Question:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Lisa, > Crating a dog is often successful. Dogs like dens and will attempt to > ‘hold it’ so they won’t go in their space. It’s also gives them a > sense of security. I treat my dog every time she goes in her crate. > That way, the crate is a happy place, not a punishment. My dog has > separation anxiety and toilets almost as soon as I walk out the door > — even if it’s only for a minute. > The other thing your sister can do is pick up the poop and bring it > outside to the designated area. Show this to the dog and let her > associate that particular area with the appropriate place to toilet. > And always praise when the dog goes in the right spot. A phone > operator at Iams told me this. You may want to give them a call if you > need more info. The 800 number’s on the back of the bag.
There is a WEB site with some housetraining info at: <http://www.forpaws.org/articles/housetraining.htm> —
Response:
Lisa, Crating a dog is often successful. Dogs like dens and will attempt to ‘hold it’ so they won’t go in their space. It’s also gives them a sense of security. I treat my dog every time she goes in her crate. That way, the crate is a happy place, not a punishment. My dog has separation anxiety and toilets almost as soon as I walk out the door — even if it’s only for a minute. The other thing your sister can do is pick up the poop and bring it outside to the designated area. Show this to the dog and let her associate that particular area with the appropriate place to toilet. And always praise when the dog goes in the right spot. A phone operator at Iams told me this. You may want to give them a call if you need more info. The 800 number’s on the back of the bag.
Response:
Well, defecating for a dog in the house can say at least 3 things for the owner: a. there is no real link between the meal hours and the go-out hours (normally a dog will digest his/her meal in around 6 hours from the intake) so you must coordinate the meals with the go out – lets say around 8 h from the meal the dog must go on a walk; b. the change in both quantity and quality of the food changed too much for the dog (better food, more food different food); c. the dog wants to make a point – say something In all cases you must reprimand the dog quite vigurousely, teaching him/her that he/she had done a bad /bad/ thing. Dry food is normally good to give them in order not to poop too much; i would go for some brand that packs alot in small quantities; also age can do with that. Hope that will get corrected Dan Have you read your koehler today? See housebreaking below… Here’s a little "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING," according to lyingdogDUMMY, lying"I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn, professor lyingdoc dermer, professora "chin cuff DEFINITELY doesn’t mean SLAP the dog" gingold, lyingfrosty "Get a stick 30"- 40" long and REPEAT VARYING HOWE HARD YOU HIT THE DOG" dahl, susan fraser, cindymooreon, and most of our Gang Of Thugs: "The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. "Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you’re not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction. "Housebreaking Problems": Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him."
Response:
Well, defecating for a dog in the house can say at least 3 things for the owner: a. there is no real link between the meal hours and the go-out hours (normally a dog will digest his/her meal in around 6 hours from the intake) so you must coordinate the meals with the go out – lets say around 8 h from the meal the dog must go on a walk; This I believe is happening – again, it’s not my dog, I will double check. b. the change in both quantity and quality of the food changed too much for the dog (better food, more food different food); The food has changed – she was on the streets, eating garbage, she’s now eating Nutro c. the dog wants to make a point – say something In all cases you must reprimand the dog quite vigurousely, teaching him/her that he/she had done a bad /bad/ thing. Dry food is normally good to give them in order not to poop too much; i would go for some brand that packs alot in small quantities; also age can do with that. She is doing Nutro dry only.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My sister found a dog last week. She appears to be pretty housebroken – > after a few accidents, she is urinating exclusively outside. She had a few > days of loose stools. She tried a bland diet of chicken and rice, but it > didn’t work, so the vet prescribed something (I don’t know what) which fixed > that. However, she will only defecate in the house. At first, my sister > thought it was the time of day (it was happening between 10-midnight), so > she stayed up last night and walked her at 1am. It happened before she got > up this morning. It’s always in the same spot – she works in a hospital and > is putting chux pads there to protect the floor, but I’m sure there is some > smell there. Again, she is not urinating, just defecating, and the stool is > normal. Any way to train her not to do this? She has a prospective home > for her, but she should have this corrected first. Thanks in advance. I > apologize for the cross posts, but didn’t see anything specific to this > problem when I looked, so I figured I would post in multiple places to be > safe.
Dear Lisa It maybe that the dog is not used to going out on a leash to do the toilet. I suggest that you try and find a secure paddock area to let the dog off and see if that works or it maybe that your sister is not taking the dog to the right kind of area, many dogs like to go to the toilet in long or rough grassy areas and often turn their backs to their owners to do the toilet. Good Luck Cathy Tolhurst
Response:
My sister found a dog last week. She appears to be pretty housebroken – after a few accidents, she is urinating exclusively outside. She had a few days of loose stools. She tried a bland diet of chicken and rice, but it didn’t work, so the vet prescribed something (I don’t know what) which fixed that. However, she will only defecate in the house. At first, my sister thought it was the time of day (it was happening between 10-midnight), so she stayed up last night and walked her at 1am. It happened before she got up this morning. It’s always in the same spot – she works in a hospital and is putting chux pads there to protect the floor, but I’m sure there is some smell there. Again, she is not urinating, just defecating, and the stool is normal. Any way to train her not to do this? She has a prospective home for her, but she should have this corrected first. Thanks in advance. I apologize for the cross posts, but didn’t see anything specific to this problem when I looked, so I figured I would post in multiple places to be safe.
Response:
This reminds me of my dog I lost in July. He was originally a foster and I believe was abused as a puppy, I took him in when he was around 6 mos. It was apparent he was afraid to do his business with anyone watching. He was literally afraid to poop. We had to stay outside with him for a long time when we thought he’d have to go, and when he’d start to position himself we’d praise him like mad. Whether inside or out, at first when he’d start to squat if we saw him, he’d stop. We had to act like we weren’t paying any attention to him so he didn’t think we’d see him.It was pretty bizarre. Once he was successful and we praised him the problem was corrected in no time. Good luck. Debbie
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