Consumer Homes.

Question:

I am writing this on behalf of a friend who has a Hungarian 2 year old female Puli, who is oh so friendly and affectionate, but is driving my friend’s neighbors crazy with her high pitched or shrill barking which is only a result of trying to "communicate" with her master to throw the ball or get my reluctant dog to play. The dog does not bark constantly when she is alone. He tried using commands first and later closed her jaw gently with his hands. She stopped only when he put her in the closed back porch, but started again for the same reasons,when let out, as before, looking for attention. One of the neighbors called the local security and he and others have continually harassed him with unpleasant remarks, everytime the dog barked. The dog is really sweet and he has to endure his neighbors’ wrath, who are not dog lovers or who have dogs, that do not bark as frequently as the Puli, who is a herder, by breed. Has anybody had a Puli or a other breed with the same behaviourial problems? If so, how did you stop the the barking without taking drastic measures? — Roger (Pumpsie) Before you buy.

Response:

.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am writing this on behalf of a friend who has a Hungarian 2 year old > female Puli, who is oh so friendly and affectionate, but is driving my > friend’s neighbors crazy with her high pitched or shrill barking which > is only a result of trying to "communicate" with her master to throw > the ball or get my reluctant dog to play. The dog does not bark > constantly when she is alone. > He tried using commands first and later closed her jaw gently with his > hands. She stopped only when he put her in the closed back porch, but > started again for the same reasons,when let out, as before, looking for > attention. > One of the neighbors called the local security and he and others have > continually harassed him with unpleasant remarks, everytime the dog > barked. The dog is really sweet and he has to endure his neighbors’ > wrath, who are not dog lovers or who have dogs, that do not bark as > frequently as the Puli, who is a herder, by breed. > Has anybody had a Puli or a other breed with the same behaviourial > problems? If so, how did you stop the the barking without taking > drastic measures? > Roger (Pumpsie)

Hello Roger, You can easily break the habit using sound distraction and praise techniques. SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE TECHNIQUE Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present while using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his idle mind from doing the devils work. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com BEWARE the warnings offered to you from our rpdb Gang Of Thugs regarding my posts and the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. You cannot trust your dog’s well being to people who tell you to killfile my advice… and tell you to punish, confine, and confront your dog’s behavior problems. Our Gang Of Thugs are easily identifiable by their warnings about my posts, and their killfile instructions to prevent me from EXPOSING THEM as the vicious, abusive, cretins they are, AND WANT YOU TO BE. "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and … read more »

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am writing this on behalf of a friend who has a Hungarian 2 year old > female Puli, who is oh so friendly and affectionate, but is driving my > friend’s neighbors crazy with her high pitched or shrill barking which > is only a result of trying to "communicate" with her master to throw > the ball or get my reluctant dog to play. The dog does not bark > constantly when she is alone. > He tried using commands first and later closed her jaw gently with his > hands. She stopped only when he put her in the closed back porch, but > started again for the same reasons,when let out, as before, looking for > attention. > One of the neighbors called the local security and he and others have > continually harassed him with unpleasant remarks, everytime the dog > barked. The dog is really sweet and he has to endure his neighbors’ > wrath, who are not dog lovers or who have dogs, that do not bark as > frequently as the Puli, who is a herder, by breed. > Has anybody had a Puli or a other breed with the same behaviourial > problems? If so, how did you stop the the barking without taking > drastic measures? > Roger (Pumpsie)

Hello Roger, The other advice I gave you really sucked. Here’s what you need to do. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you’re hiding nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be watching and listening for the signs of your actual going. Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a block or two from your house so you can come back and park within earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you’ve returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool the most alert dog. Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you’re not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction. William Koehler "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996 "When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him."

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Roger, > Beware of Jerry Howe. > Jerry Howe is just trying to sell you his dubious $100 electronic > training device. > That is where the link he posted takes you. The free manual offer is the > bait for his "bait & switch" scam. > (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: > If you actually do want jerry’s free manual but DON’T want jerry’s > hard-sell sales pitch, here is a link that really will go to the free > training manual download page: > http://www.doggydoright.com/free_training_manual.htm > jerry could easily post the correct link but he refuses to do so. > He would rather bully & attack those who expose his scam. > EdW > http://Petloss.com

Hello ed, Jerry’s got ANSWERS. You got NUTHIN. You are a liar, a beggar, and a mental case. I’m sure everyone here wants to be helped by you and your fake cyberchapel, especially when you can be counted on to beg and chisel off of grieving people and defend hurting dogs and saying things like: "jer, You really ARE an obnoxious, petty, self-important, lying piece of smegma!" EdW. You insult yourself ed, when you defend hurting dogs to train them… You BEG FOR DONATIONS and try to SELL STUFF. Here’s some REAL help for people with pet loss grief from REAL counselors: http://www.death-dying.com/petloss.htm http://www.realsolutions.org/petloss.htm http://www.news.cornell.edu/general/May97/petloss.hrs.html http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/petloss.htm http://www.newsgazette.com/pets/pettalk.cfm http://www.shiningsouls.com/online.asp http://www.bakersfield.org/spca/1grief.html http://www.tandfdc.com/AD/AD_Books/petloss.htm http://www.griefhealing.com/ The ONLY issue is: WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HURTING DOGS TO TRAIN THEM? Got an answer? Sure you do, YOU ENDORSE IT. Just ANSWER. Say, "I approve of" or  "I do not approve of" HURTING DOGS to train them. It’s REAL SIMPLE STUFF. YOU REFUSE TO COMMENT? JUST SPEAK RIGHT UP PAL… This is what YOU like: Amy Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears.  I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." AND THEN SHE SAYS: " Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it" THAT’S THE EXCITED, HAPPY LOOK THEY SHOW… IT’S TERROR!!! > Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you > twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro

manure. LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog, With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. "Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html While force-fetching is now complete, training has become more varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to continue." HOWE does varying HOWE you are HURTING the dog make it more INTERESTING? You can’t do something that’s WRONG, rignt, NO MATTER HOWE hard you try. Dogs DIE because of inappropriate handling and training techniques. There is NEVER any need to jerk and choke and shock or pinch and twist dog’s body parts or beat dogs with sticks to MOTIVATE them. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and pass it through > the crate door.  Attach a line to it.  When he barks, use the line > for a correction.

lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? BESIDES, WHAT’S SO WRONG being a koehelr trainer, THAT lyinglynn AND CINDYMORON BOTH DENY USING THE KOEHLER METHODS THAT THEY TEACH??? Or is it just that lying is in vogue??? > Lynn K.

You are out of your league, PAL. Jerry j;~} You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com BEWARE the forgeries to confuse you, and the warnings offered to you from our rpdb Gang Of Thugs regarding killfiling my posts and the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. These people are frantic at the thought of not having anymore EXCUSE for being able to jerk, choke, and hurt dogs on pronged, choke, and electronic shock collars. You cannot trust your dog’s well being to people who tell you to killfile my advice…and tell you to punish, confine, and confront your dog’s behavior problems. Our Gang Of Thugs are easily identifiable by their warnings about my posts, and their killfile instructions to prevent me from EXPOSING THEM as the vicious, abusive, cretins they are,AND WANT YOU TO BE, so they don’t look out of sorts. "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

Roger, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is just trying to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posted takes you. The free manual offer is the bait for his "bait & switch" scam. (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If you actually do want jerry’s free manual but DON’T want jerry’s hard-sell sales pitch, here is a link that really will go to the free training manual download page: http://www.doggydoright.com/free_training_manual.htm jerry could easily post the correct link but he refuses to do so. He would rather bully & attack those who expose his scam. EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Roger, > Beware of Jerry Howe. > Jerry Howe is just trying to sell you his dubious $100 electronic > training device. > That is where the link he posted takes you. The free manual offer is the > bait for his "bait & switch" scam. > (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: > If you actually do want jerry’s free manual but DON’T want jerry’s > hard-sell sales pitch, here is a link that really will go to the free > training manual download page: > http://www.doggydoright.com/free_training_manual.htm > jerry could easily post the correct link but he refuses to do so. > He would rather bully & attack those who expose his scam. > EdW > http://Petloss.com

Hello ed, You are a liar, a beggar, and a mental case.    Apr 25, 05:59 PM Margaret Hoffman    Message 1 of 19 Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe I just recently looked at this newsgroup and I found it incredible. I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for about one year. It truly does work – at least on my Dobe, Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him personally work with Chelsea. His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog that you will bully, and I wouldn’t dream of hurting her. After Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture, ate food off the counter, pulled me incessantly on the leash. She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long story and I won’t bore you with all the details, but suffice it to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us. Marge Hoffman P.S. You can send me the reward money, but I won’t sell you my DDR! Another poster with pit bulls and feral cat rescue writes: Hi Jerry, Well, we have been running Doggy Do Right for awhile (3 weeks) now and would appear that it is working. We are still on the lowest setting but my cat aggressive dog is now much calmer with the little fur balls getting near her. Not perfect but much improved! I do think that you need a more universal name as it appears to have drastically cut the spraying problem down that we have with our crowded cat situation. I am going to send an e-mail to Domesti-Cats club, Feral Cat Network and Space Cats Club as a lot of the members have some of the same problems with their cats. It has also lessened the number of nightly cat fights. Thanks, Elaine Hi, Lowest setting to us is when the machine is on the least number of times during the day. We are going to try  putting it on the next setting and see if that will completely solve our problems. We are holding our breath at this point on the spraying and hoping that BIOSOUND continues to work. Will let you know. Yes, feel free to use my post. If you sell to people with cat spray problems though you might want to recommend that they do what we did. We went through the house with BacTerminator an enzyme product that eats the cat urine. We have used Bac T. for a long time and it usually only slows them down for a week or two, so I know it is the BIOSOUND that has created the success we are seeing right now. We were resigned to constant cleaning and even then it was difficult to keep up with. I don’t know if you have forgotten but we have 19 cats. Elaine

Response: