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Question:

At least he doesn’t eat his own poop, like my ShihTzus do!  Argggggg! Lu

Response:

>Yeah. That could kill him, big time.

Like spiking and squirting uh shit for brains >HERE’S HOWE: >Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush >the sides so it’s square.

Then throw the fucking things all over the place and scare the shit out of the dog.

Response:

Gary, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is only here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: jerry could easily post the correct link but he refuses to do so and, as you will see by his posts, viciously attacks & slanders anyone who disagrees with his dishonest tactics. EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

Hello Gary, > My 18 month old male Mastiff loves to eat socks,towels,oven mitts > etc…Sometimes he vomits them up or thank god they pass…

Yeah. That could kill him, big time. > We try and keep most things out of his reach but sometimes he just gets > something…The items are never chewed…I’m well aware of the possible > dangers but wonder if anyone has been successful in modifying this > behavior…Any ideas would be helpful…GG

You’ve got to teach him not to take anything he’s not supposed to have. You can easily do that using sound distracton and praise techniques. Set him up so he’ll be interested in various articles you leave available to him (without implying it’s O.K. to take, or that they’re for him), while you’re available to supervise and interrupt his action of taking them. Using sound distraction and praise techniques will break the problem in one or two days in most cases. If  he won’t do the dirty deed in front of you, the technique is a little different. The full technique is below the methods for addressing the behavior when you are not able to "catch him in the act." HERE’S HOWE: When sound is used after the fact of an incident, just present the sound casually, at the site he had been "doing it." That too, might be difficult for you to determine, if he’s not willing to engage in that behavior in your presence. But you can tell if the dog has been up on the couch, or has eaten poo or got into the trash, just use the technique on any items he may be getting involved with that you’d prefer he didn’t. Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush the sides so it’s square. Be sure to keep the can silent until it is CASUALLY dropped at the site of an infraction, or potential problem, a couch, stool, a fence, etc.  As you walk through the house or  yard with him nearby, glance at a stool on the ground, the fence or couch, or trash can, or counter or table, and say "what’s that?" as you drop the can, and continue about the yard. Do not retrieve the can in his presence. Repeat this procedure using four cans, and four different stools, fence areas, couches, tables, beds, etc. HERE"S A HINT: try NOT to drop it right IN the stool, next to it will be adequate. SAY NOTHING AFTER YOU DO THIS. When he looks at a stool on the ground, or the couch, fence, table, trash bin, whatever…, and looks up at you, that REQUIRES that you praise him, because he likely understands there’s something inappropriate with the idea of picking up stools from the ground, or messing on the floor, or getting on the couch, or taking food from the table, etc. You should repeat this procedure for several days in succession, and then every other day for several more days. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the … read more »

Response:

Sounds like the name of a band… Mastiff Eats Material. I’ve heard of this before.  This is a compulsive behavior, something like obsessive/compulsive behavior in humans.  This is a self destructive behavior probably the result of inbreeding. What happens is these dogs eat weird things, and have to go into the hospital for stomach operations to remove said objects.  Eventually, they jam up and die.  You can only open them up so many times.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 18 month old male Mastiff loves to eat socks,towels,oven mitts > etc…Sometimes he vomits them up or thank god they pass…We try and > keep most things out of his reach but sometimes he just gets > something…The items are never chewed…I’m well aware of the possible > dangers but wonder if anyone has been successful in modifying this > behavior…Any ideas would be helpful…GG

Response:

My 18 month old male Mastiff loves to eat socks,towels,oven mitts etc…Sometimes he vomits them up or thank god they pass…We try and keep most things out of his reach but sometimes he just gets something…The items are never chewed…I’m well aware of the possible dangers but wonder if anyone has been successful in modifying this behavior…Any ideas would be helpful…GG

Response: