Consumer Homes.

Question:

I want to replace the vinyl flooring in my kitchen with a laminate wood flooring. My dogs (little ones) race through the house, or chase the ball I roll across the floor. Slide on the floor. Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up? What brand did you  install. Thanks Tom F.

Response:

>Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up?

We are looking into doing this, but haven’t done it yet.  Consumer Reports did a write up on it and told what brands were more scratch-resistent.  If you go to their website you can get a on-line trial membership and look it up there. I think one of the the more scratch-resistent ones they tested was a new line Pergo put out, but I can’t remember the name.  Sorry!   Laura of NC If you can’t be a good example, then you’ll just have to be a horrible warning.  -Catherine Aird-

Response:

> I want to replace the vinyl flooring in my kitchen with a laminate wood > flooring. My dogs (little ones) race through the house, or chase the ball I > roll across the floor. Slide on the floor. > Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up? > What brand did you  install. > Thanks Tom F.

I have 8 dogs and 2 cats and Pergo flooring.  No problems, I like it alot. It shines up nicely with vinegar and water. M

Response:

> I want to replace the vinyl flooring in my kitchen with a laminate wood > flooring. My dogs (little ones) race through the house, or chase the ball I > roll across the floor. Slide on the floor. > Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up? > What brand did you  install. > Thanks Tom F.

Tom, About 18 months ago I had WilsonArt laminate flooring installed in my house.  I can vouch for its resistance to scratches but warn you that it is NOT NEARLY as moisture-resistant as promised by the salesman.  Just one puddle left by my younger dog left the seams peaked and rippled (very noticeable when sunlight shines on the floor).  As laminate flooring is not an inexpensive option, seriously consider before you commit. Best of luck, Meredith

Response:

said: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I want to replace the vinyl flooring in my kitchen with a laminate wood > flooring. My dogs (little ones) race through the house, or chase the ball I > roll across the floor. Slide on the floor. > Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up? > What brand did you  install. > Thanks Tom F. >Tom, >About 18 months ago I had WilsonArt laminate flooring installed in my house.  I >can vouch for its resistance to scratches but warn you that it is NOT NEARLY as >moisture-resistant as promised by the salesman.  Just one puddle left by my >younger dog left the seams peaked and rippled (very noticeable when sunlight >shines on the floor).  As laminate flooring is not an inexpensive option, >seriously consider before you commit.

A friend of mine has Pergo, and is on her second dog with the floor. It still looks new. When I bring my dog over there and they play tug together, one pulls the other around on the floor, scraping nails as they go, and leave no marks. I don’t know about water/moisture, but she’s also had four children and all their friends on that floor, and I don’t see marks. ` Mary – http://www.prado.com/~iris "We will not last and we know we will not — and we still write, carve, build, paint, and plant to last. We are, it seems to me, very, very brave." – Linda Ellerbee

Response:

I replaced my carpeting with Armstrong’s laminate flooring over 2 yrs ago. I have 7 dogs and 4 cats and the only thing scratched around here is the arm of my very expensive leather sofa by the BLACK CAT!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > said: >> I want to replace the vinyl flooring in my kitchen with a laminate wood >> flooring. My dogs (little ones) race through the house, or chase the ball I >> roll across the floor. Slide on the floor. >> Do you have a laminate wood floor, are the dogs toe nails tearing it up? >> What brand did you  install. >> Thanks Tom F. >Tom, >About 18 months ago I had WilsonArt laminate flooring installed in my house.  I >can vouch for its resistance to scratches but warn you that it is NOT NEARLY as >moisture-resistant as promised by the salesman.  Just one puddle left by my >younger dog left the seams peaked and rippled (very noticeable when sunlight >shines on the floor).  As laminate flooring is not an inexpensive option, >seriously consider before you commit. > A friend of mine has Pergo, and is on her second dog with the floor. > It still looks new. When I bring my dog over there and they play tug > together, one pulls the other around on the floor, scraping nails as > they go, and leave no marks. I don’t know about water/moisture, but > she’s also had four children and all their friends on that floor, and > I don’t see marks. > ` > Mary – http://www.prado.com/~iris > "We will not last and we know we will not — and we still write, carve, > build, paint, and plant to last. We are, it seems to me, very, very > brave." – Linda Ellerbee

Response:

>I replaced my carpeting with Armstrong’s laminate flooring over 2 yrs ago.

Thanks everybody for your experience with laminate flooring.  I didn’t ask the question, but DH and I are thinking about it right now also. Laura of NC If you can’t be a good example, then you’ll just have to be a horrible warning.  -Catherine Aird-

Response:

Question:

The Pergo and other laminate floors cut very eaisly if you use the right tool.  NOT A JIGSAW, but a circular saw (table saw is even better if you have one – but not required). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I also purchase mine from Home Depot and rented their installation kit which > included the video. The most difficult task was cutting this stuff. Perhaps > I did not have the right saw bit for my jigsaw, but I could not get a clean > edge on the cut. It took the two of use one day to install it on a 21′X10′ > room. We took a long time to decide which wall we were going start first. We > finally decided to start from the wall with the entrance from the hallway > and use a full length at that point. This was because there is usually more > traffic from the hallway to the room at that point so I didn’t want to make > a joint there. > >I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor > Purchased mine at Home Depot and installed it myself with no problem. The > only > glue involved is in joints and as far as I know, Pergo has no product that > glues to the floor. I purchased "Original Pergo" with instructions > followed to > the "T". I also purchased the instruction video from HD and returned it > for a > refund when I returned the excess stuff I didn’t use. It’s truly great > stuff > and will give you no problem if installed properly (just follow > directions). > Regards,

Response:

wilsonart is MILES better than pergo.  check ifloor.com for some good info, but in the world of laminate flooring, pergo is considered bottom-of-the-barrel (in terms of quality, construction, durability, style). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor (currently, > concrete with vinyl tile squares over it).  The guy who’s finishing my basement > says he’s never installed Pergo before.  It’s not the new "floating" Pergo, > this is the original that takes glue.   > How hard is it to install? > And is Wilsonart flooring (the Pergo imitator)  a better buy?  Home Depot > doesn’t carry it, I’m pretty sure Loew’s does. > One more questions for those familiar with Pergo:  My sister had it installed > in her basement last year and is very happy with it.  When she bought her > floor, the guy helping her said she had picked a good style, and that some > styles didn’t look so real.  I’ve picked Original Heart Pine, and I’m wondering > if that’s one of the "good" choices, or if that’s one of the bad choices that > looks fake.  The Home Depot person helping me wasn’t familiar with Pergo and > didn’t know. > Thanks! > Teresa

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Response:

>wilsonart is MILES better than pergo.  check ifloor.com for some good >info, but in the world of laminate flooring, pergo is considered >bottom-of-the-barrel (in terms of quality, construction, durability, >style).

Do you happen to remember offhand why Wilsonart is better?  And what the downside is to Pergo? Thanks so much for your information, I’ll check out ifloor.com Teresa

Response:

last time i held a pergo plank in my hand, the back was made of paper/cardboard. wilsonart has a plastic backing. colors are WAY better on wilsonart.  people walk into my condo and always say "nice maple floor."  looks realistic. > Do you happen to remember offhand why Wilsonart is better?  And what the > downside is to Pergo? > Thanks so much for your information, I’ll check out ifloor.com > Teresa

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Response:

Yeh…Check this out….I installed the basement floor with the wilsonart classic $3.79 square foot without install.  The stuff looked so good the home owner is now having the study and great room and entry done with the stuff. It looks killer.  Although natural wood is much nicer.  This fake stuff is practical and looks sharp. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > last time i held a pergo plank in my hand, the back was made of > paper/cardboard. > wilsonart has a plastic backing. > colors are WAY better on wilsonart.  people walk into my condo and always > say "nice maple floor."  looks realistic. > Do you happen to remember offhand why Wilsonart is better?  And what the > downside is to Pergo? > Thanks so much for your information, I’ll check out ifloor.com > Teresa > —

Response:

once again, i have to question the "much nicer."  i have many friends with wood floors.  the wood floors look "nicer"….not by much….for only the first 6 months after refinishing/installation. wood floors take on wear and tear.  that’s ok, and for many, part of the charm. for me, i love the fact that years later, my wilsonart flooring looks like a real maple floor that was installed yesterday. no scratches, dings, warping, bending, twisting, gaps, marks, etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Yeh…Check this out….I installed the basement floor with the wilsonart > classic $3.79 square foot without install.  The stuff looked so good the home > owner is now having the study and great room and entry done with the stuff. > It looks killer.  Although natural wood is much nicer.  This fake stuff is > practical and looks sharp. > last time i held a pergo plank in my hand, the back was made of > paper/cardboard. > wilsonart has a plastic backing. > colors are WAY better on wilsonart.  people walk into my condo and always > say "nice maple floor."  looks realistic. > > Do you happen to remember offhand why Wilsonart is better?  And what the > > downside is to Pergo? > > Thanks so much for your information, I’ll check out ifloor.com > > Teresa > —

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Response:

Actually the feel of a properly installed wood floor is a lot different than a floating wilsonart floor.  When a wood floor takes on wear, it required maintnence.  Laminate flooring vs hardwood flooring is kind of like having high grade vinyl siding as opposed to cedar shingles.  Both have their different benefits but on both ends the wood is more valuable.  Urethanes today are so hard that they withstand tremendous abuse and last around 10 years before refinishing is needed.  Warping, bending and twisting is never a problem with a properly installed hardwood floor however these symptoms could indicate a moisture problem in the home. Those laminates number one benefit is its excellent suitability for finishing off basement slabs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > once again, i have to question the "much nicer."  i have many friends with > wood floors.  the wood floors look "nicer"….not by much….for only the > first 6 months after refinishing/installation. > wood floors take on wear and tear.  that’s ok, and for many, part of the > charm. > for me, i love the fact that years later, my wilsonart flooring looks like > a real maple floor that was installed yesterday. > no scratches, dings, warping, bending, twisting, gaps, marks, etc. > Yeh…Check this out….I installed the basement floor with the wilsonart > classic $3.79 square foot without install.  The stuff looked so good the home > owner is now having the study and great room and entry done with the stuff. > It looks killer.  Although natural wood is much nicer.  This fake stuff is > practical and looks sharp. >> last time i held a pergo plank in my hand, the back was made of >> paper/cardboard. >> wilsonart has a plastic backing. >> colors are WAY better on wilsonart.  people walk into my condo and always >> say "nice maple floor."  looks realistic. >> > Do you happen to remember offhand why Wilsonart is better?  And what the >> > downside is to Pergo? >> > Thanks so much for your information, I’ll check out ifloor.com >> > Teresa >> — > —

Response:

I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor (currently, concrete with vinyl tile squares over it).  The guy who’s finishing my basement says he’s never installed Pergo before.  It’s not the new "floating" Pergo, this is the original that takes glue.   How hard is it to install? And is Wilsonart flooring (the Pergo imitator)  a better buy?  Home Depot doesn’t carry it, I’m pretty sure Loew’s does. One more questions for those familiar with Pergo:  My sister had it installed in her basement last year and is very happy with it.  When she bought her floor, the guy helping her said she had picked a good style, and that some styles didn’t look so real.  I’ve picked Original Heart Pine, and I’m wondering if that’s one of the "good" choices, or if that’s one of the bad choices that looks fake.  The Home Depot person helping me wasn’t familiar with Pergo and didn’t know. Thanks! Teresa

Response:

>I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor

Purchased mine at Home Depot and installed it myself with no problem. The only glue involved is in joints and as far as I know, Pergo has no product that glues to the floor. I purchased "Original Pergo" with instructions followed to the "T". I also purchased the instruction video from HD and returned it for a refund when I returned the excess stuff I didn’t use. It’s truly great stuff and will give you no problem if installed properly (just follow directions). Regards,

Response:

I just did a wilsonart  floor  (Carolina Ash) it floats on special foam/ vapor barrier on concrete poured basement.  I am a professional carpenter but I had never used an artifical laminate although I have installed much real wood flooring.     The job looks great, but it was no means a piece of cake.  The pieces go toghther tonge and groove.  Glue is aplied to the groove but the actual floor floats. Be preparred to do a lot of blocking and shimming if you want perfect results.  careful not to buckle the floor by over shimming.  Some of the pieces are not "Perfect" out of the box but they can be worked into the job.   The key is shimming out a perfectly straight starting course.  The guys who delivered the product to our job, recomended an instalation strap.  My boss didn’t have one and didn’t see the need.  I do not believe a homeownetr can do a perfect install with out lots of trouble, mistakes and wasted time particularly if joining 2 rooms and a closet into a long hallway.  I think it can be done but it wont be perfect.  Also I used a mitersaw, table saw, jig saw a couple 2×4’s, misc blocks, lots of cedar shim shinlges, 6 foot level, 4 foot level, flooring jack etc……It cost them about $2.00 a square foot for me to install this stuff.  It looks great.  I wish I could afford the stuff in my basement.     I asked the homeowner about Pergo and he said that stuff was crap compared to the wilsonart photo laminate.  I dont know.  You wrote wilsonart is a pergo imitation.  I dont know.  I tried scratchin a scrap of tyhe stuff and it was virtually indestructable.  If i whacked it witht the claw end of my hammer it would chip but man, the stuff was wicked rugged. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor (currently, > concrete with vinyl tile squares over it).  The guy who’s finishing my basement > says he’s never installed Pergo before.  It’s not the new "floating" Pergo, > this is the original that takes glue. > How hard is it to install? > And is Wilsonart flooring (the Pergo imitator)  a better buy?  Home Depot > doesn’t carry it, I’m pretty sure Loew’s does. > One more questions for those familiar with Pergo:  My sister had it installed > in her basement last year and is very happy with it.  When she bought her > floor, the guy helping her said she had picked a good style, and that some > styles didn’t look so real.  I’ve picked Original Heart Pine, and I’m wondering > if that’s one of the "good" choices, or if that’s one of the bad choices that > looks fake.  The Home Depot person helping me wasn’t familiar with Pergo and > didn’t know. > Thanks! > Teresa

Response:

I also purchase mine from Home Depot and rented their installation kit which included the video. The most difficult task was cutting this stuff. Perhaps I did not have the right saw bit for my jigsaw, but I could not get a clean edge on the cut. It took the two of use one day to install it on a 21′X10′ room. We took a long time to decide which wall we were going start first. We finally decided to start from the wall with the entrance from the hallway and use a full length at that point. This was because there is usually more traffic from the hallway to the room at that point so I didn’t want to make a joint there.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor > Purchased mine at Home Depot and installed it myself with no problem. The only > glue involved is in joints and as far as I know, Pergo has no product that > glues to the floor. I purchased "Original Pergo" with instructions followed to > the "T". I also purchased the instruction video from HD and returned it for a > refund when I returned the excess stuff I didn’t use. It’s truly great stuff > and will give you no problem if installed properly (just follow directions). > Regards,

Response:

Laminate flooring is a pretty easy job, but there are specific techniques that must be followed.  I know of someone who had a "builder" install some and unlike the average homeowner the workers did not have to read or follow any instructions.  They did not leave a gap around the edges (you cover It with moulding) and when summer came around the floor expanded and buckled. Then actual flooring installation is very simple.  I didn’t have any trouble cutting the stuff.  The cuts don’t need to be very pretty as you shouldn’t ever have on exposed, however, it isn’t hard to make fairly clean cuts. They only place where you need some skills is in the trim work (moulding, doorframes etc) and even this part is fairly simple.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I also purchase mine from Home Depot and rented their installation kit which > included the video. The most difficult task was cutting this stuff. Perhaps > I did not have the right saw bit for my jigsaw, but I could not get a clean > edge on the cut. It took the two of use one day to install it on a 21′X10′ > room. We took a long time to decide which wall we were going start first. We > finally decided to start from the wall with the entrance from the hallway > and use a full length at that point. This was because there is usually more > traffic from the hallway to the room at that point so I didn’t want to make > a joint there. > >I’m thinking of getting Pergo flooring for my basement floor > Purchased mine at Home Depot and installed it myself with no problem. The > only > glue involved is in joints and as far as I know, Pergo has no product that > glues to the floor. I purchased "Original Pergo" with instructions > followed to > the "T". I also purchased the instruction video from HD and returned it > for a > refund when I returned the excess stuff I didn’t use. It’s truly great > stuff > and will give you no problem if installed properly (just follow > directions). > Regards,

Response:

I have the luxury of a table saw for cutting the material.  I used a fine tooth carbide saw with no problems.  For some odd cuts I did use a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade.   I layed the Pergo down in a 10′x 15′ room by myself in one long day.  Finished the trim on a second day.  It certainly would have made the job go faster if I had a second peson helping me (but they were working or in school).  One word of advice: Get the long adjustable strap clamps if you can. They suggest the clamps are only needed for the first three courses. However, it really tightened up the seams using them for the whole job. What I did was to glue three courses together, and use the strap clamps to tighten them up to the existing courses.  While those courses were setting up, I would lay out, and cut my next three courses. It takes a couple of courses to get the gluing technique right to reduce any mess.   Last recommedation:  If you decide to get the strap clamps, and you are renting them from Home Depot, you may want to get there as soon as they open.  Around by us the clamps disappear early.  A friend told me about this, and I followed his advice.  Glad I did.  Fifteen minutes after opening I got the last set.  Just as I picked them up and turned to go, another fellow was asking a worker where the strap clamps were. >I also purchase mine from Home Depot and rented their installation kit which >included the video. The most difficult task was cutting this stuff. Perhaps >I did not have the right saw bit for my jigsaw, but I could not get a clean >edge on the cut. It took the two of use one day to install it on a 21′X10′ >room. We took a long time to decide which wall we were going start first. We >finally decided to start from the wall with the entrance from the hallway >and use a full length at that point. This was because there is usually more >traffic from the hallway to the room at that point so I didn’t want to make >a joint there.

Gary Dyrkacz Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+ http://www.mcs.net/~dyrgcmn/

Response:

Question:

>you assume.  so where in the post does he ever ask for anything but how-to >cut the stuff to fit around the pipes etc?  

Since when in this or any other NG has a reply been limited to ONLY directly yes/no to what was asked?  The guy/gal YOU are criticizing didn’t ask YOU to give an opinion on whether his/her answer was on topic, but you opined (as do I now).  Both of you, stop it, go to your rooms without any supper. -v.

Response:

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, your usual strange self! — read and post daily, it works! rosie ON TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 7th,  I WILL VOTE FOR AL GORE ! http://www.algore2000.com/byoc/campaign/39ac3eb7b527b.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->ahhhhhhhh rich! >BLESSED BE THE PEACEMAKER! > Shit.  You’re here, too? > *plonk* > — > ALL programs are poems, it’s just that not all programmers are poets. >     — Jonathan Guthrie in the scary.devil.monastery

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graced us with the following quip: >you assume.  so where in the post does he ever ask for anything but how-to >cut the stuff to fit around the pipes etc?   >1.find a "chat group".   >2.dump the magna. >3.bite me.

*sigh*…so mommy left her computer on again eh? 1. your AOL experience is showing. 2. It’s my wifes Magna..YOU tell her to dump it. 3. Come on over little man and I’ll be happy to bite it. Oh and bring friends…LOT’S of em -aki 01 FXDWG (tinkle) 85 700 Magna AMA,DoD,HOG,yada,yada

Response:

Also schrieb Aki: >Oh and bring friends…LOT’S of em

Girls, girls… can we take this somewhere else?  Thankyouverymuch. — Catch the cluetrain.  http://www.cluetrain.com ALL programs are poems, it’s just that not all programmers are poets.     — Jonathan Guthrie in the scary.devil.monastery

Response:

graced us with the following quip: blah blah blah.. >list is growing.  like that water-logged sponge of a brain you have squeezed >into that mini skull of yours.

yawn… -aki 01 FXDWG (tinkle) 85 700 Magna AMA,DoD,HOG,yada,yada

Response:

ahhhhhhhh rich! BLESSED BE THE PEACEMAKER! — read and post daily, it works! rosie ON TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 7th,  I WILL VOTE FOR AL GORE ! http://www.algore2000.com/byoc/campaign/39ac3eb7b527b.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Also schrieb Aki: >Oh and bring friends…LOT’S of em > Girls, girls… can we take this somewhere else?  Thankyouverymuch. > — > Catch the cluetrain.  http://www.cluetrain.com > ALL programs are poems, it’s just that not all programmers are poets. >     — Jonathan Guthrie in the scary.devil.monastery

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>ahhhhhhhh rich! >BLESSED BE THE PEACEMAKER!

Shit.  You’re here, too? *plonk* — ALL programs are poems, it’s just that not all programmers are poets.     — Jonathan Guthrie in the scary.devil.monastery

Response:

One of my tiny bathrooms, 42 inches X 48 inches needs carpeting. Carpeting would be the easiest, since the floor started out with wood, then paint, then linoleum, then tiles, and at some point there was a cardboard backed something or other on it.  Remnants of each improvement remain, and short of dynamite, carpeting is easiest. Now in a space that small, I have pipes going to the sink, a toilet, a drain stack for the bathroom above it, and the water feed for the toilet. Working in that area is very difficult, and I’m not really interested in removing anything just to have to put it back. Question: What is the easiest way to lay in a carpet that fits around all these obstructions?  Cut it to 42 X 48, and trim with a sharp knife around the pipes, etc in the room?  Measure from the walls and cut it outside of the room? Or using pieces of brown paper and lot’s of tape, make a pattern, and then cut the carpet from the pattern, outside of the room. It’s a rubber backed carpet if that matters.  Very easy to cut. Not a tough question, just one from someone without experience in this type of work. Thanks.

Response:

i would absolutely NEVER put carpeting in a bathroom.  if you’re worried about installation headaches, install formica laminate flooring. not any harder to install than carpeting…..the *only* floor to warrant you against absolutely any type of water damage, and looks nice. it can be installed over almost anything, is cheap (for a room that size), and will take more abuse than any other type of floor except tile. (don’t do use pergo, tho.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > One of my tiny bathrooms, 42 inches X 48 inches needs carpeting. > Carpeting would be the easiest, since the floor started out with wood, > then paint, then linoleum, then tiles, and at some point there was a > cardboard backed something or other on it.  Remnants of each improvement > remain, and short of dynamite, carpeting is easiest. > Now in a space that small, I have pipes going to the sink, a toilet, a > drain stack for the bathroom above it, and the water feed for the toilet. > Working in that area is very difficult, and I’m not really interested in > removing anything just to have to put it back. > Question: What is the easiest way to lay in a carpet that fits around all > these obstructions?  Cut it to 42 X 48, and trim with a sharp knife around > the pipes, etc in the room?  Measure from the walls and cut it outside of > the room? Or using pieces of brown paper and lot’s of tape, make a > pattern, and then cut the carpet from the pattern, outside of the room. > It’s a rubber backed carpet if that matters.  Very easy to cut. > Not a tough question, just one from someone without experience in this > type of work. > Thanks.

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Response:

the following quip: >i would absolutely NEVER put carpeting in a bathroom.  if you’re worried >about installation headaches, install formica laminate flooring.

..I agree…if you get water under the carpeting the mold problem that could result could be nasty.  Also, IMHO, a carpeted bathroom looks tacky and dated.  Definitely go with laminate flooring or, even marble.  When we remodeled our masterbathroom, we removed the flooring and replaced with marble flooring.  Very nice, not too cold in the winter, cool in the summer and as long as you have a rug in front of the shower and sink, the floor stays dry and won’t get slippery.  I must admit though that it’s not the cheapest way to refloor the bathroom but the change is dramatic. -aki 01 FXDWG (tinkle) 85 700 Magna AMA,DoD,HOG,yada,yada

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graced us with the following quip: > the following quip: > >i would absolutely NEVER put carpeting in a bathroom.  if you’re worried > >about installation headaches, install formica laminate flooring. > ..I agree…if you get water under the carpeting the mold problem that >so?  where in this person’s post did they ask for either of your’s opinions? >do you honstly think this person has not considered the potential moisture >problems incurred with carpet in a wet area..geesh.

yes I do..since this person had no experience in doing this (by their own admission).  Next time read the post before you run out and make a complete and total ass of yourself on usenet. "geesh" -aki 01 FXDWG (tinkle) 85 700 Magna AMA,DoD,HOG,yada,yada

Response:

yes, to the following:         "Or using pieces of brown paper and lot’s of tape, make a > pattern, and then cut the carpet from the pattern, outside of the room"

I’ve done this, but you have to be very good at "spatial relations" to get it right!!!   —  pj

Newsgroups: misc.consumers.house Organization: EnterAct Corp. Lines: 43 NNTP-Posting-Host: shell-1.enteract.com  GMT) User-Agent: tin/1.4.2-20000205 ("Possession") (UNIX) (FreeBSD/3.5-STABLE (i386)) Path:  newsstand.cit.cornell.edu!news.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsswitch.lcs. mit. edu!newsfeed.enteract.com!news.enteract.com!not-for-mail Xref: newsstand.cit.cornell.edu misc.consumers.house:254931 Status: N i would absolutely NEVER put carpeting in a bathroom.  if you’re worried about installation headaches, install formica laminate flooring. not any harder to install than carpeting…..the *only* floor to warrant you against absolutely any type of water damage, and looks nice. it can be installed over almost anything, is cheap (for a room that size), and will take more abuse than any other type of floor except tile. (don’t do use pergo, tho.) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > One of my tiny bathrooms, 42 inches X 48 inches needs carpeting. > Carpeting would be the easiest, since the floor started out with wood, > then paint, then linoleum, then tiles, and at some point there was a > cardboard backed something or other on it.  Remnants of each improvement > remain, and short of dynamite, carpeting is easiest. > Now in a space that small, I have pipes going to the sink, a toilet, a > drain stack for the bathroom above it, and the water feed for the toilet. > Working in that area is very difficult, and I’m not really interested in > removing anything just to have to put it back. > Question: What is the easiest way to lay in a carpet that fits around all > these obstructions?  Cut it to 42 X 48, and trim with a sharp knife around > the pipes, etc in the room?  Measure from the walls and cut it outside of > the room? Or using pieces of brown paper and lot’s of tape, make a > pattern, and then cut the carpet from the pattern, outside of the room. > It’s a rubber backed carpet if that matters.  Very easy to cut. > Not a tough question, just one from someone without experience in this > type of work. > Thanks.

Response:

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > My husband and I are planning to invest in different flooring > for our house within the next few months.  Our carpet, which was > only a couple of years old when we moved in 1.5 years ago, is > already starting to show traffic patterns and spots from snowy > shoes, driveway blacktop, and a playful dog. > We’re both a big fan of wood, but not certain we want real wood > floors–truth is, I doubt I have the patience or discipline to > care for it.  So, we’re leaning towards Pergo.  I’m perfectly > willing to consider other brands of laminate flooring as well. > Unfortunately, we have no close friends/family who have any > experiences with laminate floors of any brand. > Right now, we have no kids, but are planning to start a family > within the next year or two.  Whatever we get, we’d like to be > kid-friendly, resistant to spills, wear, traffic, our dog’s > nails, etc…all with a minimum of upkeep (read:  no waxing!). > Does anybody have any experience to share on laminate vs. real > wood (cons as well as pros)?  Or, within laminate, any > brands/manufacturers to recommend or avoid?

Unless I’ve been told wrong, having Real wood floors nowadays takes no different care than a Pergo floor. You don’t wax them anymore. They have a sealer on them which protects. Were building and getting wood floors throughout the main floor and I have talked to the floor people and they said there isn’t any special were suppose to do (ie special cleaners, care, etc). Anyone have any different information? — Machelle Simon-Grech                    |The opinions above are mine | Ford Motor Company/Visteon              |and only mine. They have    | Milan Plastics – Incoming Quality       |nothing to do with that of  | The Quest for Stanley has begun anew! Go Wings!

Response:

> If you want the look of wood floors, buy wood flooring.  Laminate is > nothing more than a PICTURE of wood grain.  It’s fake and it looks fake. No > matter how durable it may be (and some brands are better than others), it’s > still as fake as a laminated countertop.

Remember that not all laminated flooring is fake wood. There are several brands that use real wood as the top layer. We used Kahrs Beech London in our kitchen/family room. London is their line of wide plank floors, with each plank 7.5" wide and 8′ long. They also make a 2 strip and 3 strip line in the same dimensions. Their cheaper brand in called Linnea. It is like most Pergo in that it is a 3 strip and only 4′ long. The 8 footers really take away the blocky look, especially in the 2 strip line. Naturally, the 1 strip looks like wide plank flooring. When I researched this, I found a few other companies that use real wood. Most of them were American-based, but for my situation, I got lots of recommedations to use Kahrs since they had been in this business for many more years. They were the only company that guaranteed the product on a slab with radiant heat. — Mark Nevar

Response:

Pergo’s great stuff. Way back in the early days of laminate floors, it was easier to scratch, and that reputation still carries forward to the present, where you hear people criticizing it. But the new lines are tough as hell. It MUST be installed properly, however. But it’s virtually impossible to stain it or scratch it. You can lay a cigarette on it and let it burn down to the filter, and then wipe up the burn mark completely. And of course it’s completly impervious to any kind of liquid.  Incidentally, there are 3 levels of Pergo. I can’t remember the exact names of them, it’s something like "Original, Family… " and something else. Get the middle grade – it’s thicker and has a 15 year warranty. Ron M.

Response:

While we’re on this topic, does anybody know a cheaper place to buy Pergo? Maybe a contractor source or something? The best prices we can find are $2.99 a square foot, and that’s at places like Home Depot. We’ll be doing a VERY large area, so anything that can cut costs would be welcome; maybe a mail order source or something….? Ron M.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > My husband and I are planning to invest in different flooring > for our house within the next few months.  Our carpet, which was > only a couple of years old when we moved in 1.5 years ago, is > already starting to show traffic patterns and spots from snowy > shoes, driveway blacktop, and a playful dog. > We’re both a big fan of wood, but not certain we want real wood > floors–truth is, I doubt I have the patience or discipline to > care for it.  So, we’re leaning towards Pergo.  I’m perfectly > willing to consider other brands of laminate flooring as well. > Unfortunately, we have no close friends/family who have any > experiences with laminate floors of any brand. > Right now, we have no kids, but are planning to start a family > within the next year or two.  Whatever we get, we’d like to be > kid-friendly, resistant to spills, wear, traffic, our dog’s > nails, etc…all with a minimum of upkeep (read:  no waxing!). > Does anybody have any experience to share on laminate vs. real > wood (cons as well as pros)?  Or, within laminate, any > brands/manufacturers to recommend or avoid? > Thanks for any and all help. > -Sophie > * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

We have two dogs, no kids.  Built the house three years ago and use Bruce Oak flooring on the entire first floor.  2 coats of  satin finish stain only.  NO WAX.  The wife bought this pad thingy about 8"x18" with a mop handle on it and a terry cloth cover.  Simply wet it lightly, and spray on some windex.  No problems.  High traffic spots have some pits, but I’d expect some wear.  The worst looking thing on the floor is our shoes, and the dog’s hair!

Response:

If you want the look of wood floors, buy wood flooring.  Laminate is nothing more than a PICTURE of wood grain.  It’s fake and it looks fake. No matter how durable it may be (and some brands are better than others), it’s still as fake as a laminated countertop.  If you really want fake, go with a vinyl — at least, it’s real vinyl and looks a lot better than pictures of wood grain. Keep in mind that real wood does scratch eventually.  That’s the beauty of wood floors.  Visit any old house with real wood floors and you will see that, even though they are probably dented and scratched, they are beautiful and get more beautiful with age.  They can always be restained and polished.  Scratched laminate, on the other hand (and it will happen eventually, no matter how much you spend for it) looks like a scratched photograph and cannot be repaired. Nothing cheapens a decent house more than a fake "wood" floor. — Kath – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > My husband and I are planning to invest in different flooring > for our house within the next few months.  Our carpet, which was > only a couple of years old when we moved in 1.5 years ago, is > already starting to show traffic patterns and spots from snowy > shoes, driveway blacktop, and a playful dog.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If you want the look of wood floors, buy wood flooring.  Laminate is >nothing more than a PICTURE of wood grain.  It’s fake and it looks fake. No >matter how durable it may be (and some brands are better than others), it’s >still as fake as a laminated countertop.  If you really want fake, go with >a vinyl — at least, it’s real vinyl and looks a lot better than pictures >of wood grain. >Keep in mind that real wood does scratch eventually.  That’s the beauty of >wood floors.  Visit any old house with real wood floors and you will see >that, even though they are probably dented and scratched, they are >beautiful and get more beautiful with age.  They can always be restained >and polished.  Scratched laminate, on the other hand (and it will happen >eventually, no matter how much you spend for it) looks like a scratched >photograph and cannot be repaired. >Nothing cheapens a decent house more than a fake "wood" floor. >– >Kath

Another thing I’ve seen happen to laminate is "peeling" of the laminate. This can happen if something gets under the edge of the laminate and pops the laminate up.  This looks terrible!

Response:

Hi, My husband and I are planning to invest in different flooring for our house within the next few months.  Our carpet, which was only a couple of years old when we moved in 1.5 years ago, is already starting to show traffic patterns and spots from snowy shoes, driveway blacktop, and a playful dog. We’re both a big fan of wood, but not certain we want real wood floors–truth is, I doubt I have the patience or discipline to care for it.  So, we’re leaning towards Pergo.  I’m perfectly willing to consider other brands of laminate flooring as well. Unfortunately, we have no close friends/family who have any experiences with laminate floors of any brand. Right now, we have no kids, but are planning to start a family within the next year or two.  Whatever we get, we’d like to be kid-friendly, resistant to spills, wear, traffic, our dog’s nails, etc…all with a minimum of upkeep (read:  no waxing!). Does anybody have any experience to share on laminate vs. real wood (cons as well as pros)?  Or, within laminate, any brands/manufacturers to recommend or avoid? Thanks for any and all help. -Sophie * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Question:

> Hi, > My puppy ate and destroyed the carpet in my dining room.  So we are now > trying to decide the best thing to replace the carpet with. I think that > we have decided that carpet is not the way to go in a dining area that > is used everyday just because of normal use(not just the dog eating it > ).   I was wondering if anyone had any comments/feedback on how the > following have stood up in their homes to a 66+ pound dog and normal > wear and tear: > linoleum

I had a Golden Retriever dig 2 12" diameter holes in a linoleum floor while I was out for an *hour*.  Never did it again and it would have been much easier since that flooring was replaced with vinyl tiles. > regular hardwood

I have a year-old Vizsla and he hasn’t damaged our hardwood floors in the year that we’ve had him.  We do try to keep his nails clipped regularly. That has probably helped. > pre-finished hardwood

My golden did no damage to pre-finished parquet flooring I installed.  The furniture was less forgiving, however… > wood laminate flooring(pergo, etc)

Good luck! Dave

Response:

We just put Wilson Art laminate on our kitchen floor.  Our flooring guy suggested we use it instead of hardwood because we live in a slab house.  Since, in our case, it would have been much more expensive to go with real hardwood floors (from the same guy) I figured he had no axe to grind and chose the Wilson Art. regards jerry gitomer

| | |We are looking zat replacing 15+ Yr old carpet |with a wood/laminate. We have a concrete slab |subfloor. How would your solution work there? | | | |> I replaced my 10 y/o grungy carpet in living |room, dining room hall way with |> red oak #1 common hardwards that was 3/4" thick. |> cost came out ot $2.36 (including tax) per |square foot.  Had it installed, |> sanded, 3 coats of poly for $2.50 sq/ft, for |less than |> $5 sq/ft. |> |> Pergo is the same price as this, maybe a little |more, prefinished floors are |> above this amount too.  Linoleum is more water |and |> spilled food proof, but it can be cut by |dropping a knife or fork or |> something. |> |> Anyfloor can be damaged.  Carpet gets matted and |grungy, but is the cheapest |> way to go.  hardwoods can be sanded/recoated |> up to 10time or so.  I forgo’d Pergo when I |found I could get real hw’s for |> less.  You’ll have to spring extra for shoe |molding, |> maybe some thresholding, and the like. |> |> |> > Hi, |> > |> > My puppy ate and destroyed the carpet in my |dining room.  So we are now |> > trying to decide the best thing to replace the |carpet with. I think that |> > |> > we have decided that carpet is not the way to |go in a dining area that |> > is used everyday just because of normal |use(not just the dog eating it |> > ).   I was wondering if anyone had any |comments/feedback on how the |> > following have stood up in their homes to a |66+ pound dog and normal |> > wear and tear: |> > |> > linoleum |> > regular hardwood |> > pre-finished hardwood |> > wood laminate flooring(pergo, etc) |> > |> > We have talked to several "professionals" and |have gotten conflicting |> > info as to which would hold up better. |> > |> > Thanks, |> > sharon |> > |> > — |> > |> > Sharon Reposa Quaranta |> > The MathWorks, Inc.            WWW  : |http://www.mathworks.com |> > 3 Apple Hill Drive                  Phone: |(508) 647-7000 |> > Natick, MA 01760-1500            FAX : (508) |647-7202 |> > |> |> — |> |> ###> reply to: b-l-u-e-b-l-u-r-8-9 a t y-a-h-o-o |dot c-o-m    <### |> |> | | | |Before you buy.

Response:

Hi, My puppy ate and destroyed the carpet in my dining room.  So we are now trying to decide the best thing to replace the carpet with. I think that we have decided that carpet is not the way to go in a dining area that is used everyday just because of normal use(not just the dog eating it ).   I was wondering if anyone had any comments/feedback on how the following have stood up in their homes to a 66+ pound dog and normal wear and tear: linoleum regular hardwood pre-finished hardwood wood laminate flooring(pergo, etc) We have talked to several "professionals" and have gotten conflicting info as to which would hold up better. Thanks, sharon — The MathWorks, Inc.            WWW  : http://www.mathworks.com 3 Apple Hill Drive                  Phone: (508) 647-7000 Natick, MA 01760-1500            FAX : (508) 647-7202

Response:

We are looking zat replacing 15+ Yr old carpet with a wood/laminate. We have a concrete slab subfloor. How would your solution work there? > I replaced my 10 y/o grungy carpet in living

room, dining room hall way with > red oak #1 common hardwards that was 3/4" thick. > cost came out ot $2.36 (including tax) per

square foot.  Had it installed, > sanded, 3 coats of poly for $2.50 sq/ft, for less than > $5 sq/ft. > Pergo is the same price as this, maybe a little

more, prefinished floors are > above this amount too.  Linoleum is more water and > spilled food proof, but it can be cut by

dropping a knife or fork or > something. > Anyfloor can be damaged.  Carpet gets matted and

grungy, but is the cheapest > way to go.  hardwoods can be sanded/recoated > up to 10time or so.  I forgo’d Pergo when I

found I could get real hw’s for > less.  You’ll have to spring extra for shoe molding, > maybe some thresholding, and the like. > Hi, > My puppy ate and destroyed the carpet in my

dining room.  So we are now > trying to decide the best thing to replace the

carpet with. I think that > we have decided that carpet is not the way to

go in a dining area that > is used everyday just because of normal

use(not just the dog eating it > ).   I was wondering if anyone had any

comments/feedback on how the > following have stood up in their homes to a

66+ pound dog and normal > wear and tear: > linoleum > regular hardwood > pre-finished hardwood > wood laminate flooring(pergo, etc) > We have talked to several "professionals" and

have gotten conflicting > info as to which would hold up better. > Thanks, > sharon > —

> Sharon Reposa Quaranta

> The MathWorks, Inc.            WWW  :

http://www.mathworks.com > 3 Apple Hill Drive                  Phone: (508) 647-7000 > Natick, MA 01760-1500            FAX : (508) 647-7202

> — > ###> reply to: b-l-u-e-b-l-u-r-8-9 a t y-a-h-o-o dot c-o-m    <###

Before you buy.

Response:

Question:

Can someone please tell me the advantages of putting in pre-finished engineered hardwood floors vs unfinished-sanded-finished?? Obviously, the convenience of installation of the pre-finished is a big plus. And I know that the unfinished can be sanded and re-finished more often, but that’s not an issue for me. Does either look or wear noticeably better or worse? Thanks, Bonnie

Response:

Bonnie, I am confused. ‘Engineered flooring’ is like Pergo, which is not hardwood at all, and has a finished look to it. You cannot sand-refinish Pergo-like floors. Parquet flooring comes finished and is constructed like plywood. You can sand-refinish once, maybe twice if you’re lucky. Solid flooring, like strip or planking can be purchased finished or unfinished. Personally I like my 2-1/4" x 1/4" prefinished tongue & groove oak strip. Can you rephrase the question? Lance – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Can someone please tell me the advantages of putting in pre-finished > engineered hardwood floors vs unfinished-sanded-finished?? > Obviously, the convenience of installation of the pre-finished is a big plus. > And I know that the unfinished can be sanded and re-finished more often, but > that’s not an issue for me. > Does either look or wear noticeably better or worse? > Thanks, > Bonnie

Response:

> Solid flooring, like strip or planking can be purchased finished or > unfinished. Personally I like my 2-1/4" x 1/4" prefinished tongue & > groove oak strip.

Here I go again, 2-1/4" x 1/2", one half inch!

Response:

>Solid flooring, like strip or planking can be purchased finished or >unfinished. Personally I like my 2-1/4" x 1/4" prefinished tongue & >groove oak strip. >Can you rephrase the question? >Lance

   Sorry for the confusion.  I call Pergo/WilsonArt Laminate flooring    that looks wood-like.    Someone had given me the impression that prefinished wood plank    (e.g. Bruce Hardwood) was "engineered" somehow, and perhaps not    as good (in terms of looks and wear/tear) as unfinished planks    that you install and then sand & finish.    Feel free to correct any of this.      My original question, rephrased, Is there some advantage to    installing unfinished wood and then finishing it, as opposed to    installing pre-finished wood?  Also, is one usually more expensive    to have installed than the other?    Hope that is more clear.    Bonnie

Response:

>   My original question, rephrased, Is there some advantage to >   installing unfinished wood and then finishing it, as opposed to >   installing pre-finished wood?  Also, is one usually more expensive >   to have installed than the other?

Usually very similar in price.  Often with careful shopping or flexibility in scheduling you can get a finished-in-place floor even cheaper than pre-finished. pre-finished usually has gaps/grooves between the boards.  This is to compensate for the slight differences in height between adjacent boards.  Finished-in-place is sanded so the joints are smooth. Finished in place is, in my opinion, sealed better. finished in place is (always?) good thick (3/4") boards.  pre-finished is often thinner.  Thinner means less opportunities to sand and refinish in the future.  (You can sand only until the tounge/groove milling becomes too thin.) And my final opinion…  No wood floor looks as nice as a freshly done finished-in-place wood floor.  The pre-finished can look great, but not comparable to finished-in-place. sdb — Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)! Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be sylvan and host is cyberhighway.net.

Response:

I think the real advantage for pre-finished is for us do-it-yourselfers and certain job site conditions. Just install and return to normal life and you save about 50% if you do the install. I’ve done a bit of research and am fairly certain I’ll be using a Bruce pre-finished product, just because of availability at my local Home Depot and site conditions. I need to install over concrete in an old house (no room to add plywood sub-floor) Wondering if anyone has installed the new Bruce Simply Natural (stick- on) product or the Bruce Engineered. If the engineered, opinions on if it’s better to float or glue down. Thanks. > Usually very similar in price.  Often with careful shopping or > flexibility in scheduling you can get a finished-in-place floor even > cheaper than pre-finished.

Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Question:

We have Wilsonart laminate flooring in our kitchen.  What experiences do folks have with locating cleaning products for this type of flooring.  Does anyone have a home recipe? Regards from sunny San Leandro Rebecca Vesterfelt/Louis Cohen 37

Question:

: We’re in the early stages of shopping for flooring for a remodel and : are attracted to laminate flooring. : : What are the pros and cons of the different brands? … Now I’m even more confused: I’ve picked up brochures for a number of laminate flooring brands, and, remarkably, it’s not always possible to tell from their literature which of them use wood veneer for the decorative layer and which just use a picture of wood grain (or stone or tile or abstract patterns).  Very odd! Again, does anyone have a road map to the competing laminate brands? Thanks.

Response:

I am a home builder and recommend to my customers that they avoid all wood and laminate engineered flooring. If you consult with professional installers and poll consumers who have used these products you will find there is only about a 50% satisfaction rating. Contrary to what the sales people tell you, these floors will dent, chip, scratch, and warp from moisture and there are so many warranty claims against all manufacturers that few honor existing warranties. There are no real ‘repair’ solutions to these floors apart from replacement. If you can afford it, consider the tried and true flooring solutions that have been tested thru the centuries: hardwood or ceramic tile.

New Webpage

Response:

We’re in the early stages of shopping for flooring for a remodel and are attracted to laminate flooring. What are the pros and cons of the different brands?  Some people say Pergo has been overtaken in quality by more recent entrants to the field; correct?  Formica has a 15-year guarantee against water damage and Wilsonart also claims to be appropriate for use in kitchens and even bathrooms.  Would you trust either of them in a kitchen, and what about other brands?  A comparison chart at carpeteria.com calls Pickering its "best buy"; anything to that?  We’re not planning on installing the floor ourselves, so ease of installation isn’t of primary concern — or should we be worried about installation pitfalls even if we have it professionally done? Thanks for any tips you can share.  And for a recent useful post related to this topic, see:

Response:

Question:

>I don’t know if it’s totally glued. It has a raised pattern or I would >lay over it.

If the pattern is not aised too high, ther is a leveling compound available that will smooth over the vinyl.  I used it with great success. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The previous owners used some self stick tile in a hallway >leading to the kitchen and in the second master (handicapped parent), so >I would really like to just continue with that rather than replacing all >of it. It’s rather attractive and doesn’t seem to be peeling up even >after I had a flood. I think I’ll try removing it in the bathroom first >before I try the kitchen. If I’m going to go to the expense of hiring a >pro, I might as well do ceramic tile. >Pat

Response:

I have had the peel and stick in our kitchen now for 5 yrs. The beauty of it is that if you get a ding in one, just heat it up with the hairdryer and replace it with another. They make some very nice ones today in comparison to 10 yrs ago or more. The beauty is that they are easy to replace and cheaper to do. Take your time laying them and the job will come out fine. In your case though, if your existing floor is totally glued, it might be easier to lay a new subfloor or do the laminate hardwood deal.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I really recommend against self-stick for a kitchen.  When we bought our > house last year, we laid down self-stick vinyl in a bathroom.  I knew it was > short term, and whatever I did was going to be magnitudes better than the > 20-year-old *carpet* that was there when we bought it. > However, the self-stick was hard to place (no chance to reasily adjust its > position) and it just doesn’t stay stuck to the floor.  Gaps are prevalent. > It still looks pretty good a year later, but this is our least-used > bathroom, and it is very small.  It wouldn’t have survived two months in our > kitchen. > good luck, > ben > flooring in my kitchen has seen better days. I’m probably going to put > down vinyl self stick tile. The question is what is the easiest way to

Response:

I don’t know if it’s totally glued. It has a raised pattern or I would lay over it. The previous owners used some self stick tile in a hallway leading to the kitchen and in the second master (handicapped parent), so I would really like to just continue with that rather than replacing all of it. It’s rather attractive and doesn’t seem to be peeling up even after I had a flood. I think I’ll try removing it in the bathroom first before I try the kitchen. If I’m going to go to the expense of hiring a pro, I might as well do ceramic tile. Pat – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have had the peel and stick in our kitchen now for 5 yrs. The beauty of it > is that if you get a ding in one, just heat it up with the hairdryer and > replace it with another. They make some very nice ones today in comparison > to 10 yrs ago or more. The beauty is that they are easy to replace and > cheaper to do. Take your time laying them and the job will come out fine. > In your case though, if your existing floor is totally glued, it might be > easier to lay a new subfloor or do the laminate hardwood deal. > I really recommend against self-stick for a kitchen.  When we bought our > house last year, we laid down self-stick vinyl in a bathroom.  I knew it > was > short term, and whatever I did was going to be magnitudes better than the > 20-year-old *carpet* that was there when we bought it. > However, the self-stick was hard to place (no chance to reasily adjust its > position) and it just doesn’t stay stuck to the floor.  Gaps are > prevalent. > It still looks pretty good a year later, but this is our least-used > bathroom, and it is very small.  It wouldn’t have survived two months in > our > kitchen. > good luck, > ben > > flooring in my kitchen has seen better days. I’m probably going to put > > down vinyl self stick tile. The question is what is the easiest way to

Response:

I decided on laminate flooring to go over my vinyl.  One of the biggest deciding factors for me, was that there was no "tear-up" involved.  Just goes right over the existing surface.  Its a bionic surface and I’ve never regretted it! Todd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >This is my first house and I want to do some remodeling myself. The >flooring in my kitchen has seen better days. I’m probably going to put >down vinyl self stick tile. The question is what is the easiest way to >remove the old flooring and prepare the floor? There is a part where >there is a slight indent in the floor that shows through and I’d like to >level it. >I’m a newbie at this, so any ideas, advice would be appreciated. >Pat

Response:

I really recommend against self-stick for a kitchen.  When we bought our house last year, we laid down self-stick vinyl in a bathroom.  I knew it was short term, and whatever I did was going to be magnitudes better than the 20-year-old *carpet* that was there when we bought it. However, the self-stick was hard to place (no chance to reasily adjust its position) and it just doesn’t stay stuck to the floor.  Gaps are prevalent. It still looks pretty good a year later, but this is our least-used bathroom, and it is very small.  It wouldn’t have survived two months in our kitchen. good luck, ben – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > flooring in my kitchen has seen better days. I’m probably going to put > down vinyl self stick tile. The question is what is the easiest way to

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If it is full-glued, it is easer to just rip up the top layer of subfloor, and start fresh. Unfortunately, to do that right, you have to pull out the base cabinets. I’d get an estimate from a pro- if existing floor is sound, they can just do some careful trimming at seams and edges to get rid of high spots, through-nail any bouncy spots, and skim-coat old floor with leveling compound made for this purpose. After it is all level, they can lay down a new floor on top. Any work you can do, like removing appliances, baseboard, etc, will cut their estimate substantially. That is what we did in a old family rental we sold last year, and it came out looking well. Abandoning old floor in place also avoids any possible questions of asbestos abatement, if house is that old. IMHO, forget about the self-stick squares. Even slight errors in layout will produce glaring effects to the eye, and the joints are a magnet for stains and spills. Not to metion, the self-adhesive isn’t nearly as stong as mastic, and they tend to peel and curl if wet or damaged.  People went to roll flooring, and finally to wall-to-wall seamless (actually usually has some well-hidden sealed seams) for a very good reason- it works a Lot Better in a kitchen environment. aem sends…

> Pat, this can be a big job depending on how the vinyl flooring is put down.  If > it’s glued down just around the edges it might not be so bad.  However, If it > is glued down all over then it can be real difficult to get up.  I had to rent > a machine that had a vibrating blade on the front that peeled the old floor up. >  It was a big machine.  Also, if you have cushend (sp?) vinyl the top part will > come up but the padding underneath will be difficult to remove.  This might be > a job for a Pro.  Someone once told me they used some kind of a solvent in the > process.  Don’t know about that, maybe someone else can help there.  Good

Luck

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This is my first house and I want to do some remodeling myself. The flooring in my kitchen has seen better days. I’m probably going to put down vinyl self stick tile. The question is what is the easiest way to remove the old flooring and prepare the floor? There is a part where there is a slight indent in the floor that shows through and I’d like to level it. I’m a newbie at this, so any ideas, advice would be appreciated. Pat

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Pat, this can be a big job depending on how the vinyl flooring is put down.  If it’s glued down just around the edges it might not be so bad.  However, If it is glued down all over then it can be real difficult to get up.  I had to rent a machine that had a vibrating blade on the front that peeled the old floor up.  It was a big machine.  Also, if you have cushend (sp?) vinyl the top part will come up but the padding underneath will be difficult to remove.  This might be a job for a Pro.  Someone once told me they used some kind of a solvent in the process.  Don’t know about that, maybe someone else can help there.  Good Luck

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Question:

We’re looking at replacing the vinyl floor in our eat-in kitchen, laundry room, entry and bathroom.  Everyone at the stores is pushing laminate, in particular the Formica brand.  If anyone has any opinions or experience with this type of flooring, please pass along your advice! We have several concerns that we still haven’t had adequate answers to. How does it hold up to wear, since our main dining table will be in the kitchen?  They tell us that if a section needs replacing, it can be done without replacing the whole floor.  Is this really true?  Is cleanup as simple as the brochures suggest? Thanks! Diana Holmes

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. We’re looking at replacing the vinyl floor in our eat-in kitchen, . laundry room, entry and bathroom.  Everyone at the stores is pushing . laminate, in particular the Formica brand.  If anyone has any opinions . or experience with this type of flooring, please pass along your advice! . . We have several concerns that we still haven’t had adequate answers to. . How does it hold up to wear, since our main dining table will be in the . kitchen?  They tell us that if a section needs replacing, it can be done . without replacing the whole floor.  Is this really true?  Is cleanup as . simple as the brochures suggest? . If you have, or are plannning to have, children, I would put inexpensive vinyl into your kitchen. The children will always find some way to destroy a kitchen floor when your attention is momentarily distracted. Once the kids are grown you can go back and put whatever you want in. If you go into it considering the floor to be a disposable purchase, it will do wonders for your state of mind when your first-born gets artistic with a fork. — Kirk and Diane Kerekes Red Gate Ranch

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