in some curious way,as energy- rich and speed-drunk as any NASA pilot. John Glenn and John Doe have more in common than they suspect. A typical baby boomer,for example,will drive and fly more than a million miles during his or her lifetime,equal to forty trips around the planet. Magellan and Amelia Earhart were the famous circumnavigators of their day. But now every man is Magellan,every woman Amelia. Even if you never fly,it ’s still possible to log a million miles. Many commuters drive 20,000 miles per year,the distance to the Moon every twelve years. I own a rusty Volvo with 250,000 miles on it.It ’s been to the Moon,and is on its way back. Our fantastic hypermobility is taken for granted. This afternoon you could drive to the nearest airport,book a flight for Paris,and fly the Atlantic just like Lindbergh did in 1927. He was greeted by thousands of awestruck Frenchmen,and like Glenn,would be a hero for life. You? You can gripe about the airline food or carp about security. So,how did we get here -to this place where 50 mph seems slow,where jet lag is an occupational hazard,where speed rules? If as someone once wrote,"Your soul can only travel at the speed of a camel," there must be millions of plodding souls out there,searching the barren wastes, wondering where in the blazes their owners went. Our world is so dominated by machines and motors (50 in a typical home)that it ’s easy to forget that most of human history has been powered by muscle. In his book,Prime Mover:The Natural History of Muscle ,Steven Vogel describes how muscle makes up 40 percent of our weight,that nature perfected muscle a billion years ago,that muscle powers ant and elephant alike,that "flies fly with it,clams clam up with it." To watch bicyclist Lance Armstrong hammer up the French Alps is to see muscle returned to its former glory. As every backpacker quickly learns,a muscle-powered world has a different rhythm,a slower tempo. Writing about the Lewis and Clark expedition,author Stephen Ambrose explained,"In 1800,nothing moved faster than the speed of a horse.No human being,no manufactured item,no bushel of wheat,side of beef,no letter,no information,no idea,order,or instruction moved faster.Nothing ever had moved any faster and,most people thought, nothing ever would." By canoe and horseback,it took Lewis and Clark two-and-a-half years to travel from St.Louis to the Pacific Ocean and back. Paddling down- stream on the swollen Missouri,they may have broached 8 miles an hour, but that was their speed limit. To go faster than this,you need a machine of some sort.On flat ground,Armstrong can pedal his bike about 30 miles an hour,generating about one-half horse- power for short periods. If men or women work in unison,it ’s possible to develop more power,and Cleopatra offers a nice example. Her idea of a good time was to have 60 slaves row her along the Nile. Tugging on the oars,with some encouragement from the lash,this crew could produce about eight or ten horsepower. Put differently,the queen of Egypt,the world ’s richest woman,had about 200 times less power at her disposal than a typical soccer mom in an SUV. Unlike muscle,aka meat,the ancient edible engine, machinery is quite new. Go outside and pop the hood of your car. There in your driveway sits an engine more powerful than anything on the planet two hundred years ago.Your neighbor has one,too. From an energy perspective, both of you are astoundingly rich. Cars have not been good for civic life,climate protection, or land use planning. But the engines manufactured by car companies each year are more powerful than all the world ’s electric power plants combined. American automobiles consume about four times more energy each day,in the form of gasoline and diesel,than we humans do in the form of food. They,not we,are the planet ’s dominant life form. Photovoltaic panels and wind turbines and sailboats run on flows of energy. But machines must be stoked with fuels. Wood,of course,is the original. Towards the end of their empire,the Romans had built an entire fleet of ships to import wood from France and North Africa. Whenever wood ran short,and wherever geology permitted,people burned coal. In her book Coal:A Human History ,Barbara Freese describes how some Chinese miners used to work what they called the "big shift," living in the mine for a month at a time,digging,eating,sleeping, smoking opium,and even doing laundry underground. Coal has long kept people warm,and still does in many places,but it took a genius to turn coal into motion and thus spark the Industrial Revolution. His name is found on every light bulb and solar panel -James Watt,the famed Scottish inventor of the steam engine. From coal came steam and iron,and the three quickly learned how to feed on each other. The poet Emerson was among the first to grasp the implications."Coal is a portable climate," he wrote. "Watt whispered in the ear of mankind his secret,that a half-ounce of coal will draw two tons a mile,and coal carries coal,by rail and by boat,to make Canada as warm as Calcutta,and with its comfort brings industrial power." Today,coal seems like a retro fuel,but more than half of U.S.electricity comes from burning it,and the Chinese have more coal miners than soldiers. If coal and steam feed on each other, so too do energy and ingenuity. In 1903, the Wright Brothers,bachelor bicycle mechanics,deciphered the rules of flight and built the pieces of the world ’s first airplane,lashing them together with muslin cord.Wilbur Wright,in particular,was brilliant,a total genius. Their plane was powered with gasoline donated by John D.Rockefeller and a four-cylinder,12- horsepower engine that the Wrights built above their bike shop. When Wilbur flew around the Statute of Liberty in 1905,he lashed a canoe below the wing in case of a water landing. Sixty-six years later,Americans were driving on the moon. The essayist Loren Eiseley wrote,"Man ’s long adventure with knowledge has been a climb up the heat ladder . The creature that crept furred through the blue glacial nights now lives surrounded by the hiss of steam,the roar of engines,and the bubbling of vats. And he is himself a great flame,a great roaring wasteful furnace,devouring irreplaceable substances of the earth." Those of us alive today tend to believe that we are living in a normal time,that malls and expressways are the nature of things. From an energy perspective,however,this is lunacy. In recent times,we have read about the Pashtuns, Uzbeks,and Tajiks in central Asia,strange tribes with curious customs. But contemporary Americans are arguably the world ’s most exotic people,members of the Oil Tribe. Daily energy flows in the U.S.are now a million British thermal units per person. This is the energy equivalent of eight gallons of gasoline or 100 pounds of coal. The queen of Egypt, the world’s richest woman, had about 200 times less power at her disposal than a typical soccer mom in an SUV. One million BTUs is also roughly equivalent to how much energy it would take to ride a bike 25,000 miles.Or the amount of energy contained in a bolt of lightning.This is America – explosive,lit up,mobile,jacked to the nines. The defining ritual of our culture is not Monday Night Football or church on Sunday;it is pulling into a gas station to fill ‘er up. Per person,we Americans now consume 140 pounds of petroleum products each week -nearly our body weight every seven days. Petroleum is more addictive than cocaine,and for a culture like ours,all roads eventually lead to Baghdad,to the Persian Gulf,to five Muslim nations that own half the world ’s remaining oil. We Americans are as dependent on oil as the Sioux were on bison. But whereas they celebrated the beast in dance, story,and ritual,we pull into the 7-Eleven,buy 20 gallons and whine about the cost. We ought to have a holiday dedicated to petroleum,or at least bow to Mecca when we buy it. And the fact that we don ‘t says something troubling about us. I ‘m left with two questions.If our oil-driven civilization can be compared to a space shuttle,have the first tiles already come off? How stable is our Starship Enterprise? And it ’s not just the 150,000 … read more »

Response:

Question:

Hi all, I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of an electrical blackout. Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve fails to open, no ignition of main burner. Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, as it does on mains supply. Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere with the operation of the main valve solenoid? Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. Thanks! Efskeff

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi all, >I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup >electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of >an electrical blackout. >Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction >motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark >igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. >It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas >valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve >fails to open, no ignition of main burner. >Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to >open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, >as it does on mains supply. >Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do >some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere >with the operation of the main valve solenoid? >Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m >unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s >someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. >Thanks! >Efskeff

Any chance the main valve is triggered on by a wall thermostat? And the wall thermostat is powered by a remote 24v transformer somewhere that isn’t getting inverter power? zero

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi all, >I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup >electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of >an electrical blackout. >Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction >motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark >igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. >It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas >valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve >fails to open, no ignition of main burner. >Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to >open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, >as it does on mains supply. >Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do >some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere >with the operation of the main valve solenoid? >Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m >unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s >someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. >Thanks! >Efskeff >Any chance the main valve is triggered on by a wall thermostat? >And the wall thermostat is powered by a remote 24v transformer >somewhere that isn’t getting inverter power? >zero

Not too much chance of that, as the thermostat is what triggers the ignition event to start with – and that apparently works. I’d say there  is a "gremlin" loose in there somewhere. I went through the same kind of hassle getting my furnace to run off my old (pre recoil start) Onan genset. The processor in the furnace got confused – because the governor was set high and the power was closer to 70hz than 60. I cranked the governor down from 3950 to  3600, and the furnace fired right up. I’d be inclined to suspect harmonics or overtones, and suggest you may just be better off with a modified square wave inverter. Real easy way to check – just borrow a UPS – a cheap old APC or MinuteMan would do fine – and see if THAT works.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > an electrical blackout. > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > fails to open, no ignition of main burner. > Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to > open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, > as it does on mains supply. > Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do > some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere > with the operation of the main valve solenoid? > Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m > unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s > someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. > Thanks! > Efskeff

Pure sine waves are really not pure, most that I have seen are really pulsed. A lot of pulses mind you but pulsed all the same.  Have you tried measuring the cycles? plug your vom in to the output of the inverter and set it to hz. Something close to 60 is good, above 65 or below 55 and you may have problems. Is the inverter grounded to the frame of the furnace? You could have an difference in ground potential that could be driving the power transformer for the valve nuts. WAGs all. I hope our answers lead you to the solution.

Response:

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone!   I think a ripple on the sine wave is the most likely explanation, but I don’t have the equipment to prove it – nor do I know anyone with a UPS that I could borrow! I wonder do *all* inverters have the same amount of ripple, or would it be worth trying another model until I find one that works?   (my supplier has a very understanding returns policy!) Efskeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > an electrical blackout. > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > fails to open, no ignition of main burner. > Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to > open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, > as it does on mains supply. > Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do > some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere > with the operation of the main valve solenoid? > Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m > unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s > someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. > Thanks! > Efskeff > Pure sine waves are really not pure, most that I have seen are really > pulsed. A lot of pulses mind you but pulsed all the same.  Have you tried > measuring the cycles? plug your vom in to the output of the inverter and set > it to hz. Something close to 60 is good, above 65 or below 55 and you may > have problems. > Is the inverter grounded to the frame of the furnace? You could have an > difference in ground potential that could be driving the power transformer > for the valve nuts. > WAGs all. I hope our answers lead you to the solution.

Response:

> Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone!   I think a ripple on the sine > wave is the most likely explanation, but I don’t have the equipment to > prove it – nor do I know anyone with a UPS that I could borrow! > I wonder do *all* inverters have the same amount of ripple, or would it > be worth trying another model until I find one that works?   (my > supplier has a very understanding returns policy!) > Efskeff

     1) I love your title for this thread!      2) Your idea of trying other inverters makes sense, but also a plain isolation transformer may clean up your waveform enough to help.  You could theoretically use a Sola-type transformer if your inverter truly outputs a sine wave, but I have found out the hard way that inverters and resonant transformers really don’t like each other. Vaughn

Response:

>It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas >valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve >fails to open, no ignition of main burner.

Dumb question on my part, but does the main burner ignite on mains power? I had a similar sequence with my furnace a year or two ago.  The problem turned out to be debris (actually a dead fly) that was blocking the orifice.  So due to sensors in the unit, the main gas valve never opened. PITA to find. — ron  (off the grid in Downeast Maine)

Response:

> Hi all, > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > an electrical blackout. > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > fails to open, no ignition of main burner.

Is this perhaps like my Honeywell valve which uses the rectifying power of the flame to sense its presence? Instead of having a traditional heat-to- millivolt generator sitting in the pilot flame, there is only the spark electrode and a grounded "flag" in the pilot flame? If so, the problem may be that your different power sources provide different amounts of airflow from your combustion fan, and thereby change the shape of the ionized cloud around the flame. When your genset was running too fast, its voltage was probably too high as well, and your fan was probably overactive. Unlike a heat operated sensor, the rectification sensor responds instantly – if the airflow past the pilot flame is right on the edge, the gust of air out of the main burner as the valve opens can be enough to turn off the sensor – and the main valve – instantly. In my case, my boiler would light fine if it had run recently enough for there to still be some fuel gas in the line from the valve, but if the fuel had all diffused away and plain air came out first, it would kill the sensor and click right back off. When you mentioned you saw a short current surge just as the valve tried to open, it sounded familiar…  I found I could adjust the position of the pilot and sensor assembly, and by trial- and-error found a position that works 100% with my old Onan and my Trace SW4024. These valves are also sensitive to grounding issues. Be sure you have good neutral and protective ground connections between inverter and boiler. Loren

Response:

>Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone!   I think a ripple on the sine >wave is the most likely explanation, but I don’t have the equipment to >prove it – nor do I know anyone with a UPS that I could borrow! >I wonder do *all* inverters have the same amount of ripple, or would it >be worth trying another model until I find one that works?   (my >supplier has a very understanding returns policy!)

Definitely a WIDE variation in power quality from one brand/model to another. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Efskeff > > Hi all, > > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > > an electrical blackout. > > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > > fails to open, no ignition of main burner. > > Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to > > open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, > > as it does on mains supply. > > Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do > > some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere > > with the operation of the main valve solenoid? > > Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m > > unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s > > someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. > > Thanks! > > Efskeff > Pure sine waves are really not pure, most that I have seen are really > pulsed. A lot of pulses mind you but pulsed all the same.  Have you tried > measuring the cycles? plug your vom in to the output of the inverter and set > it to hz. Something close to 60 is good, above 65 or below 55 and you may > have problems. > Is the inverter grounded to the frame of the furnace? You could have an > difference in ground potential that could be driving the power transformer > for the valve nuts. > WAGs all. I hope our answers lead you to the solution.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > an electrical blackout. > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > fails to open, no ignition of main burner. >Is this perhaps like my Honeywell valve which uses the rectifying power of >the flame to sense its presence? Instead of having a traditional heat-to- >millivolt generator sitting in the pilot flame, there is only the spark >electrode and a grounded "flag" in the pilot flame?

No, the furnace uses a hot plate ignitor / sensor with 3 wires . No spark electrode. >If so, the problem may be that your different power sources provide >different amounts of airflow from your combustion fan, and thereby change >the shape of the ionized cloud around the flame.

I rather doubt that is the case on this furnace, as both the inductor fan and the blower are DC fans with closed loop speed controls. > When your genset was >running too fast, its voltage was probably too high as well, and your fan >was probably overactive. Unlike a heat operated sensor, the rectification >sensor responds instantly – if the airflow past the pilot flame is right on >the edge, the gust of air out of the main burner as the valve opens can be >enough to turn off the sensor – and the main valve – instantly.

The voltage regulated to a maximum of 127 volts with the furnace connected. Less than 130 open circuit. With the governor cranked down the voltage didn’t change 2 volts IIRC. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->In my case, my boiler would light fine if it had run recently enough for >there to still be some fuel gas in the line from the valve, but if the fuel >had all diffused away and plain air came out first, it would kill the >sensor and click right back off. When you mentioned you saw a short current >surge just as the valve tried to open, it sounded familiar…  I found I >could adjust the position of the pilot and sensor assembly, and by trial- >and-error found a position that works 100% with my old Onan and my Trace >SW4024. >These valves are also sensitive to grounding issues. Be sure you have good >neutral and protective ground connections between inverter and boiler. >Loren

Response:

>     2) Your idea of trying other inverters makes sense, but also a plain >isolation transformer may clean up your waveform enough to help.  You could >theoretically use a Sola-type transformer if your inverter truly outputs a >sine wave, but I have found out the hard way that inverters and resonant >transformers really don’t like each other.

Could you elaborate?  I thought I’d read in Sola’s literature that you could feed their constant voltage transformers with square waves and get low-distortion sine waves at the output.  That was for the harmonically-neutralized type, of course.  I was tempted to try it until I read your posting. — CAUTION: Don’t look into laser beam with remaining eye.

Response:

>     2) Your idea of trying other inverters makes sense, but also a plain >isolation transformer may clean up your waveform enough to help.  You could >theoretically use a Sola-type transformer if your inverter truly outputs a >sine wave, but I have found out the hard way that inverters and resonant >transformers really don’t like each other. > Could you elaborate?

     The problem I had was just weeks ago and involved a CVT, but not one made by Sola.  (don’t know about the harmonically-neutralized thing, that is a new concept to me)  We installed a new commercial quality 1500 Watt UPS with perhaps a 500-watt load, which included a CVT.  It immediately smoked! Without thinking about the CVT, we replaced the UPS with a 3 KW unit of another make.  On battery, it grunted and was obviously not happy with the load.  We eliminated the CVT and solved the problem. Vaughn I thought I’d read in Sola’s literature that you could > feed their constant voltage transformers with square waves and get > low-distortion sine waves at the output.  That was for the > harmonically-neutralized type, of course.  I was tempted to try it until I > read your posting. > —

http://www.rdrop.com/users/billmc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> CAUTION: Don’t look into laser beam with remaining eye.

Response:

>>     2) Your idea of trying other inverters makes sense, but also a plain >isolation transformer may clean up your waveform enough to help.  You could >theoretically use a Sola-type transformer if your inverter truly outputs a >sine wave, but I have found out the hard way that inverters and resonant >transformers really don’t like each other. >Could you elaborate?  I thought I’d read in Sola’s literature that you could >feed their constant voltage transformers with square waves and get >low-distortion sine waves at the output.  That was for the >harmonically-neutralized type, of course.  I was tempted to try it until I >read your posting.

 It will work, but you get about half the power out you put in. The rest turns to HEAT. Some inverters just shut off when the sola resonates.

Response:

What model do you have? — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Donate $30 or more to Green Trust, and receive a copy of Joshua Tickell’s "From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank", the premier documentary of biodiesel and vegetable oil powered diesels.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > I recently bought a "pure" sine wave inverter to try to set up backup > electric power for my gas-fired central heating boiler, in the event of > an electrical blackout. > Boiler normally uses about 60W electric power for air fan (induction > motor), two solenoid-operated gas valves (pilot and main) and a spark > igniter.   Inverter is 150W, supposed to supply surge to 450W. > It runs the ignition sequence perfectly – air fan starts, pilot gas > valve opens, spark ignites pilot flame – then stops; main gas valve > fails to open, no ignition of main burner. > Digital multimeter reads no great voltage drop as main valve "tries" to > open, slight current surge to about 300mA before settling back to 240mA, > as it does on mains supply. > Does anybody know if "pure" sine wave inverters are really pure, or do > some of them have impure thoughts, i.e. harmonics that might interfere > with the operation of the main valve solenoid? > Or is some other reason likely to be the cause of the trouble?   I’m > unfamiliar with the quirks and foibles of inverters, so I hope there’s > someone out there who is more experienced in them than I am. > Thanks! > Efskeff

Response:

Question:

Well, I spent most of the day waiting for a furnace repair.  High of 19F in Baltimore today.  Brrrrr.  It was 56F in the house this morning.  So the repair guy shows finally at 4:30.  The igniter had cracked, rendering it useless.  An easy repair and I got the last one on the truck. We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit is hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty. Ready to try one of those in yer next homebrew? Phil

Response:

Hi, Yup, it’s called HSI(hot surface ignitor) which is nothing but heating element made of Si composite driven by 120V AC. Seems like they burn out or crack rendering useless every ~5 years. When flame is established, the flame sensor senses it and all is well until set temp. is reached then fan stops running by settable delay(30 sec to 1.5 mins). The flame sensor needs light rubbing with emery cloth to clean off the dust/rust build up. Otherwise it can get sluggish. Usually control module has LED which gives off error code when something is not right. You count the number of LED blinking to get the code. Glad your furnace is back in business. My house has two gas fire places, one wall mount heat exchanger(mainly used as A/C in summer) as back up. Came from visits to SPCA, no suitable dog this time. Going back tomorrow after noon after noon mass. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Well, I spent most of the day waiting for a furnace repair.  High of 19F in > Baltimore today.  Brrrrr.  It was 56F in the house this morning.  So the > repair guy shows finally at 4:30.  The igniter had cracked, rendering it > useless.  An easy repair and I got the last one on the truck. > We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. > The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through > it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit is > hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty. > Ready to try one of those in yer next homebrew? > Phil

Response:

> > We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. > The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through > it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit is > hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty. > Ready to try one of those in yer next homebrew?

I was going to say Mesa might try one in their next model (Quadruple Rectifier!?!), but after hanging in AGA for a few years, I’d wonder if it might be more appropriate in a Crate. Ooooh, am I gonna get *flamed* for this! Steve

Response:

Tony:

> Hi, > Yup, it’s called HSI(hot surface ignitor) which is nothing but heating > element made of Si composite driven by 120V AC. Seems like they burn out > or crack rendering useless every ~5 years.

It glows red and ignites the gas.  Quite a sight when you realize what you are looking at.  Looks like it’s made of material similar to the heating element in an electric oven. > When flame is established, the flame sensor senses it and all is well > until set temp. is reached then fan stops running by settable delay(30 > sec to 1.5 mins). The flame sensor needs light rubbing with emery cloth > to clean off the dust/rust build up. Otherwise it can get sluggish.

I watched the service guy do this to the flame sensor, so it’s good to know he knows his stuff. > Usually control module has LED which gives off error code when something > is not right. You count the number of LED blinking to get the code. > Glad your furnace is back in business.

Me, too!  And my family, too.  My house has two gas fire places, > one wall mount heat exchanger(mainly used as A/C in summer) as back up.

You live much further north.  Multiple heat sources make more sense. > Came from visits to SPCA, no suitable dog this time. Going back tomorrow > after noon after noon mass. > Tony

Animal shelters are hit and miss.  Eventually you’ll find a dog you like. Good luck. Phil – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, I spent most of the day waiting for a furnace repair.  High of 19F in > Baltimore today.  Brrrrr.  It was 56F in the house this morning.  So the > repair guy shows finally at 4:30.  The igniter had cracked, rendering it > useless.  An easy repair and I got the last one on the truck. > We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. > The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through > it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit is > hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty. > Ready to try one of those in yer next homebrew? > Phil

Response:

>We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. >The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through >it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit >is >hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty.

Yeah, flame rectification is a neat trick. We’ve got it on our gas range, GE calls it "automatic pilotless ignition".  It sparks when you turn on the gas, the knob doesn’t need a "light" position, just turn it on however you like. Once the flame ignites, a small AC charge is recitifed and the ignition module senses the current flow and then turns out the spark. If the flame blows it, it starts sparking again all by itself. The downside is it isn’t perfectly reliable – a small flame or dirt on the tip of the electrode will cause it to fail to sense the flame sometimes. But it is a good idea and prevents a gas build up in the event of a flame-out condition. The physics of it are pretty interesting. Google up flame rectification effect for more discussion. I had to figure all this out when we bought the house and the range wouldn’t stop sparking. Had to change the module out – not cheap at about $100. — Dr. Nuketopia Sorry, no e-Mail. Spam forgeries have resulted in thousands of faked bounces to my address.

Response:

Tony this doesn’t have anything to do with HSI.  It’s just the flame sensor and is used with both direct spark & HSI.  Both may be operated by a variety of controllers from several mfg’s and their delays & etc. are also a whole ‘nother.  A flame sensor rod should never be cleaned with emery cloth and particles or light fouling have no effect on it. It just gets brushed or washed off.  FWIW the HSI unit you’ve confused it with is delicate though, and easily ruined if anything touches it during removal/replacement.  HSI can be particularly problematic in condensing-type (highly efficient) gas boilers (mine), for any moisture also wrecks it.  Good ol’ direct spark.  Easy to adjust. BZzzzzttt….FOOoooof. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > Yup, it’s called HSI(hot surface ignitor) which is nothing but heating > element made of Si composite driven by 120V AC. Seems like they burn out > or crack rendering useless every ~5 years. > When flame is established, the flame sensor senses it and all is well > until set temp. is reached then fan stops running by settable delay(30 > sec to 1.5 mins). The flame sensor needs light rubbing with emery cloth > to clean off the dust/rust build up. Otherwise it can get sluggish. > Usually control module has LED which gives off error code when something > is not right. You count the number of LED blinking to get the code. > Glad your furnace is back in business. My house has two gas fire places, > one wall mount heat exchanger(mainly used as A/C in summer) as back up. > Came from visits to SPCA, no suitable dog this time. Going back tomorrow > after noon after noon mass. > Tony > Well, I spent most of the day waiting for a furnace repair.  High of 19F in > Baltimore today.  Brrrrr.  It was 56F in the house this morning.  So the > repair guy shows finally at 4:30.  The igniter had cracked, rendering it > useless.  An easy repair and I got the last one on the truck. > We chat while he works.  Turns out there is a flame rectifier in the unit. > The flame heats a metal rod, which rectifies the A/C current going through > it.  That sends a DC signal to the control board to let it know the unit is > hot and working properly.  I thought it was pretty nifty. > Ready to try one of those in yer next homebrew? > Phil

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Tony this doesn’t have anything to do with HSI.  It’s just the flame > sensor and is used with both direct spark & HSI.  Both may be operated > by a variety of controllers from several mfg’s and their delays & etc. > are also a whole ‘nother.  A flame sensor rod should never be cleaned > with emery cloth and particles or light fouling have no effect on it. > It just gets brushed or washed off.  FWIW the HSI unit you’ve confused > it with is delicate though, and easily ruined if anything touches it > during removal/replacement.  HSI can be particularly problematic in > condensing-type (highly efficient) gas boilers (mine), for any > moisture also wrecks it.  Good ol’ direct spark.  Easy to adjust. > BZzzzzttt….FOOoooof. >Hi, >Yup, it’s called HSI(hot surface ignitor) which is nothing but heating >element made of Si composite driven by 120V AC. Seems like they burn out >or crack rendering useless every ~5 years. >When flame is established, the flame sensor senses it and all is well >until set temp. is reached then fan stops running by settable delay(30 >sec to 1.5 mins). The flame sensor needs light rubbing with emery cloth >to clean off the dust/rust build up. Otherwise it can get sluggish. >Usually control module has LED which gives off error code when something >is not right. You count the number of LED blinking to get the code. >Glad your furnace is back in business. My house has two gas fire places, >one wall mount heat exchanger(mainly used as A/C in summer) as back up. >Came from visits to SPCA, no suitable dog this time. Going back tomorrow >after noon after noon mass. >Tony

Hi, Even in owner’s manual mentions about cleaning flame sensor. I worked for Honeywell for ~30 years but learned a lot over the shoulder. I belonged to Systems division. Not controls. Most serevice techs, first thing they do is rubbing it with fine sand paper. I use emery cloth. HVAC control circuit is not much complicated sequential logic. Tony

Response:

> Tony this doesn’t have anything to do with HSI.  It’s just the flame > sensor and is used with both direct spark & HSI.  Both may be operated > by a variety of controllers from several mfg’s and their delays & etc. > are also a whole ‘nother.  A flame sensor rod should never be cleaned > with emery cloth and particles or light fouling have no effect on it. > It just gets brushed or washed off.  FWIW the HSI unit you’ve confused > it with is delicate though, and easily ruined if anything touches it > during removal/replacement.  HSI can be particularly problematic in > condensing-type (highly efficient) gas boilers (mine), for any > moisture also wrecks it.  Good ol’ direct spark.  Easy to adjust. > BZzzzzttt….FOOoooof.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Hi, >>Yup, it’s called HSI(hot surface ignitor) which is nothing but heating >>element made of Si composite driven by 120V AC. Seems like they burn out >>or crack rendering useless every ~5 years. >>When flame is established, the flame sensor senses it and all is well >>until set temp. is reached then fan stops running by settable delay(30 >>sec to 1.5 mins). The flame sensor needs light rubbing with emery cloth >>to clean off the dust/rust build up. Otherwise it can get sluggish. >>Usually control module has LED which gives off error code when something >>is not right. You count the number of LED blinking to get the code. >>Glad your furnace is back in business. My house has two gas fire places, >>one wall mount heat exchanger(mainly used as A/C in summer) as back up. >>Came from visits to SPCA, no suitable dog this time. Going back tomorrow >>after noon after noon mass. >>Tony > Hi, > Even in owner’s manual mentions about cleaning flame sensor. > I worked for Honeywell for ~30 years but learned a lot over the shoulder. > I belonged to Systems division. Not controls. > Most serevice techs, first thing they do is rubbing it with fine > sand paper. I use emery cloth. > HVAC control circuit is not much complicated sequential logic. > Tony

I dunno.  I’ve got a Carrier Weathermaker 8000 furnace.  The service guy cleaned the recitifier sensor with something.  I wasn’t looking at what he used, but it sounded mildly abrasive.  He sure looked like he knew what to do and he handled the thing very carefully..  Anyhow, furnace is working well now.  It was a balmy 37F today and the dog got a walk without her sweater..  Maybe the heat bill will go down some. Phil

Response:

> I dunno.  I’ve got a Carrier Weathermaker 8000 furnace.  The service guy > cleaned the recitifier sensor with something.  I wasn’t looking at what he > used, but it sounded mildly abrasive.  He sure looked like he knew what to > do and he handled the thing very carefully..  Anyhow, furnace is working > well now.  It was a balmy 37F today and the dog got a walk without her > sweater..  Maybe the heat bill will go down some. > Phil

Hi, Phil Identical one here in my house. One burnt out HSI is the only problem I had since it was installed new in my house when it was built in ‘94. It heats 3000 SF two story w/o any problem. My house is air tight R2000 spec. one. Cooling in summer(SHORT season) is done by a heat exchanger in the sun room. We’re getting out of the cold snap as well. By week end, it’ll be just over freezing mark. Tony

Response:

Question:

Hi all, The power to my father’s ranch house is supplied by a Kubota diesel generator, which was originally used as a light-tower for highway workers.  After working well for many months, it has suddenly developed an elusive problem.  Can someone please offer some advice? Here is the information I have: *It runs fine for various amounts of time, then shuts off (from several minutes to several hours). *It has been to a shop, where they eliminated the oil-pressure/temperature monitoring circuit. *Both fuel filters have been replaced. *The fuel-shutoff solenoid was removed in order to eliminate it as the culprit. *An electric fuel pump was installed with no luck. *The shop measured fuel pressure, and reported a drop in pressure after running for a while.  They replaced the mechanical fuel pump (I believe they called it the lift pump).  They said the fuel pressure remains stable now. *After picking up the generator from the shop, it was hooked back up, and the same symptoms returned: Runs then shuts off suddenly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  This has turned out to be a real head scratcher!

Response:

Have you checked the ignition switch? Install a jumper on it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > The power to my father’s ranch house is supplied by a Kubota diesel > generator, which was originally used as a light-tower for highway > workers.  After working well for many months, it has suddenly > developed an elusive problem.  Can someone please offer some advice? > Here is the information I have: > *It runs fine for various amounts of time, then shuts off (from > several minutes to several hours). > *It has been to a shop, where they eliminated the > oil-pressure/temperature monitoring circuit. > *Both fuel filters have been replaced. > *The fuel-shutoff solenoid was removed in order to eliminate it as the > culprit. > *An electric fuel pump was installed with no luck. > *The shop measured fuel pressure, and reported a drop in pressure > after running for a while.  They replaced the mechanical fuel pump (I > believe they called it the lift pump).  They said the fuel pressure > remains stable now. > *After picking up the generator from the shop, it was hooked back up, > and the same symptoms returned: Runs then shuts off suddenly. > Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  This has turned out to be a > real head scratcher!

Response:

I think it was Mark Reynolds who said: > Hi all, > The power to my father’s ranch house is supplied by a Kubota diesel > generator, which was originally used as a light-tower for highway > workers.  After working well for many months, it has suddenly > developed an elusive problem.  Can someone please offer some advice? > Here is the information I have: > *It runs fine for various amounts of time, then shuts off (from > several minutes to several hours). > *It has been to a shop, where they eliminated the > oil-pressure/temperature monitoring circuit…..

Is the fuel return line clogged or pinched? Symptoms will be an "abnormal stop," as if you were gradually pulling the governor to the "no fuel" (engine stop) position, not a clean stop. Is the fuel cap venting system clogged? Forget "generator" for a moment and try Googling for Kubota diesel [engine model] and symptoms. That engine was (is) used in a lot more than lightplants. You might want to poke around/make some noise in here: <http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/Kubota_tractors16.html> Luck, F.T. — "Which port is it that you need to block [to make Windows secure]?" "You only have to block the port where the power cord goes into the computer." -From a Slashdot discussion

Response:

Electronic  ignition? Many times if  the module is going heat will cause it to fail, but it will run when cold. Cheers?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all, > The power to my father’s ranch house is supplied by a Kubota diesel > generator, which was originally used as a light-tower for highway > workers.  After working well for many months, it has suddenly > developed an elusive problem.  Can someone please offer some advice? > Here is the information I have: > *It runs fine for various amounts of time, then shuts off (from > several minutes to several hours). > *It has been to a shop, where they eliminated the > oil-pressure/temperature monitoring circuit. > *Both fuel filters have been replaced. > *The fuel-shutoff solenoid was removed in order to eliminate it as the > culprit. > *An electric fuel pump was installed with no luck. > *The shop measured fuel pressure, and reported a drop in pressure > after running for a while.  They replaced the mechanical fuel pump (I > believe they called it the lift pump).  They said the fuel pressure > remains stable now. > *After picking up the generator from the shop, it was hooked back up, > and the same symptoms returned: Runs then shuts off suddenly. > Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  This has turned out to be a > real head scratcher!

Response:

>Electronic  ignition?

Dunno for sure, but I’d think if his diesel had electronic ignition problems he’s going to be a long time finding them…  8*) — William Smith ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

Response:

Ahh yes, momentary lapse of reason. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Electronic  ignition? > Dunno for sure, but I’d think if his diesel had electronic ignition > problems he’s going to be a long time finding them…  8*) > — > William Smith > ComputerSmiths Consulting, Inc.    www.compusmiths.com

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all, > The power to my father’s ranch house is supplied by a Kubota diesel > generator, which was originally used as a light-tower for highway > workers.  After working well for many months, it has suddenly > developed an elusive problem.  Can someone please offer some advice? > Here is the information I have: > *It runs fine for various amounts of time, then shuts off (from > several minutes to several hours). > *It has been to a shop, where they eliminated the > oil-pressure/temperature monitoring circuit. > *Both fuel filters have been replaced. > *The fuel-shutoff solenoid was removed in order to eliminate it as the > culprit. > *An electric fuel pump was installed with no luck. > *The shop measured fuel pressure, and reported a drop in pressure > after running for a while.  They replaced the mechanical fuel pump (I > believe they called it the lift pump).  They said the fuel pressure > remains stable now. > *After picking up the generator from the shop, it was hooked back up, > and the same symptoms returned: Runs then shuts off suddenly. > Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  This has turned out to be a > real head scratcher!

It is difficult to acertain exactly what the problem is, as you can already tell. Before I attempt to give you advice for trouble shooting first and foremost allow me a diatribe and an explaination of my qualifications: Kubota Diesel is a great little power plant but the reason they were so popular (maybe still are) is that they were made in China with cheap labor, and very crude manufacturing faciltites comapred to Japan and Korea. If you cannot properly diagnose the problem and repair it you may want to consider replacement of the generator set altogather. Kabota was intended to be a disposable product. Their diesel engines in no way compare with those manufactured for the same prupose in the United States, Canada, and Mexico. These have phosphorus valves, steel sleeve inserts in the cylinders, and a number of other features which makes them more expensive. That said: 1. What region of the country do you live in? Are you in a high elevation such as mountians? Are you in a cold climate? 2. What is the ambient air temperature when the motor stops running? 3. Does the motor stop running when it is under a load? (generating electric) 4. Does the motor stop when it is un-loaded? (not generating electric) 5. Does the motor stop running when it is under a load and a heavy appliance starts up? Such as a furnace, or refridgerator, or leectric range? 6. Is the generator in a shelter? 7. Is the fuel for that generator sheltered? Is the tank burried, is the   fuel line burried, is a portion of it exposed? is that portion insulated? 8. How old is the fuel? 9. When was the last time the fuel filters were cleaned or replaced? 10. Is there excessive steam comming from the exhaust?         Diesel fuel can turn to a JELL-O cosistancy in a very short order, especially if you bought a summer blend expecting it to last the winter and the ambient air temperature drops below 50*F. If your mechanic is suspecting a fuel delivery problem may be the source, check the tank to see if particulate matter such as rust is blocking the pick up tube, check for an inline or in tank filter. You may want to consider using fuel oil which is the same thing as Diesel #1 instead of Diesel #2 or #3. In one hundred gallons of diesel fuel you can mix one to five gallons of gasoline in order to lighten the fuel up and prevent freezing. Also, you may want to consider additives for stored fuels similar to the ones you use for your gasoline driven lawn mowers, or maybe a fuel additive to break down any accumulated water from either the place where you bought it of due to condensation.         If you have steam exiting your exhaust pipe, you may have a bad head gasket or bad head altogather. Check your coolant levels. NEVER used undiluted Anti-Freeze in your diesel or gasoline engines coolant system. Either buy pre-mixed or mix it yourself using one gallon of DISTILLED water per one gallon of antifreeze. Tap Water should be avoided at all costs. Also check your radiator to see if it has signs of corrosion and make sure your water pump and water flow is proper. Alcohol protects from overheating and freezing when it is mixed 50/50 water to alcohol to protect to -25*F unless otherwise marked on the back panel of the anti-freeze bottle. The Glysterines added are only to prevent people from substituting Vodka with 100% grain alcohol and not paying federal or state taxes for the alcohol consuption! (I have heard of people distilling out the Gylserines or Glyserites but I do not personally recommend it)         ALL internal comustion engines require heat to run efficently, especially diesels. This cannot be over stated. Also too much heat is bad as well. Your coolant system is designed around the principle that water boils at sea level at 212*F and it is at that point that the steam carries away excessive heat from the combustion chamber in order to help maintain a lower friction co-efficient in the cylinder walls. Check your radiator cap to ensure is it holding the proper pressure. If you cannot, then replace the cap with a new one, and have the parts store look up the proper cap for you. It is extremely important to get the correct pressure on your radiator cap.         After you have checked all these things as well as oil levels, then run the motor without putting an electrical load on the generator. If it runs for a day (or a tank of fuel) without fail, then suspect something in the electrical end. It could possibly be the generator itself is worn out and causing the engine to stop from having too much drag placed on it. It could possibly be that there is a device to prevent burning up the circuitry in the home if there is a problem with it?         If the Gen-Set fails after testing it without a load, and all the other mechanical aspects of the diesel motor check out; try to see if you can somehow disconnect the the electrical generator from the motor itself to see if it is the engine or the generator. Good Luck, Joe

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I think it was Cryptojoe who said: > Kubota Diesel is a great little power plant but the reason they were so > popular (maybe still are) is that they were made in China with cheap > labor, and very crude manufacturing faciltites comapred to Japan and > Korea.

Hmmm…. Last time I checked, Kubota was still made in Japan, and if our twenty-three-year-old still running flawlessly Kubota tractor is any indication of "cheap" and "crude" (as well as the thousands that are still out there of similar vintage), I can’t imagine what quality must look like. F.T. — "Which port is it that you need to block [to make Windows secure]?" "You only have to block the port where the power cord goes into the computer." -From a Slashdot discussion

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> Diesel fuel can turn to a JELL-O cosistancy in a very short order, > especially if you bought a summer blend expecting it to last the winter > and the ambient air temperature drops below 50*F.

In my experience, this only begins to happen at temperatures of -25F or colder. > You may want to consider using > fuel oil which is the same thing as Diesel #1 instead of Diesel #2 or > #3. In one hundred gallons of diesel fuel you can mix one to five > gallons of gasoline in order to lighten the fuel up and prevent > freezing.

This is a very dangerous and inadvisable practice.  There are plenty of fuel additives which would do the job safely and effectively.

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