Question:
My dog is now 10 months old and is still jumping up. I have really worked on the sit stay, when someone comes to my door he just goes nuts. Some days are better than others. I am now working with him on sit/stay when I come in the door (as he is usually excited to no end). I have never owned a dog that jumped up. I have started carrying goodies to work with me so that when I get home, I get him in the sit stay and reward him. Why is it some dogs in a litter are calm/laid back and others wide open? Thanks for any info.
Response:
I can relate. My two year old dog is fine with my husband and I, but if someone comes over she gets so excited she is virtually uncontrollable. We found that if you have the visitors come in and sit down she won’t jump on them. So that’s what we do now. We also tried everything –getting her to sit, which works for about a split second, keeping a leash on her so we could hold her back, not reacting when she jumps (this works, but unfortunately it takes a jump or two before she realizes she should sit before she gets pets), and having the guests sit before the dog is in the room works best. Slowly but surely she is calming down. We figure by the time she’s 10 or so she’ll be perfect! Monica
Response:
Hi Patty, There are a number of solutions for this problem, but without knowing what kind of dog you have (the breed) and what kind of character he has (whether he is more the dominant or the submissive type and whether you are having any other maybe minor problems with it), i couldn’t advise you at all, i’m afraid. If you could give me some more info I’d be more than happy to give you some idea’s. Hope to hear from you soon. Astrid – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My dog is now 10 months old and is still jumping up. I have really worked on the sit stay, when > someone comes to my door he just goes nuts. Some days are better than others. I am now > working with him on sit/stay when I come in the door (as he is usually excited to no end). I have > never owned a dog that jumped up. I have started carrying goodies to work with me so that > when I get home, I get him in the sit stay and reward him. Why is it some dogs in a litter are > calm/laid back and others wide open? Thanks for any info.
Response:
>My dog is now 10 months old and is still jumping up. I have really worked
on the sit stay, when >someone comes to my door he just goes nuts. Some days are better than others. I am now >working with him on sit/stay when I come in the door (as he is usually
excited to no end). I have >never owned a dog that jumped up. I have started carrying goodies to work with me so that >when I get home, I get him in the sit stay and reward him. Why is it some
dogs in a litter are >calm/laid back and others wide open
There is something you are someone else is doing to get the dog to do this. Dogs aren’t very good at deciding when to play and when not to play. Do you play with your dog? What kind of games do you play. Are there any games that cause the dog to become even the slightest bit excited — if the answer is yes to that — then there’s your answer — that’s where you start to work at changing the behaviour. If the answer is no then the game is being played ( it doesn’t matter whether you think it is a game – it’s what the dog thinks that matters) when the visitors arrive. Oh better not to give food ( I guess that’s what the goodies are) as the reward– obvious isn’t it! If it isn’t obvious then that’s probably why you have the behaviour. Regards David Regards David – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
>There are a number of solutions for this problem, but without knowing what
kind of dog you have (the >breed) and what kind of character he has (whether he is more the dominant
or the submissive type What’s dominance / submissiveness got to do with this behaviour?
Response:
: My dog is now 10 months old and is still jumping up. I have really worked on the sit stay, when : someone comes to my door he just goes nuts. Some days are better than others. I am now : working with him on sit/stay when I come in the door (as he is usually excited to no end). I have : never owned a dog that jumped up. I have started carrying goodies to work with me so that : when I get home, I get him in the sit stay and reward him. Here’s a pretty effective technique… Have a training party. One weekend, schedule a bunch of your friends to come over at intervals throughout the day. Put your dog on a leash and let him drag it around. When the first friend comes and knocks on the door, hold onto the leash, and tell your friend to come in. You should stand back from the door at a point where, at the end of the leash, your dog is a couple feet away from the door (let him have the full length of the leash). When your friend comes in, she should approach your dog and then, when the dog jumps, back *just* out of his reach so he can’t jump on him/her. *Quietly* tell your dog to sit, and then just wait him out. You and your friend should stand there quietly, completely ignoring the dog, until he sits. Then your friend can move up to him, kneel down to your dog’s level, and pet your dog, quietly telling him he’s a good dog. If he starts to jump up, your friend should move out of the way and just stand there again until the dog sits again. Now have your friend walk out the door, wait a minute, then knock (or ring the bell) again. Repeat the same process. Do this over and over again until the dog is bored and basically ignores the visitor. When this happens, wait 15 or so minutes, and bring on the next visitor, then the next, then the next. Repeat the whole process each time until your dog gets bored with the current visitor – then bring on the next. With each new visitor, it’ll take less and less time for your dog to figure out what he’s supposed to do. Eventually, he’s going to sit automatically when someone comes in the door. You might get him there in one day, or it might take a few sessions like this to get him there, but eventually he’s going to learn that the only way he gets attention is by sitting. This method *is* time-intensive, and you need to be able to find some good friends who are willing to help you, but if you can do it, it works really well. : Why is it some dogs in a litter are : calm/laid back and others wide open? Thanks for any info. Why is it some kids are calm/laid back and their siblings are "wide open"? Dogs are individuals, just like kids. April with Levi and Caper, the Border Collie Hurricanes
Response:
>My dog is now 10 months old and is still jumping up. I have really worked on the sit stay, when >someone comes to my door he just goes nuts. Some days are better than others. I am now >working with him on sit/stay when I come in the door (as he is usually excited to no end). I have >never owned a dog that jumped up. I have started carrying goodies to work with me so that >when I get home, I get him in the sit stay and reward him. Why is it some dogs in a litter are >calm/laid back and others wide open? Thanks for any info.
Here’s a bit of advise from an owner of one German Shepard and two Dorberman Pinchers. When the dog jumps up, knee em right in the chest. Not hard, unless it persists, but after a while the dog should get the message. Follow that up with 10-15 min of instructional training. ( sit, sit stay etc…) Be sure to do this training in the morning and then at night. Nothing rigorous make it fun, use a ball for teaching the sit and sit stay position. good luck mike
Response:
> Here’s a bit of advise from an owner of one German Shepard and two > Dorberman Pinchers. When the dog jumps up, knee em right in the > chest. Not hard, unless it persists, but after a while the dog should > get the message. Follow that up with 10-15 min of instructional > training. ( sit, sit stay etc…) Be sure to do this training in the > morning and then at night. Nothing rigorous make it fun, use a ball > for teaching the sit and sit stay position. good luck > mike
To add to this (good) advice: with the knee say loudly "NO!". Once all four paws hit the floor – praise. Repeat as necessary. I was told by our trainer that dogs jump up to be near your face and get attention. If you give them the attention they want while all four feet are floorbound, they will not feel quite so urgent a need to jump. It’s working so far on our Guinness, champion jumper. -Shannon This is an email account shared by Joseph Avin and Shannon Larkin. Please specify the recipient in the subject area of the message. Also – if you want to reply, you need to remove the anti-spam.
Response:
Here’s an idea: When your dog next jumps on you, take hold of both paws. Don’t squeeze them but hold them steady. You dog will start struggling to get down. Just keep holding them. I usually hold them for about one minute. Then release. Keep this up whenever he jumps. I have used this practice on all of the dogs that I have trained and the most it has taken is 4 time. Good luck, Julie
Response:
Sorry, but that advice is not exactly good. There are things you can do, like teaching a sit, teaching the dog that all four paws must be on the ground for petting, and one other little trick that I have used when Haver would attempt to jump up without invitation: I’d hold his paws, sing a verse or two of "Shall We Dance?" and dance with him. Of course, it helps when you have a dog who is almost as tall as you are when he stands up. (I also suspect that Shomer may have stopped jumping up without invitation to avoid the sound of my singing, not exactly operatic quality.) Give the SIT command frequently, not just during training period. (Real world education of a dog means that you train at many moments during the day.) Incidentally, you can have a dog who will not jump up without invitation, and yet have a dog who will jump up and place his paws over your shoulders WHEN YOU INVITE HIM TO DO SO. Very often, putting an otherwise undesirable behavior on command results in that behavior not being displayed without the command. Avrama & Shomer
SJ> SJ> > Here’s a bit of advise from an owner of one German Shepard and two SJ> > Dorberman Pinchers. When the dog jumps up, knee em right in the SJ> > chest. Not hard, unless it persists, but after a while the dog should SJ> > get the message. Follow that up with 10-15 min of instructional SJ> > training. ( sit, sit stay etc…) Be sure to do this training in the SJ> > morning and then at night. Nothing rigorous make it fun, use a ball SJ> > for teaching the sit and sit stay position. good luck SJ> > mike SJ> SJ> To add to this (good) advice: with the knee say loudly "NO!". Once all SJ> four paws hit the floor – praise. Repeat as necessary. I was told by SJ> our trainer that dogs jump up to be near your face and get attention. If SJ> you give them the attention they want while all four feet are floorbound, SJ> they will not feel quite so urgent a need to jump. It’s working so far SJ> on our Guinness, champion jumper. SJ> SJ> -Shannon SJ> This is an email account shared by Joseph Avin and Shannon Larkin. SJ> Please specify the recipient in the subject area of the message. SJ> Also – if you want to reply, you need to remove the anti-spam. SJ> .. nfx v2.7 [C0000] "Nature teaches beasts to know their friends."
Response:
It’s not necessarily bad advice (knee in the chest); I’ve read it in several reputable places. Every dog needs a different approach. Of course, you don’t want to do it HARD, just use it as a block against which they determine the force, to let them know that you will not let them hurl themselves against you. My 2 cents: consider the possibility that there might be someone that you let into your house who allows, or even encourages, this behavior. If so, you have a long, hard road in front of you as your dog tries to figure out why it sometimes seems OK and sometimes not. It would be far easier to talk to the people who might be less consistent in their training than you are than to make the distinction clear to your dog. If there is no one allowing this behavior, I agree that the "four on the floor" rule before petting, the enforced sit (though this might be unrealistic to expect as coming-home behavior right off the bat…IMHO, the jumping up will have to be dealt with simultaneously), and, if necessary, the knee in the chest should work. If you don’t see results from that within 2 weeks or so, I’d enroll in a local training class, which are quite reasonably priced (and fun) at places like PetSmart. Also, you might want to try putting him on leash and bringing him to the door when a new person comes in, standing on the leash so that he _can’t_ jump up on them (using a flat collar only), while enforcing the "sit" and/or "four on the floor" rules. Finally, I find that if I take this really seriously and let out a thunderous "NO!" (like the kind you’d give if he did something far more egregious) will normally stop our wild one in his tracks. (I try not to overuse the Thunderous No, so that he doesn’t get jaded to it, but if he has a really bad habit, I would resort to it.) As always, of course, consistency is the most important factor. Best of luck. -Stacey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Sorry, but that advice is not exactly good. There are > things you can do, like teaching a sit, teaching the dog > that all four paws must be on the ground for petting, > and one other little trick that I have used when Haver > would attempt to jump up without invitation: I’d hold > his paws, sing a verse or two of "Shall We Dance?" and > dance with him. Of course, it helps when you have a > dog who is almost as tall as you are when he stands up. > (I also suspect that Shomer may have stopped jumping > up without invitation to avoid the sound of my singing, > not exactly operatic quality.) > Give the SIT command frequently, not just during training > period. (Real world education of a dog means that you > train at many moments during the day.) > Incidentally, you can have a dog who will not jump up > without invitation, and yet have a dog who will jump > up and place his paws over your shoulders WHEN YOU > INVITE HIM TO DO SO. Very often, putting an otherwise > undesirable behavior on command results in that behavior > not being displayed without the command. > Avrama & Shomer > SJ> > SJ> > Here’s a bit of advise from an owner of one German Shepard and two > SJ> > Dorberman Pinchers. When the dog jumps up, knee em right in the > SJ> > chest. Not hard, unless it persists, but after a while the dog should > SJ> > get the message. Follow that up with 10-15 min of instructional > SJ> > training. ( sit, sit stay etc…) Be sure to do this training in the > SJ> > morning and then at night. Nothing rigorous make it fun, use a ball > SJ> > for teaching the sit and sit stay position. good luck > SJ> > mike > SJ> > SJ> To add to this (good) advice: with the knee say loudly "NO!". Once all > SJ> four paws hit the floor – praise. Repeat as necessary. I was told by > SJ> our trainer that dogs jump up to be near your face and get attention. If > SJ> you give them the attention they want while all four feet are floorbound, > SJ> they will not feel quite so urgent a need to jump. It’s working so far > SJ> on our Guinness, champion jumper. > SJ> > SJ> -Shannon > SJ> This is an email account shared by Joseph Avin and Shannon Larkin. > SJ> Please specify the recipient in the subject area of the message. > SJ> Also – if you want to reply, you need to remove the anti-spam. > SJ> > .. nfx v2.7 [C0000] "Nature teaches beasts to know their friends."
Response:
>< I’d enroll >in a local training class, which are quite reasonably priced (and fun) at >places >like PetSmart.> >Question – is this the place that takes minimum wage stock clerks, sends them >home with a book and a tape, and voi’la, tomorrow they’re an obedience trainer?
Yes. Acually, there are two videos, and you aren’t allowed to take them home. You have to watch them in the break room. Then you take a written test, and THEN you are a trainer. :-P~ Denna Lasik former Petsfart employee http://www.breeders.com/dmn/gooddog/page18.htm <–this isn’t my site, but it’s a good one. "Intelligence is like a river; the deeper it runs, the less noise it makes." Please remove "NOSPAM" from address before replying.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I had a great experience with the location I went to, and we had a >trainer-in-training in our course, too — a woman who had years of experience >breeding and showing Standard Poodles. She agility-trained her own dogs, but had >no experience teaching, and so was not yet allowed to teach a course of her own >there. She brought one of her dogs, though, and he was most impressively behaved >throughout. As with all things, of course, YMMV. Use your common sense…if you >don’t get a good feeling about the instructor you get, of course, change your >enrollment. I’m sure that PetSmart, along with every other place in the world that >trains, including more "serious," specialized places, have some staff that are >better than others, and I’m sure that the quality of instructors who teach at >chains that offer casual, basic training varies with the quality of individual >store management, but I think you’re being rather disingenuous and abrasive. >I wouldn’t recommend PetSmart for someone who had a dog with a _dangerous_ habit, >though, I will say, but that wasn’t the case here.
I’m sure there are SOME good petsfart trainers, and some management teams are surely more conscienteous than the management where I worked for two years. However, the CORPORATE standard requires no previous experience with dogs; any employee can watch the videos, take the written test, and be declared a certified trainer. If the trainers at your local store are required to have experience, it was the store manager who set the higher standard, and it’s by no means the norm. Denna Lasik -former petsfart employee http://www.breeders.com/dmn/gooddog/page18.htm <–this isn’t my site, but it’s a good one. "Intelligence is like a river; the deeper it runs, the less noise it makes." Please remove "NOSPAM" from address before replying.
Response:
I had a great experience with the location I went to, and we had a trainer-in-training in our course, too — a woman who had years of experience breeding and showing Standard Poodles. She agility-trained her own dogs, but had no experience teaching, and so was not yet allowed to teach a course of her own there. She brought one of her dogs, though, and he was most impressively behaved throughout. As with all things, of course, YMMV. Use your common sense…if you don’t get a good feeling about the instructor you get, of course, change your enrollment. I’m sure that PetSmart, along with every other place in the world that trains, including more "serious," specialized places, have some staff that are better than others, and I’m sure that the quality of instructors who teach at chains that offer casual, basic training varies with the quality of individual store management, but I think you’re being rather disingenuous and abrasive. I wouldn’t recommend PetSmart for someone who had a dog with a _dangerous_ habit, though, I will say, but that wasn’t the case here. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > < I’d enroll > in a local training class, which are quite reasonably priced (and fun) at > places > like PetSmart.> > Question – is this the place that takes minimum wage stock clerks, sends them > home with a book and a tape, and voi’la, tomorrow they’re an obedience trainer?
Response:
< I’d enroll in a local training class, which are quite reasonably priced (and fun) at places like PetSmart.> Question – is this the place that takes minimum wage stock clerks, sends them home with a book and a tape, and voi’la, tomorrow they’re an obedience trainer?
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