Question:

I saw one in a store and it had the wrong time. So they don’t work everywhere. A GPS clock would work better. Following are some GPS clock links… http://www.torpeytime.com/Clocks/GPS-1.htm http://www.absolutetime.com/products/100mod.htm http://www.allclocks.com/gps.htm

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> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

I guess you’re talking about WWVB clocks, which receive the NIST’s time codes on 60-KHz WWVB. Cool clocks, if fraction-of-a-second accuracy isn’t what you need. They work pretty much throughout North America unless you are in a place that has lots of electromagnetic interference (e.g. near a poorly shielded computer monitor) or really abysmal radio reception (e.g. in a metal-skin building). Battery life should be about a year or so in a decently made unit — they use very simple low-power circuits, and they wake up only a few times a week. NIST has a good page on these, with lots of troubleshooting tips and links to manufacturers, at http://www.boulder.nist.gov/timefreq/stations/radioclocks.htm — Chris Green

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>-:Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? >-:Do they work well? >-:I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have >-:built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. >-:I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

Actually, they only sync to the atomic clock once a day, in the early eveining, according to the instruction sheet. — This space left intentionally blank

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>-:I saw one in a store and it had the wrong time. So they don’t work >-:everywhere. A GPS clock would work better. Following are some GPS clock >-:links… >-:

Were the minutes correct, or was it totally incorrect?  I was having a problem with mine until I reset it to the correct time zone. >-:http://www.torpeytime.com/Clocks/GPS-1.htm >-: >-:http://www.absolutetime.com/products/100mod.htm >-: >-:http://www.allclocks.com/gps.htm >-:

– This space left intentionally blank

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> > Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks > I guess you’re talking about WWVB clocks, which receive the NIST’s > time codes on 60-KHz WWVB. Cool clocks, if fraction-of-a-second > accuracy isn’t what you need.

What good would 10-place accuracy be in a wall clock?  BTW, with the proper software you can sync your computer’s clock with the NIST time code. — Cheers, Bev "The object in life is not to be on the side of the  majority, but to be insane in such a useful way that  they can’t commit you."              – Mark Edwards

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do these things use the same radio signal as the old radio shack time cubes? (tune in and listen for the tone..).  Those things were often a pain to find a good lcation / orientation to pick up a clear signal. I wonder how they do it now so much more reliably and without the big antenna.

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >-:> >-:> > Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? >-:> > Do they work well? >-:> > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have >-:> > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. >-:> > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks >-:> >-:> I guess you’re talking about WWVB clocks, which receive the NIST’s >-:> time codes on 60-KHz WWVB. Cool clocks, if fraction-of-a-second >-:> accuracy isn’t what you need. >-: >-:What good would 10-place accuracy be in a wall clock?  BTW, with the proper >-:software you can sync your computer’s clock with the NIST time code.

If your computer runs Windows, there are several such free utilities at http://www.thefreesite.com/Free_Software/Free_time_utilities/. Dunno what you have to do to get it to happen in that other OS. — This space left intentionally blank

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> Dunno what you have to do to get it to happen in that other OS.

Linux:  ntpdate -SC — Stanley Cline — sc1 at roamer1 dot org — http://www.roamer1.org/ … "Never put off until tomorrow what you can do today.  There might be a law against it by that time."  -/usr/games/fortune

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> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since > they have built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

I have a Sony clock radio. It plugs in so I don’t know about battery issues. I love it, I never have to correct it or reset it when daylight saving begins/ends, but it isn’t perfect. Reception inside buildings is weak, it can pick up a signal only at night, and tweaking the antenna may be needed. (If you have aluminum studs, copper roof, etc., reception may be impossible.) As others have said, it doesn’t correct itself continuously but only once a day in the evening. One minor problem resulting from this is that when daylight savings begins/ends, the new time is shown starting about 10pm the previous night rather than exactly at 1am or whatever. One time it got confused and was off by two hours for a whole day, so my alarm went off two hours early that morning. (This never happened again.) A specific problem with the Sony is that it doesn’t have battery backup. Better clock radios usually do. Sony felt they didn’t need it because the radio would pick up the time signal as soon as the power comes back on, and indeed it tries to, but during the day the recpetion is poor and it does not succeed. (It keeps trying until it is late evening and then it succeeds, but this is a pain.).

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->-:> >-:> > Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? >-:> > Do they work well? >-:> > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have >-:> > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. >-:> > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks >-:> >-:> I guess you’re talking about WWVB clocks, which receive the NIST’s >-:> time codes on 60-KHz WWVB. Cool clocks, if fraction-of-a-second >-:> accuracy isn’t what you need. >-: >-:What good would 10-place accuracy be in a wall clock?  BTW, with the proper >-:software you can sync your computer’s clock with the NIST time code. > If your computer runs Windows, there are several such free utilities > at http://www.thefreesite.com/Free_Software/Free_time_utilities/. > Dunno what you have to do to get it to happen in that other OS.

ntpdate tock.usnogps.navy.mil;hwclock –systohc HTH.  HAND. — Cheers, Bev   0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0o0 Judges are our only protection against a legal system that can    afford lots more prosecution than we can afford defense.

Response:

>Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? >Do they work well? >I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have >built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. >I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

I own three — a wall clock, a travel clock, and a wristwatch.  I’m happy with all of them :-)  Batteries last for years. —

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> > Dunno what you have to do to get it to happen in that other OS. > Linux:  ntpdate > -SC

Still better, NTP (ntpd or xntpd). This can even be had for Window$. Micro$oft uses SNTP, which is OK on networks with short and predictable delay. PC clocks are lousy, though, and have to be slewed frequently to keep them accurate when running NTP, or they drift out by sometimes minutes a day when they’re just running ntpdate or the like. Old SPARC boxes running ntpd and synced to a Stratum 2 or 3 NTP server make rock-solid local time servers; they can sit in a corner and mark time to the hundredth of a second for as long as the power stays on. — Chris Green

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> do these things use the same radio signal as the old radio > shack time cubes? (tune in and listen for the tone..).  Those > things were often a pain to find a good lcation / orientation to pick > up a clear signal. I wonder how they do it now so much more reliably and > without the big antenna.

No, those Timecubes received WWV and WWVH on their various frequencies in the shortwave band.  Those signals were meant primarily for listening to; you’d get the time by listening for the update (I have a memory of reading that the time was sent by Morse Code rather than voice, up until the mid-sixties or so).  You could also use it as a frequency standard using various means, including the audio tones that were sent out.  As you say, reception was sporadic, which was due to the propogation effects of the shortwave band.  That’s why the stations broadcast on multiple frequencies, and the TimeCube allowed for switching between those frequencies, in the hope that at least one of them would be receivable in your location at any given time.  At some point they added some method of sending the time digitally, but I wasn’t paying attention by that point.  Heathkit sold a clock that used this information to the clock on an almost minute by minute basis, years ago, and called it "The World’s Most Accurate Clock". This new wave of clocks use WWVB, which is down at 60KHz, a very low frequency.  Like WWV and WWVH, WWVB is operated by the US National Bureau of Standards (or has the pertinent government branch changed it’s name?), and the time and frequency is derived from a very accurate standard, I think based on cesium.  But WWVB, being so low in frequency, has much better penetration than shortwave frequencies, and doesn’t suffer the propogation problems of the higher frequencies.  WWVB was always much more a laboratory standard; a lot more people have a shortwave receiver than something that tunes 60KHz, and it never had the "friendliness" of a voice telling you the time.    Michael

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> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time.

The clock I have from oregon scientific ran for 2 1/2 years on two AA batts.  This particular unit also received wireless from a temp sensor in the backyard.  Those are neat products and I highly recommend them, especially as gifts for "weather geeks". http:://www.oregonscientific.com

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >-:148028.news.dfncis.de: >-: >-:> I saw one in a store and it had the wrong time. So they don’t work >-:> everywhere. A GPS clock would work better. Following are some GPS clock >-:> links… >-:> >-:> http://www.torpeytime.com/Clocks/GPS-1.htm >-:> >-:> http://www.absolutetime.com/products/100mod.htm >-:> >-:> http://www.allclocks.com/gps.htm >-: >-:My GPS doesn’t work indoors, or when too much of the sky is obstructed by >-:buildings or leaf cover, so I assume a GPS clock would not either. The >-:devices mentioned by the OP WILL work indoors (in most cases) and do not >-:care about an unobstructed view of the sky.

My GPS works perfectly well indoors, so long as I place the remote antenna in the window – but it’s not particularly useful when I do so, since it’s not hard to track a stationary location.  I’d bet that the GPS clocks listed include an external antenna, since it is handy for radio stations and such to know the precise time. — This space left intentionally blank

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >-:Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > >-:Do they work well? > >-:I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since > they have > >-:built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. > >-:I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks > Actually, they only sync to the atomic clock once a day, in the early > eveining, according to the instruction sheet. > — > If that’s the case, then it’s meaningless over-hype them as > "atomic clocks".  A more accurate description would be > to refer to these things as self-correcting clocks. > One would have no idea of how much this "atomic" standard > has drifted since it was last updated or whether it even received > an update. Even it’s constantly phase-locked to the NBS, you > would have to account for the varying delay of the signal path to > your receiver to get the true absolute time. > Oh, for the simpler days when every kitchen had an electric > clock with a 60 cycle per second synchronous motor. If the > power line frequency ever varied, the electric company would > compensate the frequency later so that the clocks kept > "perfect" time.

Digital clocks could do the same.  Sample the line frequency and adjust the rate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Don

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148028.news.dfncis.de: > I saw one in a store and it had the wrong time. So they don’t work > everywhere. A GPS clock would work better. Following are some GPS clock > links… > http://www.torpeytime.com/Clocks/GPS-1.htm > http://www.absolutetime.com/products/100mod.htm > http://www.allclocks.com/gps.htm

My GPS doesn’t work indoors, or when too much of the sky is obstructed by buildings or leaf cover, so I assume a GPS clock would not either. The devices mentioned by the OP WILL work indoors (in most cases) and do not care about an unobstructed view of the sky.

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>-:Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? >-:Do they work well? >-:I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have >-:built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. >-:I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks > Actually, they only sync to the atomic clock once a day, in the early > eveining, according to the instruction sheet. > —

If that’s the case, then it’s meaningless over-hype them as "atomic clocks".  A more accurate description would be to refer to these things as self-correcting clocks. One would have no idea of how much this "atomic" standard has drifted since it was last updated or whether it even received an update. Even it’s constantly phase-locked to the NBS, you would have to account for the varying delay of the signal path to your receiver to get the true absolute time. Oh, for the simpler days when every kitchen had an electric clock with a 60 cycle per second synchronous motor. If the power line frequency ever varied, the electric company would compensate the frequency later so that the clocks kept "perfect" time. Don

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> I run ntpdate whenever I think of it, sometimes days and sometimes weeks > apart, and am never off by more than a few seconds.  

Depends on your PC. I run a whole lab of them, and clock bias and jitter vary all over the place. Some keep good time, others drift by minutes a day. Sounds like you got one of the good ones. — Chris Green

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The clock I saw in the store had the minutes and the hours wrong. At the time I lived in a high-rise apartment building, so I figured that if it could not receive signals in the mall, it would not do very well in my apartment either. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->-:I saw one in a store and it had the wrong time. So they don’t work >-:everywhere. A GPS clock would work better. Following are some GPS clock >-:links… >-: > Were the minutes correct, or was it totally incorrect?  I was having a > problem with mine until I reset it to the correct time zone. >-:http://www.torpeytime.com/Clocks/GPS-1.htm >-: >-:http://www.absolutetime.com/products/100mod.htm >-: >-:http://www.allclocks.com/gps.htm

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Dunno what you have to do to get it to happen in that other OS. > Linux:  ntpdate > -SC > Still better, NTP (ntpd or xntpd). This can even be had for Window$. > Micro$oft uses SNTP, which is OK on networks with short and > predictable delay. > PC clocks are lousy, though, and have to be slewed frequently to keep > them accurate when running NTP, or they drift out by sometimes minutes > a day when they’re just running ntpdate or the like. Old SPARC boxes > running ntpd and synced to a Stratum 2 or 3 NTP server make rock-solid > local time servers; they can sit in a corner and mark time to the > hundredth of a second for as long as the power stays on.

I run ntpdate whenever I think of it, sometimes days and sometimes weeks apart, and am never off by more than a few seconds.   — Cheers, Bev "I used to be convinced that MicroSquish shipped crap because they simply didn’t give a flying fuck as long as the sheep kept buying their shit. Now, I’m convinced that they really do ship the best products they are capable of writing, and *that’s* tragic."                       – John C. Randolph, about MS quality control.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > There was an article on complexities of their design in the > October 2001 issue of Dr. Dobbs Journal: > http://www.ddjembedded.com/resources/articles/2001/0110m/0110m.htm > Excerpt: >   A friend called a while ago and asked if I knew any reason why his >   new WWVB-based alarm clock might be off by exactly six hours for >   a while, then snap back to agree with his other, nonradio clocks. > Cheers,

That was an interesting article, though I’d pretty much read the same details before. When these clocks came up in another newsgroup some months ago (or maybe it was the issue of clocks that can’t keep time), I posted about how the problem is in some ways because we now have so many clocks.  The further you go back in time, the fewer clocks and watches a household would have.  And being analog, there wasn’t that whole pickiness of "well, this one is two minutes faster than that one".  You often wouldn’t be comparing clocks like that, and you’d glance at a clock and see within a few minutes what time it was, usually more than enough accuracy.  I suppose those analog clocks were reasonably good at keeping time, because they weren’t so mass produced, people paid a reasonable amount, and it was seen as something important. Now, there are clocks in everything; your watch, on the bedside, your car radio, the VCR, the computer, the clock radio in the kitchen, the microwave, the coffee maker, and I might as well stop right there.  They are all digital readout, so it’s really easy to see exactly what time it’s reading, without worrying about parallax and looking carefully to see if the big hand is three ticks past the five, or only two.  That almost begs one to compare clocks, and then the fun begins. An immediate issue is that most of the clocks don’t have a means of setting the seconds.  So you could get everything adjusted to the same time, but they could be off by as much as 59 seconds.  Suddenly, one clock could be reading 12:01 and the other 12:02, even if they weren’t in fact one minute apart.  Then there’s the issue of how well each clock keeps the time.  Thirty years ago, if you bought a digital clock, likely it was adjusted carefully so it did keep accurate time.  Now, they are far cheaper and they may not even have a means of adjusting the accuracy. Certainly, it’s hard to imagine some guy somewhere carefully adjusting each clock and watch, though you would expect that in the days of mechanical clocks, because labor has now become much more costly than the innards of the clock.  So the clocks start going out of sync almost immediately. You can have clocks everywhere, because technology makes them cheap, but that practically guarantees that they won’t all display the same time.  And since they aren’t adjusted to keep proper time, then of course with time they won’t be reading "the right time". These "atomic clocks" in some ways seem to be a result of all this. Instead of putting money into making the clocks read properly in the first place, let’s add plenty of high tech stuff so the clocks get reset to the right time each night.  It is in some ways a gimmick, because most people don’t need such high accuracy, they merely don’t want all their numerous clocks reading a different time. And that’s not going to be fixed, unless all those clocks in the house also become "atomic clocks", so they will all get reset each night and never have much time to accumulate inaccuracies.     Michael

Response:

Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? Do they work well? I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

Response:

> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well? > I wonder how often you have to change the batteries in these, since they have > built in radio receivers to constantly sync the clock time. > I would like to hear opinions from people who own these. Thanks

   I don’t know how often the batteries need to be changed, but all of the ones I’ve seen only sync the time to WWV/etc once per day.    That isn’t to say that the receiver isn’t always running, but a halfway decent design would at least minimize current consumption when it’s not being used.  :-) – Rich

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> Has anyone tried these self-setting wall clocks? > Do they work well?

There was an article on complexities of their design in the October 2001 issue of Dr. Dobbs Journal: http://www.ddjembedded.com/resources/articles/2001/0110m/0110m.htm Excerpt:   A friend called a while ago and asked if I knew any reason why his   new WWVB-based alarm clock might be off by exactly six hours for   a while, then snap back to agree with his other, nonradio clocks. Cheers, — In order to understand recursion you must first understand recursion.

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Question:

> What is the average cost of a Senegal?

I know of a pet store in central Illinois that had them for $475, about half a year ago. This store’s prices are often a bit higher than average, but they have nice birds. Prices are lower in Florida and California, since they can breed the birds in unheated outdoor avairies.    Ian Kerfoot

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>> What is the average cost of a Senegal?

I paid 300$US for mine in Seattle… — I dont speak for no-one, but myself!

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I paid $500 for mine in NJ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> What is the average cost of a Senegal? > I paid 300$US for mine in Seattle… > — > I dont speak for no-one, but myself!

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> What is the average cost of a Senegal? > Those of you who have them please tell me your experience.. > (How they get along with people…etc)

In Canada Senegals range from approx. $400-600. You should checkout the Senegal e-mail list. Details for joinging can be found at http://starfire.ne.uiuc.edu/~pres/jardine/jardine.html   Look for the Senegal e-mail link. TTFN K & C B

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What is the average cost of a Senegal? Those of you who have them please tell me your experience.. (How they get along with people…etc)

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I have a senegal (Hobo) that I have had for 7 years.  I don’t know how old he was when I got him, but he was NOT tame.  When our ringneck had psittacosis, we had to give Hobo an oral antibiotic twice a day for 30 days to keep him from catching it.  About 20 days into forcing him to be handled twice a day, he suddenly decided he was my friend!  Now he loves to sit on my shoulder and be petted, and will let me do anything with him.  He will lie on his back on my lap while I clip his nails.  He still bites my wife, though. BTW, the ringneck (Beggar, with an 80 phrase vocab) was so sick he had to be hand fed for about 3 weeks.  For a week, he lay on a towel and actually couldn’t lift his beak.  He lost movement in his legs from a secondary infection.  That was over two years ago.  He is fine now — completely recovered.         Bill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is the average cost of a Senegal? > Those of you who have them please tell me your experience.. > (How they get along with people…etc)

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’m looking for any imformation on Senegal parrots. My wife and I are >seriously considering getting one and we would like to hear some thoughts >about them, positive or negative. We’ve been looking at both amazons and >macaws for some time now and this is the bird we think we would like to >have. > My senegal is definitely a one person bird.  He enjoys destroying > wooden toys (I have to purchase large parrot and macaw toys), and is > very active.  He has a large cage, branches to climb on and plenty of > toys to keep him occupied. > Senegals are not noisy birds, can talk well and tend to bond with one > person in the household. > Kathy Dunning

Duncan, I have a senegal named Lance.  There are pics of him on my web page (see my .sig for the URL).  Lance is also an avid chewer.  He also likes to climb around his cage, swing, and have his head scratched.  He is very affectionate and hates being alone in a room.  As for talking, Lance has never learned any words.  He whistles LOUDLY, clicks, and chirps. Lance is a very dependable bird.  He is almost never afraid of new stuff, has never gotten sick, and is always happy to see me.  He is much less neurotic than my TAG.  Lance is also not too much of a one-person bird. He prefers me, but if I am not home, my husband is an OK substitute. Unlike the TAG, he is not afraid of strangers (won’t let them scratch his head, though). If I can answer any more questions for you, feel free to email. Elaine — Elaine Thompson http://home.connectnet.com/eethomp/

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I’m looking for any imformation on Senegal parrots. My wife and I are seriously considering getting one and we would like to hear some thoughts about them, positive or negative. We’ve been looking at both amazons and macaws for some time now and this is the bird we think we would like to have. Thanks Duncan

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>I’m looking for any imformation on Senegal parrots. My wife and I are >seriously considering getting one and we would like to hear some thoughts >about them, positive or negative. We’ve been looking at both amazons and >macaws for some time now and this is the bird we think we would like to >have. >Thanks >Duncan

Dear Duncan, My senegal is definitely a one person bird.  He enjoys destroying wooden toys (I have to purchase large parrot and macaw toys), and is very active.  He has a large cage, branches to climb on and plenty of toys to keep him occupied. Senegals are not noisy birds, can talk well and tend to bond with one person in the household. Kathy Dunning

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On Senegals.  My Senegal as a baby was quiet and passive.  He soon changed and became very active, vocal, and budgie-like.  He was ("was" because I recently lost him) quick-witted:  slipped out of his cage through the feed cup openings when I was changing his food;  opened almost every piece of hardware I used to close his cage.  Acted like a clown when he wanted my atten- tion.  Said "good night", "good morning","hello" indiscriminately.  Mimiced the ‘keet and the microwave;  also the canary or the telephone, it’s hard to tell which.  He was a pleasure to take anywhere:  the change never bothered him (nothing ever bothered him), and he was quiet (for a parrot).  His portable size and quiet nature meant I could take him everywhere, and I did.  I miss that quality with my cockatoo and macaw. –Carolyn

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<<HI SUE!, who has a Meyer’s, a close relative to senegals, and her bird gets along well with a grey cheeck ‘keet and 2 budgies). >> Hi, Cathy! It took a LOT of work to have the birds co-exist peacefully. The Meyer’s (who is very close to the senegal but a different color – blue-green instead of orange/yellow) tried to lunge at all the birds in the beginning. He quickly learned that behavior got him put back in his cage, so he did it less and less.  I still don’t leave them all together if I leave the room for more than a minute or two, because once in a while I still have to break up a lot of dangerous-looking ‘beaking’ between the Meyer’s and the grey cheek. Basically, the budgies stay out of his way most of the time. While he has never come close enough to hurt them, I think his lunging in the early days scared them. In any case, Poicephalus parrots make great pets. Coco is friendly and affectionate with me and my husband, funny to watch as he climbs around in his tree, and generally good  company. He is also stubborn and has a mind of his own. He understands what ‘no’ means, and tries to ignore it. He continually tests his limits. I think right now he is in the ‘terrible twos’ phase, and will outgrow this, as long as I keep reinforcing what is and isn’t acceptable behavior. Good luck with your senegal!

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>This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus >owners find their birds are one person birds?

I’ve talked to a few Jardine’s Parrot owners. There seems to be a pattern among them of being friendly to everyone for the first year, switching to a one-person-bird mode for a year, and then becoming more social again. I’m not sure what this means. It could be hormonal. Has anyone noticed a similar pattern in other Poicephalus parrots? I’d expect the timing varies according to species. SD

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>> This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus > owners find their birds are one person birds?

Berkeley the Jardine’s Parrot is just fine around people. She likes to be fussed over, will put up with being put on her back in my hand, and regurgitates for special people (family, friends, strangers) that she takes a shine to. She’s six months old, is continually handled by Steve and me, and is taken on outings to the Birdie Boutique from time to time for a refresher course on socializing with many different people at a time. My suspicion is that a bird will bond with a person to the degree that the person interacts with it.  So, if you spend a BUNCH more time with the bird than your SO, birdie will feel more comfortable with you, naturally.  However, if the bird is used to interacting with different people, it at the very least won’t be upset by other people, and should behave with good manners. –Eve

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Re: Re: Senegals > You’re right!  My Meyer’s, Adora, looks like the world is surely coming > to an end when someone other than me approaches her. *However*, if it’s > someone really used to birds, they can get her right on their finger, but > she sure doesn’t look happy about it!  Sort of like she’s been tricked! > One of the things that attracted me to Adora when she was a baby was her > friendliness.  That certainly disappeared quick enough! > How about toys?  Is your Senegal afraid of new toys?

     Ellen,      Otis isn’t afraid of new toys, rather he views them as intruders and decides to wage war on them.  What’s more, he seems to think that everything is something to be bitten at, especially if it moves.  And he HATES the remote control for the TV.      Lately he has taken to saying things like, "I love you," only when I leave him in the other room.  It sounds SO pathetic that I just have to pick him up.  My favorite thing is his new laugh though.           Rhia        Otis — Senegal Parrot,  Sir Duke & King Drake — Zebra Finch Studs

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My good buddy brown head, Chili Birdie, is very definitely my bird.  He gets along OK with the other birds (a peach front conure and a cockatiel-the sun conures really annoy him, though) as long as he’s not in a mood.  He will will be polite to strangers until he gets bored and will seek out John, my SO, for a good head scratch if the mom isn’t home.  I’ve heard that poicephalus tend to be one person birds.  It’ll be interesting to see what everyone else says.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus > owners find their birds are one person birds? > Kat > (note phoenix is spelled wrong in my address on purpose)

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: This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus : owners find their birds are one person birds? I have a Red-Bellied parrot who, definitely, is a one person bird. Tai is very attached to my husband and loves to snuggle against his neck while he lies on the sofa and watches TV.  When I’m around Tai’s favorite game is to see how big a chunk of skin he can bite off one of my fingers :-)  Everyone once in a while, however, for some reason known only to Tai, he’ll decide he wants to sit on my knee. If I try to touch him, however, he’ll try to bite. — Regards, Meryem Primmer                                 System Interconnect Lab                        * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Information Networks Division                  *                         * Hewlett-Packard Company                        *   Semper ubi sub ubi    * Roseville, CA                                  *                         *

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>: This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus >: owners find their birds are one person birds? >I have a Red-Bellied parrot who, definitely, is a one person bird. >Tai is very attached to my husband and loves to snuggle against his >neck while he lies on the sofa and watches TV.  When I’m around Tai’s >favorite game is to see how big a chunk of skin he can bite off one >of my fingers :-)  Everyone once in a while, however, for some >reason known only to Tai, he’ll decide he wants to sit on my knee. >If I try to touch him, however, he’ll try to bite.

I think Poicephalus parrots (ok, my senegal at least) are shameless exploiters of the innocent.  Mango the senegal lunges and often bites one of my housemates, who, by the way, constantly tries to make friends with Mango.  The other day poor Mark sits down to have a salad (he even gave some lettuce to Mango, which she ignored) and Mango goes running down the couch, wobbles to Mark’s chair, climbs up Mark’s arm (or back), and basically tries to dive into the salad bowl.  I kept retrieving Mango and as soon as I put her down she’d take off and do it all over again.  It’s hard for me to defend Mango any longer, she’s getting quite a reputation… (after this incident Mark was muttering "Mango, you scare me…") Awww, but she’s my baby bird :) —  ///// "."/      _//     ///                      /////

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>>This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus >owners find their birds are one person birds? >My Max isn’t really a one person bird.  He is shy around strangers that aren’t >comfortable with birds, but is very friendly with others.  

Our Jardines and our Red-belly prefer my husband’s attention but tolerate me just fine.  I don’t get all of the nice kisses but I do not get chomped on or given the cold shoulder either. This is just my hypothesis but my feeling is that African birds are more calm (especially Poicephalus) than others and seem to enjoy a calmer person.  My husband is the king of calm while I am more, oh let’s just say, colorful in personality.  Birds who prefer me are also a bit more colorful (ok, ok, hyper…) such as my macaw and amazon.  Birds and humans of a certain temperament flock together, perhaps? Denise — "Our egocentric view that we are unique from all other forms of animal life is being jarred to the core."  Rumbaugh & Savage-Rumbaugh (1978)

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Sounds very similar to an incident that happened last night.  My friend Cynthie was sitting in a chair by the window playing with my baby cockatiel.  Chili Birdie (brown head) went through some amazing acrobatics (flapping his wings to swing the cage door over to the conure cage, sliding down the cage bars and on down the leg of the cage stand, hanging upside down from the bottom of the conure cage stand and doing an impressive flip to land on his feet on the floor)to get from his cage to the floor.  Right then the phone rings and I turn my back to answer it. Fifteen seconds later poor Cynthie is going "ouch", "ouch".  I turn around and he’s sitting on her knee and has her terrorized.  Turns out he was POed because she was sitting in HIS chair.  Cynthie went home and he stayed in a snit the rest of the evening.   When he’s sweet, he’s oh, so sweet.  And when he’s rotten, he’s still my baby!

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> Re: Re: Senegals >> How about toys?  Is your Senegal afraid of new toys? >      Ellen, >      Otis isn’t afraid of new toys, rather he views them as intruders and > decides to wage war on them.  What’s more, he seems to think that everything > is something to be bitten at, especially if it moves.  

Elf, the Senegal who graciously (most of the time) allows me to share his apartment :*)  decided that the first toy I presented to him, a bird- sized Kong, was A Mortal Enemy and by turns attacked and fled from it. That happened again with one other new thing; then I changed the way he’s introduced to new toys, thusly:  I take it out of the bag, exclaim over it with ooooh’s and chirps and delighted sounds.  Then I unwrap it, still making a big fuss over it and many happy sounds.  Then I proceed to play with it, talking to it, talking to Elf about it, still out of Elf’s reach, until he’s stretching as far as he can toward it, reaching for it and/or demanding to have it!  Then I gradually show it to him, a bit closer, offering to "share."  As soon as it’s within reach, he grabs it and usually doesn’t give it back.  If it’s a hanging thing destined for the inside of his cage, I first play with it as described, then hang it somewhere outside the cage, continue to play with it until he wants a turn, and once he’s accepted it, hang it on one of the branches on the outside of his cage (his whole cage is a playpen, essentially) and after he’s played with it there, eventually I move it into the cage.  None of this is necessary with new things that are just replacements of Favorite Toys he’s chewed into splinters; those go straight into the cage. The only new thing this has failed to work with is his new Birdy Buddy. THAT is A Fuzzy Yellow Intruder-Bird and to be Killed and Dismembered. I’ve snuggled with it and caressed it, to no avail – he may even be jealous of it, for alienating my affections… Martha and Elf-Birdie

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This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus owners find their birds are one person birds? Kat (note phoenix is spelled wrong in my address on purpose)

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>This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus >owners find their birds are one person birds? >Kat >(note phoenix is spelled wrong in my address on purpose)

My SO answered our senegal is a "one and a half-person bird".  Then again, I am the one that feeds, cleans after and cuddles with the senegal, so it’s only fair! Mango the senegal tolerates my SO ok, but is very unpredic- table (i.e., lures him closer by chirping or offering her neck for scratchies, then chomp!… this usually happens when I am around, or if he is foolish enough to offer a finger when the bird is having a frenzy because "those #$%& budgies are using MY new playpen, aaaargh!!"). —  ///// "."/      _//     ///                      /////

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>This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus >owners find their birds are one person birds?

My Max isn’t really a one person bird.  He is shy around strangers that aren’t comfortable with birds, but is very friendly with others.   Eric Hill

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Re: Senegals > This will be quick–how many senegal or other poicephalus > owners find their birds are one person birds?

     Kat,      Otis used to let anyone hold him but I’ve noticed that the older he gets, the more aggressive he becomes to the rest of the family.  If they attempt to pick him up and he makes to bite them, if they are intimidated by it they haven’t a chance.  But if they ignore Otis and get their finger in close enough and boldly say "Up!," he will allow them to hold him without further problems.  Or if I pick him up and set him on someone else, it will be fine but he just looks over at me as if to say, "I’ve had just about enough of this."  I think you would need to have others holding a Senegal on a daily basis to keep it from becoming a one-person bird.                Rhia        Otis — Senegal Parrot,  Sir Duke & King Drake — Zebra Finch Studs

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>Sometimes we can’t even >leave the room without her putting up a fuss.  Senegals are best placed >with families or in other environments where someone is home most or >all of the time.

Our senegal wants someone within eyesight all of the time, too.  Luckily, with our work schedules, someone is home most of the day.  He is now 7 months old and says several words, but doesn’t imitate sounds or whistles.  He does scream his loudest scream when the microwave beeps and he is, heaven forbid, not in the kitchen!! kathy

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >} I have just purchased a breeding pair of Senegals. >} >} I was told that the female (who is smaller)is semi tame and if I wanted to >} properly tame her, should separate them. This I have done. >} >} Can anyone suggest a good method of taming. I am in all the time as I work >} from home so have plenty if time to dedicate to these birds? >Just spend lots of time with them, and give it several weeks.  Senegals >are great, definitely a man’s bird.  They are very sturdy and love being >manhandled (gently of course).  I wish I could wrassle with my GCC >and tiels the same way.  Ours loves being turned on her back and >getting her beak scratched, right where it meets her face.  Do that and >you’ll have a friend for life. >They’ll learn to trust you only if you trust them, which might entail letting >them bite you a bit so they can learn what hurts and what doesn’t.  Once >they learn they’ll never bite hard enough to be a problem (unlike other >species such as conures who can bite REEEEAALLL hard without any >warning and are never completely trustworthy). >} What treats do they like? >Just about anything.  Ours likes popcorn, and anything with cheese. >} Can they be taught to talk? >They are usually poor talkers.  Ours managed a throaty word or two >after a year but it never developed into anything more.  One trick is to >not teach them whistles if you want them to talk.  Once they learn >whistling sounds they almost never pick up speech. >} I would like your help on these matters. I have kept cockatiels, budgies etc >} for many years now and this is my next step up the ladder. >And a great step it was.  They are by far the most affectionate birds >we’ve ever owned.  The cost of that affection is time — they do NOT >like being left alone for extended periods.  Sometimes we can’t even >leave the room without her putting up a fuss.  Senegals are best placed >with families or in other environments where someone is home most or >all of the time. >Mike (another Mike)

Am I the only one who considers it cruel to split up a bonded breeding pair of birds instead of buying a hand reared bird? I,m sure they will pine for their partnet. They do after all form a strong bond. I personally would *never* split up a bonded and breeding pair of birds purely for my own convenience. If you wanted a tame bird, why did you not buy a hand reared baby?

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} I have just purchased a breeding pair of Senegals. } } I was told that the female (who is smaller)is semi tame and if I wanted to } properly tame her, should separate them. This I have done. } } Can anyone suggest a good method of taming. I am in all the time as I work } from home so have plenty if time to dedicate to these birds?

Just spend lots of time with them, and give it several weeks.  Senegals are great, definitely a man’s bird.  They are very sturdy and love being manhandled (gently of course).  I wish I could wrassle with my GCC and tiels the same way.  Ours loves being turned on her back and getting her beak scratched, right where it meets her face.  Do that and you’ll have a friend for life. They’ll learn to trust you only if you trust them, which might entail letting them bite you a bit so they can learn what hurts and what doesn’t.  Once they learn they’ll never bite hard enough to be a problem (unlike other species such as conures who can bite REEEEAALLL hard without any warning and are never completely trustworthy). } What treats do they like?

Just about anything.  Ours likes popcorn, and anything with cheese. } Can they be taught to talk?

They are usually poor talkers.  Ours managed a throaty word or two after a year but it never developed into anything more.  One trick is to not teach them whistles if you want them to talk.  Once they learn whistling sounds they almost never pick up speech. } I would like your help on these matters. I have kept cockatiels, budgies etc } for many years now and this is my next step up the ladder.

And a great step it was.  They are by far the most affectionate birds we’ve ever owned.  The cost of that affection is time — they do NOT like being left alone for extended periods.  Sometimes we can’t even leave the room without her putting up a fuss.  Senegals are best placed with families or in other environments where someone is home most or all of the time. Mike (another Mike)

Response:

I have just purchased a breeding pair of Senegals. I was told that the female (who is smaller)is semi tame and if I wanted to properly tame her, should separate them. This I have done. Can anyone suggest a good method of taming. I am in all the time as I work from home so have plenty if time to dedicate to these birds? What treats do they like? Can they be taught to talk? I would like your help on these matters. I have kept cockatiels, budgies etc for many years now and this is my next step up the ladder. Thanks in advance Mike

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Question:

Hi, we will go to Aruba and Curacao in Juli/August. Does anybody know low budget Hotels on this island’s? Do you have general infos? Thanks Tom

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… stayed in a low budget hotel in Curacao one night on my way to Bonaire a few years ago.  The insects and the little furry things on the floor were all about the same size, with the insects only slightly outnumbering the furry things.  I’ll go back only when I can afford better than a low budget hotel. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > we will go to Aruba and Curacao in Juli/August. > Does anybody know low budget Hotels on this island’s? > Do you have general infos? > Thanks > Tom

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Not sure what you consider budget, but studios at Chogogo are $75 per night, or if there are several of you, you can get up to a 2 bedroom, 2 bath bungalow.  We were here for a week in January.  Although this is a very nice, new resort, prices, IMHO, are very reasonable.  Here’s the site: http://www.chogogo.com/english/index.htm Sandi

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> Not sure what you consider budget, but studios at Chogogo are $75 per night, > or if there are several of you, you can get up to a 2 bedroom, 2 bath > bungalow.  We were here for a week in January.  Although this is a very > nice, new resort, prices, IMHO, are very reasonable.  Here’s the site: > http://www.chogogo.com/english/index.htm

I once stayed at a really junky place on Curucao for roughly this price. This looks like a find to me.

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It really was a find, we thought.  The resort, and the entire area, is recently built up, in the last 5 years.  Our bungalow was 2 br, 2 ba with a living/kitchen/dining area that opened up onto the porch.  Each bath had a shower, sink and toilet.  The kitchen had table, refrigerator, sink, dishwasher, and stove.  All utensils, etc. are included.   Don’t remember about a microwave.  Cleaning and linen change is 2X per week.  You may exchange towels and beach towels every day at the front office.  One note: no washcloths.  To me this was odd. We fortunately, had a couple that we had wrapped things in to keep them from breaking.  Here are some photos.  The first two albums are photos from Curacao, the third is just of Chogogo. Hope this helps Curacao – December 31, 2001-January 7, 2002 http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/29680524WICSyQGUck Curacao – Album 2 http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/31651844EYeTwswaLf Chogogo Resort Photos http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/33864379UXWHVY Sandi

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> One note: > no washcloths.  To me this was odd. We fortunately, had a couple > that we had wrapped things in to keep them from breaking.  

It some European cultures people have a "bath mit" [or mitten] they bring with them. Thus washcloths aren’t universal.

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> Curacao – December 31, 2001-January 7, 2002 > http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/29680524WICSyQGUck > Curacao – Album 2 > http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/31651844EYeTwswaLf > Chogogo Resort Photos > http://cards.webshots.com/cp-20527989-bHor-album/33864379UXWHVY > Sandi

Nice pics. It looks like you have been over the whole island. Alex

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For a lot of whatto do and where to eat info on Aruba please see my web site: http://www.arubahouse.com Justscroll past the house stuff. Hugh – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi, >we will go to Aruba and Curacao in Juli/August. >Does anybody know low budget Hotels on this island’s? >Do you have general infos? >Thanks >Tom

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Question:

ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:))

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

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Yes, but… these heating pads/discs are a 1-time expenditure (about $20) – Vs. turning the heat up, which is an on-going expenditure. (Something like 3% of one’s heating bill for every degree, IIRC) Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not > more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:)) > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

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Or one of those Snuggle Safe Heat discs that Gail Gunberg recommended in Nov. or December.  You put it in the microwave for a few – several minutes, & it remains warm for hours.  I think it’s available at PetsMart, & I know it’s at Drs. Foster & Smith. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA > If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat > pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the > outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at > them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took > them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked > on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed > them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it > was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps > curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two > blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. > They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. > Hope this helps! > Rebecca

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>Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA

If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. Hope this helps! Rebecca

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> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch.

Do they look and feel a little "fluffier" than they did before you lowered the temperature? If so, it’s probably because they’ve trapped air between their inner and outer fur to insulate themselves. Cats do this naturally in cold air, and I doubt that they’re any less comfortable than you are, really. Are they sleeping with their paws tucked underneath them? Are they burrowing under blankets or snuggling closer than usual? If so, they may notice the temperature difference, but again, it would have to be pretty chilly for the cats to suffer discomfort. Cats have a lot of fur (and from what I’ve read, they’re actually *less* sensitive to temperature changes than we are- thus cats’ penchants for sleeping in the sunny spots even on warm days). ;-) Laura — One man’s mundane and boring existence is another man’s Technicolor. -Tick, Strange Days

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In Australia winter can be quite chilling for a month or two, especially at night. We don’t normally have heating in our houses, not in the warmer parts of AU. We just use electric /gas heaters, electric blankets, etc. If the night is cold, Xena just crawls under the doona with me, so I guess, it might be an idea to leave some ,nesting material’ like your old jumpers or blankets around the house ready for your cats to snuggle in if they want to? Andr0 & >^^< :) )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that might not bother us? Susan L.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

> Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher > than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that > might not bother us?

Cats have more insulation than we do tho.  Unfortunately, its hard to talk to a cat and ask it if its cold.  I would think like a person that unless its sick, it should be ok. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Susan L. > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Hi… I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. Any advice? TIA

Response:

> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

I’m in the same position – I have the thermostat set at 55degrees.  My cat occasionally has cold pads and ears, but that’s all.  He’s a little cuddlier when the room is chilly, but he’s fine otherwise.  Remember, lots of cats live outdoors all winter, and they survive if they can get enough food.  HTH, Chakolate — It is never too late to be what you might have been.  George Eliot

Response:

ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:))

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Yes, but… these heating pads/discs are a 1-time expenditure (about $20) – Vs. turning the heat up, which is an on-going expenditure. (Something like 3% of one’s heating bill for every degree, IIRC) Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not > more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:)) > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Or one of those Snuggle Safe Heat discs that Gail Gunberg recommended in Nov. or December.  You put it in the microwave for a few – several minutes, & it remains warm for hours.  I think it’s available at PetsMart, & I know it’s at Drs. Foster & Smith. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA > If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat > pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the > outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at > them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took > them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked > on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed > them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it > was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps > curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two > blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. > They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. > Hope this helps! > Rebecca

Response:

>Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA

If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. Hope this helps! Rebecca

Response:

> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch.

Do they look and feel a little "fluffier" than they did before you lowered the temperature? If so, it’s probably because they’ve trapped air between their inner and outer fur to insulate themselves. Cats do this naturally in cold air, and I doubt that they’re any less comfortable than you are, really. Are they sleeping with their paws tucked underneath them? Are they burrowing under blankets or snuggling closer than usual? If so, they may notice the temperature difference, but again, it would have to be pretty chilly for the cats to suffer discomfort. Cats have a lot of fur (and from what I’ve read, they’re actually *less* sensitive to temperature changes than we are- thus cats’ penchants for sleeping in the sunny spots even on warm days). ;-) Laura — One man’s mundane and boring existence is another man’s Technicolor. -Tick, Strange Days

Response:

In Australia winter can be quite chilling for a month or two, especially at night. We don’t normally have heating in our houses, not in the warmer parts of AU. We just use electric /gas heaters, electric blankets, etc. If the night is cold, Xena just crawls under the doona with me, so I guess, it might be an idea to leave some ,nesting material’ like your old jumpers or blankets around the house ready for your cats to snuggle in if they want to? Andr0 & >^^< :) )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that might not bother us? Susan L.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

> Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher > than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that > might not bother us?

Cats have more insulation than we do tho.  Unfortunately, its hard to talk to a cat and ask it if its cold.  I would think like a person that unless its sick, it should be ok. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Susan L. > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Hi… I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. Any advice? TIA

Response:

> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

I’m in the same position – I have the thermostat set at 55degrees.  My cat occasionally has cold pads and ears, but that’s all.  He’s a little cuddlier when the room is chilly, but he’s fine otherwise.  Remember, lots of cats live outdoors all winter, and they survive if they can get enough food.  HTH, Chakolate — It is never too late to be what you might have been.  George Eliot

Response:

ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:))

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Yes, but… these heating pads/discs are a 1-time expenditure (about $20) – Vs. turning the heat up, which is an on-going expenditure. (Something like 3% of one’s heating bill for every degree, IIRC) Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> ehem…I believe Kristy is looking for non-expensive solutions here? Not > more spending…..just a remark…..Regs, Andr0:)) > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Or one of those Snuggle Safe Heat discs that Gail Gunberg recommended in Nov. or December.  You put it in the microwave for a few – several minutes, & it remains warm for hours.  I think it’s available at PetsMart, & I know it’s at Drs. Foster & Smith. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA > If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat > pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the > outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at > them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took > them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked > on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed > them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it > was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps > curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two > blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. > They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. > Hope this helps! > Rebecca

Response:

>Hi… >I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. >One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my >fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that >lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) >Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I >pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, >basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. >Any advice? >TIA

If you think that they may be cold, you could try one of those cat pads with "new space-age material" in them.  They have fake fur on the outside, and the middle layer reflects the cat’s body heat back at them.  I got one for my two, and they really like it, although it took them a few days to get used to it.  They crinkle when they get walked on, and that made the cats a bit wary for a few days.  But I bribed them with catnip, and once they got on it for a bit, they decided it was a really nice idea.  And they really do work… one cat sleeps curled up on my hip, so I throw the pad over it, and even through two blankets I can tell the difference between where the pad is and isn’t. They cost around $20 out here, so it may be within your budget. Hope this helps! Rebecca

Response:

> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch.

Do they look and feel a little "fluffier" than they did before you lowered the temperature? If so, it’s probably because they’ve trapped air between their inner and outer fur to insulate themselves. Cats do this naturally in cold air, and I doubt that they’re any less comfortable than you are, really. Are they sleeping with their paws tucked underneath them? Are they burrowing under blankets or snuggling closer than usual? If so, they may notice the temperature difference, but again, it would have to be pretty chilly for the cats to suffer discomfort. Cats have a lot of fur (and from what I’ve read, they’re actually *less* sensitive to temperature changes than we are- thus cats’ penchants for sleeping in the sunny spots even on warm days). ;-) Laura — One man’s mundane and boring existence is another man’s Technicolor. -Tick, Strange Days

Response:

In Australia winter can be quite chilling for a month or two, especially at night. We don’t normally have heating in our houses, not in the warmer parts of AU. We just use electric /gas heaters, electric blankets, etc. If the night is cold, Xena just crawls under the doona with me, so I guess, it might be an idea to leave some ,nesting material’ like your old jumpers or blankets around the house ready for your cats to snuggle in if they want to? Andr0 & >^^< :) )

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that might not bother us? Susan L.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

> Purely unscientifc thought — since cats’ usual body temperature is higher > than ours, wouldn’t they be more likely to feel chilled in temperatures that > might not bother us?

Cats have more insulation than we do tho.  Unfortunately, its hard to talk to a cat and ask it if its cold.  I would think like a person that unless its sick, it should be ok. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Susan L. > Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have > two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When > I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

Response:

Hi… I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. Any advice? TIA

Response:

> Hi… > I am curious as to how warm the house should be for the cats… We have two. > One is about 2 years and the other is 10 months. Problem is…. me and my > fiancee are unemployed and have turned down the heat. (Also I heard that > lowering it one degree causes your body to burn 50 more calories a day!) > Anyways, my question is… do you think my cats are affected by this? When I > pick them up their paws are chilly (we have hardwood floors in kitchen, > basement and bedrooms…..)…. Also their fur seems cool to the touch. > Any advice? > TIA

I’m in the same position – I have the thermostat set at 55degrees.  My cat occasionally has cold pads and ears, but that’s all.  He’s a little cuddlier when the room is chilly, but he’s fine otherwise.  Remember, lots of cats live outdoors all winter, and they survive if they can get enough food.  HTH, Chakolate — It is never too late to be what you might have been.  George Eliot

Response:

Question:

How about an X-10 based micro demand manager with some priority logic that turns off the fridge when the well pump runs, and so on, for businesses with demand charges and off-grid houses with limited inverter capacity. Brand Electronics might build and sell these. A prototype might use standard off-the-shelf parts, a current transformer and X10 Powerflash interface to sense each appliance’s status and a PC with an X10 control board, with a replacement $16 2040 X10 duplex smart receptacle to control each appliance. These receptacles have two outlets. One is always on, and the other is X10-controllable. Our smallish UU church used 1475 kWh of electrical energy last month, with an 11.1 kW peak half-hour demand. Our utility PECO calculates the bill by multiplying the peak demand by 80 hours to find the number of kWh in "the first block." They sell us each of the first 80×11.1 = 888 kWh for $0.2158, ie $191.63 for the first block. In wintertime, the second block, 1475-888 = 587 kWh, costs $0.075×587 = $44.02. The total is $235.65. One PECO customer saved several hundred dollars per month… A food vendor was paying a large demand charge with about 10 walk-in fridges randomly cycling. He simply added a round-robin sequencer… Over a month, our average church power is 1475kWh/(30dx24h) = 2049 watts. If we could completely smooth out our demand we’d pay $0.2158×80x2.049 = $35.37 for the first block of 164 kWh plus $0.075x(1475-164) = $98.33 for the rest, a total of $133.70, $102/month or 43% less. Our peak electrical usage probably happens on Sundays, in the kitchen, when we might be using the electric range, both microwave ovens, all 3 coffee urns, a toaster oven, a dishwasher, a fridge and a water cooler. If we could cut our peak demand from 11.1 to 6 kW by prioritizing these appliances so the fridge turned off when the microwave ran, and so on, we might pay $0.2158×80hx6kW = $103.58 plus 0.075(1475-480) = $74.63 for the second block, a total of $178.21, a savings of 24% or $57.41/month. How many US churches and businesses could use one of these systems? Nick

Response:

Aid for the Low-Income Home Energy Assistance Program may be coming faster than changes in the weather. The House and the Senate Appropriations Committee have approved a supplemental approbations bill for this year including $300 million more for LIHEAP. Bush had requested only $150 million. Congress doubled the figure because spikes in heating prices already drained reserves. The funding could go to help households hit by natural disasters or other emergencies. http://www.liok.org

Response:

> How about an X-10 based micro demand manager with some priority logic > that turns off the fridge when the well pump runs, and so on, for > businesses with demand charges and off-grid houses with limited > inverter capacity. Brand Electronics might build and sell these.

We use the X-10 and really like it!  We haven’t tried it on large appliances like the refrigerator, but it works like a charm on the coffee maker.  If you are trying to control a compact fluorescent, then you have to use the appliance module not the lamp module.  The lamp module is only for incandescent lights.  We had a problem with one in wall switch because of noise in the line and even a replacement switch wouldn’t work properly.  You can get a line buffer, but we haven’t yet.  The living room lights are on the system as is the coffee maker and a few other lights.  We even have one of those cameras that everyone complains about.  I still have to hook up the two motion sensors.  Other than that we are quite happy with X-10 even though it took DH a little time to warm up to it. However, there are problems with X-10 and it might not be the best solution for businesses.  I know there is a hard wired system that is more dependable than X-10.  I follow the comp.home.automation news group.  They are quite knowledgeable and can point you in the right direction.  I hope this helps.

Response:

>…there are problems with X-10 and it might not be the best >solution for businesses.  I know there is a hard wired system that is >more dependable than X-10…

A new system using the X10 protocol might improve reliability with some error detection (a CRC) and retransmission… Nick

Response:

PMFJI, I’ve often assumed that X10 stuff would be hopeless where AC power is supplied by a modified sine wave (or modified square wave, depending on whether you sell them or own them) inverter. Anyone have direct experience? -s

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->…there are problems with X-10 and it might not be the best >solution for businesses.  I know there is a hard wired system that is >more dependable than X-10… > A new system using the X10 protocol might improve reliability > with some error detection (a CRC) and retransmission… > Nick

Response:

> PMFJI, > I’ve often assumed that X10 stuff would be hopeless where AC > power is supplied by a modified sine wave (or modified > square wave, depending on whether you sell them or own them) > inverter. Anyone have direct experience?

FWIW, I couldn’t get it to work at all on the Trace SW series. It does work on our Exeltech true sine, but only for limited distance. I never tried filters etc. Wayne.

Response:

>FWIW, I couldn’t get it to work at all on the Trace SW series. It does work >on our Exeltech true sine, but only for limited distance. I never tried >filters etc.

I’d guess it can be done well, with standard filters, bridges, agc, and an X10 signal strength meter. Nick

Response:

>FWIW, I couldn’t get it to work at all on the Trace SW series. It does work >on our Exeltech true sine, but only for limited distance. I never tried >filters etc. > I’d guess it can be done well, with standard filters, bridges, agc, > and an X10 signal strength meter. > Nick

At the time I was trying it, Trace couldn’t offer any helpful advice. However I’d guess, strike that… I’d bet, that you’re correct. ;-) Some of those accessories seem kinda’ pricey though. Someday I’m going to get rid of our X10 stuff in favor of a few of those Intermatic battery-powered timers, since that would suit our applications better anyway. The model stocked by most places are the 3 wire $35 version. But I found out recently that there’s an identical in appearance, 2 wire $22 model (no 3-way function). Wayne

Response:

> However, there are problems with X-10 and it might not be the best > solution for businesses.  I know there is a hard wired system that is > more dependable than X-10.  I follow the comp.home.automation news > group.  They are quite knowledgeable and can point you in the right > direction.  I hope this helps.

And recently a discussion there pointed to an X-10 product that is more reliable than the low end product many hobbyists and homeowners are accustomed to using. Check out this info in a repost from that group.  I added the web site link from a later message. Newsgroups: comp.home.automation Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 8:14 AM > FWIW, the ACT product line is a more robust line of X-10 products that > uses both X-10 and their own A-10 codes to provide industrial control > quality automation.  The ACT stuff is very good as is their support. > Prices are higher as you would expect for high grade components.

Thanks for the nice comment, Bruce.  However, just to clarify, none of our stock "A10" (which stands for ‘Advanced X-10′) products use any "new" codes. We use the published X-10 protocol and are totally X-10 compatible, its just that our products use many of the commands that had been ignored (and misunderstood) for a long time.  For instance, we have many transmitters that transmit the address/command, then send the address/status-request, then wait for a response.  If they do not receive a reply (or get the wrong reply) they will go through the address/command, address/status-request again, up to 3 retries.  Of course, for this to work, the transmitter must be talking to a receiver capable of replying. We do have a proprietary protocol but we use that only for our work with electric utilities where security is an issue. -Phil K, ACT. See  www.act-solutions.com Steve Young

Response:

Question:

I prefer Oat Bran – salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion flakes, olive oil, perhaps touch of oregano. Also works well with grits. The oat bran is very well tolerated, BG-wise. starr

Response:

I like oatmeal too.  Do you use milk in it? Larry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I prefer Oat Bran – salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion flakes, olive oil, > perhaps touch of oregano. Also works well with grits. The oat bran is very > well tolerated, BG-wise. > starr

Response:

This post not CC’d by email >I prefer Oat Bran – salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion flakes, olive oil, >perhaps touch of oregano. Also works well with grits. The oat bran is very >well tolerated, BG-wise. >starr

G’day G’day Starr,   Great idea.  An idea I have been entertaining on the back burner of my mind is making tortillas of barley.  Need to buy a waffle iron or similar.   I hadn’t consider oat bran. Thanks, — Quentin Grady       ^  ^  / New Zealand,       >#,#< [                     / /     "… and the blind dog was leading." http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/quentin

Response:

No milk – just olive oil and "Mediterranean" seasoning.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like oatmeal too.  Do you use milk in it? > Larry > I prefer Oat Bran – salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion flakes, olive oil, > perhaps touch of oregano. Also works well with grits. The oat bran is very > well tolerated, BG-wise. > starr

Response:

Very intriguing!  I’d love a basic recipe for tortillas.  What would you put into them besides the grain….barley or oats? Pat Trope

 G’day G’day Starr, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->   Great idea.  An idea I have been entertaining on the back burner of > my mind is making tortillas of barley.  Need to buy a waffle iron or > similar.   I hadn’t consider oat bran. > Thanks, > — > Quentin Grady       ^  ^  / > New Zealand,       >#,#< [ >                     / / > "… and the blind dog was leading." > http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/quentin

Response:

This post not CC’d by email >Very intriguing!  I’d love a basic recipe for tortillas.  What would you put >into them besides the grain….barley or oats? >Pat Trope

G’day G’day Pat,   I like to make them wafer thin so the amount of carbs is reduced.  A mix of barley, oats, soya bean and/or lentils would do for a start.   A zillion trials later I might figure out what actually works. For fillings I do something like the Mexican refried beans and salad. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > G’day G’day Starr, >   Great idea.  An idea I have been entertaining on the back burner of > my mind is making tortillas of barley.  Need to buy a waffle iron or > similar.   I hadn’t consider oat bran. > Thanks, > — > Quentin Grady       ^  ^  / > New Zealand,       >#,#< [ >                     / / > "… and the blind dog was leading." > http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/quentin

– Quentin Grady       ^  ^  / New Zealand,       >#,#< [                     / /     "… and the blind dog was leading." http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/quentin

Response:

Here’s a Staffordshire oatcake recipe which can double as tortillas.  No carb breakdown, so I have no idea what this will do to people’s BG levels. I can normally get away with two, if filled with some grated cheese and a little bacon, but as always, YMMV. STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES 16 ounces fine ground oatmeal half ounce fresh yeast 1 pint milk pinch of salt water to mix Warm the milk until hand hot.  In a large bowl, mix the yeast to a cream with a small amount of milk, then stir in the remainder.  Add the salt. Then add the oatmeal a little at a time, stirring continuously.  Leave the thick batter so formed in a warm kitchen overnight – it will thicken considerably and possibly rise up the side of the bowl.  After standing, add water slowly to make a thin creamy mixture, the consistency of pancake mix. Lightly grease a frying pan and heat.  Pour into the pan a cupful or so of the mix and tilt the pan to spread out the mix along the bottom of the pan so that a thin cake results.  Cook until it starts to look dry then turn; finish cooking for a few moments and then turn onto a wire tray to cool. Makes about 14-16 oatcakes (depending on the pan size and thickness of oatcake). Reheat in a little oil or butter in a frying pan, or microwave, with filling of choice. Savoury fillings include bacon, sausages, brown sauce, melted cheese, mushrooms.separately or all at once!  They are even tasty with just a little salt. Sweet fillings include bananas, syrup (maple or golden), and cream. Dried yeast can also be used – follow instructions on the packet to make up the yeast/milk mix. — Type 2 since Aug 99/diet only/age 42/UK

Response:

Salford Viv said in this very newsgroup… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Here’s a Staffordshire oatcake recipe which can double as tortillas.  No > carb breakdown, so I have no idea what this will do to people’s BG levels. > I can normally get away with two, if filled with some grated cheese and a > little bacon, but as always, YMMV. > STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES > 16 ounces fine ground oatmeal > half ounce fresh yeast > 1 pint milk > pinch of salt > water to mix > Warm the milk until hand hot.  In a large bowl, mix the yeast to a cream > with a small amount of milk, then stir in the remainder.  Add the salt. > Then add the oatmeal a little at a time, stirring continuously.  Leave the > thick batter so formed in a warm kitchen overnight – it will thicken > considerably and possibly rise up the side of the bowl.  After standing, add > water slowly to make a thin creamy mixture, the consistency of pancake mix. > Lightly grease a frying pan and heat.  Pour into the pan a cupful or so of > the mix and tilt the pan to spread out the mix along the bottom of the pan > so that a thin cake results.  Cook until it starts to look dry then turn; > finish cooking for a few moments and then turn onto a wire tray to cool. > Makes about 14-16 oatcakes (depending on the pan size and thickness of > oatcake). > Reheat in a little oil or butter in a frying pan, or microwave, with filling > of choice. > Savoury fillings include bacon, sausages, brown sauce, melted cheese, > mushrooms.separately or all at once!  They are even tasty with just a little > salt. > Sweet fillings include bananas, syrup (maple or golden), and cream. > Dried yeast can also be used – follow instructions on the packet to make up > the yeast/milk mix. > — > Type 2 since Aug 99/diet only/age 42/UK

Salford….? Ratty — Type 2 since 93 And a brand new Type One for 2002!

Response:

Where I was born, a little place that has now to all intents and purposes been swallowed up by the great metropolis that is Manchester, UK.  Some districts of Salford – particularly those around the dockside area – have a bad reputation for violence and aggressive behaviour amongst the residents. "Salford Viv" was therefore a jokey nickname given to me several years ago by someone who thought that I needed a "street name" to reflect my then not very aggressive attitude to life.  He even drew me a fetching caricature to go with it, showing my alter-ego complete with cauliflower ear, facial scars, knuckledusters and knobbly knees above Doc Marten boots.  Since becoming diabetic, and seeing how aggressively you have to deal with it to keep healthy, it seemed the perfect nom de plume. This recipe BTW is a genuine handed down thing from my great-grandmother, who was born in Staffordshire. — Type 2 since Aug 99/diet only/age 42/UK

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Salford Viv said in this very newsgroup… > Here’s a Staffordshire oatcake recipe which can double as tortillas.  No > carb breakdown, so I have no idea what this will do to people’s BG levels. > I can normally get away with two, if filled with some grated cheese and a > little bacon, but as always, YMMV. > STAFFORDSHIRE OATCAKES > 16 ounces fine ground oatmeal > half ounce fresh yeast > 1 pint milk > pinch of salt > water to mix > Warm the milk until hand hot.  In a large bowl, mix the yeast to a cream > with a small amount of milk, then stir in the remainder.  Add the salt. > Then add the oatmeal a little at a time, stirring continuously.  Leave the > thick batter so formed in a warm kitchen overnight – it will thicken > considerably and possibly rise up the side of the bowl.  After standing, add > water slowly to make a thin creamy mixture, the consistency of pancake mix. > Lightly grease a frying pan and heat.  Pour into the pan a cupful or so of > the mix and tilt the pan to spread out the mix along the bottom of the pan > so that a thin cake results.  Cook until it starts to look dry then turn; > finish cooking for a few moments and then turn onto a wire tray to cool. > Makes about 14-16 oatcakes (depending on the pan size and thickness of > oatcake). > Reheat in a little oil or butter in a frying pan, or microwave, with filling > of choice. > Savoury fillings include bacon, sausages, brown sauce, melted cheese, > mushrooms.separately or all at once!  They are even tasty with just a little > salt. > Sweet fillings include bananas, syrup (maple or golden), and cream. > Dried yeast can also be used – follow instructions on the packet to make up > the yeast/milk mix. > — > Type 2 since Aug 99/diet only/age 42/UK > Salford….? > Ratty > — > Type 2 since 93 > And a brand new Type One for 2002!

Response:

Salford Viv said in this very newsgroup… > Where I was born, a little place that has now to all intents and purposes > been swallowed up by the great metropolis that is Manchester, UK.  Some > districts of Salford – particularly those around the dockside area – have a > bad reputation for violence and aggressive behaviour amongst the residents.

I’m not that bad! Ratty (lived in Salford for six years now…) — Type 2 since 93 Can I get a new pancreas under the warranty? This one’s burnt out….

Response:

> Ratty > (lived in Salford for six years now…) > — > Type 2 since 93 > Can I get a new pancreas under the warranty? > This one’s burnt out….

What warranty? Still, you could try talking to the designer. Annette.

Response:

Question:

  When I had 3 broken ribs, a rib brace helped a lot. It’s like a giant-sized ace bandage that went from under my breasts to my waist and had a velcro front closure.  I wore it during the day for the first couple of weeks. Made getting around a little bit less painful. Hope you heal quickly. (so glad the mtx seems to kicking in!!!)                                             Be well,  Patty *~A friend is someone who reaches out for your hand, and touches your heart.~*

Response:

> >Ya know, I think the MTX is finally working.  My hip feels better than > >so, AMAZING!!!! > Thanks so much, Char.  Technicolor doesn’t even begin to describe what > some of my bruises look like.  Picture a CD-sized black bruise on my > thigh.  Picture a scraped knee.  I haven’t had a scraped knee since I was > a kid.  Picture a bruise that encircles my lower leg and ankle, like a > sock.  But, none of that really hurts compared to my rib.  Gawd, what > have I done?  <sigh> > But, you’re right.  Something *is* going my way.  And, I cling to that > thought. > Di

In a few more days you might want to try my mom’s old family cure for bruises. We both bruise easily and I’m clumsy so it comes in handy. Take a small towel.  (What we used to call a face towel, back when there were such things) Or a thin towel like they have in motels or the hospital.  A kitchen terry towel will work too.  Get it a bit damp and fold it small. Microwave for 30-45 seconds.  Shake out and as soon as its cool enough to touch wrap it over the bruise till it cools off.  Repeat a time or two till the area is pink and warm.  In your case you might want to have two towels going.  Do this for 10 to 15 minutes twice a day.  This will be hotter and wetter than a rice sock, and it improves the circulation to get that last yuck color out of a bruise. Jo

Response:

> >Ya know, I think the MTX is finally working.  My hip feels better than > >so, AMAZING!!!! > Thanks so much, Char.  Technicolor doesn’t even begin to describe what > some of my bruises look like.  Picture a CD-sized black bruise on my > thigh.  Picture a scraped knee.  I haven’t had a scraped knee since I was > a kid.  Picture a bruise that encircles my lower leg and ankle, like a > sock.  But, none of that really hurts compared to my rib.  Gawd, what > have I done?  <sigh> > But, you’re right.  Something *is* going my way.  And, I cling to that > thought. > Di

In a few more days you might want to try my mom’s old family cure for bruises. We both bruise easily and I’m clumsy so it comes in handy. Take a small towel.  (What we used to call a face towel, back when there were such things) Or a thin towel like they have in motels or the hospital.  A kitchen terry towel will work too.  Get it a bit damp and fold it small. Microwave for 30-45 seconds.  Shake out and as soon as its cool enough to touch wrap it over the bruise till it cools off.  Repeat a time or two till the area is pink and warm.  I’m sure you have enough sense not to scald yourself. In your case you might want to have two towels going.  Do this for 10 to 15 minutes twice a day.  This will be hotter and wetter than a rice sock, and it improves the circulation to flush that last yuck color out of a bruise. Jo

Response:

Ya know, I think the MTX is finally working.  My hip feels better than so, AMAZING!!!!.   I mean, my hip feels great.  This is wonderful.  I’m not limping.  At least, I don’t think I am. The goddamm problem is, I just broke my rib a few days ago.  I have bruises from my ankle to my shoulder from the fall.  Now, I’m walking with a somewhat bent over, lopsided gait to avoid the severe rib pain.   God forbid I should be without pain.   I feel like I’m cursed…… — Di dabell at optonline dot net "When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world"  John Muir  

Question:

> Thanks for replying Bill, but you really didn’t address anything in my question. > Anyone else care to take a crack at this?  Thanks.

Although you’ve gotten some good answers, I’ll add only this: Not cheap.  Don’t be surprised at estimates of $2000 or more.   Much of the cost is likely to be caused by local electrical code requirements for mandatory upgrades in other parts of your electical system once you commence this level of upgrade.  A large part of the cost is that it’s simply going to take a significant amount of labor, and skilled labor isn’t cheap (not for something that can have so many pitfalls as electrical service). — Kirk Experience is the best teacher…      But her pop quizzes can be mighty tough.

Response:

Kirk, Thanks very much. That was exactly what I was looking for, a rough figure. In fact, I did get three estimates (since none seemed to be had here) and all were pretty close. I took one at $1950. This actually seemed less than what I was anticipating, so I’m a happy camper and I’m sure the meter reader will be, too, since they won’t have to navigate fences and pets on the way to the back of my house anymore… :^) – Casey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for replying Bill, but you really didn’t address anything in my question. > Anyone else care to take a crack at this?  Thanks. > Although you’ve gotten some good answers, I’ll add only this: > Not cheap.  Don’t be surprised at estimates of $2000 or more.   > Much of the cost is likely to be caused by local electrical code > requirements for mandatory upgrades in other parts of your electical > system once you commence this level of upgrade.  A large part of the > cost is that it’s simply going to take a significant amount of labor, > and skilled labor isn’t cheap (not for something that can have so many > pitfalls as electrical service).

Response:

Since you are looking for a price quote here, I don’t think you will get one.  I think Bill’s reply, and his advice, is the best you will get.  Basically, get several estimates locally. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Thanks for replying Bill, but you really didn’t address anything in my question. > Anyone else care to take a crack at this?  Thanks.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any electricians out there who would hazard a guess as to the cost of > moving the main electrical panel in a ranch house? Currently (god > knows why) our main panel and meter are located in a small "closet" in > our kitchen. This means 1) there is not sufficient safety perimeter > around the panel making a possible remodel in the kitchen > problematical and 2) the meter points to the back yard, making it > difficult for the meter reader. I don’t know why this was done since > the garage (a logical location) is practically next to the service > pole. > I could solve 1) above by moving the meter about 3 feet along the same > wall, but not 2). To do "the right thing" I really should have the > meter and panel moved to the garage (about 30′ from present location). > My question is, what are rough estimates for undertaking such a move > to the garage wall (say, nearest $1K)? What would I be biting off > here? Do all the wires have to be pulled and re-routed? Could the > present panel be replaced by a junction box and new wires just routed > from there to the new panel? > thanks in advance for answers and advice. > – Casey

dont know the area you are located in, but in my area the power company removed all the meters from customers inside locations(mostly kitchens) and placed them on the sides of the houses, this was like maybe 20 years ago.  the only place that i can think of in the city where they have most of the electric meter inside the property is in the New Orleans French Quarter, but even these meter are in walkin stairways, not in the customers apt.  try to call your utility company and see if they plan on relocating the customers meters before you go to the trouble of doing it, they could probably do it alot cheaper if most of the people do it at the same time.

Response:

Any electricians out there who would hazard a guess as to the cost of moving the main electrical panel in a ranch house? Currently (god knows why) our main panel and meter are located in a small "closet" in our kitchen. This means 1) there is not sufficient safety perimeter around the panel making a possible remodel in the kitchen problematical and 2) the meter points to the back yard, making it difficult for the meter reader. I don’t know why this was done since the garage (a logical location) is practically next to the service pole. I could solve 1) above by moving the meter about 3 feet along the same wall, but not 2). To do "the right thing" I really should have the meter and panel moved to the garage (about 30′ from present location). My question is, what are rough estimates for undertaking such a move to the garage wall (say, nearest $1K)? What would I be biting off here? Do all the wires have to be pulled and re-routed? Could the present panel be replaced by a junction box and new wires just routed from there to the new panel? thanks in advance for answers and advice. – Casey

Response:

I would get several estimates. Too many variables to even guess. Also if remodeling your kitchen, you may want a new larger panel with more amperage and a larger service main (more amperage). It may not be that much more to upgrade while doing this work. New kitchens have 20 amp outlets and separate individual circuits for appliances including the microwave. A new kitchen can have 5 or even 8 separate circuits each on their own breaker. Old kitchens may have only one or two circuits. Note that I purchased a 40 slot breaker panel for under $200. I can’t imagine ever running out of space for new circuits with that monster! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Any electricians out there who would hazard a guess as to the cost of > moving the main electrical panel in a ranch house? Currently (god > knows why) our main panel and meter are located in a small "closet" in > our kitchen. This means 1) there is not sufficient safety perimeter > around the panel making a possible remodel in the kitchen > problematical and 2) the meter points to the back yard, making it > difficult for the meter reader. I don’t know why this was done since > the garage (a logical location) is practically next to the service > pole. > I could solve 1) above by moving the meter about 3 feet along the same > wall, but not 2). To do "the right thing" I really should have the > meter and panel moved to the garage (about 30′ from present location). > My question is, what are rough estimates for undertaking such a move > to the garage wall (say, nearest $1K)? What would I be biting off > here? Do all the wires have to be pulled and re-routed? Could the > present panel be replaced by a junction box and new wires just routed > from there to the new panel? > thanks in advance for answers and advice. > – Casey

Response:

Thanks for replying Bill, but you really didn’t address anything in my question. Anyone else care to take a crack at this?  Thanks. – Casey – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I would get several estimates. Too many variables to even guess. Also if > remodeling your kitchen, you may want a new larger panel with more amperage > and a larger service main (more amperage). It may not be that much more to > upgrade while doing this work. > New kitchens have 20 amp outlets and separate individual circuits for > appliances including the microwave. A new kitchen can have 5 or even 8 > separate circuits each on their own breaker. Old kitchens may have only one > or two circuits. Note that I purchased a 40 slot breaker panel for under > $200. I can’t imagine ever running out of space for new circuits with that > monster! > Any electricians out there who would hazard a guess as to the cost of > moving the main electrical panel in a ranch house? Currently (god > knows why) our main panel and meter are located in a small "closet" in > our kitchen. This means 1) there is not sufficient safety perimeter > around the panel making a possible remodel in the kitchen > problematical and 2) the meter points to the back yard, making it > difficult for the meter reader. I don’t know why this was done since > the garage (a logical location) is practically next to the service > pole. > I could solve 1) above by moving the meter about 3 feet along the same > wall, but not 2). To do "the right thing" I really should have the > meter and panel moved to the garage (about 30′ from present location). > My question is, what are rough estimates for undertaking such a move > to the garage wall (say, nearest $1K)? What would I be biting off > here? Do all the wires have to be pulled and re-routed? Could the > present panel be replaced by a junction box and new wires just routed > from there to the new panel? > thanks in advance for answers and advice. > – Casey

Response:

Electricians charge different amounts in different areas. There is circuit wiring to your breaker panel and a main wire. The main wire can be very expensive per foot. The cost of this wire alone can depend on where your new panel is located and how that wire will need to be routed to get there. Note that there are places where electric panels can’t be located anymore like in a closet. So an electrician really needs to go to your home and discuss where the best place would be to locate the new panel. Then when that is decided, he can give you an estimate based on how much wire, materials, and labor will be needed. Routing the wires to the new panel can depend on the construction of your home between the old location and the new location. But even though the new location may be 15 ft. away, each wire might need to travel 45 ft. to get there. This could be easy if all wires go up to the attic and the attic is easily accessible, or it could be a lot of work if no one can get into the attic and/or the wires currently go sideways in the walls and not up to the attic. A lot of sheetrock may need to be removed/replaced/patched to do the work or very little may need to be removed. So you see there are a lot of variables in the cost to do this. You also might try alt.home.repair  Maybe someone there can give you a high low price range, but I would get several estimates from electricians in your area. They would be able to suggest the best location for the new panel, then you could say "no not there", then they could suggest the next best location, etc. (Price goes higher with each further away location…) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Thanks for replying Bill, but you really didn’t address anything in my question. > Anyone else care to take a crack at this?  Thanks. > – Casey

Response:

Question:

Larry;     I’ve changed the Susan to Patty and passed this one on. Let me know if I owe Susan anything for copyright infringment. cooly PS – were off to FIL’s place in Estes Park for a week of relaxation by the stream. We could always use a bartender.

Response:

Hey you two are so funny. Watch Martha everyday…perfect perfect You are so so funny Keep this stuff coming Laughter is a good medicine Love God Bless you Susan and Larry

Response:

Thanks for the laughs, Larry. Cindy R.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Martha’s way: (Numbered)  Susan’s Way Response (*) > <snip>

Response:

LOLOL Larry! Your Susan is a gal after my own heart LOL.                                             Be well,  Patty :) *~A friend is someone who reaches out for your hand, and touches your heart.~*

Response:

Martha’s way: (Numbered)  Susan’s Way Response (*) 1. Stuff a miniature marshmallow in the bottom of  a sugar cone to prevent ice cream drips. * My way:  Just suck the ice cream out of the bottom of the cone, for God’s sake, you are probably laying on the couch with your feet up eating it anyway. You know we don’t  have anything better to do.  2. Use a meat baster to "squeeze" your pancake  batter onto the hot griddle and you’ll get perfectly  shaped pancakes every time.  * My way: Buy the precooked kind you nuke in the microwave for 30 seconds. The hard part is getting them out of the plastic bag without the steam burning your fingers. 3. To keep potatoes from budding, place an apple in the bag with the potatoes.  * My way: Buy Hungry Jack mashed potato mix and keep it in the pantry for up to a year.  4. To prevent egg shells from cracking, add a  pinch of salt to the water before hard boiling.  * My way: Who cares if they crack, aren’t you going to take the shells off anyway?  5. To get the most juice out of fresh lemons, bring them to room temperature and roll them under your palm against the kitchen counter before squeezing.  * My way: Sleep with the lemons in between the mattress and box spring.  6. To easily remove burnt on food from your skillet, simply add a drop or two of dish soap and enough water to cover bottom of pan, and bring to a boil on stovetop.  * My way: Eat out every night and avoid cooking.  7. Spray your Tupperware with nonstick cooking spray before pouring in tomato based sauces  and there won’t be any stains. * My way: Feed your garbage disposal and there won’t be any leftovers.  8. When a cake recipe calls for flouring the baking pan, use a bit of the dry cake mix instead and there won’t be any white  mess on the outside of the cake.  * My way: Buy the cake mixes that come in the pan ready to bake.  9. If you accidentally over salt a dish while it’s still cooking, drop in a peeled potato and it will absorb the excess salt for an instant "fix it upper". * My way: If I over salt a dish while your are cooking, that’s too darn bad. My motto:  I made it and you will eat it and I  don’t care how bad it tastes.  10. Wrap celery in aluminum foil when putting in the refrigerator and it will keep for weeks.  * My way:  Celery?  Never heard of the stuff. 11. Brush some beaten egg white over pie crust before baking to yield a beautiful glossy finish.  * My way: The Mrs. Smith frozen pie directions do not include brushing egg whites over the crust, so I just won’t do it. 12. Place a slice of apple in hardened brown sugar  to soften it. * My Way:  Brown sugar is supposed to be "soft"?  13. When boiling corn on the cob, add a pinch of sugar to help bring out the corn’s natural sweetness. * My Way: The only kind of corn I buy comes in a can. 14. To determine whether an egg is fresh, immerse it in a pan of cool, salted water. If it sinks, it is fresh, but if  it  rises to the surface, throw it away. * My way: Eat, cook, or use the egg anyway. If you  feel bad later, you will know it wasn’t fresh.  15. Cure for headaches: Take a lime, cut it in half and rub it on your forehead. The throbbing will  go  away.  * My way:  Martha, dear, the only reason this works for you is because you can’t rub a lime on your forehead without getting lime juice in your eye, and then the problem isn’t the headache anymore, it is the fact that you are now blind. 16. Don’t throw out all that leftover wine, freeze into ice cubes for future use in casseroles and  sauces.  * My way:  Who has left over wine? Larry never lets that happen in  this house!!  17. If you have a problem opening jars: Try using latex dishwashing gloves. They give a non slip grip that makes opening jars easy.  * My way: Go ask the very cute neighbor to do it and you might get to see him in his underwear. 18. Potatoes will take food stains off your fingers. Just slice and rub raw potato on the stains and rinse with water. * My way:  Mashed potatoes will now be replacing the anti-bacterial soap in the handy dispenser next to my sink.  19. Now look what you can do with Alka Seltzer:  a.) Clean a toilet. Drop in Alka-Seltzer tablets, wait twenty minutes, brush and flush. The citric acid and effervescent action clean vitreous China.   b.) Clean a vase. To remove a stain from the bottom of a glass vase or cruet, fill with water and drop in two Alka-Seltzer tablets. c.) Polish jewelry. Drop two Alka-Seltzer tablets into a glass of water and immerse the jewelry for two  minutes.  d.) Clean a thermos bottle.  Fill the bottle with water, drop in four Alka-Seltzer tablets, and let soak for an hour (or longer, if necessary). * My way: Put your jewelry, vases, and thermos in the toilet. Add a bunch of Alka-Seltzer tabs, let them soak while you go shopping and you have solved a whole bunch of problems at once. Dinner anyone? — Be Well, Larry

Response:

Question:

We are remodeling our kitchen, refacing cabinets on one side and having cabinets built on the other site. We got a bid of about $11,000, which includes such things as materials and installation of all appliances. I know it’s hard to guess what something’s worth without seeing it, but does the bid sound reasonable, given that they’ll be building new cabinets as well as refacing existing ones? beeswing

Response:

>We are remodeling our kitchen, refacing cabinets on one side and having >cabinets built on the other site. We got a bid of about $11,000,

Absolutely impossible to tell.  For starters, none of us has seen your kitchen, so we don’t know how many cabinets are on each "side".   We don’t know what material & quality you have chosen.  Are counters involved, if so how many feet and what material, etc etc etc.  Some people’s kitchens cost $50k and others $5k.  Can’t tell from here on the info given. -v.

Response:

>We are remodeling our kitchen, refacing cabinets on one side and having >cabinets built on the other site. We got a bid of about $11,000, which >includes such things as materials and installation of all appliances. I >know it’s hard to guess what something’s worth without seeing it, but >does the bid sound reasonable, given that they’ll be building new >cabinets as well as refacing existing ones?

For a "normal" (as opposed to "luxury") kitchen of an "average" size this could be a good bid. Figure on $10,000-15,000 for most kitchens. If you need new appliances, are using premium materials, and/or your kitchen is especially large then you can spend 4-5x as much. For some people $11,000 wouldn’t even begin to cover appliances let alone cabinets. Why don’t you get some other bids? That’s the only way to know for sure. Dimitri

Response:

>Absolutely impossible to tell.  For starters, none of us has seen your >kitchen, so we don’t know how many cabinets are on each "side".   We >don’t know what material & quality you have chosen.  Are counters >involved, if so how many feet and what material, etc etc etc.  Some >people’s kitchens cost $50k and others $5k.  Can’t tell from here on >the info given.

I wasn’t looking for a bid, just a ballpark figure of what an average sized kitchen might cost to remodel. I understood the limitations of what I was asking. Someone here was nice enough to give me some ballpark figures, which I appreciate. I don’t know our square footage. We just put the order in for the knobs and drawer pulls: 20 openings and 7 drawers. But I doubt that helps much. beeswing

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> For a "normal" (as opposed to "luxury") kitchen of an "average" size this > could be a good bid. Figure on $10,000-15,000 for most kitchens. If you > need new appliances, are using premium materials, and/or your kitchen is > especially large then you can spend 4-5x as much. For some people $11,000 > wouldn’t even begin to cover appliances let alone cabinets. Why don’t you get > some other bids? That’s the only way to know for sure.

I’m sorry if this appears twice…I think I responded by email when I wanted to post. I appreciate the ballpark figures; that’s really all I needed. Counter to common wisdom, we only got the one bid. We found the kitchen remodel folks at the Home Show. Their sample kitchen was exactly what I had wanted. We had talked to many vendors, and these folks seemed to be by far the most professional and quality driven of the lot. We didn’t have any other folks come out and bid, because I was basically sure what I wanted. The only downside is I have nothing to compare pricewise. By the way, what we are doing is refacing cabinets on one side of our average-sized kitchen, and replacing the cabinets on the other side entirely. Door fronts will be solid maple. We’ll be buying a new range, built-in microwave, and dishwasher — they aren’t included in the cost, but installing them is. The price does include replacing the countertop with new laminate. Thanks for your input. beeswing

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[snip!] >By the way, what we are doing is refacing cabinets on one side of our >average-sized kitchen, and replacing the cabinets on the other side >entirely. Door fronts will be solid maple. We’ll be buying a new range, >built-in microwave, and dishwasher — they aren’t included in the cost, >but installing them is. The price does include replacing the countertop >with new laminate. >Thanks for your input.

In case anyone wonders, that was a figure I pulled from a home remodeling web site. It’s about how much the average kitchen remodeling costs nationwide. Dimitri

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