Question:

Which is better and more cheap?

Response:

> Which is better and more cheap?

You’ve given no details.  Are we talking furnaces?  Space heaters?  Water heaters?  What type of gas are you talking about? -Tim

Response:

> Which is better and more cheap?

That’s impossible to answer unless you know the unit price of gas and electricity in your area but I think you will find that gas is usually cheaper than electricity.  As to which is better.  Whichever is cheaper is better in my opinion. Don

Response:

> > Which is better and more cheap? > That’s impossible to answer unless you know the unit price of gas and > electricity in your area but I think you will find that gas is usually > cheaper than electricity.  As to which is better.  Whichever is cheaper > is better in my opinion. > Don

Cheaper is not necessarily better! If you install a forced-air system, it can include an electric or gas or oil or even wood-burning furnace! Then you have the option to add air-conditioning or an air filter later! If you want the cheapest, use base-board electric heaters. They are, essentially 100% efficient (there is no heat lost through exhaust) You can then control each room seperately. But don’t complain that it’s too hot in summer and you have no circulation or air-condition. Nat gas or propane are the next most efficient sources, their exhaust is almost cold and goes out through a standard ABS pipe! Good Luck!

Response:

> If you want the cheapest, use base-board electric heaters. They > are, essentially 100% efficient (there is no heat lost through > exhaust)

I’m pretty sure he meant "cheapest to run".  Electric heat is a lousy option just about anywhere, except maybe as a seldom-used backup or an area that only gets cold (or used) once in a blue moon. -Tim

Response:

> If you want the cheapest, use base-board electric heaters. They > are, essentially 100% efficient (there is no heat lost through > exhaust) > I’m pretty sure he meant "cheapest to run".  Electric

heat is a lousy option > just about anywhere, except maybe as a seldom-used

backup or an area that > only gets cold (or used) once in a blue moon. > -Tim

I would think that electric heat would be the most expensive to run. Burning the gas to heat the water to turn the dynamo to loss in the transmission line and then turn it back into heat again is much more expensive than just burning the gas yourself and using the heat to keep warm. TR

Response:

> I would think that electric heat would be the most > expensive to run.

Isn’t that just what I said? -Tim

Response:

message

.net… > I would think that electric heat would be the most > expensive to run. > Isn’t that just what I said? > -Tim

Yes, it is. I added my opinion to yours. Does it appear to you as if I’m contradicting you? TR

Response:

it is. I added my opinion to yours. > Does it appear > to you as if I’m contradicting you?

Yes it did.  My bad. -Tim

Response:

Let’s do a few calculations. When you include all charges, gas in my area is currently priced at about $0.80  per therm.  Check with your gas company to get the exact rate. (A therm is 100,000 BTU).  Assuming a 90% efficient furnace (again, this can vary, see www.carrier.com for more info), it will cost you $0.80 *  .90 for 100,000 BTU of heat, which works out to $0.72 for 100,000 BTU of gas heat. Electricity in my area is currently priced at about $0.10 per KWH.  There are 3.41 BTU / hour per watt hour, which works out to 3410 BTU per KWH.  So, for $0.10, you get 3410 BTU.  An electric resistance heater is essentially 100% efficient.  So, for $1.00, you get 34100 BTU of electric heat.  That equates to about $2.90 for 100,000 BTU of electric heat. At current prices, the choice is obvious:  You save over $2.00 per therm for gas versus. electric heat. However, you won’t find electric resistance heat used nowadays in many places.  Instead, you’ll find heat pumps, which, depending upon the model and the outside temperature, are about 2 to 3 times as efficient as eletric resistance heat.  So, with a very efficient heat pump, you might spend only $1.00 for 100,000 BTU of heat, but that’s still more expensive than gas.  A heat pump is, however, less expensive to install than a gas furnace and an air conditioner, so builders of moderate cost homes often use heat pumps instead of gas. Did I do all the calculations correctly?  Comments are welcome.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Which is better and more cheap?

Response:

: Let’s do a few calculations. : : When you include all charges, gas in my area is currently priced at about : $0.80  per therm.  Check with your gas company to get the exact rate. (A : therm is 100,000 BTU).  Assuming a 90% efficient furnace (again, this can : vary, see www.carrier.com for more info), it will cost you $0.80 *  .90 for : 100,000 BTU of heat, which works out to $0.72 for 100,000 BTU of gas heat. : : Electricity in my area is currently priced at about $0.10 per KWH.  There : are 3.41 BTU / hour per watt hour, which works out to 3410 BTU per KWH. So, : for $0.10, you get 3410 BTU.  An electric resistance heater is essentially : 100% efficient.  So, for $1.00, you get 34100 BTU of electric heat.  That : equates to about $2.90 for 100,000 BTU of electric heat. : : At current prices, the choice is obvious:  You save over $2.00 per therm for : gas versus. electric heat. : : However, you won’t find electric resistance heat used nowadays in many : places.  Instead, you’ll find heat pumps, which, depending upon the model : and the outside temperature, are about 2 to 3 times as efficient as eletric : resistance heat.  So, with a very efficient heat pump, you might spend only : $1.00 for 100,000 BTU of heat, but that’s still more expensive than gas. A : heat pump is, however, less expensive to install than a gas furnace and an : air conditioner, so builders of moderate cost homes often use heat pumps : instead of gas. : : Did I do all the calculations correctly?  Comments are welcome. i believe the cost on the gas heat is incorrect…. $0.80 per therm, 100k heck if i know about the rest :o )

Response:

Yes, you are correct.  I blew it on that part of the calculation.  Thanks for pointing this out. The bottom line is that it’s still much less expensive to heat with gas than with than with electric resistance heat.  Gas also beats a heat pump by a respectable margin.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Let’s do a few calculations. > When you include all charges, gas in my area is currently priced at about > $0.80  per therm.  Check with your gas company to get the exact rate. (A > therm is 100,000 BTU).  Assuming a 90% efficient furnace (again, this can > vary, see www.carrier.com for more info), it will cost you $0.80 *  .90 for > 100,000 BTU of heat, which works out to $0.72 for 100,000 BTU of gas heat. > I think you went the wrong way here.  If your heater is 100% > efficient it would cost you 80 cents/100,000 BTU.  The fact that > your heater is LESS efficient means your cost will be MORE. > Dividing by .90 gives an approximate cost of 89 cents/100,000 BTU. > This doesn’t change your main point, but I  wanted to clarify the > proper method to get there.  :-) > –Larry

Response:

Here’s a site that gives you an easy way to compare gas vs. heat pump: http://www.energyright.com/cgi-bin/dtc?tvaparms

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes, you are correct.  I blew it on that part of the calculation.  Thanks > for pointing this out. > The bottom line is that it’s still much less expensive to heat with gas than > with than with electric resistance heat.  Gas also beats a heat pump by a > respectable margin. > > Let’s do a few calculations. > > When you include all charges, gas in my area is currently priced at > about > > $0.80  per therm.  Check with your gas company to get the exact rate. (A > > therm is 100,000 BTU).  Assuming a 90% efficient furnace (again, this > can > > vary, see www.carrier.com for more info), it will cost you $0.80 * .90 > for > > 100,000 BTU of heat, which works out to $0.72 for 100,000 BTU of gas > heat. > I think you went the wrong way here.  If your heater is 100% > efficient it would cost you 80 cents/100,000 BTU.  The fact that > your heater is LESS efficient means your cost will be MORE. > Dividing by .90 gives an approximate cost of 89 cents/100,000 BTU. > This doesn’t change your main point, but I  wanted to clarify the > proper method to get there.  :-) > –Larry

Response:

Question:

I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit.   I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail switch)? As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? Thanks.

Response:

> Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the > humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? > Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier?

Additional wiring. Of course it is easier to put the humidistat near the unit because there is less wiring; the question is, what location do you want to sense humidity in? Usually the humidistat is placed in the return air duct because looking at the mixed return air gives an average humidity for the whole house, but you might prefer that it be based on the humidity at  a specific remote location. If so you have to fish wire to that location. There is no law saying that it has to be next to the thermostat. If you have a manual humidistat (rather than the modern ones that use an external teperature sensor and adjust the internal humidity based on that reading) it may be desirable to put the control in a convenient location so you can easily adjust the humidity down when the windows ice up. > I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the > humidistat. What other options are there?  A current sensing relay > would turn on the humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, > right?  

Either current-sensing relays (electronic) or sail switches (mechanical) make sure the humidifier is not running if the furnace is off. The best way is to use neither of these, but instead the humidifier switch output from the furnace. This assumes that your furnace is not too old. >What about a > humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?

That is where the humidistat is usually mounted (on the sheet metal of the return duct, with the sensor on the back looking at the inside the duct).

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new > Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring > stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old > thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat > uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit. > I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat > but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting > to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. > Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the > humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? > Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? > I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. > What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the > humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a > humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where > are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices > and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail > switch)? > As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other > 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? > Thanks. > This is Turtle. > Have it turn on when the heat is on. The terminal W is for heat with 24 > volts. When power [ 24 volt ] goes to the heat have that power to to turn > the humitifier on. If you have no start relay to turn it on. Just get what > you have called a voltage sencing relay to turn the humitifier on with that > relay when 24 volt power from thermostat turns on the heat to terminal W . > I have now seen any real problems with any of the Honeywell thermostats. > TURTLE

this is Turtle. I lost it here. Just bring power to the humitistat / thermostat for humitiy when power goes to terminal W of regular thermostat. Then wire humitifier to the direct current and have the humitistat control it with the 24 volt power. TURTLE

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new > Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring > stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old > thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat > uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit. > I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat > but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting > to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. > Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the > humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? > Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? > I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. > What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the > humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a > humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where > are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices > and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail > switch)? > As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other > 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? > Thanks.

This is Turtle. Have it turn on when the heat is on. The terminal W is for heat with 24 volts. When power [ 24 volt ] goes to the heat have that power to to turn the humitifier on. If you have no start relay to turn it on. Just get what you have called a voltage sencing relay to turn the humitifier on with that relay when 24 volt power from thermostat turns on the heat to terminal W . I have now seen any real problems with any of the Honeywell thermostats. TURTLE

Response:

I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit.   I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail switch)? As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? Thanks.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new > Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring > stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old > thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat > uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit. > I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat > but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting > to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. > Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the > humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? > Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? > I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. > What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the > humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a > humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where > are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices > and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail > switch)? > As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other > 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? > Thanks. > This is Turtle. > Have it turn on when the heat is on. The terminal W is for heat with 24 > volts. When power [ 24 volt ] goes to the heat have that power to to turn > the humitifier on. If you have no start relay to turn it on. Just get what > you have called a voltage sencing relay to turn the humitifier on with that > relay when 24 volt power from thermostat turns on the heat to terminal W . > I have now seen any real problems with any of the Honeywell thermostats. > TURTLE

this is Turtle. I lost it here. Just bring power to the humitistat / thermostat for humitiy when power goes to terminal W of regular thermostat. Then wire humitifier to the direct current and have the humitistat control it with the 24 volt power. TURTLE

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new > Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring > stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old > thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat > uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit. > I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat > but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting > to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. > Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the > humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? > Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? > I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. > What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the > humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a > humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where > are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices > and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail > switch)? > As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other > 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? > Thanks.

This is Turtle. Have it turn on when the heat is on. The terminal W is for heat with 24 volts. When power [ 24 volt ] goes to the heat have that power to to turn the humitifier on. If you have no start relay to turn it on. Just get what you have called a voltage sencing relay to turn the humitifier on with that relay when 24 volt power from thermostat turns on the heat to terminal W . I have now seen any real problems with any of the Honeywell thermostats. TURTLE

Response:

I just replaced the old bath-type furnace mount humidifier with a new Honeywell HE360A flow-through type humidifier.  I’m now up to the wiring stage of the project.  At the same time, I decided to replace the old thermostat with a new Honeywell CT8602 (Chronotherm IV).  The thermostat uses 4 wires (RC, W, Y, G) to control the gas furnace and the A/C unit.   I’d like to mount the humidistat control right next to the thermostat but the wiring diagrams for the humidistat only show it using/connecting to the Chronotherm wiring if it’s used as a DEhumidistat/mildew control. Is it possible to use the existing wiring for the thermostat AND the humidistat or do I need to run additional wiring for the humidistat? Would it be easier to just mount the humidistat near the humidifier? I don’t like the idea of using a sail switch to control the humidistat. What other options are there?  A current sensing relay would turn on the humidifier every time the furnace fan turned on, right?  What about a humidity sensor mounted in the return/input duct on the furnace?  Where are they available (the humidifier did not come with any control devices and the "installation kit" available at the big box stores is a sail switch)? As a sidenote, how does the CT8602 Chronotherm IV compare to the other 8600-series thermostats?  Any good/bad experiences with them? Thanks.

Response:

Question:

> so we pay two grand to install a new furnace and we find that the filter > panel access door is some piece of metal held on with clips and inside there > is no frame to hold the filters, just a metal channel across the middle and > two small filters that don’t fit anything standing there in a V and they > don’t block the inflow of air as they are too small (and our old ones are > too big) so they don’t function cause the air will just flow around them.

So what did the contractor say when you asked him ? — Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada)

Response:

> > so we pay two grand to install a new furnace and we find that the filter > panel access door is some piece of metal held on with clips and inside > there > is no frame to hold the filters, just a metal channel across the middle > and > two small filters that don’t fit anything standing there in a V and they > don’t block the inflow of air as they are too small (and our old ones are > too big) so they don’t function cause the air will just flow around them. > So what did the contractor say when you asked him ?

I haven’t been able to talk to him, yet, just his answering service, who relayed a message, sorta like "i thought you wanted it that way."  and they did spell out on the contract that they were to remove and take away the electronic filter and in fact they asked several times, which now raises red flags in my mind, but they never ever discussed what was to replace the air filter holder. I mean, we are depending on them to advise us, I wasn’t expecting any kind of adversarial positioning. the message I am getting is ‘well we just did what you wanted, you said you wanted us to remove that old unit." I just don’t think they were looking out for us, they tell us that there were consequences to the request, what were our alternatives, that if we did that we would need to do this.  The old electrostatic dust filter was perfectly adequate for holding simple dust catcher filters and it could have been left there doing it’s job, especially since they didn’t say a word about not having anything to replace it.   OR if it was explained to us, we probably would have paid for what ever they would put in there to hold a filter in place, I mean it must be a standard part right?

Response:

>… in fact they asked several times, which now raises red >flags in my mind…

Huh, why is asking you several times a red flag? Do you really think "if they ask several times it must be a swindle"???? Maybe they just thought it was nuts to have a non-functional unit in the line.  Really nuts, with the contractor right there to take it out.  You just have to get the right filters. -v.

Response:

>>… in fact they asked several times, which now raises red >flags in my mind… >Huh, why is asking you several times a red flag?

It indicates they knew the consequences but volunteered nothing. The OP was supposed to be clairvoyant enough to pursue a line of questioning requiring expertise the OP would not reasonably be expected to have. >Do you really think "if they ask several times it must be a >swindle"????

Sounds more like a contractor who’d stand by and watch their customer shoot themselves in the foot. m

Response:

My furnaces used a hammock filter  which was a pain to replace,  I removed the hammock and now just place a filter at the air entry opening.  I use to large spring clamps to hold it in place at the top and a couple of bricks at the bottom — Herb Boulder, CO

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Our old gas furnace was making noise so my mom decided to buy a new energy > efficient system (though with all the new energy efficient appliances we now > have you’d think we’d save so much money the utilities co should be sending > US checks but that’s another post) > The deal is, we had this electro-static air filter thing by Honeywell, we > never used it, the previous owners had it put in years ago.  The rental co > that managed us before we bought this house said it didn’t work (probably > cause the landlord at the time didn’t want to pay for the dang filters) and > all we did was slide in regular cheap old filters in one of the slots and it > worked fine. > We didn’t want to fix it, buy new electronic filters as from what we have > been reading their functionality is dubious over what regular filters do. > again that is not what this post is about, just background. > the guys kept asking about whether we wanted to get rid of the thing, so we > said sure. > so we pay two grand to install a new furnace and we find that the filter > panel access door is some piece of metal held on with clips and inside there > is no frame to hold the filters, just a metal channel across the middle and > two small filters that don’t fit anything standing there in a V and they > don’t block the inflow of air as they are too small (and our old ones are > too big) so they don’t function cause the air will just flow around them. > what is up with that? > I’m not expecting an air filter to do much except stand in the way of big > chunks and hair, which we have PLENTY of as we own a Samoyed dog.   Our old > filters would be fill of dust and hair in about six weeks, clogged like a > lint trap in a commercial laundry.   I presume that is what a filter is > supposed to do, I assumed that a furnace would come with some kind of > filter. > Now I’m wondering if we got scammed, what recourse we have.  We did check > that these guys are legit and no serious complaints etc and they have done > business with us before and they didn’t hustle us on the buying of the > heater, that was my moms idea. > but they didn’t give any info for us to make any kind of informed consent to > the removal of the electro static filter device and indeed seemed, well not > exactly eager to have it. > The way I figure it, the ducts will get filled with lint and debris now and > we will have to have them swept/vacuumed now.

I’ll bet you that channel inside the filter door is about 4 or 5 inches wide and the filter that belongs in there is either 4 or 5 inches thick…. The furnace that heats my shop takes a filter that is 5 inches thick… 16 x 20 x 5 inches…just replaced it yesterday… getting ready for winter! Bob Griffiths .

Response:

Our old gas furnace was making noise so my mom decided to buy a new energy efficient system (though with all the new energy efficient appliances we now have you’d think we’d save so much money the utilities co should be sending US checks but that’s another post) The deal is, we had this electro-static air filter thing by Honeywell, we never used it, the previous owners had it put in years ago.  The rental co that managed us before we bought this house said it didn’t work (probably cause the landlord at the time didn’t want to pay for the dang filters) and all we did was slide in regular cheap old filters in one of the slots and it worked fine. We didn’t want to fix it, buy new electronic filters as from what we have been reading their functionality is dubious over what regular filters do. again that is not what this post is about, just background. the guys kept asking about whether we wanted to get rid of the thing, so we said sure. so we pay two grand to install a new furnace and we find that the filter panel access door is some piece of metal held on with clips and inside there is no frame to hold the filters, just a metal channel across the middle and two small filters that don’t fit anything standing there in a V and they don’t block the inflow of air as they are too small (and our old ones are too big) so they don’t function cause the air will just flow around them. what is up with that? I’m not expecting an air filter to do much except stand in the way of big chunks and hair, which we have PLENTY of as we own a Samoyed dog.   Our old filters would be fill of dust and hair in about six weeks, clogged like a lint trap in a commercial laundry.   I presume that is what a filter is supposed to do, I assumed that a furnace would come with some kind of filter. Now I’m wondering if we got scammed, what recourse we have.  We did check that these guys are legit and no serious complaints etc and they have done business with us before and they didn’t hustle us on the buying of the heater, that was my moms idea. but they didn’t give any info for us to make any kind of informed consent to the removal of the electro static filter device and indeed seemed, well not exactly eager to have it. The way I figure it, the ducts will get filled with lint and debris now and we will have to have them swept/vacuumed now.

Response:

Question:

> We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been > considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper > they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more > leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc > are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our > central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International > Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in > the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the > unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass > on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full > of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. > Thanks, > Don

You are right to give it a second thought, Don.  There are a number of important considerations as I found when I went through the evaluation process for a new house which is now under construction. Read an article  entitled, "What’s the Big Deal About Tankless Water Heaters?".  It’s available as a download from a maker of tank type water  heaters,  State Industries ( http://www.stateind.com/ ).  The article is obviously biased  toward tank heaters, but it brings out the comparison factors and there’s plenty of interesting data. I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. First, they’re much simpler. A gas or electric tank heater is easy to fix and, even better, there’s not much to go wrong.  Tankless heaters are complicated.  Some have three modulation controls (air, gas and water). Second, in my area, the city water supply has been known to fail — not often; but 3-4 times over the last 15 years.  It’s been handy to have 40-50 gallons of water in the tank for emergency use. Third, the energy savings for tankless heaters are not compelling.  Energy cost savings, if any, take years. Terry McGowan

Response:

>Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about >how you got one before the neighbors did….

I agree completely. Having used tankless heaters in Europe, they are not by any means better than tank type heaters. In fact, one of the reasons they are used in Europe is to reduce the amount of plumbing required for retrofit applications like listed (historic) buildings. Generally not a problem in the US… Someone in this newsgroup sent me a PDF whitepaper on tank vs tankless heaters a few months ago that was excellent. I’m sure he won’t mind my forwarding it. If you can handle 1MB email attachments, send me a note. — "…but I’ll be alright        as long as there’s light                     from a neon moon."

Response:

> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons.

Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – internal to the house, garage?   thanks! John

Response:

Don Beck writes: > The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot.

That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank (lifetime warranty)?

Response:

Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use house air. Terry McGowan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. > Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one > larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – > internal to the house, garage? > thanks! > John

Response:

> Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the > kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet > through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with > a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of > that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have > been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and > within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use > house air.

Ahhh – hadn’t thought about setting diferent temperatures – that makes a lot of sense from a safety and cleaning point of view. thanks! john

Response:

>>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer.

Installing one of those is a "tankless job".   OK, everyone can groan.

Response:

> Installing one of those is a "tankless job". > OK, everyone can groan.

Someone had to lighten the thread ;-)

Response:

We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. Thanks, Don

Response:

>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer. But …,cut>… Maybe the old fashioned tank full >of ready to use hot water still is the way to go.

If you have room for the tank, I don’t see it as anywhere near a no-brainer. If you are worried about standby loss, get an add-on external insulating blanket for the tank.  Yes the tankless have their fanatical zealots.  But there are indeed downsides in use, esp. w/widely varying flow rates.  I just don’t see that elimination of stanby loss is a big enough incentive to make it a no-brainer.  For a central whole-house unit, there is also no advantage over a central tank, in terms of how long it takes the hot water to get to each point of use.  Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about how you got one before the neighbors did…. -v.

Response:

> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient.  That there is not one US > business with the brains to make a profit on something better and cheaper. > And you think that is somehow convenient?  And that we need to be forced by > the government to be economical?  Contemptible.

Of course US consumers wouldn’t pay for something that is bigger and less efficent.  That is why no on buys SUVs. > Learn some thermodyamics.  Big, slow, cool, buffered (conventional w/h) > always beats small, hot, fast, on-demand (instant heaters) as regards > energy efficiency.  Always.

If this is true then why has my friend’s gas bill dropped by nearly 40% since I installed a tankless hot water heater in her house?

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > http://tinyurl.com/1i1t

That page is pure bunk from the first sentence.

Response:

> That page is pure bunk from the first sentence.

Post something other than wild conjecture to refute it.

Response:

>>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer.

Installing one of those is a "tankless job".   OK, everyone can groan.

Response:

> Installing one of those is a "tankless job". > OK, everyone can groan.

Someone had to lighten the thread ;-)

Response:

> I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your > post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All > three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a > hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand > has this? > Don

This is a bit misleading.  Some may have a lifetime warantee on THE TANK but other components such as the heating elements only have a 1-2 year warantee. Since the tankless unit has a two year warantee and does not have a tank they effectively have the same warantee. I installed a tankless heater a year ago for a friend.  She is very happy with it and has never had a single problem with the heater, even though her house has problems with low water pressure.  As part of our basement remodeling next year I will be replacing our old hot water heater with a tankless one, most likely the same Aquastar unit that I installed for my friend.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient. > Check out the boom in SUVs.  You have not a shred of evidence to > back your points, just as I do not.  Pot, kettle, black. > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way possible > including energy efficiency. > Anyway, you won’t hear from me again on the matter.  But I will > turn your question back on you, and no it is not rhetorical, I’d like > an answer.  Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA" > cheers, > -Alan

Actually, consumer front-loaders were made in the 50’s and 60’s.. Comercial front-loaders have been available ALL the time since. (just go have a look at your local landromat.). Top-loaders took over the marketplace because there were cheaper to make.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Alan McKay writes: > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way > possible including energy efficiency. > Other than costing 5x as much. > Ah, the myth of Euro-goodness.  As persistent as electric cars. > Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA" > I suppose, among other things, that they cost more, do less, and won’t > last.  More to buy, more to operate, more to maintain, etc. etc.

Where electricity is cheap, people do NOT use other sources Quebec is a lot colder that Minnesota, but because of their IMMENSE hydro-electrical production capacity, a large number of houses are heated with electricity througout the winter.. If you want to get an idea of their capacity, the LG2 LaGrande river # 2 dam), has a reservoir that can be seen from space and it’s watershed occupies a space that is bigger that twice New York State.. The planned capacities were     LG 1, 10 groups of 91 MW     LG 2, 16 groups of 333 MW     LG 3, 10 groups of 192 MW     LG 4, 8 groups of 254 MW With that kind of capacity, their electricity is so abundant and cheap that they can use lightbulbs to heat their houses in winter and still pay less than most Americans.. The only reason that waterless cost more is that the demand is low.. As to doing less and costing more to operate and maintain, I think you need to crunch some numbers to support that claim..

Response:

> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient.

Check out the boom in SUVs.  You have not a shred of evidence to back your points, just as I do not.  Pot, kettle, black. Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way possible including energy efficiency. Anyway, you won’t hear from me again on the matter.  But I will turn your question back on you, and no it is not rhetorical, I’d like an answer.  Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things have never been made in the USA" cheers, -Alan

Response:

Until the US Government mandated low flow faucets there were few "tankless" heaters that could keep up with the demand and draw an acceptable amount of current.

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way > possible including energy efficiency.

Other than costing 5x as much. Ah, the myth of Euro-goodness.  As persistent as electric cars. > Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA"

I suppose, among other things, that they cost more, do less, and won’t last.  More to buy, more to operate, more to maintain, etc. etc.

Response:

For those who actually want to educate themselves on the matter rather than spout groundless conjecture : http://tinyurl.com/1i1t cheers, -Alan

Response:

I’m willing to bet that’s it’s a Rinnai. Fantastic units. I’ve been installing their heating units in for years. We’ve installed a few of their water heaters. If they’re anything like their heaters, you can expect many trouble free years of service. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never >been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 >KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank >(lifetime warranty)? > I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your > post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All > three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a > hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand > has this? > Don

Response:

> Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the > kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet > through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with > a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of > that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have > been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and > within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use > house air.

Ahhh – hadn’t thought about setting diferent temperatures – that makes a lot of sense from a safety and cleaning point of view. thanks! john

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > – USA is not the least bit concerned about energy efficiency

Oh, so all those USA-made water heaters on the aisle at Home Depot are sold without any regard to efficiency?  No claims or advertising about what’s efficient? It appears to me they are chiefly sold on (1) cost/life, and (2) energy efficiency. > Keeping water hot in your water heater is not at all an economical way > to do things.  It is a convenient way of doing it and nothing more.  And > since there are no regulations in the US to force people to be economical > and save energy, convenience wins every time …

So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for something that is bigger and less efficient.  That there is not one US business with the brains to make a profit on something better and cheaper.   And you think that is somehow convenient?  And that we need to be forced by the government to be economical?  Contemptible. Learn some thermodyamics.  Big, slow, cool, buffered (conventional w/h) always beats small, hot, fast, on-demand (instant heaters) as regards energy efficiency.  Always.

Response:

Don Beck writes: > I’m ok with products made outside the USA.

Of course.  Just consider what it is about these things that they have not been made in the USA at all?  Answer that and you’ll understand why they’re not economical.

Response:

> Of course.  Just consider what it is about these things that they have not > been made in the USA at all?  Answer that and you’ll understand why they’re > not economical.

That has to be about the biggest knee-jerk thing I have ever heard.  Do you you even have a clue what you are talking about?  Several reason why they are not popular in the US : – size doesn’t matter – Japan (and Germany where these are also popular)   have limited space per person.  These take up very little room compared   to a huge hot water tank. – USA is not the least bit concerned about energy efficiency Keeping water hot in your water heater is not at all an economical way to do things.  It is a convenient way of doing it and nothing more.  And since there are no regulations in the US to force people to be economical and save energy, convenience wins every time … cheers, -Alan

Response:

Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use house air. Terry McGowan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. > Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one > larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – > internal to the house, garage? > thanks! > John

Response:

>That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never >been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 >KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank >(lifetime warranty)?

I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand has this? Don

Response:

>Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about >how you got one before the neighbors did….

I agree completely. Having used tankless heaters in Europe, they are not by any means better than tank type heaters. In fact, one of the reasons they are used in Europe is to reduce the amount of plumbing required for retrofit applications like listed (historic) buildings. Generally not a problem in the US… Someone in this newsgroup sent me a PDF whitepaper on tank vs tankless heaters a few months ago that was excellent. I’m sure he won’t mind my forwarding it. If you can handle 1MB email attachments, send me a note. — "…but I’ll be alright        as long as there’s light                     from a neon moon."

Response:

> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons.

Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – internal to the house, garage?   thanks! John

Response:

Don Beck writes: > The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot.

That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank (lifetime warranty)?

Response:

We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. Thanks, Don

Response:

>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer. But …,cut>… Maybe the old fashioned tank full >of ready to use hot water still is the way to go.

If you have room for the tank, I don’t see it as anywhere near a no-brainer. If you are worried about standby loss, get an add-on external insulating blanket for the tank.  Yes the tankless have their fanatical zealots.  But there are indeed downsides in use, esp. w/widely varying flow rates.  I just don’t see that elimination of stanby loss is a big enough incentive to make it a no-brainer.  For a central whole-house unit, there is also no advantage over a central tank, in terms of how long it takes the hot water to get to each point of use.  Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about how you got one before the neighbors did…. -v.

Response:

> We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been > considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper > they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more > leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc > are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our > central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International > Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in > the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the > unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass > on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full > of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. > Thanks, > Don

You are right to give it a second thought, Don.  There are a number of important considerations as I found when I went through the evaluation process for a new house which is now under construction. Read an article  entitled, "What’s the Big Deal About Tankless Water Heaters?".  It’s available as a download from a maker of tank type water  heaters,  State Industries ( http://www.stateind.com/ ).  The article is obviously biased  toward tank heaters, but it brings out the comparison factors and there’s plenty of interesting data. I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. First, they’re much simpler. A gas or electric tank heater is easy to fix and, even better, there’s not much to go wrong.  Tankless heaters are complicated.  Some have three modulation controls (air, gas and water). Second, in my area, the city water supply has been known to fail — not often; but 3-4 times over the last 15 years.  It’s been handy to have 40-50 gallons of water in the tank for emergency use. Third, the energy savings for tankless heaters are not compelling.  Energy cost savings, if any, take years. Terry McGowan

Response:

> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient.  That there is not one US > business with the brains to make a profit on something better and cheaper. > And you think that is somehow convenient?  And that we need to be forced by > the government to be economical?  Contemptible.

Of course US consumers wouldn’t pay for something that is bigger and less efficent.  That is why no on buys SUVs. > Learn some thermodyamics.  Big, slow, cool, buffered (conventional w/h) > always beats small, hot, fast, on-demand (instant heaters) as regards > energy efficiency.  Always.

If this is true then why has my friend’s gas bill dropped by nearly 40% since I installed a tankless hot water heater in her house?

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > http://tinyurl.com/1i1t

That page is pure bunk from the first sentence.

Response:

> That page is pure bunk from the first sentence.

Post something other than wild conjecture to refute it.

Response:

>>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer.

Installing one of those is a "tankless job".   OK, everyone can groan.

Response:

> Installing one of those is a "tankless job". > OK, everyone can groan.

Someone had to lighten the thread ;-)

Response:

> I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your > post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All > three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a > hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand > has this? > Don

This is a bit misleading.  Some may have a lifetime warantee on THE TANK but other components such as the heating elements only have a 1-2 year warantee. Since the tankless unit has a two year warantee and does not have a tank they effectively have the same warantee. I installed a tankless heater a year ago for a friend.  She is very happy with it and has never had a single problem with the heater, even though her house has problems with low water pressure.  As part of our basement remodeling next year I will be replacing our old hot water heater with a tankless one, most likely the same Aquastar unit that I installed for my friend.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient. > Check out the boom in SUVs.  You have not a shred of evidence to > back your points, just as I do not.  Pot, kettle, black. > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way possible > including energy efficiency. > Anyway, you won’t hear from me again on the matter.  But I will > turn your question back on you, and no it is not rhetorical, I’d like > an answer.  Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA" > cheers, > -Alan

Actually, consumer front-loaders were made in the 50’s and 60’s.. Comercial front-loaders have been available ALL the time since. (just go have a look at your local landromat.). Top-loaders took over the marketplace because there were cheaper to make.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Alan McKay writes: > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way > possible including energy efficiency. > Other than costing 5x as much. > Ah, the myth of Euro-goodness.  As persistent as electric cars. > Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA" > I suppose, among other things, that they cost more, do less, and won’t > last.  More to buy, more to operate, more to maintain, etc. etc.

Where electricity is cheap, people do NOT use other sources Quebec is a lot colder that Minnesota, but because of their IMMENSE hydro-electrical production capacity, a large number of houses are heated with electricity througout the winter.. If you want to get an idea of their capacity, the LG2 LaGrande river # 2 dam), has a reservoir that can be seen from space and it’s watershed occupies a space that is bigger that twice New York State.. The planned capacities were     LG 1, 10 groups of 91 MW     LG 2, 16 groups of 333 MW     LG 3, 10 groups of 192 MW     LG 4, 8 groups of 254 MW With that kind of capacity, their electricity is so abundant and cheap that they can use lightbulbs to heat their houses in winter and still pay less than most Americans.. The only reason that waterless cost more is that the demand is low.. As to doing less and costing more to operate and maintain, I think you need to crunch some numbers to support that claim..

Response:

> So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for > something that is bigger and less efficient.

Check out the boom in SUVs.  You have not a shred of evidence to back your points, just as I do not.  Pot, kettle, black. Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way possible including energy efficiency. Anyway, you won’t hear from me again on the matter.  But I will turn your question back on you, and no it is not rhetorical, I’d like an answer.  Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things have never been made in the USA" cheers, -Alan

Response:

Until the US Government mandated low flow faucets there were few "tankless" heaters that could keep up with the demand and draw an acceptable amount of current.

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > Until very recently the US never made front-load washing mashines, > either, yet they are clearly far superior to top loads in every way > possible including energy efficiency.

Other than costing 5x as much. Ah, the myth of Euro-goodness.  As persistent as electric cars. > Instead of dancing around, tell me "why these things > have never been made in the USA"

I suppose, among other things, that they cost more, do less, and won’t last.  More to buy, more to operate, more to maintain, etc. etc.

Response:

For those who actually want to educate themselves on the matter rather than spout groundless conjecture : http://tinyurl.com/1i1t cheers, -Alan

Response:

I’m willing to bet that’s it’s a Rinnai. Fantastic units. I’ve been installing their heating units in for years. We’ve installed a few of their water heaters. If they’re anything like their heaters, you can expect many trouble free years of service. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never >been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 >KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank >(lifetime warranty)? > I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your > post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All > three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a > hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand > has this? > Don

Response:

> Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the > kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet > through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with > a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of > that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have > been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and > within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use > house air.

Ahhh – hadn’t thought about setting diferent temperatures – that makes a lot of sense from a safety and cleaning point of view. thanks! john

Response:

Alan McKay writes: > – USA is not the least bit concerned about energy efficiency

Oh, so all those USA-made water heaters on the aisle at Home Depot are sold without any regard to efficiency?  No claims or advertising about what’s efficient? It appears to me they are chiefly sold on (1) cost/life, and (2) energy efficiency. > Keeping water hot in your water heater is not at all an economical way > to do things.  It is a convenient way of doing it and nothing more.  And > since there are no regulations in the US to force people to be economical > and save energy, convenience wins every time …

So in your opinion, US consumers are so stupid that they pay more for something that is bigger and less efficient.  That there is not one US business with the brains to make a profit on something better and cheaper.   And you think that is somehow convenient?  And that we need to be forced by the government to be economical?  Contemptible. Learn some thermodyamics.  Big, slow, cool, buffered (conventional w/h) always beats small, hot, fast, on-demand (instant heaters) as regards energy efficiency.  Always.

Response:

Don Beck writes: > I’m ok with products made outside the USA.

Of course.  Just consider what it is about these things that they have not been made in the USA at all?  Answer that and you’ll understand why they’re not economical.

Response:

> Of course.  Just consider what it is about these things that they have not > been made in the USA at all?  Answer that and you’ll understand why they’re > not economical.

That has to be about the biggest knee-jerk thing I have ever heard.  Do you you even have a clue what you are talking about?  Several reason why they are not popular in the US : – size doesn’t matter – Japan (and Germany where these are also popular)   have limited space per person.  These take up very little room compared   to a huge hot water tank. – USA is not the least bit concerned about energy efficiency Keeping water hot in your water heater is not at all an economical way to do things.  It is a convenient way of doing it and nothing more.  And since there are no regulations in the US to force people to be economical and save energy, convenience wins every time … cheers, -Alan

Response:

Yes, the main issue was run length.  We ended up using one tank for the kitchen/laundry/lav.  The hot water run there is a maximum of 15 feet through insulated pipe in a slab.  The second tank feeds two bathrooms with a maximum run length of 10 feet.  We’re planning to set the temperature of that tank significantly lower.  Without the second tank, there would have been a pipe run of about 40 feet.  Both tanks are internal to the house and within the insulated space and both have power venting so as not to use house air. Terry McGowan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. > Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one > larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – > internal to the house, garage? > thanks! > John

Response:

>That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never >been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 >KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank >(lifetime warranty)?

I’ve changed my mind on buying a tankless hot water heater but your post is interesting. I’m ok with products made outside the USA. All three of our cars are either from Europe or Japan. I’ve never seen a hot water heater with a lifetime warranty. Can you tell me which brand has this? Don

Response:

>Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about >how you got one before the neighbors did….

I agree completely. Having used tankless heaters in Europe, they are not by any means better than tank type heaters. In fact, one of the reasons they are used in Europe is to reduce the amount of plumbing required for retrofit applications like listed (historic) buildings. Generally not a problem in the US… Someone in this newsgroup sent me a PDF whitepaper on tank vs tankless heaters a few months ago that was excellent. I’m sure he won’t mind my forwarding it. If you can handle 1MB email attachments, send me a note. — "…but I’ll be alright        as long as there’s light                     from a neon moon."

Response:

> I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe > runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons.

Just for my own education, why did you get two heaters instead of one larger one?  Minimize run length?  Where did you mount the tanks – internal to the house, garage?   thanks! John

Response:

Don Beck writes: > The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot.

That’s actually a Japanese unit.  Ask yourself why these things have never been made in the USA.  Do you really want a computerized jet engine 165 KBTU/hr power plant for $1000+ (two year warranty) or the usual $150 tank (lifetime warranty)?

Response:

We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. Thanks, Don

Response:

>We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been >considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper >they sound like a no brainer. But …,cut>… Maybe the old fashioned tank full >of ready to use hot water still is the way to go.

If you have room for the tank, I don’t see it as anywhere near a no-brainer. If you are worried about standby loss, get an add-on external insulating blanket for the tank.  Yes the tankless have their fanatical zealots.  But there are indeed downsides in use, esp. w/widely varying flow rates.  I just don’t see that elimination of stanby loss is a big enough incentive to make it a no-brainer.  For a central whole-house unit, there is also no advantage over a central tank, in terms of how long it takes the hot water to get to each point of use.  Therefore, why change, just to follow a fad, or brag about how you got one before the neighbors did…. -v.

Response:

> We own a 3,000+ sq foot home in the Denver suburbs and have been > considering buying a tankless hot water heater (natural gas). On paper > they sound like a no brainer. But the more I research it the more > leery I have become. Issues such as water flow, noise, maintenance etc > are starting to concern me. The unit I’ve got my eye on is the > Aquastar 240FX at Home Depot. This thing has more BTU’s than our > central gas furnace. I don’t want to think I’m at Denver International > Airport each time it comes on. We are also concerned about standing in > the shower with virtually no water pressure because that is all the > unit is letting out. If any of you have advice or information to pass > on it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the old fashioned tank full > of ready to use hot water still is the way to go. > Thanks, > Don

You are right to give it a second thought, Don.  There are a number of important considerations as I found when I went through the evaluation process for a new house which is now under construction. Read an article  entitled, "What’s the Big Deal About Tankless Water Heaters?".  It’s available as a download from a maker of tank type water  heaters,  State Industries ( http://www.stateind.com/ ).  The article is obviously biased  toward tank heaters, but it brings out the comparison factors and there’s plenty of interesting data. I ended up with two gas high-efficiency tank heaters (and short pipe runs) in a 2700 sq.ft. house for three reasons. First, they’re much simpler. A gas or electric tank heater is easy to fix and, even better, there’s not much to go wrong.  Tankless heaters are complicated.  Some have three modulation controls (air, gas and water). Second, in my area, the city water supply has been known to fail — not often; but 3-4 times over the last 15 years.  It’s been handy to have 40-50 gallons of water in the tank for emergency use. Third, the energy savings for tankless heaters are not compelling.  Energy cost savings, if any, take years. Terry McGowan

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Question:

I’m a new home owner and have been told that prior to winter, I should have my gas furnace maintained by a professional. Is this good advice?  What do they do? Does anyone know about how much I would expect to pay? Thanks.

Response:

> I’m a new home owner and have been told that prior to winter, I should have > my gas furnace maintained by a professional. Is this good advice?

Yes. >   What do they do?

Check to make sure that you have a blue flame (i.e., that the vent pipe is not obstructed), check the heat exchanger for cracks, use a CO detector to see if CO is escaping from the system in order to make sure that you’re not going to end up suffocated while you sleep, check for any accumulations of lint around the burner area that might catch afire and burn your house down. > Does anyone know about how much I would expect to pay?

Depends on your area, but typically modest. A reputable HVAC outfit is trying to build a relationship with you so that if you later need repairs, you will call him. If he charges so much that you feel ripped off, you’re not likely to call him. Just treat him like a professional, and expect to pay like a professional. If you’re in the computer industry, look at what a top notch consultant gets per hour in your area, and figure that you’ll pay about that much for an hour of an HVAC guy’s time. Avoid the guys who advertise "System tune-up for $20!" or whatever, they’re looking for a way to rip you off by telling you that you need work X, Y, or Z done… a professional will charge enough to cover his salary and overhead because that’s how he stays in business, rather than by ripping people off with low-ball initial offers. — Eric Lee Green          GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg

Response:

I just sold our home.  Potential buyer wanted a heating tech to look things over. He came over, poked a hole in the vent pipe, did a couple CO tests, repaired hole, then vacuumed out furnace. A month later I got a bill for over $200.  He charged me $60/hr for 1 1/2 hours of labor (he was at the house approx 45 minutes so he must have counted drive time) PLUS $80 for the CO test, plus a $10 truck fee. Nice tactic– charging a "truck fee" to pay off that bright, shiny, HUGE truck he pulled into my driveway (even though his only tools were a toolbelt, trouble light, CO detector and vacuum cleaner) I felt ripped off. And this, after I had told him I was moving 2 miles away, into a home with a 22-year old furnace.  Guess who WON’T be getting my business when that goes out… -Tim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m a new home owner and have been told that prior to winter, I should have > my gas furnace maintained by a professional. Is this good advice? > Yes. >   What do they do? > Check to make sure that you have a blue flame (i.e., that the vent > pipe is not obstructed), check the heat exchanger for cracks, use a CO > detector to see if CO is escaping from the system in order to make > sure that you’re not going to end up suffocated while you sleep, check for > any accumulations of lint around the burner area that might catch afire and > burn your house down. > Does anyone know about how much I would expect to pay? > Depends on your area, but typically modest. A reputable HVAC outfit is > trying to build a relationship with you so that if you later need > repairs, you will call him. If he charges so much that you feel ripped > off, you’re not likely to call him. Just treat him like a professional, > and expect to pay like a professional. If you’re in the computer industry, > look at what a top notch consultant gets per hour in your area, and > figure that you’ll pay about that much for an hour of an HVAC guy’s time. > Avoid the guys who advertise "System tune-up for $20!" or whatever, they’re > looking for a way to rip you off by telling you that you need work X, Y, or > Z done… a professional will charge enough to cover his salary and > overhead because that’s how he stays in business, rather than by ripping > people off with low-ball initial offers. > — > Eric Lee Green          GnuPG public key at

http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Did you ask about the price in advance, or shop around by phone? John Weiss Seattle, WA Remove NOSPAM from reply address – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > He came over, poked a hole in the vent pipe, did a couple CO tests, repaired > hole, then vacuumed out furnace. > A month later I got a bill for over $200.  He charged me $60/hr for 1 1/2 > hours of labor (he was at the house approx 45 minutes so he must have > counted drive time) PLUS $80 for the CO test, plus a $10 truck fee. > Nice tactic– charging a "truck fee" to pay off that bright, shiny, HUGE > truck he pulled into my driveway (even though his only tools were a > toolbelt, trouble light, CO detector and vacuum cleaner) > I felt ripped off.

Response:

Question:

Had about the same situation last fall and replaced the old furnace with a high-efficiency Carrier 74,000 BTU unit.  It uses a vent pipe rather than the chimney flue.  Cost installed was about $2800.  Installation was simple since existing duct work was used.  No A/C.  It worked well through the rather mild winter; but the gas bills were not significantly lower than average over the past few years.  One concern that I had about high-efficiency furnaces was noise because of the various motors and pumps. There’s a bit more noise than just a blower; but it’s not a problem. TKM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am moving into a 3 story brick row home that currently has a 40+ > year old gas furnace in it.  While it is in good shape for its age, I > am not expecting it to last more than a few years.  How much on > average will i be looking at to replace it? > -mark

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Ok, thanks.  Sounds like some good information.  The existing duct work could definitely be used.  The current furnace is nearly silent (it is belt driven), so hopefully when it goes, i can find something that is also pretty quiet. -mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Had about the same situation last fall and replaced the old furnace with a > high-efficiency Carrier 74,000 BTU unit.  It uses a vent pipe rather than > the chimney flue.  Cost installed was about $2800.  Installation was simple > since existing duct work was used.  No A/C.  It worked well through the > rather mild winter; but the gas bills were not significantly lower than > average over the past few years.  One concern that I had about > high-efficiency furnaces was noise because of the various motors and pumps. > There’s a bit more noise than just a blower; but it’s not a problem. > TKM > I am moving into a 3 story brick row home that currently has a 40+ > year old gas furnace in it.  While it is in good shape for its age, I > am not expecting it to last more than a few years.  How much on > average will i be looking at to replace it? > -mark

Response:

I am moving into a 3 story brick row home that currently has a 40+ year old gas furnace in it.  While it is in good shape for its age, I am not expecting it to last more than a few years.  How much on average will i be looking at to replace it? -mark

Response:

Question:

I may have used waste heat from a furnace of an example but I meant why aren’t there replacements for the furnace that can utilize the waste heat. So in a way his "selling me a new system" was correct. Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have no argument with what you say. But the question was about waste > heat from a furnace. You are talking about selling the guy a new > heating system. Not the same thing. > George

Response:

Yep. Your example is nearly impossable. A purpose bulit unit to replace your furnace yes. If you think that there is a market for such a product why not go for it. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I may have used waste heat from a furnace of an example but I meant why > aren’t there replacements for the furnace that can utilize the waste heat. > So in a way his "selling me a new system" was correct. > Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. > I have no argument with what you say. But the question was about waste > heat from a furnace. You are talking about selling the guy a new > heating system. Not the same thing. > George

Response:

If you are using a natural gas or oil furnace, and the flue gas is even warm, you could simply use a reverse flow heat exchanger to get that heat back. Any heat that goes up the chimney is just waste from all points of view. Using an electrical heater the best option is a heat pump, preferably with a large warm rock/water storage area to draw heat from. If you operate a generator for electrical power, it is very cost effective to recover the waste heat for home heating. But you guys know all this, right? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yep. Your example is nearly impossable. > A purpose bulit unit to replace your furnace yes. > If you think that there is a market for such a product why not go for > it. > George > I may have used waste heat from a furnace of an example but I meant why > aren’t there replacements for the furnace that can utilize the waste heat. > So in a way his "selling me a new system" was correct. > Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. > > I have no argument with what you say. But the question was about waste > > heat from a furnace. You are talking about selling the guy a new > > heating system. Not the same thing. > > George

Response:

"A purpose bulit unit to replace your furnace yes." Key-riced George are you really this dense? This is exactly what I’ve been asking about since post #1. Go find a bridge and drag your troll ass back under it. Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yep. Your example is nearly impossable. > A purpose bulit unit to replace your furnace yes. > If you think that there is a market for such a product why not go for > it. > George > I may have used waste heat from a furnace of an example but I meant why > aren’t there replacements for the furnace that can utilize the waste heat. > So in a way his "selling me a new system" was correct. > Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. > > I have no argument with what you say. But the question was about waste > > heat from a furnace. You are talking about selling the guy a new > > heating system. Not the same thing. > > George

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"Ed" … – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

It’s possible, and maybe even practical. You have to figure increased efficiency vs higher cost of installation and greater maintenance. Some of the old gas furnaces used a small thermocouple to operate the thermostat and gas valve – but not much power requred there. There has been extensive research on co-generation and use of waste heat. Currently, it is used mainly in big industrial and commercial setups. Consolidated Edison power plants in New York City send waste heat in the form of steam to several high rise buildings. The main limiting factor for home use would be the increased cost for installing a home sized co-generating power plant, and the increased maintenance. Currently, most such systems are experimental, or "homebrew" DIY type systems. CM

Response:

Dear George. Thermodynamics has an interesting comment on this. Reversible cycles. A heat engine and heat pump combined run with oil flame temperatures on one end, outside air on another end, and inside air at the third end, will, ignoring the fine details of loss from friction etc., pump much more heat into the house, if you count the BTUs, than the heat released in the oil flame. Run a simple heat engine into the house, and 60-80% of the heat from the oil flame enters the house as reject heat from the engine. The 20-40% rendered as mechanical power, however, is not just lost. It could be used to run a heat pump, as I suggested, adding a lot more heat to this. However, if we simply use the power to run fans, lights, etc., we will end up putting the heat back into the house any way. If we put it into an electric blanket, we can get additional benefit by putting the heat exactly where we want it. I think you are missing the bigger picture by just evaluating the temporary diversion of some heat energy. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ok. you are buning oil to make heat and you say to your self "Self > there is all that heat why not use some of it to make steam to run a > generator" sounds good dosn’t it > This is what is being proposed: > You start with a gallon of oil and it can be converted into X amount of > heat. Now X amount of heat keeps you house warm. > Now you strip Y ammount of heat from the total of X to make steam to > run your generator. > This leaves you with Z amount of heat to warm the house. Damn its > getting cold. Better burn more oil. > Hey presto you have more heat. This means you can make more electricity. > Shit its getting cold, burn more oil, make more electricity > What was the question? > George > George, you’re a moron. > Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) > that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this > thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with > conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your > post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is > bullshit. > You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel > genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power > to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need > heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more > heat recovery. > Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of > thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting > work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil > for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but

wasteful.

Response:

But if you are burning the fuel anyways why not get electricity at the same time? — Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think it’s mainly a question of cost. Most furnaces are simple, durable and > inexpensive. Most methods of generating electricity are not. You also have > the problem that most of the time ones desire for electricity and heat do not > coincide. > Anthony

Response:

Now I remember why I stopped posting here. You’re a moron…no you’re an asshole…get a life…blah blah effing blah. — Ed – No new material below, information is for reference only. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Turn it around run a steam engine and use the waste steam to warm your > house. Use the house warming system to recover the water for reuse in > the steam engine. > Get a life > George > George, you’re a moron. > Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) > that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this > thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with > conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your > post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is > bullshit. > You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel > genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power > to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need > heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more > heat recovery. > Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of > thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting > work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil > for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but

wasteful.

Response:

> This is what is being proposed: > You start with a gallon of oil and it can be converted into X amount of > heat. Now X amount of heat keeps you house warm. > Now you strip Y ammount of heat from the total of X to make steam to > run your generator. > This leaves you with Z amount of heat to warm the house. Damn its

No.  The steam engine does not consume heat.  Especially if the steam engine were in the basement by the boiler.  Any heat loss to the engine would end up in the house.  Wasn’t that where it was wanted? sdb — IWant: Song of the South video — any digital format  *** An armed citizenry is our safety. More guns means less crime:  ISBN:0-226-49363-6  *** Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be  sdbUse1  and host is  at  bigfoot.com Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)!

Response:

> > I think it’s mainly a question of cost. Most furnaces are simple, > durable and inexpensive. Most methods of generating electricity > are not. > But if you are burning the fuel anyways why not get electricity at the same > time?

What is the one main reason that most folks do not use solar PV panels to produce their electricity? After all, the sunlight falls on their property and it’s just going to waste for the main part. If the sunlight is going to be there anyway then why not get electricity from it? It’s the same answer I originally gave, cost. The added cost for the generator and maintenance is far more than most people are willing to pay. Certainly these added costs are not going to be offset by selling the generated electricity back to the grid, even at retail prices. Anthony

Response:

> Dear George. Thermodynamics has an interesting comment on this. Reversible > cycles. A heat engine and heat pump combined run with oil flame temperatures > on one end, outside air on another end, and inside air at the third end, > will, ignoring the fine details of loss from friction etc., pump much more > heat into the house, if you count the BTUs, than the heat released in the > oil flame. Run a simple heat engine into the house, and 60-80% of the heat > from the oil flame enters the house as reject heat from the engine. The > 20-40% rendered as mechanical power, however, is not just lost. It could be > used to run a heat pump, as I suggested, adding a lot more heat to this. > However, if we simply use the power to run fans, lights, etc., we will end > up putting the heat back into the house any way. If we put it into an > electric blanket, we can get additional benefit by putting the heat exactly > where we want it. I think you are missing the bigger picture by just > evaluating the temporary diversion of some heat energy.

I have no argument with what you say. But the question was about waste heat from a furnace. You are talking about selling the guy a new heating system. Not the same thing. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ok. you are buning oil to make heat and you say to your self "Self > there is all that heat why not use some of it to make steam to run a > generator" sounds good dosn’t it > This is what is being proposed: > You start with a gallon of oil and it can be converted into X amount of > heat. Now X amount of heat keeps you house warm. > Now you strip Y ammount of heat from the total of X to make steam to > run your generator. > This leaves you with Z amount of heat to warm the house. Damn its > getting cold. Better burn more oil. > Hey presto you have more heat. This means you can make more electricity. > Shit its getting cold, burn more oil, make more electricity > What was the question? > George > > George, you’re a moron. > > Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) > > that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this > > thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with > > conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your > > post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is > > bullshit. > > You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel > > genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power > > to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need > > heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more > > heat recovery. > > Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of > > thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting > > work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil > > for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but > wasteful.

Response:

Turn it around run a steam engine and use the waste steam to warm your house. Use the house warming system to recover the water for reuse in the steam engine. Get a life George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > George, you’re a moron. > Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) > that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this > thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with > conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your > post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is > bullshit. > You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel > genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power > to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need > heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more > heat recovery. > Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of > thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting > work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil > for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but wasteful.

Response:

Ok. you are buning oil to make heat and you say to your self "Self there is all that heat why not use some of it to make steam to run a generator" sounds good dosn’t it This is what is being proposed: You start with a gallon of oil and it can be converted into X amount of heat. Now X amount of heat keeps you house warm. Now you strip Y ammount of heat from the total of X to make steam to run your generator. This leaves you with Z amount of heat to warm the house. Damn its getting cold. Better burn more oil. Hey presto you have more heat. This means you can make more electricity. Shit its getting cold, burn more oil, make more electricity What was the question? George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > George, you’re a moron. > Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) > that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this > thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with > conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your > post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is > bullshit. > You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel > genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power > to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need > heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more > heat recovery. > Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of > thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting > work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil > for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but wasteful.

Response:

Nick Pine invents Perpetual Motion. Says he can beat the Laws of Conservation of Energy. Proves Entropy does not exist with his new formula "Bullshit, as usual" World changed forever. Free Energy for everyone. Get a life Nick! George >Entropy and the laws of Conservation of energy. Can’t beat them.

Nick says – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Bullshit, as usual.

Response:

George, you’re a moron. Given the question "why not make electricty from the same oil (fuel) that you’re making heat from", which was the question that this this thread started with, there’s nothing at all having to do with conservation of energy or thermodynamics standing in the way. Thus, your post consisting of those two items you clearly do not understand is bullshit. You can do it right now. Toss out your oil furnace, swap in a diesel genset (liquid-cooled, preferably), get a meter that lets you sell power to the electric company, and set the genset to run whenever you need heat or hotwater. Add a water-jacketed muffler for less noise and more heat recovery. Economics and noise pollution, not thermodynamics, limit this sort of thing. The energy is in the fuel, the waste heat is inherent to getting work out of it, and if you use the heat, it’s not wasted. Burning oil for heat without making it do work, that’s wasteful. Quiet, but wasteful.

Response:

>Entropy and the laws of Conservation of energy. Can’t beat them.

Bullshit, as usual. > …Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat?…

I’m aware of an ongoing program and interest on the part of some large furnace manufacturers to add electroacoustic generators to furnaces so they can power their own ignition and pumps and blowers (about 400 W) with something close to Stirling efficiency at a much lower price. Nick

Response:

John, What describe is basically using the cooling system of an internal combustion engine as a boiler to run a steam engine. I think in principle, at least, one could make it work, but whether the added weight and complexity would pay off is questionale. A couple of thoughts come to mind. One, you really can’t have the steam cylinders on a common crankshaft with the IC cylinders, because they will be a parasitic drag until the engine warms up, and even then, may not produce power at a rate compatible with the IC system. You probably be better off having the expansion engine on its own crankshaft. Secondly, it’s probably bad policy to actually BOIL water in the water jacket of an IC engine. Steam pockets would form, creating local hot spots, and lead to catastrophic engine failure. I think what you could do is to use the hot water from an existing ICE as a heat source to run an expansion engine using a low boiling point liquid such as Freon as the working fluid. Something of this nature might find application in a hybrid car, because the expansion engine could drive an auxiliary generator. It’s really another form of cogeneration. Gordon Richmond

Response:

Gas heat pumps offer an interesting example of the possibilities. Bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Perfectly correct. A small engine run from the natural gas could power both > fans and a heat pump. The exhaust heat could run a less efficient bottom > cycle with output still plenty warm for the house hold heating needs. The > mechanical power from both motors driving the heat pump would draw in much > more heat from outdoors, providing a nice heat gain and reducing the > inefficiency of burning gas at 1200C to produce air warmed to 26C. And of > course, as a minor aside you could power the fans and such. This would > definitely work quite well. It would also cost a lot and require a lot of > regular maintenance. Great for a school dormitory perhaps. Not such a great > trade off for a 700 square foot apartment warming the fry cook from > McDonalds. However, fear not, there is a solution. Make one big motor with > bottom cycle at a central point. Use electric motors to run local heat pumps > and fans. All you loose is the quite substantial amount of heat that the > power system has to reject. If you lived close to your power station, in > winter at least you could circulate the warmed water over most of a small > city for low level heating. > I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question > nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create > heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should > be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

Response:

Perfectly correct. A small engine run from the natural gas could power both fans and a heat pump. The exhaust heat could run a less efficient bottom cycle with output still plenty warm for the house hold heating needs. The mechanical power from both motors driving the heat pump would draw in much more heat from outdoors, providing a nice heat gain and reducing the inefficiency of burning gas at 1200C to produce air warmed to 26C. And of course, as a minor aside you could power the fans and such. This would definitely work quite well. It would also cost a lot and require a lot of regular maintenance. Great for a school dormitory perhaps. Not such a great trade off for a 700 square foot apartment warming the fry cook from McDonalds. However, fear not, there is a solution. Make one big motor with bottom cycle at a central point. Use electric motors to run local heat pumps and fans. All you loose is the quite substantial amount of heat that the power system has to reject. If you lived close to your power station, in winter at least you could circulate the warmed water over most of a small city for low level heating.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

Response:

> I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat?

For the same reason that other systems don’t get integrated – simplicity. So your refrigerator produces waste heat, and instead of using that to preheat hot water or even dumping it outside in summer, you dump it into the air in the house – the only thing your fridge needs to be connected to is the power (and possibly water for an icemaker). A more efficient fridge would make use of waste heat, and would make use of cold outside air during the winter, as well – but that fridge would be more expensive for the fridge folks to make, and more expensive for you to install, and more complicated to service if it had problems – so that fridge is not manufactured. You can put some of these features into your house, so that the area behind the fridge is able to be vented outside, but the fully integrated fridge would be a custom job, and the next owner of the house would probably have it ripped out and replaced with a normal unit the first time they had a problem, and the appliance guy walked in and looked confused. In the case of your furnace, you could make power with the same fuel and use the waste heat – but that would require a much noiser system, which most people don’t want in their house, as the present technology that works for this is internal combustion, and inherently loud. Both MicroTurbine and Fuel Cell are being developed as quieter ways to do the same thing, but even if/when they do work, they are going to cost a lot more to buy than your basic furnace, and you will need a technician who knows a lot more than your average furnace technician about many more systems to service them, which will also cost you more. What can be done, and what is most efficient without regard to cost, are quite different from what is done, and what is most cost efficient. Most cost efficient may not be from the consumer point of view – it’s usually more what the manufacturer is willing to spend and support, somewhat based on what they think consumers will spend. As energy costs more manufactuers may think consumer will spend more on appliances which save energy, but so far they don’t seem to think that’s much of a priority.

Response:

Float like a rock. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Over twenty years ago when I was in college for mechanical engineering I had > a idea > for utilizing the waste heat of the internal combustion engine.  It was > during thermodynamics > class when it dawned on me that the heat MAY be able to provide a percentage > of the energy > needed to actually move the vehicle. > It may be hair brained but anyways, here goes. > Take a standard, gas powered internal combustion engine and rearrange the > gas fired cylinders. > In this example let use a V – six, as illustrated, >     O    O    O >     O    O    O > At position W below, include two more cylinders with are fed water.  This > could generate > steam to drive the crank shaft.  THe gas powered cylinders could be scaled > appropriately > to generate enough heat to initially move the vehicle until the engine block > temperature > came up high enough to "Turn on" the water cylinders….. >     O    O    O >        W   W >     O    O    O > The resulting gas / water hybrid may provide 60% power with gas and 40% > steam power. > I really have no idea if it would float.  Maybe it would / could be arranged > with four small > gas cylinders and one larger water. >     O            O >          ( W ) >     O            O > Maybe someone with more knowledge could expand on it. > John > I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question > nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create > heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should > be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

Response:

I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat? The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should be able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to think of this. Any thoughts? Ed

Response:

> I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat?

… I think it’s mainly a question of cost. Most furnaces are simple, durable and inexpensive. Most methods of generating electricity are not. You also have the problem that most of the time ones desire for electricity and heat do not coincide. Anthony

Response:

Entropy and the laws of Conservation of energy. Can’t beat them. George – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

Response:

Over twenty years ago when I was in college for mechanical engineering I had a idea for utilizing the waste heat of the internal combustion engine.  It was during thermodynamics class when it dawned on me that the heat MAY be able to provide a percentage of the energy needed to actually move the vehicle. It may be hair brained but anyways, here goes. Take a standard, gas powered internal combustion engine and rearrange the gas fired cylinders. In this example let use a V – six, as illustrated,     O    O    O     O    O    O At position W below, include two more cylinders with are fed water.  This could generate steam to drive the crank shaft.  THe gas powered cylinders could be scaled appropriately to generate enough heat to initially move the vehicle until the engine block temperature came up high enough to "Turn on" the water cylinders…..     O    O    O        W   W     O    O    O The resulting gas / water hybrid may provide 60% power with gas and 40% steam power. I really have no idea if it would float.  Maybe it would / could be arranged with four small gas cylinders and one larger water.     O            O          ( W )     O            O Maybe someone with more knowledge could expand on it. John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I haven’t posted here in quite awhile but there has been a question nagging > me for ages now. Why don’t they make furnaces that produce some other form > of energy while producing heat? Why do we just burn the fuel to create heat? > The internal combustion engine produces power for the wheels of a vehicle > and at the same time provides enough waste heat to turn the vehicle into a > sauna on all but the coldest of days. At the very least a furnace should be > able to power itself while it produces heat, yet we hook it up to the grid > and incur more charges to pay at the end of the month. Others have had to > think of this. Any thoughts? > Ed

Response:

Question:

Aren’t hot water heaters sized, more or less, to the number of bathrooms?  Double the number of baths, and I would think that one might need additional hot water heater capacity.  Adding another hot water heater, right near the additional bath, might be a reasonable way to add that capacity. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have > problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate > an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional > plumbing.

Response:

> Aren’t hot water heaters sized, more or less, to the number of > bathrooms?  Double the number of baths, and I would think that > one might need additional hot water heater capacity.  Adding > another hot water heater, right near the additional bath, might > be a reasonable way to add that capacity.

Well, yes… however, not knowing what is initially installed, the capacity and recovery rate, can we say for sure? Given that there is no increase in family size, I questioned their current and anticipated future use, and the OP explained his rationale.  Reasonable. BTW, the OP will also see an increase in energy consumption and utility bills with the added tank; people tend to use up extra capacity plus the additional standby losses of another tank.  Then of course you need room for it, the gas line, venting, etc. Personally, if possible, I’d just increase the size of the original tank or the burner capacity, and add a new hot water line. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have > problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate > an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional > plumbing.

Response:

You already have the gas line, consider installing a Rinnai heater. I have no connection to them but I install them and they are virtually trouble free. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We’ll be moving up to our attic soon (gotta give the girls their own bedroom for > our sanity!) and we have to make a final decision for heating. Ceiling ductwork > is already in place for the a/c.  The contractor bought a 45K BTU gas furnace > for the heat (gas pipe has already been run for a dedicated hot water heater for > the bathroom) but hasn’t installed it yet. > I talked to one of the area’s top a/c guys (not using him for this job, but he > has a reputation for high quality work) and he said to go with electric > baseboard heat.  Said that the unit is overkill and that "they don’t make a > furnace small enough for just an attic". Said that it would be hard to regulate > the temp properly and the furnace would have to cycle on and off too frequently > to attempt to maintain a constant temperature. Also that as a result of this > constant cycling the furnace wouldn’t last longer than 5 years or so.  He > claimed that since the attic is well-insulated, and we’ll get some heat from > lower floors, that baseboard is our best bet (probably need two strips for the > main room and one for the bathroom).  House is in North-central New Jersey. > About 400 square feet, 9 foot ceiling average. > Any comments much appreciated! > jon

Response:

We’ll be moving up to our attic soon (gotta give the girls their own bedroom for our sanity!) and we have to make a final decision for heating. Ceiling ductwork is already in place for the a/c.  The contractor bought a 45K BTU gas furnace for the heat (gas pipe has already been run for a dedicated hot water heater for the bathroom) but hasn’t installed it yet. I talked to one of the area’s top a/c guys (not using him for this job, but he has a reputation for high quality work) and he said to go with electric baseboard heat.  Said that the unit is overkill and that "they don’t make a furnace small enough for just an attic". Said that it would be hard to regulate the temp properly and the furnace would have to cycle on and off too frequently to attempt to maintain a constant temperature. Also that as a result of this constant cycling the furnace wouldn’t last longer than 5 years or so.  He claimed that since the attic is well-insulated, and we’ll get some heat from lower floors, that baseboard is our best bet (probably need two strips for the main room and one for the bathroom).  House is in North-central New Jersey. About 400 square feet, 9 foot ceiling average. Any comments much appreciated! jon — zw

Response:

If it is already set up for A/C, installing a heat pump instead comes to mind.  A heat pump can heat as well as cool, and I am sure you could get one of the right size for the given living space. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any comments much appreciated!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We’ll be moving up to our attic soon (gotta give the girls their own bedroom for > our sanity!) and we have to make a final decision for heating. Ceiling ductwork > is already in place for the a/c.  The contractor bought a 45K BTU gas furnace > for the heat (gas pipe has already been run for a dedicated hot water heater for > the bathroom) but hasn’t installed it yet. > I talked to one of the area’s top a/c guys (not using him for this job, but he > has a reputation for high quality work) and he said to go with electric > baseboard heat.  Said that the unit is overkill and that "they don’t make a > furnace small enough for just an attic". Said that it would be hard to regulate > the temp properly and the furnace would have to cycle on and off too frequently > to attempt to maintain a constant temperature. Also that as a result of this > constant cycling the furnace wouldn’t last longer than 5 years or so.  He > claimed that since the attic is well-insulated, and we’ll get some heat from > lower floors, that baseboard is our best bet (probably need two strips for the > main room and one for the bathroom).  House is in North-central New Jersey. > About 400 square feet, 9 foot ceiling average. > Any comments much appreciated! > jon

Hi jon, Sounds like a 45k BTU furnace is indeed overkill for your attic space. Depending on your climate, and level of building insulation, you probably require between 2 and 3 kw of electric baseboard.  This would provide you with necessary back up heat on those very cold days.  You will need to consider your existing electrical service… can it handle the additional circuits and demand? I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional plumbing. HTH, Duane — Duane M. Tilden PEng(BC) Crown Mechanical Consulting

Response:

> If it is already set up for A/C, installing a heat pump > instead comes to mind.  A heat pump can heat as well as > cool, and I am sure you could get one of the right size > for the given living space. > Any comments much appreciated!

The difficulty with relying on a heat pump to heat, is that on those really cold days when you need the heat the most, the units cannot provide the necessary heat (unless water source or geothermal). This means that some form of back up will be required, usually electric. So, why not just go electric bb initially? Now, if the OP was planning on replacing his whole heating system with a HP system, then this would make more sense.  But not for one 400 sf room, IMO. Duane — Duane M. Tilden PEng(BC) Crown Mechanical Consulting

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If it is already set up for A/C, installing a heat pump > instead comes to mind.  A heat pump can heat as well as > cool, and I am sure you could get one of the right size > for the given living space. > > Any comments much appreciated! >The difficulty with relying on a heat pump to heat, is that on those really >cold days when you need the heat the most, the units cannot provide the >necessary heat (unless water source or geothermal). >This means that some form of back up will be required, usually electric. >So, why not just go electric bb initially? >Now, if the OP was planning on replacing his whole heating system with a HP >system, then this would make more sense.  But not for one 400 sf room, IMO. >Duane

FWIW, I agree about elec heat.  A thought: Depending on how you plan to arrange the furniture, you might consider a couple of oil-filled elec radiators.  They are not a permanent install.  I am putting an apt in my basement and the plans call for elec baseboards.  However, I realized that if a tenant wants to put a couch along the main front wall, it would cover the 8′ baseboard heater in the plans.  So, I had the electrician run 10/3 wiring instead of 10/2 so that I can easily convert to 2 120v circuits and plug in 2-3 1500 watt radiators.  Much more friendly for furniture.  If that is not a problem for the OP, then I baseboard resistance seems the best way to go for such a small space.   BTW, I looked for a heatpump for such a small space, the apt, and all I could find small enough were trhough-the-wall hotel/motel units or mini-split ductless systems.  

Response:

>Hi jon, >Sounds like a 45k BTU furnace is indeed overkill for your attic space. >Depending on your climate, and level of building insulation, you probably >require between 2 and 3 kw of electric baseboard.  This would provide you >with necessary back up heat on those very cold days.  You will need to >consider your existing electrical service… can it handle the additional >circuits and demand? >I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have >problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate >an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional >plumbing.

Thanks for the info, Duane (and everyone else as well!)  We have a new subpanel in the attic so the circuits aren’t a problem.   I forgot to mention one important point: arguments over the temperature! My wife likes it cold and she usually wins (although I refuse to have to wear gloves in the house!) so I don’t see us spending megabucks on the electric bill for the heating. The hot water heater is really more a luxury item than a necessity. But as the kids get older and take longer showers, it may prove to be the latter! jon — zw

Response:

Well, he already has all the duct work installed, and everything needed to support the A/C.   Installing electric bb would require some major re-wiring, and in each room.  One would need to run 240v for the bb units themselves, and possibly 240v to another wall to support a thermostat.  Again, for each room. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So, why not just go electric bb initially?

Response:

> Aren’t hot water heaters sized, more or less, to the number of > bathrooms?  Double the number of baths, and I would think that > one might need additional hot water heater capacity.  Adding > another hot water heater, right near the additional bath, might > be a reasonable way to add that capacity.

Well, yes… however, not knowing what is initially installed, the capacity and recovery rate, can we say for sure? Given that there is no increase in family size, I questioned their current and anticipated future use, and the OP explained his rationale.  Reasonable. BTW, the OP will also see an increase in energy consumption and utility bills with the added tank; people tend to use up extra capacity plus the additional standby losses of another tank.  Then of course you need room for it, the gas line, venting, etc. Personally, if possible, I’d just increase the size of the original tank or the burner capacity, and add a new hot water line. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have > problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate > an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional > plumbing.

Response:

You already have the gas line, consider installing a Rinnai heater. I have no connection to them but I install them and they are virtually trouble free. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We’ll be moving up to our attic soon (gotta give the girls their own bedroom for > our sanity!) and we have to make a final decision for heating. Ceiling ductwork > is already in place for the a/c.  The contractor bought a 45K BTU gas furnace > for the heat (gas pipe has already been run for a dedicated hot water heater for > the bathroom) but hasn’t installed it yet. > I talked to one of the area’s top a/c guys (not using him for this job, but he > has a reputation for high quality work) and he said to go with electric > baseboard heat.  Said that the unit is overkill and that "they don’t make a > furnace small enough for just an attic". Said that it would be hard to regulate > the temp properly and the furnace would have to cycle on and off too frequently > to attempt to maintain a constant temperature. Also that as a result of this > constant cycling the furnace wouldn’t last longer than 5 years or so.  He > claimed that since the attic is well-insulated, and we’ll get some heat from > lower floors, that baseboard is our best bet (probably need two strips for the > main room and one for the bathroom).  House is in North-central New Jersey. > About 400 square feet, 9 foot ceiling average. > Any comments much appreciated! > jon

Response:

Well, he already has all the duct work installed, and everything needed to support the A/C.   Installing electric bb would require some major re-wiring, and in each room.  One would need to run 240v for the bb units themselves, and possibly 240v to another wall to support a thermostat.  Again, for each room. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So, why not just go electric bb initially?

Response:

Aren’t hot water heaters sized, more or less, to the number of bathrooms?  Double the number of baths, and I would think that one might need additional hot water heater capacity.  Adding another hot water heater, right near the additional bath, might be a reasonable way to add that capacity. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have > problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate > an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional > plumbing.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [snip] > ceiling mounted registers are a terrible way to heat a space. > If the system is not oversized, registers are sized/positioned right > and the correct diffusers are used, ceiling registers work just fine > for both heating and cooling. > If ceiling registers don’t work well, one of the above is usually to > blame. > — > Sam > Undo every "not" in my email address > Outlook users: Don’t add me to your address book

Hehehe, Sure sounds "iffy" to me… Duane

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> This is exactly what ductless split systems are made for. they >> also make heat pump models and are very efficient. >Yep.  And even in NJ, the majority of the heating season you can heat >with a HP for 2-3 times less than the cost of electric resistance >baseboard heat.  The rest of the time, a HP will switch to resistance >backup heat that will cost the same as baseboard heat. >Since the OP is getting A/C, they might as well get a minisplit HP that >will heat and cool and installation cost would be no more than for A/C >only. > While I had already posted before I saw HvacTech2’s post and I agree with

him, when I was shopping for a > mini-split ductless, I had trouble finding ones with integrated backup

resistence heat.  GE, Friedrich > don’t have it, as best I could discover.  I think Sanyo has it, but it is

by far the most expensive.  If > money is a concern, then baseboard resistance heat can be a better backup

with a lower-cost hp.  FYI. Yes, the baseboard can still operate as back-up for a hp if the OP should choose to go this route. From an operational standpoint, the concept of heat rising to the top floor and "good insulation" were noted.  These are valid concepts, and since the OP introduced them I saw no need to discount them.  So, why spend the extra money, unless the difference in cost between the two systems is small.  From an operational and comfort point of view, ceiling mounted registers are a terrible way to heat a space. And anyone reading this please bear in mind that I also advocate the use of heat pumps… however, in this case I am convinced otherwise. Duane — Duane M. Tilden PEng(BC) Crown Mechanical Consulting

Response:

>Hi jon, >Sounds like a 45k BTU furnace is indeed overkill for your attic space. >Depending on your climate, and level of building insulation, you probably >require between 2 and 3 kw of electric baseboard.  This would provide you >with necessary back up heat on those very cold days.  You will need to >consider your existing electrical service… can it handle the additional >circuits and demand? >I would also question the need for another hot water heater.  Do you have >problems with enough hot water already?  If not then unless you anticipate >an increase in usage, this may not be required, just some additional >plumbing.

Thanks for the info, Duane (and everyone else as well!)  We have a new subpanel in the attic so the circuits aren’t a problem.   I forgot to mention one important point: arguments over the temperature! My wife likes it cold and she usually wins (although I refuse to have to wear gloves in the house!) so I don’t see us spending megabucks on the electric bill for the heating. The hot water heater is really more a luxury item than a necessity. But as the kids get older and take longer showers, it may prove to be the latter! jon — zw

Response:

>> This is exactly what ductless split systems are made for. they > also make heat pump models and are very efficient. >Yep.  And even in NJ, the majority of the heating season you can heat >with a HP for 2-3 times less than the cost of electric resistance >baseboard heat.  The rest of the time, a HP will switch to resistance >backup heat that will cost the same as baseboard heat. >Since the OP is getting A/C, they might as well get a minisplit HP that >will heat and cool and installation cost would be no more than for A/C >only.

While I had already posted before I saw HvacTech2’s post and I agree with him, when I was shopping for a mini-split ductless, I had trouble finding ones with integrated backup resistence heat.  GE, Friedrich don’t have it, as best I could discover.  I think Sanyo has it, but it is by far the most expensive.  If money is a concern, then baseboard resistance heat can be a better backup with a lower-cost hp.  FYI.

Response:

Hi Walt, hope you are having a nice day On 29-Apr-02 At About 02:29:52, Walt wrote to All  W> If it is already set up for A/C, installing a heat pump instead comes  W> to mind.  A heat pump can heat as well as cool, and I am sure you  W> could get one of the right size for the given living space. This is exactly what ductless split systems are made for. they also make heat pump models and are very efficient.  -=> HvacTech2 <=- .. Here’s John Bobbitt with a few words about Crazy Glue.                     ___ TagDude 0.92

Question:

Most the people in my area mostly run the systems in emergency heat mode because the H/P heat is to cold. They prefer the warm air from the gas furnace. Up until about a year or so, alot of home builder installed heat pumps with gas furnaces until the electric company quit giving the kick back to do so.  They work fine with a good Duel Fuel Kit and a Out Door Thermastat.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would > a gas auxiliary make more sense?

Response:

>It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat >strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. >….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would make more sense…

Well, the key is that the we are talking about the "aux"/"emergency" heat.  Areas for which heat pumps are appropriate are areas that shouldn’t be using the aux heat that much.  A (say) 20% operating advantage in something that is only used for 5% of the heat is only a 1% advantage in service.  Electric backup is the least costly to install.  Yes indeed gas backup (if gas was available) would be cheaper to run but more expensive to install.  Basically, you’d have most of the extra cost of a gas furnace but for very little use. So pick your poison. -v.

Response:

>I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) >are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would >a gas auxiliary make more sense?

Most places where gas is available for residential heating the majority of installations are GAS and where the local utility promoted heat pumps (with electric backup) in this area many of the home owners who took that choice converted back to fossil fuels after one or two heating seasons where heating costs went out of control because of winters that were only slightly colder than average, but required considerable use of the emergency heat for extended periods!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would > a gas auxiliary make more sense?

One reason "all electric heat pumps" are so prevalent is due to their physical layout. The indoor coil of an all electric heat pump is upstream (air flow) of the AUX heat and can therefore run simultaneously with the AUX heat. In this way the energy savings benefits of the heat pump can still be achieved even when back up heat is necessary. On the other hand, when adding on a heat pump to an existing fossil fuel furnace the coil can generally only be placed in the furnace plenum (on top of the typical furnace). This places it downstream (air flow) of the heat exchanger which means any time AUX heat is required the heat pump must shut off. It can not reject it’s mild heat into an extremely hot air stream. Although air to air heat pumps can offer 3 times the heat per unit of energy input that is only during optimum conditions. The colder it gets outside the less is the capacity of the heat pump. So when you need it the most,  less output is available hence the need for supplementary or backup or auxiliary heat. The annual energy savings from a heat pump is the result of the additive total of all those times when the heat pump was supplying heat at anything greater than a 1:1 COP. (Co-efficient Of Performance) When it is cold enough that a mere 1 to 1 ratio is being achieved one school of thought is that it is foolish to run the expensive heat pump system and the back up system should take over by itself. Your geographical location will determine how much of your heating load can be satisfied by a heat pump system. Codes in some areas used to require that the back up heating system be capable of handling the entire heating load by itself. Now some state that the heat pump + back up may match the load. That would necessitate running the heat pump at all temperatures. At least a heat pump will never operate at less than a 1:1 COP. I once asked someone (a gas fitter I believe) about placing an indoor heat pump coil upstream of fossil fuel furnace and believe the responce was that codes wouldn’t allow it. There were safety concerns about moisture from the cooling mode spilling over and rotting out the fossil fuel heat exchanger. Although dehumidification from the cooling mode dries the air, apparently a condensate pan containing water upstream of the heat exchanger isn’t acceptable by code. Whether this part is true I don’t know. Steve www.refrigerationbasics.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to > operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency > would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get > furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and > would > a gas auxiliary make more sense? > One reason "all electric heat pumps" are so prevalent is due to their > physical layout. The indoor coil of an all electric heat pump is upstream > (air flow) of the AUX heat and can therefore run simultaneously with the AUX > heat. In this way the energy savings benefits of the heat pump can still be > achieved even when back up heat is necessary. On the other hand, when adding > on a heat pump to an existing fossil fuel furnace the coil can generally > only be placed in the furnace plenum (on top of the typical furnace). This > places it downstream (air flow) of the heat exchanger which means any time > AUX heat is required the heat pump must shut off. It can not reject it’s > mild heat into an extremely hot air stream. > Although air to air heat pumps can offer 3 times the heat per unit of energy > input that is only during optimum conditions. The colder it gets outside the > less is the capacity of the heat pump. So when you need it the most,  less > output is available hence the need for supplementary or backup or auxiliary > heat. The annual energy savings from a heat pump is the result of the > additive total of all those times when the heat pump was supplying heat at > anything greater than a 1:1 COP. (Co-efficient Of Performance) When it is > cold enough that a mere 1 to 1 ratio is being achieved one school of thought > is that it is foolish to run the expensive heat pump system and the back up > system should take over by itself. Your geographical location will determine > how much of your heating load can be satisfied by a heat pump system. Codes > in some areas used to require that the back up heating system be capable of > handling the entire heating load by itself. Now some state that the heat > pump + back up may match the load. That would necessitate running the heat > pump at all temperatures. At least a heat pump will never operate at less > than a 1:1 COP. > I once asked someone (a gas fitter I believe) about placing an indoor heat > pump coil upstream of fossil fuel furnace and believe the responce was that > codes wouldn’t allow it. There were safety concerns about moisture from the > cooling mode spilling over and rotting out the fossil fuel heat exchanger. > Although dehumidification from the cooling mode dries the air, apparently a > condensate pan containing water upstream of the heat exchanger isn’t > acceptable by code. Whether this part is true I don’t know. > Steve > www.refrigerationbasics.com

Hi Steve, Basically I agree with most of what is covered by you in this post. I have witnessed installations where the domestic gas fired hot water heater is used to provide hot water to a heating coil which provides forced air heat in buildings.  These are known as "combo" units.  [Please check with your local codes before installing.]  While I do not recall the manufacturer of the unit, please refer to: http://www.uniongas.com/Residential/ChannelInfo/HomeAppliances/furnac… oHeatSystems.asp or you can purchase (for $3) a brochure of manufacturers here: http://www.dulley.com/docs/f934.htm I would envision that you could use the hot water tank connected to a heating coil to provide the necessary back up heat for those really cold days. — Duane M. Tilden Crown Mechanical Consulting

Response:

Depends on where you live.  What you’re talking about is a "piggy Back" system.  Whenever you buy a new one buy the highest SEER (effeciancy rating) you can find.  It’ll pay you back with lower utility bills and more comfort. Trip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat >pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: >It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat >strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. >Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would >make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would >also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more >frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. >When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace >get you through the cold part of winter. >I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) >are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would >a gas auxiliary make more sense?

Response:

Just to add to your post, if a heatpump in installed on a fossil fuel furnace whenever the heatpump enters it’s defrost mode the furnace can’t start inorder to reheat this air like a electric furnace can and therefore a cold draft will be felt by the home owner. In some situations the house temperature may even drop considerably. Todd

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to > operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency > would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get > furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and > would > a gas auxiliary make more sense? > One reason "all electric heat pumps" are so prevalent is due to their > physical layout. The indoor coil of an all electric heat pump is upstream > (air flow) of the AUX heat and can therefore run simultaneously with the AUX > heat. In this way the energy savings benefits of the heat pump can still be > achieved even when back up heat is necessary. On the other hand, when adding > on a heat pump to an existing fossil fuel furnace the coil can generally > only be placed in the furnace plenum (on top of the typical furnace). This > places it downstream (air flow) of the heat exchanger which means any time > AUX heat is required the heat pump must shut off. It can not reject it’s > mild heat into an extremely hot air stream. > Although air to air heat pumps can offer 3 times the heat per unit of energy > input that is only during optimum conditions. The colder it gets outside the > less is the capacity of the heat pump. So when you need it the most,  less > output is available hence the need for supplementary or backup or auxiliary > heat. The annual energy savings from a heat pump is the result of the > additive total of all those times when the heat pump was supplying heat at > anything greater than a 1:1 COP. (Co-efficient Of Performance) When it is > cold enough that a mere 1 to 1 ratio is being achieved one school of thought > is that it is foolish to run the expensive heat pump system and the back up > system should take over by itself. Your geographical location will determine > how much of your heating load can be satisfied by a heat pump system. Codes > in some areas used to require that the back up heating system be capable of > handling the entire heating load by itself. Now some state that the heat > pump + back up may match the load. That would necessitate running the heat > pump at all temperatures. At least a heat pump will never operate at less > than a 1:1 COP. > I once asked someone (a gas fitter I believe) about placing an indoor heat > pump coil upstream of fossil fuel furnace and believe the responce was that > codes wouldn’t allow it. There were safety concerns about moisture from the > cooling mode spilling over and rotting out the fossil fuel heat exchanger. > Although dehumidification from the cooling mode dries the air, apparently a > condensate pan containing water upstream of the heat exchanger isn’t > acceptable by code. Whether this part is true I don’t know. > Steve > www.refrigerationbasics.com

Response:

| Just to add to your post, if a heatpump in installed on a fossil fuel | furnace whenever the heatpump enters it’s defrost mode the furnace can’t | start inorder to reheat this air like a electric furnace can [...] My natural gas furnace runs during the heat pump’s defrost cycle.  Ignoring arguments about overheating the evaporator, the one glitch is that sometimes the thermostat can actually be satisfied before the defrost cycle is complete since the furnace puts out a lot more heat than the heat pump can absorb.  The Trane heat pump stops trying to defrost if you stop calling for heat, and if this happens a few times in sequence it can make the defrost control think that it is failing to defrost the coil (which it is in some cases).  I suppose a few more relays could take care of this…                                 Dan Lanciani                                 .*com

Response:

> I once asked someone (a gas fitter I believe) about placing an indoor heat > pump coil upstream of fossil fuel furnace and believe the responce was that > codes wouldn’t allow it. There were safety concerns about moisture from the > cooling mode spilling over and rotting out the fossil fuel heat exchanger. > Although dehumidification from the cooling mode dries the air, apparently a > condensate pan containing water upstream of the heat exchanger isn’t > acceptable by code. Whether this part is true I don’t know.

Bingo, cool air leaving the coil will cause condensation on the heat exchangers and will rot them out. Possibly because the air leaving the coil is saturated like fog sometimes but also the heat exchanger will be cool while the compressor is running. After the compressor stops the heat exchanger will still be cold. Air touching the heat exchanger during off cycle or at beginning of cooling cycle will sweat. All gas fired equipment will have blow through cooling coils. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Steve > www.refrigerationbasics.com

Response:

My ac contractor helped me create a similar combo system using an oil burner. The house came with big radiators and a 3 yr old Weil-McLein boiler, and we wanted ac. We pulled out the radiators and pipes and the contractor installed ducts and a GE heat pump. Instead of electric defrost (cheap and instant response) he sized and ordered a downstream finned copper coil for the boiler. Above 32 deg, the boiler was off, and no defrost heat was used as the residual heat in the copper coil sufficiently bridged the defrost cycle. I had two outdoor thermostats. One set at around <32 deg turned on the boiler to maintain hot water. The defroster circuit turned on the circulator pump when needed. The second outdoor thermostat was set around <20 deg. It shut down the heat pump totally and the house ran on boiler only. Worked great. Rick (So. NJ)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would > a gas auxiliary make more sense?

Response:

I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace get you through the cold part of winter. I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would a gas auxiliary make more sense?

Response:

Previously, Steve Probst wrote in alt.hvac, misc.consumers.house: [...] > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would > a gas auxiliary make more sense?

I monitor the kWh consumption of each of the circuits feeding our heat pump, and our electric strip heat consumed less than $20 of energy this winter. If the heat pump is sized correctly in the first place, I don’t think it’s a big issue. You could do it, but it would cost more to install, repair, and maintain and I doubt the payback would be there in most cases.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’ve been reading with interest, the numerous postings that compare heat > pump to fossil fuel furnaces.  One question that I don’t fully understand: > It seems that heatpumps are almost always installed with an electric heat > strip aux/emergency.  The heat strip backups are very expensive to operate. > Here’s my question….it seems that a gas furnace auxiliary/emergency would > make more sense in areas where propane or gas was available.  This would > also give you the luxury to manually turn on the emergency heat more > frequently (especially in January), when you want that toasty air flow. > When it gets really cold, just turn off the heatpump and let the get furnace > get you through the cold part of winter. > I have not seen this done very often.  Heat strips (expensive to operate) > are almost always installed as the emergency system.  Why is this and would > a gas auxiliary make more sense?

usually , when a heat pump, and electric strip heat are used it is because fuel gas is not available, or it is not economically or realisitically feasible to vent a furnace , depends on where you live. do you have deep pockets? you could go with both , most people just decide on one or the other i dont think the mfrs have ever considered this one rich

Response:

Question:

> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond

better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are they installing used equipment?

Response:

No kidding….depending on the brand, and tonnage, thats below cost….and that scream used…stolen…or no profit…and no profit means, when it breaks…no service..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ruminated: > >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

Response:

>> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

No kidding. This is "United Comfort Air", a company supposely with national coverage. I will find out exactly what they are installing and the warranty, etc… Raymond

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air). > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist? > Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Raymond, In new construction, we are required by code to introduce fresh air into the house via a pipe from the exterior of the house to the return air duct.     Typically this is done with a 4" diameter pipe.  The only real alternative to this is an expensive piece of equipment that not only brings fresh air in, but also heats it before introducing it into the house.  Investigate both options.

Response:

>> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s > wrong with it?

It is 40 years old. :) It is filthy dirty, and rust everywhere including the heat exchange. I don’t know whether it has been properly cared for. The filter looks like it hasn’t been replaced for a long time. > (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* > buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more > than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had > CO detectors in my home).

Good idea. I have a CO detector in my bedroom. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces > retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only > use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck > their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and > drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your > living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on > in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then > somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because > you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in > the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), > because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat.

The return air vent is in the living room, an reasonably sized opening on the floor. The pipe goes under the craw space back to the garage. But since the furnace is in the garage, the air it blows back to the room will contain air from the garage, as the furnace doesn’t seem to be sealed that well… I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both a furnace and an AC system… Raymond

Response:

– Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1  It’s Irish Math > I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc?

    Assuming you really need to replace your old furnance; the important choice is not the brand of furnance, but what professional is going to install it for you.  Most brands are good or at least make good models.  It is far more important to have a good tech checking and sizing your system and you use the brand he knows, not something he does not know. > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

    Yea, about. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

    Yes, they are generally seprate systems, ask your pro what he has to offer and his recommendation.  How usefull they are depends on your local climate and to some extent your home and life style. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

    I don’t know.  Good question.  I am sure it could be set up that way. BTW all the systems I have heard of filter the outside air coming in. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Response:

> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old.

Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s wrong with it? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

Indeterminant. I was using a furnace purchased in 1977 in 1997, and it worked fine with no problems, so a gas furnace can certainly last 20 years if properly cared for. Basically, unless the heat exchanger has cracked (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had CO detectors in my home). > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality.

The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad.

If it smells bad, then probably either a) they are smokers, or b) their furnace is not operating properly. Or c) they eat a lot of beans (grin). A properly operating furnace adds no odors to the air. > Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air?

Yes. It’s called an "air exchanger". Generally it’s a two-part vent where outgoing air heats the incoming air to reduce the amount of heat lost from the venting. This is sometimes used on some very tightly sealed homes where there otherwise would not be enough air exchanges during the course of a day. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

Yes and no. I’d suggest going to the Google search engine and type in "air exchanger", you will see a number of these gadgets, operating in a number of different ways. —        GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg     Join The Conspiracy: http://evidence-eliminator-sucks.com

Response:

I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have several questions. 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, etc? 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating inside air or use outside air). 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, going through the filter… do such thing exist? Thanks a lot. Raymond

Response:

> 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

The furnace takes air in from the point(s) where the end of the return duct is located. You should be able to trace it back. If the furnace is taking air in from the garage, the heating system has been badly designed. In most houses the air house is replaced with outside air within hours; air does not have to blow in, air molecules diffuse in (and out) through small gaps. It is not necessary for the furnace to take in air from outside except in unusually well-sealed houses. If your house smells bad, find the source of the smell. Clean the house. If it’s mildew, reduce the humidity and/or apply chlorine bleach. Stop smoking. Rip out your moldy carpets. Have everyone shower daily and brush their teeth. But I doubt if lack of fresh air is the culprit; to circulate enough fresh (cold) air in winter to reduce a bad smell, you would be spending thousands of dollars in heating costs.

Response:

>> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

No kidding. This is "United Comfort Air", a company supposely with national coverage. I will find out exactly what they are installing and the warranty, etc… Raymond

Response:

> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond

better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are they installing used equipment?

Response:

No kidding….depending on the brand, and tonnage, thats below cost….and that scream used…stolen…or no profit…and no profit means, when it breaks…no service..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ruminated: > >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

Response:

– Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1  It’s Irish Math > I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc?

    Assuming you really need to replace your old furnance; the important choice is not the brand of furnance, but what professional is going to install it for you.  Most brands are good or at least make good models.  It is far more important to have a good tech checking and sizing your system and you use the brand he knows, not something he does not know. > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

    Yea, about. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

    Yes, they are generally seprate systems, ask your pro what he has to offer and his recommendation.  How usefull they are depends on your local climate and to some extent your home and life style. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

    I don’t know.  Good question.  I am sure it could be set up that way. BTW all the systems I have heard of filter the outside air coming in. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Response:

>> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s > wrong with it?

It is 40 years old. :) It is filthy dirty, and rust everywhere including the heat exchange. I don’t know whether it has been properly cared for. The filter looks like it hasn’t been replaced for a long time. > (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* > buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more > than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had > CO detectors in my home).

Good idea. I have a CO detector in my bedroom. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces > retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only > use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck > their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and > drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your > living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on > in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then > somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because > you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in > the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), > because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat.

The return air vent is in the living room, an reasonably sized opening on the floor. The pipe goes under the craw space back to the garage. But since the furnace is in the garage, the air it blows back to the room will contain air from the garage, as the furnace doesn’t seem to be sealed that well… I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both a furnace and an AC system… Raymond

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air). > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist? > Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Raymond, In new construction, we are required by code to introduce fresh air into the house via a pipe from the exterior of the house to the return air duct.     Typically this is done with a 4" diameter pipe.  The only real alternative to this is an expensive piece of equipment that not only brings fresh air in, but also heats it before introducing it into the house.  Investigate both options.

Response:

> 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

The furnace takes air in from the point(s) where the end of the return duct is located. You should be able to trace it back. If the furnace is taking air in from the garage, the heating system has been badly designed. In most houses the air house is replaced with outside air within hours; air does not have to blow in, air molecules diffuse in (and out) through small gaps. It is not necessary for the furnace to take in air from outside except in unusually well-sealed houses. If your house smells bad, find the source of the smell. Clean the house. If it’s mildew, reduce the humidity and/or apply chlorine bleach. Stop smoking. Rip out your moldy carpets. Have everyone shower daily and brush their teeth. But I doubt if lack of fresh air is the culprit; to circulate enough fresh (cold) air in winter to reduce a bad smell, you would be spending thousands of dollars in heating costs.

Response:

> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old.

Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s wrong with it? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

Indeterminant. I was using a furnace purchased in 1977 in 1997, and it worked fine with no problems, so a gas furnace can certainly last 20 years if properly cared for. Basically, unless the heat exchanger has cracked (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had CO detectors in my home). > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality.

The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad.

If it smells bad, then probably either a) they are smokers, or b) their furnace is not operating properly. Or c) they eat a lot of beans (grin). A properly operating furnace adds no odors to the air. > Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air?

Yes. It’s called an "air exchanger". Generally it’s a two-part vent where outgoing air heats the incoming air to reduce the amount of heat lost from the venting. This is sometimes used on some very tightly sealed homes where there otherwise would not be enough air exchanges during the course of a day. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

Yes and no. I’d suggest going to the Google search engine and type in "air exchanger", you will see a number of these gadgets, operating in a number of different ways. —        GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg     Join The Conspiracy: http://evidence-eliminator-sucks.com

Response:

I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have several questions. 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, etc? 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating inside air or use outside air). 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, going through the filter… do such thing exist? Thanks a lot. Raymond

Response:

> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions.

[...] > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

[...] I can’t speak to the furnace questions you ask, but you should look into Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs). These will bring fresh air into your house, but will exchange heat energy so you aren’t paying to heat the outside air in winter and cool it in the summer. We have one, and we love it. The unit we have is called a Recupaerator from http://www.stirling-tech.com, and it is built like a tank, but there are other manufacturers as well.

Response:

>> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

No kidding. This is "United Comfort Air", a company supposely with national coverage. I will find out exactly what they are installing and the warranty, etc… Raymond

Response:

> >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond

better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are they installing used equipment?

Response:

No kidding….depending on the brand, and tonnage, thats below cost….and that scream used…stolen…or no profit…and no profit means, when it breaks…no service..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ruminated: > >> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both > a furnace and an AC system… > Raymond > better find out why it is so cheap.  What corners are they cutting?  Are > they installing used equipment?

Response:

– Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1  It’s Irish Math > I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc?

    Assuming you really need to replace your old furnance; the important choice is not the brand of furnance, but what professional is going to install it for you.  Most brands are good or at least make good models.  It is far more important to have a good tech checking and sizing your system and you use the brand he knows, not something he does not know. > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

    Yea, about. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

    Yes, they are generally seprate systems, ask your pro what he has to offer and his recommendation.  How usefull they are depends on your local climate and to some extent your home and life style. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

    I don’t know.  Good question.  I am sure it could be set up that way. BTW all the systems I have heard of filter the outside air coming in. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Response:

>> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. > Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s > wrong with it?

It is 40 years old. :) It is filthy dirty, and rust everywhere including the heat exchange. I don’t know whether it has been properly cared for. The filter looks like it hasn’t been replaced for a long time. > (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* > buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more > than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had > CO detectors in my home).

Good idea. I have a CO detector in my bedroom. > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces > retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only > use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck > their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and > drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your > living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on > in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then > somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because > you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in > the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), > because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat.

The return air vent is in the living room, an reasonably sized opening on the floor. The pipe goes under the craw space back to the garage. But since the furnace is in the garage, the air it blows back to the room will contain air from the garage, as the furnace doesn’t seem to be sealed that well… I will go talk to a few installer. One place quoted me $2200 for both a furnace and an AC system… Raymond

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions. > 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, > etc? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air). > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist? > Thanks a lot. > Raymond

Raymond, In new construction, we are required by code to introduce fresh air into the house via a pipe from the exterior of the house to the return air duct.     Typically this is done with a 4" diameter pipe.  The only real alternative to this is an expensive piece of equipment that not only brings fresh air in, but also heats it before introducing it into the house.  Investigate both options.

Response:

> 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

The furnace takes air in from the point(s) where the end of the return duct is located. You should be able to trace it back. If the furnace is taking air in from the garage, the heating system has been badly designed. In most houses the air house is replaced with outside air within hours; air does not have to blow in, air molecules diffuse in (and out) through small gaps. It is not necessary for the furnace to take in air from outside except in unusually well-sealed houses. If your house smells bad, find the source of the smell. Clean the house. If it’s mildew, reduce the humidity and/or apply chlorine bleach. Stop smoking. Rip out your moldy carpets. Have everyone shower daily and brush their teeth. But I doubt if lack of fresh air is the culprit; to circulate enough fresh (cold) air in winter to reduce a bad smell, you would be spending thousands of dollars in heating costs.

Response:

> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old.

Why do you say that? Is it broke? Does it burn too much gas? What’s wrong with it? > 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?)

Indeterminant. I was using a furnace purchased in 1977 in 1997, and it worked fine with no problems, so a gas furnace can certainly last 20 years if properly cared for. Basically, unless the heat exchanger has cracked (allowing carbon monoxide into the house), it’s good to go. I *WOULD* buy carbon monoxide detectors for any home using a gas furnace more than 10 years old — they can literally be a life saver (yes, I had CO detectors in my home). > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality.

The furnace return air vent is in the garage too? Sometimes furnaces retrofitted to older homes are located in the garage, but generally only use the garage air for combustion (burning). They actually suck their indoor air through a return air vent punched through the siding and drywall into the house proper. Is there a big grill in, say, your living room, that it sucks air through? When you have the lights on in the garage, can you see light through that grill? If so, then somebody has removed the ducting that’s supposed to be there, because you’re not supposed to see that — you do not want to heat the air in the garage (other than the minimal heat radiated by the furnace), because garages generally are uninsulated, and you’re wasting heat. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad.

If it smells bad, then probably either a) they are smokers, or b) their furnace is not operating properly. Or c) they eat a lot of beans (grin). A properly operating furnace adds no odors to the air. > Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air?

Yes. It’s called an "air exchanger". Generally it’s a two-part vent where outgoing air heats the incoming air to reduce the amount of heat lost from the venting. This is sometimes used on some very tightly sealed homes where there otherwise would not be enough air exchanges during the course of a day. > 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode > and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, > going through the filter… do such thing exist?

Yes and no. I’d suggest going to the Google search engine and type in "air exchanger", you will see a number of these gadgets, operating in a number of different ways. —        GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg     Join The Conspiracy: http://evidence-eliminator-sucks.com

Response:

I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have several questions. 1) What’s a good brand? What should I look for in terms of feature, etc? 2) How long does a furnace last? (10 years? 20 years?) 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating inside air or use outside air). 4) in such a system, I could if I choose to simply use the ‘fan’ mode and it will gradually exchange the inside air with the outside air, going through the filter… do such thing exist? Thanks a lot. Raymond

Response:

> I need to replace my existing gas furnace which is too old. I have > several questions.

[...] > 3) Are there any systems that slowly exchange air with outside air? > Most seem to circulate the same air over and over again. The furnace > is in the garage, and the garage is not known for its air quality. > I’ve been to places where the window is never opened and the furnace > is always on. But the place smells really bad. Are there any systems > that actually exchanges with outside air? (I guess this is kind of > like the AC in your car, you can typically choose between circulating > inside air or use outside air).

[...] I can’t speak to the furnace questions you ask, but you should look into Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERVs). These will bring fresh air into your house, but will exchange heat energy so you aren’t paying to heat the outside air in winter and cool it in the summer. We have one, and we love it. The unit we have is called a Recupaerator from http://www.stirling-tech.com, and it is built like a tank, but there are other manufacturers as well.

Response: