The National Pond Society's Truths About Caring For Ponds | Home Contractor

Consumer Homes. » Home Contractor » The National Pond Society's Truths About Caring For Ponds

The National Pond Society's Truths About Caring For Ponds

Question:

This was sent to me as an unsolicited email. I thought some of you might be interested : The National Pond Society’s Truths About Caring For Ponds A Practical and Authoritative Source of Information For Those Who Name Their Fish 1. Any unexplained loss of pond water requires immediate attention. 2. Dechlorinate whenever public tap water is added to the pond system. 3. Clear debris from streams and waterfalls to avoid water loss. 4. Pond surface ice interferes with the beneficial gas exchange between pond water and the atmosphere. 5. To avoid excess organic debris install a pond net at the first sign of falling leaves. 6. Pond aeration may be accomplished by water movement from returning water from waterfalls and fountains. 7. The pH of pond water should not be altered more than 1.0 in a 24 hour period. 8. Avoid locating aquatic plants directly in front of or below the returning water from waterfalls or fountains. 9. Pond fish and beneficial nitrifying bacteria require well aerated pond water. 10. In early spring, over a 4 day period, add one pound of non-iodized salt per 100 gallons of pond water. 11. Avoid the use of any pond treatment that would threaten the health of pond bacteria. 12. Melt a hole in any ice that has formed on the pond surface, avoid mechanically breaking the ice. 13. Algae will grow where the pH is above 7.0, there is excess plant nutrients, sunlight and warm water. 14. Long stringy algae can be removed from pond stone work with a small amount of salt. 15. Floating foam on the water surface beneath waterfalls indicates excessive organic matter. 16. Sludge eating bacteria added to a pond will reduce its excessive organic matter. 17. It would be wise not to immediately react to adverse test kit results without other supporting indicators. 18. A hole in pond ice may be held open with a floating heater. 19. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature should be listed with the Underwriters Laboratory (UL). 20. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature should be Ground fault protected. 21. Keeping a pond journal becomes more important, the older one gets. 22. Emulating nature’s ways is more productive than excessive amounts of money spent. 23. In late fall aquatic plants require culling, dramatic pruning and relocation to a water level not likely to freeze. In late fall, pond fish will seek the warmer water levels and reduce their physical activities including eating. 25. It is dangerous to pond life to attempt to lower the pH of soft pond water. 26. The pond keeper must take the responsibility for understanding the choices of their actions or in actions. 27. The waterfall pump suction inlet must not be allowed to clog with pond debris. 28. The output of the mechanical filter pump should not over power the filter media negating its function to clarify the pond water. 29. Before hiring a pond maintenance contractor talk to at least 3 current customers. Don’t assume anything and listen carefully. 30. Moving pond water prevents suspended pond debris from settling to the bottom of the pond. 31. A 5% water exchange weekly will remove 70% of all pond pollutants. 32. Ponds built by contractors tend to be more difficult to manage and require practical adaptations. 33. The best pond fish remedial treatment is prudent preventive procedures. 34. Uneaten fish food left on the pond surface or any where else will draw fish eating wildlife. 35. Cull yellowing plant vegetation before it negatively effects the pond ecology. 36. Mixing brands of pond treatments could effect the results of test kits. 37. Including new pond fish puts all the existing fish at risk of disease and parasites. 38. Game fish and ornamental pond fish are incompatible. 39. Native, wild fish and plants will infect a pond with disease and parasites. 40. All pond life are stressed when the water temperature exceeds 80 degrees F. 41. Consider safety in everything you do about the pond. 42. Pristine pond water clarity is not a specific indication of a healthy environment for pond life. 43. Patience and knowledge share equally in properly caring for an ornamental pond. 44. The enjoyment of a pond is not linked to how much one spends on it. 45. Careful, knowing observation of pond events cannot only be enjoyable but in the best interest of pond life. 46. Ideally, koi and aquatic plants are enjoyed in connected separate ponds. 47. There are some aquatic plants that grow faster than koi tend to consume them. 48. Third year pond keepers tend to seek others to share their home grown fish and plants with. 49. Including freshwater snails, clams or mussels in ornamental ponds is an unnecessary risk to pond life. 50. Goldfish and aquatic plants are quite compatible, they support each others needs while not normally at the others expense. 51. The pond site historical weather – climate, has a great deal to do with the realistic expectations of specific ornamental pond. 52. Once one appreciates the value of a pond its care is not referred to as maintenance. 53. Listen carefully to a knowledgeable pond keeper. 54. Sky divers and pond keepers have a great deal in common. 55. The friendliness of a named pond goldfish creates a bond between the parties of trust and obligation. 56. Extended power outages can be a threat to the health and survival of valued pond life if not anticipated. 57. In order not to upset the ecology of a balanced pond culling of its excess pond life should be paced over time. 58. A shallow pond of less than 14" should not be located in full sunlight. 59. Potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, ozone and the ions of copper and silver are extremely toxic to all forms of pond life in very low concentrations. 60. Pond keepers should support those suppliers who take the time to provide timely, useful assistance. 61. Well source water may contain high levels of iron, bacteria, total dissolved solids, mercury and lead. 62. Pond water exposed to masonry may have high pH and alkalinity. 63. The use of even a cleaned test tube for more than one type of water test can cause inaccurate results. 64. Pond fish tend to temporarily disappear for a few days just before spawning activity in the spring. 65. The green-brown mulum coating the pond basin should not be removed. 66. The pond water alkalinity may be raised by adding baking soda. 67. Nutrient uptake of aquatic plants is more efficient at lower levels of 6.5 pH. 68. Most water gardens do not require a biofilter in order to control fish toxic ammonia. 69. All ornamental pond require some sort of mechanical filtration to control water clarity. 70. In northern climates it is useful to thermally insulate shallow pond water from the ground. 71. Where the depth of the pond is below the frost line insulation should not be used. 72. Reduced waterfall water flow indicated the filter or pump requires servicing. 73. Care must be taken to observe any water lost from squirting ornaments that rest outside the pond. 74. A properly oxygenated biofilter should not smell of rotten eggs. 75. The pH and oxygen levels in pond water are lowest in early morning. 76. The carbon dioxide level in pond water is highest in early morning. 77. Feeding fish is not necessary in established ponds. 78. Remove the spent blossoms of water lilies and lotus. 79. The principle source of pond water ammonia is the protein in the fish food you feed your fish. 80. The addition of underwater aquatic plants such as parrot feather and anachris will reduce algae growth. 81. The pond ecology benefits from half its surface covered in aquatic plants. 82. Streams function very effectively as mechanical filters and degasses carbon dioxide while increasing oxygen. 83. Potted aquatic plants may be divided in late fall when they are trimmed for the winter. 84. A light cleaning of pond debris is best done in the fall. 85. Do not use marble chips to hold down container soil. 86. Aquatic plants do not require soil, they may be rooted in coconut fiber, gravel and sponges. 87. The use of a skimmer that brings oxygen rich surface water directly to the pond bottom is extremely useful. 88. A plant container should be completely wetted before it is placed with in the pond water. 89. It is strongly recommended that no effort be made to lower the pH of pond water if the alkalinity is below 150. 90. A polluted pond with black water requires a major water exchange and cleaning. 91. It is not unusual for fish to expire before dawn without showing any indication of cause, suspect low oxygen. 92. pH test kits have no value if the alkalinity of the water sample is below 80. 93. Oil floating on surface may be removed by absorbent towels, newspaper or by overflowing the pond. 94. To minimize algae, avoid any pond treatment containing phosphate in any form. 95. Pond fish can adapt to nitrate levels under 250. 96. Algae is an excellent natural fish food. 97. Translucent tea colored pond water may be clarified with an activated carbon filter. 98. One can identify koi by their characteristic barbell on each side of the mouth. 99. Shubunkins have blue bodies speckled with multicolored small blotches. 100. The small red worms found in ponds and filter make excellent fish food. 101. In spring, frogs will be drawn to every pond. 102. Unless one finds freshwater snails, clams and mussels that do not poop they should not be used in ornamental ponds. 103. Oxygenating submerged plants may be divided and replanted as its vegetation doubles in size. 104. It is advisable to plant in a gravel filled tray or weight submerged plants. 105. Floating plants provide useful shade to ponds. 106. Bottom drains are not necessary in a water garden or the average koi pond. 107. Every water garden would benefit each year by adding a different color lily or one with unusual blossom … read more »

Response:

My goodness! 185! I read them all. Don’t agree with them all… K30A See my brother’s website http://WWW.30acreimaging.com/ see the labradors at http://www.daydreamergardens.com/2_level/articles/dog_how_to.htm K30A and friends’ pond information page http://hometown.aol.com/k30a/myhomepage/writing.html

Response:

>This was sent to me as an unsolicited email. I thought >some of you might be interested :

Thanks Jessica, this is interesting and I just have to add my comments to your unsolicitied e-mail…. >The National Pond Society’s Truths About Caring For Ponds >A Practical and Authoritative Source of Information For Those Who Name >Their Fish

Especially when it claims *Authoritative Source*… well ya know Rec.ponders have just got to speak out… >1. Any unexplained loss of pond water requires immediate attention.

Well, duh! But to remain unexplained we do have to admit the possibility of alien water buffalo flying in for a drink. Afterall, once the reason is discovered it no longer fits this catagory…. hmmm, let’s see what else is here…. >2. Dechlorinate whenever public tap water is added to the pond system. >3. Clear debris from streams and waterfalls to avoid water loss. >4. Pond surface ice interferes with the beneficial gas exchange between >pond water and the atmosphere. >5. To avoid excess organic debris install a pond net at the first sign >of falling leaves. >6. Pond aeration may be accomplished by water movement from returning >water from waterfalls and fountains.

According to that great chart Rod found at www.koiusa.com called *Help, I Can’t Breathe* aeration was best accomplished by the waterfall specifically falling on rocks and/or water pump with venturi. Straight waterfalls and fountains were listed at the low end. >7. The pH of pond water should not be altered more than 1.0 in a 24 hour >period.

I thought it was 0.4? >8. Avoid locating aquatic plants directly in front of or below the >returning water from waterfalls or fountains.

But watercress loves to be here, and if in a rocky pot, more aeration as one breaks up the flow. >9. Pond fish and beneficial nitrifying bacteria require well aerated >pond water. >10. In early spring, over a 4 day period, add one pound of non-iodized >salt per 100 gallons of pond water.

I hate this easy math for salt addition. >11. Avoid the use of any pond treatment that would threaten the health >of pond bacteria.

In that case, cancel #10. and make that, add a total of 13.3 ounces of salt/100 gallons over a 3 day period. >12. Melt a hole in any ice that has formed on the pond surface, avoid >mechanically breaking the ice. >13. Algae will grow where the pH is above 7.0, there is excess plant >nutrients, sunlight and warm water.

Algae will also grow where the pH is below 7.0, last I heard. >14. Long stringy algae can be removed from pond stone work with a small >amount of salt.

Added to the water, sprinkled on or scrubbed with? Heck, if you just scrub it who needs salt? >15. Floating foam on the water surface beneath waterfalls indicates >excessive organic matter. >16. Sludge eating bacteria added to a pond will reduce its excessive >organic matter. >17. It would be wise not to immediately react to adverse test kit >results without other supporting indicators.

Ah, but see #26. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->18. A hole in pond ice may be held open with a floating heater. >19. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature >should be listed with the Underwriters Laboratory (UL). >20. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature >should be Ground fault protected. >21. Keeping a pond journal becomes more important, the older one gets. >22. Emulating nature’s ways is more productive than excessive amounts of >money spent. >23. In late fall aquatic plants require culling, dramatic pruning and >relocation to a water level not likely to freeze. >24. In late fall, pond fish will seek the warmer water levels and reduce >their physical activities including eating. >25. It is dangerous to pond life to attempt to lower the pH of soft pond >water. >26. The pond keeper must take the responsibility for understanding the >choices of their actions or in actions. >27. The waterfall pump suction inlet must not be allowed to clog with >pond debris. >28. The output of the mechanical filter pump should not over power the >filter media negating its function to clarify the pond water. >29. Before hiring a pond maintenance contractor talk to at least 3 >current customers. Don’t assume anything and listen carefully. >30. Moving pond water prevents suspended pond debris from settling to >the bottom of the pond.

So is that a good thing or not? I can show you a pond with turn around less than an hour and the debris and dirt settle right out, doesn’t even make it to the bottom drain or skimmer, water clear as a bell. >31. A 5% water exchange weekly will remove 70% of all pond pollutants.

REALLY? I’d like to see the science behind that. Perhaps they mean 5% water change weekly will remove 70% of pollutants in 3 month’s time, if there are no pollutants added in those 3 months? >32. Ponds built by contractors tend to be more difficult to manage and >require practical adaptations.

IME, I’d almost have to agree. >33. The best pond fish remedial treatment is prudent preventive >procedures.

Amen! >34. Uneaten fish food left on the pond surface or any where else will >draw fish eating wildlife. >35. Cull yellowing plant vegetation before it negatively effects the >pond ecology. >36. Mixing brands of pond treatments could effect the results of test >kits. >37. Including new pond fish puts all the existing fish at risk of >disease and parasites. >38. Game fish and ornamental pond fish are incompatible.

I bet there are exceptions. >39. Native, wild fish and plants will infect a pond with disease and >parasites.

Put them thru the same quarantine &/or disinfecting and one should be okay. >40. All pond life are stressed when the water temperature exceeds 80 >degrees F.

Too broad, tropical lilies sure aren’t and judging by their mannerisms neither are the fish and water buggies. Now if it exceeds 88F ….. >41. Consider safety in everything you do about the pond. >42. Pristine pond water clarity is not a specific indication of a >healthy environment for pond life. >43. Patience and knowledge share equally in properly caring for an >ornamental pond.

Let’s not forget "Eternal Optimism!" ) >44. The enjoyment of a pond is not linked to how much one spends on it. >45. Careful, knowing observation of pond events cannot only be enjoyable >but in the best interest of pond life. >46. Ideally, koi and aquatic plants are enjoyed in connected separate >ponds.

Ideally? Depends on who’s idea we base this on. Fish have less stress in planted ponds. A less stressed fish is a healthier fish. >47. There are some aquatic plants that grow faster than koi tend to >consume them.

And I guess they all reside at my pond. ;o) I’ve resorted to bungee cords to hold several of them up right. >48. Third year pond keepers tend to seek others to share their home >grown fish and plants with.

So what do 4th, 5th, 6th, etc. year ponders do? >49. Including freshwater snails, clams or mussels in ornamental ponds is >an unnecessary risk to pond life. >50. Goldfish and aquatic plants are quite compatible, they support each >others needs while not normally at the others expense. >51. The pond site historical weather – climate, has a great deal to do >with the realistic expectations of specific ornamental pond. >52. Once one appreciates the value of a pond its care is not referred to >as maintenance. >53. Listen carefully to a knowledgeable pond keeper. >54. Sky divers and pond keepers have a great deal in common.

Excuse me? Anyone out there have a pond and sky dive also? Is this true? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->55. The friendliness of a named pond goldfish creates a bond between the >parties of trust and obligation. >56. Extended power outages can be a threat to the health and survival of >valued pond life if not anticipated. >57. In order not to upset the ecology of a balanced pond culling of its >excess pond life should be paced over time. >58. A shallow pond of less than 14" should not be located in full >sunlight. >59. Potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, ozone and the ions of >copper and silver are extremely toxic to all forms of pond life in very >low concentrations. >60. Pond keepers should support those suppliers who take the time to >provide timely, useful assistance. >61. Well source water may contain high levels of iron, bacteria, total >dissolved solids, mercury and lead. >62. Pond water exposed to masonry may have high pH and alkalinity. >63. The use of even a cleaned test tube for more than one type of water >test can cause inaccurate results.

Huh? If it’s clean it’s clean, right? So what does it matter? If it’s got residue from another test, it’s not clean. >64. Pond fish tend to temporarily disappear for a few days just before >spawning activity in the spring.

The alien theory again. >65. The green-brown mulum coating the pond basin should not be removed. >66. The pond water alkalinity may be raised by adding baking soda. >67. Nutrient uptake of aquatic plants is more efficient at lower levels >of 6.5 pH.

I don’t think so, if algae can’t live at 7.0 (see #13) what do you think the higher plant forms are doing at 6.5? >68. Most water gardens do not require a biofilter in order to control >fish toxic ammonia.

I think "with low fish loads" ought to be added to #68, just to clarify it. >69. All ornamental pond require some sort of mechanical filtration to >control water clarity.

Well shoot, if you’re going to go to the trouble of mechanical filtration might as well add the bio-filter at the same time and not worry about keeping a low fish load. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->70. In northern climates it is useful to thermally insulate shallow >pond water from the ground. >71. Where the depth of the pond is below the frost line insulation >should not be used. >72. Reduced waterfall water

Response:

This was clearly written by two people that have opposing views Perhaps one with multiple personalities. Lots of giggling about #22 and a picture in my head about wild filters and electrical outlets blooming in the marshes and streams. "follow nature",and "nature will bring death and disease…" I wouldn’t dare take one side or the other but you can’t do both 100%. Very strange read. Tana

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This was sent to me as an unsolicited email. I thought > some of you might be interested : > The National Pond Society’s Truths About Caring For Ponds > A Practical and Authoritative Source of Information For Those Who Name > Their Fish > 1. Any unexplained loss of pond water requires immediate attention. > 2. Dechlorinate whenever public tap water is added to the pond system. > 3. Clear debris from streams and waterfalls to avoid water loss. > 4. Pond surface ice interferes with the beneficial gas exchange between > pond water and the atmosphere. > 5. To avoid excess organic debris install a pond net at the first sign > of falling leaves. > 6. Pond aeration may be accomplished by water movement from returning > water from waterfalls and fountains. > 7. The pH of pond water should not be altered more than 1.0 in a 24 hour > period. > 8. Avoid locating aquatic plants directly in front of or below the > returning water from waterfalls or fountains. > 9. Pond fish and beneficial nitrifying bacteria require well aerated > pond water. > 10. In early spring, over a 4 day period, add one pound of non-iodized > salt per 100 gallons of pond water. > 11. Avoid the use of any pond treatment that would threaten the health > of pond bacteria. > 12. Melt a hole in any ice that has formed on the pond surface, avoid > mechanically breaking the ice. > 13. Algae will grow where the pH is above 7.0, there is excess plant > nutrients, sunlight and warm water. > 14. Long stringy algae can be removed from pond stone work with a small > amount of salt. > 15. Floating foam on the water surface beneath waterfalls indicates > excessive organic matter. > 16. Sludge eating bacteria added to a pond will reduce its excessive > organic matter. > 17. It would be wise not to immediately react to adverse test kit > results without other supporting indicators. > 18. A hole in pond ice may be held open with a floating heater. > 19. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature > should be listed with the Underwriters Laboratory (UL). > 20. Any electrical product used in association with a water feature > should be Ground fault protected. > 21. Keeping a pond journal becomes more important, the older one gets. > 22. Emulating nature’s ways is more productive than excessive amounts of > money spent. > 23. In late fall aquatic plants require culling, dramatic pruning and > relocation to a water level not likely to freeze. > In late fall, pond fish will seek the warmer water levels and reduce > their physical activities including eating. > 25. It is dangerous to pond life to attempt to lower the pH of soft pond > water. > 26. The pond keeper must take the responsibility for understanding the > choices of their actions or in actions. > 27. The waterfall pump suction inlet must not be allowed to clog with > pond debris. > 28. The output of the mechanical filter pump should not over power the > filter media negating its function to clarify the pond water. > 29. Before hiring a pond maintenance contractor talk to at least 3 > current customers. Don’t assume anything and listen carefully. > 30. Moving pond water prevents suspended pond debris from settling to > the bottom of the pond. > 31. A 5% water exchange weekly will remove 70% of all pond pollutants. > 32. Ponds built by contractors tend to be more difficult to manage and > require practical adaptations. > 33. The best pond fish remedial treatment is prudent preventive > procedures. > 34. Uneaten fish food left on the pond surface or any where else will > draw fish eating wildlife. > 35. Cull yellowing plant vegetation before it negatively effects the > pond ecology. > 36. Mixing brands of pond treatments could effect the results of test > kits. > 37. Including new pond fish puts all the existing fish at risk of > disease and parasites. > 38. Game fish and ornamental pond fish are incompatible. > 39. Native, wild fish and plants will infect a pond with disease and > parasites. > 40. All pond life are stressed when the water temperature exceeds 80 > degrees F. > 41. Consider safety in everything you do about the pond. > 42. Pristine pond water clarity is not a specific indication of a > healthy environment for pond life. > 43. Patience and knowledge share equally in properly caring for an > ornamental pond. > 44. The enjoyment of a pond is not linked to how much one spends on it. > 45. Careful, knowing observation of pond events cannot only be enjoyable > but in the best interest of pond life. > 46. Ideally, koi and aquatic plants are enjoyed in connected separate > ponds. > 47. There are some aquatic plants that grow faster than koi tend to > consume them. > 48. Third year pond keepers tend to seek others to share their home > grown fish and plants with. > 49. Including freshwater snails, clams or mussels in ornamental ponds is > an unnecessary risk to pond life. > 50. Goldfish and aquatic plants are quite compatible, they support each > others needs while not normally at the others expense. > 51. The pond site historical weather – climate, has a great deal to do > with the realistic expectations of specific ornamental pond. > 52. Once one appreciates the value of a pond its care is not referred to > as maintenance. > 53. Listen carefully to a knowledgeable pond keeper. > 54. Sky divers and pond keepers have a great deal in common. > 55. The friendliness of a named pond goldfish creates a bond between the > parties of trust and obligation. > 56. Extended power outages can be a threat to the health and survival of > valued pond life if not anticipated. > 57. In order not to upset the ecology of a balanced pond culling of its > excess pond life should be paced over time. > 58. A shallow pond of less than 14" should not be located in full > sunlight. > 59. Potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, ozone and the ions of > copper and silver are extremely toxic to all forms of pond life in very > low concentrations. > 60. Pond keepers should support those suppliers who take the time to > provide timely, useful assistance. > 61. Well source water may contain high levels of iron, bacteria, total > dissolved solids, mercury and lead. > 62. Pond water exposed to masonry may have high pH and alkalinity. > 63. The use of even a cleaned test tube for more than one type of water > test can cause inaccurate results. > 64. Pond fish tend to temporarily disappear for a few days just before > spawning activity in the spring. > 65. The green-brown mulum coating the pond basin should not be removed. > 66. The pond water alkalinity may be raised by adding baking soda. > 67. Nutrient uptake of aquatic plants is more efficient at lower levels > of 6.5 pH. > 68. Most water gardens do not require a biofilter in order to control > fish toxic ammonia. > 69. All ornamental pond require some sort of mechanical filtration to > control water clarity. > 70. In northern climates it is useful to thermally insulate shallow > pond water from the ground. > 71. Where the depth of the pond is below the frost line insulation > should not be used. > 72. Reduced waterfall water flow indicated the filter or pump requires > servicing. > 73. Care must be taken to observe any water lost from squirting > ornaments that rest outside the pond. > 74. A properly oxygenated biofilter should not smell of rotten eggs. > 75. The pH and oxygen levels in pond water are lowest in early morning. > 76. The carbon dioxide level in pond water is highest in early morning. > 77. Feeding fish is not necessary in established ponds. > 78. Remove the spent blossoms of water lilies and lotus. > 79. The principle source of pond water ammonia is the protein in the > fish food you feed your fish. > 80. The addition of underwater aquatic plants such as parrot feather and > anachris will reduce algae growth. > 81. The pond ecology benefits from half its surface covered in aquatic > plants. > 82. Streams function very effectively as mechanical filters and degasses > carbon dioxide while increasing oxygen. > 83. Potted aquatic plants may be divided in late fall when they are > trimmed for the winter. > 84. A light cleaning of pond debris is best done in the fall. > 85. Do not use marble chips to hold down container soil. > 86. Aquatic plants do not require soil, they may be rooted in coconut > fiber, gravel and sponges. > 87. The use of a skimmer that brings oxygen rich surface water directly > to the pond bottom is extremely useful. > 88. A plant container should be completely wetted before it is placed > with in the pond water. > 89. It is strongly recommended that no effort be made to lower the pH of > pond water if the alkalinity is below 150. > 90. A polluted pond with black water requires a major water exchange and > cleaning. > 91. It is not unusual for fish to expire before dawn without showing any > indication of cause, suspect low oxygen. > 92. pH test kits have no value if the alkalinity of the water sample is > below 80. > 93. Oil floating on surface may be removed by absorbent towels, > newspaper or by overflowing the pond. > 94. To minimize algae, avoid any pond treatment containing phosphate in > any form. > 95. Pond fish can adapt to nitrate levels under 250. > 96. Algae is an excellent