Question:

I moved into a house several months ago. The idiot homeowners before me had hardwood floors installed over an uneven concrete floor. Now, in certain spots, the wood flexes like there is a small cavity underneath. Unfortunatly, these spots are in the middle of the floor so I can’t just rip up the outside planks to fix it. Anyone have any suggestions? I don’t know if applying epoxy will hold it (for long) and besides, the planks are very tight against one another. Thanks in advance…

Response:

> I moved into a house several months ago. The idiot homeowners before > me had hardwood floors installed over an uneven concrete floor. Now, > in certain spots, the wood flexes like there is a small cavity > underneath. Unfortunatly, these spots are in the middle of the floor > so I can’t just rip up the outside planks to fix it. > Anyone have any suggestions? I don’t know if applying epoxy will hold > it (for long) and besides, the planks are very tight against one > another.

No <good> suggestions- personally I would just live with it until your budget allowed ripping it out and doing it right. You could drill trough the floor and inject leveling compound, but I would be paranoid about that causing humps and blowouts elsewhere. Or if you prefer a lumpy floor to a bouncy one, drill some countersunk holes and shoot screws into epoxy-filled holes in the concrete. Either of these options would requiring filling the holes with plugs, available in any flooring shop. (‘pegged’ oak used to be popular.) aem sends….

Response:

> Anyone have any suggestions? I don’t know if applying epoxy will hold > it (for long) and besides, the planks are very tight against one > another.

There is no pad underneath the floor?  On concrete slab, I would think the pad would take care of most of problems unless the slab has a serious settling problem.  If the planks are put together only with tongue and grooves without glue or nails, you could unfloor it by removing the edge boards, put a new pad and then refloor.

Response:

Question:

ruminated:

>> Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished >> the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it? 2000sq >> ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install >> of trim and light fixtures.

they have people working around the clock it seems, the cabinets are installed and look great! Punch

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> wouldn’t it be advisable for your attorney to deal with the builder in > a situation like this?  I would not even think about getting involved > with a home purchase without having an attorney perched on my > shoulder! > While I agree, it is unfortunate, but true, that in a sellers market > like the SF Bay area the builder will say "This is the contract, take it or > leave it, there’s fifteen people lined up behind you who’ll take this > contract." And, unfortunately, he’s right. > The builders of pre-fab "spec" homes in California rarely will talk to > a lawyer. They’ll simply say "Go find somebody else’s house to buy." > Makes me glad I don’t live in California. > — > BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net > —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– > http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Attitudes like the one you described are quite the norm in California.  I’m very happy that I no longer live there.  I now live in the midwest and get to experience real weather, and real people.  I love it! Brigitte

Response:

> wouldn’t it be advisable for your attorney to deal with the builder in > a situation like this?  I would not even think about getting involved > with a home purchase without having an attorney perched on my > shoulder!

While I agree, it is unfortunate, but true, that in a sellers market like the SF Bay area the builder will say "This is the contract, take it or leave it, there’s fifteen people lined up behind you who’ll take this contract." And, unfortunately, he’s right. The builders of pre-fab "spec" homes in California rarely will talk to a lawyer. They’ll simply say "Go find somebody else’s house to buy." Makes me glad I don’t live in California. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->… > He has a point there. If they are painting when you do your final > walk-through, immediately turn around and say "Sorry, we need to > schedule this at a later date when the house is actually completed." > They will try to say "Oh, we’ll fix all that stuff after closing", but > never believe anything like that. >Unfortunately with some builders, such as Western Pacific Housing, >once you show up for walk-thru you have to close escrow the next >business day or you are in breach of contract.  You can refuse to >close escrow and then they will threaten you with per day fines, which >they did to one person I know whose house was a complete mess at >walk-thru — probably the absolute biggest mess I’ve seen to date in >terms of how poorly everything was done at walk-thru.  They forced him >to close escrow on a complete mess of a home.  They did that to a >Cisco engineer based in Silicon Valley. >If they want to take a home from drywall to escrow closing in 2 weeks, >you can sure bet that if anything gets in the way of them meeting that >deadline that things are not going to get done right and it is going >to be up to the home buyer to find them. >My strongest recommendation is to find a good home inspector and have >them immediately inspect your home after escrow closing to do a sanity >check that the home was at least built to building code and to see if >he/she can catch anything the builder rushed pass. >Also, if anyone out there is purchasing a home from Western Pacific >Housing, or has recently purchased a home from that builder, please do >yourself a favor and quickly find a reputable home inspector to review >your home ASAP while you can still get the builder to fix things that >should have been done before closing.  Western Pacific Housing can >100% know that things are wrong with your home, but simply will not >tell you about them and will not fix them until you ask for them to be >fixed and ride their touches to get the work done right.  Heck, I have >repeatedly told Western Pacific Housing Customer Service about items >that were/are wrong on new homes and they simply would not tell the >new home buyer about them, and they damn well knew about them prior to >walk-thru. >Good Luck, >Frank.

wouldn’t it be advisable for your attorney to deal with the builder in a situation like this?  I would not even think about getting involved with a home purchase without having an attorney perched on my shoulder!

Response:

Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install of trim and light fixtures. Punch

Response:

> Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished > the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq > ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install > of trim and light fixtures. > Punch

doesn’t seem likely. it was 7 weeks from installing kitchen cabinets to done in my 2700 sqft house.

Response:

>Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished >the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq >ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install >of trim and light fixtures.

Barely possible, but real unlikely.   What about built-in shelves (can’t paint until those are up)?  What about cabinets (typically would rather paint, then put in the cabinets?   Any hardwood flooring (better to do that after painting, but do it, and the tile, before putting down carpet)? I’d say at least a month out, more if the subs can’t show precisely when needed. If the builder isn’t well organized, this could stretch to a couple of months.

Response:

> Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished > the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq > ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install > of trim and light fixtures. > Punch

Let’s put it this way, you don’t want them to get it done that fast. Plan on 6 weeks.

Response:

>Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks,

Well, maybe you’d better replan.  I think you’ll have a better job and a better chance to evaluate it, if you give another 2 weeks to a month. -v.

Response:

>Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, > Well, maybe you’d better replan.  I think you’ll have a better job and > a better chance to evaluate it, if you give another 2 weeks to a > month.

just talked to site supervisor he says no problem getting in!  they are doing the trim work today (6 guys on crew), and the tile guy is coming tonight to do "scratch" Punch

Response:

> Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished > the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq > ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install > of trim and light fixtures. > Punch

They can get it to look like a home in 2 weeks, no problem.  I see this done all the time at Western Pacific Housing’s developments.  Now the real question is what will they deliver to you in 2 weeks?  And how much time and money are you going to have to invest over the next several years to get your home delivered as it should have been delivered at the close of escrow. Western Pacific Housing sometimes literally has their crews painting walls and installing shutters during walk-thru.  The first time they turn on faucets is sometimes at walk-thru. Who is the builder? Are they owned in anyway by D.R. Horton? If they deliver your home and you love it within 2 months, that will rock!!! Wishing you the best. Frank.

Response:

>> Well, we are due to move into our new house in 2 weeks, they just finished > the drywall, do you think there will be enough time to finish it?  2000sq > ft, 2 story, lot’s of tile work, big kitchen, carpet, painting, and install > of trim and light fixtures. > Punch > They can get it to look like a home in 2 weeks, no problem.  I see > this done all the time at Western Pacific Housing’s developments.  Now > the real question is what will they deliver to you in 2 weeks?  And > how much time and money are you going to have to invest over the next > several years to get your home delivered as it should have been > delivered at the close of escrow.

He has a point there. If they are painting when you do your final walk-through, immediately turn around and say "Sorry, we need to schedule this at a later date when the house is actually completed." They will try to say "Oh, we’ll fix all that stuff after closing", but never believe anything like that. New home salesmen don’t get their commission until the house closes, and there’s a lot of shameless ones out there. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

… > He has a point there. If they are painting when you do your final > walk-through, immediately turn around and say "Sorry, we need to > schedule this at a later date when the house is actually completed." > They will try to say "Oh, we’ll fix all that stuff after closing", but > never believe anything like that.

Unfortunately with some builders, such as Western Pacific Housing, once you show up for walk-thru you have to close escrow the next business day or you are in breach of contract.  You can refuse to close escrow and then they will threaten you with per day fines, which they did to one person I know whose house was a complete mess at walk-thru — probably the absolute biggest mess I’ve seen to date in terms of how poorly everything was done at walk-thru.  They forced him to close escrow on a complete mess of a home.  They did that to a Cisco engineer based in Silicon Valley. If they want to take a home from drywall to escrow closing in 2 weeks, you can sure bet that if anything gets in the way of them meeting that deadline that things are not going to get done right and it is going to be up to the home buyer to find them. My strongest recommendation is to find a good home inspector and have them immediately inspect your home after escrow closing to do a sanity check that the home was at least built to building code and to see if he/she can catch anything the builder rushed pass. Also, if anyone out there is purchasing a home from Western Pacific Housing, or has recently purchased a home from that builder, please do yourself a favor and quickly find a reputable home inspector to review your home ASAP while you can still get the builder to fix things that should have been done before closing.  Western Pacific Housing can 100% know that things are wrong with your home, but simply will not tell you about them and will not fix them until you ask for them to be fixed and ride their touches to get the work done right.  Heck, I have repeatedly told Western Pacific Housing Customer Service about items that were/are wrong on new homes and they simply would not tell the new home buyer about them, and they damn well knew about them prior to walk-thru. Good Luck, Frank.

Response:

Question:

I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install pre-finished wood. The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for installation, staining and three coats od protectant. The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a shorter installation time? Thanks! Eric

Response:

> Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  

Typically pre-finished floors are finished with a much harder finish than what is possible to site-install. Practically speaking, though, I don’t think it’s harder enough to be worth the extra expense. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I don’t know why such a big difference in the installed price. When I was looking for wood flooring at HD, Lowes etc I didn’t find that much difference in price between the prefinished and unfinished wood when considering the cost of sander rental and finish. I was only looking at materials though and not labor.  I ended up installing about 400sf of Bruce prefinished oak.  I did spend a LOT of time sorting and fitting boards.  If it were unfinished wood, I probably would not have been so selective and used wood filler to fix defects and gaps etc. Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. > Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone > install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install > pre-finished wood. > The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for > installation, staining and three coats od protectant. > The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. > Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would > be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total > material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a > shorter installation time? > Thanks! > Eric

Response:

>>> Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.   >Typically pre-finished floors are finished with a much harder finish than >what is possible to site-install. Practically speaking, though, I don’t >think it’s harder enough to be worth the extra expense. > Combined with the other advantages of a non manufactured/pre finished > floor, there’s no contest. Unless you are installing the floor > yourself and want to save time, or have height issues, there is no > reason to use prefinished.

Uhm, you seem to be confusing "manufactured" and "prefinished". There is prefinished plank flooring. For example, Bruce sells such flooring. To quote the Bruce advertising literature about the finishing on their flooring:     The Dura-Luster Plus urethane finish contains aluminum oxide     crystals which are the key ingredient in making the finish     incredibly tough. Four layers of this ultraviolet-cured urethane     create a shield of protection for the beautiful hardwood flooring     underneath. Routine vacuuming and an occasional cleaning with     Bruce floor care products is all the maintenance required to keep     your floor beautiful. Site-applied finishes definitely are NOT four-layer aluminum-oxide-enhanced ultraviolet-cured urethane. On the other hand, is a tougher finish worth $2.50 per square foot difference in price? Through iFloor, the prefinished Bruce hardwood plank mentioned above sells for $5.99 per square foot. I can get unfinished hardwood planks *installed and finished* for $5 per square foot. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, say, a good quality carpet? kickaha

Response:

>Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, >say, a good quality carpet?

That all depends on the wood and the carpet, doesn’t it? Are you comparing a rosewood or mahogany floor to an all-wool carpet? Both of those options will be big, big $$$. Dimitri

Response:

Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies… kickaha

Response:

> Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? > I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the > "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. > Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies…

Carpet will be much cheaper to install than the hardwood, since installing carpet basically consists of laying down tack strips (if there aren’t any already), stretching the carpet across the tack strips, then cutting off any excess. It’s a little more difficult than that, but not much. A good quality carpet, installed, will set you back maybe $3 per square foot in my area, and will last about ten years under typical conditions (less in high traffic areas, which is why you might want to consider tile or some other alternative for high traffic areas). Hardwood costs about twice as much as carpet. On the other hand, it lasts about five times longer — a good medium-quality solid plank oak hardwood floor can last at least fifty years if properly maintained. On the other hand, it is more succeptible to damage from furniture legs and etc. (the damage is typically easily repaired, but still …), while carpet is pretty hard to damage — the worst you can do to carpet is drop cherry coolaide on it and stain it, but typically the only thing that’ll do in carpet is plain old wear and tear, after a while it will start getting "tired", start laying down on the job, start looking a bit sparse, etc… you’ll notice after a while that you seem to have a trench down the middle of your hallway where the carpet has decided to go to sleep, for example, and the carpet cleaning man won’t be able to fluff it back up any longer.. A good quality pad extends the life of the carpet considerably, but it’s still an exceptional carpet that’ll make it to 20 years under typical conditions. My choice: if I had kids, I’d want carpet. They can drag their toys across the floor all they want without scratching it. On the other hand, I have allergies, so carpet is *not* a nice thing for me. Right now I’m trying to figure out what to do about all the carpet in my house — replace with tile, or replace with hardwood? This is complicated by the fact that I have slab-on-grade, which makes a good base for tile, but not such a great base for hardwood. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

scribbled this interesting note: >Hardwood costs about twice as much as carpet. On the other hand, it >lasts about five times longer — a good medium-quality solid plank oak >hardwood floor can last at least fifty years if properly >maintained.

Longer. Much longer. The hardwood floors in our house are just over 40 years old and are in great shape. They will last far longer than 50 years. >…still an exceptional carpet that’ll make it to 20 years under typical >conditions.

My father built the house my parents still live in. It was finished right at 30 years ago. The carpet looks tired in the high traffic areas, but the house still has the original carpets in it. I have to wonder if you can buy carpet today that could last as long??? — John Willis

Response:

50 years? i lived in an area old old historic homes that henry for had built at the turn of the century, i must have sanded 25 or 30 of these homes and they still had 4 or 5 sandings left on them. There are floors still in existance that are 5 and 600 yrs old

Response:

> 50 years? i lived in an area old old historic homes that henry for had built at > the turn of the century, i must have sanded 25 or 30 of these homes and they > still had 4 or 5 sandings left on them. There are floors still in existance > that are 5 and 600 yrs old

Note that wood floors installed a hundred years ago are not the same as wood floors installed today. Not only were those hundred-year-old wood floors typically made with thicker planks, but those hundred-year-old wood floors were also made with hard dense old-growth wood. Today’s wood floors are made with tree-farmed hardwoods that are nowhere near as dense. I have a picture somewhere of one of my great-grandparents standing beside a huge log loaded onto a horse-drawn wagon. This log is thicker in diameter than he is tall. That kind of timber is no longer available. Modern wooden plank flooring is made from trees that’s maybe 30 years old, vs. the hundreds of years old that the old growth trees had to become harder and tougher. This especially becomes clear when you go down to South Louisiana and look at cypress barns that are a hundred years old and still in great condition — despite never being painted and never being treated for termites. There is no modern lumber that would stand up to South Louisiana conditions like that, except maybe some old-growth redwoods from the few remaining stands on the West Coast. Which sort of proves my point. In any event — I think I did make my point, which is that real hardwood planks, even the site-finished ones, are a very long-lasting flooring material, while carpet is not. While I’m not sure how long the modern planks will last, I think it’s safe to say that for typical oak flooring, they’ll last at least fifty years — or roughly five times longer than a carpet of the same basic quality. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install pre-finished wood. The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for installation, staining and three coats od protectant. The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a shorter installation time? Thanks! Eric

Response:

> Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  

Typically pre-finished floors are finished with a much harder finish than what is possible to site-install. Practically speaking, though, I don’t think it’s harder enough to be worth the extra expense. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I don’t know why such a big difference in the installed price. When I was looking for wood flooring at HD, Lowes etc I didn’t find that much difference in price between the prefinished and unfinished wood when considering the cost of sander rental and finish. I was only looking at materials though and not labor.  I ended up installing about 400sf of Bruce prefinished oak.  I did spend a LOT of time sorting and fitting boards.  If it were unfinished wood, I probably would not have been so selective and used wood filler to fix defects and gaps etc. Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. > Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone > install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install > pre-finished wood. > The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for > installation, staining and three coats od protectant. > The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. > Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would > be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total > material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a > shorter installation time? > Thanks! > Eric

Response:

<< Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a shorter installation time?  >> Judging from my own experience on home repairs, that’s it.  If you order a complete job from a big or franchised company, you’ll pay through the nose for the "convenience" of having a ready-made team work on your house.  If you hire independent craftsmen and convince them to work together, you’ll pay less. zemedelec

Response:

> Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? > I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the > "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. > Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies…

Carpet will be much cheaper to install than the hardwood, since installing carpet basically consists of laying down tack strips (if there aren’t any already), stretching the carpet across the tack strips, then cutting off any excess. It’s a little more difficult than that, but not much. A good quality carpet, installed, will set you back maybe $3 per square foot in my area, and will last about ten years under typical conditions (less in high traffic areas, which is why you might want to consider tile or some other alternative for high traffic areas). Hardwood costs about twice as much as carpet. On the other hand, it lasts about five times longer — a good medium-quality solid plank oak hardwood floor can last at least fifty years if properly maintained. On the other hand, it is more succeptible to damage from furniture legs and etc. (the damage is typically easily repaired, but still …), while carpet is pretty hard to damage — the worst you can do to carpet is drop cherry coolaide on it and stain it, but typically the only thing that’ll do in carpet is plain old wear and tear, after a while it will start getting "tired", start laying down on the job, start looking a bit sparse, etc… you’ll notice after a while that you seem to have a trench down the middle of your hallway where the carpet has decided to go to sleep, for example, and the carpet cleaning man won’t be able to fluff it back up any longer.. A good quality pad extends the life of the carpet considerably, but it’s still an exceptional carpet that’ll make it to 20 years under typical conditions. My choice: if I had kids, I’d want carpet. They can drag their toys across the floor all they want without scratching it. On the other hand, I have allergies, so carpet is *not* a nice thing for me. Right now I’m trying to figure out what to do about all the carpet in my house — replace with tile, or replace with hardwood? This is complicated by the fact that I have slab-on-grade, which makes a good base for tile, but not such a great base for hardwood. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

if flooring is say 7.00 a sq ft, thats 63 bucks a yard, not being into carpet at all i would say a good carpet may start around 30 bucks a yard, but have you ever seen 600 year old carpet before?

Response:

>Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, >say, a good quality carpet?

That all depends on the wood and the carpet, doesn’t it? Are you comparing a rosewood or mahogany floor to an all-wool carpet? Both of those options will be big, big $$$. Dimitri

Response:

Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies… kickaha

Response:

Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, say, a good quality carpet? kickaha

Response:

You must live in one under developed area to see prices that low on unfinished oak. sounds like your making the first huge mistake as a homeowner can make. Sounds like you using a carpet store or some other franchise store. First of all i would never have a prefin floor in my home, biggest reason is the beveled edges (dirt catchers). This is where the carpet stores make all there money they buy wholesale prefin at maybe 4.00 a ft and charge 4.00 to put it in????? call a local flooring contractor and tell him you have your own wood and what will he charge to put it in. as far as the 5.00 a ft for unfinished go’s, i’m sure you’ll be getting number 1 or 2 common wood with a cheap oil based poly on it. I was a contractor in michigan for 24 years and the going rate was 8.50 a ft for unfinished select grade oak with 3 coats of water based finish called street shoe on it. If you some how happen scratch or gouge  your floor and it needs to be repaired your contractor can fix his work, no one in town will be able to fix the prefin without ripping the areas out and replacing them. By the way i have moved to tennessee and the going price for the same i mentioned above is 6.50 a ft. carpet stores hire from the bottom of the barell for the best price they can for doing unfinished. Sorry for all  the rambling, but prefin and carpet stores get under my skin.

Response:

50 years? i lived in an area old old historic homes that henry for had built at the turn of the century, i must have sanded 25 or 30 of these homes and they still had 4 or 5 sandings left on them. There are floors still in existance that are 5 and 600 yrs old

Response:

> 50 years? i lived in an area old old historic homes that henry for had built at > the turn of the century, i must have sanded 25 or 30 of these homes and they > still had 4 or 5 sandings left on them. There are floors still in existance > that are 5 and 600 yrs old

Note that wood floors installed a hundred years ago are not the same as wood floors installed today. Not only were those hundred-year-old wood floors typically made with thicker planks, but those hundred-year-old wood floors were also made with hard dense old-growth wood. Today’s wood floors are made with tree-farmed hardwoods that are nowhere near as dense. I have a picture somewhere of one of my great-grandparents standing beside a huge log loaded onto a horse-drawn wagon. This log is thicker in diameter than he is tall. That kind of timber is no longer available. Modern wooden plank flooring is made from trees that’s maybe 30 years old, vs. the hundreds of years old that the old growth trees had to become harder and tougher. This especially becomes clear when you go down to South Louisiana and look at cypress barns that are a hundred years old and still in great condition — despite never being painted and never being treated for termites. There is no modern lumber that would stand up to South Louisiana conditions like that, except maybe some old-growth redwoods from the few remaining stands on the West Coast. Which sort of proves my point. In any event — I think I did make my point, which is that real hardwood planks, even the site-finished ones, are a very long-lasting flooring material, while carpet is not. While I’m not sure how long the modern planks will last, I think it’s safe to say that for typical oak flooring, they’ll last at least fifty years — or roughly five times longer than a carpet of the same basic quality. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install pre-finished wood. The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for installation, staining and three coats od protectant. The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a shorter installation time? Thanks! Eric

Response:

> Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  

Typically pre-finished floors are finished with a much harder finish than what is possible to site-install. Practically speaking, though, I don’t think it’s harder enough to be worth the extra expense. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

I don’t know why such a big difference in the installed price. When I was looking for wood flooring at HD, Lowes etc I didn’t find that much difference in price between the prefinished and unfinished wood when considering the cost of sander rental and finish. I was only looking at materials though and not labor.  I ended up installing about 400sf of Bruce prefinished oak.  I did spend a LOT of time sorting and fitting boards.  If it were unfinished wood, I probably would not have been so selective and used wood filler to fix defects and gaps etc. Kevin

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am looking into having hardwood floors installed in my house. > Based upon my calls to local flooring shops, I can either have someone > install unfinished wood and then finish it when it’s down, or install > pre-finished wood. > The unfinished route come out to about 5 bucks a square foot, for > installation, staining and three coats od protectant. > The pre-finished route averages about 8 bucks. > Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would > be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total > material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a > shorter installation time? > Thanks! > Eric

Response:

<< Why is the pre-finished route more expensive.  It seems like it would be less labor intensive and by pre-finishing in bulk, the total material cost should be less.  Are you paying for the convenience of a shorter installation time?  >> Judging from my own experience on home repairs, that’s it.  If you order a complete job from a big or franchised company, you’ll pay through the nose for the "convenience" of having a ready-made team work on your house.  If you hire independent craftsmen and convince them to work together, you’ll pay less. zemedelec

Response:

> Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? > I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the > "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. > Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies…

Carpet will be much cheaper to install than the hardwood, since installing carpet basically consists of laying down tack strips (if there aren’t any already), stretching the carpet across the tack strips, then cutting off any excess. It’s a little more difficult than that, but not much. A good quality carpet, installed, will set you back maybe $3 per square foot in my area, and will last about ten years under typical conditions (less in high traffic areas, which is why you might want to consider tile or some other alternative for high traffic areas). Hardwood costs about twice as much as carpet. On the other hand, it lasts about five times longer — a good medium-quality solid plank oak hardwood floor can last at least fifty years if properly maintained. On the other hand, it is more succeptible to damage from furniture legs and etc. (the damage is typically easily repaired, but still …), while carpet is pretty hard to damage — the worst you can do to carpet is drop cherry coolaide on it and stain it, but typically the only thing that’ll do in carpet is plain old wear and tear, after a while it will start getting "tired", start laying down on the job, start looking a bit sparse, etc… you’ll notice after a while that you seem to have a trench down the middle of your hallway where the carpet has decided to go to sleep, for example, and the carpet cleaning man won’t be able to fluff it back up any longer.. A good quality pad extends the life of the carpet considerably, but it’s still an exceptional carpet that’ll make it to 20 years under typical conditions. My choice: if I had kids, I’d want carpet. They can drag their toys across the floor all they want without scratching it. On the other hand, I have allergies, so carpet is *not* a nice thing for me. Right now I’m trying to figure out what to do about all the carpet in my house — replace with tile, or replace with hardwood? This is complicated by the fact that I have slab-on-grade, which makes a good base for tile, but not such a great base for hardwood. — BadTux News’n'Views: http://news.badtux.net —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

if flooring is say 7.00 a sq ft, thats 63 bucks a yard, not being into carpet at all i would say a good carpet may start around 30 bucks a yard, but have you ever seen 600 year old carpet before?

Response:

>Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, >say, a good quality carpet?

That all depends on the wood and the carpet, doesn’t it? Are you comparing a rosewood or mahogany floor to an all-wool carpet? Both of those options will be big, big $$$. Dimitri

Response:

Mahogany and wool are both rather high end, eh? I was thinking along the lines of wood flooring and carpet for the "common man"….good quality, middle of the road stuff. Probably too much an apples and oranges question, my apologies… kickaha

Response:

Not to change the subject, but how does hardwood compare in price to, say, a good quality carpet? kickaha

Response:

You must live in one under developed area to see prices that low on unfinished oak. sounds like your making the first huge mistake as a homeowner can make. Sounds like you using a carpet store or some other franchise store. First of all i would never have a prefin floor in my home, biggest reason is the beveled edges (dirt catchers). This is where the carpet stores make all there money they buy wholesale prefin at maybe 4.00 a ft and charge 4.00 to put it in????? call a local flooring contractor and tell him you have your own wood and what will he charge to put it in. as far as the 5.00 a ft for unfinished go’s, i’m sure you’ll be getting number 1 or 2 common wood with a cheap oil based poly on it. I was a contractor in michigan for 24 years and the going rate was 8.50 a ft for unfinished select grade oak with 3 coats of water based finish called street shoe on it. If you some how happen scratch or gouge  your floor and it needs to be repaired your contractor can fix his work, no one in town will be able to fix the prefin without ripping the areas out and replacing them. By the way i have moved to tennessee and the going price for the same i mentioned above is 6.50 a ft. carpet stores hire from the bottom of the barell for the best price they can for doing unfinished. Sorry for all  the rambling, but prefin and carpet stores get under my skin.

Response:

Question:

Hi All, This is a very strange thing that happened in my home.  The house is a two story home.  The house was built in 1938 and had no other updates but a remodeled bathroom 4 years ago and just recently a remodeled kitchen. The problem is in living room on the second story.  I just noticed a very high spot in the floor along one of the joists.  Seems like this one joist is about 5/8 inch taller than the other two next to it. If I place a 4 foot level on the high spot, I can see a big gap on both sides of the level.  If I go to the far left or right of the problem joist, both sides look pretty level.   To the far left about 9 feet from the problem joist is a bay window, I thought that maybe that bay window and that foundation might of sunken to cause the dip but it only looks like that single joist is all of the sudden much higher. I’m usually really senstive to highs and lows spots when walking on a floor but would of noticed this bow a long time ago. There have been no extreme water damage such as a flood or water from a fire.  Above the bay window, there was a water leak a few years back, but was fixed last year. Could a leak near the bay window caused just one specific joist to bow all of a sudden? Sorry for the long post. God bless and have a good day.

Response:

Hi Kelly: I can think of two possibilities. First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the floor. If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. Regards, John.

Response:

Hi John, Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of the floor. The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the floor is too high upstairs. Thanks. Have a great day and God bless. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Kelly: > I can think of two possibilities. > First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, > but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from > excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor > joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular > to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the > direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If > the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent > humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. > Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the > bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, > the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that > wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be > failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the > floor. > If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a > close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished > ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing > has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. > Regards, > John.

Response:

Kelly, when you say:  > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along  > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the  > bay window itself. I think you misunderstood him – bay windows frequently have cantilevered joist framing under them.  This means the joists run perpendicular to the window and in to the room – usually if the bay window is 2 feet deep the joists run 6 feet or more into the room where they then intersect with the joists running the other way (if they do run parallel to the window in the rest of the house).  What he’s saying is that the window’s weight may be levering the joists up in the middle of the room – not in the bay.  Is the window sagging on the outside?  Take a hard look at it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi John, > Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of > flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we > moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane > wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run > the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many > more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was > getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would > make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows > and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco > bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. > The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I > did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of > the floor. > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the > bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put > the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the > floor is too high upstairs. > Thanks. > Have a great day and God bless. >Hi Kelly: >I can think of two possibilities. >First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, >but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from >excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor >joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular >to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the >direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If >the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent >humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. >Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the >bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, >the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that >wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be >failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the >floor. >If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a >close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished >ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing >has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. >Regards, >John.

Response:

Hi All, This is a very strange thing that happened in my home.  The house is a two story home.  The house was built in 1938 and had no other updates but a remodeled bathroom 4 years ago and just recently a remodeled kitchen. The problem is in living room on the second story.  I just noticed a very high spot in the floor along one of the joists.  Seems like this one joist is about 5/8 inch taller than the other two next to it. If I place a 4 foot level on the high spot, I can see a big gap on both sides of the level.  If I go to the far left or right of the problem joist, both sides look pretty level.   To the far left about 9 feet from the problem joist is a bay window, I thought that maybe that bay window and that foundation might of sunken to cause the dip but it only looks like that single joist is all of the sudden much higher. I’m usually really senstive to highs and lows spots when walking on a floor but would of noticed this bow a long time ago. There have been no extreme water damage such as a flood or water from a fire.  Above the bay window, there was a water leak a few years back, but was fixed last year. Could a leak near the bay window caused just one specific joist to bow all of a sudden? Sorry for the long post. God bless and have a good day.

Response:

Hi Kelly: I can think of two possibilities. First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the floor. If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. Regards, John.

Response:

Hi John, Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of the floor. The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the floor is too high upstairs. Thanks. Have a great day and God bless. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Kelly: > I can think of two possibilities. > First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, > but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from > excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor > joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular > to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the > direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If > the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent > humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. > Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the > bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, > the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that > wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be > failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the > floor. > If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a > close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished > ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing > has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. > Regards, > John.

Response:

Kelly, when you say:  > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along  > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the  > bay window itself. I think you misunderstood him – bay windows frequently have cantilevered joist framing under them.  This means the joists run perpendicular to the window and in to the room – usually if the bay window is 2 feet deep the joists run 6 feet or more into the room where they then intersect with the joists running the other way (if they do run parallel to the window in the rest of the house).  What he’s saying is that the window’s weight may be levering the joists up in the middle of the room – not in the bay.  Is the window sagging on the outside?  Take a hard look at it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi John, > Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of > flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we > moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane > wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run > the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many > more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was > getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would > make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows > and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco > bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. > The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I > did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of > the floor. > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the > bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put > the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the > floor is too high upstairs. > Thanks. > Have a great day and God bless. >Hi Kelly: >I can think of two possibilities. >First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, >but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from >excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor >joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular >to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the >direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If >the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent >humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. >Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the >bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, >the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that >wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be >failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the >floor. >If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a >close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished >ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing >has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. >Regards, >John.

Response:

Hi All, This is a very strange thing that happened in my home.  The house is a two story home.  The house was built in 1938 and had no other updates but a remodeled bathroom 4 years ago and just recently a remodeled kitchen. The problem is in living room on the second story.  I just noticed a very high spot in the floor along one of the joists.  Seems like this one joist is about 5/8 inch taller than the other two next to it. If I place a 4 foot level on the high spot, I can see a big gap on both sides of the level.  If I go to the far left or right of the problem joist, both sides look pretty level.   To the far left about 9 feet from the problem joist is a bay window, I thought that maybe that bay window and that foundation might of sunken to cause the dip but it only looks like that single joist is all of the sudden much higher. I’m usually really senstive to highs and lows spots when walking on a floor but would of noticed this bow a long time ago. There have been no extreme water damage such as a flood or water from a fire.  Above the bay window, there was a water leak a few years back, but was fixed last year. Could a leak near the bay window caused just one specific joist to bow all of a sudden? Sorry for the long post. God bless and have a good day.

Response:

Hi Kelly: I can think of two possibilities. First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the floor. If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. Regards, John.

Response:

Hi John, Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of the floor. The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the floor is too high upstairs. Thanks. Have a great day and God bless. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Kelly: > I can think of two possibilities. > First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, > but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from > excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor > joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular > to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the > direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If > the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent > humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. > Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the > bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, > the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that > wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be > failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the > floor. > If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a > close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished > ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing > has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. > Regards, > John.

Response:

Kelly, when you say:  > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along  > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the  > bay window itself. I think you misunderstood him – bay windows frequently have cantilevered joist framing under them.  This means the joists run perpendicular to the window and in to the room – usually if the bay window is 2 feet deep the joists run 6 feet or more into the room where they then intersect with the joists running the other way (if they do run parallel to the window in the rest of the house).  What he’s saying is that the window’s weight may be levering the joists up in the middle of the room – not in the bay.  Is the window sagging on the outside?  Take a hard look at it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi John, > Thanks for the reply.  I’m sorry, I forgot to say what kind of > flooring.  It is hardwood but its parque (sp?) flooring.  Since we > moved into the home (build in 1938) we have replaced the single pane > wood windows to double pane windows.  Also since having kids we run > the gas central heat a lot more and noticed that there are so many > more squeaks in the floor.  Actually, the first two years, it was > getting on my nerves and now, its to the point that every step would > make the floor squeak.  My neighbors don’t have double pane windows > and their floors don’t squeak whatsoever. I live in the San Francisco > bay area and never really thought I might have a humidity problem. > The section of the floor that is higher seems to be pretty solid.  I > did a few jumps on it and it seemed as solid sounding as the rest of > the floor. > The joist definately goes the width of the room and has the hump along > the whole joist.  The bad section of the floor is not actually in the > bay window itself.  I have a finished garage downstairs. I haven’t put > the level or straight edge to see if the ceiling concaves where the > floor is too high upstairs. > Thanks. > Have a great day and God bless. >Hi Kelly: >I can think of two possibilities. >First, are you certain it is the floor joist itself?  You didn’t say, >but if the floor is covered in hardwood, it may have buckled from >excessive moisture, causing the floor to pull away from the floor >joist below.  Hardwood flooring is typically installed perpendicular >to floor joists, so it should be easy to tell by looking at the >direction of the hump compared to the direction of the flooring.  If >the flooring has buckled, this could result from a failure to vent >humidity, or a roof leak, or several other causes. >Second, you said the hump is inside a bay window.  Is the floor of the >bay window cantilevered beyond the outside wall of the house?  If so, >the floor framing beneath the window will be perpendicular to that >wall and run to a header built into the floor.  The header may be >failing due to the weight of the window and wall trying to lever the >floor. >If the floor is over a crawl space or basement, I suggest you take a >close look at the framing for signs of damage.  If there is a finished >ceiling below, it should have a corresponding high spot if the framing >has moved.  Otherwise, I would suspect the flooring is buckled. >Regards, >John.

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Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Here is my sitiation: > I will be building a home just east of Scottsdale AZ (Fountain Hills). >  I own the lot free and clear. (paid $87k, probably now worth $100k). > Additionally, I have $100k of my own cash to put into the project. > I an anticipate construction costs to be $250k, requiring a loan of > $150k. My credit is perfect, however I will be the general contractor > for the house (with advice from my father-in-law who used to be in the > business). > My question for the group is, will I have trouble getting a loan from > the bank based on these numbers?  I will have recently started a new > job down there, and was previously self-employed.  Should I expect a > lot of "documentation" hassles? > When I got the original loan for the property, they wanted business > financial statements and all sorts of other garbage.  I told the loan > agent that if tax returns weren’t enough, I didn’t need his crap, and > would take my business elsewhere.  They then shut up and gave me the > loan. >   Dan

Geez, I’d love to be in your shoes.  There are many good quality, LARGE three-bedroom modular homes available for less than $100K (minus land prep. charges, about another $30K).  All styles are available from Cape to Ranch to Colonial to Garrison, you name it.  One floor or two, split entry, whatever. I’m looking to build one myself, a nice, large three bedroom ranch with a full basement.  Problem is, land around here starts at just under $200K. That’s JUST the land.  If I already owned the land, I’d be all set!!!  And you’re in better financial shape than I am, with most of the cash available to build already.  (that is, if you wanted to build a modular home) Out of curiosity, what are you building that costs a quarter mill? :)  -Dave

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> Out of curiosity, what are you building that costs a quarter mill? >:)  -Dave

Hmm, $250,000. For a 2500 square foot home, that would be $100 per square foot. It’s quite easy to get up to $100 per square foot if you are using good materials. For example, hardwood flooring is around $6-$7 a square foot installed, while porcelain tile is around $5-6 a square foot installed.  Using 5/8" drywall rather than 1/2" drywall adds $.  Using greenboard in the bathrooms rather than drywall adds $$. Custom showers made with cement backboard adds $. Installing good custom cabinetry rather than fiberboard Home Cheapo crap adds $$. Using exterior grade plywood for your roof decking rather than chipboard adds $$. Use real ductwork rather than flexiduct crap (that collapses with time and chokes off your A/C unit) adds $$. A post-tensioned foundation rather than simple slab-on-grade adds $$. Etc. etc. etc. It is very easy to get up to $100 a square foot if you insist upon using quality materials. — There is no distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.                                               – Mark Twain —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

>Geez, I’d love to be in your shoes.  There are many good quality, LARGE >three-bedroom modular homes available for less than $100K (minus land prep. >charges, about another $30K).

Mobile homes come in several styles nowadays also.  So do rentals. The OP doesn’t seem to want a rental, a mobile, or a modular.  I’d expect that most every person (in North America) has heard that modulars exist and are available in various styles.  If you don’t buy one it is by choice, not that you don’t know.  If someone thought that the various names for several very conventional styles of boxes with minor differences, covers the entire range of possible home designs, then they’d have to be quite ignorant.   BTW, the contractor that built most of our house (I was GC of record) also has a modular division, and they said right out that there are some designs that are just not practical to modularize and would cost as much or more if somebody wanted to.  They even carry a line of fancier houses that they said they could build for the same price stick, but since people perceive modulars to be economical, they sell the modulars. >Out of curiosity, what are you building that costs a quarter mill?

Probably, a nice medium sized house.  You sound like that is a lot? It isn’t.  But then, some people think a $20,000 new car (about average now) is way too much.  Yet some very middle class average people would think that was cheap and that $35,000 was reasonable, because they want a larger SUV.  Whatever. -v.

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Not really into the modular home idea…. I’m building a 2800 sq. ft. house w/ pool.  My father in law is going to do the excavation, and we plan on doing whatever we can (i.e. flooring, painting, trim, etc.) ourselves.  Also, we will be our own GC. I’m shooting for $250k… (hopefully)  Dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Out of curiosity, what are you building that costs a quarter mill? > :)  -Dave

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Here is my sitiation: >I will be building a home just east of Scottsdale AZ (Fountain Hills). > I own the lot free and clear. (paid $87k, probably now worth $100k). >Additionally, I have $100k of my own cash to put into the project. >I an anticipate construction costs to be $250k, requiring a loan of >$150k. My credit is perfect, however I will be the general contractor >for the house (with advice from my father-in-law who used to be in the >business). >My question for the group is, will I have trouble getting a loan from >the bank based on these numbers?  I will have recently started a new >job down there, and was previously self-employed.  Should I expect a >lot of "documentation" hassles? >When I got the original loan for the property, they wanted business >financial statements and all sorts of other garbage.  I told the loan >agent that if tax returns weren’t enough, I didn’t need his crap, and >would take my business elsewhere.  They then shut up and gave me the >loan.

As a self-employed (1099) individual I did get the documentation hassles on a standard 30 year mortgage.  Like you I had spotless credit as did my spouse who had a "regular" W2/W4 job.  I had absolutely zero debt as did my spouse and though we together had 40% cash to put down (and even more if we needed to do so), I was forced not just once, but three times to obtain various "reports" from a CPA:  net-worth, cash-flow, copies of income tax statements for three years, and a second, "updated" copy of a net-worth statement right before closing. If we so desired my spouse’s and my combined incomes could have even allowed us to pay off the entire note in five years if we had desired to unwisely throw most of our funds into the house as opposed to other investments.  My spouse was treated like royalty, but I was made to feel like I was going through an IRS audit — or at least what I imagine what one of those is like since I have never had one. A couple of years ago we set off to build a custom home with us carrying the construction loan.  At that time I had since become a "regular" W2/W4 employee no longer doing 1099 work.  The approval of our construction loan was granted, by comparison to our previous pains, in *minutes* and without any documentation crap whatsoever.

Response:

Here is my sitiation: I will be building a home just east of Scottsdale AZ (Fountain Hills).  I own the lot free and clear. (paid $87k, probably now worth $100k). Additionally, I have $100k of my own cash to put into the project. I an anticipate construction costs to be $250k, requiring a loan of $150k. My credit is perfect, however I will be the general contractor for the house (with advice from my father-in-law who used to be in the business). My question for the group is, will I have trouble getting a loan from the bank based on these numbers?  I will have recently started a new job down there, and was previously self-employed.  Should I expect a lot of "documentation" hassles? When I got the original loan for the property, they wanted business financial statements and all sorts of other garbage.  I told the loan agent that if tax returns weren’t enough, I didn’t need his crap, and would take my business elsewhere.  They then shut up and gave me the loan.   Dan

Response:

Question:

I recently removed a wall that divided two small rooms with hardwood floors in the house. Unfortunately, the hardwood floor in each room stopped at the wall and there is now just a 4" gap of sub-floor where the bottom plate of the wall used to be.  To make things worse the hardwood runs perpendicular to where the wall used to be and is offset from room to room across that gap by about 1/4". Is there any way I can patch this without having to remove half the floor?   Thanks!

Response:

> I recently removed a wall that divided two small rooms with hardwood floors > in the house. Unfortunately, the hardwood floor in each room stopped at the > wall and there is now just a 4" gap of sub-floor where the bottom plate of > the wall used to be.  To make things worse the hardwood runs perpendicular > to where the wall used to be and is offset from room to room across that > gap by about 1/4". Is there any way I can patch this without having to > remove half the floor?   Thanks!

How about a nice area rug?

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> I recently removed a wall that divided two small rooms with hardwood floors > in the house. Unfortunately, the hardwood floor in each room stopped at the > wall and there is now just a 4" gap of sub-floor where the bottom plate of > the wall used to be.  To make things worse the hardwood runs perpendicular > to where the wall used to be and is offset from room to room across that > gap by about 1/4". Is there any way I can patch this without having to > remove half the floor?   Thanks!

If you want it to look like it was one single floor always then you will need to remove half the floor. Otherwise you could simply lay hardwood flooring in the gap, sand it, finish it and so forth and you’re done. It won’t look like anything but a patch but it will do the job. If you want to get a little fancier you can use wood cutouts and carvings to inlay a pattern in this area. Perhaps dragons lined up nose to tail. This may distract people from the idea that it’s simply the gap left when a wall was removed. Anthony

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> I recently removed a wall that divided two small rooms with hardwood > floors in the house. Unfortunately, the hardwood floor in each room > stopped at the wall and there is now just a 4" gap of sub-floor where > the bottom plate of the wall used to be.  To make things worse the > hardwood runs perpendicular to where the wall used to be and is offset > from room to room across that gap by about 1/4". Is there any way I can > patch this without having to remove half the floor?   Thanks!

You can buy unfinished hardwood flooring and patch the gap with new/more hardwood.  Additionally you can put the new flooring down with a shim so that the 1/4" offset is matched, but it’s always going to look like the area was patched unless you pull up part of the existing flooring to better integrate the patched area.

Response:

>… Additionally you can put the new flooring down with a shim so >that the 1/4" offset is matched…

I beleive he meant the strips were different by 1/4" horizontally. -v.

Response:

>I recently removed a wall that divided two small rooms with hardwood floors >in the house. Unfortunately, the hardwood floor in each room stopped at the >wall ….

You didn’t *really* think they ran the finish flooring all the way across the house *before* they put the walls up, did you???? -v.

Response:

>>… Additionally you can put the new flooring down with a shim so that >the 1/4" offset is matched… > I beleive he meant the strips were different by 1/4" horizontally.

Oh, well then that sucks…

Response:

Question:

>If you want to DIY, please do a dry run before you nail down the >hardwood boards. That is what the pros spend most of their time.

See your local rental center as well.   They have hardwood floor nailers that will make your life a LOT simpler. — OS/X:  Because making Unix user friendly was easier than debugging Windows          Registered Linux user 220048 on http://counter.li.org

Response:

Well Guys: I bought the floor today from Home Depot, and will be installing it next week after the humidity acclimation and getting back from HersheyPark! They want 30 bucks a day to rent the pneumatic nailer. 420 sq ft of floor cost 1700 bucks. I’ll report back after it is done. Art

Response:

Is that $2.50 a sqft for the cost of installation only, and not the cost of the hardwood itself? Because there is no way you are getting hardwood installed for $2.50 a sqft for materials and labor, or even just material (most prefinished HW floors run retail at about $5-7 a sqft)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi to all: > My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am > wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, > transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down > hardwood flooring? > I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it > should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 > per square foot. > I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, > paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… > Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? > Thanks for all the help, > Art

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Art, I just brought a house and we just finished part of the hardwood flooring installation. I get the following price quote for installation (for Southern CA): approx $2.00 for floating floor, approx $2.80 to $3.20 for engineering floor. approx $4.00 to $4.50 for hardwood floor. All the price quote including installation material (nails, glue, moulding etc.) and removal for old carpet. Removal for old tile is separate charge. Our floor space is about 350 sq ft. It took the installers half day to remove the old moulding, old tile and old carpet. It took the installer almost 1 1/2 to 2 days to cut-up the boards and setup a dry-run of the new floor. The final installation is very fast, probably half a day. If you want to DIY, please do a dry run before you nail down the hardwood boards. That is what the pros spend most of their time. -Edmund – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi to all: > My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am > wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, > transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down > hardwood flooring? > I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it > should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 > per square foot. > I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, > paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… > Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? > Thanks for all the help, > Art

Response:

Hi to all: My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down hardwood flooring? I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 per square foot. I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? Thanks for all the help, Art

Response:

If you’re going with solid wood, I’m assuming that price doesn’t include sanding, staining, finishing and the cost of the wood itself. My husband installed solid wood floor and it was VERY easy. (I did some portions too.)  We did have a pneumatic nailer which made it go faster-but it’s not necessary.   The nails (cleats) were about $10.00 a box. As long as you can use a table and miter saw efficiently-you shouldn’t have any difficulty at all.  The sanding/staining and finishing?  Well you could use the money you saved on the installation and let a pro do that. Shauna – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi to all: >My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am >wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, >transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down >hardwood flooring? >I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it >should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 >per square foot. >I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, >paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… >Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? >Thanks for all the help, >Art

Response:

Thanks for the reply: I’m buying would that is already pre-finished…Stained and has the polyurethane… Art – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If you’re going with solid wood, I’m assuming that price doesn’t >include sanding, staining, finishing and the cost of the wood itself. >My husband installed solid wood floor and it was VERY easy. (I did >some portions too.)  We did have a pneumatic nailer which made it go >faster-but it’s not necessary.   The nails (cleats) were about $10.00 >a box. >As long as you can use a table and miter saw efficiently-you shouldn’t >have any difficulty at all.  The sanding/staining and finishing?  Well >you could use the money you saved on the installation and let a pro do >that. >Shauna >Hi to all: >My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am >wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, >transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down >hardwood flooring? >I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it >should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 >per square foot. >I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, >paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… >Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? >Thanks for all the help, >Art

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi to all: > My wife and I are seriously considering hardwood flooring and am > wondering what would be a fair price to pay for the labor, > transisition strips (whatever they are), nails for nailing down > hardwood flooring? > I’m planning on approx 375 square feet.  I don’t know how long it > should take professionals to do it, but was quoted a price of $2.50 > per square foot. > I may consider doing it myself (finished my entired basement, > paneling, drywall, electrical, built enclosed deck, etc on my own)… > Could I do it without a peumatic nailer (but still do it efficiently)? > Thanks for all the help, > Art

I’m guessing that’s about a tree day job for a floor contractor to put down that much flooring and finish it. $2.50 a sqft to install doesn’t really sound out of line, unless it’s prefinished floor. It would take you longer, but it’s not too challenging to put down. It doesn’t get tricky till you get to sanding and finishing. You can get a non-pneumatic porta nailer for about $220 and would take about $50 in nails. If it’s not prefinished flooring, you’ve got the expense of the sanding and finishing, too. Check eBay for porta nailers, I see them there often, people bought one to do their floor, then turning around and selling it. You can get them slightly used, then sell it again more slightly used to recoup costs. — Travis Anton, BoxTop Software, Inc. – http://www.boxtopsoft.com "BoxTop Software’s ProJPEG plug-in consistently produces JPEG files that are routinely 50% smaller than Photoshop." – Jon Warren Lentz, Mac Art & Design Download PhotoGIF, ProJPEG, GIFmation, ColorSafe, ImageVice and more, all of the Web graphics gear you really need, from http://www.boxtopsoft.com

Response:

Question:

Check out the Cats at Play Corporation – they offer some terrific deals. Their URL is http://catsatplay.com/default.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I built my own cat tree in a day for about $50 (Canadian money too!).   The > most expensive item was the sisal rope.  I got the wood from the junk/odd > peice section at Home Depot.  The highest platform is nearly 6 feet high, > and has 4 poles with one that runs straight up to the top platform without > interruption.  My cats LOVE it!  Willow in particular spends a good part of > her day glued vertically to the main post with 3 paws while she uses the > other to bat at the other cats.  If your hubby ever wants to discuss ways to > build these things quick and easy, have him email me.  I still recommend > those "Turbo Scratch" gizmos too… they love those. > Gerry > Tomorrow is payday.  I’m heading down to my local Pet Valu and getting a > couple of Turbo Scratch toys for the guys. > I will definitely have Mark e-mail you.  I have looked at the cat trees > in the pet stores and they are pretty costly.  Since we have six cats I > would like to have more than one.  I think one per floor should be good. > We are in Canada, so I’m glad you added that the $50.00 was > Canadian…however even $75.00 is a bargain compared to the cost of some > of the cat trees I’ve seen. > Thanks for the advice. > Ann

Response:

>Check out the Cats at Play Corporation – they offer some terrific >deals. Their URL is http://catsatplay.com/default.htm

Thanks posting the link.  Their shipping charges seemed really high though. Mickey & Meesha’s Photo Page: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1278826&a=9501548

Response:

> I built my own cat tree in a day for about $50 (Canadian money too!).   The > most expensive item was the sisal rope.  I got the wood from the junk/odd > peice section at Home Depot.  The highest platform is nearly 6 feet high, > and has 4 poles with one that runs straight up to the top platform without > interruption.  My cats LOVE it!  Willow in particular spends a good part of > her day glued vertically to the main post with 3 paws while she uses the > other to bat at the other cats.  If your hubby ever wants to discuss ways to > build these things quick and easy, have him email me.  I still recommend > those "Turbo Scratch" gizmos too… they love those. > Gerry

Tomorrow is payday.  I’m heading down to my local Pet Valu and getting a couple of Turbo Scratch toys for the guys. I will definitely have Mark e-mail you.  I have looked at the cat trees in the pet stores and they are pretty costly.  Since we have six cats I would like to have more than one.  I think one per floor should be good. We are in Canada, so I’m glad you added that the $50.00 was Canadian…however even $75.00 is a bargain compared to the cost of some of the cat trees I’ve seen. Thanks for the advice. Ann

Response:

> At the end of my post I asked if anyone knew how to deter a cat from > clawing up the carpet.  I am not having him declawed, but would like it > if he didn’t claw. > I was accused of being a troll because of my post.  It seems I should > have posted a second, separate thread. > If I posted improperly I apologize. > Ann

It’s OK.  You just got caught up in a heated subject.  My best suggestion is to offer your cat different kinds of scratching posts — some upright and some flat.  My carpet scratching kitty likes to tear up a little kitty condo.  Also, some of my trees have rope posts and carpet posts on the same tree.  Some cats like to stand and pull up when they scratch — that’s probably what your cat likes since he’s clawing the carpet.  Get a post designed to hang from a door knob — wrapped in sisal rope with a rope hook on one end for hanging.  Then lie it flat down on the floor.  I’m betting your kitty will like scratching on that.  Include the scratching posts in games you play with your cat, and that will teach him to use them.  Good luck!  (Oh, and please cut off the little loop of rope so that kitty can’t get caught in it.) Eva

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->In fact, I probably won’t read the replies this post gets, either. >I asked myself ‘Why do people declaw in the first place?’. The answer seems >to >be *human vanity*; they care more about their precious furniture and carpet >than they do about their cats. > And you are wrong…..maybe pay attention to replies instead of assuming and > you won’t have such a narrow view. If that’s the only reason that you can think > of to declaw than yeah your cats are better off not being declawed….for me > there were many other reasons yours not even being one of them. It is a > decision one must make for their OWN cats. If someone had no plans to wear > earings they wouldn’t get their ears piecred right….basically the same with > this, if you see no reasons don’t do it, pretty simple wouldn’t you say.

The above illustrates why I would have preferred that the subject of "how to stop a cat scratching carpets" be free of the declawing subject.  There are more than enough threads here right now on the declawing debate.  This is in fact why I requested Ann Stewart to start a separate thread restricted to her question about carpet clawing.  Unfortunately, I failed once again. Gerry

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> The above illustrates why I would have preferred that the subject of "how to > stop a cat scratching carpets" be free of the declawing subject.  There are > more than enough threads here right now on the declawing debate.  This is in > fact why I requested Ann Stewart to start a separate thread restricted to > her question about carpet clawing.  Unfortunately, I failed once again. > Gerry

Sorry Gerry. I knew this was a very heated debate.  I guess I just didn’t realize how heated. On the plus side, I have gotten some great suggestions about how to deter D.C. from ripping up my carpets. Ann

Response:

Others have offered good suggestions, and I second them. The cardboard scratchers are marvelous. Another thing, though – do your cats scratch everywhere or just near closed doorways? You may be able to block doorway scratching locations by buying those plastic floor protectors they use in offices and covering up those areas. I did that when one of my cats had a penchant for scratching near my bedroom door. Anyway, good luck and welcome to the group. Laura – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Last night I posted here about my siamese cat, Shanghai who is peeing > all over the house.  After I sent my post I read some of the other posts > and got caught up in the declawing debate.  I know it is a very heated > discussion on both sides and usually just avoid it. > In my post I stated that I had six cats, two of which are declawed but > were done  before I got them.  I personally do not agree with declawing, > perhaps not as strongly as some of you, but I would never do it to a cat > unless a vet ( along with a second opinion and perhaps even a third) > said it was medically necessary. > At the end of my post I asked if anyone knew how to deter a cat from > clawing up the carpet.  I am not having him declawed, but would like it > if he didn’t claw. > I was accused of being a troll because of my post.  It seems I should > have posted a second, separate thread. > If I posted improperly I apologize. > I assure you I am not trolling, I just want my cat to stop ripping up > the carpet and use his scratching posts instead. > My theory is that we moved from a house that had virtually no carpeting > to one that is fully carpeted and at 6 years old he just thought the > whole house was his scratching post but I haven’t been able to change > his mind about that. > I am asking for help from people who love their cats and are > knowledgeable in this area because I really need help with these two > problems. > I won’t have D.C. declawed, but I would like a way to stop his > destructive behavior.  As for Shanghai, she is going to the vet next > week to find out if there is anything medically wrong with her.  My vet > said it sounds behavioral to him, but there are drugs that we can try. > In my post I also said that the the two declawed cats I have are healthy > and have no physical problems as a result of their declawing.  I > personally have never met any declawed cats that have had problems as a > result of the surgery.  That’s not to say they aren’t out there.  I > guess my guys were lucky. > Ann

Response:

>(snip) > I assure you I am not trolling, I just want my cat to stop ripping up > the carpet and use his scratching posts instead. > (snip) > I am asking for help from people who love their cats and are > knowledgeable in this area because I really need help with these two > problems. > (snip) > Ann

Hi, Ann, We stopped Cinder from clawing the carpet by a closed door by putting a strip of that clear plastic rug protector under the door and extending a couple of feet on either side of the door. We also have scratching posts and cat trees that are a combination of sisal and wood posts so that the cats won’t get the idea that it is a good idea to scratch carpet. They use both wood and sisal with enthusiasm. Maybe your cat wants a horizontal surface to scratch. We have a heavy woven doormat by our back door.  It’s supposed to be an outdoor mat, but the cats really like to dig into it and it’s lasted us nearly seven years with very little wear showing. Hope this helps. Annie

Response:

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. The plan for tomorrow is putting strips of clear plastic in front of the doors and to get some new and different scratching surfaces for the cats…especially D.C. I may even pick up a cat tree for them.  They will think it’s Christmas all over again. Last year I got them this thing called a cat spa.  It’s was the first time that all six of them really hung out together. Ann

Response:

> I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions. > The plan for tomorrow is putting strips of clear plastic in front of the > doors and to get some new and different scratching surfaces for the > cats…especially D.C. > I may even pick up a cat tree for them.  They will think it’s Christmas > all over again. > Last year I got them this thing called a cat spa.  It’s was the first > time that all six of them really hung out together. > Ann

I built my own cat tree in a day for about $50 (Canadian money too!).   The most expensive item was the sisal rope.  I got the wood from the junk/odd peice section at Home Depot.  The highest platform is nearly 6 feet high, and has 4 poles with one that runs straight up to the top platform without interruption.  My cats LOVE it!  Willow in particular spends a good part of her day glued vertically to the main post with 3 paws while she uses the other to bat at the other cats.  If your hubby ever wants to discuss ways to build these things quick and easy, have him email me.  I still recommend those "Turbo Scratch" gizmos too… they love those. Gerry

Response:

>In fact, I probably won’t read the replies this post gets, either. >I asked myself ‘Why do people declaw in the first place?’. The answer seems >to >be *human vanity*; they care more about their precious furniture and carpet >than they do about their cats.

And you are wrong…..maybe pay attention to replies instead of assuming and you won’t have such a narrow view. If that’s the only reason that you can think of to declaw than yeah your cats are better off not being declawed….for me there were many other reasons yours not even being one of them. It is a decision one must make for their OWN cats. If someone had no plans to wear earings they wouldn’t get their ears piecred right….basically the same with this, if you see no reasons don’t do it, pretty simple wouldn’t you say.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Last night I posted here about my siamese cat, Shanghai who is peeing > all over the house.  After I sent my post I read some of the other posts > and got caught up in the declawing debate.  I know it is a very heated > discussion on both sides and usually just avoid it. > In my post I stated that I had six cats, two of which are declawed but > were done  before I got them.  I personally do not agree with declawing, > perhaps not as strongly as some of you, but I would never do it to a cat > unless a vet ( along with a second opinion and perhaps even a third) > said it was medically necessary. > At the end of my post I asked if anyone knew how to deter a cat from > clawing up the carpet.  I am not having him declawed, but would like it > if he didn’t claw. > I was accused of being a troll because of my post.  It seems I should > have posted a second, separate thread. > If I posted improperly I apologize. > I assure you I am not trolling, I just want my cat to stop ripping up > the carpet and use his scratching posts instead. > My theory is that we moved from a house that had virtually no carpeting > to one that is fully carpeted and at 6 years old he just thought the > whole house was his scratching post but I haven’t been able to change > his mind about that. > I am asking for help from people who love their cats and are > knowledgeable in this area because I really need help with these two > problems. > I won’t have D.C. declawed, but I would like a way to stop his > destructive behavior.  As for Shanghai, she is going to the vet next > week to find out if there is anything medically wrong with her.  My vet > said it sounds behavioral to him, but there are drugs that we can try. > In my post I also said that the the two declawed cats I have are healthy > and have no physical problems as a result of their declawing.  I > personally have never met any declawed cats that have had problems as a > result of the surgery.  That’s not to say they aren’t out there.  I > guess my guys were lucky. > Ann

Greetings: I, too, avoid the subject, as it seems there is always an argument going about it here. In fact, I probably won’t read the replies this post gets, either. That being said, here are a few of my thoughts on the issue: I asked myself ‘Why do people declaw in the first place?’. The answer seems to be *human vanity*; they care more about their precious furniture and carpet than they do about their cats. So, what do people do to "solve" it? They provide carpeted things like scratching posts, expecting the cats to readily and instantly distinguish which carpeted thing is and is not ok to scratch. I have found that Troni prefers (firm) foam rubber things to sharpen on, rather than carpet. She has pretty much ruined my flip-flops this way; now the surface feels like "rubber grass". She also likes those foam mats made for standing on (used in the workplace). So, I gave the flip-flops to her for just this purpose. You might consider trying something like that, as a pair of "sacrificial" flip-flops are real cheap. Lectris, OTOH, has always sharpened her claws on the carpet on the floor. She has been doing this for at least two years and I have yet to be able to tell where she has done it; there is no visible damage. Even if there were, life is too short to over-rule LOVE with material possessions. When I was very young, I would wet the bet (as MOST of you did); I’m grateful my parents didn’t rush *me* into surgical alteration for it. I used to pick at scabs a lot, too, as well as pick my nose. I even occasionally broke things; I’m glad they didn’t "declaw" me for it! If I can survive the many times I got a claw in ME, I certainly can abide their natural instinct that God gave them. Compared to my measly possessions, the health and love of my cats means everything to me. To those with countless vain possessions, maybe you shouldn’t include CATS as one of those possessions, because obviously the trinkets mean more than the cats do. Gary Schooley

Response:

> At the end of my post I asked if anyone knew how to deter a cat from > clawing up the carpet.  I am not having him declawed, but would like it > if he didn’t claw. > I was accused of being a troll because of my post.  It seems I should > have posted a second, separate thread. > If I posted improperly I apologize. > I assure you I am not trolling, I just want my cat to stop ripping up > the carpet and use his scratching posts instead. > My theory is that we moved from a house that had virtually no carpeting > to one that is fully carpeted and at 6 years old he just thought the > whole house was his scratching post but I haven’t been able to change > his mind about that.

He might be one of those cats who prefer scratching horizontal rather than vertical surfaces.  There are a couple of things you could try.  One is one of those inexpensive cardboard scratching mats that are available at many pet stores; the other is a woven rope/sisal mat (like a welcome mat) – you can find these at places like IKEA and Cost Plus, and also sometimes at home improvement stores.  Try getting one of each (get the biggest size rope mat that you can find) and placing them side by side on the spot where your cat most likes to shred the carpet, and rub them both with catnip as an added incentive.  My experience of cats is generally that, when given a better alternative to carpet, they’ll choose the alternative – and cats seem to love these two scratching surfaces.  My guess is that he’ll go for one, or both – and when he does, give him *lots* of praise and positive reinforcement.  Once you’ve figured out what surface(s) he likes to scratch, give him one in each carpeted room of the house where he is currently scratching.

Response:

> I could be mistaken (my server sometimes doesn’t get all the posts too > quickly), but after reviewing the thread in question I’ve failed to find a > poster that accused you of being a troll.

Hi Gerry Sorry, I woke up checked the ng and misread something and took it to mean that I was accused of trolling. > If the scratching carpet areas are not restricted to areas in front of > closed doors,

Most of his clawing is the area in front of closed doors, but he also really likes the living room carpet right in front of the fireplace and also in front of the big patio doors. I don’t have a cat tree yet, but I think on payday we may be getting one.  My husband has been putting it off because he had planned on making one but has just never gotten around to it. The two cats get along great.  They groom each other and sleep together. > You should also ensure the > current carpet scratching areas are made less desirable by covering the > areas temporarily with tapped-down peices of plastic carpet runner or > similar material. >  I’ll give that a try.  Personally, with two bouviers, 6 cats a few visitor dogs and 2 small kids who spill stuff on a regular basis, I like the ceramic tile idea.  Our entryway has ceramic tile and it is so much easier to clean up.  The kitchen is cheesy old vinyl flooring that was never properly installed.  Also very easy to clean up, just not really nice to look at.  Someday I will get this house looking the way I want it to.

Thanks for the advice. Ann – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If all fails, you may want to look into ceramic tiles and hardwood flooring > ;-) > Gerry

Response:

>At the end of my post I asked if anyone knew how to deter a cat from >clawing up the carpet.  I am not having him declawed, but would like it >if he didn’t claw. >I was accused of being a troll because of my post.  It seems I should >have posted a second, separate thread. >If I posted improperly I apologize.

Please don’t feel you need to apologize.  There’s a few rather overzealous folks in this newsgroup wrt using that word (and a few other things) but the majority of the people here are friendly, knowledable folks.  :)  I’ve learned that whenever there is any threads with the world "declaw" in the subject and SLK posts more than three times it’s going to turn into one of those threads that goes round and round and gets up your nose and last for weeks without really going anywhere.  Anymore I just kill those threads. I don’t know that it would be "improper" necessarily not to have started a new thread, but it’ll probably be more productive. *grin* >I assure you I am not trolling, I just want my cat to stop ripping up >the carpet and use his scratching posts instead.

Have you considered using Softpaws?  I believe you can get them at pet supply stores (we haven’t used them as of yet as we’ve not had problems with deterring cats from clawing up the furniture). Basically you trim their claws and then these plastic caps are placed over the trimmed claws.  My understanding is that they get used to them very quickly and it does cut down quite a bit on the damage clawing does.   >In my post I also said that the the two declawed cats I have are healthy >and have no physical problems as a result of their declawing.  I >personally have never met any declawed cats that have had problems as a >result of the surgery.  That’s not to say they aren’t out there.  I >guess my guys were lucky. >Ann

I have had two cats in the past which were declawed when I got them and none of them had any behavior problems.  They seemed like perfectly normal, well-adjusted cats to me.  I think declawing is a bad idea and wouldn’t ever do it to mine, but that stems from knowing what the procedure is all about and also the concern that no matter how diligent you are you can’t 100% guarantee the cat will never get out and if they’re declawed they haven’t a good portion of their natural defenses.  I feel it’s an inhumane thing to do to a cat (though I recognize that there are sometimes situations where folks who are well-meaning but ignorant do it, not realizing that it is an inhumane thing to do).  But as far as having behavior problems, no.   You mentioned you have a Siamese.  I’d invite you to check out http://www.meezer.com/ which is the Siamese Internet Cat Club.  They have some message boards on there full of truly wonderful, caring, kind people and many of them are exceptionally knowledgable about cats in general and Meezers in particular.   Good luck! Rev. Tiernan — mhm22×21 Smeetered   Bitch#8   WSD#25   NekkidFlonker#2   Official "I Am Spooge" Lits Elf

Question:

> Anyone know whether it is advisable to install > padding under hardwood flooring? > We went to multi-line showroom – bozo was trying > to insist that plastic bubble, or even better cloth > pad would help absorb vibrations and hollow > sound from wood floor. > Thoughts?

Tell Bozo that you dont put padding under a wood floor, unless you wear

Response:

There was padding under my wood floor. It was like thick felt.  It was suppose to stop any wood-to-wood (finished wood flooring to wooden subflooring) squeaking.  It must have worked, my floor never squeaked. However, I wasn’t there when it was installed so I can’t speak for what the installer was wearing that day.  :) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Tell Bozo that you dont put padding under a wood floor, unless you wear

Response:

Anyone know whether it is advisable to install padding under hardwood flooring? We went to multi-line showroom – bozo was trying to insist that plastic bubble, or even better cloth pad would help absorb vibrations and hollow sound from wood floor. Thoughts?

Response:

Question:

A home built in 1996 has hardwood flooring in the foyer leading up the hall to the kitchen.  This same floor also leads into the powder room.   The homeowner had a piece of carpet just inside the entry, it appears to be what the original floor may have looked like.  The rest of the floor is more "yellowed".  It is not an unpleasant color, but we would like it all to be the same.  Is there an easy fix to this?  Don’t say to buy another piece of carpet to match the size of the one the homeowner had.  Sheesh. It is not the sun that did this, or it would not reach into the powder room or down the hall.

Response:

> A home built in 1996 has hardwood flooring in the foyer leading > up the hall to the kitchen.  This same floor also leads into the > powder room. > The homeowner had a piece of carpet just inside the entry, it > appears to be what the original floor may have looked like.  The > rest of the floor is more "yellowed".  It is not an unpleasant > color, but we would like it all to be the same.  Is there an easy

The exposed floorboards have oxidised (reacted with free air) while the covered boards have not.  If you sand and refinish they may look all the same:  or you can stain part to match the rest. — Donald Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) 613 822 0734

Response:

I had this happen and just moved the rug.  Within a few weeks the mark was gone.  This was within 6 months or so of having had the floors refinished. If the rug has been there a long time it might take longer than a few weeks or it might be permanent.   I would think that waiting a couple of months to see if the mark starts turning closer to the rest of the floor is a lot cheaper than rushing to refinish the floors.   Since I discovered this type of thing happening I shift the position of my smaller rugs periodically so that there isn’t a sharp change in tone at the edge of the rug.  With the big rugs I can’t really do that, so I live with knowing that the floor is lighter under the rugs. Good luck, Sarah W. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A home built in 1996 has hardwood flooring in the foyer leading > up the hall to the kitchen.  This same floor also leads into the > powder room.   > The homeowner had a piece of carpet just inside the entry, it > appears to be what the original floor may have looked like.  The > rest of the floor is more "yellowed".  It is not an unpleasant > color, but we would like it all to be the same.  Is there an easy > fix to this?  Don’t say to buy another piece of carpet to match > the size of the one the homeowner had.  Sheesh. > It is not the sun that did this, or it would not reach into the > powder room or down the hall.

Response: