Consumer Homes.

Question:

I have one year old Armstrong tile in my back hallway,My dog has threw up a few times on it in the same spot and now the tile is stained yellow.I have tried many  cleaners including bleach and nothing seems to get the stains out.Anyone know how and what to use to get these stains out ?The tile is Prof. Grade…Many Thanks…

Response:

>I have one year old Armstrong tile in my back hallway,My dog has threw up a >few times on it in the same spot and now the tile is stained yellow.I have >tried many  cleaners including bleach and nothing seems to get the stains >out.Anyone know how and what to use to get these stains out ?The tile is >Prof. Grade…Many Thanks…

Is the yellowing only at the place of the pet stain? I’m asking because Armstrong had some bad vinyl (is yours vinyl?)  that grayed then yellowed soon after installation. They then began making their own cleaner to clean the bad vinyl (which didn’t work either by the way). Our floor yellowed about 6 months after installation. If the cause of your stain is the defective tile, there is nothing I know of to whiten it again–bleach seems to make it worse.

Response:

Let me tell you this. It ISN’T the dog stuff that is yellowing your floor. My Armstrong floor yellowed also  - Letters to Armstrong went un-answered. Letters to the installer indicated it is a known problem with Armstrong. Worst floor I EVER had. I eventually replaced the floor last year with Mannington Laminate flooring – Stuff is GREAT. Keith

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have one year old Armstrong tile in my back hallway,My dog has threw up a > few times on it in the same spot and now the tile is stained yellow.I have > tried many  cleaners including bleach and nothing seems to get the stains > out.Anyone know how and what to use to get these stains out ?The tile is > Prof. Grade…Many Thanks…

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Let me tell you this. It ISN’T the dog stuff that is yellowing your floor. >My Armstrong floor yellowed also  - Letters to Armstrong went un-answered. >Letters to the installer indicated it is a known problem with Armstrong. >Worst floor I EVER had. >I eventually replaced the floor last year with Mannington Laminate >flooring – Stuff is GREAT. >Keith >"iRadioChicago" . > I have one year old Armstrong tile in my back hallway,My dog has threw up >a > few times on it in the same spot and now the tile is stained yellow.I have > tried many  cleaners including bleach and nothing seems to get the stains > out.Anyone know how and what to use to get these stains out ?The tile is > Prof. Grade…Many Thanks…

The problem with Armstrong floors has been jockeyed about the NGs for years but apparantly not recently. Armstrong and its agents do know about the problem but it appears Armstrong is still producing the bad vinyl and still refusing to correct the problem for homeowners. To anyone considering new flooring, be forewarned.

Response:

Wasnt Armstrong on the verge of bankrupcy a year or so ago? Perhaps asbestos litigation?  My bath vinyl floor started turning black 6 months after installation in the most unusual spot, far from any water, and it spread to a patch about 15" round. Nothing touches it, it appears to be below the surface. Rick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Let me tell you this. It ISN’T the dog stuff that is yellowing your floor. >My Armstrong floor yellowed also  - Letters to Armstrong went un-answered. >Letters to the installer indicated it is a known problem with Armstrong. >Worst floor I EVER had. >I eventually replaced the floor last year with Mannington Laminate >flooring – Stuff is GREAT. >Keith >"iRadioChicago" > . >> I have one year old Armstrong tile in my back hallway,My dog has threw up >a >> few times on it in the same spot and now the tile is stained yellow.I have >> tried many  cleaners including bleach and nothing seems to get the stains >> out.Anyone know how and what to use to get these stains out ?The tile is >> Prof. Grade…Many Thanks… > The problem with Armstrong floors has been jockeyed about the NGs for years but > apparantly not recently. Armstrong and its agents do know about the problem but > it appears Armstrong is still producing the bad vinyl and still refusing to > correct the problem for homeowners. To anyone considering new flooring, be > forewarned.

Response:

Question:

I like to use 2nd gear for the same test. Basically, have the engine going about 5000 rpm in 2nd, ease off on the accelerator pedal so that the rpm drops to 3000 rpm, then immediately floor the gas pedal and watch the tachometer. If the tach jumps over 1000rpm before the car begins to accelerate (just after flooring it) then the clutch is going bad. Pars 98 DX Hatch – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would get up to 20 mph. I then put the transmission in 3rd gear. Push the gas > pedal all the way. If the rpm goes up and the car is not get faster, the clutch > is slipping. Try 4th and 5th if 3rd is ok. > While I was teaching my brother and sister how to drive a stick in my 92 CX, I > would yell at them for not moving when the light turned green. They kept telling > me that they couldn’t get in 1st gear. I did not believed them. When I switched > places with them, I couldn’t get in any gear either. I had to sat there for a > minute before I could get into 2nd gear. There was no way to get into 1st. What > happened was that they slipped the clutch too much during gear changes. This > heated the transmission too much, locking out all the gears. > It took a few lessons before I could come up with the cause of gear locking out. > If the engine RPMs can change without the car’s speed changing, with the > clutch fully out, it’s slipping.   This would probably be most noticable > when you try to accellerate in 5th. > A more extreme test is to set the parking brake, put the car in 5th, and let > the clutch out while giving it gas.  A good clutch will stall the engine. > If you can keep the engine going with the clutch out, it’s slipping.  If you > hit a tree, your parking brake is bad.  This is *really* hard on the > clutch, though, so I don’t recommend trying it.

Response:

I would get up to 20 mph. I then put the transmission in 3rd gear. Push the gas pedal all the way. If the rpm goes up and the car is not get faster, the clutch is slipping. Try 4th and 5th if 3rd is ok. While I was teaching my brother and sister how to drive a stick in my 92 CX, I would yell at them for not moving when the light turned green. They kept telling me that they couldn’t get in 1st gear. I did not believed them. When I switched places with them, I couldn’t get in any gear either. I had to sat there for a minute before I could get into 2nd gear. There was no way to get into 1st. What happened was that they slipped the clutch too much during gear changes. This heated the transmission too much, locking out all the gears. It took a few lessons before I could come up with the cause of gear locking out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If the engine RPMs can change without the car’s speed changing, with the > clutch fully out, it’s slipping.   This would probably be most noticable > when you try to accellerate in 5th. > A more extreme test is to set the parking brake, put the car in 5th, and let > the clutch out while giving it gas.  A good clutch will stall the engine. > If you can keep the engine going with the clutch out, it’s slipping.  If you > hit a tree, your parking brake is bad.  This is *really* hard on the > clutch, though, so I don’t recommend trying it.

Response:

> How can I test the clutch to see if it is slipping?

If the engine RPMs can change without the car’s speed changing, with the clutch fully out, it’s slipping.   This would probably be most noticable when you try to accellerate in 5th. A more extreme test is to set the parking brake, put the car in 5th, and let the clutch out while giving it gas.  A good clutch will stall the engine. If you can keep the engine going with the clutch out, it’s slipping.  If you hit a tree, your parking brake is bad.  This is *really* hard on the clutch, though, so I don’t recommend trying it.

Response:

How can I test the clutch to see if it is slipping? Also, I went out for a ride today, and it did it again.  It started doing it again much sooner this time.  I also tried it in neutral, and the engine still hesitated.  Luckily I got back my other car today, so the Honda can sit until I get this one figured out.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like the clutch is burning. If the old clutch slipped a lot, that would > create a lot of heat, and hence, the bad smell. When the transmission is really > hot, there is no way to get in any gear. > Test to see if your clutch is slipping.

Response:

Sounds like the clutch is burning. If the old clutch slipped a lot, that would create a lot of heat, and hence, the bad smell. When the transmission is really hot, there is no way to get in any gear. Test to see if your clutch is slipping. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hopefully someone can help me out.  This just started happening yesterday. > I noticed yesterday while driving after about an hour,  my 92 Civic Si > Hatchback started acting up.  All it did yesterday, was start to give me > problems going into 2nd gear.  I didn’t think much of it, as I am planning > on getting the clutch replaced, along with whatever else it may need when I > do that. (Flywheel, etc.) > This is what started happening today.  After about an hour of driving again, > it started giving me problems going into 2nd gear again, but it is now > hesitating no matter what gear it is in.  I am smelling a burning smell. > The only way I can describe the hesitation is if anyone has had a catalytic > converter clog up on them.  That is sort of what it feels like.  Am I > leaning in the right direction? Anyone else have this sort of problem? > And thanks for all of the info on the short shifter.  That is going on the > back burner for now, until I can figure this problem out that I am having > with the car.  The wife is all bummed out now, since I just got the car > about a month ago.  I told her that this was probably nothing major.  I hope > that my suspicions are right. > Thanks again in advance. > Otsego

Response:

Hopefully someone can help me out.  This just started happening yesterday. I noticed yesterday while driving after about an hour,  my 92 Civic Si Hatchback started acting up.  All it did yesterday, was start to give me problems going into 2nd gear.  I didn’t think much of it, as I am planning on getting the clutch replaced, along with whatever else it may need when I do that. (Flywheel, etc.) This is what started happening today.  After about an hour of driving again, it started giving me problems going into 2nd gear again, but it is now hesitating no matter what gear it is in.  I am smelling a burning smell. The only way I can describe the hesitation is if anyone has had a catalytic converter clog up on them.  That is sort of what it feels like.  Am I leaning in the right direction? Anyone else have this sort of problem? And thanks for all of the info on the short shifter.  That is going on the back burner for now, until I can figure this problem out that I am having with the car.  The wife is all bummed out now, since I just got the car about a month ago.  I told her that this was probably nothing major.  I hope that my suspicions are right. Thanks again in advance. Otsego

Response:

Question:

Yes Great Indoors has 12×24" samples of the heritage flooring at the store. The link I included I think will send you a sample upon request Wayne

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wayne: > Did you actually had one in your hand to look at?  I specifically ordered > squared edge prefinished before from Bamtex and my distributor told me they > carried it.  When it came it came beveled.  I complained and asked them to > replace it, only to find that it does not come squared edge if it is > prefinished.  I then called several other sources for this and they all carred > prefinished beveled only.  It is hard to see it from the image as my floor looks > like that too until you look real close. > If you did find squared edge bamboo planks I would love to get it too.  I am > hopeful about a new house which I will tear out four rooms of carpet. Guess > what I am going to put in? > I would only do the natural light bamboo.  This is what gives the bamboo floor > the "zen" look.  I think the dark variety makes it look like oak and you might > as well get oak then. > Bamboo floor with a picture window looking out to a yard full of giant bamboo > that will be neat! > Sum > I was looking at prefinished bamboo from heritage and their prefinished has > a square edge. they also have a darker bamboo too > http://www.fastfloors.com/heritage_bamboo38_images.htm > I saw a sample at Great Indoors in Colorado and fell in love with it!  I am > waiting to buy a house so I can install it! > Wayne > > Barbara: > > I have installed bamboo flooring in three of my bedrooms and I love it. > > However it is not for everybody.  You have to like the clean and > > minimalistic look of it as it is even lighter than maple. > > I used prefinished bamboo from Bamtex.  It is tongue and groove and I > > installed it on top of concrete floor directly using very good adhesive > > (Franklin). > > The only thing I would suggest is to decide whether you wanted unfinished > or > > prefinished.  Unfinished you can get the square edged pieces and finish it > > yourself over the floor later.  Prefinished pieces are always comes with a > > bevel edge.  This makes a little V notch between each piece and sweep the > > floor clean is a challenge as dust and hair can get trap in between the > > notches. > > The bamboo pieces can be sanded many times, unlike the engineered wood > that > > will only take 2 screening max.  I paid about $12.00 per sf installed two > > years ago. > > I took one piece and soaked it in hot water for 30 minutes and then let > > dry.  The next morning it went back to normal.  No bulge and not warp. I > > think it is much more water resistant than wood. > > I absolutely love it and will do it again if I get to buy my new house. > > Sum > > > I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s experience with bamboo flooring > > > instead of traditional wood.  I see it on HGTV sometimes and it’s said > > > to be cheaper and more imprevious to water than wood. > > > Thanks, > > > Barbara

Response:

Wayne: Did you actually had one in your hand to look at?  I specifically ordered squared edge prefinished before from Bamtex and my distributor told me they carried it.  When it came it came beveled.  I complained and asked them to replace it, only to find that it does not come squared edge if it is prefinished.  I then called several other sources for this and they all carred prefinished beveled only.  It is hard to see it from the image as my floor looks like that too until you look real close. If you did find squared edge bamboo planks I would love to get it too.  I am hopeful about a new house which I will tear out four rooms of carpet.  Guess what I am going to put in? I would only do the natural light bamboo.  This is what gives the bamboo floor the "zen" look.  I think the dark variety makes it look like oak and you might as well get oak then. Bamboo floor with a picture window looking out to a yard full of giant bamboo that will be neat! Sum – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I was looking at prefinished bamboo from heritage and their prefinished has > a square edge. they also have a darker bamboo too > http://www.fastfloors.com/heritage_bamboo38_images.htm > I saw a sample at Great Indoors in Colorado and fell in love with it!  I am > waiting to buy a house so I can install it! > Wayne > Barbara: > I have installed bamboo flooring in three of my bedrooms and I love it. > However it is not for everybody.  You have to like the clean and > minimalistic look of it as it is even lighter than maple. > I used prefinished bamboo from Bamtex.  It is tongue and groove and I > installed it on top of concrete floor directly using very good adhesive > (Franklin). > The only thing I would suggest is to decide whether you wanted unfinished > or > prefinished.  Unfinished you can get the square edged pieces and finish it > yourself over the floor later.  Prefinished pieces are always comes with a > bevel edge.  This makes a little V notch between each piece and sweep the > floor clean is a challenge as dust and hair can get trap in between the > notches. > The bamboo pieces can be sanded many times, unlike the engineered wood > that > will only take 2 screening max.  I paid about $12.00 per sf installed two > years ago. > I took one piece and soaked it in hot water for 30 minutes and then let > dry.  The next morning it went back to normal.  No bulge and not warp.  I > think it is much more water resistant than wood. > I absolutely love it and will do it again if I get to buy my new house. > Sum > > I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s experience with bamboo flooring > > instead of traditional wood.  I see it on HGTV sometimes and it’s said > > to be cheaper and more imprevious to water than wood. > > Thanks, > > Barbara

Response:

I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s experience with bamboo flooring instead of traditional wood.  I see it on HGTV sometimes and it’s said to be cheaper and more imprevious to water than wood. Thanks, Barbara

Response:

Barbara: I have installed bamboo flooring in three of my bedrooms and I love it. However it is not for everybody.  You have to like the clean and minimalistic look of it as it is even lighter than maple. I used prefinished bamboo from Bamtex.  It is tongue and groove and I installed it on top of concrete floor directly using very good adhesive (Franklin). The only thing I would suggest is to decide whether you wanted unfinished or prefinished.  Unfinished you can get the square edged pieces and finish it yourself over the floor later.  Prefinished pieces are always comes with a bevel edge.  This makes a little V notch between each piece and sweep the floor clean is a challenge as dust and hair can get trap in between the notches. The bamboo pieces can be sanded many times, unlike the engineered wood that will only take 2 screening max.  I paid about $12.00 per sf installed two years ago. I took one piece and soaked it in hot water for 30 minutes and then let dry.  The next morning it went back to normal.  No bulge and not warp.  I think it is much more water resistant than wood. I absolutely love it and will do it again if I get to buy my new house. Sum – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s experience with bamboo flooring > instead of traditional wood.  I see it on HGTV sometimes and it’s said > to be cheaper and more imprevious to water than wood. > Thanks, > Barbara

Response:

I was looking at prefinished bamboo from heritage and their prefinished has a square edge. they also have a darker bamboo too http://www.fastfloors.com/heritage_bamboo38_images.htm I saw a sample at Great Indoors in Colorado and fell in love with it!  I am waiting to buy a house so I can install it! Wayne

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Barbara: > I have installed bamboo flooring in three of my bedrooms and I love it. > However it is not for everybody.  You have to like the clean and > minimalistic look of it as it is even lighter than maple. > I used prefinished bamboo from Bamtex.  It is tongue and groove and I > installed it on top of concrete floor directly using very good adhesive > (Franklin). > The only thing I would suggest is to decide whether you wanted unfinished or > prefinished.  Unfinished you can get the square edged pieces and finish it > yourself over the floor later.  Prefinished pieces are always comes with a > bevel edge.  This makes a little V notch between each piece and sweep the > floor clean is a challenge as dust and hair can get trap in between the > notches. > The bamboo pieces can be sanded many times, unlike the engineered wood that > will only take 2 screening max.  I paid about $12.00 per sf installed two > years ago. > I took one piece and soaked it in hot water for 30 minutes and then let > dry.  The next morning it went back to normal.  No bulge and not warp.  I > think it is much more water resistant than wood. > I absolutely love it and will do it again if I get to buy my new house. > Sum > I’d be interested in hearing of anyone’s experience with bamboo flooring > instead of traditional wood.  I see it on HGTV sometimes and it’s said > to be cheaper and more imprevious to water than wood. > Thanks, > Barbara

Response:

We got samples from a company called Timbergrass.  Their ad was in the back of a magazine called Natural Home, and the flooring co’s website is www.timbergrass.com

Response:

We got samples from Timbergrass, www.timbergrass.com  They also advertised in Natural Home magazine.  It looks really nice, we like the look of it and have heard good things about it.  We have some flooring to replace and are considering bamboo.

Response:

Question:

I’m just recently job free (read company tanking) and I’ve started to play with the house in my of time.  Since it is getting cold out I though I would look into reviewing and upgrading the insulation around the house.  After reading a few articles on the net I found conflicting opinions on insulating the crawlspace.  My space is a closed-in concrete crawlspace and has danger of radon gas build-up. So far I have seen R-25 insulation installed under the floor (plastic up) and/or placing R-12 to R-20 around the outside perimeter of the house.  I live in Vancouver BC and it gets down to freezing for only 1-2 months in the year and cold floors for about 5 months. Any advice or more articles would be appreciated. Cheers, Jason

Response:

Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes more hands than I have!

Response:

Thanks for the feedback.  I’m going to look at the pricing and compair it to the value of cold feet. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 > fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after > the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to > the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it > in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive > was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor > temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really > impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to > play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test area first and see if I can handle the hastle. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance > of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep > you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the > fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. > Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. > They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes > more hands than I have!

Response:

You can use the metal rods and then string it up once in place.  However, the cost of the rods is cheap enough that the replacement isn’t really worth it. Derek – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test > area first and see if I can handle the hastle. > cheers, > Jason

Response:

Thanks for the feedback.  I’m going to look at the pricing and compair it to the value of cold feet. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 > fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after > the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to > the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it > in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive > was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor > temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really > impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to > play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test area first and see if I can handle the hastle. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance > of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep > you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the > fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. > Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. > They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes > more hands than I have!

Response:

You can use the metal rods and then string it up once in place.  However, the cost of the rods is cheap enough that the replacement isn’t really worth it. Derek – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test > area first and see if I can handle the hastle. > cheers, > Jason

Response:

Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes more hands than I have!

Response:

I’m just recently job free (read company tanking) and I’ve started to play with the house in my of time.  Since it is getting cold out I though I would look into reviewing and upgrading the insulation around the house.  After reading a few articles on the net I found conflicting opinions on insulating the crawlspace.  My space is a closed-in concrete crawlspace and has danger of radon gas build-up. So far I have seen R-25 insulation installed under the floor (plastic up) and/or placing R-12 to R-20 around the outside perimeter of the house.  I live in Vancouver BC and it gets down to freezing for only 1-2 months in the year and cold floors for about 5 months. Any advice or more articles would be appreciated. Cheers, Jason

Response:

Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks for the feedback.  I’m going to look at the pricing and compair it to the value of cold feet. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 > fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after > the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to > the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it > in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive > was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor > temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really > impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to > play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test area first and see if I can handle the hastle. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance > of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep > you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the > fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. > Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. > They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes > more hands than I have!

Response:

You can use the metal rods and then string it up once in place.  However, the cost of the rods is cheap enough that the replacement isn’t really worth it. Derek – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test > area first and see if I can handle the hastle. > cheers, > Jason

Response:

Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes more hands than I have!

Response:

I’m just recently job free (read company tanking) and I’ve started to play with the house in my of time.  Since it is getting cold out I though I would look into reviewing and upgrading the insulation around the house.  After reading a few articles on the net I found conflicting opinions on insulating the crawlspace.  My space is a closed-in concrete crawlspace and has danger of radon gas build-up. So far I have seen R-25 insulation installed under the floor (plastic up) and/or placing R-12 to R-20 around the outside perimeter of the house.  I live in Vancouver BC and it gets down to freezing for only 1-2 months in the year and cold floors for about 5 months. Any advice or more articles would be appreciated. Cheers, Jason

Response:

Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks for the feedback.  I’m going to look at the pricing and compair it to the value of cold feet. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 > fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after > the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to > the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it > in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive > was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor > temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really > impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to > play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test area first and see if I can handle the hastle. cheers, Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance > of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep > you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the > fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. > Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. > They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes > more hands than I have!

Response:

You can use the metal rods and then string it up once in place.  However, the cost of the rods is cheap enough that the replacement isn’t really worth it. Derek – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks,  I was going to try and do it with string but will try a small test > area first and see if I can handle the hastle. > cheers, > Jason

Response:

Try testing for radon first and then insulating.  You will minimize entrance of radon if you put down polyethylene plastic over the floor.  It will keep you a lot cleaner as you insulate.  Wear a mask to prevent breathing the fiberglass.  Eye protection is also smart.  Fiberglass is no fun in the eye. Try using the precut, high tensile steel rods to hold up your insulation. They were fast and worked well for me.  Using string or other support takes more hands than I have!

Response:

I’m just recently job free (read company tanking) and I’ve started to play with the house in my of time.  Since it is getting cold out I though I would look into reviewing and upgrading the insulation around the house.  After reading a few articles on the net I found conflicting opinions on insulating the crawlspace.  My space is a closed-in concrete crawlspace and has danger of radon gas build-up. So far I have seen R-25 insulation installed under the floor (plastic up) and/or placing R-12 to R-20 around the outside perimeter of the house.  I live in Vancouver BC and it gets down to freezing for only 1-2 months in the year and cold floors for about 5 months. Any advice or more articles would be appreciated. Cheers, Jason

Response:

Our climate is the same here in Anacortes, Washington, and I put R19 fiberglass batts under the flooring (in the crawlspace) 3 or 4 years after the house was built. Foundation is continuous concrete wall, but vented to the outside per our current code. Since it was a nasty, awful job, I did it in two or three sesseions a month or so apart. What was really impressive was running around in bare feet and feeling the difference in floor temperature between insulated and uninsulated areas! Wow, I was really impressed! Our kids noticed it right away, and moved to the warmer spots to play (even homework, occasionally).

Response:

Question:

> pellets too? What I am wondering, wouldn’t it be easier to store the > seed in a air tight container, or a plastic storage box rather than > letting it take up space in the refridge?

Yep, seeds and pellets.  It is MUCH easier for me to store in the fridge, I just use the bottom shelf where I don’t put anything anyway, than to use a storage box. >Geez, isn’t cold bird seed bad?

Why would it be?  It’s not like it’s freezing cold and besides, they like frozen veggies anyhow!! Bobbie

Response:

pellets too? What I am wondering, wouldn’t it be easier to store the seed in a air tight container, or a plastic storage box rather than letting it take up space in the refridge? Also, mice would be more of a problem than mold. I have kept birds for years, and haven’t specially stored their seed anywhere. It has always been perfectly viable and nutritious. Geez, isn’t cold bird seed bad? How do you warm it, by baking it in the oven?! Or possibly microwaving it so that it is nice and hot? Or better, why not roast it in the fire place like chesnuts?

Response:

<< What I am wondering, wouldn’t it be easier to store the seed in a air tight container, or a plastic storage box rather than letting it take up space in the refridge? >> Obviously you’ve never had a moth problem!! <VBG> The air tight container would work PROVIDING there were no creepy crawly’s in the seed to begin with. What I usually do is throw the seed mix in the freezer for a day or two, than put it into a container as needed. I only buy the 50 lb bags in the winter when I can store them in our shed in a huge container. As for the pellets, a friend of mine lost almost a whole rubbermaid container of them to moths.    ""Birds are like potato chips, betcha can’t have just one!"" Dawn,    Baby,  Izzy,  Gabby,  Rio,  &  ~Pierre~ Human- MSC2- CAG-  CAG-  B&G- &   ~MOL~

Response:

> pellets too? What I am wondering, wouldn’t it be easier to store the > seed in a air tight container, or a plastic storage box rather than > letting it take up space in the refridge? Also, mice would be more of > a problem than mold. I have kept birds for years, and haven’t > specially stored their seed anywhere. It has always been perfectly > viable and nutritious. Geez, isn’t cold bird seed bad? How do you warm > it, by baking it in the oven?! Or possibly microwaving it so that it > is nice and hot? Or better, why not roast it in the fire place like > chesnuts?

Heating or nuking pellets would probably destroy nutrients.  Why would you need to warm them?  My birds love frozen veggies. — Sincerely, Joanne If it’s right for you, then it’s right, . . . . . for you!!! Play – http://www.jobird.com Pay for Play – http://www.jobird.com/refund.htm Looking for Love? – http://www.jobird.com/hearts.htm Available Now – http://www.jobird.com/available.htm

Response:

I’m just going to throw out two tips for those new to the world of birds. 1)…keep your bird food (seed and pellets) in the fridge…keeps away those nasty moths. 2)…don’t use grit paper.  The grit is applied w/glue and the glue and paper have a tendancy to impact a bird if they chew on it.  If you don’t want to buy litter, newspaper or paper towels work, though I personally like Pet’s Prefrence…a recycled paper pulp. Bobbie

Response:

> 2)…don’t use grit paper.  The grit is applied w/glue and the glue and > paper have a tendancy to impact a bird if they chew on it.  If you don’t > want to buy litter, newspaper or paper towels work, though I personally like > Pet’s Prefrence…a recycled paper pulp.

Yes! By all means, STAY AWAY from grit paper. For one thing, all hookbills (budgies and up) don’t need grit, and grit can cause more problems then it solves. The glue can be toxic. Also, stay away from perches with so called sand paper glued on to it. That too uses potentionally toxic glue. Also, ONE cement perch in the cage is much safer and more effective. Use only one though. Standing on a cement perch (sandpaper coated too) is as comfortable as it would be for you to stand on a gravel road with bare feet. Use a cement perch only if you are too lazy to trim your bird’s toenails. They tend to be most helpful with older birds whose toenails grow faster. Newspapers work the best for cage flooring. I use them. However, use ONLY the black and white sheets. Color can be toxic. Paper towels work excellent too, however, it can be more expensive. I kill 2 birds with one stone (not really kill, it’s a saying) by having the daily newspaper delivered to my door every morning. I read it when gulping down my oatmeal and then I clean the paper on the bottom of the cage, and put in the black and white sheets from that day’s paper on the bottom. I wouldn’t use corn cob or any type of litter. It makes owners lazy because the droppings are "conceled" and the cage is much dirtier than it looks. A dirty cage is a unhealthy home for your bird. Also, if you ever accidently tipped the bottom tray when replacing the litter, it could tip and then all that sand (or other litter) is all over you floor (worse, your carpet!)

Response:

Question:

> It is a new technology, so here is a bit about how it works. > Power of Nature pulsating electromagnetic field generation (PEMF) has been > clinically tested and used throughout the world for over 20 years.  Pulse > electromagnetic field therapy has been proven to positively influence cells, > organs, bones, and the organic system.  It has been shown to stimulate and > enhance the entire vital process of the body.

Great. I don’t need to worry about that power line next to my house, then. It is actually good for me! And my digital cellphone will keep me healthy on the road.

Response:

I have a waterbed and still suffered from back-pain until I got the sleepwell system.  I’m now a reseller for this company and though I’d let you know about the program.  Look for the sleepwell system at my new website, let me know what you think.  There is a money back warrantee so if it doesn’t work for you, just return it. It is a new technology, so here is a bit about how it works. Power of Nature pulsating electromagnetic field generation (PEMF) has been clinically tested and used throughout the world for over 20 years.  Pulse electromagnetic field therapy has been proven to positively influence cells, organs, bones, and the organic system.  It has been shown to stimulate and enhance the entire vital process of the body. Power of Nature http://PowerOfNature.org/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >>> to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >> …. we decided on the Tempurpedic, >> (actually it’s a store brand of the same foam from a local <snip> > Well, guess that answers my question:  Had been wondering how much of > the "Tempurpedic" was advertising hype and hoopla and if the same > product could not be bought generically.  All that national full page > advertising has to cost a bundle, which the customer pays for in the > end….. > -v. > absolutely…in our case, when all was said and done, it was almost > half the price of a Tempurpedic. > cheers, > 01dyna > 01 FXDWG > AMA Lifemember… > DoD#0628… > HOG,MANS etc etc.

Response:

> What’s YOUR diference, readers?

It used to be about 150 pounds before I lost 90 pounds and it didn’t matter on our waterbed.  Some are designed to accommodate differing weights through the use of clever baffling or even two separate chambers.  Our current bed (a "softsider") has the latter and is incredibly comfortable.

Response:

Did she try adjusting the firmness of the waterbed first?  If properly adjusted for her body type and the way she sleeps, the waterbed should be no worse (no different, really), than any other bed.  -Dave — On linuxfreemail dot com, I am user "spamfilter".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> my aunt started getting really bad back problems about 5 years after getting > their water bed, after going to many doctors she finally decided to give up > the water bed and now she feels much better

Response:

> Any studies out there about how it affects your back? > My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs > in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm > mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. > I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). > They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm.

I think it’s a lot more dependent on individual backs than some would lead you to believe.  I have chronic disc problems, and the times I’ve tried water beds, it aggravated my back _very_ quickly. Another thing to consider is futons.  Either "plain" or with a foam layer.  My back seems to do best on a very hard futon with an inch of foam. — Chris Lewis, For more information on spam, see http://spam.abuse.net/spam It’s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Response:

I have been doing some research on waterbed mattresses and find the following to be true: 1) Especially if you have back problems, if you use a waterbed, make sure you have a good heater for it, and make sure to keep it close to body temperature- any excess coolness can make your back muscles tighten up and spasm.  Keeping it too warm might make you too warm to sleep well. 2) The waveless, or semi-waveless mattresses with lumbar support through the middle of them are the ones to try, NOT the full flow balloon type mattresses that slosh a lot.  Yes, the waveless are more expensive, especially the ones with lumbar supports, but they are worth it in saved backaches in the end. 3) even the kind of mattress cover or pad can make a difference in the amount of support the bed gives, and its comfort level.  If you decide to get one, don’t scrimp.  A good king size mattress and cover are going to run you about $250 each.  The bed itself will cost another $500, so your total investment is going to easily be around a grand. I have had a waterbed for years, and have never slept as well in anything else, but I do not have a bad back, either…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any studies out there about how it affects your back? > My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs > in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm > mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. > I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). > They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm. > I think it’s a lot more dependent on individual backs than some would > lead you to believe.  I have chronic disc problems, and the times I’ve > tried water beds, it aggravated my back _very_ quickly. > Another thing to consider is futons.  Either "plain" or with a foam > layer.  My back seems to do best on a very hard futon with an inch > of foam. > — > Chris Lewis, > For more information on spam, see http://spam.abuse.net/spam > It’s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Response:

> But you will have a tough time sleeping on this type of >waterbed if you don’t sleep alone.  (your partner BREATHING will create >enough motion to keep you awake)

ITA here.  My husband and I used to share a non-waveless waterbed.  The weight difference between us is around 50 lbs, and he displaced so much more water than I did laying on that big water balloon that I ether slept on a hill or with my face rolled into the side of the bed frame. Needless to say, that bed didn’t last long.

Response:

>>I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >Did it take long to get used to it?  And, how long have you had it? >I have to concur with Aki.  I’m going on two years with my Tempur-Pedic and >I love it.  We bought the whole king size system — the mattress, the box >springs and the pillows.  Love them all.   Whenever I sleep away from home >I count the nights till I can get back to the Tempur-Pedic.

ditto on the pillows as well.  When I travel, sleeping on hotel beds feels like I’ve slept in the back seat of my car. cheers, 01dyna 01 FXDWG AMA Lifemember… DoD#0628… HOG,MANS etc etc.

Response:

>I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >Did it take long to get used to it?  And, how long have you had it?

I have to concur with Aki.  I’m going on two years with my Tempur-Pedic and I love it.  We bought the whole king size system — the mattress, the box springs and the pillows.  Love them all.   Whenever I sleep away from home I count the nights till I can get back to the Tempur-Pedic. — Member of the United States Militia Don’t believe me?  Read Title 10 of the US Code, section 311 (a), (b)(2) See it at http://www4.law.cornell.edu/uscode/10/311.html

Response:

>Just one problem with waterbeds.  The most comfortable ones are the >NON-waveless type (the type where the mattress is basically ONE big balloon >filled with water).  But you will have a tough time sleeping on this type of >waterbed if you don’t sleep alone.  (your partner BREATHING will create >enough motion to keep you awake)

Bologna!  If you are the type that can’t get used to the motion, that’s a problem.  Saying someone else’s breathing will create enough motion to keep you awake is fiction.  I speak from experience having more than a few people sleep in a full motion waterbed and NO ONE was kept awake by motion induced by anyone else’s breathing.

Response:

my aunt started getting really bad back problems about 5 years after getting their water bed, after going to many doctors she finally decided to give up the water bed and now she feels much better

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always see them for sale in the classifieds.   It sounds like most > people either hate them or love them.   Anyone has/had one. > Any studies out there about how it affects your back? > My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs > in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm > mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. > I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). > They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm. > Any thought on this matter.

Response:

>>Just one problem with waterbeds.  The most comfortable ones are the >NON-waveless type (the type where the mattress is basically ONE big balloon >filled with water).  But you will have a tough time sleeping on this type of >waterbed if you don’t sleep alone.  (your partner BREATHING will create >enough motion to keep you awake) >Bologna!  If you are the type that can’t get used to the motion, >that’s a problem.  Saying someone else’s breathing will create enough >motion to keep you awake is fiction.  I speak from experience having >more than a few people sleep in a full motion waterbed and NO ONE was >kept awake by motion induced by anyone else’s breathing.

woah!  Tell us more!  This sounds interesting…  ;-) cheers, 01dyna 01 FXDWG AMA Lifemember… DoD#0628… HOG,MANS etc etc.

Response:

I hear this "firms beds are better for your back" but in truth your back needs support.  A firm bed can be too firm, and have no give, so it does not conform to your shape and therefore offers no support.  I have had a bad back for years, and have always bought a firm mattress, had a high quality foam mattress for years.  I now have a wonderful pillow top mattress, that gives lots of support but is also padded enough that my poor joints and back no longer ache.  I know this doesn’t address water beds, but just make sure the bed you buy is really comfortable.  Bring a book and stay in the bed in the store for a while.  I found that after just 15 – 20 minutes, some beds already began to make me ache, whether it was too soft or too firm. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Just one problem with waterbeds.  The most comfortable ones are the >>NON-waveless type (the type where the mattress is basically ONE big balloon >>filled with water).  But you will have a tough time sleeping on this type of >>waterbed if you don’t sleep alone.  (your partner BREATHING will create >>enough motion to keep you awake) >Bologna!  If you are the type that can’t get used to the motion, >that’s a problem.  Saying someone else’s breathing will create enough >motion to keep you awake is fiction.  I speak from experience having >more than a few people sleep in a full motion waterbed and NO ONE was >kept awake by motion induced by anyone else’s breathing. > woah!  Tell us more!  This sounds interesting…  ;-) > cheers, > 01dyna > 01 FXDWG > AMA Lifemember… > DoD#0628… > HOG,MANS etc etc.

Response:

>I always see them for sale in the classifieds.   It sounds like most >people either hate them or love them.   Anyone has/had one.

My wife liked ours, but after a few years my back was killing me each morning. Our compromise was a Tempurpedic mattress, which is firm enough for me and soft enough for her, strangely enough.

Response:

I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. Did it take long to get used to it?  And, how long have you had it? Thank you, Arne, USA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My wife liked ours, but after a few years my back was killing me each > morning. Our compromise was a Tempurpedic mattress, which is firm > enough for me and soft enough for her, strangely enough.

Response:

Try a Select Comfort bed. Instead of water, it uses air. Firmness is totally adjustable (separately for each side in the larger beds), from soft quicksand to almost concrete. Extremely comfortable, and no worries about leaks or heating or filling or draining. — Compaq Computer Corporation             (603)-884-1294 110 Spit Brook Road M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH    03062-2698

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >Did it take long to get used to it?  And, how long have you had it? >Thank you, >Arne, USA > My wife liked ours, but after a few years my back was killing me each > morning. Our compromise was a Tempurpedic mattress, which is firm > enough for me and soft enough for her, strangely enough.

We have a Tempurpedic and had a high end waterbed before that.  The waterbed was *great* but had it’s inherent problems: 1. Cleaning and filling was always "fun".  If you don’t have enough hot water, consider that a king size bed takes about 24 hours to heat up to a comfortable temperature.  Before that, it’s like sleeping on a cold soft floor that never gets warm. 2.  They’re *heavy*.  Where ever you decide your bed is going to be is where it’s going to be *period* unless you at least partially drain the mattress.  Rearranging bedroom furniture takes on a whole new meaning with a  waterbed.  Also if your home is older, make sure that your sub flooring can withstand the weight of a waterbed.  Most homes have no problem with this, but if it’s a very old home or an apartment (especially a rental!), make sure that you don’t violate any building or rental agreements owning a waterbed.  Some landlords don’t like the idea of  a couple hundred gallons of water suspended in a plastic bubble above the heads of their other tenants. 3. If you don’t get a waterbed with a surrounding mattress, (our guest room has a queen size bed with a zip out pad that has a waveless waterbed embedded in the center of the mattress so it *looks* like a regular mattress from the outside), you need to be careful about sharp objects puncturing the mattress.  And if a leak occurs, it’s a mess to clean up, even with a lining. 4.  Waterbeds require their own specially designed sheets.  Not a real problem to get except that you may have to go out of your way to get good sheets.  The problem is compounded if you have a "California" sized king size mattress as they are a little larger and a little deeper than a normal king sized mattress so regular king sized waterbed sheets don’t fit well. As for the Tempurpedic, it’s night and day.  We’ve used waterbeds for over 10 years and always thought they were very comfortable but got tired of the issues I listed above and wanted more flexibility in our bedroom suite.  So when we decided to buy a new bedroom suite, we opted to go with a traditional king size 4 poster bed with a traditional mattress.  After a lot of research and going out and looking at various types of mattresses, we decided on the Tempurpedic, (actually it’s a store brand of the same foam from a local Joannes Bed and Back store which cost us about $900 for a king size).  Very comfortable…VERY comfortable.  It doesn’t matter if you prefer a firm or soft mattress, and the foam adjusts to your body contour relieving any stress points.  But like waterbeds, it’s not unusual to be sore the first couple of times you sleep on it because it takes time for your body to "relax" it’s stress points.. at least that’s what they told us and what we experienced but we also noticed that lying on the mattress induced faster REM sleep.  We’ve had it now for about 5 years and would never think of going back  and to this day, it’s still dangerous to just lay down for a minute or two on the bed because it’s so easy to fall right to sleep. One final comment though.  Instead of buying an expensive mattress, I may suggest buying the Tempurpedic (or equal) mattress pad? Our daughter has a Sealy mattress and instead of buying an expensive replacement mattress (she liked our bed a little *too* much!), we opted to try out a 3" thick "pad" that lies on top of the mattress (it’s covered in a removable cotton cover with pocketed corners for easy install).  She loved it!  And it was only $300 and feels *just* as comfortable as our mattress for less than half the price. The pad doesn’t hinder regular fitted sheets either. whew! cheers, -aki

Response:

Depends on what foam mattress you tried. We got one from FloBeds.com a month ago and I never slept so well in my life. There are no pressure points, even laying on my side. You can adjust the firmness on each side by exchanging the 2+2 core elements in the bed, and have up to 90 days to exchange them. I changed extra firm over firm for medium over firm and it made quite a difference. Their pillows were not too good though. If you get a water bed, be sure that the house is structurally sound, since water weighs around 9# per gallon. Rick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always see them for sale in the classifieds.   It sounds like most > people either hate them or love them.   Anyone has/had one. > Any studies out there about how it affects your back? > My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs > in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm > mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. > I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). > They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm. > Any thought on this matter.

Response:

>>I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >…. we decided on the Tempurpedic, >(actually it’s a store brand of the same foam from a local <snip>

Well, guess that answers my question:  Had been wondering how much of the "Tempurpedic" was advertising hype and hoopla and if the same product could not be bought generically.  All that national full page advertising has to cost a bundle, which the customer pays for in the end….. -v.

Response:

>… The weight >difference between us is around 50 lbs…

Now THERE’S an interesting possible thread…. The weight difference between my spouse and myself is more like 85 lbs.  But that’s because here, the dog weighs the same as the wife…. What’s YOUR diference, readers? -v.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I was going to ask about the Tempurpedic mattress. I’ve given some thought >>to getting one. They are very pricey, around $1,500…. >…. we decided on the Tempurpedic, >(actually it’s a store brand of the same foam from a local <snip> >Well, guess that answers my question:  Had been wondering how much of >the "Tempurpedic" was advertising hype and hoopla and if the same >product could not be bought generically.  All that national full page >advertising has to cost a bundle, which the customer pays for in the >end….. >-v.

absolutely…in our case, when all was said and done, it was almost half the price of a Tempurpedic.   cheers, 01dyna 01 FXDWG AMA Lifemember… DoD#0628… HOG,MANS etc etc.

Response:

I always see them for sale in the classifieds.   It sounds like most people either hate them or love them.   Anyone has/had one. Any studies out there about how it affects your back? My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm. Any thought on this matter.

Response:

They are great.  Not only can they be adjusted for firmness, but you can sleep in any position you want to, without a lot of tossing and turning. I’m not sure they are "better" for a back than a quality regular bed, but they are no worse for your back.  On the water bed, you WILL get more rest though, as you will hit the deepest cycles of sleep faster and stay there longer.  That’s got to be good for your overall health. Just one problem with waterbeds.  The most comfortable ones are the NON-waveless type (the type where the mattress is basically ONE big balloon filled with water).  But you will have a tough time sleeping on this type of waterbed if you don’t sleep alone.  (your partner BREATHING will create enough motion to keep you awake) So if you’re married, or living with someone who shares your bed, you’d better opt for the less comfortable waveless type. Keep in mind that some motels have water beds.  So next time you stay overnight away from home, check.  That would be a cheap way to REALLY try before you buy.  I mean, the waterbed rooms are typically about ten bucks more than regular, if that.  -Dave — On linuxfreemail dot com, I am user "spamfilter".

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I always see them for sale in the classifieds.   It sounds like most > people either hate them or love them.   Anyone has/had one. > Any studies out there about how it affects your back? > My back muscles are very sensitive.  I can feel the springs > in my expensive pillow top mattress.   They say you need a firm > mattress for a healthy back.   I want to try a water mattress. > I tried  a foam mattress but had a terrible night (was sore all over). > They say you can fill a water mattress full so it is more firm. > Any thought on this matter. > vladianu>

Response:

Question:

I’ve been using Capture carpet cleaner for some years to clean spots and high traffic areas.  Great stuff.  First you spray the area to be cleaned with a pre-mist, then you sprinkle on special powder and brush it in lightly with a stiff brush, then you wait a half-hour (or more if the stains are tough) and then you vacuum it up.  Sometimes I have had to do more than one application for a hard-to-clean area (like where the cat had diarrhea on the light beige carpet in the middle of the hall – yik.) Generally it works very well.  I first started using it because I got new carpeting and the manufacturer recommended it.   I get mine at Lowe’s.  You can also find it on a number of Internet sites if you can’t find it locally. Good luck, Sarah W – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone have a recommendation for a carpet shampooer/cleaner?  I > get my carpets cleaned twice a year but I have a dog and a cat and … > need I say more?  I would like to find a home carpet cleaner to use > in between professional cleanings.

Response:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a carpet shampooer/cleaner?  I get my carpets cleaned twice a year but I have a dog and a cat and … need I say more?  I would like to find a home carpet cleaner to use in between professional cleanings. Before anyone suggests it, I do plan to get rid of the carpet since I want to continue to have pets in the house, but the floor under the carpet is whatever cheap flooring is used (subfloor?) when a house is built for carpet.  When I can afford finished flooring I plan to get rid of the carpet. TIA, Barbara

Response:

Question:

I just purchased a small paperback that is in all the bookstores called "Talking Dirty with the Queen of Clean" by Linda Cobb. Chapter 13 "Are Pets Turning Your Home into a Barnyard?" gives very specific steps to follow to get the odor out so that your pet won’t be enticed into revisiting that spot again. Fortunately I have not had to try her method but you never know!  You might even be able to check it out at your local library. Michele

Response:

While I use Resolve myself, it can "bleach" out some carpetings.  (My carpeting is a very light cream color, so the Resolve doesn’t hurt it.) A great cleaner and odor eliminator is Nature’s Miracle.  It’s sold at pet stores.  I swear by the stuff! — *Cheers* ~Just Me~ Please (remove your shoes) before replying. "If you live to be a hundred, I want to live to be a hundred minus one day, so I never have to live without you." *Winnie The Pooh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red > spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents. >                   -MIKE

Response:

I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor however its much to coastly.  Any suggestions on types of carpet, something I could put on the carpet to protect it anything would be appreciated. Hawk

Response:

Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents.                     -MIKE

Response:

> I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats > having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being > totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor > however its much to coastly.

Frankly, as someone who’s taken up half the carpet in the house and intends to replace the other half, my advice would be not to get carpet.  Have you really checked that alternatives are more expensive? We’ve found that laminated wooden flooring works out the same or less than average quality carpet, and with multiple animals it’s wonderful. We had carpet for years, because it’s the British style, and got thoroughly fed up with vacuum cleaners that couldn’t pick up animal hair even with gadgets designed specifically for the purpose (yes we tried a Dyson), stains from various animal deposits, and a generally constantly grubby looking carpet. There are some beautiful colours available in laminated wood now.  We’ve used beech in the bedrooms and oak in the hall and on the landings, it’s easy to keep clean (accidents just wipe away), it always *looks* clean, throw a few machine washable rugs around and it looks great.  We’ve had lots of positive comments from our visitors.  Next we’re going to do the living rooms. So, I’m sorry, but I have no positive advice at all to offer regarding carpet.  I believe that carpet is a mistake if you have multiple animals.  My advice would be to look at alternatives again. Alley Cat

Response:

I just purchased a small paperback that is in all the bookstores called "Talking Dirty with the Queen of Clean" by Linda Cobb. Chapter 13 "Are Pets Turning Your Home into a Barnyard?" gives very specific steps to follow to get the odor out so that your pet won’t be enticed into revisiting that spot again. Fortunately I have not had to try her method but you never know!  You might even be able to check it out at your local library. Michele

Response:

While I use Resolve myself, it can "bleach" out some carpetings.  (My carpeting is a very light cream color, so the Resolve doesn’t hurt it.) A great cleaner and odor eliminator is Nature’s Miracle.  It’s sold at pet stores.  I swear by the stuff! — *Cheers* ~Just Me~ Please (remove your shoes) before replying. "If you live to be a hundred, I want to live to be a hundred minus one day, so I never have to live without you." *Winnie The Pooh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red > spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents. >                   -MIKE

Response:

I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor however its much to coastly.  Any suggestions on types of carpet, something I could put on the carpet to protect it anything would be appreciated. Hawk

Response:

Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents.                     -MIKE

Response:

> I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats > having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being > totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor > however its much to coastly.

Frankly, as someone who’s taken up half the carpet in the house and intends to replace the other half, my advice would be not to get carpet.  Have you really checked that alternatives are more expensive? We’ve found that laminated wooden flooring works out the same or less than average quality carpet, and with multiple animals it’s wonderful. We had carpet for years, because it’s the British style, and got thoroughly fed up with vacuum cleaners that couldn’t pick up animal hair even with gadgets designed specifically for the purpose (yes we tried a Dyson), stains from various animal deposits, and a generally constantly grubby looking carpet. There are some beautiful colours available in laminated wood now.  We’ve used beech in the bedrooms and oak in the hall and on the landings, it’s easy to keep clean (accidents just wipe away), it always *looks* clean, throw a few machine washable rugs around and it looks great.  We’ve had lots of positive comments from our visitors.  Next we’re going to do the living rooms. So, I’m sorry, but I have no positive advice at all to offer regarding carpet.  I believe that carpet is a mistake if you have multiple animals.  My advice would be to look at alternatives again. Alley Cat

Response:

I just purchased a small paperback that is in all the bookstores called "Talking Dirty with the Queen of Clean" by Linda Cobb. Chapter 13 "Are Pets Turning Your Home into a Barnyard?" gives very specific steps to follow to get the odor out so that your pet won’t be enticed into revisiting that spot again. Fortunately I have not had to try her method but you never know!  You might even be able to check it out at your local library. Michele

Response:

While I use Resolve myself, it can "bleach" out some carpetings.  (My carpeting is a very light cream color, so the Resolve doesn’t hurt it.) A great cleaner and odor eliminator is Nature’s Miracle.  It’s sold at pet stores.  I swear by the stuff! — *Cheers* ~Just Me~ Please (remove your shoes) before replying. "If you live to be a hundred, I want to live to be a hundred minus one day, so I never have to live without you." *Winnie The Pooh

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red > spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents. >                   -MIKE

Response:

I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor however its much to coastly.  Any suggestions on types of carpet, something I could put on the carpet to protect it anything would be appreciated. Hawk

Response:

Just  stock up on some "Resolve" carpet cleaner.  It comes in a red spray container and does a good job of removing the accidents.                     -MIKE

Response:

> I am getting carpet in my home and have four cats.  My concern is the cats > having accidents on the carpet and trying to keep the carpet from being > totally runined.  I would take another route with fixing up the floor > however its much to coastly.

Frankly, as someone who’s taken up half the carpet in the house and intends to replace the other half, my advice would be not to get carpet.  Have you really checked that alternatives are more expensive? We’ve found that laminated wooden flooring works out the same or less than average quality carpet, and with multiple animals it’s wonderful. We had carpet for years, because it’s the British style, and got thoroughly fed up with vacuum cleaners that couldn’t pick up animal hair even with gadgets designed specifically for the purpose (yes we tried a Dyson), stains from various animal deposits, and a generally constantly grubby looking carpet. There are some beautiful colours available in laminated wood now.  We’ve used beech in the bedrooms and oak in the hall and on the landings, it’s easy to keep clean (accidents just wipe away), it always *looks* clean, throw a few machine washable rugs around and it looks great.  We’ve had lots of positive comments from our visitors.  Next we’re going to do the living rooms. So, I’m sorry, but I have no positive advice at all to offer regarding carpet.  I believe that carpet is a mistake if you have multiple animals.  My advice would be to look at alternatives again. Alley Cat

Response:

Question:

You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes to worry about.

Response:

LOL, you are right.  It is blinds and valances all over my house!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

I had my cat for almost 2 years and I have drapes. The drapes are fine. My cousin has had her cat for 7+ years and her drapes are fine too. Both of our cats have claws and both are indoor-only. I trim my cat’s claws every 2-3 weeks, but my cousin doesn’t even bother with it, not that Katia would let anyone touch her claws. She is a little spitfire – not even a vet can do anything to her without sedation. Strangely, she is a completely non-destructive kitty (that is to furniture, not to the skin of stupid humans who choose to bother her) – all she wants to scratch is an unsanded unfinished chunk of wood that my cousin got from a construction site and placed by the window. When my cat showed interest in drapes, my cousin suggested I open the drapes a crack so that my cat (than kitten) can get to the sliding glass doors. As soon as I did, my Mashka went straight to the doors and ignored the drapes. I don’t think she could pierce the dense fabric with her trimmed claws, even if she wanted to. She did try to climb lacy curtains I have under the heavier drapes once – she must have seen some bird outside and tried to catch it. It was kind of funny. Strangely, the curtains held, but the rod got pulled from the wall on one side.  I moved the scratching post a bit closer to the sliding glass door, and she never tried it again. Maybe we are just lucky that our cats are not curtain climbers… Alla – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

OK–I was being facetious–should have included a  I think your hint about opening drapes a little so the cat can see out is a really good one. Also, some cats really like to climb, so a big floor-to-ceiling cat tree may help a lot.  For scratching, both of our cats love their scratching posts made of chunks of tree trunk with the bark still attached.  They have one indoors and one in their cat enclosure.  If you can find someone cutting down a tree, such posts are usually free, though the tough part can be lugging them home because they’re so heavy.  Remember to put a bit of plastic underneath if using a tree-trunk post indoors–it may weep sap onto your carpeting or flooring.

Response:

Hello alll! How can I get my cat to stop climbing the drapes? Have a nice day!                   Phil

Response:

Try applying large strips of double-sided tape to the drapes. Cats really don’t like the sticky feeling. You can buy thick sticky strips at some pet stores, but they’re about $10 a package. You might be able to find roll tape much cheaper. They also make repellant sprays, but they didn’t have much effect on my cat.

Response:

>How can I get my cat to stop climbing >the drapes?

The trick to this is to give your cat something it likes BETTER than the drapes. Buy one of these: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=524 and place it in the window where the drapes are. You can see one of these trees in use here: http://community.webtv.net/zuzu22/scratch Megan "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." -Edmund Burke Learn The TRUTH About Declawing http://www.stopdeclaw.com Zuzu’s Cats Photo Album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=244574&Auth=false

Response:

You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes to worry about.

Response:

LOL, you are right.  It is blinds and valances all over my house!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

I had my cat for almost 2 years and I have drapes. The drapes are fine. My cousin has had her cat for 7+ years and her drapes are fine too. Both of our cats have claws and both are indoor-only. I trim my cat’s claws every 2-3 weeks, but my cousin doesn’t even bother with it, not that Katia would let anyone touch her claws. She is a little spitfire – not even a vet can do anything to her without sedation. Strangely, she is a completely non-destructive kitty (that is to furniture, not to the skin of stupid humans who choose to bother her) – all she wants to scratch is an unsanded unfinished chunk of wood that my cousin got from a construction site and placed by the window. When my cat showed interest in drapes, my cousin suggested I open the drapes a crack so that my cat (than kitten) can get to the sliding glass doors. As soon as I did, my Mashka went straight to the doors and ignored the drapes. I don’t think she could pierce the dense fabric with her trimmed claws, even if she wanted to. She did try to climb lacy curtains I have under the heavier drapes once – she must have seen some bird outside and tried to catch it. It was kind of funny. Strangely, the curtains held, but the rod got pulled from the wall on one side.  I moved the scratching post a bit closer to the sliding glass door, and she never tried it again. Maybe we are just lucky that our cats are not curtain climbers… Alla – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

OK–I was being facetious–should have included a  I think your hint about opening drapes a little so the cat can see out is a really good one. Also, some cats really like to climb, so a big floor-to-ceiling cat tree may help a lot.  For scratching, both of our cats love their scratching posts made of chunks of tree trunk with the bark still attached.  They have one indoors and one in their cat enclosure.  If you can find someone cutting down a tree, such posts are usually free, though the tough part can be lugging them home because they’re so heavy.  Remember to put a bit of plastic underneath if using a tree-trunk post indoors–it may weep sap onto your carpeting or flooring.

Response:

Hello alll! How can I get my cat to stop climbing the drapes? Have a nice day!                   Phil

Response:

Try applying large strips of double-sided tape to the drapes. Cats really don’t like the sticky feeling. You can buy thick sticky strips at some pet stores, but they’re about $10 a package. You might be able to find roll tape much cheaper. They also make repellant sprays, but they didn’t have much effect on my cat.

Response:

>How can I get my cat to stop climbing >the drapes?

The trick to this is to give your cat something it likes BETTER than the drapes. Buy one of these: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=524 and place it in the window where the drapes are. You can see one of these trees in use here: http://community.webtv.net/zuzu22/scratch Megan "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." -Edmund Burke Learn The TRUTH About Declawing http://www.stopdeclaw.com Zuzu’s Cats Photo Album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=244574&Auth=false

Response:

You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes to worry about.

Response:

LOL, you are right.  It is blinds and valances all over my house!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

I had my cat for almost 2 years and I have drapes. The drapes are fine. My cousin has had her cat for 7+ years and her drapes are fine too. Both of our cats have claws and both are indoor-only. I trim my cat’s claws every 2-3 weeks, but my cousin doesn’t even bother with it, not that Katia would let anyone touch her claws. She is a little spitfire – not even a vet can do anything to her without sedation. Strangely, she is a completely non-destructive kitty (that is to furniture, not to the skin of stupid humans who choose to bother her) – all she wants to scratch is an unsanded unfinished chunk of wood that my cousin got from a construction site and placed by the window. When my cat showed interest in drapes, my cousin suggested I open the drapes a crack so that my cat (than kitten) can get to the sliding glass doors. As soon as I did, my Mashka went straight to the doors and ignored the drapes. I don’t think she could pierce the dense fabric with her trimmed claws, even if she wanted to. She did try to climb lacy curtains I have under the heavier drapes once – she must have seen some bird outside and tried to catch it. It was kind of funny. Strangely, the curtains held, but the rod got pulled from the wall on one side.  I moved the scratching post a bit closer to the sliding glass door, and she never tried it again. Maybe we are just lucky that our cats are not curtain climbers… Alla – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You must be a new cat owner.  Most of the rest of us no longer have drapes > to worry about.

Response:

OK–I was being facetious–should have included a  I think your hint about opening drapes a little so the cat can see out is a really good one. Also, some cats really like to climb, so a big floor-to-ceiling cat tree may help a lot.  For scratching, both of our cats love their scratching posts made of chunks of tree trunk with the bark still attached.  They have one indoors and one in their cat enclosure.  If you can find someone cutting down a tree, such posts are usually free, though the tough part can be lugging them home because they’re so heavy.  Remember to put a bit of plastic underneath if using a tree-trunk post indoors–it may weep sap onto your carpeting or flooring.

Response:

Hello alll! How can I get my cat to stop climbing the drapes? Have a nice day!                   Phil

Response:

Try applying large strips of double-sided tape to the drapes. Cats really don’t like the sticky feeling. You can buy thick sticky strips at some pet stores, but they’re about $10 a package. You might be able to find roll tape much cheaper. They also make repellant sprays, but they didn’t have much effect on my cat.

Response:

>How can I get my cat to stop climbing >the drapes?

The trick to this is to give your cat something it likes BETTER than the drapes. Buy one of these: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=524 and place it in the window where the drapes are. You can see one of these trees in use here: http://community.webtv.net/zuzu22/scratch Megan "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." -Edmund Burke Learn The TRUTH About Declawing http://www.stopdeclaw.com Zuzu’s Cats Photo Album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=244574&Auth=false

Response:

Question:

Seems to me if it didn’t squeak for 16 years, there is nothing defective about the product. Maybe your whole house shifted. Don – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I live in a twenty year old house that has developed extremely squeaky > floors over the last four years. > When we bought the house nine years ago there wasn’t a problem so I didn’t > pay much attention to a posting on this newgroup about a class action law > suit settlement with a manufacturer of wood subflooring material.  The > company had been ordered to pay up to $25,000 per house where their flooring > product had been used. I don’t know if that company’s product was used in my > home or not, but I would like to find out who the company was and the > product involved. If anyone has any information about that company and > product or perhaps happened to have made a copy of that posting for their > own use, I would appreciate a reply. > Larry in Virginia

Response:

I live in a twenty year old house that has developed extremely squeaky floors over the last four years. When we bought the house nine years ago there wasn’t a problem so I didn’t pay much attention to a posting on this newgroup about a class action law suit settlement with a manufacturer of wood subflooring material.  The company had been ordered to pay up to $25,000 per house where their flooring product had been used. I don’t know if that company’s product was used in my home or not, but I would like to find out who the company was and the product involved. If anyone has any information about that company and product or perhaps happened to have made a copy of that posting for their own use, I would appreciate a reply. Larry in Virginia

Response:

We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? Thank You, Joan

Response:

> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be > replacing the kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I > would like to know exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking > the installer to do to permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is > that they will just try to re-nail the squeaky places only to later to > discover that new squeaks have developed. Or, is there just not much > one can do about this type of problem?

If the floor under the lino or carpet is made of softwood floorboards, have the installer screw the boards down rather than re-nailing them. If it’s a sheet material do the same, but with hardboard screws (not wood screws);  the more the better. Harvey

Response:

> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks?

why not pull the lino out yourself, and try fastening the squeaky ares down with deck screws to the subflooring? i wouldnt use nails…  My concern is that they will just try to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Once the covering is up, check the underlayment, subfloor, and joists as closely as possible. If you can get to the floor from below, check the level of the joist tops where it squeaks. If they are not straight, use shims to bring bearing up under the sub floor.  Check the joints between plywood panels to insure there is 1/8" clearance. Finally, as suggested in other posts, screw it down tight. Glue would help, if you can get to the joists. TB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Thank you so much for your helpful replies. I really do appreciate this information and know it will go a long way to solving the problem areas. I have printed each response out and will definitely use the information when we make installation arrangements. Thank you, Joan

Response:

Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls up away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side of the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure for the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap problems on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement using shims, glue, or bracing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

To provide further information, unfortunately, their is drywall downstairs which prevents access to the joist (the construction is on trusses). I say unfortunately, because in hindsight I would definitely prefer a removeable type of drop ceiling right now! I’ll keep printing out each response and reference them as we talk to the installer. Thanks again, Joan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Once the covering is up, check the underlayment, subfloor, and joists as >closely as possible. If you can get to the floor from below, check the level of >the joist tops where it squeaks. If they are not straight, use shims to bring >bearing up under the sub floor.  Check the joints between plywood panels to >insure there is 1/8" clearance. Finally, as suggested in other posts, screw it >down tight. Glue would help, if you can get to the joists. >TB > If you have access to the joists underneath,  you might also > cross-brace them, using 2 x 2’s in an "X".

Response:

Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls up > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side of > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure for > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap problems > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement using > shims, glue, or bracing. > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Yep, you can either use "finish screws" or special Squeeek-no-more screws with snap-off heads. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining > it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the > carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? > Thanks. > Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls > up > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side > of > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure > for > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap > problems > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement > using > shims, glue, or bracing. > > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks > have > > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > > Thank You, > > Joan

Response:

Screws with snap-off heads, eh?  Sounds nice and high tech.  Can’t wait to find/try them.  Thanks very much.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yep, you can either use "finish screws" or special Squeeek-no-more > screws with snap-off heads. > Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining > it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the > carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? > Thanks. > > Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls > up > > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side > of > > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure > for > > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap > problems > > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement > using > > shims, glue, or bracing. > > > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > > years > > > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > > > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > > > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > > > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > > > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks > have > > > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > > problem? > > > Thank You, > > > Joan

Response:

    Why not pull this stuff up yourself and screw down obviously loose boards? Using screws is usually more permanent. Then sprinkle talcum powder and sweep well. That will fill up any spaces left between boards and help prevent future squeaks. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Thanks for the additional suggestion on the talcum powder. I find that interesting. Is there a down side to using talcum powder, say, in the long run? Joan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     Why not pull this stuff up yourself and screw down obviously loose > boards? Using screws is usually more permanent. Then sprinkle talcum powder > and sweep well. That will fill up any spaces left between boards and help > prevent future squeaks. > — > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? Thank You, Joan

Response:

> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be > replacing the kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I > would like to know exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking > the installer to do to permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is > that they will just try to re-nail the squeaky places only to later to > discover that new squeaks have developed. Or, is there just not much > one can do about this type of problem?

If the floor under the lino or carpet is made of softwood floorboards, have the installer screw the boards down rather than re-nailing them. If it’s a sheet material do the same, but with hardboard screws (not wood screws);  the more the better. Harvey

Response:

> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks?

why not pull the lino out yourself, and try fastening the squeaky ares down with deck screws to the subflooring? i wouldnt use nails…  My concern is that they will just try to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Once the covering is up, check the underlayment, subfloor, and joists as closely as possible. If you can get to the floor from below, check the level of the joist tops where it squeaks. If they are not straight, use shims to bring bearing up under the sub floor.  Check the joints between plywood panels to insure there is 1/8" clearance. Finally, as suggested in other posts, screw it down tight. Glue would help, if you can get to the joists. TB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Thank you so much for your helpful replies. I really do appreciate this information and know it will go a long way to solving the problem areas. I have printed each response out and will definitely use the information when we make installation arrangements. Thank you, Joan

Response:

Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls up away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side of the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure for the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap problems on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement using shims, glue, or bracing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

To provide further information, unfortunately, their is drywall downstairs which prevents access to the joist (the construction is on trusses). I say unfortunately, because in hindsight I would definitely prefer a removeable type of drop ceiling right now! I’ll keep printing out each response and reference them as we talk to the installer. Thanks again, Joan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Once the covering is up, check the underlayment, subfloor, and joists as >closely as possible. If you can get to the floor from below, check the level of >the joist tops where it squeaks. If they are not straight, use shims to bring >bearing up under the sub floor.  Check the joints between plywood panels to >insure there is 1/8" clearance. Finally, as suggested in other posts, screw it >down tight. Glue would help, if you can get to the joists. >TB > If you have access to the joists underneath,  you might also > cross-brace them, using 2 x 2’s in an "X".

Response:

Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls up > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side of > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure for > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap problems > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement using > shims, glue, or bracing. > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Yep, you can either use "finish screws" or special Squeeek-no-more screws with snap-off heads. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining > it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the > carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? > Thanks. > Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls > up > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side > of > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure > for > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap > problems > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement > using > shims, glue, or bracing. > > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks > have > > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > > Thank You, > > Joan

Response:

Screws with snap-off heads, eh?  Sounds nice and high tech.  Can’t wait to find/try them.  Thanks very much.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yep, you can either use "finish screws" or special Squeeek-no-more > screws with snap-off heads. > Is it possible to accomplish this through existing carpeting without ruining > it?  Perhaps by using a long, thin screw whose head might pass through the > carpeting material but still stop in the wood below? > Thanks. > > Squeaking is typically caused by wood shrinkage such that the floor pulls > up > > away from the joist, then you get the squeak from it rubbing on the side > of > > the nail.  Or it might not have been glued and nailed down right in the > > areas with problems.  Hopefully you don’t have any structural issues. > > If you know where all the squeaks are you can mark those and the floor can > > be screwed down in those areas.  You can also drill pilot holes and screw > > down the entire floor.  Your house is old enough that hopefully you have > > seen all the squeaks you are likely to get, but if you wanted to be sure > for > > the future, you screw the whole thing down.  Any really serious gap > problems > > on the first floor can be fixed from below with an unfinished basement > using > > shims, glue, or bracing. > > > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > > years > > > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > > > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > > > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > > > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > > > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks > have > > > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > > problem? > > > Thank You, > > > Joan

Response:

    Why not pull this stuff up yourself and screw down obviously loose boards? Using screws is usually more permanent. Then sprinkle talcum powder and sweep well. That will fill up any spaces left between boards and help prevent future squeaks. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response:

Thanks for the additional suggestion on the talcum powder. I find that interesting. Is there a down side to using talcum powder, say, in the long run? Joan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->     Why not pull this stuff up yourself and screw down obviously loose > boards? Using screws is usually more permanent. Then sprinkle talcum powder > and sweep well. That will fill up any spaces left between boards and help > prevent future squeaks. > — > We have a few places in the floors (not hardwood) of our home (22 1/2 > years > old) that have an annoyingly loud squeak. We will soon be replacing the > kitchen linoleum flooring and the house carpet and I would like to know > exactly what "type of repair" we should be asking the installer to do to > permantently fix such squeaks? My concern is that they will just try to > re-nail the squeaky places only to later to discover that new squeaks have > developed. Or, is there just not much one can do about this type of > problem? > Thank You, > Joan

Response: