Question:
>Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and >moving stagnant air.
Good point. I found something that might also be a problem… I’ve only turned the water heater on twice since buying the place. The first time it worked fine, but the next time it didn’t work at all. On inspection I found that it has been leaking, apparently for a while, because it had sunk down into the floor a few inches. While draining it to replace it, I tilted it a bit so the water would all be able to drain out. When I tilted it, it fell through the floor! So now there’s a whole new big job to replace the floor, and then the water heater. But maybe the leaky water heater was enough to provide a moisture level high enough to support the mold problem? If so it might all turn out for the best in the long run, even though it sure is suckin’ at this time.
Response:
We had a small mold problem in our home, thanks to a water leak. In doing a lot of research I discovered that cleanup with plain old bleach is pretty damn effective. Remarkably, bleach straight from the bottle is LESS effective than using it diluted with water at about 1 part bleach to 4 or 5 parts water. Also, it’s much safer to clean up mold while it is a bit damp than waiting for it to fully dry, since the dry spores spread easily. Obviously, wear appropriate masks and protective gear, and dispose of the cleanup materials appropriately. As others have already noted, preventing a recurrence requires cutting off the source of moisture — not an easy task in a boat. You can’t cut off the source of mold, unfortunately, since airborne spores are everywhere. Be cautious about the claims for ozone as a method to control mold. It can work on non-porous surfaces and carpets, but seems much less effective when mold has affected other materials. Also, it can kill the mold without reducing the toxicity of the mold spores and fragments that remain. In heavy concentrations, ozone isn’t great for you and your passengers, either. Alex
Response:
> This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should > get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you > want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will > keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the > mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real > fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. > Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be > showing up. ?? We’ll see. > Jim
I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
Response:
> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. Michael — Michael Rothwell 98 ‘Berg FE400 97 Malibu Echelon Oracle/Sql Server DBA/Developer/Web Enabled DB’s HTTP://www.bdbinc.com/
Response:
> What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. > Michael
I’m embarrassed to say I don’t remember. We replaced *everything* when we bought this house recently. All the air ducts, furnace and A/C and then added the Sterilaire UV light. I’m usually a very smart consumer (checking out prices and such), but I’ve had problems previously with mold and my kids are very sensitive to it. As I said before, I can’t speak to the effectiveness of it, as I can’t say for sure it works. In my case, I’m assuming it will because I’m beginning with a new system and clean ducts. I’m not sure it would do much if you have old, dirty air ducts filled with mold. I can say that Sterilaire’s customer service has been excellent. I had problems with the bulb emitting ozone (they had given me the wrong type of bulb that is supposed to be used for water treatment) and was getting no where with the installer. I called Sterilaire and they immediately diagnosed the problem, apologized profusely and got me the correct bulb. I would also recommend considering the installation of a high quality filtration system if you don’t already have one. They are definitely effective if you have asthmatics in the home.
Response:
>> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck! >What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps.
A couple hundred bucks when I last checked. Tom
Response:
>This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow.
I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent me. How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270.
So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there has been no distribution or growth from such a source. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim > Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and moving stagnant air.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow. > I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few > months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe > there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few > months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost > nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water > is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent > me. > How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with > it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would > grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the > walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why > does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on > only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there > has been no distribution or growth from such a source. >I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim >> Hi, >> In a Google search I found that these news groups have >> discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested >> in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever >> equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It >> grows mostly on my walls and doors. >> Thanks for any help! >> David
Response:
>Hi, >In a Google search I found that these news groups have >discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested >in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever >equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It >grows mostly on my walls and doors.
if you have a problem with mold you better look into why you have so much moisture. then solve that problem and the mold will go away. — Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
Response:
This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be showing up. ?? We’ll see. Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
If that be the case, your not going to stop it with a UV lamp in the AC system if that is the type you are talking about. A UV-C band lamp kills what passes near it, provided its up to full power, and the bulbs are not old, by either bombarding it with UV radiation, or in the case of viri, scrambling the DNA in the cell..so it cant reproduce. You can look around but if you have a severe mold issue, you need to get a qualified person in there to evaluate, and tell you whats going on. I sell the things..but if you have mold growing on the walls, I would not even think about installing one in your place till you allowed someone that specializes in that to look things over…
Response:
Hi, In a Google search I found that these news groups have discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It grows mostly on my walls and doors. Thanks for any help! David
Response:
Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and moving stagnant air.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow. > I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few > months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe > there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few > months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost > nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water > is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent > me. > How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with > it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would > grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the > walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why > does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on > only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there > has been no distribution or growth from such a source. >I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim >> Hi, >> In a Google search I found that these news groups have >> discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested >> in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever >> equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It >> grows mostly on my walls and doors. >> Thanks for any help! >> David
Response:
>This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow.
I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent me. How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270.
So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there has been no distribution or growth from such a source. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim > Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
We had a small mold problem in our home, thanks to a water leak. In doing a lot of research I discovered that cleanup with plain old bleach is pretty damn effective. Remarkably, bleach straight from the bottle is LESS effective than using it diluted with water at about 1 part bleach to 4 or 5 parts water. Also, it’s much safer to clean up mold while it is a bit damp than waiting for it to fully dry, since the dry spores spread easily. Obviously, wear appropriate masks and protective gear, and dispose of the cleanup materials appropriately. As others have already noted, preventing a recurrence requires cutting off the source of moisture — not an easy task in a boat. You can’t cut off the source of mold, unfortunately, since airborne spores are everywhere. Be cautious about the claims for ozone as a method to control mold. It can work on non-porous surfaces and carpets, but seems much less effective when mold has affected other materials. Also, it can kill the mold without reducing the toxicity of the mold spores and fragments that remain. In heavy concentrations, ozone isn’t great for you and your passengers, either. Alex
Response:
>Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and >moving stagnant air.
Good point. I found something that might also be a problem… I’ve only turned the water heater on twice since buying the place. The first time it worked fine, but the next time it didn’t work at all. On inspection I found that it has been leaking, apparently for a while, because it had sunk down into the floor a few inches. While draining it to replace it, I tilted it a bit so the water would all be able to drain out. When I tilted it, it fell through the floor! So now there’s a whole new big job to replace the floor, and then the water heater. But maybe the leaky water heater was enough to provide a moisture level high enough to support the mold problem? If so it might all turn out for the best in the long run, even though it sure is suckin’ at this time.
Response:
>> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck! >What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps.
A couple hundred bucks when I last checked. Tom
Response:
This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be showing up. ?? We’ll see. Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
> This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should > get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you > want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will > keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the > mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real > fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. > Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be > showing up. ?? We’ll see. > Jim
I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
Response:
> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. Michael — Michael Rothwell 98 ‘Berg FE400 97 Malibu Echelon Oracle/Sql Server DBA/Developer/Web Enabled DB’s HTTP://www.bdbinc.com/
Response:
> What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. > Michael
I’m embarrassed to say I don’t remember. We replaced *everything* when we bought this house recently. All the air ducts, furnace and A/C and then added the Sterilaire UV light. I’m usually a very smart consumer (checking out prices and such), but I’ve had problems previously with mold and my kids are very sensitive to it. As I said before, I can’t speak to the effectiveness of it, as I can’t say for sure it works. In my case, I’m assuming it will because I’m beginning with a new system and clean ducts. I’m not sure it would do much if you have old, dirty air ducts filled with mold. I can say that Sterilaire’s customer service has been excellent. I had problems with the bulb emitting ozone (they had given me the wrong type of bulb that is supposed to be used for water treatment) and was getting no where with the installer. I called Sterilaire and they immediately diagnosed the problem, apologized profusely and got me the correct bulb. I would also recommend considering the installation of a high quality filtration system if you don’t already have one. They are definitely effective if you have asthmatics in the home.
Response:
> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
If that be the case, your not going to stop it with a UV lamp in the AC system if that is the type you are talking about. A UV-C band lamp kills what passes near it, provided its up to full power, and the bulbs are not old, by either bombarding it with UV radiation, or in the case of viri, scrambling the DNA in the cell..so it cant reproduce. You can look around but if you have a severe mold issue, you need to get a qualified person in there to evaluate, and tell you whats going on. I sell the things..but if you have mold growing on the walls, I would not even think about installing one in your place till you allowed someone that specializes in that to look things over…
Response:
> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
<Delete multi-cross-posts> UV-C lamps will kill molds by genetically altering cell structure. They will also kill all other living things in the environment. And, you can’t look at the light source. Do a web search for UV – mold. The UV may damage finishes within the interior. Ozone has *not* been proven of any value against mold, despite some claims by mfr’s. It can help with odor control. Ozone is, however, hazardous to health as it is a lung irritant. Here are some sources where you can buy UV lamps: http://www.sharperimagebest.com/si922.html http://www.brite-lite.com/UsShop/Publish/vindex.htm?cat169.htm http://www.light-sources.com/ You may have to supply ballasts and lamp holders. Look for ones that supply only UV-C emission without any ozone. Note that I am not advocating use of a UV source in living space! All that said, the long-term solution is to make the environment unfriendly to mold growth by reducing humidity levels to ~50%. Jim
Response:
Hi, In a Google search I found that these news groups have discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It grows mostly on my walls and doors. Thanks for any help! David
Response:
Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and moving stagnant air.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow. > I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few > months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe > there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few > months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost > nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water > is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent > me. > How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with > it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would > grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the > walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why > does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on > only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there > has been no distribution or growth from such a source. >I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim >> Hi, >> In a Google search I found that these news groups have >> discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested >> in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever >> equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It >> grows mostly on my walls and doors. >> Thanks for any help! >> David
Response:
>This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should >get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you >want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will >keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the >mold to grow.
I don’t know for sure. It has rained almost every day for the past few months, so there’s bound to be a lot of moisture just from that. Maybe there’s a leak under the house or something? I’ve only had it a few months, and haven’t crawled up under it yet. The water bill is almost nothing though, and the water meter doesn’t move when the water is shut off…I made sure of that due to an incorrect water bill they sent me. How much does the particular surrounding area have to do with it? I’ve never had a problem like this anywhere else. Some mold would grow on leather or in the bathroom etc, but not on large portions of the walls, and on doors, and all over the place like this. And also, why does it grow on two walls in a room, but not on the other two. Or on only one wall, or on one side of a door but not the other? >However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real >fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. >Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270.
So far I haven’t even used the heating or AC systems, so there has been no distribution or growth from such a source. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be >showing up. ?? We’ll see. >Jim > Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
We had a small mold problem in our home, thanks to a water leak. In doing a lot of research I discovered that cleanup with plain old bleach is pretty damn effective. Remarkably, bleach straight from the bottle is LESS effective than using it diluted with water at about 1 part bleach to 4 or 5 parts water. Also, it’s much safer to clean up mold while it is a bit damp than waiting for it to fully dry, since the dry spores spread easily. Obviously, wear appropriate masks and protective gear, and dispose of the cleanup materials appropriately. As others have already noted, preventing a recurrence requires cutting off the source of moisture — not an easy task in a boat. You can’t cut off the source of mold, unfortunately, since airborne spores are everywhere. Be cautious about the claims for ozone as a method to control mold. It can work on non-porous surfaces and carpets, but seems much less effective when mold has affected other materials. Also, it can kill the mold without reducing the toxicity of the mold spores and fragments that remain. In heavy concentrations, ozone isn’t great for you and your passengers, either. Alex
Response:
>Perhaps using the system will help by improving overall ventilation and >moving stagnant air.
Good point. I found something that might also be a problem… I’ve only turned the water heater on twice since buying the place. The first time it worked fine, but the next time it didn’t work at all. On inspection I found that it has been leaking, apparently for a while, because it had sunk down into the floor a few inches. While draining it to replace it, I tilted it a bit so the water would all be able to drain out. When I tilted it, it fell through the floor! So now there’s a whole new big job to replace the floor, and then the water heater. But maybe the leaky water heater was enough to provide a moisture level high enough to support the mold problem? If so it might all turn out for the best in the long run, even though it sure is suckin’ at this time.
Response:
>> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck! >What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps.
A couple hundred bucks when I last checked. Tom
Response:
This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be showing up. ?? We’ll see. Jim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
Response:
> This is the system I’d check into. http://www.sterile-aire.com/ You should > get someone to look at your problem though. You can kill all the mold you > want with these things but if you don’t stop the root of the problem it will > keep coming back. Root = where is the moisture coming from to allow the > mold to grow. However, stopping the root problem can get expensive real > fast depending on your situation. C band UV is the way to go though. > Specifically from the wave lengths 255 to 270. > I’ve posted a couple time in the last few months and it doesn’t seem to be > showing up. ?? We’ll see. > Jim
I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
Response:
> I actually had a Sterilaire installed with my new HVAC system a few months > ago. From what I understand, the goal of my unit is to keep mold from > growing on the coil and prevent it from being spread via the air ducts. I > agree with others that the key is to eliminate the moisture problem that is > causing the mold in the first place. Best of luck!
What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. Michael — Michael Rothwell 98 ‘Berg FE400 97 Malibu Echelon Oracle/Sql Server DBA/Developer/Web Enabled DB’s HTTP://www.bdbinc.com/
Response:
> What was the cost on that? Two asthmatics in the house, every little bit helps. > Michael
I’m embarrassed to say I don’t remember. We replaced *everything* when we bought this house recently. All the air ducts, furnace and A/C and then added the Sterilaire UV light. I’m usually a very smart consumer (checking out prices and such), but I’ve had problems previously with mold and my kids are very sensitive to it. As I said before, I can’t speak to the effectiveness of it, as I can’t say for sure it works. In my case, I’m assuming it will because I’m beginning with a new system and clean ducts. I’m not sure it would do much if you have old, dirty air ducts filled with mold. I can say that Sterilaire’s customer service has been excellent. I had problems with the bulb emitting ozone (they had given me the wrong type of bulb that is supposed to be used for water treatment) and was getting no where with the installer. I called Sterilaire and they immediately diagnosed the problem, apologized profusely and got me the correct bulb. I would also recommend considering the installation of a high quality filtration system if you don’t already have one. They are definitely effective if you have asthmatics in the home.
Response:
> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
If that be the case, your not going to stop it with a UV lamp in the AC system if that is the type you are talking about. A UV-C band lamp kills what passes near it, provided its up to full power, and the bulbs are not old, by either bombarding it with UV radiation, or in the case of viri, scrambling the DNA in the cell..so it cant reproduce. You can look around but if you have a severe mold issue, you need to get a qualified person in there to evaluate, and tell you whats going on. I sell the things..but if you have mold growing on the walls, I would not even think about installing one in your place till you allowed someone that specializes in that to look things over…
Response:
> Hi, > In a Google search I found that these news groups have > discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested > in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever > equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It > grows mostly on my walls and doors. > Thanks for any help! > David
<Delete multi-cross-posts> UV-C lamps will kill molds by genetically altering cell structure. They will also kill all other living things in the environment. And, you can’t look at the light source. Do a web search for UV – mold. The UV may damage finishes within the interior. Ozone has *not* been proven of any value against mold, despite some claims by mfr’s. It can help with odor control. Ozone is, however, hazardous to health as it is a lung irritant. Here are some sources where you can buy UV lamps: http://www.sharperimagebest.com/si922.html http://www.brite-lite.com/UsShop/Publish/vindex.htm?cat169.htm http://www.light-sources.com/ You may have to supply ballasts and lamp holders. Look for ones that supply only UV-C emission without any ozone. Note that I am not advocating use of a UV source in living space! All that said, the long-term solution is to make the environment unfriendly to mold growth by reducing humidity levels to ~50%. Jim
Response:
Hi, In a Google search I found that these news groups have discussed the control of mold using UV light. I’m interested in the best way of doing that, where to get whatever equipment is needed, and any advice or suggestions. It grows mostly on my walls and doors. Thanks for any help! David
Response:
Posted in Home Furnace | 
No Comments » | 
Mr. Heavens cites Pieter VanderWerf, a "professor of management at Boston University" who did statistics on 29 concrete and 29 frame houses in 1997 and concluded "the insulation qualities of concrete saved the typical homeowner $221 a year for heating and $89 for cooling," and "The percentage of energy saving showed no discernible relationship to local climate." He tentatively concluded that "…these rates of savings should be fairly constant, regardless of location." A Google search on Pieter VanderWerf shows a National Concrete Masonry Association reference which seems to indicate that Dr. VanderWerf is more than a disinterested management professor–that he is also presidents of Christy Concrete Products and Building Works, Inc., and the Portland Cement Association flies him around the country. Here’s one web review of Dr. VanderWerf’s $49.95 book, "The Portland Cement Association’s Guide to Concrete Homebuilding Systems": Not a How to Book This is the first book I have ever returned to Amazon. I was looking for a book to tell me "How To". This book is more advertising than anything else. Here’s a letter in the January/February 1999 issue of Home Energy Magazine: Field Testing ICF Article I wish Home Energy would be more careful in publishing "technical" articles such as the one on ICFs ("Foam Forms Bring Concrete Results," July/Aug ‘98, p. 27). The ICF industry has consistently avoided the field testing of its product until very recently, unabashedly claiming R-values of up to R-60 without any documentation other than hazily described "research" that is never submitted for review. Even the newest "study" by Dr. VanderWerf is more pseudoscience than anything else. It is not inconceivable that a difference in conditioning energy of 40% could be found between a two-story-with-basement house insulated with ICFs and one with modest levels of above-grade wall insulation and bare concrete basement walls. However, to assert this has been proven through the "research" from the report is dishonest and should be regarded with extreme skepticism. A matched-pair study design is used to measure savings; however, there is not enough detail in the report to establish whether the "savings" reported by the author are due to anything other than chance. We are not told the actual R-values of the components in the houses, the window areas and U-values, or the infiltration rates. We must assume they are identical (save for the wall type); the study does not document that they are. There is no mention of the types of heating system in the matched pairs; that is, one could contain a ducted heating system and the other zonal heat. The climates used for comparison are not carefully described, so a matched pair in the "Canada" district could conceivably pair a house in a maritime climate with a house on the open prairie. There are many other potential sources of error that are not carefully addressed in VanderWerf’s report. The Portland Cement Foundation (sponsors of the report) would have better spent their money in a more closely controlled prototype analysis in a few climates. In fact, guarded hot-box tests have now been performed on several ICF walls and have found R-values in a range that seems reasonable (R-17 to R-25), given the wall materials and my own experience modeling several of these walls with contemporary simulation programs (under hire to various ICF manufacturers)… Bob Davis Ecotope Seattle, Washington Dr. VanderWerf responds: Many thanks to Bob Davis for raising important and useful issues. Some of Mr. Davis’s concerns are covered in our report. We tested the possible role of chance by the conventional method, the confidence interval. This indicated that the savings, with over 97% confidence, were not the result of chance alone. Air infiltration is not assumed to be constant. In fact, we know from blower door tests that it is significantly lower in homes with ICF walls. Reduced infiltration is actually believed to be the greatest single factor accounting for the lower energy consumption of ICF homes. A few of Mr. Davis’s concerns were unfortunately not covered because of the summary nature of the report. During our study, we did determine several details of the HVAC systems used and we corrected for differences. Matched pairs of houses were within 2 miles of each other in 80% of all cases; in a few situations we were forced to go as far as 20 miles to get a fair match. A few of Mr. Davis’s other concerns are about statistical research in general. In any research, it is impossible to control for all variables. Monitoring and measurement studies cope by eliminating or controlling as many sources of variation as are practical. Statistical studies measure and correct for some variation, and determine whether other sources of variation might introduce biases. The researcher checks independent data or a subsample to make sure that uncontrolled variables (for example, fenestration) do not tend to be significantly different for some groups (for example, ICF houses) than for others. We did this and discussed it in our report. With these conditions, statistical theorems show that point estimates (for example, average energy savings) will still be valid. If one does not accept this principle, one should reject our study along with all statistical field research. Three implied statements in the letter trouble me. The first is that the energy performance of ICF walls can be characterized by their R-value. Work at Oak Ridge National Laboratory and 
/ Some builders are putting rigid foam insulation between the earth and concrete, even under the foundation and concrete pad to turn the concrete into a huge thermal mass isolated from both outside and the earth, claiming low heating costs for that. 