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Question:

Hello everyone, Can someone help?  We have recently taken in a rescued LabX puppy who is now around 5 months old.  He has settled in marvellously with our older Basenji bitch and FIVE rescued elderly cats – no problems ,  EXCEPT,  that he will ‘ clean-up ‘ YUCK!  after the cats if we don’t get there first. Will he grow out of this? – he is such a great dog in every other way – any suggestions would be grateful of any ideas. Thanks Betty Smith

Response:

> Hello everyone, > Can someone help?  We have recently taken in a rescued LabX puppy who is now > around 5 months old.  He has settled in marvellously with our older Basenji > bitch and FIVE rescued elderly cats – no problems ,  EXCEPT,  that he will > ‘ clean-up ‘ YUCK!  after the cats if we don’t get there first.

    Well, ‘kitty roca’ is SUCH a tasty treat for most all dogs.     You can do all sorts of things, to keep him away. Place it on top of something that the dogs can’t get to but the cats can, put a baby gate in a doorway to the room you keep the litter box, get a top for the litter box, and turn it toward the wall, you get the idea….     Of you can try and train him to not go there at all. You can watch for him going near it, and call to him, distract him somehow, and if he comes to you, or just doesn’t go near the box, praise praise praise. This one is a bit longer, and more work on your part. And if you’re not home to watch, they usually will go back to the deed again.     Most ppl just opt for the easier quicker way, to put the box out of reach. One thing you need to take into account, if he is ingesting kitty LITTER, along with the ‘treats’, it can make him very ill, and cause major intestinal problems. I’m sure others will answer, also.     When I still had Sadie, a tortie cat, we got Rudy an 8 week old GR. We opted to put the litter box out on back enclosed porch, and she had access to it thru one of our bedroom windows. But we had done this *before* the pup came to us. Worked great for us, as I really really really HATE to clean up litter boxes. (My ex-hub did so. I cleaned up after the dog….worked great. <G>) All the best, MaryBeth

Response:

>SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE >Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any >behavior.

Only if the dog is dumber than the person using the technique. >The problem is that not many people understand how to use the >sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not >know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the >sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these >methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured >that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not >"try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come >command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at >addressing the problem can begin.

It fails because you are dealing with a smart dog. >Those problems >may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no >excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t >they are a scientific fact.

Elf scientific research huh. >Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same >each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the >hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by >praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession >from the same point of origin.

So after snapping your fingers once you shove your hand up your ass so the dog doesn’t know where the sound is coming from the next time huh. >That’s why several penny cans >are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two >occasions in succession.

Ummmm, the dogs must chew them to pieces. >The sound must always be >accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the >same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be >brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and >PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not >intended for them. When more than one dog is present when >using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present >must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will >UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must >continue constantly for several seconds following any sound >cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior >must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using >sound and praise until the behavior is broken.

Or the walls in your house are full of holes from throwing all those soda cans around. >That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if >you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections >will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be >extinguished.

So now the dog is a psychotic who is hearing things huh.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Elizabeth, > Beware of Jerry Howe. > Jerry Howe is ONLY here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training > device. > That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" > offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. > (An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a > review at: > If Jerry were an honest person he would post a genuine link to the "free > training  manual" & not try to scam every new person on the newsgroup. > Unfortunately he refuses to do so and, as you can see by his posts, > viciously attacks & slanders anyone who disagrees with him in any way. > Just today, 12/7, Jerry Howe encouraged a poster in this very newsgroup, > & I quote: > " P.S. Take a couple of Tylenol with cyaninde. " > EdW > http://Petloss.com

Hello ed, You are a liar, a beggar, and a mental case. YOU are a bona-fide IDIOT, Your words, silvertonguEd: "jer, You really ARE an obnoxious, petty, self-important, lying piece of smegma!" EdW Nice talk for a family news group…, huh? Here’s more of your words, you sleazy, lying, beggar: "Your help is now needed to support this website. Since it began as a simple homepage in the Spring of 1993, Petloss.com has grown to become the most visited pet loss grief support site on the web. The hours required every day to maintain the website’s resources & services have escalated so dramatically in the last year that I finally had to make a choice between my regular job & the website. I have chosen the website.  To keep up the current level of support and continue to increase the website’s ability to help others, I recently gave up my job and made this website my full-time occupation. For this to work, I must ask for financial support from those of you who believe in this website’s mission and want to be a part of it. Your donations & the Rainbow Bridge Prints are now my only source of income. Please help with any amount you can, payable to "Petloss.com". All donations are greatly appreciated." Send to: Petloss.com Ed Williams P. O. Box 517 Roseland, NJ 07608 Any donation of $50 or more will receive a beautiful laminated Rainbow Bridge Print as my way of saying "Thanks". And THANK YOU ed, we APPRECIATE  ALL your HELP. Some of our people are afraid of what I have to say, and are forging my posts to get everyone to killfile me. There are at least two imposters posting as Jerry Howe. However, in the best interest of our readers and their dogs, those I have labeled as Gang Of Thugs members like cindymoron, or liars, like lynn kosmakos or amy dahl, MUST be relentlessly pursued till their information is improved, or until they are thoroughly discredited and ridiculed off of  the board..

 Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you  twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure. LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears. I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive."  RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, it means slap.  amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog," ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance.>>> "but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch>>> You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb;>>> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that>>> Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.>>> if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house- breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re … read more »

Response:

C’mon lyingdogDUMMY. You can do better than that. Jerry. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE >Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any >behavior. > Only if the dog is dumber than the person using the technique. >The problem is that not many people understand how to use the >sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not >know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the >sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these >methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured >that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not >"try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come >command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at >addressing the problem can begin. > It fails because you are dealing with a smart dog. >Those problems >may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no >excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t >they are a scientific fact. > Elf scientific research huh. >Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same >each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the >hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by >praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession >from the same point of origin. > So after snapping your fingers once you shove your hand up your ass so > the dog doesn’t know where the sound is coming from the next time huh. >That’s why several penny cans >are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two >occasions in succession. > Ummmm, the dogs must chew them to pieces. >The sound must always be >accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the >same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be >brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and >PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not >intended for them. When more than one dog is present when >using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present >must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will >UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must >continue constantly for several seconds following any sound >cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior >must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using >sound and praise until the behavior is broken. > Or the walls in your house are full of holes from throwing all those > soda cans around. >That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if >you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections >will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be >extinguished. > So now the dog is a psychotic who is hearing things huh.

Response:

>C’mon lyingdogDUMMY. You can do better than that. Jerry.

Response:

Hello mb, If you knew anything about this behavior problem, your own dogs wouldn’t eat FRESH POO before it hits the ground… As for addressing a problem when your not there, well, that’s all covered in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com Enjoy! Jerry. j;~}

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Can someone help?  We have recently taken in a rescued LabX puppy who is > now > around 5 months old.  He has settled in marvellously with our older > Basenji > bitch and FIVE rescued elderly cats – no problems ,  EXCEPT,  that he will > ‘ clean-up ‘ YUCK!  after the cats if we don’t get there first. >     Well, ‘kitty roca’ is SUCH a tasty treat for most all dogs. >     You can do all sorts of things, to keep him away. Place it on top of > something that the dogs can’t get to but the cats can, put a baby gate in a > doorway to the room you keep the litter box, get a top for the litter box, > and turn it toward the wall, you get the idea…. >     Of you can try and train him to not go there at all. You can watch for > him going near it, and call to him, distract him somehow, and if he comes to > you, or just doesn’t go near the box, praise praise praise. This one is a > bit longer, and more work on your part. And if you’re not home to watch, > they usually will go back to the deed again. >     Most ppl just opt for the easier quicker way, to put the box out of > reach. One thing you need to take into account, if he is ingesting kitty > LITTER, along with the ‘treats’, it can make him very ill, and cause major > intestinal problems. I’m sure others will answer, also. >     When I still had Sadie, a tortie cat, we got Rudy an 8 week old GR. We > opted to put the litter box out on back enclosed porch, and she had access > to it thru one of our bedroom windows. But we had done this *before* the pup > came to us. Worked great for us, as I really really really HATE to clean up > litter boxes. (My ex-hub did so. I cleaned up after the dog….worked great. > <G>) > All the best, > MaryBeth

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Can someone help?  We have recently taken in a rescued LabX puppy who is now > around 5 months old.  He has settled in marvellously with our older Basenji > bitch and FIVE rescued elderly cats – no problems ,  EXCEPT,  that he will > ‘ clean-up ‘ YUCK!  after the cats if we don’t get there first. > Will he grow out of this? – he is such a great dog in every other way – any > suggestions > would be grateful of any ideas. > Thanks Betty Smith

Response:

SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his idle mind from doing the devils work. Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe- – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello everyone, > Can someone help?  We have recently taken in a rescued LabX puppy who is now > around 5 months old.  He has settled in marvellously with our older Basenji > bitch and FIVE rescued elderly cats – no problems ,  EXCEPT,  that he will > ‘ clean-up ‘ YUCK!  after the cats if we don’t get there first. > Will he grow out of this? – he is such a great dog in every other way – any > suggestions > would be grateful of

… read more »

Response:

Elizabeth, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is ONLY here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If Jerry were an honest person he would post a genuine link to the "free training  manual" & not try to scam every new person on the newsgroup. Unfortunately he refuses to do so and, as you can see by his posts, viciously attacks & slanders anyone who disagrees with him in any way. Just today, 12/7, Jerry Howe encouraged a poster in this very newsgroup, & I quote: " P.S. Take a couple of Tylenol with cyaninde. " EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

> >C’mon lyingdogDUMMY. You can do better than that. Jerry.

An anonymous, lying, dog abusing, coward. See? That fits your descritption to a T. Jerry. j;~}

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