Question:
> I used Nature’s Miracle and loved it. It does say to saturate the carpet, but > LOL! there is a happy medium. I would suspect that the padding of the carpet is > probably mildewed from the over saturation. Also, the directions on the > nature’s miracle tells you to first soak up the spo with a towel first, t if > it is fresh to remove the urine.
<snip> Before NM type products were around, we used to cover urine stains with corn starch. It draws the urine right out, and can be easily cleaned up/vacuumed away. We’re still using it before applying the enzyme products. Haven’t experienced any problems (and it’s easier than using a towel.)
Response:
Thanks for the tip!!!!! It can come in handy!!!! Good to know! Marjorie + Jack Flash (throughout eternity) …two hearts, two hearts that beat as one…. …you know it’s true, everything I do, I do it for you…
Response:
We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid of(smell from dog’s coat) It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
Response:
I used Nature’s Miracle and loved it. It does say to saturate the carpet, but LOL! there is a happy medium. I would suspect that the padding of the carpet is probably mildewed from the over saturation. Also, the directions on the nature’s miracle tells you to first soak up the spo with a towel first, t if it is fresh to remove the urine. Then you saturate only the problem spot. I never had a problem with Nature’s Miracle, and it worked on everything, from urine to diarrhea! (Yes, even on white carpets!) Marjorie + Jack Flash (throughout eternity) …two hearts, two hearts that beat as one…. …you know it’s true, everything I do, I do it for you…
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor > out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning > carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I > used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The > next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid > of(smell from dog’s coat) > It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the > odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better > and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
I don’t know much about "Nature’s Miracle"; haven’t used it. I see it mentioned all the time on the newsgroups, and it seems to have about a 50/50 success rate amongst those who mention it. Of course, this depends on the *severity* of the problem. Usually, it is used to remove urine deposits from pets, and this is *always* difficult. You have to understand some basics about "enzyme" products. First, enzymes are often basically products which produce strain(s) of bacteria which in turn produce certain enzymes as they function. These enzymes can accomplish certain tasks, and often these products may produce more than one enzyme. They may produce enzymes which digest urine, or feces, or proteins (like blood, foods, eggs), or oils. Once they have digested all the organic matter, they "die". One of the toughest cleaning problems is heavily soiled restaurant carpet. The heavy traffic, the food and beverage spills, and the airborne oils from the cooking process all end-up in the carpet, which is a "sink" (the EPA’s word). Even using a high quality detergent and the most powerful truck mounted extractor, cleaning this type of carpet is difficult, mostly due to oily soiling. However, prespraying the carpet with a *warm* (120–150 degrees F) enzyme product, allowing 15–20 minutes of "dwell time", and then starting to clean, makes all the difference in the world. The greasy, oily soil almost "jumps" into the wand, and the carpet looks spectacular; the enzyme really is effective. Most enzyme products only work with hot water under 150 degrees F; if I run them through my truck mount which produces 230F water, the enzyme will not work as the high heat kills the bacteria. Likewise, mixing with either an alkaline cleaning detergent or an acid rinse product will also kill the bacteria. No bacteria–no enzyme. No water–no bacteria–no enzyme. No heat–no bacteria growth–no enzyme. Too much heat, or alkalinity or acidity–no bacteria–no enzyme. Now, there are some *new* enzyme products out which can withstand both high heat, and mixing with other cleaning agents. I use one, for *cleaning*, and I have great success with it. I also enjoy great success with enzymes in odor situations where the odor is in SMALL AREAS. The way I use it, is to apply the warm (120–150F) enzyme to the carpet, wetting out but not saturating. I then place a towel that is wet (not dripping) with hot tap water over the area. Then I place a bucket full of hot water on top of the towel. This provideds the heat and moisture for the bacteria to grow. As they grow, they secrete the enzymes which digest the organic matter. It takes several hours to do this, *usually*, so the bucket is periodically emptied, and it and the towel are both "filled" with fresh, hot water. Now you should be able to see why enzymes WILL NOT work on large areas over a period of time, as you have to keep the area wet and warm, and that is difficult in a *room* full of urine saturated carpet, and remember, the pad and the subfloor are also *saturated* with urine. Spraying an entire room to remove the odor will produce your results…as the enzymes work, the odor can be *intense*. If the carpet is kept wet for several days while the enzyme works, you are in danger of delaminating the carpet, which means the backings holding the tufts in place will separate; **long** exposure to water can make the latex glue layer holding primary and secondary backing together dissolve. On the other hand, it can take days for the bacteria to reproduce and then digest at levels capable of eliminating the organic matter. This is *why* the use of enzymes is difficult on *large* jobs. However, where enzymes can work *great* is on a urine contaminated Oriental rug. Please note the differences from the above. I place the rug, say a 10′ by 12′, rolled and prevacuumed, in a large *tank*. Fill with warm water. Add a gallon or two of an enzyme product. Walk away. In a day, the entire warehouse will smell so bad it can hardly be believed. I dump the water, spray down the rug, and start again. Usually it takes 1 to 4 days. With a rug *submerged*. I **guarantee** that I can remove **100%** of the odor from an area rug in this manner. Rinse the rug thoroughly, clean, and dry. I can’t make that same guarantee with an installed carpet; I can’t **soak** it. *Spectacular* results with *soaking*. Horrible, smelly process, but it is worth it on valuable rugs; I once bought an Oriental for $10 which was so bad they basically gave it to me. I cleaned it in this manner, and was offered $4500 for it by a dealer. In your case, I would suggest a professional cleaner. I would spray your carpet with an enzyme product, and then clean. Probably follow with another type of deodorizing agent, allowing sufficient dwell time for both it and the initial enzyme to work, and clean and rinse again. I had very good luck using this procedure on a carpet which had a terrible "doggy" smell from the oils in the dog’s coat and skin. On the other hand, I have not always enjoyed complete success. One home we tried to fix was was a complete failure, but we did warn the owner. Her father and his old dog lived there, and the house smelled so bad, it made my eyes water. I was *sure* it wouldn’t work but the daughter was insistent I try, so after a discussion on pricing, I worked on it. I worked for hours on it, and it was a marked improvement but this was simply a replacement job. Enzymes can take **days** to work, and in that time frame, they are clearly impractical in many situations. Despite the hype, and the claims. They are *excellent* products in *specific* situations. As a general statement, after several years of speciality cleaning and restoration jobs, I now believe that the toughest jobs I get are always deodorization/decontamination jobs. They are almost impossible to perform to complete satisfaction the first time, as there are always microscopic, *invisible* areas where odor causing agents remain. Almost any structure or contents can be decontaminated, but the trick is, can it be cost effective? Removing 99% of the decontamination is *easy*; the final 1% can be very tough. Mark IICRC Certified Master Cleaning Technician IICRC Certified Master Restoration Technician
Response:
We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid of(smell from dog’s coat) It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor > out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning > carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I > used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The > next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid > of(smell from dog’s coat) > It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the > odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better > and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
I don’t know much about "Nature’s Miracle"; haven’t used it. I see it mentioned all the time on the newsgroups, and it seems to have about a 50/50 success rate amongst those who mention it. Of course, this depends on the *severity* of the problem. Usually, it is used to remove urine deposits from pets, and this is *always* difficult. You have to understand some basics about "enzyme" products. First, enzymes are often basically products which produce strain(s) of bacteria which in turn produce certain enzymes as they function. These enzymes can accomplish certain tasks, and often these products may produce more than one enzyme. They may produce enzymes which digest urine, or feces, or proteins (like blood, foods, eggs), or oils. Once they have digested all the organic matter, they "die". One of the toughest cleaning problems is heavily soiled restaurant carpet. The heavy traffic, the food and beverage spills, and the airborne oils from the cooking process all end-up in the carpet, which is a "sink" (the EPA’s word). Even using a high quality detergent and the most powerful truck mounted extractor, cleaning this type of carpet is difficult, mostly due to oily soiling. However, prespraying the carpet with a *warm* (120–150 degrees F) enzyme product, allowing 15–20 minutes of "dwell time", and then starting to clean, makes all the difference in the world. The greasy, oily soil almost "jumps" into the wand, and the carpet looks spectacular; the enzyme really is effective. Most enzyme products only work with hot water under 150 degrees F; if I run them through my truck mount which produces 230F water, the enzyme will not work as the high heat kills the bacteria. Likewise, mixing with either an alkaline cleaning detergent or an acid rinse product will also kill the bacteria. No bacteria–no enzyme. No water–no bacteria–no enzyme. No heat–no bacteria growth–no enzyme. Too much heat, or alkalinity or acidity–no bacteria–no enzyme. Now, there are some *new* enzyme products out which can withstand both high heat, and mixing with other cleaning agents. I use one, for *cleaning*, and I have great success with it. I also enjoy great success with enzymes in odor situations where the odor is in SMALL AREAS. The way I use it, is to apply the warm (120–150F) enzyme to the carpet, wetting out but not saturating. I then place a towel that is wet (not dripping) with hot tap water over the area. Then I place a bucket full of hot water on top of the towel. This provideds the heat and moisture for the bacteria to grow. As they grow, they secrete the enzymes which digest the organic matter. It takes several hours to do this, *usually*, so the bucket is periodically emptied, and it and the towel are both "filled" with fresh, hot water. Now you should be able to see why enzymes WILL NOT work on large areas over a period of time, as you have to keep the area wet and warm, and that is difficult in a *room* full of urine saturated carpet, and remember, the pad and the subfloor are also *saturated* with urine. Spraying an entire room to remove the odor will produce your results…as the enzymes work, the odor can be *intense*. If the carpet is kept wet for several days while the enzyme works, you are in danger of delaminating the carpet, which means the backings holding the tufts in place will separate; **long** exposure to water can make the latex glue layer holding primary and secondary backing together dissolve. On the other hand, it can take days for the bacteria to reproduce and then digest at levels capable of eliminating the organic matter. This is *why* the use of enzymes is difficult on *large* jobs. However, where enzymes can work *great* is on a urine contaminated Oriental rug. Please note the differences from the above. I place the rug, say a 10′ by 12′, rolled and prevacuumed, in a large *tank*. Fill with warm water. Add a gallon or two of an enzyme product. Walk away. In a day, the entire warehouse will smell so bad it can hardly be believed. I dump the water, spray down the rug, and start again. Usually it takes 1 to 4 days. With a rug *submerged*. I **guarantee** that I can remove **100%** of the odor from an area rug in this manner. Rinse the rug thoroughly, clean, and dry. I can’t make that same guarantee with an installed carpet; I can’t **soak** it. *Spectacular* results with *soaking*. Horrible, smelly process, but it is worth it on valuable rugs; I once bought an Oriental for $10 which was so bad they basically gave it to me. I cleaned it in this manner, and was offered $4500 for it by a dealer. In your case, I would suggest a professional cleaner. I would spray your carpet with an enzyme product, and then clean. Probably follow with another type of deodorizing agent, allowing sufficient dwell time for both it and the initial enzyme to work, and clean and rinse again. I had very good luck using this procedure on a carpet which had a terrible "doggy" smell from the oils in the dog’s coat and skin. On the other hand, I have not always enjoyed complete success. One home we tried to fix was was a complete failure, but we did warn the owner. Her father and his old dog lived there, and the house smelled so bad, it made my eyes water. I was *sure* it wouldn’t work but the daughter was insistent I try, so after a discussion on pricing, I worked on it. I worked for hours on it, and it was a marked improvement but this was simply a replacement job. Enzymes can take **days** to work, and in that time frame, they are clearly impractical in many situations. Despite the hype, and the claims. They are *excellent* products in *specific* situations. As a general statement, after several years of speciality cleaning and restoration jobs, I now believe that the toughest jobs I get are always deodorization/decontamination jobs. They are almost impossible to perform to complete satisfaction the first time, as there are always microscopic, *invisible* areas where odor causing agents remain. Almost any structure or contents can be decontaminated, but the trick is, can it be cost effective? Removing 99% of the decontamination is *easy*; the final 1% can be very tough. Mark IICRC Certified Master Cleaning Technician IICRC Certified Master Restoration Technician
Response:
We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid of(smell from dog’s coat) It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor > out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning > carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I > used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The > next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid > of(smell from dog’s coat) > It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the > odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better > and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
I don’t know much about "Nature’s Miracle"; haven’t used it. I see it mentioned all the time on the newsgroups, and it seems to have about a 50/50 success rate amongst those who mention it. Of course, this depends on the *severity* of the problem. Usually, it is used to remove urine deposits from pets, and this is *always* difficult. You have to understand some basics about "enzyme" products. First, enzymes are often basically products which produce strain(s) of bacteria which in turn produce certain enzymes as they function. These enzymes can accomplish certain tasks, and often these products may produce more than one enzyme. They may produce enzymes which digest urine, or feces, or proteins (like blood, foods, eggs), or oils. Once they have digested all the organic matter, they "die". One of the toughest cleaning problems is heavily soiled restaurant carpet. The heavy traffic, the food and beverage spills, and the airborne oils from the cooking process all end-up in the carpet, which is a "sink" (the EPA’s word). Even using a high quality detergent and the most powerful truck mounted extractor, cleaning this type of carpet is difficult, mostly due to oily soiling. However, prespraying the carpet with a *warm* (120–150 degrees F) enzyme product, allowing 15–20 minutes of "dwell time", and then starting to clean, makes all the difference in the world. The greasy, oily soil almost "jumps" into the wand, and the carpet looks spectacular; the enzyme really is effective. Most enzyme products only work with hot water under 150 degrees F; if I run them through my truck mount which produces 230F water, the enzyme will not work as the high heat kills the bacteria. Likewise, mixing with either an alkaline cleaning detergent or an acid rinse product will also kill the bacteria. No bacteria–no enzyme. No water–no bacteria–no enzyme. No heat–no bacteria growth–no enzyme. Too much heat, or alkalinity or acidity–no bacteria–no enzyme. Now, there are some *new* enzyme products out which can withstand both high heat, and mixing with other cleaning agents. I use one, for *cleaning*, and I have great success with it. I also enjoy great success with enzymes in odor situations where the odor is in SMALL AREAS. The way I use it, is to apply the warm (120–150F) enzyme to the carpet, wetting out but not saturating. I then place a towel that is wet (not dripping) with hot tap water over the area. Then I place a bucket full of hot water on top of the towel. This provideds the heat and moisture for the bacteria to grow. As they grow, they secrete the enzymes which digest the organic matter. It takes several hours to do this, *usually*, so the bucket is periodically emptied, and it and the towel are both "filled" with fresh, hot water. Now you should be able to see why enzymes WILL NOT work on large areas over a period of time, as you have to keep the area wet and warm, and that is difficult in a *room* full of urine saturated carpet, and remember, the pad and the subfloor are also *saturated* with urine. Spraying an entire room to remove the odor will produce your results…as the enzymes work, the odor can be *intense*. If the carpet is kept wet for several days while the enzyme works, you are in danger of delaminating the carpet, which means the backings holding the tufts in place will separate; **long** exposure to water can make the latex glue layer holding primary and secondary backing together dissolve. On the other hand, it can take days for the bacteria to reproduce and then digest at levels capable of eliminating the organic matter. This is *why* the use of enzymes is difficult on *large* jobs. However, where enzymes can work *great* is on a urine contaminated Oriental rug. Please note the differences from the above. I place the rug, say a 10′ by 12′, rolled and prevacuumed, in a large *tank*. Fill with warm water. Add a gallon or two of an enzyme product. Walk away. In a day, the entire warehouse will smell so bad it can hardly be believed. I dump the water, spray down the rug, and start again. Usually it takes 1 to 4 days. With a rug *submerged*. I **guarantee** that I can remove **100%** of the odor from an area rug in this manner. Rinse the rug thoroughly, clean, and dry. I can’t make that same guarantee with an installed carpet; I can’t **soak** it. *Spectacular* results with *soaking*. Horrible, smelly process, but it is worth it on valuable rugs; I once bought an Oriental for $10 which was so bad they basically gave it to me. I cleaned it in this manner, and was offered $4500 for it by a dealer. In your case, I would suggest a professional cleaner. I would spray your carpet with an enzyme product, and then clean. Probably follow with another type of deodorizing agent, allowing sufficient dwell time for both it and the initial enzyme to work, and clean and rinse again. I had very good luck using this procedure on a carpet which had a terrible "doggy" smell from the oils in the dog’s coat and skin. On the other hand, I have not always enjoyed complete success. One home we tried to fix was was a complete failure, but we did warn the owner. Her father and his old dog lived there, and the house smelled so bad, it made my eyes water. I was *sure* it wouldn’t work but the daughter was insistent I try, so after a discussion on pricing, I worked on it. I worked for hours on it, and it was a marked improvement but this was simply a replacement job. Enzymes can take **days** to work, and in that time frame, they are clearly impractical in many situations. Despite the hype, and the claims. They are *excellent* products in *specific* situations. As a general statement, after several years of speciality cleaning and restoration jobs, I now believe that the toughest jobs I get are always deodorization/decontamination jobs. They are almost impossible to perform to complete satisfaction the first time, as there are always microscopic, *invisible* areas where odor causing agents remain. Almost any structure or contents can be decontaminated, but the trick is, can it be cost effective? Removing 99% of the decontamination is *easy*; the final 1% can be very tough. Mark IICRC Certified Master Cleaning Technician IICRC Certified Master Restoration Technician
Response:
We bought a product to get odor out of carpet. I think it was called "Odor out". It is made by the same company that makes a dry cleaning carpet method. The instructions were to make sure the carpet was really wet. I used a garden sprayer. When it was done, there was an clean, alcohol odor. The next morning, the smell was 100 times worse than what we were trying to get rid of(smell from dog’s coat) It has now been 10 days. We are airing the room. Is there a chance that the odor will still go away? I read that "Natures Miracle" gets worse before better and can take 2 weeks. Any chance that this product is similar? Jo
If you like this post and would like to receive updates from this blog, please subscribe our feed.