Consumer Homes. » Microwave Kitchen » Kitchen Cabinets on masonry walls…

Kitchen Cabinets on masonry walls…

Question:

>Hello All, >    I have a quandary. My CrackHouse is brick and block from the >foundation up to the eves and I’m not sure how to securely fasten the >new kitchen cabinets. I haven’t installed sheetrock yet in the kitchen >so the block and brick courses are still exposed. The 1×2 furring strips >are on ~16" centers and I’ve cut 3/4" ridgid foam to fit in between >(damn masonry houses are cold in the winter!). So how do I securely >fasten the wall cabinets so that I have confidence that they won’t pull >out?

I installed cabinets into a plaster-over-solid-brick wall with Tapcon screws.  These are made especially for this purpose.  You will need to predrill the holes in the masonry first.   Dee

Response:

It was a VA foreclosure, broken-into, boarded-up, grafitti-sprayed but in a decent neighborhood…I got it  even though I paid a little more than I had wanted but the market has turned this into a good speculation (assuming values hold) over the past year and a half. I’ve just appealed my recent tax-assessment to try and bring down the property taxes while I fix it up. My plan is to get it reappraised so that I can refinance from an ARM to a fixed rate (lower) without PMI. Anyway, the sleepers on the masonry walls are original, 1959 vintage. They’re held on with masonry nails (cut nails) which seem to do a pretty decent job but I’m not confident they’ll have the holding power to support wall cabinets. Any ideas? JR – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Your "Crackhouse"???   :) > I would still use furring strips.  Just use some good and > strong fasteners to hold them to the concrete walls. > Personally, I have used lead anchors.  I drilled holes into > the concrete walls and inserted the lead anchors.  I put a bit > of epoxy on them too for a little extra holding power.  I then > used lag bolts to hold the furring strips up.  The lag bolts > also cause the lead anchors to expand which increases greatly > the friction holding them into the holes. > It held up my over-the-range microwave without a problem. > Hello All, >     I have a quandary. My CrackHouse is brick and block from the > foundation up to the eves and I’m not sure how to securely fasten the > new kitchen cabinets. I haven’t installed sheetrock yet in the kitchen > so the block and brick courses are still exposed. The 1×2 furring strips > are on ~16" centers and I’ve cut 3/4" ridgid foam to fit in between > (damn masonry houses are cold in the winter!). So how do I securely > fasten the wall cabinets so that I have confidence that they won’t pull > out? > Thanks, > Jonathan

  jrall.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

Hello All,     I have a quandary. My CrackHouse is brick and block from the foundation up to the eves and I’m not sure how to securely fasten the new kitchen cabinets. I haven’t installed sheetrock yet in the kitchen so the block and brick courses are still exposed. The 1×2 furring strips are on ~16" centers and I’ve cut 3/4" ridgid foam to fit in between (damn masonry houses are cold in the winter!). So how do I securely fasten the wall cabinets so that I have confidence that they won’t pull out? Thanks, Jonathan

  jrall.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

Your "Crackhouse"???   :) I would still use furring strips.  Just use some good and strong fasteners to hold them to the concrete walls.   Personally, I have used lead anchors.  I drilled holes into the concrete walls and inserted the lead anchors.  I put a bit of epoxy on them too for a little extra holding power.  I then used lag bolts to hold the furring strips up.  The lag bolts also cause the lead anchors to expand which increases greatly the friction holding them into the holes. It held up my over-the-range microwave without a problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello All, >     I have a quandary. My CrackHouse is brick and block from the > foundation up to the eves and I’m not sure how to securely fasten the > new kitchen cabinets. I haven’t installed sheetrock yet in the kitchen > so the block and brick courses are still exposed. The 1×2 furring strips > are on ~16" centers and I’ve cut 3/4" ridgid foam to fit in between > (damn masonry houses are cold in the winter!). So how do I securely > fasten the wall cabinets so that I have confidence that they won’t pull > out? > Thanks, > Jonathan

Response:

If you like this post and would like to receive updates from this blog, please subscribe our feed. Subscribe via RSS

Leave a Reply