Question:

Real quick question… I’m getting ready to build a 2×12 cabinet.  I went to the store to get some wood and then got to thinking… I don’t really want to buy the ultra-high dollar wood, but if I can get better sound out of ‘medium’ cost wood as opposed to cheep wood – I’m more then willing. So how much does it matter?   Primarily for blues, classic rock playing (if all that matters too). So… pine? oak? maple? ply? partical? balsa? Thanks – tom p.s. – mentioning balsa was a joke  :)

Response:

what kind of wood did you buy? What do you mean by utlra high dollar? I would consider a die board grade grade birch plywood – BU grade. Things to avoid: voids and warping and plugs. Plugs can come loose and rattle. Birch die board is dense, dimensionally stable and also beautiful. Or Maple or Beech http://www.mccauseylumber.com/pdf/specialtywood_3.pdf The only place wood really affects sound is the baffle board (I’m sure someone will correct me here and therefore leave the details to them) I hate MDF – if it gets damp it expands, but if you insist, here’s a good how to finish MDF article – and absolutely NO particle board. You probably meant MDF. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Finishing_MDF.html http://www.mccauseylumber.com/pdf/specialtywood_1.pdf

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > what kind of wood did you buy? What do you mean by utlra high dollar? > I would consider a die board grade grade birch plywood – BU grade. > Things to avoid: voids and warping and plugs. Plugs can come loose and > rattle. Birch die board is dense, dimensionally stable and also > beautiful. Or Maple or Beech > http://www.mccauseylumber.com/pdf/specialtywood_3.pdf > The only place wood really affects sound is the baffle board (I’m sure > someone will correct me here and therefore leave the details to them) > I hate MDF – if it gets damp it expands, but if you insist, here’s a > good how to finish MDF article – and absolutely NO particle board. > You probably meant MDF. > http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Finishing_MDF.html > http://www.mccauseylumber.com/pdf/specialtywood_1.pdf

Zootwoman said: "what kind of wood did you buy? What do you mean by utlra high dollar?" I didn’t buy anything.  I decided to research a bit first.  I went just hoping for the best.  And by "ultra-high dollar" I meant – wood that for the same amount (dimensions), some were 3 to 4 times the amount as the cheeper stuff.( Why spend $60 if $30 will be just fine). OK… I’ll look for some birch plywood, maple or beech.   Thanks A LOT for the info and links – great newsgroup here. -tw

Response:

> Real quick question… I’m getting ready to build a 2×12 cabinet.  I went > to the store to get some wood and then got to thinking… I don’t really > want to buy the ultra-high dollar wood, but if I can get better sound out > of ‘medium’ cost wood as opposed to cheep wood – I’m more then willing. > So how much does it matter?   > Primarily for blues, classic rock playing (if all that matters too). > So… pine? oak? maple? ply? partical? balsa? > Thanks – tom > p.s. – mentioning balsa was a joke  :)

I pick the highest number of NO VOID hardwood plywood, preferably baltic birch.

Response:

birch die board is the most dense and highest quailty. You won’t find it at Home Depot. We use it to make steel rule dies that have to withstand years of torquing while maintaining dimensional stability under a 2 tonne press – and the stuff is really beautiful to work.

Response:

> birch die board is the most dense and highest quailty. You won’t find > it at Home Depot. We use it to make steel rule dies that have to > withstand years of torquing while maintaining dimensional stability > under a 2 tonne press – and the stuff is really beautiful to work.

Well, I ended up getting some 3/4" oak (due to lack of inventory to choose from) and some 1/2" birch as instructed( minimal to "no void").  Total cost was $46 and I’ll have a fair amount of the birch left over for my next project. I’m guessing I’ll use about $30-$35 of the wood for the cabinet. Thanks a lot for your input folks.  Its appreciated. One thing I noticed about this group is that there are never any attachments to the posts.  Is it against the rules or something? I wouldn’t mind showing off my project when I’m finished. Thanks again, -tom

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> birch die board is the most dense and highest quailty. You won’t find > it at Home Depot. We use it to make steel rule dies that have to > withstand years of torquing while maintaining dimensional stability > under a 2 tonne press – and the stuff is really beautiful to work. > Well, I ended up getting some 3/4" oak (due to lack of inventory to choose > from) and some 1/2" birch as instructed( minimal to "no void").  Total > cost was $46 and I’ll have a fair amount of the birch left over for my > next project. I’m guessing I’ll use about $30-$35 of the wood for the > cabinet. > Thanks a lot for your input folks.  Its appreciated. > One thing I noticed about this group is that there are never any > attachments to the posts.  Is it against the rules or something? > I wouldn’t mind showing off my project when I’m finished. > Thanks again, > -tom

It’s not a binary NG.  I’d suggest alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking for the pics and a mention of it over here. Jeff

Response:

Now that you’ve got the wood, and since I’ve only just read the post, I’ll wish you well -but I would have suggested aged pine as the most resonant possible material. I’ve made several cabs. My favorites are pine. My absolute favorite was made from a 50+ year old kitchen cabinet  (about the size of a small Bassman cab) that had been tossed into the alley. It’s got so much life in it , regardless of speakers (currently some mid-60s Utahs), that it’s almost TOO resonant -kind of like an acoustic guitar can be. Birch is a very reliable choice -dense and solid, without coloring the tone much. Let us know how the project turns out. Chuck

Response:

>>I pick the highest number of NO VOID hardwood plywood, preferably baltic >birch. > While I most certainly do agree that that would ideally be highest quality > material, I should mention that I have a 2×12 cab that I built 20 years ago, > out of everyday common interior plywood, smooth one side,  as found at Home > Depot. I have been gigging with it ever since, and have been quite pleased. > I have had NO issues with it.  It’s solid, it doesn’t rattle, and I defy > anyone who doesn’t know the difference to point out any difference,  between > it and the highest quality Baltic Birch.

Perhaps you got lucky?  What if there were some nasty voids in there?  A builder may not want to risk it.  If you’re gonna take the time to build it, I say use the best materials.    We already know that it’s – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> withstood the rigors of 20 years of extremely abusive road use, and is as > solid as anything out there.  No finger joints either, mind you, just butt > joints and interior bracing in the corners, glued and screwed. > I also built a 4×12 cab out of the same material, same techniques, some 5-10 > years earlier.  I discovered that it was being used by the original > guitarist for Extreme a good many years after I traded it in on a pair of > 1967 Marshall 4×12 cabs.  I wouldn’t hesitate to build more of the same. > The way it’s looking, this one will last for several lifetimes.

Response:

No-void plywood is superfluous in in cab construction, and long as we are not talking about really crap wood.  Voids are an issue in structurally demanding marine (boat) construction, and mostly so that complex and/or moulded bends (fairing) will be uniform.  Unless you are building a cab with compex curves that is also to be a flawless work of art, it is ridiculous to seek voidless marine ply.  Also, all common types of plywood throughout the grade ranges now use the same type of marine-grade glue in the lamination process. I believe that within reason, wood type has little or nothing to do with guitar cab performance, but it is another emotional and "mojo" issue among some & my post is simply to point out some popular fallacies about plywood itself – and since all of it is very expensive now, and needless extravagance isn’t what most self-builders have in mind.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > No-void plywood is superfluous in in cab construction, and long as we > are not talking about really crap wood.  Voids are an issue in > structurally demanding marine (boat) construction, and mostly so that > complex and/or moulded bends (fairing) will be uniform.  Unless you are > building a cab with compex curves that is also to be a flawless work of > art, it is ridiculous to seek voidless marine ply.  Also, all common > types of plywood throughout the grade ranges now use the same type of > marine-grade glue in the lamination process. > I believe that within reason, wood type has little or nothing to do > with guitar cab performance, but it is another emotional and "mojo" > issue among some & my post is simply to point out some popular > fallacies about plywood itself – and since all of it is very expensive > now, and needless extravagance isn’t what most self-builders have in > mind.

Response:

> No-void plywood is superfluous in in cab construction, and long as we > are not talking about really crap wood.  Voids are an issue in > structurally demanding marine (boat) construction, and mostly so that > complex and/or moulded bends (fairing) will be uniform.

Speaking for myself:  I don’t want to deal with a void at a cut line.  I don’t what a void under a screw head.  I don’t want a void where the speaker mounts.  …I don’t want voids.    Unless you are > building a cab with compex curves that is also to be a flawless work of > art, it is ridiculous to seek voidless marine ply.  Also, all common > types of plywood throughout the grade ranges now use the same type of > marine-grade glue in the lamination process. > I believe that within reason, wood type has little or nothing to do > with guitar cab performance, but it is another emotional and "mojo" > issue among some & my post is simply to point out some popular > fallacies about plywood itself – and since all of it is very expensive > now, and needless extravagance isn’t what most self-builders have in > mind.

The additional cost of superior wood is probably not that much, when you factor in your labor and hassle. I’d do it top notch.

Response:

> > I pick the highest number of NO VOID hardwood plywood, preferably baltic > birch. > While I most certainly do agree that that would ideally be highest quality > material, I should mention that I have a 2×12 cab that I built 20 years ago, > out of everyday common interior plywood, smooth one side,  as found at Home > Depot.

I wonder how machinable urethane die board would work?

Response:

> The additional cost of superior wood is probably not that much, when you > factor in your labor and hassle. > I’d do it top notch.

And that’s certainly an equally-valid opinion & philisophy. I have some biases against plywood related to its weight & machining qualities vs my equipment & skills, and prefer eastern white pine (adequately braced where necessary for larger panels) for its lightness, easy workability, long established and accepted tonal qualites (if any) in cabs, and also appearance if or when not fabric covered (and you know my disinclination to most popular coverings). But it also happend to be bountifully available to me, and air-dried for many years in the bargain, right out of my woodlot.  But I shudder to think of someone buying clear or #1 KD pine from HD at equally high prices and going through the extra machining for glue-up to construct panels, vs quality sheet goods. Small personal problem:  I am out of old air-dried EWP in 1" nominal, and have to resaw 2" nominal stock which I have oodles of.  It must be schlepped elsewhere & paid a princely sum for resawing (and schlepped back too), but for exposed wood it will yield beautifully bookmatched panels. Then, we have the denting issue with pine (it’s soft).  But Fender used it almost forever. ISTM we are at a point where it is time to forsake most woods for modern materials which offer many advantages, but this, too, is controversial.  We are finding that many new easily-available sheet materials holding out this promise fall short of the mark & claims in applications like boatbuilding, but one has to start pioneering somewhere, and many options remain unexplored, with newer interesting materials being produced faster than people can build with them & learn.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The additional cost of superior wood is probably not that much, when you > factor in your labor and hassle. > I’d do it top notch. > And that’s certainly an equally-valid opinion & philisophy. > I have some biases against plywood related to its weight & machining > qualities vs my equipment & skills, and prefer eastern white pine > (adequately braced where necessary for larger panels) for its > lightness, easy workability, long established and accepted tonal > qualites (if any) in cabs, and also appearance if or when not fabric > covered (and you know my disinclination to most popular coverings). > But it also happend to be bountifully available to me, and air-dried > for many years in the bargain, right out of my woodlot.  But I shudder > to think of someone buying clear or #1 KD pine from HD at equally high > prices and going through the extra machining for glue-up to construct > panels, vs quality sheet goods. > Small personal problem:  I am out of old air-dried EWP in 1" nominal, > and have to resaw 2" nominal stock which I have oodles of.  It must be > schlepped elsewhere & paid a princely sum for resawing (and schlepped > back too), but for exposed wood it will yield beautifully bookmatched > panels. > Then, we have the denting issue with pine (it’s soft).  But Fender used > it almost forever. > ISTM we are at a point where it is time to forsake most woods for > modern materials which offer many advantages, but this, too, is > controversial.  We are finding that many new easily-available sheet > materials holding out this promise fall short of the mark & claims in > applications like boatbuilding, but one has to start pioneering > somewhere, and many options remain unexplored, with newer interesting > materials being produced faster than people can build with them & learn.

Other that the fact that it comes from China Plyboo is a terrific "wood" Actually bamboo is a grass, it has a 7-9 year regroth turnaround and you can eat the shoots. I have a friend who is attempting to start a bamboo farm along the southern Texas coast in an effort to restart domestic bamboo production for both food and wood. I’m doing a building restoration using bamboo flooring. It’s harder than oak and just as beautiful. Anyone from Austin may have noticed plyboo being used for tables and counters at the fast Japanese food chain – Zen Palate http://www.plyboo.nl/ or http://www.silkroadplywood.com/ One of the downsides of using non-wood products is that they are mostly oil based and/or off gass nasty stuff. While The US government isn’t interested in babmboo farms yet, Mexico is. http://app1.chinadaily.com.cn/star/2004/1111/fe23-1.html Pipe dreams Shanghai Star. 2004-11-11 IT can be used to build homes, make deodorant, clothes and paper. Some industries fuel ovens with it. The Aztecs made flutes out of it. China may be the first place that springs to mind when we think of bamboo, but it has long grown wild in Mexico. Now, a handful of Mexican producers are hoping to turn it into a driver of local industry able to one day challenge the Asian giant in export markets from Europe to the United States. A pipe dream? It may be, but a small group of growers in Mexico are already talking about turning the tables on China and selling bamboo into its most lucrative markets. Analysts value the global bamboo market at about US$10 billion, with China claiming about half, and they see it growing to US$20 billion by 2015, led by US demand for paper. Mexican bamboo pioneers hope the country could take a piece of that pie, winning back some ground on Chinese manufacturing imports into Mexico and key export market the United States. Mexico, which sends 90 per cent of its exports to its northern neighbour, has been losing US market share to China in key sectors like textiles, televisions, automobiles and computer parts. Fight back Bamboo is part of the fight back. "In two or three years we could be ready, we could have an industry," Rafael Guillaumin said in Huatusco, deep in the lush hills of Mexico’s Veracruz state. He started planting bamboo on his 100-year-old coffee plantations five years ago amid a global coffee crisis. Guillaumin has formed a private group to promote the bamboo industry by teaching people how to grow it, process it and profit from it. The group, Bambuver, receives government funds and co-ordinates activities with private organizations and universities. It has already helped build low-income bamboo housing in Veracruz state at about one-third the cost of conventional construction. Bambuver is also talking with private industry in Mexico about potential, future uses for bamboo in construction, as a fuel and as the raw material for paper production. One of Mexico’s largest paper-products companies is looking at the possibility of making paper from bamboo or using it for fuel in its plants, Guillaumin said. There is also talk of major reforestation projects. Europeans like the idea of Mexican bamboo because it would be cheaper than the Chinese variety. "It’s a lot cheaper and less time-consuming to transport," said Rafael Bejarano, an expert in bamboo production originally from Costa Rica, which also has a bamboo industry. He said it takes 44 days to get a load of bamboo from China or Thailand to Europe, compared to about 11 days from Mexico. Growers are also looking at niche markets in the United States, for example in the trade of edible bamboo shoots that are currently imported from China and sold in tins and jars. "They could get fresh shoots from us, instead of buying it in preservatives," said Bejarano, who works for Bambuver. Bamboo is a type of grass, but it can grow into 100-foot (33-metre) giant timber bamboos. It grows quickly, in diverse climates, from jungles to high mountainsides and is environmentally friendly because it conserves water and prevents soil erosion. It takes three years for a farmer to develop a bamboo plantation from scratch. Start from scratch But bamboo growers and promoters have their work cut out for them if they want to create a solid industry in Mexico, in part because they are starting almost from scratch. "This is as much about creating a bamboo culture as it is about profit," said Bejarano, whose job is to teach people how to become bamboo farmers. "There is so much land that could be turned to bamboo that is not being used in Mexico because people think the land is useless," said 79-year-old Guillaumin. Enrique Lopez, an 80-year-old coffee farmer from the hills surrounding Huatusco, has planted Guadua bamboo, a hardy kind used for construction scaffolding, on the fringe of his organic coffee plot. He sells the bamboo to supplement his income and provide a natural shield for his small coffee plantation. He said a lot of other farmers are following suit. (Agencies via Xinhua)

Response:

> Real quick question… I’m getting ready to build a 2×12 cabinet.  I went > to the store to get some wood and then got to thinking… I don’t really > want to buy the ultra-high dollar wood, but if I can get better sound out > of ‘medium’ cost wood as opposed to cheep wood – I’m more then willing. > So how much does it matter?   > Primarily for blues, classic rock playing (if all that matters too). > So… pine? oak? maple? ply? partical? balsa? > Thanks – tom > p.s. – mentioning balsa was a joke  :)

I love reading the responses and information in this thread – thanks to all.  I did buy 4 speakers (same kind), and since I’m only building a 2×12 cabinet, I’ll build anather one when I’m done out of different wood to see if there is a difference.  Thanks again!!!!!! -tom

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Real quick question… I’m getting ready to build a 2×12 cabinet.  I went > to the store to get some wood and then got to thinking… I don’t really > want to buy the ultra-high dollar wood, but if I can get better sound out > of ‘medium’ cost wood as opposed to cheep wood – I’m more then willing. > So how much does it matter? > Primarily for blues, classic rock playing (if all that matters too). > So… pine? oak? maple? ply? partical? balsa? > Thanks – tom > p.s. – mentioning balsa was a joke  :) > I love reading the responses and information in this thread – thanks to > all.  I did buy 4 speakers (same kind), and since I’m only building a 2×12 > cabinet, I’ll build anather one when I’m done out of different wood to see > if there is a difference.  Thanks again!!!!!! > -tom

I may not know alot about amps but I know my wood! (blush)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Real quick question… I’m getting ready to build a 2×12 cabinet.  I went >to the store to get some wood and then got to thinking… I don’t really >want to buy the ultra-high dollar wood, but if I can get better sound out >of ‘medium’ cost wood as opposed to cheep wood – I’m more then willing. >So how much does it matter?   >Primarily for blues, classic rock playing (if all that matters too). >So… pine? oak? maple? ply? partical? balsa? >Thanks – tom >p.s. – mentioning balsa was a joke  :) > I love reading the responses and information in this thread – thanks to > all.  I did buy 4 speakers (same kind), and since I’m only building a 2×12 > cabinet, I’ll build anather one when I’m done out of different wood to see > if there is a difference.  Thanks again!!!!!! > -tom

I’d be interested in the difference that you hear between a high quality ply (like 13 ply baltic birch) and a solid wood (like yellow pine).

Response:

> I may not know alot about amps but I know my wood! (blush)

I know both my local woods and some of the tropicals employed in marine use intimately, but am fairly ignorant about others.  From what little I have seen of bamboo I am very impressed by some of the things being done with it.  Apparently a few others are less inspiring.  As ex, a friend recently located & installed bamboo flooring in his home.  Not only was it less costly than the typical 3/4 red oak & rock maple widely used for high-quality flooring, but it has a grain orientation like quartersawn wood, and it is the most superlative dance floor material I have ever felt & slid across, and I am hard to please & critical about dance floors.  It is also quite hard and resistant to dents or abrasion – not to mention very attractive with light color and robust character.  Aesthetically it seems to combine the best and normally mutually exclusive aspects of lightness and heaviness.  It isn’t remotely "oriental."  HWVR we both have also seen laminated bamboo flooring which is crap.  It is still somewhat mysterious to me how 3/4" boards 4" wide with 90 deg grain is produced from bamboo.

Response:

>It is still somewhat mysterious to me >how 3/4" boards 4" wide with 90 deg grain is produced from bamboo.

Big Bamboo? :o ) -Dave

Response:

>>It is still somewhat mysterious to me >how 3/4" boards 4" wide with 90 deg grain is produced from bamboo. >Big Bamboo? >:o) >-Dave

Bamboo’s cool stuff, but it’s an annoying weed that’s a lot like a really tough grass IMO.  I had some planted next to the house that was transplanted from a place my sister lived for a while downstate.   Had the thickest bamboo patch, but it required a lot of attention all the time because it wanted to take over the whole yard, even though it was separated by a sidewalk.  The root systems crawled right under that. I spent hours and hours digging the roots out to get rid of the stuff, and the root systems are *very* tough.  I used a pick axe (not a Tele) and a hole shovel, and my neighbor’s Australian Cattle Dog "Rocky" helped by digging around the roots because he could see that I was working on them. This is Rocky and my dog Belle waiting to get inside, and  you can see the dug up area where the bamboo used to be to the left: http://picturefrompete.home.comcast.net/bellerockydoor.jpg Whatever you do… don’t plant bamboo! Pete — Can I borrow a bucket of worms and a keg of gunpowder?  –Froggo

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I may not know alot about amps but I know my wood! (blush) > I know both my local woods and some of the tropicals employed in marine > use intimately, but am fairly ignorant about others.  From what little > I have seen of bamboo I am very impressed by some of the things being > done with it.  Apparently a few others are less inspiring.  As ex, a > friend recently located & installed bamboo flooring in his home.  Not > only was it less costly than the typical 3/4 red oak & rock maple > widely used for high-quality flooring, but it has a grain orientation > like quartersawn wood, and it is the most superlative dance floor > material I have ever felt & slid across, and I am hard to please & > critical about dance floors.  It is also quite hard and resistant to > dents or abrasion – not to mention very attractive with light color and > robust character.  Aesthetically it seems to combine the best and > normally mutually exclusive aspects of lightness and heaviness.  It > isn’t remotely "oriental."

You can buy bamboo flooring unfinished and stain it any color you wish if you have a hankering for a red floor or want to get crazy with a stencil. Another plus- termite will not eat bamboo. I am sure some other bug like bamboo but not termites. HWVR we both have also seen laminated > bamboo flooring which is crap.  It is still somewhat mysterious to me > how 3/4" boards 4" wide with 90 deg grain is produced from bamboo.

It’s cut from very large bamboo canes that are stripped into pieces, glues and pressed together. take a factory tour here http://www.harmonygroveflooring.com/gallery.htm It would make great cabinets.

Response:

There are hundreds of varieties of bamboo, some are invasive and weedy but the kind that are used to make plyboo and also bamboo scaffolding are varieties that don’t spread much and can grow from 40 to 70 feet high. some varieties grow as much as 2 inches in a day. Check out this grove http://www.harmonygroveflooring.com/016.jpg  and chack out this scaffolding – ne steel there on either building http://www.the4cs.com/~corin/photos/HongKong2001/2001042719081.html There a beautiful book out called Grow you own house http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3575/is_1279_213/ai_111105947 www.bambubrasil.org WHY BAMBOO? … HERE’S WHY … DEFORESTATION and increased CO2 emissions threaten the earth’s biodiversity and the very air we breathe… ENDURING THROUGH TIME… Thomas Edison successfully used a carbonized bamboo filament in his experiment with the first light bulb. This light bulb still burns today in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington DC. He also used a bamboo as rebar for the reinforcement of his swimming pool. To this day, the pool has never leaked. An unrivaled utility, (One resource book lists over 5,000 uses including paper, scaffolding, diesel fuel, airplane "skins", desalination filters, aphrodisiacs, musical instruments, medicine, food and was Alexander Graham Bell’s first phonograph needle SURVIVING THROUGH HARDSHIP… Amidst death and destruction, bamboo survived the Hiroshima atomic blast closer to ground zero than any other living thing and provided the first re-greening in Hiroshima after the blast in 1945. GROWING WITH STRENGTH AND SPEED… With a tensile strength superior to mild steel (withstands up to 52,000 Pounds of pressure psi) and a weight-to-strength ratio surpassing that of graphite, bamboo is the strongest growing woody plant on earth with one of the widest ranging habitats of more than 1500 species thriving in diverse terrain from sea level to 12,000 feet on every continent but the poles. It also grows the fastest: clocked shooting skyward at 2 inches an hour. Some species grow one and a half meters a day. BAMBOO PROTECTS THE ENVIRONMENT AND THE AIR WE BREATHE… Bamboo is the fastest growing canopy for the regreening of degraded lands, and its stands release 35% more oxygen than equivalent stands of trees. Some bamboo even sequester up to 12 tons of carbon dioxide from the air per hectare. Bamboo can also lower light intensity and protects against ultraviolet rays. Traditional belief holds that being in a bamboo grove – the favorite dwelling place of Buddha – restores calmness to emotions and stimulates creativity. Carbon Sequestration Information Net production and carbon cycling in a bamboo Phyllostachys pubescens stand. AU: Isagi-Y; Kawahara-T; Kamo-K; Ito-H AD: Kansai Research Center, Forestry and Forest Products Research Institute, Momoyama, Fushimi, Kyoto 612, Japan. SO: Plant-Ecology. 1997, 130: 1, 41-52; 48 ref. PY: 1997 LA: English AB: Phyllostachys pubescens is one of the largest bamboo species with a leptomorphic (a type of rhizomatous system with solitary culms scattered rather evenly) root system in the world. The species originates in China and has been naturalized in neighbouring countries. It was introduced in 1746 into Japan because of the economic value of the young sprouts and culm woods. It escaped from the planted areas and expanded by invading the native vegetation. In order to clarify the basic ecological characteristics of the species, carbon fixation and cycling were determined in a stand of Phyllostachys pubescens in Kyoto Prefecture. The standing culm density and average DBH (diameter at breast height) in 1991 were 7100 ha-1 and 11.3 cm, respectively. The above-ground biomass was 116.5 t ha-1 for culms, 15.5 t ha-1 for branches, 5.9 t ha-1 for leaves and 137.9 t ha-1 in total. The total above-ground biomass is one of the largest among the world’s bamboo communities. The biomass of rhizomes and fine roots was 16.7 t ha-1 and 27.9 t ha-1, respectively. Annual soil respiration was 52.3 t CO2 ha-1, the highest among those determined in Japan. The gross annual production was high, at 32.8 t C ha-1, and allocation of annual gross production to the root system was also high at 11 t C ha-1 – 34% of gross production, and 46% of the fluxes out of the leaves. This pattern of allocation results in a net annual above-ground production of 18.1 t ha-1, which is within the average range of productivity of forests under similar climatic conditions. The correspondence of the allocation pattern of the species with its successful range expansion is discussed. DE: asexual-reproduction; biological-production; biomass-production; carbon-cycle; bamboos-; nutrients-; distribution-; carbon-; photosynthesis-; stand-characteristics; biomass-; cycling- AN: 950608033 TI: Carbon stock and cycling in a bamboo Phyllostachys bambusoides stand. AU: Isagi-Y AD: Laboratory of Silviculture, Kansai Research Center, Forestry and Forest Products Research Institute, Kyoto 612, Japan. SO: Ecological-Research. 1994, 9: 1, 47-55; 42 ref. PY: 1994 LA: English AB: Gross production and carbon cycling in a Phyllostachys bambusoides stand in Kyoto Prefecture, central Japan, were determined, and then a compartment model showing the carbon stock and cycling within the ecosystem was developed. Aboveground carbon stock was 52.3 t/ha, increasing at an annual rate of 3.6 t/ha. Belowground carbon stock was 20.8 t/ha in the root system and 92.0 t/ha in the soil. Aboveground annual net C production was 11.2 t/ha. Belowground annual net C production was crudely estimated at 4.5 t/ha. Gross annual production was estimated at 41.8 t/ha by summing the amount of outflow to the environment and the increment in biomass. Leaves consumed 13.7 t C/ha per year by respiration; the rest (41.8 – 13.7 = 28.1 t C/ha per year) was surplus production of leaves and flowed into the other compartments. Annual amounts of construction and maintenance respiration of aboveground compartments were 3.4 and 18.5 t/ha, respectively. The annual amount of soil respiration was 11.2 t/ha. Soil respiration levels of 4.3 and 3.1 t C/ha per year were estimated for the flow of root respiration and root detritus. The proportion of net to gross production was 37%, which fell within the range of young and mature forests. A shorter life span of culms, compared to tree trunks, resulted in smaller biomass accumulation ratio (biomass/net production) in the ecosystem, of 4.66. DE: bamboos-; respiration-; biomass-; carbon-; models-; carbon- cycle; biomass-production; simulation-; cycling- To find out the latest information on global warming, click here EROSION CONTROL … A peerless erosion control agent,. it’s net like root system create an effective mechanism for watershed protection, stitching the soil together along fragile riverbanks, deforested areas, and in places prone to earthquakes and mud slides. Because of their wide-spreading root system, uniquely shaped leaves, and dense litter on the forest floor, the sum of stem flow rate and canopy intercept of bamboo is 25% which means that bamboo greatly reduces rain run off, preventing massive soil erosion and keeping up to twice as much water in the watershed. Bamboo is a pioneering plant and can be grown in soil damaged by overgrazing and poor agricultural techniques. Unlike with most trees proper harvesting does not kill the bamboo plant so topsoil is held in place. SAVING RAINFORESTS … Bamboo is one of the strongest building materials. Bamboo’s tensile strength is 28,000 pounds per square inch versus 23,000 pounds per square inch for steel. In the tropics it is possible to plant and ‘grow your own home;. in Costa Rica, 1000 houses of bamboo are built annually with material coming only from a 60 hectare bamboo plantation. If an equivalent project used timber, it would require 500 hectares of our diminishing tropical rainforests. Using bamboo to replace timber saves the rainforests. With a 10-30% annual increase in biomass versus 2 to 5% for trees, bamboo creates greater yields of raw material for use. One clump can produce 200 poles in the three to five years. Bamboo generates a crop every year. A RENEWABLE RESOURCE … Bamboo is a high-yield renewable resource: "Ply boo" is now being used for wall paneling and floor tiles; bamboo pulp for paper-making; briquettes for fuel, raw material for housing construction; and rebar for reinforced concrete beams. There are 1500 species of bamboo on the earth. This diversity makes bamboo adaptable to many environments. It can be harvested in 3-5 years versus 10-20 years for most softwoods. Bamboo tolerates extremes of precipitation, from 30-250 inches of annual rainfall. HOUSING … Bamboo related industries already provide income, food, and housing to over 2.2 billion people worldwide. There is a 3-5 year return on investment for a new bamboo plantation versus 8-10 years for rattan. The governments of India and China, with 15 million hectares of bamboo reserves collectively, are poised to focus attention on the economic factors of bamboo and its protection. In Limon, Costa Rica, only bamboo houses from the national Bamboo Project stood after their violent earthquake in 1992. Flexible and lightweight, bamboo enables structures to "dance" in earthquakes. Go to the "Comparative Strength of Bamboo or Grow Your Own House page. Just Available ! Simon Velez’s new book "Grow Your Own House" Click HERE to order. FOOD … Bamboo shoots provide nutrition for millions of people worldwide. In Japan, the antioxidant properties of pulverized bamboo skin can prevent bacterial growth, and it is used as a natural food preservative. Bamboo :litter: make fodder for animas and food for fish. Taiwan alone consumes 80,000 tons of bamboo shoots annually, constituting a $50 million industry. `Bamboo leaves are normally utilized as fodder during scarcity. Young bamboo leaves and twigs are a favorite meal for elephants and the Panda. D. strictus leaves have (on dry … read more »

Response:

how about ROCK? as in immitation rock http://www.rockusticsinc.com/ all a mater of taste….i guess. rock N roll? Cabinets of Stone Tony Mul

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > "Eric Gisin"> wrote > > > "Don"> wrote > > > > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > > > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > > > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our > future. > > > > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > > > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much > smarter > > > > > and conserve and manage energy! > > > > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old > > buildings? > > > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > > > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and > > rebuild. > > Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old > > buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > > > They make money doing so. > > Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an > old > > building. > > Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building > in > > the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one > wants > > to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove > the > > building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? > > Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all > know > > politicians aren’t interested in such a thing…… > We’ve got a great old building in the town I live in.  I could pick it up > for less than $200K.  However, I’ve done some research and the renovation > costs are around $4 M.  The rents in the town don’t support what’s > required. > The building won’t cash-flow.  If it won’t cash-flow, it won’t make anyone > any money.  The land isn’t worth a whole lot, either, plus the building is > on the National Historic Register and the local folk would put up a huge > fuss it you tried to tear it down.  Therefore, it sits, 66% unused (main > floor retail is rented out).  It’ll stay that way until someone can afford > to take a long term view (20+ years) and a loss on the building. That > someone is not me. > In enormously wealthy community Boca Grand, Florida, summer retreat to the > Bush’s, DuPont’s, etc., I was hired to do a historic restoration on a pile > of sticks for a member of the Forbes family. (no it wasn’t Steve or Malcolm, > but one you never heard of)  ;-) > To look at the home you’d have given $10 for the firewood, but the county > had it assessed at $750k. The entire restoration was going to cost almost $2 > mil. > Plans were drawn, permits pulled and the lifting of the existing structure > was begun. This was necessary as the complete floor framing was *gone* and > the foundation consisted of a few large rocks and existing stumps at > critical areas. Anyway, when the crane lifted the reinforced structure off > the ground 4′ the entire thing collapsed in a heap. That was 5 years ago and > the heap still sits, prisoner of the *hysterical society*.

That’s almost funny.  I hope the people who did the work were paid for their efforts, at least. We are about to buy a farm house that was built in 1900.  Believe me, I inspected the foundation before I even hired a professional inspector. Once I saw that the house is actually worth something, we hired a professional — who found a few things that I didn’t find, but who agreed with me that the house is very much worth the price. We live in Michigan, so insulation will be a big priority.  There have already been some renovations, including lots of windows.  More to come :-) Of course, the whole idea of "tearing down to save the future" that the original poster proposed is pure poppycock.  On our own local level, biomass will work well for our energy needs.  On a larger scale, we need to ignore the fear mongers and start building some nuke plants.  I grew up within about thirty miles of the Fermi II plant, and have yet to see a problem.  The new pebble bed reactors will be even better. Ray Drouillard

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Eric Gisin"> wrote > > "Don"> wrote > > > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > > > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > > > > and conserve and manage energy! > > > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old > buildings? > > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and > rebuild. > Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old > buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > > They make money doing so. > Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an old > building. > Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building in > the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one > wants > to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove > the > building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? > Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all know > politicians aren’t interested in such a thing…… >     The tax base is a crucial issue. a torn down building pays no property > tax provides not jobs and hosts no people that fuel the surrounding business > thats the motive, not total idiocy as is so common in the rest of govt.

What about the damage that is caused to the million dollar homes that have to sit next to a pile of 60 y.o. rotted lumber, not to mention the public eyesore or the *attractive nuisance* to neighborhood kids? The entire gov’t engine is devoid of logic.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Eric Gisin"> wrote > "Don"> wrote > > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > > > and conserve and manage energy! > > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old > buildings? > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and > rebuild. > Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old > buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > They make money doing so. > Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an old > building. > Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building in > the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one wants > to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove the > building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? > Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all know > politicians aren’t interested in such a thing……

    The tax base is a crucial issue. a torn down building pays no property tax provides not jobs and hosts no people that fuel the surrounding business thats the motive, not total idiocy as is so common in the rest of govt. Phil Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Eric Gisin"> wrote > > "Don"> wrote > > > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > > > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > > > > and conserve and manage energy! > > > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old > buildings? > > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and > rebuild. > Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old > buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > > They make money doing so. > Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an old > building. > Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building in > the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one > wants > to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove > the > building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? > Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all know > politicians aren’t interested in such a thing…… > We’ve got a great old building in the town I live in.  I could pick it up > for less than $200K.  However, I’ve done some research and the renovation > costs are around $4 M.  The rents in the town don’t support what’s required. > The building won’t cash-flow.  If it won’t cash-flow, it won’t make anyone > any money.  The land isn’t worth a whole lot, either, plus the building is > on the National Historic Register and the local folk would put up a huge > fuss it you tried to tear it down.  Therefore, it sits, 66% unused (main > floor retail is rented out).  It’ll stay that way until someone can afford > to take a long term view (20+ years) and a loss on the building.  That > someone is not me.

In enormously wealthy community Boca Grand, Florida, summer retreat to the Bush’s, DuPont’s, etc., I was hired to do a historic restoration on a pile of sticks for a member of the Forbes family. (no it wasn’t Steve or Malcolm, but one you never heard of)  ;-) To look at the home you’d have given $10 for the firewood, but the county had it assessed at $750k. The entire restoration was going to cost almost $2 mil. Plans were drawn, permits pulled and the lifting of the existing structure was begun. This was necessary as the complete floor framing was *gone* and the foundation consisted of a few large rocks and existing stumps at critical areas. Anyway, when the crane lifted the reinforced structure off the ground 4′ the entire thing collapsed in a heap. That was 5 years ago and the heap still sits, prisoner of the *hysterical society*.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "Eric Gisin"> wrote > "Don"> wrote > > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > > > and conserve and manage energy! > > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old > buildings? > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and > rebuild. > Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old > buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > They make money doing so. > Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an old > building. > Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building in > the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one wants > to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove the > building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? > Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all know > politicians aren’t interested in such a thing……

We’ve got a great old building in the town I live in.  I could pick it up for less than $200K.  However, I’ve done some research and the renovation costs are around $4 M.  The rents in the town don’t support what’s required. The building won’t cash-flow.  If it won’t cash-flow, it won’t make anyone any money.  The land isn’t worth a whole lot, either, plus the building is on the National Historic Register and the local folk would put up a huge fuss it you tried to tear it down.  Therefore, it sits, 66% unused (main floor retail is rented out).  It’ll stay that way until someone can afford to take a long term view (20+ years) and a loss on the building.  That someone is not me. P P

Response:

"Eric Gisin"> wrote > "Don"> wrote > "Marc Lermin"> wrote > > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > > and conserve and manage energy! > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old buildings? > If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. > There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and

rebuild. Then I guess the statement above, "It is time to tear down these old buildings.", was directed towards developers, right? > They make money doing so.

Only if the land is worth more money with a new building on it than an old building. Around here, most of the time you’ll find the old dilapidated building in the distressed parts of town, no one wants to rebuild there and no one wants to spend the money to remove the building. Perhaps the city could remove the building(s) and replace it with the (supposedly) much needed green area? Wait, thats something that would actually improve the area and we all know politicians aren’t interested in such a thing……

Response:

"Marc Lermin"> wrote > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > and conserve and manage energy!

Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old buildings?

Response:

> "Marc Lermin"> wrote > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > and conserve and manage energy! > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old buildings?

Not to mention the energy used to fabricate the raw materials for new construction. Lead and asbestos……two of the chicken little fear of the late 20th

Response:

> "Marc Lermin"> wrote > In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > and conserve and manage energy! > Who do you suggest should pay the costs of tearing down the old buildings?

If someone has renovated and brought the building to code, fine. There are plenty of developers willing to rip down old building and rebuild. They make money doing so. Municipal governments and "historic activists" prevent them. Look at the railroads, they replace 25 year old locomotives becuase new ones are 10% more efficent. New housing is 100-200% more energy efficient.

Response:

In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) rent control and historic preservation, we are spending our future. It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter and conserve and manage energy! ===== They used to put asbestos in: bakelite, plaster of Paris, sheetrock joints, ceiling "sand" paint, foot-callous pumice, wall shingles, floor tiles, pipe insulation, skyscraper ceiling insulation, floortile (black-tar-like) "mastic" (even under ceramic bath tiles), and roofing shingles. They spread it with "don’t ask, don’t tell" electricians and dust-covered workers on your busses and dumpster leftovers on your sidewalk. Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard – Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools

Response:

> In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > rent control and historic preservation (keep rich grandpa’s house > alive at taxpayer expence), we are spending our future. > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings.

He’s blocked… I don’t wanna hear from this twit… PLEASE don’t reply to him.

Response:

The troll has returned!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) > rent control and historic preservation (keep rich grandpa’s house > alive at taxpayer expence), we are spending our future. > It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. > New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter > and conserve and manage energy! > ===== > They used to put asbestos in: bakelite, plaster of Paris, > sheetrock joints, ceiling "sand" paint, foot-callous pumice, > wall shingles, floor tiles, pipe insulation, skyscraper ceiling > insulation, floortile (black-tar-like) "mastic" (even under > ceramic bath tiles), and roofing shingles. They spread it with > "don’t ask, don’t tell" electricians and dust-covered > workers on your busses and dumpster leftovers on your sidewalk. > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Finance Tax Center – File online. File on time. > http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

Response:

In the name of a reactionary (keep the failed rich puppies housed) rent control and historic preservation (keep rich grandpa’s house alive at taxpayer expence), we are spending our future. It is time to be proactive and tear down those old buildings. New buildings don’t have lead and asbestos and they are much smarter and conserve and manage energy! ===== They used to put asbestos in: bakelite, plaster of Paris, sheetrock joints, ceiling "sand" paint, foot-callous pumice, wall shingles, floor tiles, pipe insulation, skyscraper ceiling insulation, floortile (black-tar-like) "mastic" (even under ceramic bath tiles), and roofing shingles. They spread it with "don’t ask, don’t tell" electricians and dust-covered workers on your busses and dumpster leftovers on your sidewalk. Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center – File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

Response:

Question:

I posted these to another group but didn’t see them here so I figured I’d drop ‘em off and let the whiners refute every little detail and tell us all how the world owes France for something or other. State Dept. ‘Warning’ on France Mike Thompson Monday, Feb. 17, 2003 Just for laughs, from Mike Thompson, a sneak peek at the State Department’s latest assessment of travel to the Republic of France: Because France plans to veto a UN Security Council Resolution aimed at liberating Iraq, the following advisory for American travelers heading for France has been issued. It was compiled by the U.S. Department of State from information provided by the CIA, U.S. Chamber of Commerce, Lady Margaret Thatcher, the FBI, Food Channel, Centers for Disease Control, Fox News, and very expensive spy satellites the French don’t even know about. This guide contains insensitive information For Your Eyes Only. OVERVIEW: France is a medium-sized foreign country situated on the continent of Europe. It is an important member of the world community, though not nearly as important as it thinks. It is bounded by Germany, Spain, Switzerland and several smaller "nations" of no particular consequence and inferior shopping. France is an old country with many treasures, such as the Louvre and EuroDisney. Among its contributions to western civilization: Camembert cheese, champagne, truffles, and the guillotine. France postures as a modern, cutting-edge nation; in reality, air-conditioning is rare, personal under-arm deodorants are unheard of, and decent Mexican food cannot be found. Exasperating for typically respectful American visitors is the fact that the French people stubbornly still speak only French, although many will use passable English if threatened physically. As in any foreign country, watch your change at all times. PEOPLE: France has 54 million French persons, most of whom drink and smoke heavily, drive helter-skelter, are dangerously oversexed, and have no concept of standing patiently in line. The French are gloomy, temperamental, proud, arrogant, loof, and undisciplined–and those are their good points. Most French profess to be Roman Catholic, an amusing anomaly if one considers their behavior. Many also are Communists. Topless sunbathing is common among the numerous flat-chested women. Men, even if not wearing thongs in public, often have girls’ names like Yves and Marie, and ardently will kiss each other when handing out medals. American visitors should travel in groups and wear baseball caps and colorful trousers for easier mutual recognition. SAFETY: France usually is safe to visit, although travelers are advised that periodically it is invaded by Germany. By tradition, the French surrender promptly and, other than a temporary shortage of Scotch and increased difficulty in obtaining baseball scores and stock-market prices, life for visitors generally goes on as if nothing has occurred. A tunnel under the English Channel connecting France and Britain has been opened in recent years to make it easier for the entire government to flee to London. HISTORY: France was discovered by Charlemagne in the Dark Ages (before there was even a Texas or United States). Other important historic figures are Louis XIV (pronounced "14th"), born-again Huguenots, Joan of Arc, Jacques Cousteau, and Charles de Gaulle, who was president for many years and is now an airport. GOVERNMENT: The French form of government is wildly democratic. Elections are conducted continuously, and invariably result in a runoff. For administrative efficiency, the nation is subdivided into regions, departments, districts, municipalities, cantons, zip codes, communes, villages, cafes, booths, and floor tiles. Parliament has two chambers, Upper and Lower (inexplicably, both are on the ground floor), whose members are either Gaullists or Communists, neither of whom can be trusted. Parliament’s only roles are 1) to set off atomic bombs in the South Pacific, then 2) be indignant when anyone complains. U.S. intelligence indicates the current president answers to "Jacques" (his "s" is silent). CULTURE: The French pride themselves on their culture, though it is difficult to understand why. All their songs sound the same, their dancing is violent, and their movies are worthless except for the nude scenes, provided you like to watch effeminate men and ambivalent women chain-smoking on a garish bed. Gallic architecture is pure copycat, and all poems and novels are inexplicably in French. CUISINE: No matter how much garlic you put on it, a snail is still a slug with a shell on its back. Croissants, though, are excellent, but nearly impossible for Americans to pronounce. Travelers should stick to the well-done cheeseburgers and so-called "French" fries at leading hotels such as Holiday Inn. As to drinking water, France bottles dirty melted snow under the label of Evian and sells it to Americans for the same price as high-octane gas. "Evian" spelled backwards is "naive." ECONOMY: France has a large and diversified economy, second in Europe only to Germany’s. This is surprising because French people hardly ever work. If not spending four hours dawdling over lunch, they are on strike and blocking roads with their trucks and tractors. France’s principal exports, in ascending order of importance to its pro-peace economy, are geese, attack aircraft, perfume, guided missiles, pornography, high-tech guns, wine, grenade launchers, ugly Citroen cars, land mines, lace, combat knives, cheese, nuclear weapons, condoms, and 139,745 personal military and petrochemical advisers to Saddam Hussein. HOLIDAYS: France has more days off than any other nation in the world–704 every 365-day year. National holidays include 197 days for saints, 37 National Liberation Days, 16 Declaration of Republic Days, 54 Return of General Charles de Gaulle in Triumph as if He Won World Two Single-Handed Days, 18 Napoleon Sent into Exile Days, 17 Napoleon Called Back from Exile Days, and 112 France is Great and the Rest of the World is Rubbish Days. Other important holidays are Peaceful Nuclear Bomb Day, the Feast of Brigitte Bardot Day, and National Guillotine Day. CONCLUSION: France enjoys a rich history, a picturesque landscape, lovely towns, and a temperate climate. In short, it would be a very nice country if it weren’t inhabited by French people. WARNING: Consular services of the U.S. government are intended primarily to promote business abroad. In the event, however, you are the victim of a crime or serious injury involving at least the loss of a limb, report any Tuesday to the American Embassy between 5:20 and 5:25 a.m., and a consular official (a French local who is supremely attuned to your plight) will give you a list of qualified dentists or taxidermists. Remember, no one ordered you to visit France. Loyal Americans vacation in Miami Beach, and we advise you to do the same. Good luck, mazeltov, buena suerte–or even bon chance, if you insist on speaking funny.

Response:

France is a big fat zero.  What have they contributed to the modern world? Fancy overpriced food? Fancy wine? Fancy condoms? The French Foreign Legion is a group of mult-national mercenaries which only exists because the French are a bunch of wimps. Hell, I’ve seen King Kong climb the Empire State building, Godzilla climb Tokyo Tower, but even the most horrible creatures on earth don’t want anything to do with the Eiffel Tower because they’d have to go to France to climb it! Hoady

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I posted these to another group but didn’t see them here so > I figured I’d drop ‘em off and let the whiners refute every > little detail and tell us all how the world owes France for > something or other. > State Dept. ‘Warning’ on France > Mike Thompson > Monday, Feb. 17, 2003 > Just for laughs, from Mike Thompson, a sneak peek at the > State > Department’s latest assessment of travel to the Republic of > France: > Because France plans to veto a UN Security Council > Resolution aimed at > liberating Iraq, the following advisory for American > travelers heading > for France has been issued. It was compiled by the U.S. > Department of > State from information provided by the CIA, U.S. Chamber of > Commerce, > Lady Margaret Thatcher, the FBI, Food Channel, Centers for > Disease > Control, Fox News, and very expensive spy satellites the > French don’t > even know about. This guide contains insensitive information > For Your > Eyes Only. > OVERVIEW: France is a medium-sized foreign country situated > on the > continent of Europe. It is an important member of the world > community, > though not nearly as important as it thinks. It is bounded > by Germany, > Spain, Switzerland and several smaller "nations" of no > particular > consequence and inferior shopping. France is an old country > with many > treasures, such as the Louvre and EuroDisney. Among its > contributions > to western civilization: Camembert cheese, champagne, > truffles, and > the guillotine. > France postures as a modern, cutting-edge nation; in > reality, > air-conditioning is rare, personal under-arm deodorants are > unheard > of, and decent Mexican food cannot be found. Exasperating > for > typically respectful American visitors is the fact that the > French > people stubbornly still speak only French, although many > will use > passable English if threatened physically. As in any foreign > country, > watch your change at all times. > PEOPLE: France has 54 million French persons, most of whom > drink and > smoke heavily, drive helter-skelter, are dangerously > oversexed, and > have no concept of standing patiently in line. The French > are gloomy, > temperamental, proud, arrogant, loof, and undisciplined–and > those are > their good points. Most French profess to be Roman Catholic, > an > amusing anomaly if one considers their behavior. Many also > are > Communists. Topless sunbathing is common among the numerous > flat-chested women. Men, even if not wearing thongs in > public, often > have girls’ names like Yves and Marie, and ardently will > kiss each > other when handing out medals. > American visitors should travel in groups and wear baseball > caps and > colorful trousers for easier mutual recognition. > SAFETY: France usually is safe to visit, although travelers > are > advised that periodically it is invaded by Germany. By > tradition, the > French surrender promptly and, other than a temporary > shortage of > Scotch and increased difficulty in obtaining baseball scores > and > stock-market prices, life for visitors generally goes on as > if nothing > has occurred. A tunnel under the English Channel connecting > France and > Britain has been opened in recent years to make it easier > for the > entire government to flee to London. > HISTORY: France was discovered by Charlemagne in the Dark > Ages (before > there was even a Texas or United States). Other important > historic > figures are Louis XIV (pronounced "14th"), born-again > Huguenots, Joan > of Arc, Jacques Cousteau, and Charles de Gaulle, who was > president for > many years and is now an airport. > GOVERNMENT: The French form of government is wildly > democratic. > Elections are conducted continuously, and invariably result > in a > runoff. For administrative efficiency, the nation is > subdivided into > regions, departments, districts, municipalities, cantons, > zip codes, > communes, villages, cafes, booths, and floor tiles. > Parliament has two chambers, Upper and Lower (inexplicably, > both are > on the ground floor), whose members are either Gaullists or > Communists, neither of whom can be trusted. Parliament’s > only roles > are 1) to set off atomic bombs in the South Pacific, then 2) > be > indignant when anyone complains. > U.S. intelligence indicates the current president answers to > "Jacques" > (his "s" is silent). > CULTURE: The French pride themselves on their culture, > though it is > difficult to understand why. All their songs sound the same, > their > dancing is violent, and their movies are worthless except > for the nude > scenes, provided you like to watch effeminate men and > ambivalent women > chain-smoking on a garish bed. Gallic architecture is pure > copycat, > and all poems and novels are inexplicably in French. > CUISINE: No matter how much garlic you put on it, a snail is > still a > slug with a shell on its back. Croissants, though, are > excellent, but > nearly impossible for Americans to pronounce. Travelers > should stick > to the well-done cheeseburgers and so-called "French" fries > at leading > hotels such as Holiday Inn. > As to drinking water, France bottles dirty melted snow under > the label > of Evian and sells it to Americans for the same price as > high-octane > gas. "Evian" spelled backwards is "naive." > ECONOMY: France has a large and diversified economy, second > in Europe > only to Germany’s. This is surprising because French people > hardly > ever work. If not spending four hours dawdling over lunch, > they are on > strike and blocking roads with their trucks and tractors. > France’s > principal exports, in ascending order of importance to its > pro-peace > economy, are geese, attack aircraft, perfume, guided > missiles, > pornography, high-tech guns, wine, grenade launchers, ugly > Citroen > cars, land mines, lace, combat knives, cheese, nuclear > weapons, > condoms, and 139,745 personal military and petrochemical > advisers to > Saddam Hussein. > HOLIDAYS: France has more days off than any other nation in > the > world–704 every 365-day year. National holidays include 197 > days for > saints, 37 National Liberation Days, 16 Declaration of > Republic Days, > 54 Return of General Charles de Gaulle in Triumph as if He > Won World > Two Single-Handed Days, 18 Napoleon Sent into Exile Days, 17 > Napoleon > Called Back from Exile Days, and 112 France is Great and the > Rest of > the World is Rubbish Days. Other important holidays are > Peaceful > Nuclear Bomb Day, the Feast of Brigitte Bardot Day, and > National > Guillotine Day. > CONCLUSION: France enjoys a rich history, a picturesque > landscape, > lovely towns, and a temperate climate. In short, it would be > a very > nice country if it weren’t inhabited by French people. > WARNING: Consular services of the U.S. government are > intended > primarily to promote business abroad. In the event, however, > you are > the victim of a crime or serious injury involving at least > the loss of > a limb, report any Tuesday to the American Embassy between > 5:20 and > 5:25 a.m., and a consular official (a French local who is > supremely > attuned to your plight) will give you a list of qualified > dentists or > taxidermists. > Remember, no one ordered you to visit France. Loyal > Americans vacation > in Miami Beach, and we advise you to do the same. Good luck, > mazeltov, > buena suerte–or even bon chance, if you insist on speaking > funny.

Response:

Truly funny. I like these best when the humor is aimed at everyone. It helps keep us from taking ourselves too seriously. Chuck

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> Truly funny. I like these best when the humor is aimed at everyone. It > helps keep us from taking ourselves too seriously. > Chuck

Oldie but goodie…  ;-) >your hard-sell mickey mouse export culture erodes other peoples’ cultures >and national self-esteem. > Hey, if you’ve got a cultural tradition that can be undone by a mouse > and Beavis and Butthead reruns you weren’t bolted together real tight > in the first place.

ROFLMBFAO!!   HAWWW!!!!   <whew>  Spit take!  ;-) Yeah, we got armed thugs over there makin’ these poor Euro-weenies buy our stuff.  Hell, French music sucks so bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own radio stations play the shit instead of American music. >you churn out third-rate movies and embarrassing >television shows that end up dominating foreign stations because, past their >sell-by date, they’re cheaper than home-brewed programs.  your fast-food >chains damage local cuisines and help export america’s obesity. > Then don’t buy the shit. People buy this stuff because they like it, > it’s fun, and tasty.

Like I said – the CIA is standin’ in all their shops with machine guns, making sure all the Eeeeeeeewwwwww pinkos buy shitty American stuff.  Hmmmm….maybe they’re just embarassed at their lack of sales resistance. Sheep-like, they eschew their own hallowed traditions at the drop of a Madison Avenue hat, preferring the Big Mac to the haute cuisine Euro-slop.  (Maybe they’re so sick of overcooked mystery meat swimming in grease and garlic that even a dried-out McDonald’s burger looks good in comparison.  Ya think?)   "Fries with that?" >you think guns are cool. > So are fast cars, sexy guitars and space shuttles.

 Hell, I have *lots* of guns.  Big ones, small ones, loud ones, some with silencers (oops – I didn’t say that…shhhhhhhh….), revolvers, semi-autos, pump- action shotguns…man, I can *accessorize* with ‘em…lemme see, now – today, it’s blue jeans and a T-shirt…hmmm….I’m feelin’ adventurous, how about the S&W .357 Magnum snub-nose with the rosewood grips?  Just right for makin’ spineless Euro-weenies buy shitty American videotapes.  "Hey, YOU!  That’s right, you.  C’mere, Froggy.  No, DON’T plunk your magic twanger, we have *laws* against that shit here.  See this?  It’s "Die Hard," starring Bruce Willis.  Take this over to the checkout and buy it.  Tell ‘em the CIA says you get a 40% discount. Pick up some fried pork rinds, a six-pack of Budweiser, and get your Jerry Lewis-worshippin’ ass back to your hovel and watch it.  If you don’t, I’m gonna blow your enormous nose off.  Hell, I might just blow your pinky toe off for target practice.  GIT MOVIN’!  Yippee Ki-yay, Mother-Fucker!" It don’t get any better’n this.  ;-) Lord Valve American (and you can like it or kiss my fat Yank ass)

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You know what else France does? They are the only non-English-speaking country with a government ministry whose job it is to coin French words for the inventions of English-speaking countries. The world over, the word for ‘computer’ is ‘computer’. The French had to give it a French name. Same with the CD. Another from the ‘you just can’t make this shit up’ file: The EU has a law, written by the French, that you can’t legally sell a banana unless it has a legally prescribed minimum and maximum curvature. Too curled? Against the law. Too straight? Ditto. This is what they think is important. Is it any wonder they think a little more power for them is worth 20 more years of the worst Saddam can do? Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Truly funny. I like these best when the humor is aimed at everyone. It > helps keep us from taking ourselves too seriously. > Chuck > Oldie but goodie…  ;-) > >your hard-sell mickey mouse export culture erodes other peoples’ > cultures > >and national self-esteem. > Hey, if you’ve got a cultural tradition that can be undone by a mouse > and Beavis and Butthead reruns you weren’t bolted together real tight > in the first place. > ROFLMBFAO!!   HAWWW!!!!   <whew>  Spit take!  ;-) > Yeah, we got armed thugs over there makin’ these poor > Euro-weenies buy our stuff.  Hell, French music sucks so > bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own > radio stations play the shit instead of American music. > >you churn out third-rate movies and embarrassing > >television shows that end up dominating foreign stations because, past > their > >sell-by date, they’re cheaper than home-brewed programs.  your fast-food > >chains damage local cuisines and help export america’s obesity. > Then don’t buy the shit. People buy this stuff because they like it, > it’s fun, and tasty. > Like I said – the CIA is standin’ in all their shops with > machine guns, making sure all the Eeeeeeeewwwwww > pinkos buy shitty American stuff.  Hmmmm….maybe > they’re just embarassed at their lack of sales resistance. > Sheep-like, they eschew their own hallowed traditions > at the drop of a Madison Avenue hat, preferring the > Big Mac to the haute cuisine Euro-slop.  (Maybe they’re > so sick of overcooked mystery meat swimming in grease > and garlic that even a dried-out McDonald’s burger looks > good in comparison.  Ya think?)   "Fries with that?" > >you think guns are cool. > So are fast cars, sexy guitars and space shuttles. >  Hell, I have *lots* of guns.  Big ones, small ones, > loud ones, some with silencers (oops – I didn’t say > that…shhhhhhhh….), revolvers, semi-autos, pump- > action shotguns…man, I can *accessorize* with > ‘em…lemme see, now – today, it’s blue jeans > and a T-shirt…hmmm….I’m feelin’ adventurous, > how about the S&W .357 Magnum snub-nose with > the rosewood grips?  Just right for makin’ spineless > Euro-weenies buy shitty American videotapes.  "Hey, > YOU!  That’s right, you.  C’mere, Froggy.  No, DON’T > plunk your magic twanger, we have *laws* against > that shit here.  See this?  It’s "Die Hard," starring > Bruce Willis.  Take this over to the checkout and > buy it.  Tell ‘em the CIA says you get a 40% discount. > Pick up some fried pork rinds, a six-pack of Budweiser, > and get your Jerry Lewis-worshippin’ ass back to your > hovel and watch it.  If you don’t, I’m gonna blow your > enormous nose off.  Hell, I might just blow your pinky > toe off for target practice.  GIT MOVIN’!  Yippee Ki-yay, > Mother-Fucker!" > It don’t get any better’n this.  ;-) > Lord Valve > American (and you can like it or kiss my fat Yank ass)

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>…and decent Mexican food cannot be found….

Why bother?

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>What have they contributed to the modern world?

St. Simon Voltaire Sieyes Descartes Pascal Fontanelle Montesquieu Rousseau and 150 kinds of cheese.

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>You know what else France does? They are the only non-English-speaking >country with a government ministry whose job it is to coin French words >for the inventions of English-speaking countries.

The French Academy isn’t a government ministry and their suggestions are just that, suggestions. >The world over, the word for ‘computer’ is ‘computer’.

Nope. In French it’s ordinateur, in Italian it’s calcolatore , in Spanish it’s computadora. It’s "computer" in English.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You know what else France does? They are the only non-English-speaking >country with a government ministry whose job it is to coin French words >for the inventions of English-speaking countries. > The French Academy isn’t a government ministry and their suggestions are just > that, suggestions. >The world over, the word for ‘computer’ is ‘computer’. > Nope. > In French it’s ordinateur, in Italian it’s calcolatore , in Spanish it’s > computadora. > It’s "computer" in English.

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‘calcolatore’ is an alternate word for calculator. The more accepted word for it is ‘calcolatrice’. Everyone I know in Italy calls computers "computer", used both as singular and plural.  As for the French word, that was my point, but thanks for repeating it. Too bad, Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You know what else France does? They are the only non-English-speaking >country with a government ministry whose job it is to coin French words >for the inventions of English-speaking countries. > The French Academy isn’t a government ministry and their suggestions are just > that, suggestions. >The world over, the word for ‘computer’ is ‘computer’. > Nope. > In French it’s ordinateur, in Italian it’s calcolatore , in Spanish it’s > computadora. > It’s "computer" in English.

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> ROFLMBFAO!!   HAWWW!!!!   <whew>  Spit take!  ;-) > Yeah, we got armed thugs over there makin’ these poor > Euro-weenies buy our stuff.  Hell, French music sucks so > bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own > radio stations play the shit instead of American music.

Naw, they just made a law for stations not to play the Sousa shit you like to hear or any of the other lack of taste you have in music. The world doesn’t revolve around you, Lard Bully. >  Hell, I have *lots* of guns.

Well Lard, it comes to mind again. I’m sure you know how people who are deficient in one department tend to overcompensate in another department to make up for that deficiency. Naturally I have to wonder what department you are deficient in with that big gun obsession. >Hell, I might just blow your pinky > toe off for target practice.  GIT MOVIN’!  Yippee Ki-yay, > Mother-Fucker!" > It don’t get any better’n this.  ;-) > Lord Valve > American (and you can like it or kiss my fat Yank ass)

I think that’s only reserved for your toadies and not for reasonable humanitarian nonpartisan thinking individuals. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

>Hell, French music sucks so >bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own >radio stations play the shit instead of American music.

        One of the funniest things I have *ever* seen was some slick French prettyboy performing in a _RAP_ video. I was gasping for air, LMSWAO, it was just wrong on so many levels. Some folks just can’t rap – others never should – he was both ! —-== Posted via Newsfeed.Com – Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==—- http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups —= 19 East/West-Coast Specialized Servers – Total Privacy via Encryption =—

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> ‘calcolatore’ is an alternate word for calculator. The more accepted word > for it is ‘calcolatrice’. Everyone I know in Italy calls computers > "computer", used both as singular and plural.  As for the French word, that > was my point, but thanks for repeating it. > Too bad, > Freep

Every Italian I know who doesn’t speak english says calcolatore… Too bad, mark SCIALABBA

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>Every Italian I know who doesn’t speak english says calcolatore… >Too bad, >mark SCIALABBA

Hi. Italy, here. Everybody here says "computer".  The synonyms, "calcolatore" and "elaboratore" are very very rare, less than 1% i’d say. Those who don’t speak english belong to the 99%, IMHO, i.e. the synonyms are a kind of word more affected. If someone use them with me, he would appear to me a little conceited (BTW, "self-conceited" is also the historical idea we have about French…) Luca  

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Thanks, Luca. I was beginning to think it was a generational thing, since I have been speaking Italian so many years more than mark, and for all I know, the kids today *are* calling it that. I don’t talk to many Italians his age. Very occasionally, I will hear, believe it or not, "ordinatore", but I take it to mean that I am either talking to a Frenchman who speaks Italian on the side, or else I am too close to the French border (and I try not to let that happen.) To bad again, mark. Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Every Italian I know who doesn’t speak english says calcolatore… >Too bad, >mark SCIALABBA > Hi. Italy, here. Everybody here says "computer".  The synonyms, > "calcolatore" and "elaboratore" are very very rare, less than 1% i’d > say. Those who don’t speak english belong to the 99%, IMHO, i.e. the > synonyms are a kind of word more affected. If someone use them with > me, he would appear to me a little conceited (BTW, "self-conceited" is > also the historical idea we have about French…) > Luca

Response:

Give us another history lesson!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ROFLMBFAO!!   HAWWW!!!!   <whew>  Spit take!  ;-) > Yeah, we got armed thugs over there makin’ these poor > Euro-weenies buy our stuff.  Hell, French music sucks so > bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own > radio stations play the shit instead of American music. > Naw, they just made a law for stations not to play the Sousa shit you like > to hear or any of the other lack of taste you have in music. The world > doesn’t revolve around you, Lard Bully. >  Hell, I have *lots* of guns. > Well Lard, it comes to mind again. I’m sure you know how people who are > deficient in one department tend to overcompensate in another department to > make up for that deficiency. Naturally I have to wonder what department you > are deficient in with that big gun obsession. >Hell, I might just blow your pinky > toe off for target practice.  GIT MOVIN’!  Yippee Ki-yay, > Mother-Fucker!" > It don’t get any better’n this.  ;-) > Lord Valve > American (and you can like it or kiss my fat Yank ass) > I think that’s only reserved for your toadies and not for reasonable > humanitarian nonpartisan thinking individuals.

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>    One of the funniest things I have *ever* seen was some slick >French prettyboy performing in a _RAP_ video. I was gasping for air, >LMSWAO, it was just wrong on so many levels. Some folks just can’t rap >- others never should – he was both !

I saw a rapper from a Japanese video once.  Imagine these little Japanese guys pointing there fingers and folding their arms like our real Black American Rappers.  Very funny and disturbing at the same time. JJman

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Could it be? Yet another toady?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Give us another history lesson! > > ROFLMBFAO!!   HAWWW!!!!   <whew>  Spit take!  ;-) > > Yeah, we got armed thugs over there makin’ these poor > > Euro-weenies buy our stuff.  Hell, French music sucks so > > bad, they hadda pass a damn *law* to make their own > > radio stations play the shit instead of American music. > Naw, they just made a law for stations not to play the Sousa shit you like > to hear or any of the other lack of taste you have in music. The world > doesn’t revolve around you, Lard Bully. > >  Hell, I have *lots* of guns. > Well Lard, it comes to mind again. I’m sure you know how people who are > deficient in one department tend to overcompensate in another department > to > make up for that deficiency. Naturally I have to wonder what department > you > are deficient in with that big gun obsession. > >Hell, I might just blow your pinky > > toe off for target practice.  GIT MOVIN’!  Yippee Ki-yay, > > Mother-Fucker!" > > It don’t get any better’n this.  ;-) > > Lord Valve > > American (and you can like it or kiss my fat Yank ass) > I think that’s only reserved for your toadies and not for reasonable > humanitarian nonpartisan thinking individuals.

Response:

>…and decent Mexican food cannot be found…. > Why bother?

In short, your level of knowledge about food and politics and government is roughly the same — largely ignorant. RBBoemer

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Not to mention his knowledge of Italian… Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >…and decent Mexican food cannot be found…. > Why bother? > In short, your level of knowledge about food and politics and government is > roughly the same — largely ignorant. > RBBoemer

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Rap makes me sick. These "Nellies" and "Missi Elliots" make me wanna turn off the TV set with a 12 gauge. Ernst >I saw a rapper from a Japanese video once.  Imagine these little >Japanese guys pointing there fingers and folding their arms like >our real Black American Rappers.

– Is that a tube in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me?

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>>Every Italian I know who doesn’t speak english says calcolatore… >Hi. Italy, here. Everybody here says "computer".

Prove it.

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>> >…and decent Mexican food cannot be found…. > Why bother? >In short, your level of knowledge about food and politics and government >is roughly the same — largely ignorant.

If you’d take Mexican food over French then you’re the ignorant one.

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Right. Well, that settles it. Folks, pay attention to this, and learn: Under NO circumstances can TamPax be relied upon to face even the most rudimentary fact, and here’s the proof. If you still think, after this, that there is any point whatsoever in talking to him, …well, you deserve him. Killfile, here he comes. Freep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Every Italian I know who doesn’t speak english says calcolatore… >Hi. Italy, here. Everybody here says "computer". > Prove it.

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being ignorant has nothing to do with tastes in food, but there was a troll going about that stated that the state dept’ advised all Americans that when in France the food being French and not like American they should stick to burgers at all times. I love Mexican food but wouldn’t expect to eat it in France I’d be trying the local cuisine, I guess that’s what you were getting at?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >…and decent Mexican food cannot be found…. >> Why bother? >In short, your level of knowledge about food and politics and government >is roughly the same — largely ignorant. > If you’d take Mexican food over French then you’re the ignorant one.

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Question:

I am currently considering replacing the carpet with ceramic tile in the dining room, living room, family room and alcove/office areas of my home–probably about 800-1000 sq ft. My primary reason for doing this is for low maintenance, plus I think it looks nice, too.  I’m thinking of a textured ceramic tile, with the look of slate. I would appreciate any thoughts or considerations on doing this, since it is such a permanent decision.  Pro’s and Con’s? Thanks so much.

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>I am currently considering replacing the carpet with ceramic tile in the >dining room, living room, family room and alcove/office areas of my >home–probably about 800-1000 sq ft.

Regional customs, rooted in climate, seem to make a big difference in how acceptable this is perceived.  Up here in the North, people would think you are nuts, ceramic is considered cold to walk on.  And hard, too.  Our houses usually have basements underneath those rooms, so the underlying structure is wood frame. Down South, the tile it is still just as hard, but especially with the typical concrete slab construction, a tile finish is very common.  My in-laws’ somewhat high end (gated golf community) Florida place is *all* tile, every single room.  Apparently in a hot climate it is considered good to have a cool floor, even though with A/C, those southern houses are frequently cooler than our northern ones. It’s your house, do what you like.  The next buyer may want to cover it all with carpet, or may love it, but how many years down the road is that? -v.

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V, thanks for your input. I do live in the south (TX), in a house with a slab foundation, and I plan to stay in this house for many years to come.

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> I am currently considering replacing the carpet with ceramic tile in the > dining room, living room, family room and alcove/office areas of my > home–probably about 800-1000 sq ft. > My primary reason for doing this is for low maintenance, plus I think it > looks nice, too.  I’m thinking of a textured ceramic tile, with the look of > slate.

Just wondering why you don’t want real slate? Is it more expensive local to you?

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Two reasons: 1) Cost of slate is about $3/sq ft higher, and 2) Slate may be too "fancy" for the house I have, just as I would not put granite counter tops in my kitchen…instead, I purchased a granite-topped table that I love. (However, my mind is not totally closed to the option of slate…yet.)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just wondering why you don’t want real slate? Is it more expensive local to > you?

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> I am currently considering replacing the carpet with ceramic tile in > the dining room, living room, family room and alcove/office areas of > my home–probably about 800-1000 sq ft. > My primary reason for doing this is for low maintenance, plus I think > it looks nice, too.  I’m thinking of a textured ceramic tile, with the > look of slate. > I would appreciate any thoughts or considerations on doing this, since > it is such a permanent decision.  Pro’s and Con’s? > Thanks so much.

One thing that most people forget about is how tile effects the acoustics of your house.  If all of your room surfaces are hard, you will get a huge amount of echo and reverberation compared to what you are used to.  Carpets are very good at absorbing high frequency sounds, while tiles are very good at reflecting it all over the place.  It can be bad enough in some rooms to make conversation (or the television) almost unintelligible.

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… > One thing that most people forget about is how tile effects the acoustics > of your house.  If all of your room surfaces are hard, you will get a huge > amount of echo and reverberation compared to what you are used to.  Carpets > are very good at absorbing high frequency sounds, while tiles are very good > at reflecting it all over the place.  It can be bad enough in some rooms to > make conversation (or the television) almost unintelligible.

The perceived drawbacks of tile, it being cold, hard and echoing, can all be mitigated by the use of rugs. These need not be wall to wall carpeting but rather smaller things in some of the more open and high traffic areas. The advantage of small rugs is that you can wash them, replace them, even change them seasonally, without having to do any major remodeling. Between this, furniture, curtains, tapestries and the like, the whole echo problem becomes a non-issue. Anthony

Response:

> I am currently considering replacing the carpet with ceramic tile in the > dining room, living room, family room and alcove/office areas of my > home–probably about 800-1000 sq ft. > My primary reason for doing this is for low maintenance, plus I think it > looks nice, too.  I’m thinking of a textured ceramic tile, with the look of > slate. > I would appreciate any thoughts or considerations on doing this, since it is > such a permanent decision.  Pro’s and Con’s?

I know of someone who put porcelain ceramic (with the look of textured slate) throughout his house in Cave Creek. He still swears by it. The only thing he noted was that you don’t want to drop heavy stuff onto it, like in an exercise room (weights), because you’ll crack and smash the tiles, and you don’t want to drag heavy metal stuff across it (no shoving filing cabinets around) because it’ll scratch grooves into it or at least leave metallic scuff marks. Also note that this was affordable only because his house was slab-on-grade and thus the most surface prep he needed was an isolation membrane over cracks. If your house is built over a basement or crawl space I do not recommend large expanses of ceramic tile, because it will require too much surface and structural prep in order to produce a solution that doesn’t crack. A typical floor joist system is too "bouncy" for ceramic tile, especially for any homes built recently, where the floor joist systems can move up to half an inch up and down depending on how many people have just entered a room. For anything other than a bathroom, doing the additional sistering of joists and beams and the additional substrate and etc. is just too expensive. Note that those of us in slab-on-grade homes have the same problem with wood flooring — either we have to use a floating install (not entirely satisfactory, has a "hollow" sound and isn’t as durable as traditional plank flooring), or put down plywood decking on top of our slab. That undoubtedly is why the guy in Cave Creek went with ceramic tile rather than hardwood. — Eric Lee Green    GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> Two reasons: > 1) Cost of slate is about $3/sq ft higher, and > 2) Slate may be too "fancy" for the house I have, just as I would not put > granite counter tops in my kitchen…instead, I purchased a granite-topped > table that I love.

I will add   3) Porcelain ceramic is harder and more durable than slate. Don’t worry about the snobs. Do what looks good to you. Ceramic tile works well on slab-on-grade foundations like you have. Just make sure to get some spare tile so you can replace any tiles that get damaged in the future. — Eric Lee Green    GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

> The perceived drawbacks of tile, it being cold, hard and echoing, can > all be mitigated by the use of rugs. These need not be wall to wall > carpeting but rather smaller things in some of the more open and high > traffic areas. The advantage of small rugs is that you can wash them, > replace them, even change them seasonally, without having to do any > major remodeling.

Personally, I am not thrilled with a floor that requires me to immediately cover it up with something else for it to be fully functional. > Between this, furniture, curtains, tapestries and > the like, the whole echo problem becomes a non-issue.

I agree that the acoustics are mitigated by rugs, but the issue still exists.  A throw rug doesn’t absorb sound nearly as well as a carpet with underlay, and you need many of them (or quite large ones) if they are to have much effect. I certainly wouldn’t call it a "non-issue", and it should be something that the original poster should be aware of.

Response:

I put down tile in the livingroom, kitchen, dining room and hall ways many years ago. Though it gets dirty, it never get filthy like carpet can.  If you’ve ever pulled up old carpet you may know what I mean.  Tile mops clean. However, If your slab moves even slightly or cracks develop later in the floor the tile WILL crack. Get lots of extra and keep them stored out of the way because you will need them.  If a crack develops in the slab and you need to put down an isolation membrain later you will have to remove additional tile on either side of the cracked tiles so you can never have enough spares. I am in the unfortunate position of having no spares of an out of production tile so get them while you can.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Two reasons: > 1) Cost of slate is about $3/sq ft higher, and > 2) Slate may be too "fancy" for the house I have, just as I would not put > granite counter tops in my kitchen…instead, I purchased a granite-topped > table that I love. > I will add >   3) Porcelain ceramic is harder and more durable than slate. > Don’t worry about the snobs. Do what looks good to you. Ceramic tile > works well on slab-on-grade foundations like you have. Just make sure to > get some spare tile so you can replace any tiles that get damaged in the > future.

It isn’t snobbishness… it is just that things usually look best being what they are… tiles look best if they aren’t trying to look like slate, marble, wood, cork, or any other surface but porcelain.  I can’t stand vinyl flooring that is made to look like slate either.  If slate is too "fancy" for the OP’s house, then porcelain tiles that look like slate would just be silly.

Response:

Question:

Are you _really_ sure that "class" and "grade" are the same thing???? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Here it says a "class 1" (they call it "class" and Home Depot > calls it "grade) is for no foot traffic and walls only.

Response:

> I still don’t know what the heck is going on with the tile rating > system.  I still am pissed off that 3 salespeople were even more > clueless than I.

Uh, you were at Home Depot, not a specialty tile place.  Yes, a place that specializes in tiles would probably be more expensive, and possibly less convenient.  But you’re much more likely to talk to someone knowledgeable there. I like Home Depot and shop there frequently.  But I also know that it’s not a good place to go when you don’t have the expertise to make most of the decisions on your own. Want a good selection of products at a decent price?  Go to Home Depot.  Want an expert?  Go to an expert, or become enough of one that you don’t need to ask the people at Home Depot. Ed

Response:

<snip>  You’ll likely see : Home Depot stock go down the drain now.  Whenever I get pissed off : at a company their stock takes a dump.  I got mad at Sears and : Hurricane Andrew happened (Sears owned Allstate INsurance) and : caused Sears financial problems.  Recently I got mad at Adelphia : Cable due to their stinky little red modem that was replaced 2X : and never worked right, and then I find out they had a different : type and I kept getting the stinky red ones.  I got rid of them : entirely and their stock dumped.  Home Depot is next. Man, I wish I had your power…..LOL Tomes

Response:

They are different.  I think I said that. "Peggy" Margaret Mary-Theresa Brent – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Are you _really_ sure that "class" and "grade" are the > same thing???? > Here it says a "class 1" (they call it "class" and Home Depot > calls it "grade) is for no foot traffic and walls only.

Response:

It’s tile we’re talking about, not rocket science. "Peggy" Margaret Mary-Theresa Brent – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I still don’t know what the heck is going on with the tile rating > system.  I still am pissed off that 3 salespeople were even more > clueless than I. > Uh, you were at Home Depot, not a specialty tile place.  Yes, a place > that specializes in tiles would probably be more expensive, and > possibly less convenient.  But you’re much more likely to talk to > someone knowledgeable there. > I like Home Depot and shop there frequently.  But I also know that > it’s not a good place to go when you don’t have the expertise to make > most of the decisions on your own. > Want a good selection of products at a decent price?  Go to Home > Depot.  Want an expert?  Go to an expert, or become enough of one that > you don’t need to ask the people at Home Depot. > Ed

Response:

I also bought $1 tile from HD, and am having second doubts. I went to another HD and saw the same tile I bought, and saw that it was made in China.  Now I nothing against cheap imports — I mean, we are in a global economy — I just hoped that the quality of the tile was really going to be a 3 or 4. My sales guy was very knowledgeable. He knew a lot about tile, and was very helpful. I agree that a lot of HD staff do not really know their stuff, but I really felt like this tile guy knew what he was talking about. So I bought 72 boxes, for 900 sf, and arranged for a delivery next week. Then seeing the boxes at another HD, well, I really am worrying. We live in a sandy lake area, and its inevitable that sand, snow and salt get on the floors. Is yours the Maui or Noche tile?

Response:

[Post trimmed and reformatted to remove top-posting.] > Uh, you were at Home Depot, not a specialty tile place.  Yes, a place > that specializes in tiles would probably be more expensive, and > possibly less convenient.  But you’re much more likely to talk to > someone knowledgeable there. > It’s tile we’re talking about, not rocket science.

Expecting a big box home store employee to know anything beyond where the tile center is, what they have in stock, and how much it costs, is expecting too much. There’s a saying in the engineering world: "Faster. Cheaper. Better. Pick (at most) two.".  Translated into business terms, that’s "Convenience. Price. Experience.  Pick (at most) two."  If you tell me that MegaLoMart’s business model is to have a good selection of products, long business hours, and low prices, I can tell you that they don’t have experienced employees without even going inside. Ed

Response:

I talked to the department manager yesterday.  Turns out the rating system(s) have changed, so that created a lot of confusion, in addition to the salespersons’ (3 of them) total inability to explain it coupled with their reluctance to call the vendor and get for me the information I wanted. Turns out that when I bought tile from HD several years ago they used a chart that showed the hardness/wearability, from 1-5 with 5 being the best.  So I bought a 4 and was happy.  When I helped my parents select tile we looked only at 4 and they were happy. Noooooowww, all that has changed.  HD no longer uses this grading system.  Some of the manufactureres are changing to a different grading system, that grades on several different factors like hardness (how easy to break), color fastness, scratch resistance, etc.  (I don’t know them all, but it includes various things I never thought of before.)  The imported tiles are often judged only using one factor — the old 1-5 scale Home Depot used to use, with 5 being the most durable.  "Grade" and "class" are 2 different things.  I still don’t know what they are but they are different. My tile was a "grade 1", and 1 is the best.  What grade is, I still don’t know but I got the good one.  I was told they carry both class 2 and class 3  or better tiles (different than what you were told).  I think "class" refers to hardness, which is measured in something called PEI.  Whatever this class thing is, mine is a 3, which sounds OK.  On the old scale Home Depot used to use I only would consider a 4, but I am assured that the 3 will do just as well as what they used to call a 4. I still don’t know what the heck is going on with the tile rating system.  I still am pissed off that 3 salespeople were even more clueless than I.  Plus I’m pissed off I had so much hassle getting them to call the vendor.  And I’m also pissed off that I didn’t get full information on exactly all the ratings of all sorts that were done by the manufacture or HD, on the tile I purchased.  While I’m at it, I might as well add, that I am also pissed off that I forgot to tell them what grout color I wanted and instead of asking me they just put "sandstone."  This after I explain I picked a tile that will hide mud and dirt because my 2 dogs often have muddy feet and they live on this enclosed back porch during the day.  Sealing the grout will not keep it looking pristine when its "sandstone".  So they pick "sandstone"?  Jeeze, like I really want to be steam cleaning grungy grout, thank you.  Fortunately, I noticed this and changed the grout to "tobacco brown" which I hope never to clean.  Nonetheless, despite all this, I believe I bought a quality tile that will wear well. The big expense is the installation, which will cost me about 1.4K. It was nice to get a tile I liked at $1 per tile, but not if they’re going to wear poorly.  I’d rather know if they suck ahead of time and then I’ll spend another $150 – $200 and buy something better.  No big deal.  I just don’t want to spend 1.4K to install them and then find out they suck.  If the installation fails (cracks) I can live with that as HD guarantees the installation and they will come back and fix it. Hopefully Home Depot will come up with a better way of communicating to customers the tile quality and features.  You’ll likely see Home Depot stock go down the drain now.  Whenever I get pissed off at a company their stock takes a dump.  I got mad at Sears and Hurricane Andrew happened (Sears owned Allstate INsurance) and caused Sears financial problems.  Recently I got mad at Adelphia Cable due to their stinky little red modem that was replaced 2X and never worked right, and then I find out they had a different type and I kept getting the stinky red ones.  I got rid of them entirely and their stock dumped.  Home Depot is next. – Pearlz – – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I did some tile work myself recently, and got my tiles from HD too.  I > was told my their salesperson that HD only carry CLASS 3 or better for > for floor tiles.  I think grading is different from one manufactory to > another. It might be realted to more of a quality control, like first > grade, factory second,etc?? Most of the tiles at HD are first grade, > whatever that means.  You need to find out what CLASS are your clearance > tiles rated at.  If your tiles aren’t really shiny or slippery, it might be > ok. here are the classes: > Class 1 No Foot Traffic: Tile suggested for interior residential > and commercial wall applications only. > Class 2 Light Traffic: Tile suggested > for interior residential andcommercial wall applications and for > residential bathroom floor applications only. > Class 3 Light / Moderate Traffic: Tile suggested for residential floor and > wall  applications including bathrooms, kitchens, foyers, dining rooms > and recreatio nareas. > Class 4 Moderate / Heavy Traffic: Tile suggested for > residential, medium commercial and light institutional floor and wall > applications including restaurant dining rooms, shopping malls, offices, > lobbies, showrooms and corridors. > Class 4+ Heavy / Extra Heavy Traffic: > Tile suggested for residential,commercialand institutional floor and wall > applications subjected to heavy / extra heavy traffic including airports, > subways and supermarkets. > rich > : : Home Depot is coming out next Monday to install > tile on : my 12′ x 16′ enclosed back porch.  I am very confused about > : the grade of tile I ordered and maybe will want to change it. > : > : Last time I bought tile at Home Depot they had a chart and I > : checked the grade and got a "grade 4" floor tile, which I > : installed in 2 baths and an entryway.  It was a $1/per tile > : clearance special. > : > : This time I also bought a $1/tile clearance special.  The > : rating was not on the box and the salesperson blew me off > : and said it was very hard and would last forever don’t worry > : about it.  I had to get back to work so instead called later > : and asked that they call the vendor and find out the grade. > : The salesperson who did this tells me they only order grade 4 > : or grade 5 so no need to worry but he’ll check on it.  Turns > : out the tile is a "grade 1". > : > : Now I’m flipping out that I ordered a crummy "grade 1".  The > : Home Deport salesperson (another one) tells me that they > : mainly have grades 1 and 2, and that those are fine for a high > : traffic area back porch.  He says they do have some higher > : grades.  He calls these "quarry tiles" and says they are terra > : cotta in color and thicker and look like what you find in a > : McDonalds. > : > : I goto the internet, to: > :   http://www.floorstransformed.com/choosetile.html > : > : Here it says a "class 1" (they call it "class" and Home Depot > : calls it "grade) is for no foot traffic and walls only. > : > : Can anyone explain what is going on with all these miscommunications? > : Is there perhaps more than one system in use for grading tiles? > : I’m paying Home Deport 1.4K to do the installation so I don’t > : mind paying more for a good tile.  I just can’t figure out what > : the fuck is a good tile.  Why is it that 5 years ago I found a > : grade 4 at Home Deport, and now they don’t have any and a grade 1 > : is fine? > : > : Anyway, the porch is actually an enclosed deck, so the floor is > : built on top of a deck, not a foundation.  Half the deck is over > : cement and the other half is over ground, supported by piers > : sunk deep, below the frostline.  I keep 2 dogs out there during > : the day and heat the room during the day to 55-60 degrees F.  I don’t > : heat it at night (the dogs sleep indoors).  So there is a big > : change of temperature going on.  I want Home Deport to do the > : installation because they will guarantee it, and with the changes > : in temperature I fear cracking. > : > : Any help on this tile grade confusion would be *much* appreciated. > : What grade do I want? > : > : Thank you. > : > :

Response:

>Can anyone explain what is going on with all these miscommunications?

That’s easy.  The people at Home Depot are, by and large, clueless, and they make stuff up when they don’t know the answers to customers’ questions.  You haven’t bought into their sales pitch that the people who work there have a clue, have you? Now, I don’t want to insult everyone who works at Home Depot.  I assume that they must have some number of competent people there. It’s just that, by and large, the people you deal with there don’t know what they’re talking about. Call Home Depot back and tell them you want the name and contact information for the manufacturer of the tiles you ordered and the specific part number that the manufacturer uses for those tiles.  Then call the manufacturer and ask *them* to tell you whether the tiles are good enough for what you intend to use them for. Once you’ve ascertained that acceptable tiles have been ordered for this job, call Home Depot, ask to speak to the manager, and tell him that you’re going to check the manufacturer part number on every box of tiles that the workmen bring, and if any of them are not what you ordered, you’re going to send the workmen packing without doing the work.  Then do it. Another alternative is to cancel the Home Depot order and find someone who specializes in laying tile floors to do the work.  It may be more expensive, but you’ll be dealing with people who know what they’re talking about, and anyone reputable will give you a guarantee on their work.  Of course, you should get and check references for anyone you’re considering using. >Is there perhaps more than one system in use for grading tiles?

Probably.

Response:

I did some tile work myself recently, and got my tiles from HD too.  I was told my their salesperson that HD only carry CLASS 3 or better for for floor tiles.  I think grading is different from one manufactory to another. It might be realted to more of a quality control, like first grade, factory second,etc?? Most of the tiles at HD are first grade, whatever that means.  You need to find out what CLASS are your clearance tiles rated at.  If your tiles aren’t really shiny or slippery, it might be ok. here are the classes: Class 1 No Foot Traffic: Tile suggested for interior residential and commercial wall applications only. Class 2 Light Traffic: Tile suggested for interior residential andcommercial wall applications and for residential bathroom floor applications only. Class 3 Light / Moderate Traffic: Tile suggested for residential floor and wall  applications including bathrooms, kitchens, foyers, dining rooms and recreatio nareas. Class 4 Moderate / Heavy Traffic: Tile suggested for residential, medium commercial and light institutional floor and wall applications including restaurant dining rooms, shopping malls, offices, lobbies, showrooms and corridors. Class 4+ Heavy / Extra Heavy Traffic: Tile suggested for residential,commercialand institutional floor and wall applications subjected to heavy / extra heavy traffic including airports, subways and supermarkets. rich : : Home Depot is coming out next Monday to install tile on : my 12′ x 16′ enclosed back porch.  I am very confused about : the grade of tile I ordered and maybe will want to change it. : : Last time I bought tile at Home Depot they had a chart and I : checked the grade and got a "grade 4" floor tile, which I : installed in 2 baths and an entryway.  It was a $1/per tile : clearance special. : : This time I also bought a $1/tile clearance special.  The : rating was not on the box and the salesperson blew me off : and said it was very hard and would last forever don’t worry : about it.  I had to get back to work so instead called later : and asked that they call the vendor and find out the grade. : The salesperson who did this tells me they only order grade 4 : or grade 5 so no need to worry but he’ll check on it.  Turns : out the tile is a "grade 1". : : Now I’m flipping out that I ordered a crummy "grade 1".  The : Home Deport salesperson (another one) tells me that they : mainly have grades 1 and 2, and that those are fine for a high : traffic area back porch.  He says they do have some higher : grades.  He calls these "quarry tiles" and says they are terra : cotta in color and thicker and look like what you find in a : McDonalds. : : I goto the internet, to: :   http://www.floorstransformed.com/choosetile.html : : Here it says a "class 1" (they call it "class" and Home Depot : calls it "grade) is for no foot traffic and walls only. : : Can anyone explain what is going on with all these miscommunications? : Is there perhaps more than one system in use for grading tiles? : I’m paying Home Deport 1.4K to do the installation so I don’t : mind paying more for a good tile.  I just can’t figure out what : the fuck is a good tile.  Why is it that 5 years ago I found a : grade 4 at Home Deport, and now they don’t have any and a grade 1 : is fine? : : Anyway, the porch is actually an enclosed deck, so the floor is : built on top of a deck, not a foundation.  Half the deck is over : cement and the other half is over ground, supported by piers : sunk deep, below the frostline.  I keep 2 dogs out there during : the day and heat the room during the day to 55-60 degrees F.  I don’t : heat it at night (the dogs sleep indoors).  So there is a big : change of temperature going on.  I want Home Deport to do the : installation because they will guarantee it, and with the changes : in temperature I fear cracking. : : Any help on this tile grade confusion would be *much* appreciated. : What grade do I want? : : Thank you. : :

Response:

Home Depot is coming out next Monday to install tile on my 12′ x 16′ enclosed back porch.  I am very confused about the grade of tile I ordered and maybe will want to change it. Last time I bought tile at Home Depot they had a chart and I checked the grade and got a "grade 4" floor tile, which I installed in 2 baths and an entryway.  It was a $1/per tile clearance special. This time I also bought a $1/tile clearance special.  The rating was not on the box and the salesperson blew me off and said it was very hard and would last forever don’t worry about it.  I had to get back to work so instead called later and asked that they call the vendor and find out the grade. The salesperson who did this tells me they only order grade 4 or grade 5 so no need to worry but he’ll check on it.  Turns out the tile is a "grade 1". Now I’m flipping out that I ordered a crummy "grade 1".  The Home Deport salesperson (another one) tells me that they mainly have grades 1 and 2, and that those are fine for a high traffic area back porch.  He says they do have some higher grades.  He calls these "quarry tiles" and says they are terra cotta in color and thicker and look like what you find in a McDonalds. I goto the internet, to:   http://www.floorstransformed.com/choosetile.html Here it says a "class 1" (they call it "class" and Home Depot calls it "grade) is for no foot traffic and walls only. Can anyone explain what is going on with all these miscommunications? Is there perhaps more than one system in use for grading tiles? I’m paying Home Deport 1.4K to do the installation so I don’t mind paying more for a good tile.  I just can’t figure out what the fuck is a good tile.  Why is it that 5 years ago I found a grade 4 at Home Deport, and now they don’t have any and a grade 1 is fine? Anyway, the porch is actually an enclosed deck, so the floor is built on top of a deck, not a foundation.  Half the deck is over cement and the other half is over ground, supported by piers sunk deep, below the frostline.  I keep 2 dogs out there during the day and heat the room during the day to 55-60 degrees F.  I don’t heat it at night (the dogs sleep indoors).  So there is a big change of temperature going on.  I want Home Deport to do the installation because they will guarantee it, and with the changes in temperature I fear cracking. Any help on this tile grade confusion would be *much* appreciated. What grade do I want? Thank you.

Response:

Question:

I got hair line cracks in some of the ceramic floor tiles. Is there anything I can use to fill the cracks? If I have to replace them (~10 tiles), is there a good multi-purpose power tool that speeds up the grout/adhesive removal?  (good excuse to buy yet another power tool :-) thanks, /David. — |  The above opinion is mine and mine only.  | |  To reply, replace NoSpam with davidha     |

Response:

If your tile cracked then your floor (slab?) has moved or flexed or the tile was not well supported on one side.  If you replace the tile and your floor continues to move the tile will crack again.  I have the same problem and the next time I have to remove the tiles I will buy a cheap air powered chisel to use with my compressor.  If the tile was over a new slab then I would wait a long while and maybe the slab will stabilize.  Good Luck

Response:

> I got hair line cracks in some of the ceramic floor tiles. > Is there anything I can use to fill the cracks? > If I have to replace them (~10 tiles), is there a good > multi-purpose power tool that speeds up the grout/adhesive > removal?  (good excuse to buy yet another power tool :-) > thanks, > /David. > —

4" angle grinder w/ dry cutting diamond disc. a helper and a shop vac tube aimed closely at the grinder when it’s working. —  HYH =

Question:

We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. Has anyone had experience with the specific products Y-Slip or Slip-Grip?  Both Y-Slip and Slip-Grip claim to increase the traction on wet surfaces without changing their appearance.   http://www.y-slip.com/what.htm   http://www.slipgrip.com I have searched deja.com and it appears folks have had nothing to say about such products.  Anyone have comments on these products? -dan The Y-Slip patents are viewable at: http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&… http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&…

Response:

> > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > why?

There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. -d

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > > why? > There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a > consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. > -d > well at least consider one of the textured materials.  many floor tiles > today look and feel like stone and offer slip resistancy.

Thanks. It has a slight texture – it isn’t a completely smooth surface like a dinner plate or the polished finish of a toilet bowl.  We’re just trying to see what’s available to help make it a little stickier when wet. Today my wife tried an application of 511 on a tile, and that seems enough to do the trick.  If, after installation, that isn’t enough, we’ll play with y-slip or slip-grip, which seem to be similar weak acid-wash substances that make small pits in the glazed surface. -d

Response:

We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. Has anyone had experience with the specific products Y-Slip or Slip-Grip?  Both Y-Slip and Slip-Grip claim to increase the traction on wet surfaces without changing their appearance.   http://www.y-slip.com/what.htm   http://www.slipgrip.com I have searched deja.com and it appears folks have had nothing to say about such products.  Anyone have comments on these products? -dan The Y-Slip patents are viewable at: http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&… http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&…

Response:

> > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > why?

There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. -d

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > > why? > There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a > consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. > -d > well at least consider one of the textured materials.  many floor tiles > today look and feel like stone and offer slip resistancy.

Thanks. It has a slight texture – it isn’t a completely smooth surface like a dinner plate or the polished finish of a toilet bowl.  We’re just trying to see what’s available to help make it a little stickier when wet. Today my wife tried an application of 511 on a tile, and that seems enough to do the trick.  If, after installation, that isn’t enough, we’ll play with y-slip or slip-grip, which seem to be similar weak acid-wash substances that make small pits in the glazed surface. -d

Response:

We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. Has anyone had experience with the specific products Y-Slip or Slip-Grip?  Both Y-Slip and Slip-Grip claim to increase the traction on wet surfaces without changing their appearance.   http://www.y-slip.com/what.htm   http://www.slipgrip.com I have searched deja.com and it appears folks have had nothing to say about such products.  Anyone have comments on these products? -dan The Y-Slip patents are viewable at: http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&… http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO2&Sect2=HITOFF&p=1&…

Response:

> > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > why?

There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. -d

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > We’re installing glazed tile on an outside uncovered patio. > > why? > There is far greater variety of patterns/colors/styles.  There isn’t a > consensus on use of glazed/unglazed outside. > -d > well at least consider one of the textured materials.  many floor tiles > today look and feel like stone and offer slip resistancy.

Thanks. It has a slight texture – it isn’t a completely smooth surface like a dinner plate or the polished finish of a toilet bowl.  We’re just trying to see what’s available to help make it a little stickier when wet. Today my wife tried an application of 511 on a tile, and that seems enough to do the trick.  If, after installation, that isn’t enough, we’ll play with y-slip or slip-grip, which seem to be similar weak acid-wash substances that make small pits in the glazed surface. -d

Response:

Question:

> > > Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > > Steve > Just like it was in the Soviet Union. > Or China. Now THERE’S a "worker’s paradise".

Interestingly, in China the people are doing far better than anyone in China has ever done before, and they are all virtually equal in opportunity. Their system is highhanded about expression because it has to live in a world with rabid capitalists who would gleefully destroy them, so their paranoia is understandable. Steve

Response:

> Steve, have you ever been to Russia? > Kim

Nope, just Cuba. Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > > > Steve > > Just like it was in the Soviet Union. > No. They finally had an elite that siphoned off everything, also the > required paranoia to live in a world with the USA who tried to isolate > and harm them at every turn created a situation where they didn’t dare > permit their people control, for fear they were being infiltrated and > manipulated by the west, who had the capability to do that! > When we had 6000 nuclear weapons, they had 12. When we had 10,000 they > had 250. When we had 30,000 they had 800, and when we had 45,000 nuclear > warheads, many of the Multiple Insertion Rentry Vehicles they finally > had 5000 much smaller ones with poorer guidence, which scared us so > badly we finally yielded to detent and glasnost!! > Russia never got out of the caretaker phase of trying to preserve > control till they could turn it over to the people after they were > re-educated to the benefits of different economic systems and allowed to > choose. If you didn’t know what you would be in a new system, rich or > poor or an equal to all, and you had the chance to decide the system, > would you choose to have a system of equals or one which creates winners > and losers?? Most would choose equals! That’s communism. > Steve

Response:

Steve, have you ever been to Russia? Kim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > > Steve > Just like it was in the Soviet Union. > No. They finally had an elite that siphoned off everything, also the > required paranoia to live in a world with the USA who tried to isolate > and harm them at every turn created a situation where they didn’t dare > permit their people control, for fear they were being infiltrated and > manipulated by the west, who had the capability to do that! > When we had 6000 nuclear weapons, they had 12. When we had 10,000 they > had 250. When we had 30,000 they had 800, and when we had 45,000 nuclear > warheads, many of the Multiple Insertion Rentry Vehicles they finally > had 5000 much smaller ones with poorer guidence, which scared us so > badly we finally yielded to detent and glasnost!! > Russia never got out of the caretaker phase of trying to preserve > control till they could turn it over to the people after they were > re-educated to the benefits of different economic systems and allowed to > choose. If you didn’t know what you would be in a new system, rich or > poor or an equal to all, and you had the chance to decide the system, > would you choose to have a system of equals or one which creates winners > and losers?? Most would choose equals! That’s communism. > Steve

Response:

NIAGARA FALLS, N.Y. (AP) — Students arriving at the new Niagara Falls High School will get a large dose of public education — and a lesson in the power of private money. The $80 million institution is the first New York-run school to be privately built in an arrangement that gives Niagara Falls a state-of-the-art building without a penny’s increase in the property tax. “It is a revolution in school financing, partnership, programming, leadership and technology,” a beaming Superintendent Carmen Granto declared. The kids are beaming, too: Each of the 2,400 students will be issued a laptop computer, they will swim in an Olympic-sized pool, run on an indoor track, and attend shows in a 1,700-square-foot theater. They also can study in the “technology core,” a 2.5-story circular hub of glass that contains a library and high-tech research equipment. “My brother says I’m so lucky,” said freshman Stephanie Wruck, whose brother is in seventh grade. “He can’t wait to go here.” Using a so-called “lease-back” deal, the Honeywell Corp. of Minneapolis, with private investors, built the school and will lease it to the school district for 30 years for about $4.8 million a year. Under the state’s school construction formula, New York will reimburse about 83 percent of the district’s cost. After the 30 years, ownership transfers to Niagara Falls. So unusual is the arrangement it required a special act of the state Legislature in 1996 to skirt the bond process traditionally used for school construction. U.S. Undersecretary of Education Judith Winston called the school “a remarkable new beginning for education.” Across America, there are 3.5 million students in schools that need repair or replacement, she said. “This building is the direct result of your collecting and harnessing the power of partnership,” she said at the school’s opening earlier this month. “You have provided one model that other school districts may want to follow.” Neighboring Buffalo, with the oldest collection of school buildings in the state, is now pursuing a similar arrangement for a handful of schools. The idea has yet to catch on outside New York, authorities said. “With all the attention and energy and money that goes toward the physical facilities, sometimes that ends up taking away from the true academic mission of the schools,” said Joe Agron of American School & University Magazine. “This may be a way for school districts to act as any other tenant.” Honeywell called on J.P. Morgan to find private investors to raise the money to finance the school’s construction. Struggling against a shrinking tax base and with two aging high schools in disrepair, Niagara Falls embraced the concept. A special entity, 4455 Porter Road Inc., was established to serve as the financing vehicle for the project and will own the building for 30 years. In order to manage the large student body that resulted from combining the two schools the new one replaces, the architects designed four towers, each holding about 600 students and their own principal. Despite the school’s motion sensors and 62 cameras, glass walls give the building an open, welcoming feel but serve another purpose in an era of school shootings. “It’s got to be an open, safe environment,” said architect William “Mac” Rawley of the Hillier Group, the Princeton, N.J., firm that designed the structure. “No hidden corners.” For Honeywell, the unusual arrangement made smart business sense. “It was appealing to Honeywell because the Niagara Falls School District was a good customer of ours so it gave us the opportunity to strengthen our customer relationship,” company spokeswoman Kaye Veazey said. “It also gave us an opportunity to showcase some of the most technologically advanced products that we have to offer to school systems.” To get the school built, the Legislature exempted the district from a law which requires public projects to have separate contractors for general construction, electrical work, plumbing and heating. That saved the district about $9 million, Granto said, and left more room for extras, like terrazzo floor tiles, which cost $1 million more than vinyl tile. “The technology is exciting,” freshman Kim Hess said.                             *—— On the Net: Niagara Falls City School District: http://www.nfschools.net Honeywell: http://www.honeywell.com Education Department: http://www.ed.gov — How do you do Nothing?" asked Pooh. "Well, it’s when people call out at you just as you’re going off to do it, `What are you going to do, Christopher Robin?’ and you say, `Oh, nothing’ and then you go and do it. It means just going along, listening to all the things you can’t hear, and not bothering."

Response:

> > NIAGARA FALLS, N.Y. (AP) — Students arriving at the new Niagara > Falls High School will get a large dose of public education — and a > lesson in the power of private money. > Just THINK of the great schools that could be created if ALL money was > private.

Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! Steve

Response:

> Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > Steve

Just like it was in the Soviet Union.

Response:

> > Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > Steve > Just like it was in the Soviet Union.

Or China. Now THERE’S a "worker’s paradise".

Response:

> > Just think of the great society we could have if all private is public!! > Steve > Just like it was in the Soviet Union.

No. They finally had an elite that siphoned off everything, also the required paranoia to live in a world with the USA who tried to isolate and harm them at every turn created a situation where they didn’t dare permit their people control, for fear they were being infiltrated and manipulated by the west, who had the capability to do that! When we had 6000 nuclear weapons, they had 12. When we had 10,000 they had 250. When we had 30,000 they had 800, and when we had 45,000 nuclear warheads, many of the Multiple Insertion Rentry Vehicles they finally had 5000 much smaller ones with poorer guidence, which scared us so badly we finally yielded to detent and glasnost!! Russia never got out of the caretaker phase of trying to preserve control till they could turn it over to the people after they were re-educated to the benefits of different economic systems and allowed to choose. If you didn’t know what you would be in a new system, rich or poor or an equal to all, and you had the chance to decide the system, would you choose to have a system of equals or one which creates winners and losers?? Most would choose equals! That’s communism. Steve

Response:

> NIAGARA FALLS, N.Y. (AP) — Students arriving at the new Niagara > Falls High School will get a large dose of public education — and a > lesson in the power of private money.

Just THINK of the great schools that could be created if ALL money was private.

Response:

Question:

My shower tiles could be a lot cleaner. I’ve tried some of the grocery store products, but they don’t really do the job. What can I do to clean these tiles? Mark

Response:

I’ve always had good results with Dow Bathroom Cleaner with Scrubbing Bubbles (in the spray can). Spray it on and wait a bit to let it work in then start applying some elbow grease. I wear a mask when using the product since the fumes can be a bit overwhelming. Another option which is messy and would require lots of rinsing is any kind of scrubbing cleanser such as Comet or Ajax. Just apply with a damp sponge and make with the elbow grease then rinse. The only problem with this method is unless you rinse very well you will have a white residue left on the tiles. — Candide "On doit se regarder soi-m

Question:

> >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, >the new resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare >cement, and various tiles.     We are concerned about indoor air >quality, which rules out vinyl, and most carpting, environmental >reasons rule out most hardwood type flooring, cost rules out >granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some tiles, >cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and >longevity, which, together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, >and possibly some hardwood and plywood, though plywood might be >cheap enough to just replace in a few years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring >material?

Caution is one thing; obsession is another. Soon, there won’t be anything left for you to choose but beaten earth. Am I correct to assume that the "environmental" reasons to rule out hardwoods are in fact "ecological" reasons? If so, you somewhat transgress your own standards by saying that with plywood, you could just replace it in a few years. Although harvesting solfwoods for plywood is not as harmful as harvesting old-growth hardwoods, there’s no point is in unnecessarily using softwoods. Furthermore, each time a factory produces another lot of plywood for you, the workers will be exposed again to unhealthy substances in the workplace. Have you thought about a realistic compromise in your use of materials and your standards? You could use one of the newer, prefinished hardwood laminate materials. The base would be made up of glued-up wood but then so is plywood. I am sure you can find some information on the off-gassing characteristics of each. The thin hardwood veneer surface would give you an attractive, durable, hypo-allergenic floor covering that is easy to clean. With plywood, you will have to find a paint or sealer that will be environmentally friendly and give you an appearance that you and your family can at least tolerate. Why did you rule out bare cement? I wouldn’t use that either but I might consider properly sealed terrazzo flooring (small pieces of marble or granite set in mortar and given a high polish). Some applications are lightweight (6 lb/sq in.), others heavy (20 lb/sq in). Several sealers are available, including water-gased acrylic. Regards, Benoit Evans

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles.  We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? >Okay, first of all I think you’re a bit off the deep end and think too >much, since most of those flooring materials have been around for >centuries and pose no real health or environmental risks

Bull hockey. The Romans used lead in their goblets for years and look what happened to them. Just because folks do something for X number of years doesn’t mean it’s safe.    Dane Brickman   "You should learn to live        like you don’t exist"

Response:

>We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles.      We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material?

Okay, first of all I think you’re a bit off the deep end and think too much, since most of those flooring materials have been around for centuries and pose no real health or environmental risks, or at least no more than many of the other things you use and do every day. That being said, and since you have your heart set on plywood (which isn’t cheapest or best by any means, you could buy paint for less money…), and since I actually lived in a plywood-floored place for a bit until I copuld afford to put those other evil products down, here’s wht I learned: Plywood cannot go directly over concrete.  Won’t work, won’t last, cold as hell and hard to walk on.  You need sleepers and a vapor barrier.  A decent 2-3 mil plastic laid down, then 2×2 sleepers 16" on center.  Insulate in between the sleepers with foam sheets if you live in a cooler climate. Your best plywood value is (at least it was 20 years ago and should still be…) 5/8" underlayment, plugged and touch sanded (PTS) tongue and groove.  Any decent lumber yard will deliver it for you.  AC grade (A is best grade, D is worst commonly seen.  AC means A on one side and C on the other, A is filled and sanded smooth) is overkill.  PTS is smooth, and you’ll be putting two coats of a decent floor paint on it.  Yep, paint.  It’s cheap, durable, and you can paint a mosaic effect if you want, or even just different colors for different rooms. When you get richer, you can carpet over that same plywood base, or even tile over it.  Hand-made Mexican clay tiles are environmentally friendly, employ peasants who otherwise might have no job and look good for a decent price.  Leave them unsealed and the only health problems you’ll run into are the everyday dirt and grime you get on any floor surface. Jeff

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > we considered just finishing  the concrete, but it is too hard, and slipery > > when wet. > > my wife likes stuff neat and clean, I do not think that dirt will work for > > her. > You can texture concrete so that it isn’t slippery.  You can also color > it.  And now you can get rubber mats that can be used it give it the > appearance of stone, brick and other surfaces.  This combined with some > color could make a decent floor that shouldn’t cause much problem with > indoor air quality. > Matt > Three paint stores in our area only had available paints that have the same > texture as sand paper (i.e. had sand/silica in the paint), none have heard > about a textured paint for concrete that is not scratchy. > Do you know of any paints that will create a thick, softer, non-slip surface > for the concrete? > Something that will create a thick rubbery coat will be ideal.

Try Thoro — there are many others.  Try Thomas Register under "Concrete Coatings". Bob

Response:

Just move. I heard ted Kazinski have en environmenally friendy place available. -B – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi All, > Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. > We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new > resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and > various tiles.  We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some > tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. > Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, > together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood > and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few > years. > Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? > The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large > cracks). > Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? > I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is > attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting > (dirt, dust, allergens, etc) > What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? > Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? > How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? > Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the > concrete? Glue it? > Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? > What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would like > something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and > maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help > would be greatly appreciated > Thanks in advance, > -avi > — > Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 > 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 > To Email me, remove the x’s from my > Before you buy.

Response:

Actually we are now considering wheatboard. (Waiting to hear back from them regarding distributors in my area) costs should be similar to particle board.  no T&G available… but no need to worry about the glue, splinters or breaking through to the inner ply in case of a void… Still there is the concern of having the top seal coat break at the seams… I am proposing to nail 2×4’s treated wood (rails/sleepers???) and screw/glue the wheat board to the 2×4’s, also I am considering puting a vapor barrier under the whole thing. United Board Group Kevin  Smith, Sales & Marketing Mgr. 2111 3M Drive Wahpeton, ND 58075 701-642-9700 FAX 701-642-1154 PrimeBoard "WheatBoard" straw-based particle board, certified to meet or exceed all M3 specifications for industrial grade particle board.  Using renewable wheat straw resources, this product is manufactured with a non-formaldehyde (MDI) emission-free binder.  Panels are available in thicknesses from 3/8" to 1-1/4" and in sizes of 5′ x 8′, 5′ x 9′, and 5′ x 10′. We are also looking at Solenium  which should cost about $1.50-$3.00 per sq. ft. installed. comes very close to our ideal flooring, though we are still waiting to hear about the exact costs. Solenium (http://www.solenium.com) is made by Interface. It is a weave of Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) made by Shell Chemical, bonded to a fiberglass reinforced polyuretane cushion. It comes as 1 sq meter tiles  which you glue to the floor. It also has a lifetime antimicrobial impregnated. (need to research exactly what it is) I read the reviews at: http://www.ebuild.com/Archives/Product_Reviews/solenium.html http://www.floorcoveringweekly.com/story/story049901a.asp http://www.envirosense.org/ps/solenium.htm just got some samples, looks neat, the only problem is the color selection, the only colors they have are dark colors and we are looking for something light and bright. Thanks again, -avi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > One question…Suppose that you use plywood, acx-bcx or cdx, how do you > purpose to level and hide all the butt joints? i.e. warped wood, I’ve yet to > see a true flat sheet of any kind of ply and that’s not taking in to account > for the uneven slab, you gonna float the whole floor and adhere it with > what? to keep the ply from curling at the corners  ect. > Plywood underlayment is a better choice than AC plywood for your > application. > Underlayment has a thicker face (the exposed portion you’ll walk on) > and/or > solid core under the face to reduce the likelyhood of breaking through, > and > it is already tounge and groove.   The face may not be as pretty as AC > plywood > (varying by individual taste), and may have knots and putty filling > defects. > AC plywood will have a smoother, knot-free appearance, but it will not > withstand > the abuse as a floor like underlayment. > If used in a low traffic area, it may be a couple of years before wear > shows. > Add gritty shoes and that timetable will shorten.  Splinters may be a > problem. > A good sealer will help.  My wife painted a floor of particleboard and > applied stencils.  The only problem was the seams showing and the paint > breaking at this point.  T & G might help. > I’d suggest a cheap floor tile instead of leaving the plywood exposed.  We > bought an armstrong product for about 75 cents a square foot. > — > Dan > " We are all entitled to our own opinions, >  but I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person " > >Hi All, > >Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. > >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new > >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and > >various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood > type > >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and > some > >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. > >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, > which, > >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some > hardwood > >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a > few > >years. > >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? > >The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large > >cracks). > >Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? > >I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is > >attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting > >(dirt, dust, allergens, etc) > >What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? > >Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? > >How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? > >Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to > the > >concrete? Glue it? > >Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? > >What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would > like > >something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and > >maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help > >would be greatly appreciated > >Thanks in advance, > >-avi > >– > >Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 > >350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 > >To Email me, remove the x’s from my > >Before you buy.

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my Before you buy.

Response:

We are also looking at Solenium  which should cost about $1.50-$3.00 per sq. ft. installed. comes very close to our ideal flooring, though we are still waiting to hear about the exact costs. Solenium (http://www.solenium.com) is a resilient textile flooring made by Interface. It is a weave of Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) made by Shell Chemical, bonded to a fiberglass reinforced polyuretane cushion. It comes as 1 sq meter tiles  which you glue to the floor. It also has a lifetime antimicrobial impregnated. (need to research exactly what it is) I read the reviews at: http://www.ebuild.com/Archives/Product_Reviews/solenium.html http://www.floorcoveringweekly.com/story/story049901a.asp http://www.envirosense.org/ps/solenium.htm Just got some samples, looks neat, the only problem is the color selection, the only colors they have are dark colors and we are looking for something light and bright. -avi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Plywood underlayment is a better choice than AC plywood for your > application. > Underlayment has a thicker face (the exposed portion you’ll walk on) and/or > solid core under the face to reduce the likelyhood of breaking through, and > it is already tounge and groove.   The face may not be as pretty as AC > plywood > (varying by individual taste), and may have knots and putty filling defects. > AC plywood will have a smoother, knot-free appearance, but it will not > withstand > the abuse as a floor like underlayment. > If used in a low traffic area, it may be a couple of years before wear > shows. > Add gritty shoes and that timetable will shorten.  Splinters may be a > problem. > A good sealer will help.  My wife painted a floor of particleboard and > applied stencils.  The only problem was the seams showing and the paint > breaking at this point.  T & G might help. > I’d suggest a cheap floor tile instead of leaving the plywood exposed.  We > bought an armstrong product for about 75 cents a square foot. > — > Dan > " We are all entitled to our own opinions, >  but I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person " >Hi All, >Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and > some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, > which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? >The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large >cracks). >Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? >I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is >attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting >(dirt, dust, allergens, etc) >What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? >Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? >How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? >Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the >concrete? Glue it? >Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? >What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would > like >something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and >maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help >would be greatly appreciated >Thanks in advance, >-avi

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my na Before you buy.

Response:

I am also looking at wheatboard. (Waiting to hear back from them regarding distributors in my area) costs should be similar to particle board.  no T&G available… but no problems with glues, splinters, or with breaking through. Thanks for pointing out the potential problem with the seams and the top coat breaking. United Board Group Kevin  Smith, Sales & Marketing Mgr. 2111 3M Drive Wahpeton, ND 58075 701-642-9700 FAX 701-642-1154 PrimeBoard "WheatBoard" straw-based particle board, certified to meet or exceed all M3 specifications for industrial grade particle board.  Using renewable wheat straw resources, this product is manufactured with a non-formaldehyde (MDI) emission-free binder.  Panels are available in thicknesses from 3/8" to 1-1/4" and in sizes of 5′ x 8′, 5′ x 9′, and 5′ x 10′. -avi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Plywood underlayment is a better choice than AC plywood for your > application. > Underlayment has a thicker face (the exposed portion you’ll walk on) and/or > solid core under the face to reduce the likelyhood of breaking through, and > it is already tounge and groove.   The face may not be as pretty as AC > plywood > (varying by individual taste), and may have knots and putty filling defects. > AC plywood will have a smoother, knot-free appearance, but it will not > withstand > the abuse as a floor like underlayment. > If used in a low traffic area, it may be a couple of years before wear > shows. > Add gritty shoes and that timetable will shorten.  Splinters may be a > problem. > A good sealer will help.  My wife painted a floor of particleboard and > applied stencils.  The only problem was the seams showing and the paint > breaking at this point.  T & G might help. > I’d suggest a cheap floor tile instead of leaving the plywood exposed.  We > bought an armstrong product for about 75 cents a square foot. > — > Dan > " We are all entitled to our own opinions, >  but I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person " >Hi All, >Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and > some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, > which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? >The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large >cracks). >Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? >I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is >attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting >(dirt, dust, allergens, etc) >What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? >Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? >How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? >Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the >concrete? Glue it? >Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? >What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would > like >something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and >maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help >would be greatly appreciated >Thanks in advance, >-avi

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my name Before you buy.

Response:

I am also looking at wheatboard. (Waiting to hear back from them regarding distributors in my area) costs should be similar to particle board.  no T&G available… United Board Group Kevin  Smith, Sales & Marketing Mgr. 2111 3M Drive Wahpeton, ND 58075 701-642-9700 FAX 701-642-1154 PrimeBoard "WheatBoard" straw-based particle board, certified to meet or exceed all M3 specifications for industrial grade particle board.  Using renewable wheat straw resources, this product is manufactured with a non-formaldehyde (MDI) emission-free binder.  Panels are available in thicknesses from 3/8" to 1-1/4" and in sizes of 5′ x 8′, 5′ x 9′, and 5′ x 10′. -avi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> – > snip >Why ACX?  The exterior glues are even worse than the interior >rated stuff. > Most softwood plywood today uses exterior glue.  Most of the difference > between exterior and interior rated plywood is the grade of veneer used and > the quality of glue bond.  The cost of maintaning seperate glue systems is > greater than the savings. > Interior rated panels generally use "D" grade innerplys and require less > glue for an adequate bond. > Exterior glue (phenolic based) has less outgassing than a Urea based glue > used in particleboard. >sdb >–

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my name Before you buy.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> we considered just finishing  the concrete, but it is too hard, and slipery > when wet. > my wife likes stuff neat and clean, I do not think that dirt will work for > her. > You can texture concrete so that it isn’t slippery.  You can also color > it.  And now you can get rubber mats that can be used it give it the > appearance of stone, brick and other surfaces.  This combined with some > color could make a decent floor that shouldn’t cause much problem with > indoor air quality. > Matt

Another possibility we are looking at is Solenium which should cost about $1.50-$3.00 per sq. ft. installed, comes very close to our ideal flooring, though we are still waiting to hear about exact costs. Solenium (http://www.solenium.com) is made by Interface. It is a weave of Poly Trimethylene Terephthalate (PTT) made by Shell Chemical, bonded to a fiberglass reinforced polyuretane cushion. It comes as 1 sq meter tiles  which you glue to the floor. It also has a lifetime antimicrobial impregnated. (need to research exactly what it is) I read the reviews at: http://www.ebuild.com/Archives/Product_Reviews/solenium.html http://www.floorcoveringweekly.com/story/story049901a.asp http://www.envirosense.org/ps/solenium.htm Just got some samples, looks neat, the only problem is the color selection, the only colors they have are dark colors and we are looking for something light and bright. Thanks, — Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my na Before you buy.

Response:

Plywood underlayment is a better choice than AC plywood for your application. Underlayment has a thicker face (the exposed portion you’ll walk on) and/or solid core under the face to reduce the likelyhood of breaking through, and it is already tounge and groove.   The face may not be as pretty as AC plywood (varying by individual taste), and may have knots and putty filling defects. AC plywood will have a smoother, knot-free appearance, but it will not withstand the abuse as a floor like underlayment. If used in a low traffic area, it may be a couple of years before wear shows. Add gritty shoes and that timetable will shorten.  Splinters may be a problem. A good sealer will help.  My wife painted a floor of particleboard and applied stencils.  The only problem was the seams showing and the paint breaking at this point.  T & G might help. I’d suggest a cheap floor tile instead of leaving the plywood exposed.  We bought an armstrong product for about 75 cents a square foot. — Dan " We are all entitled to our own opinions,  but I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person " – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi All, >Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? >The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large >cracks). >Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? >I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is >attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting >(dirt, dust, allergens, etc) >What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? >Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? >How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? >Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the >concrete? Glue it? >Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? >What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would like >something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and >maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help >would be greatly appreciated >Thanks in advance, >-avi >– >Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 >350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 >To Email me, remove the x’s from my >Before you buy.

Response:

>         I’m sorry but I couldn’t resist….. > Hi All, >   We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > flooring, >         Ever considered dirt?  Dirt will certainly meet the above criteria …

we considered just finishing  the concrete, but it is too hard, and slipery when wet. my wife likes stuff neat and clean, I do not think that dirt will work for her. > — > Tp > —–     -<.    ——   __o > —  (   ) / (   )   —-  -<.

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my name. Before you buy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->         I’m sorry but I couldn’t resist….. > > Hi All, > >   We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > > flooring, >         Ever considered dirt?  Dirt will certainly meet the above criteria … > we considered just finishing  the concrete, but it is too hard, and slipery > when wet. > my wife likes stuff neat and clean, I do not think that dirt will work for > her.

You can texture concrete so that it isn’t slippery.  You can also color it.  And now you can get rubber mats that can be used it give it the appearance of stone, brick and other surfaces.  This combined with some color could make a decent floor that shouldn’t cause much problem with indoor air quality. Matt

Response:

One question…Suppose that you use plywood, acx-bcx or cdx, how do you purpose to level and hide all the butt joints? i.e. warped wood, I’ve yet to see a true flat sheet of any kind of ply and that’s not taking in to account for the uneven slab, you gonna float the whole floor and adhere it with what? to keep the ply from curling at the corners  ect.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Plywood underlayment is a better choice than AC plywood for your > application. > Underlayment has a thicker face (the exposed portion you’ll walk on) and/or > solid core under the face to reduce the likelyhood of breaking through, and > it is already tounge and groove.   The face may not be as pretty as AC > plywood > (varying by individual taste), and may have knots and putty filling defects. > AC plywood will have a smoother, knot-free appearance, but it will not > withstand > the abuse as a floor like underlayment. > If used in a low traffic area, it may be a couple of years before wear > shows. > Add gritty shoes and that timetable will shorten.  Splinters may be a > problem. > A good sealer will help.  My wife painted a floor of particleboard and > applied stencils.  The only problem was the seams showing and the paint > breaking at this point.  T & G might help. > I’d suggest a cheap floor tile instead of leaving the plywood exposed.  We > bought an armstrong product for about 75 cents a square foot. > — > Dan > " We are all entitled to our own opinions, >  but I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person " >Hi All, >Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and > some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. >Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, > which, >together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood >and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few >years. >Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? >The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large >cracks). >Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? >I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is >attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting >(dirt, dust, allergens, etc) >What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? >Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? >How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? >Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the >concrete? Glue it? >Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? >What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would > like >something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and >maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help >would be greatly appreciated >Thanks in advance, >-avi >– >Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 >350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 >To Email me, remove the x’s from my >Before you buy.

Response:

Funny this came up I just saw a home on the HGTV channel using oriented strand board with several coats of Shellac or Laquer, not sure which it was.  One way to hide the butt joints is to NOT hide them.  You could use something like a 1/2 inch wide piece of solid wood between each joint. This way you could custom fit each piece of ply so you’d not have any gaps and if you then cover the floor with some kind of coating or even stain it and cover it you could have a very attractive pattern. Bill > One question…Suppose that you use plywood, acx-bcx or cdx, how do you > purpose to level and hide all the butt joints? i.e. warped wood, I’ve yet to > see a true flat sheet of any kind of ply and that’s not taking in to account > for the uneven slab, you gonna float the whole floor and adhere it with > what? to keep the ply from curling at the corners  ect.

Before you buy.

Response:

A decorative paint finish might look good too:  stencilling, faux tiles, whatever.

  kazimiej.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A decorative paint finish might look good too:  stencilling, faux tiles, > whatever. > You guys missed the point.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> we considered just finishing  the concrete, but it is too hard, and slipery > when wet. > my wife likes stuff neat and clean, I do not think that dirt will work for > her. > You can texture concrete so that it isn’t slippery.  You can also color > it.  And now you can get rubber mats that can be used it give it the > appearance of stone, brick and other surfaces.  This combined with some > color could make a decent floor that shouldn’t cause much problem with > indoor air quality. > Matt

Three paint stores in our area only had available paints that have the same texture as sand paper (i.e. had sand/silica in the paint), none have heard about a textured paint for concrete that is not scratchy. Do you know of any paints that will create a thick, softer, non-slip surface for the concrete? Something that will create a thick rubbery coat will be ideal. Thanks, — Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my name Before you buy.

Response:

Why not use concrete? we’ve done a couple houses and once you seal em just damp mop and presto there clean. Your problem is that everything that’s common for floors, you won’t use. Good Luck.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. > We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new > resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and > various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some > tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. > Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, > together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood > and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few > years. > Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? > The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large > cracks). > Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? > I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is > attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting > (dirt, dust, allergens, etc) > What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? > Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? > How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? > Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the > concrete? Glue it? > Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? > What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would like > something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and > maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help > would be greatly appreciated > Thanks in advance, > -avi > — > Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 > 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 > To Email me, remove the x’s from my > Before you buy.

Response:

        I’m sorry but I couldn’t resist….. > Hi All, >   We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > flooring,

        Ever considered dirt?  Dirt will certainly meet the above criteria … > —

Tp —–     -<.    ——   __o —  (   ) / (   )   —-  -<.

Response:

> Why not use concrete? we’ve done a couple houses and once you seal em just > damp mop and presto there clean. Your problem is that everything that’s > common for floors, you won’t use. Good Luck.

We have considered concrete, thing is that it is just too hard (we have a two year old and expect to have to more kids), and too slippery, especially when wet.  Our concrete is also very uneven and wavy, and has lots of cracks and gaps… (long story why …) I guess I used the wrong language, I am not refusing to use any type of flooring, I was just trying to rank them in order of preference, with cost being a major factor, followed closely by health, comfort, ease of maintenance, environmental issues, practicality, and durability. using plywood seemed like a good compromise, however I wanted to know what is the opinion of people in this group, before making any decisions.  did not realize the health issues with the glue in the plywood, however there is plywood all over the house, since the engineer specified lots of sheer walls all over the place… Thanks again for all your help. -avi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi All, > Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. > We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new > resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and > various tiles. We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood > type > flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and > some > tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. > Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, > which, > together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood > and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few > years. > Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? > The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large > cracks). > Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? > I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is > attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting > (dirt, dust, allergens, etc) > What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? > Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? > How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? > Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the > concrete? Glue it? > Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? > What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would > like > something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and > maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help > would be greatly appreciated > Thanks in advance, > -avi > — > Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 > 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 > To Email me, remove the x’s from my > Before you buy.

– Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my Before you buy.

Response:

Rock would work well.  But its expensive.   Plywood has about the asm air quality issues as carpet and vinyl because of the formaldihides and glues that are used in its production.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >        I’m sorry but I couldn’t resist….. > Hi All, >   We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out > vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type > flooring, >        Ever considered dirt?  Dirt will certainly meet the above criteria … > — >Tp >—–     -<.    ——   __o >—  (   ) / (   )   —-  -<.

Response:

<snip> >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles.      We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out >vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type >flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some >tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium.

<snip> Well, plywood is "glued" together, I’m not sure that it would assuage your indoor air quality concerns.  I don’t see what the environmental problem is with oak or maple floors; those are domestic (to the US) hardwoods, there is more forest in the US now than there was 100 years ago, and where I live we cut up the maple to burn, that and the ones that are falling down dead from being too old and rotted….  Not so cheap, but you can install it yourself and it is not glued together. Whatever, best wishes on whatever you choose. -v.

Response:

> <snip> >We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new >resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and >various tiles. … > Whatever, best wishes on whatever you choose. > -v.

Another alternative is recovered hardwood flooring — that which is being torn out of another building.  If you don’t mind a somewhat mixed bag of shades (all oak), here in Houston at least it’s cheaper than new solid hardwood. Wendy W.

Response:

Hi All, Due to budget constrains we are looking at cheap flooring alternatives. We originally looked at hardwood, cork, real linoleum, carpeting, the new resilient textile Solenium (http://www.solenium.com), bare cement, and various tiles.  We are concerned about indoor air quality, which rules out vinyl, and most carpting, environmental reasons rule out most hardwood type flooring, cost rules out granite, marble, "environmental" hardwoods, and some tiles, cost/availability might rule out Solenium. Another criteria is upkeep and maintenance, durability and longevity, which, together with cost, rule out cork and linoleum, and possibly some hardwood and plywood, though plywood might be cheap enough to just replace in a few years. Does anyone has any experience with using plywood as a flooring material? The house has a concrete slab (and a very uneven slab with lots of large cracks). Can I just put 4×8 plywood, sand it and seal it? I know it would not last as long as hardwood floor, but the cost is attractive, and it does not have the negatives associated with carpeting (dirt, dust, allergens, etc) What types of plywood would be best for this application? Thickness? Would I need a vapor barrier between the plywood and the concrete slab? How would I float the plywood over the concrete slab? Would I need a pad under the plywood? Or do I just nail the plywood to the concrete? Glue it? Do I need to put a  tong and grove on the plywood? What should I use to seal it?  (for indoor air quality reasons, we would like something with low VOC, or natural alternatives, though upkeep and maintenance are also important, i.e., natural wax is ruled out) Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance, -avi — Over TheNet   http://www.otn.com/   (805) 384-1144 350 N. Lantana Suite 208, Camarillo, CA 93011-1499 To Email me, remove the x’s from my Before you buy.

Response: