Question:

oh and can you remove me as well many thanks  that two customers youve lost in as many hrs

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear folks at mykoi.com: >   Please do not use my address for spam. You took it off this newsgroup > (I am sure I am not the only one). Because of this I will not be going to > your site. In fact, if you want,  I could forward all my spam to you and you > would see why I hate getting spammed. > This weeks specials: > Herbal viagra. > Dream vacations. > One million email addresses (you might want that one). > Save up to 70% on life insurance. > Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. > I can set up my email program to auto forward any of these to you. > Just let me know if I can help. > Barry~

Response:

>> This weeks specials: > Herbal viagra. > Dream vacations. > One million email addresses (you might want that one). > Save up to 70% on life insurance. > Learn how to drop your mortgage rates.

You can forward me the two on herbal viagra and dream vacations Barry and maybe I’ll end up with the vacation of a lifetime!!!  : )        })i({  Cindy  })i({   If you think the grass is  greener on the other side,         get fertilizer!!!               : )     Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless

Response:

>>> This weeks specials: >> Herbal viagra. >> Dream vacations. >> One million email addresses (you might want that one). >> Save up to 70% on life insurance. >> Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. >You can forward me the two on herbal viagra and dream vacations Barry and maybe >I’ll end up with the vacation of a lifetime!!!  : )

Watch out now. This is a fish group  <g> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       })i({  Cindy  })i({ >  If you think the grass is > greener on the other side, >        get fertilizer!!! >              : ) >    Live, Love, Laugh!!! >Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless

Response:

Dear folks at mykoi.com:   Please do not use my address for spam. You took it off this newsgroup (I am sure I am not the only one). Because of this I will not be going to your site. In fact, if you want,  I could forward all my spam to you and you would see why I hate getting spammed. This weeks specials: Herbal viagra. Dream vacations. One million email addresses (you might want that one). Save up to 70% on life insurance. Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. I can set up my email program to auto forward any of these to you. Just let me know if I can help. Barry~

Response:

oh and can you remove me as well many thanks  that two customers youve lost in as many hrs

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dear folks at mykoi.com: >   Please do not use my address for spam. You took it off this newsgroup > (I am sure I am not the only one). Because of this I will not be going to > your site. In fact, if you want,  I could forward all my spam to you and you > would see why I hate getting spammed. > This weeks specials: > Herbal viagra. > Dream vacations. > One million email addresses (you might want that one). > Save up to 70% on life insurance. > Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. > I can set up my email program to auto forward any of these to you. > Just let me know if I can help. > Barry~

Response:

>> This weeks specials: > Herbal viagra. > Dream vacations. > One million email addresses (you might want that one). > Save up to 70% on life insurance. > Learn how to drop your mortgage rates.

You can forward me the two on herbal viagra and dream vacations Barry and maybe I’ll end up with the vacation of a lifetime!!!  : )        })i({  Cindy  })i({   If you think the grass is  greener on the other side,         get fertilizer!!!               : )     Live, Love, Laugh!!! Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless

Response:

>>> This weeks specials: >> Herbal viagra. >> Dream vacations. >> One million email addresses (you might want that one). >> Save up to 70% on life insurance. >> Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. >You can forward me the two on herbal viagra and dream vacations Barry and maybe >I’ll end up with the vacation of a lifetime!!!  : )

Watch out now. This is a fish group  <g> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->       })i({  Cindy  })i({ >  If you think the grass is > greener on the other side, >        get fertilizer!!! >              : ) >    Live, Love, Laugh!!! >Don’t lose sight of lifes simple treasures, they cost nothing yet are priceless

Response:

Dear folks at mykoi.com:   Please do not use my address for spam. You took it off this newsgroup (I am sure I am not the only one). Because of this I will not be going to your site. In fact, if you want,  I could forward all my spam to you and you would see why I hate getting spammed. This weeks specials: Herbal viagra. Dream vacations. One million email addresses (you might want that one). Save up to 70% on life insurance. Learn how to drop your mortgage rates. I can set up my email program to auto forward any of these to you. Just let me know if I can help. Barry~

Response:

Question:

A simple question that probably has a complex answer: The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also drop 0.5%? — Interactive Silicon – http://www.interactivesi.com When replying to a mailing-list message, please direct the reply to the mailing list only. Don’t send another copy to me.

Response:

> A simple question that probably has a complex answer: > The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. > How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also > drop 0.5%?

The complex answer.  It depends on the market you are buying into.  If housing is tight, and everything is selling within 90 days or so, don’t expect to see much of a drop in interest.  On the other hand, if it’s an area where home sales are already slow, and a lot of people are being fired, builders and resale’s alike, may start giving points to discount the rate even more than the .05%.  They may even be cutting the selling prices.  You need to determine if the housing prices are going up, or down, in your area, and let that be what determines whether you wait, or buy now. Tom J Tom J

Response:

> The complex answer.  It depends on the market you are buying into.

Thanks for your prompt reply. I’m already having a house built, and it’ll be done next month.  I need to get my financing in order before then, obviously.  The selling price of the house has already been determined, so I just need to pick a lender.   Let me phrase my question another way.  Let’s say that yesterday, the rate from a particular lender was 7%.  With the 0.5% drop, today he should be able to charge me only 6.5% for the same loan.  Would it be unreasonable for me to expect him to lower his rate to 6.5% before the end of the year? — Interactive Silicon – http://www.interactivesi.com When replying to a mailing-list message, please direct the reply to the mailing list only. Don’t send another copy to me.

Response:

Mortgage interest are also tied to the Treasury Bond index, which does not follow the rate Mr. Greenspan is talking about anyway, so it’s a far more complex issue, which I don’t pretend to understand:) Mortgage rates didn’t drop with his last cut either, they’ve been steady around here in NJ around 7% for many months now. Lukas Louw – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The complex answer.  It depends on the market you are buying into. > Thanks for your prompt reply. > I’m already having a house built, and it’ll be done next month.  I need > to get my financing in order before then, obviously.  The selling price > of the house has already been determined, so I just need to pick a > lender. > Let me phrase my question another way.  Let’s say that yesterday, the > rate from a particular lender was 7%.  With the 0.5% drop, today he > should be able to charge me only 6.5% for the same loan.  Would it be > unreasonable for me to expect him to lower his rate to 6.5% before the > end of the year? > —

Response:

> Mortgage interest are also tied to the Treasury Bond index, which does not > follow the rate Mr. Greenspan is talking about anyway, so it’s a far more > complex issue, which I don’t pretend to understand:) Mortgage rates didn’t > drop with his last cut either, they’ve been steady around here in NJ around > 7% for many months now.

They have moved, but slowly, and less than the Fed’s discount rate moves, judging from Hudson City Savings Bank’s rates, some of which I have been logging since November.  Their current rates are at <http://scripts.hudsoncitysavings.com/mortgage.asp>. (Hudson City is one of the largest (perhaps THE largest) "regular bank" mortgage lenders in NJ, and they keep all loans for their own portfolio, which means that their programs may be more flexible/generous than a standard FreddieMac/FannieMae-compatable loan.  For instance, their non-jumbo loan amount goes up to $500,000.) The Fed’s discount rate cuts on Jan. 3 and Jan. 31 were each 0.5%. Hudson City updates their rates on Fridays, but not every Friday.  I may have missed an update or two, in which case a rate change might be shown with a later date than when it actually happened. Here are their rates for certain non-jumbo mortgages with zero points, at various effective dates (fixed-width font recommended): Eff.Date  20-Fixed 30-Fixed 10-ARM 11-03-00  7.75     7.875    7.625 11-17-00  7.75     7.875    7.625 12-08-00  7.625    7.75     7.5   [just after the Jan. 3 Fed cut] 12-22-00  7.5      7.5      7.375 [it is unusual for 20-F to match 30-F]     [might have missed an early Jan. update] 01-26-01  7.125    7.125    7.0   [just *before* the Jan. 31 Fed cut] 02-02-01  7.125    7.125    7.0   [just *after* the Fed cut... mortgage rates unchanged!] 02-16-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 02-23-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 03-02-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 03-16-01  7.0      7.125    7.0   [current, until Friday at least] I think the difference between "short-term" rates (discount rate) and "long-term" rates (fixed-rate mortgage) is a very significant factor, and I wouldn’t expect a one-for-one move, even allowing for a delay. — Jack Gavin

Response:

If you think rates are coming down and Mr. Greenspan will make additional cuts in the Federal Funds rate in the future then an adjustable rate mortage may be your best choice.  Then later when you feel rates have bottomed you can switch to a fixed rate mortage. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->A simple question that probably has a complex answer: >The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. >How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also >drop 0.5%? >– >Interactive Silicon – http://www.interactivesi.com >When replying to a mailing-list message, please direct the reply to the >mailing list only. >Don’t send another copy to me.

Response:

[Corrected my comments in the table I provided]

> Mortgage interest are also tied to the Treasury Bond index, which does not > follow the rate Mr. Greenspan is talking about anyway, so it’s a far more > complex issue, which I don’t pretend to understand:) Mortgage rates didn’t > drop with his last cut either, they’ve been steady around here in NJ around > 7% for many months now.

They have moved, but slowly, and less than the Fed’s discount rate moves, judging from Hudson City Savings Bank’s rates, some of which I have been logging since November.  Their current rates are at <http://scripts.hudsoncitysavings.com/mortgage.asp>. (Hudson City is one of the largest (perhaps THE largest) "regular bank" mortgage lenders in NJ, and they keep all loans for their own portfolio, which means that their programs may be more flexible/generous than a standard FreddieMac/FannieMae-compatable loan.  For instance, their non-jumbo loan amount goes up to $500,000.) The Fed’s discount rate cuts on Jan. 3 and Jan. 31 were each 0.5%. Hudson City updates their rates on Fridays, but not every Friday.  I may have missed an update or two, in which case a rate change might be shown with a later date than when it actually happened. Here are their rates for certain non-jumbo mortgages with zero points, at various effective dates (fixed-width font recommended): Eff.Date  20-Fixed 30-Fixed 10-ARM 11-03-00  7.75     7.875    7.625 11-17-00  7.75     7.875    7.625 12-08-00  7.625    7.75     7.5   [(removed incorrect comment)] 12-22-00  7.5      7.5      7.375 [it is unusual for 20-F to match 30-F]     [might have missed an early Jan. update] 01-26-01  7.125    7.125    7.0   [just *before* the Jan. 31 Fed cut] 02-02-01  7.125    7.125    7.0   [just *after* the Fed cut... mortgage rates unchanged!] 02-16-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 02-23-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 03-02-01  7.0      7.125    7.0 03-16-01  7.0      7.125    7.0   [current, until Friday at least] I think the difference between "short-term" rates (discount rate) and "long-term" rates (fixed-rate mortgage) is a very significant factor, and I wouldn’t expect a one-for-one move, even allowing for a delay. — Jack Gavin

Response:

My wife and I met with a lender last night.  He said that rates are already down because this cut had been expected.  Current rates are around 6.9% I believe. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >If you think rates are coming down and Mr. Greenspan will make additional cuts >in the Federal Funds rate in the future then an adjustable rate mortage may be >your best choice.  Then later when you feel rates have bottomed you can switch >to a fixed rate mortage. >A simple question that probably has a complex answer: >The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. >How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also >drop 0.5%? >– >Interactive Silicon – http://www.interactivesi.com >When replying to a mailing-list message, please direct the reply to the >mailing list only. >Don’t send another copy to me.

 —–  Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the Web  —–   http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+ groups    NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam.  If this or other posts

Response:

>A simple question that probably has a complex answer: >The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. >How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also >drop 0.5%? >–

They aren’t tied to the Fed. rate.  They’re tied to the bond rates. Trip

Response:

Timur Tabi: >The Federal Reserve cut their rate to 5% today.  That’s a 0.5% drop. >How long will I need to wait until mortgage rates for new homes also >drop 0.5%?

Seems no one here know much, but doesn’t stop them. Yes, we can expect the dropping prime to affect mortgage rates. But, that’s been anticipated, so rates may have already dropped. See the front page of todays New York Times for more informed speculation. Eric Salathe

Response:

>The complex answer.  It depends on the market you are buying into.  If >housing is tight, and everything is selling within 90 days or so, don’t >expect to see much of a drop in interest.  

Tom J, I believe you are quite wrong and perhaps misunderstood something along the line.  Mortgage rates are pretty much a national market due to the prevelance of the secondary market for mortgage backed securities (with minor individual variation depending on how much or little spread particular local banks are willing to take on the loans they sell). What you are talking about is SALES PRICE not mortgage rates. -v.

Response:

Question:

> What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

I would think that the removal of interest deductions on anything but a mortgage may have a bearing on that. I don’t think that it necessarily makes sense, but I bet there are those who could make an argument for it depending on the amount financed and the interest being paid on non-deductible accounts. Gary

Response:

> well….figure $200,000 for a reasonable house. > How many people have $40,000 to plunk down at closing….especially after > you factor in furniture, other costs, etc.

My SIL said two young kids purchased one of the condos – not even a house – in her area for around $750,000 cash. Other than that I don’t know any other people with that kind of down payment. Unless you’re the Wall Street type, CEO or a dot.com guy saving for a house doesn’t work out here where the property appreciation far outstrips any kind of savings. Time to buy is now or kiss it good bye (in our area at lease) – PMI or no PMI.

Response:

Considering the average price of  a home in my area is $200K thats $40k down payment. Lots of money to be saving. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A guy in our office is a former mortgage broker.  Just out of curiosity > one day, I asked him what, in his experience, was the ratio of people > who put down a 20% down payment for a house vs. folks who are forced to > pay private mortgage insurance.  Before he gave me his answer he asked, > "What do _you_ think the ratio is?"  I figured maybe 80% of homebuyers > saved up 20%.  (After all, homebuyers are supposed to be mature, > responsible adults, right?) > He laughed and said it was just the reverse—that most homebuyers end > up paying PMI.  After reeling my jaw back up from the floor, I asked him > how that could be.  He said it was a combination of several factors; the > biggest in his opinion was the tendency to buy too much house for a > family’s actual needs, and the phenomenon of "kiddies" (20-somethings) > coming onto the house-buying scene. > He did stress that his opinions were based only on what he had seen in > his 6-7 years in the business; he didn’t know what the ratio would be in > other parts of the country. (We’re in the Great Lakes region.) > What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

Before you buy.

Response:

>He laughed and said it was just the reverse—that most homebuyers end >up paying PMI.  After reeling my jaw back up from the floor, I asked him

I knew from reading articles in the news that down payments are pretty small these days; what surprises me is that apparently most people don’t do the second mortgage option.  We spoke to two mortgage brokers, both of whom proposed a 10% down payment with a second, shorter mortgage for the second 10%, to avoid the PMI.  They did the numbers and it did come out to be cheaper than paying the PMI.  But I almost never see this mentioned as an option. As it turned out, we were able to do 20%, but I certainly would have done the 10/10 mortgage otherwise. — "I have always wished that my computer would be as easy to use as my telephone.  My wish has come true.  I no longer know how to use my telephone." – Bjarne Stroustrup, inventor of the C++ programming language

Response:

Around here one can purchase a decent (not huge, but safe and clean in a good neighborhood) house for about $75,000.  People moving into such houses are often putting 5% or less down.  I think it’s pretty common for everyone to spend at the upper limits of affordability, and that usually means putting 10% or less down in most cases. -Derek in Minnesota — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University        Dept. of History  "Let me go on record as stating that Mountain Dew, although a refreshing   and enjoyable beverage, is NOT A CONTRACEPTIVE."  -Ann Landers

Response:

  > Around here one can purchase a decent (not huge, but safe and clean in   > a   > good neighborhood) house for about $75,000.  People moving into such   > houses are often putting 5% or less down.  I think it’s pretty common   > for   > everyone to spend at the upper limits of affordability, and that   > usually   > means putting 10% or less down in most cases.   >   > -Derek in Minnesota Derek, when you say, "around here" are you talking about Minnesota or Indiana? (I _dream_ of a home for 75K, or even 100K). Bearclaw in Silicon Valley

Response:

> well….figure $200,000 for a reasonable house. > How many people have $40,000 to plunk down at closing….especially after > you factor in furniture, other costs, etc.

I know someone who couldn’t buy a car, because the dealership didn’t have enough of it and so he took the car money and used it as a down payment on a house.  No ceo, no dot.com person, just a average 20 something, and no he didn’t start with money.  Oh want to know how much the down payment was?  Check out the price for a new 2000 BMW M5.

Response:

You just described me Patrick. — E… OsiTech.Net computer support for small offices www.ositech.net

most – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> people can afford to buy a house if they only are required to put down > a minimum of 5%

Response:

>. . . .  As far as I can see, PMI is a heck of a >bargain.  Why WOULDN’T I have it?

I am so happy to finally see someone say that.  And I have nothing at all to do with the mortgage industry.  PMI lets people who do not have the equity that I do (after buying and selling many properties over 20+ years), buy a house.  And get all those tax advantages.  And the opportunity for appreciation.  (How do you think I got here… my tenants paid the monthly nut until the properties appreciated enough to make it worthwhile for me to sell.) PMI is essentially just a pre-figured institutionalized way to manage the risks of low equity loans.  Maybe people would feel better if instead of being quoted separately for PMI which makes it identifiable, they were just quoted a higher interest rate period based on how much down.  I can just see it, what a bargain, "lender pays the PMI!" The way I see it, if you have PMI, you are a beneficiary and not a victim.  PMI let you buy that house.  Want no PMI, either put more down or don’t buy. BTW, lots of folks have, say, $40k down.  They are just not first time buyers.  They do not necessarily have that $ in cash, it is in the equity in the house they’re already living in.  But, since they move up to a $350k house from their $200k house, no, they still won’t have 20% down thus PMI again. just MHO, -v. been there, done that, don’t have it now.

Response:

> To be fair, in the last decade most financial advisors generally > recommend not saving up for the house, to get into it as soon as > possible however possible. With single-digit interest rates, tax > breaks, and rising property values, your buying power may be > decreasing faster than you are saving. And that is assuming that if > you wait you will actually follow through on saving. I’ve known people > who were "saving up" for years, with little more than they started.

I second what toddh says here! Paying PMI is far from perfect, but being pushed out of the housing market entirely is even worse. And that is what’s happening to people who are diligently waiting to save up 20% down before getting into that first house. Just today, an economic report was released saying that the median price of a new home in the US (national aggregation) rose to $166K – up $6K from a MONTH earlier. (Just three years ago, housing prices would log that kind of gain in a YEAR, not a MONTH.) Just to offset the price hike, you would have had to save $6K last month from your discretionary after-tax income. Anyone who could save $6K in one month is very affluent indeed; whereas a middle-class family that bought a $160K house a month ago saw this much property appreciation before the even finished unpacking from the move! The family that bought with PMI had to pay a $75-$100 premium, but walked away $5,900 ahead ($6K equity – $100 premium). I’m assuming that the house payment is roughly comparable to a rent payment for the same place. Even at 8.25% rates, the mortgage payment is probably LESS (which means more gains for owning the home). Not to mention that ~28% of that interest comes out of income taxes this family would owe. It really is not feasible for a first-time home buyer to wait and save up 20% these days. Every time I turn my back, all the builders have gone back and painted over their signs with new, higher prices. Resale prices in places I’ve lived recently (Denver and Austin) are even higher yet. (Yes, people pay MORE for used homes than for new ones in both cities.) The net effect is that housing prices are going up by about 20% per year in many US metropolitan areas. Wait a year, and you’ll be buying a starter home instead of a move-up home. Wait another year, and you’ll be buying a condo instead of a starter home. Wait another, and you won’t own a home at all… . Colin Dunn

Response:

Colin what is your opinion on why this happens? Thanks. — E… OsiTech.Net computer support for small offices www.ositech.net

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> (Yes, people pay MORE for used homes than for new ones in both > cities.)

Response:

[snip!] >The net effect is that housing prices are going up by about 20% per >year in many US metropolitan areas. Wait a year, and you’ll be buying >a starter home instead of a move-up home. Wait another year, and you’ll >be buying a condo instead of a starter home. Wait another, and you >won’t own a home at all…

Eh, I don’t think so. Housing is cyclical and it certainly can move in a direction other than upward over relatively short periods of time. To say that in three years someone who is currently renting won’t be able to buy a home is just spreading fear, uncertainty, and doubt. The market can’t do 20% per year for very many years. Even here in California where real estate has traditionally done well and where the population is increasing much faster than the national average we have seen periods where the housing market has been depressed. It was only 5 years ago that many people were upside down on mortgages obtained during our last housing boom. Historically, real estate has advanced in price at about the rate of inflation. I don’t see any reason why that won’t continue to be the case. In fact, as the boomers start to retire I think that the housing markets in many areas may take an unexpected hit. Sales of condominiums and vacation homes may be the exceptions. Dimitri

Response:

I’m unfamiliar with this PMI thing.  Is that just for people buying their first houses or does it apply to all home buyers?   We should have close to 20% to put down when we buy, but maybe not exactly.  If we don’t, will we have to get involved in the PMI, even if we are in the process of selling our home that is paid off?  Anybody know? Tina

Response:

Sometimes, money is better left where it is- for those that can afford 20%. 401 K plans must be paid back. And in many cases, pay back is post tax. 10% int rate you pay to yourself, but you must pay it back in post tax income. Then there is savings that arent in liquid form sitting in a bank. Say- stocks. If the difference is 15,000- between say putting 5% down and 20% down on a 100,000 house, the PMI in such an instance will be approx $60 per month. or $720 per year. If one were to sell their stocks, first, they’d most likely have to pay a capital gains- so we’ll say to acquire 15K- they’d need to sell 25K in stock. The question is- will your 25K be earning you more than $720 per year staying where it is- in the market? The average market time to double is 7 yrs. (obviously there are exceptions- high risk etc) Needless to say- some people also take all this into consideration. And sometimes, it makes more sense to pay PMI and leave one’s investments intact- It of course depends upon one’s particular situation, but PMI or low down payments do not necc. equal people buying too much house with too little cash. Mare

Response:

>the PMI cost in the interest savings.  Finally, we are paying off extra >principal every month and our PMI payment will be eliminated in less than >two years.

That is exactly what we did.  We did not want to have an empty bank account after buying the house, so we went with PMI & just paid a bit extra.  After 2 years, we paid a bit more, plus the property value itself increased.  Therefore, we had PMI covered.  In our area, homes went up about 30-40,000 $  on a home originally purchased at 120,000, even if you do not add to the principle, the 20% mark is hit without a problem, plus, I got a 2car garage with my house, not too many appartments have that, and that is well worth the cost of PMI.

Response:

>What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

It depends on the location, the housing values, and the average salaries for the area.  If the median-priced home is $600,000 (Silicon Valley), it’s going ot be pretty difficult to come up with an initial $120,000 which would be more than the full cost for a median-priced house in southwestern Ohio, for instance. — Kath

Response:

>>What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe? >It depends on the location, the housing values, and the average salaries >for the area.  If the median-priced home is $600,000 (Silicon Valley), it’s >going ot be pretty difficult to come up with an initial $120,000 which >would be more than the full cost for a median-priced house in southwestern >Ohio, for instance.

If you can afford a $600,000 home then you should be able to come up with $120,000 (or close to it). It’s that simple. Remember that if houses are appreciating like they have been in Silicon Valley then plenty of people who bought $250,000 homes a decade ago suddenly have no problem raising $120,000 out of the equity of the sale of their current home. Dimitri

Response:

>> small these days; what surprises me is that apparently most people > don’t do the second mortgage option.  We spoke to two mortgage > brokers, both of whom proposed a 10% down payment with a second, > shorter mortgage for the second 10%, to avoid the PMI.  They did the > numbers and it did come out to be cheaper than paying the PMI.  But I > As it turned out, we were able to do 20%, but I certainly would have > done the 10/10 mortgage otherwise.

Same here.  It was spring 1998, and doing the second mortgage was cheaper than PMI before taking the tax deduction into account. >I did a 80-10-10 last year, no PMI and more interest deduction, though >I’m paying off the 10% second mortgage which is a 15 year loan at a 6

Exactly.  That way you keep more of your money.  Buying insurance of any kind is a gamble, and you can bet the odds are NOT in your favor. sdb — More guns means less crime.  ISBN:0-226-49363-6  *** Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be sylvan and host is cyberhighway.net. Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >  > Around here one can purchase a decent (not huge, but safe and clean in >  > a >  > good neighborhood) house for about $75,000.  People moving into such >  > houses are often putting 5% or less down.  I think it’s pretty common >  > for >  > everyone to spend at the upper limits of affordability, and that >  > usually >  > means putting 10% or less down in most cases. >  > -Derek in Minnesota >Derek, when you say, "around here" are you talking about Minnesota or >Indiana? (I _dream_ of a home for 75K, or even 100K).

Sorry, I meant Minnesota.  And only outside the Twin Cities metro area and ‘burbs.  I live in St. Cloud, and whiule the average sale price of a new home here is about $129K, as I mentioned there are many older homes in the <$80,000 range that are perfectly fine.  If you can live farther out (say in a small town) one can have a farm house and 50+ acres of mixed pasture/woodland for about $100K. Indiana’s more expensive because there are more people and they are spread around more evenly, rather than being concentrated in one big metroplex as Minnesota’s are. -Derek — Derek R. Larson           Indiana University        Dept. of History  "Let me go on record as stating that Mountain Dew, although a refreshing   and enjoyable beverage, is NOT A CONTRACEPTIVE."  -Ann Landers

Response:

A guy in our office is a former mortgage broker.  Just out of curiosity one day, I asked him what, in his experience, was the ratio of people who put down a 20% down payment for a house vs. folks who are forced to pay private mortgage insurance.  Before he gave me his answer he asked, "What do _you_ think the ratio is?"  I figured maybe 80% of homebuyers saved up 20%.  (After all, homebuyers are supposed to be mature, responsible adults, right?) He laughed and said it was just the reverse—that most homebuyers end up paying PMI.  After reeling my jaw back up from the floor, I asked him how that could be.  He said it was a combination of several factors; the biggest in his opinion was the tendency to buy too much house for a family’s actual needs, and the phenomenon of "kiddies" (20-somethings) coming onto the house-buying scene. He did stress that his opinions were based only on what he had seen in his 6-7 years in the business; he didn’t know what the ratio would be in other parts of the country. (We’re in the Great Lakes region.) What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

Response:

well….figure $200,000 for a reasonable house. How many people have $40,000 to plunk down at closing….especially after you factor in furniture, other costs, etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A guy in our office is a former mortgage broker.  Just out of curiosity > one day, I asked him what, in his experience, was the ratio of people > who put down a 20% down payment for a house vs. folks who are forced to > pay private mortgage insurance.  Before he gave me his answer he asked, > "What do _you_ think the ratio is?"  I figured maybe 80% of homebuyers > saved up 20%.  (After all, homebuyers are supposed to be mature, > responsible adults, right?) > He laughed and said it was just the reverse—that most homebuyers end > up paying PMI.  After reeling my jaw back up from the floor, I asked him > how that could be.  He said it was a combination of several factors; the > biggest in his opinion was the tendency to buy too much house for a > family’s actual needs, and the phenomenon of "kiddies" (20-somethings) > coming onto the house-buying scene. > He did stress that his opinions were based only on what he had seen in > his 6-7 years in the business; he didn’t know what the ratio would be in > other parts of the country. (We’re in the Great Lakes region.) > What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

Response:

>x-no-archive: yes >A guy in our office is a former mortgage broker.  Just out of curiosity >one day, I asked him what, in his experience, was the ratio of people >who put down a 20% down payment for a house vs. folks who are forced to >pay private mortgage insurance.  Before he gave me his answer he asked, >"What do _you_ think the ratio is?"  I figured maybe 80% of homebuyers >saved up 20%.  (After all, homebuyers are supposed to be mature, >responsible adults, right?)

<snip> >To be fair, in the last decade most financial advisors generally >recommend not saving up for the house, to get into it as soon as >possible however possible. With single-digit interest rates, tax >breaks, and rising property values, your buying power may be >decreasing faster than you are saving. And that is assuming that if >you wait you will actually follow through on saving. I’ve known people >who were "saving up" for years, with little more than they started.

Some people don’t follow through and some people have different circumstances. >Think of it this way. Even if you buy with nothing down and only $1 of >your $700 payment goes for principle, that’s $1 more than if you were >renting. I’ve known people who bought the house they were renting and >endud up with a monthly payment less than their previous rent.

Exactly.  Having to rent is a big liability.  When you live in an area where the rents, car insurance, etc. are astronomical, it takes a long time to save.  Another problem is that when the housing prices are high to start with and go up unmercifully, chasing "20% down" over a few years to avoid PMI is a fool’s folly. >Saving up for a bigger downpayment *can* be a good move, *if* you have >the discipline to sacrifice and really save, especially if you have a >low or rent-free current place to stay like with family.

I think a lot of first-time homebuyers who manage to buy a home early in life get help from families.  Once you get the first house, it seems to be easier to come up with 20% (because of the equity and appreciation). Sue(tm) Lead me not into temptation… I can find it myself! sue at interport net

Response:

> What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

I don’t think putting down 20% was ever "in" at least not for the last decade or two. Houses are expensive and despite your assumption that adults are responsible savers and all that, most people don’t have $20k (and that is just for a $100k house) to use as a down payment, or if they do, choice to downpay less in order to use some of that money or other things like furnature or repairs. You probably have read that home ownership is at its highest ever these last few years. Do you think that would have been true if everyone was putting down 20%? No, it is because if you are willing to pay PMI, most people can afford to buy a house if they only are required to put down a minimum of 5%. As far as affording a house, MANY people can afford the monthly payment to own a home, but it is the initial hurdle of coming up with the downpayment, closing costs, etc. that stops many people. So being able to get in with as little as 5% down makes getting into a first home a reality for many people. Hence, to me the 80% needing PMI sounds about right to me. — http://www.geocities.com/ptimlin/ Before you buy.

Response:

Well here was the theory that DH and I used when we put 5% down on our house two years ago, and now we have to pay $108. month in PMI. Given a $200,000 house in our area (Slightly more than we paid) we would have had to save about $32,000 more than we ultimately paid as a down payment.  EVEN IF we were able to pocket an extra $500 per month toward the downpayment, we would have been more than 5 years waiting to have enough down payment.  AND at the same time we would have continued paying almost $900 a month rent (for a 800 square foot two bedroom apartment), and inevitably that rent would have increased at least 5-10% each year.  No tax deducations to take.  So $900. per month for rent plus $500. savings toward a down payment = monthly cost of $1400.  For approximately the SAME amount of money per month, we have been in our home for over two years and been able to take that nice mortgage deduction which lowers the ultimate cost somewhat (better having the $ in MY pocket than uncle sams)  Additionally, we were able to buy at the point when mortgage rates were at their lowest in years (under 7% for a 30 year fixed) and now they are in the 8.25% or 8.5% range….Over the life of the mortgage we will MUCH more than make up for the PMI cost in the interest savings.  Finally, we are paying off extra principal every month and our PMI payment will be eliminated in less than two years. The math as I see  it after paying PMI for 5 years (more or less)  5 years PMI cost: $108 per month X 60 months $6480.  Benefits:  (tangible) 5 years of mortgage deductions, lower interest rates, built up equity in our home (intangible)  being able to live in 2200 square foot house vs. an 800 sq ft apartment, having a yard, etc.  As far as I can see, PMI is a heck of a bargain.  Why WOULDN’T I have it?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A guy in our office is a former mortgage broker.  Just out of curiosity > one day, I asked him what, in his experience, was the ratio of people > who put down a 20% down payment for a house vs. folks who are forced to > pay private mortgage insurance.  Before he gave me his answer he asked, > "What do _you_ think the ratio is?"  I figured maybe 80% of homebuyers > saved up 20%.  (After all, homebuyers are supposed to be mature, > responsible adults, right?) > He laughed and said it was just the reverse—that most homebuyers end > up paying PMI.  After reeling my jaw back up from the floor, I asked him > how that could be.  He said it was a combination of several factors; the > biggest in his opinion was the tendency to buy too much house for a > family’s actual needs, and the phenomenon of "kiddies" (20-somethings) > coming onto the house-buying scene. > He did stress that his opinions were based only on what he had seen in > his 6-7 years in the business; he didn’t know what the ratio would be in > other parts of the country. (We’re in the Great Lakes region.) > What do you think?  Is plunking down 20% becoming passe?

Response:

Question:

80-10-10s are fairly common as far as mortgages go, but you usually have to ask what a particular mortgage company’s policies are around this.  They typically work by putting down 10% (or more) on the house, borrowing 80% at whatever the going mortgage rates are, and then borrowing the remainder (10%) as a second mortgage at a higher rate.  They also do not necessarily have to be at the same mortgage company, but your chances of getting everything together and approved are better if they are with the same company.  Here are some things to consider: * Interest payments on the 80-10-10 (both loans) are tax deductible.  PMI is not. * If you are planning on staying in the house for more than (rule of thumb –not an absolute) 5 years, the PMI payments may work out better than the additional interest associated with an 80-10-10. * Typically if you do not put down 20% (either as a down or as an 80-10-10), your interest rates will be higher in general. * Don’t forget to factor in mortgage points if you want to buy down the interest rate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >AAA mortg. services (at least in MA) had a couple of these available.  The >guy I spoke with said Fannie Mae would be putting some rules in place  in >the near future to discourage this practice. >Some have suggested the earning 20-30% on your money in the stock market >is a better use than saving 7% or so by pre-paying your mortgage. >Chris >:> I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting >:> an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr >:> first at 7.25%. >: Is this something you can get directly from the mortgage lender?  I’ve >: known a couple of people who did this, but they all did it through the >: seller – the seller "helped" with financing by providing the smaller >: second mortgage.  But it’s such a seller’s market in this area, people >: selling houses aren’t willing to do any kind of creative financing, they >: don’t have to because multiple offers will be on the table within a week >: or two.  But the banks are more flexible – especially for people with >: excellent credit but little cash.  I suppose I need to talk to the bank, >: but it would be good to know if something like this is possible. >: Karen >: — >: http://members.xoom.com/regencyread/ >– >Do not use if brain is raw, blistered, or oozing.

Response:

>Some have suggested the earning 20-30% on your money in the stock market >is a better use than saving 7% or so by pre-paying your mortgage.

Who earns even close to that kind of return, consistently?

Response:

>Some have suggested the earning 20-30% on your money in the stock market >is a better use than saving 7% or so by pre-paying your mortgage.  

Well, that depends on how highly leveraged you want to be; whether you have a "balanced" portfolio and what the balance is.  If one is SURE they will earn 20-30% in the stock market, hell, max out your credit card cash advances, buy to the max on margin, put it all in to the sure thing (internet stocks, perhaps?) Trouble is, those high returns are in hindsight, doesn’t tell you when the next 20% drop will be, that doesn’t end up recovering in a wekk or two. The 7% or so is similar to the interest rate on bonds that make up a portion of many people’s balanced portfolios.  As part of an overall plan, for many, it is perfectly reasonable to go for the "sure thing" savings (that’s what FRUGAL is all about) and leave the max leverage, high risk/high gain (highest INCOME not what frugal is about, "frugal" is more like lowest costs…..) to others. just MHO, -v. who has plenty invested in stocks, but also only took about a 65% LTV mortgage on his new house.

Response:

Can anyone give me some tips on how to go about looking for the best mortgage?  I’ve tried a mortgage banker in my area, and Norwest Mortgage, and neither are really that great.  What about Internet mortgage companies — has anyone used those, and what was your experience? We’re looking for an FHA loan, with approximately 7.5% interest rate, and not a lot of fees such as the loan origination fee.  Any advice? Thanks in advance, Lynnette

Response:

> Can anyone give me some tips on how to go about looking for the best > mortgage?  I’ve tried a mortgage banker in my area, and Norwest > Mortgage, and neither are really that great.  What about Internet

Do not go to a banker; find a mortgage broker.  They are in a sense speciality shoppers.  They get their commissions by finding customers the best mortgage deal and by finding customers for lenders. — |  Donald Phillipson, 4180 Boundary Road, Carlsbad Springs,  | |        Ontario, Canada, K0A 1K0, tel. 613 822 0734         |

Response:

It seems like a sellers market now, rates are raising so they know that if they don’t loan it now, they will probably get more next month.  I thought it was annnoying to pay six hundred for an application fee AND $300 for "loan consideration" which I guess means that I had to pay them to think about loaning it to me after I paid them to look at the papers.  geez. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Can anyone give me some tips on how to go about looking for the best > mortgage?  I’ve tried a mortgage banker in my area, and Norwest > Mortgage, and neither are really that great.  What about Internet > mortgage companies — has anyone used those, and what was your > experience? > We’re looking for an FHA loan, with approximately 7.5% interest rate, > and not a lot of fees such as the loan origination fee.  Any advice? > Thanks in advance, > Lynnette

Response:

> I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting > an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr > first at 7.25%.

Is this something you can get directly from the mortgage lender?  I’ve known a couple of people who did this, but they all did it through the seller – the seller "helped" with financing by providing the smaller second mortgage.  But it’s such a seller’s market in this area, people selling houses aren’t willing to do any kind of creative financing, they don’t have to because multiple offers will be on the table within a week or two.  But the banks are more flexible – especially for people with excellent credit but little cash.  I suppose I need to talk to the bank, but it would be good to know if something like this is possible. Karen — http://members.xoom.com/regencyread/

Response:

> When you can get money at 7.25%, you take all you can get.  There is > absolutely no reason to believe that the historical long-term returns of > the stock market are not going to continue. (..snip..) > I’m willing to bet you that I can find more financial advisors that would > tell you it is smarter to borrow at todays rates and leave the money in the > market, rather than put it down on a house.

It all boils down to how you view the future of the market. If you think the stock market will rocket for another decade before the baby boomers cash out, borrow all you can at current rates, then invest what you could have put down. Personally, I edge for putting more down and borrowing less. A 30% swing in the stock market is just less value on paper in a drawer somewhere… and it doesn’t matter where I live. But a mere 10% swing on a house financed requiring PMI might turn "upside down" in a bad economy, when I might be forced to move for a better job. Leverage can be pretty scary stuff, and a lot of people in Southern Cal found out in 1990.

Response:

In misc.consumers.house >2. Put at least 20% down if you can, to avoid having to pay "PMI" or >   Private Mortgage Insurance, which benefits only the mortgage company >   and not your family if you die unexpectedly.

I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr first at 7.25%. My payments are lower than a 90-10, all the interest is tax deductible where the PMI isn’t, and if I wish later, I can pay off the second and reduce the monthly payment significantly.( about $150) Bruce

Response:

>>2. Put at least 20% down if you can, to avoid having to pay "PMI" or >   Private Mortgage Insurance, which benefits only the mortgage company >   and not your family if you die unexpectedly. >I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting >an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr >first at 7.25%.

If you really wanna be frugal, don’t borrow so much.  What we borrowed came to 65% of the total cost.  (And we took that for 15 yrs.)  Yes, I know all about "leverage"… but the expense of house pmts (even deductable ones) is a "sure thing" while supposed investment gains are not.  All in all, we thought it best to "put down" more and/or borrow less. Most folks borrowing the max are not doing it to leave alone a stash of cash that they *could have* put down; they’re using all their cash PLUS borrowing to the max.  Which is not very frugal. Just MHO, -v.

Response:

In misc.consumers.house > I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting > an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr > first at 7.25%. >Is this something you can get directly from the mortgage lender?  I’ve >known a couple of people who did this, but they all did it through the >seller – the seller "helped" with financing by providing the smaller >second mortgage.  But it’s such a seller’s market in this area, people >selling houses aren’t willing to do any kind of creative financing, they >don’t have to because multiple offers will be on the table within a week >or two.  But the banks are more flexible – especially for people with >excellent credit but little cash.  I suppose I need to talk to the bank, >but it would be good to know if something like this is possible.

I’m doing it through www.america1mortgage.com.  I gathered that some lenders charge a fee for this, but the one they found for me doesn’t. Bruce

Response:

In misc.consumers.house >I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting >an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr >first at 7.25%. >If you really wanna be frugal, don’t borrow so much.  What we borrowed >came to 65% of the total cost.  (And we took that for 15 yrs.)  Yes, I >know all about "leverage"… but the expense of house pmts (even >deductable ones) is a "sure thing" while supposed investment gains are >not.  All in all, we thought it best to "put down" more and/or borrow >less.

When you can get money at 7.25%, you take all you can get.  There is absolutely no reason to believe that the historical long-term returns of the stock market are not going to continue.  I could pay cash for my house if I wanted and it is only because of those "unsure" investment gains.  I am also completely comfortable with the payments I have. The only reason I put down 10% was to get rid of the PMI.  I’d  prefer a 100% loan and the tax deductions that go with it. >Most folks borrowing the max are not doing it to leave alone a stash >of cash that they *could have* put down; they’re using all their cash >PLUS borrowing to the max.  Which is not very frugal.

I agree that this is true for a lot of folks, I don’t know if it is most. I’m willing to bet you that I can find more financial advisors that would tell you it is smarter to borrow at todays rates and leave the money in the market, rather than put it down on a house.  Of course, a good one will also advise you to do what you are most comfortable with. Bruce

Response:

|2. Put at least 20% down if you can, to avoid having to pay "PMI" or |   Private Mortgage Insurance, which benefits only the mortgage company |   and not your family if you die unexpectedly. In some places or with some lenders, a lower loan / value ratio also allows one to not have escrow / impound accounts for property tax and house insurance. — Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome.             netcom.com No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

Response:

AAA mortg. services (at least in MA) had a couple of these available.  The guy I spoke with said Fannie Mae would be putting some rules in place  in the near future to discourage this practice. Some have suggested the earning 20-30% on your money in the stock market is a better use than saving 7% or so by pre-paying your mortgage.   Chris :> I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting :> an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr :> first at 7.25%. : Is this something you can get directly from the mortgage lender?  I’ve : known a couple of people who did this, but they all did it through the : seller – the seller "helped" with financing by providing the smaller : second mortgage.  But it’s such a seller’s market in this area, people : selling houses aren’t willing to do any kind of creative financing, they : don’t have to because multiple offers will be on the table within a week : or two.  But the banks are more flexible – especially for people with : excellent credit but little cash.  I suppose I need to talk to the bank, : but it would be good to know if something like this is possible. : Karen : — : http://members.xoom.com/regencyread/ — Do not use if brain is raw, blistered, or oozing.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In misc.consumers.house >2. Put at least 20% down if you can, to avoid having to pay "PMI" or >   Private Mortgage Insurance, which benefits only the mortgage company >   and not your family if you die unexpectedly. > I’m getting a new mortgage right now and in order to avoid PMI, I’m getting > an 80-10-10.  That is 10% down, 10% 15yr second at 8.25%, and an 80% 30yr > first at 7.25%. > My payments are lower than a 90-10, all the interest is tax deductible > where the PMI isn’t, and if I wish later, I can pay off the second and > reduce the monthly payment significantly.( about $150) > Bruce

My sister is doing something similar. She found it by calling around. I think its called a "Blended mortgage." Rick Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Question:

> I’m thinking about moving to the US.  I’m currently looking at > houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions.

I already responded, but I forgot to mention the most important part:     http://www.homefair.com/ I’ve lived a lot of places in the US, and I’ve at least visited every one of the 50 states, and the comparisons HomeFair generates among these seem to me to be pretty fair.  I have no idea whatsoever how good their international comparisons are.  Use at your own risk, etc., etc. —  From the catapult of J.D. Baldwin  |+| "If anyone disagrees with anything I  _|70|___:::)=}-  for PGP public    |+| retract it, but also to deny under        /         key information.  |+| oath that I ever said it." –T. Lehrer

Response:

> > … Your house > payment will be more than just the principal and interest, though — > local property taxes (see below) are estimated for the year, spread > out monthly and added to the payment. > That is called escrow and is usually optional.  I pay my taxes directly > twice per year right to the county.  Sometimes insurance payments are > also escrowed.

Not always optional.  Most places in Michigan, you have to use an escrow agent (almost always your mortgage company) for some number of years, then you may apply for the privilege of paying your own taxes yourself!  It sounds weird, I know, and it *is* weird, for that matter, but that’s how it is. >  Depending on how much you put > up for the house, you’ll also pay "Private Mortgage Insurance" which > 20% is the usual cut off.  If you borrow more than 80% of the house’s > value them you have to pay PMI.

Yes, and lots of mortgage companies will prorate your PMI down (re- assessing it annually) as you build equity.  The reason I characterize it as a scam is because it amounts to double-dipping.  The whole point of the interest you pay on the mortgage loan is to justify the risk the lender takes on you — why should you pay to insure him for that risk as well?  If the upshot of abolishing PMI were that interest rates go up a bit, then fine — at least interest is deductible! > > How much does a "normal" family house cost? > >     (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at > > approx. 1400 square feet.) > "Normal" family house in the US is typically defined a bit larger than > that.  For the scenario I mentioned above, let’s say $140,000 – > $180,000 for a 4BR, 2000-2300 sq. ft. house in a nice neighborhood > with reasonable amenities. > Yow.  That’s much higher than here.

Doesn’t surprise me.  I have friends and relatives in Rochester (MN), and I’m from Minneapolis my own self.  Cost of living there is, in general, substantially cheaper than most places where the quality of life is so high.  I guess the Mayo Clinic pays slave wages or something . . . —  From the catapult of J.D. Baldwin  |+| "If anyone disagrees with anything I  _|70|___:::)=}-  for PGP public    |+| retract it, but also to deny under        /         key information.  |+| oath that I ever said it." –T. Lehrer

Response:

I don’t mind paying tax, but I do mind the big brothers making paying tax so complicated. Why don’t they just send me a postcard telling me how much tax I own? I would be happy to mail out the check. Tax? If one works for a company; Social security tax paid by you through you. Social security tax paid by you through your company. If one works for oneself; Self-employment tax. Medicare, Unemployment, Workers comp, Disability…(read your W-2 & pay stab) Income tax Capital gain tax Telecom tax…(presume one has phone(s)) Cable tax(presume one has cable) Utility tax(gas, electricity, water, garbage…) Property tax(home owner) Sales tax State tax More(you name it) By the way, according to Business Week, 50% IRS revenue was paid by 5% of Tax payers.

=>+I agree!  Most people pay 25-30% federal tax, but this can scale up to 38% =>+depending on income.   => =>This is a common misunderstanding — but a misunderstanding it is. =>The rates you are referring to are called "marginal" tax rates: above =>a certain level, *additional* income is taxed at 28%, above another =>threshold *additional* income is taxed at 31%, and so on. My statement =>was that most Americans pay about 10% of their *total income* in =>national income tax, and I stand by it. Don’t believe me? Get out your =>last year’s income tax return. Compare your total tax owed to your =>adjusted gross income. => =>[snip] =>+> >>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal =>+(national) =>+> income tax << =>+> =>+> This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low income, =>+far =>+> lower than what the average American earns. => =>Sorry, you’re wrong. Read what I wrote. Then go back and read it again. =>I’m talking about percent of total income, not marginal rates. => =>For example, take a typical family of four (married couple filing a joint =>return, two children). Four personal exemptions at $2700 each, plus the =>standard deduction of $7100, means that the first $17900 of income is =>not taxed AT ALL. The next $42350 is taxed at 15%. => =>Let’s suppose that this hypothetical family has a gross income of $60000. =>Only $42100 of that is taxable, at a 15% rate — $6315 in tax, or just =>over 10.5% of total income. — E-Mail: SkyWalker1689 at Hotmail period Company

Response:

>Yes, and lots of mortgage companies will prorate your PMI down (re- >assessing it annually) as you build equity.  The reason I characterize >it as a scam is because it amounts to double-dipping.  The whole point >of the interest you pay on the mortgage loan is to justify the risk >the lender takes on you — why should you pay to insure him for that >risk as well?  If the upshot of abolishing PMI were that interest rates >go up a bit, then fine — at least interest is deductible!

Except that it’s not double dipping.  The interest rate that was available to us was the same whether we put down 20% or 5%.  But the risk to the lender that you will default and they will take losses goes up a great deal when you are under 20%, and the less you put down, the more risk.  We could have taken a loan with a lender who "self-insures" for PMI which means you don’t pay PMI, but you do pay a higher interest rate on the loan.  But we expect to make that 20% equity sometime this spring or summer, and rates are low enough that if the lender stupidly refuses to remove the PMI, we can easily refi out from under it.  Paying a year of PMI was the better option for us than *having* to refi out from under the higher interest loan at uncertain interest rates.  Most people actually *do* have a choice of whether to pay the PMI or the higher interest.

Response:

>> "Normal" family house in the US is typically defined a bit larger than > that.  For the scenario I mentioned above, let’s say $140,000 – > $180,000 for a 4BR, 2000-2300 sq. ft. house in a nice neighborhood > with reasonable amenities. >Yow.  That’s much higher than here.

And here the price would be much higher.  :)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Could you possibly answer some of these? (Please mail me!) >How is a house financed in the US? >    (In Denmark, where I’m from, we normally pay the loan back over a period >of 30 years at 5-6% p.a.) >    (A month thats about 0.8% of the totalcost of the home) >What is the average taxrate in the US? >    (In Denmark I pay about 50% (!!!) in taxes) >How much does a "normal" family house cost? >    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. 1400 >square feet.) >How much money does a windows-software-developer with 5 years below the belt >earn a year? >    (I know it’s difficult to estimate but try it any way) (Today I earn >$50.000 a year) >You dont have to answer all questions for you to mail me… any one of the >above will be great! >Regard >Carsten Suurland

I’ll try my best: 1. Homes are financed the same way, typically 15 or 30 year loans, current rate for a 15yr. is around 6.5%, 30yr. is a little higher. 2  Taxrate, I think I am paying around 28% (married) 3. House costs vary greatly depending in what area (state) you buy, for $200,000 you will get a 2 bedroom condo in a metropolitan area like Chicago, New York, etc….and for the same money a mansion elsewhere.. 4. IT jobs are greatly in demand right now, if you are certified you can easily make around $70,000/year with your experience. Hope this helped. RalphK

Response:

+ +> >>>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal +> >(national) income tax << +> > +> >This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low +> >income, far lower than what the average American earns. +> +> Whether you think so or not, it *is* right. Don’t believe me? +> Find your income tax return from last year, and compare your +> total tax paid to adjusted gross income — NOT to taxable +> income. +[snip] + +Out of curiousity, I did just that. For me the ratio comes out to 16.5%. + You’re single, I’d imagine, or your income is pretty well into six figures — either of which makes you distinctly not average. I stand by my statement: the average American pays approximately ten percent of total income in Federal income tax. — dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net

Response:

> I’m thinking about moving to the US.  I’m currently looking at > houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. > Could you possibly answer some of these? (Please mail me!)

I’ll answer publicly in case I grossly misstate something.  I’m sure someone will jump in with a correction. > How is a house financed in the US? >     (In Denmark, where I’m from, we normally pay the loan back over a period > of 30 years at 5-6% p.a.) >     (A month thats about 0.8% of the totalcost of the home)

The basic idea is the same — you take out a loan (15- 20- or 30-year) and pay it back at around 6.5% interest (currently).  Your house payment will be more than just the principal and interest, though — local property taxes (see below) are estimated for the year, spread out monthly and added to the payment.  Depending on how much you put up for the house, you’ll also pay "Private Mortgage Insurance" which > What is the average taxrate in the US? >     (In Denmark I pay about 50% (!!!) in taxes)

Top marginal tax rates might be up to 35-40% depending on state and possibly even locality for a middle class family.  Total effective *income* tax rates will generally be 20-30% of income, not including about 7.5% social security / medicare taxes.  Then, of course, most US states have sales tax, and there are various others.  Most middle class Americans and up paying about half their income in taxes, but a great deal of that comes from other sources than income taxes. As others have noted, cost of living varies incredibly widely depending on location within the US.  But I’ll give you rough benchmarks for SW Michigan, suburban near a medium-sized city: > How much does a "normal" family house cost? >     (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at > approx. 1400 square feet.)

"Normal" family house in the US is typically defined a bit larger than that.  For the scenario I mentioned above, let’s say $140,000 – $180,000 for a 4BR, 2000-2300 sq. ft. house in a nice neighborhood with reasonable amenities. Most cost-of-living items such as food, clothing, gasoline, etc. are going to be sharply cheaper here than what you’re used to.  Especially the gasoline! > How much money does a windows-software-developer with 5 years below > the belt earn a year? >     (I know it’s difficult to estimate but try it any way) (Today I earn > $50.000 a year)

I think you’d match that pretty much anywhere but the most backward regions.  Your best shot to start would be a "body shop" that would hire you and then turn around and rent you out to a client.  (They’ll charge three times what they’re paying you!)  That’s a great way to build experience, and the labor shortage is intense enough that just about anyone can at least get hired on. One area in which you should be careful is benefits.  In the US, the public health and disability, etc., benefits are sharply inferior to what you are probably used to, and they are very much means-tested. (I happen to consider this state of affairs to be a very positive thing, but that’s beside the point right now.)  You will want to ensure that you sign on with a company that has a good, solid health insurance plan.  And if they don’t have disability insurance, make very very sure that you purchase some on your own. <PLUG>My company doesn’t do windows-specific development, but if you have good general development skills and think you might be interested in RDBMS or Java development in SW or SE Michigan, please shoot me a resume.</PLUG> —  From the catapult of J.D. Baldwin  |+| "If anyone disagrees with anything I  _|70|___:::)=}-  for PGP public    |+| retract it, but also to deny under        /         key information.  |+| oath that I ever said it." –T. Lehrer

Response:

>>>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal (national) >income tax << >This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low income, far >lower than what the average American earns.

Whether you think so or not, it *is* right. Don’t believe me? Find your income tax return from last year, and compare your total tax paid to adjusted gross income — NOT to taxable income. Read what I wrote. Then go back and read it again. I’m talking about percent of *total income*, not marginal rates. For example, take a typical family of four (married couple filing a joint return, two children). Four personal exemptions at $2700 each, plus the standard deduction of $7100, means that the first $17900 of income is not taxed AT ALL. The next $42350 is taxed at 15%. Let’s suppose that this hypothetical family has a gross income of $60000. Only $42100 of that is taxable, at a 15% rate — $6315 in tax, or just over 10.5% of total income. For 1998, there is an additional *credit* of $400 per child, reducing the tax owed to $5515, or 9.2% of total income. — Doug Miller dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net     (‘from’ field rigged to foil e-mail spammers) views expressed are mine and not those of Hospital Health Plan Corp.  "all health care is local"

Response:

> >>>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal >(national) income tax << >This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low >income, far lower than what the average American earns. > Whether you think so or not, it *is* right. Don’t believe me? > Find your income tax return from last year, and compare your > total tax paid to adjusted gross income — NOT to taxable > income.

[snip] Out of curiousity, I did just that. For me the ratio comes out to 16.5%. > For example, take a typical family of four (married couple filing a > joint return, two children).[snip]

The US government seems to practise "social engineering through tax policy" – they want you to have children and a mortgage. They would also like you to be married, with a large disparity in income between the spouses. If the family described above has one spouse with a high-paying professional career, and the other with little or no income (as well as the kids and a mortgage), they are well-positioned to pay minimum taxes. Once any of these factors is disturbed – such as the two spouses making similar incomes, OR no kids, OR no mortgage – their total tax will increase sharply. Just my 5 centimes. IANAL. — Hmm… this "Spam-B-Gone" doesn’t seem to work… What would happen if I pulled the plug on the Reality Engine?

Response:

>Out of curiousity, I did just that. For me the ratio comes out to 16.5%.

Then you’re an above average American.  :)  You at least must be in the 28% bracket to pay that much. >The US government seems to practise "social engineering through tax >policy" – they want you to have children and a mortgage. They would also >like you to be married, with a large disparity in income between the >spouses. If the family described above has one spouse with a high-paying >professional career, and the other with little or no income (as well as >the kids and a mortgage), they are well-positioned to pay minimum taxes. >Once any of these factors is disturbed – such as the two spouses making >similar incomes, OR no kids, OR no mortgage – their total tax will >increase sharply.

This is not quite right.  A married couple with a large disparity between incomes will benefit over an unmarried couple in the same circumstance, but a married couple with the same total income but making similar incomes will pay the same tax as the married couple with the large disparity.  A married couple with similar incomes actually gets hit with a penalty for being married over being unmarried. Our daughter will save us $805 in taxes this year, $400 of that from the new child tax credit.  This is out of a total tax liability of around $4,000.  So at our income level, each child saves us 20% on our taxes. We don’t even make the average income, so the savings would be less for the average American family.  The standard exemptions are there so that you don’t pay tax on some small amount that is supposed to provide basic support for each person.  Or do you believe in exemptions for adults and none for children?  The $805 savings in taxes per child does not even come close to what it actually costs to raise a child, so please don’t be thinking that having children actually improves the average person’s financial situation just because their taxes go down a bit. As far as a mortgage goes, we expect that as the standard deduction is adjusted for inflation, and the amount we are paying in interest goes down as the loan is amortized, the mortgage interest deduction will no longer give us any tax savings in about 5 years, unless some other deduction comes along to put us back over the line.  The actual tax savings from the mortgage interest deduction versus when we were renting is actually quite minimal.  I’d certainly be willing to see a phaseout of the mortgage interest deduction over some period in exchange for an overall lowering of taxes.

Response:

The big question that has to be answered is, are you legally entitled to work in the U.S.?  If you don’t have a green card you’ll have to get an employer to sponsor you for an H-1B visa, and those are hard to come by — there are limited quantities available every year, and the allocation usually runs out a few months early.  It’s a hassle for the employers to deal with H-1Bs, so they only want to if they are getting the worker significantly below market value or they can’t find anyone in the U.S. to do the job. I’m not an attorney or immigration expert, this is just my observation from working in high-tech and seeing my employer deal with these visas. Mike >Hi there… >I’m thinking about moving to the US. >I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. >How much does a "normal" family house cost? >    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. > 1400 >square feet.)

– "We’re not against ideas.  We’re against people spreading them." (General Augusto Pinochet of Chile)

Response:

I agree!  Most people pay 25-30% federal tax, but this can scale up to 38% depending on income.  In addition, the self-employed  workers pay an additional "self-employment" tax.  State income taxes can reach 10% in higher tax jurisdictions.  On top of that, add property tax, state sales taxes, and other fees, and its possible to reach 50% in the U.S–and that doesn’t include health care benefits, disability, or long term care benefits as available in many European countries.  The great thing about the American system is that through the magic of deductions, people with similar incomes pay widely varying incomes.  I know of one individual who only paid 20% in federal taxes last year on $ 1 million in income.  He had no mortgage deduction, only one child, a lavish expense account covering food and household expenses, free transportation with a jet and a helicopter at his disposal, and a lifetime pension of $100,000 after only four years of service.  Yes, you guessed it– Bill Clinton (the ultimate hypocrite?) Andy (wish I could pay only 20% on far less than a million) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal (national) > income tax << > This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low income, far > lower than what the average American earns. In all fairness to the person from, > Denmark, I’d thought most middle-income people paid about 25% to 30% in Federal > taxes (even after deductions). But you do get to deduct your mortgage payment > from your income (along with other things) before you pay taxes. > Katy Munger > (Also an author…)

Response:

AndyFleming writes: >I know >of one individual who only paid 20% in federal taxes last year on $ 1 >million in income.  He had no mortgage deduction, only one child, a lavish >expense account covering food and household expenses, free transportation >with a jet and a helicopter at his disposal, and a lifetime pension of >$100,000 after only four years of service.  Yes, you guessed it– Bill >Clinton (the ultimate hypocrite?)

What this has to do with living in the U.S. I don’t know, but it’s not even right:  Clinton is only reaching for territory solidly occupied by the likes of Henry Hyde, and Ms. Chenowith. Charlie Self Word Worker

Response:

+I agree!  Most people pay 25-30% federal tax, but this can scale up to 38% +depending on income.   This is a common misunderstanding — but a misunderstanding it is. The rates you are referring to are called "marginal" tax rates: above a certain level, *additional* income is taxed at 28%, above another threshold *additional* income is taxed at 31%, and so on. My statement was that most Americans pay about 10% of their *total income* in national income tax, and I stand by it. Don’t believe me? Get out your last year’s income tax return. Compare your total tax owed to your adjusted gross income. [snip] +> >>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal +(national) +> income tax << +> +> This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low income, +far +> lower than what the average American earns. Sorry, you’re wrong. Read what I wrote. Then go back and read it again. I’m talking about percent of total income, not marginal rates. For example, take a typical family of four (married couple filing a joint return, two children). Four personal exemptions at $2700 each, plus the standard deduction of $7100, means that the first $17900 of income is not taxed AT ALL. The next $42350 is taxed at 15%. Let’s suppose that this hypothetical family has a gross income of $60000. Only $42100 of that is taxable, at a 15% rate — $6315 in tax, or just over 10.5% of total income. — dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net

Response:

+Hi there… + +I’m thinking about moving to the US. Welcome! Have you been here before? +I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. + +Could you possibly answer some of these? (Please mail me!) + +How is a house financed in the US? +    (In Denmark, where I’m from, we normally pay the loan back over a period +of 30 years at 5-6% p.a.) +    (A month thats about 0.8% of the totalcost of the home) + The 30-year loan period is typical here also. Our interest rates are slightly higher, at about 6.5 to 7.5%. +What is the average taxrate in the US? +    (In Denmark I pay about 50% (!!!) in taxes) The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal (national) income tax, and approximately 7% in "Social Security" (government-sponsored pension system) tax. State and local taxes vary too widely to estimate, without knowledge of the specific area of the U.S. in which you wish to live. Most states have at least two of income, sales, and real-estate taxes. Here in Indiana, our state income tax is 3.4%, local income tax ranges from zero to one percent, sales tax is 5% (food and prescription medicine are exempt), and real-estate taxes are modest in most cases. This is reasonably typical, I believe, although somewhat lower than average. + +How much does a "normal" family house cost? +    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. 1400 +square feet.) This varies *greatly* with location. What you describe would be a bargain in San Francisco or San Jose, and unconscionable thievery in Indianapolis or Grand Rapids. In general, housing prices are higher than average on both the east and west coasts, and lower than average in the central region. + +How much money does a windows-software-developer with 5 years below the belt +earn a year? +    (I know it’s difficult to estimate but try it any way) (Today I earn +$50.000 a year) + This also varies greatly with location — but I think that you could get an increase in salary in most major cities in the U.S. The trick is to find a city with relatively high salaries and a relatively low cost of housing. Try to find a copy of "The Places Rated Almanac" which rates and compares some 300 metropolitan areas in the United States with regard to various factors, including cost of living, climate, crime rate, and so on. +You dont have to answer all questions for you to mail me… any one of the +above will be great! I hope this helps. + +Regard +Carsten Suurland — dlmiller/at/netdirect/dot/net

Response:

>Try to find a copy of "The Places Rated Almanac" which rates and compares >some 300 metropolitan areas in the United States with regard to various >factors, including cost of living, climate, crime rate, and so on.

Here you go:  Money Magazine’s ratings of best 100 places to live in US…  http://pathfinder.com/money/bestplaces/index.html BTW to the original poster … the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area of North Carolina (called the Research Triangle) where I live is an attractive place for computer/techy jobs.  Climate is mild; cost of housing medium/high; but it’s not a particularly culturally diverse or cosmopolitan place.  Nice suburban area to raise a family, though. Best wishes, Katie Our e-mail address has been modified to derail those dreaded spammers.  To reply by e-mail, take out all of the x’s.

Response:

>>The average American pays about 10% of total income in Federal (national)

income tax << This can’t possibly be right. I think that rate is for a very low income, far lower than what the average American earns. In all fairness to the person from, Denmark, I’d thought most middle-income people paid about 25% to 30% in Federal taxes (even after deductions). But you do get to deduct your mortgage payment from your income (along with other things) before you pay taxes. Katy Munger (Also an author…)

Response:

>   Well, as a Northerner who has visited RTP a couple of times during >the summer, I certainly would NOT call the climate "mild"!  ( Not >to mention someone from Denmark – when I was in Copenhagen last July, >the temperature averaged around 15C for more than a week.  From what >I was told, that’s not terribly unusual. )

Sheesh, do we have to have this argument again?  I am from the North originally.  It’s not mild there in the winter; it is in the summer. I now live in the South.  It is mild here in the winter; not in the summer.  It all depends on what you like.  I grew up in snow and crap… that does not mean I like it.  I’ll take 90 degree summers over single digit winters.  Maybe the original poster would like it too. Katie Our e-mail address has been modified to derail those dreaded spammers.  To reply by e-mail, take out all of the x’s.

Response:

>I am from the North > originally.  It’s not mild there in the winter; it is in the summer. > I now live in the South.  It is mild here in the winter; not in the > summer.  It all depends on what you like.  I grew up in snow and > crap… that does not mean I like it.  I’ll take 90 degree summers > over single digit winters.

90F degree summers are no problem with low humidity. However in the Southeastern USA the humidity is 90% also. You start sweating the minute you step outside.  If you want an interesting climate go to the dry climates in the deserts of the Western USA.  There, for example in Hell’s Canyon [Ore-Idaho border], the temperature can be 120F in the shade [but there is no shade] during the daytime and freeze a water bag solid at night.  However it is more comfortable in the day at 120F than it is in the Southeast when the humidity and temperature are 90% and 90F. — Cheers, Steve Henning, Reading, Pennsylvania, USA Visit my home page at http://www.users.fast.net/~shenning

Response:

Try the newsgroup misc.investing.real-estate. Also check out some of the web sites of the real estate brokers in the US (i.e. www.remax.com) or home for sale by owner (i.e. www.fsbo.com). Depending upon the region you can see what you get for a given price and sometimes photos are even included. -al sung Hopkinton,MA

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi there… >I’m thinking about moving to the US. >I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. >How much does a "normal" family house cost? >    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. 1400 >square feet.)

Response:

>>Hi there… >I’m thinking about moving to the US. >I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. >How much does a "normal" family house cost? >    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. >1400 >square feet.)

Try http://new.realtor.com/ for real estate listings across the country.  It’ll give you some idea. Katie Our e-mail address has been modified to derail those dreaded spammers.  To reply by e-mail, take out all of the x’s.

Response:

Hi there… I’m thinking about moving to the US. I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. Could you possibly answer some of these? (Please mail me!) How is a house financed in the US?     (In Denmark, where I’m from, we normally pay the loan back over a period of 30 years at 5-6% p.a.)     (A month thats about 0.8% of the totalcost of the home) What is the average taxrate in the US?     (In Denmark I pay about 50% (!!!) in taxes) How much does a "normal" family house cost?     (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. 1400 square feet.) How much money does a windows-software-developer with 5 years below the belt earn a year?     (I know it’s difficult to estimate but try it any way) (Today I earn $50.000 a year) You dont have to answer all questions for you to mail me… any one of the above will be great! Regard Carsten Suurland

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -csu writes: >I’m thinking about moving to the US. >I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. >Could you possibly answer some of these? (Please mail me!) >How is a house financed in the US? >    (In Denmark, where I’m from, we normally pay the loan back over a period >of 30 years at 5-6% p.a.) >    (A month thats about 0.8% of the totalcost of the home) >What is the average taxrate in the US? >    (In Denmark I pay about 50% (!!!) in taxes) >How much does a "normal" family house cost? >    (Here… about $200.000 – $220.000 for a 3 bedroom house at approx. 1400 >square feet.) >How much money does a windows-software-developer with 5 years below the belt >earn a year? >    (I know it’s difficult to estimate but try it any way) (Today I earn >$50.000 a year)

The difficulty is in the variance:  this is a large country, unlike most European countries, with great differences in population levels, employment, and prices coast to coast. Well, maybe not so great coast to coast:  DC and LA are both ridiculous. Where I live, the average house has risen to about $140,000 on one acre or so, in the past five years.  It may be due for another leap as the county was just raped–er re-assessed. That’s for about 1800 to 2000 square feet, with heat pump, central air and usually 2-1/2 baths, and, yes, three bedrooms. Banks:  I THINK the mortgage rates now are about 7%.  My house is paid for (it’s also tiny), so I have no need to know here, so I haven’t paid much attention. The average tax rate–federal taxes, is something under 30%. I think i’ts 28%, actually, for most of us, until income reaches about 93K.  Let’s not forget anywhere from 0-12% in state taxes.  Sales taxes.  And, in some states (including, unfortunately, Virginia where I live), personal property rip-offs. Real estate taxes vary a great amount from state to state, and county to county, too. Software developers don’t have any trouble getting better than 50K around here, and this is a low pay area.  Very low:  cost of living is listed at about 1/3 of DC and NYC. Charlie Self Word Worker

Response:

> >>Hi there… >>I’m thinking about moving to the US. >>I’m currently looking at houseprices, but I have some unaswered questions. >>How much does a "normal" family house cost? <snip>

As you’ve probably been able to decipher by now, the U.S. is a big place (much larger than all of Europe) and no one answer fits your questions.  Costs of living vary widely not just by region but by city and even within a city. For example here in Austin, Texas, the average house cost around $90,000 but I doubt you’d want to live in one. An average middle class house (2 or 3 bedroom) in a nice area will cost you at least twice that. Taxes also vary from city to city, state to state. Although the federal government doesn’t take too big of a bite in the form of income taxes, by the time you add up all taxes, you’ll probably be in the 50% range – ALL taxes. As a selling point for Austin, TX.  Software engineer and similar jobs are easy to come by here – our unemployment rate is around 2.5% and software companies can’t find enough bodies to fill available positions – we have approximately 950 software companies and several large hardware companies (Dell, AMD, Samsung (chips), 3M, Motorola, Apple). However, be aware that as Austin grows (second fastest in the country only behind Las Vegas) the town is becoming a little hostile to outsiders – but it’s still done in a good humored way! Also, the climate is a LOT different than Denmark’s – last summer we had almost 100 days of temperatures over 100 degrees Fahrenheit and very little rain, if any, for that 6 month period. On the plus side, we haven’t had but a couple of days this winter when you couldn’t were shorts and a short sleeve shirt — today’s high 86 degrees! CK

Response:

Question:

I have been trying to refinance since September 98.  I was waiting for rates to go to 6.5% or 6.75%.  I’m pretty sure during Sep to Dec, they did drop to those rates but unfortunately, my loan manager had a nervous breakdown.  Now someone else is helping me but I’m afraid he is not on the ball either so…what I need to know…is how do I find the rates myself?  I know where to get all the daily federal finance information but I don’t know how lenders arrive at their rate? Thanks, any information is appreciated.  Maybe you can educate me a little, too! hurdygurd

Response:

> I have been trying to refinance since September 98.  I was waiting for rates > to go to 6.5% or 6.75%.  I’m pretty sure during Sep to Dec, they did drop to > those rates but unfortunately, my loan manager had a nervous breakdown.  Now > someone else is helping me but I’m afraid he is not on the ball either > so…what I need to know…is how do I find the rates myself?  I know where > to get all the daily federal finance information but I don’t know how > lenders arrive at their rate? > Thanks, any information is appreciated.  Maybe you can educate me a little, > too!

http://www.interest.com/news.html Mark Atanowicz

Response:

www.quicken.com Go to the mortgate section, fill out some info, and get a list of current, real mortgate rates. > I have been trying to refinance since September 98.  I was waiting for rates > to go to 6.5% or 6.75%.  I’m pretty sure during Sep to Dec, they did drop to > those rates but unfortunately, my loan manager had a nervous breakdown.  Now > someone else is helping me but I’m afraid he is not on the ball either > so…what I need to know…is how do I find the rates myself?  I know where > to get all the daily federal finance information but I don’t know how > lenders arrive at their rate? > Thanks, any information is appreciated.  Maybe you can educate me a little, > too! > hurdygurd

– Particle Salad/ Noom Room Studio http://home.earthlink.net/~psalad

Response:

> I have been trying to refinance since September 98.  I was waiting for rates > to go to 6.5% or 6.75%.  I’m pretty sure during Sep to Dec, they did drop to > those rates but unfortunately, my loan manager had a nervous breakdown.  Now > someone else is helping me but I’m afraid he is not on the ball either > so…what I need to know…is how do I find the rates myself?  I know where > to get all the daily federal finance information but I don’t know how > lenders arrive at their rate? > Thanks, any information is appreciated.  Maybe you can educate me a little, > too! > hurdygurd

You would do best to contact any lenders you are familiar with. Rates change daily and sometimes 2 or 3 times a day. The rates printed in newspapers are usually 4 or more days old. Lately, the point spread between 6.5% and 6.75% has been very small. When you do lock in, get a written financing agreement immediately. — Timothy Sutherland / Allied Bancshares Mortgage Group   call 1-800-342-9882      Web page: (http://www.alliedfed.com) serving Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, West Va., & DC all types of credit and cash situations.  FHA/VA/Conventional

Response:

Question:

In order to fulfill my obligations under a recent divorce settlement, I am refinancing my house.  As a part of the same settlement, I am expected to pay some back income taxes.  So, I called a mortgage broker recommended by my ex-wife’s lawyer.  His receptionist gathed information for an application from me over the phone, gave me a list of documents to fax them, and I got a packet of stuff to sign a few days later in the mail.  In that packet there’s forms giving them permission to look at my tax records, verify my employment, Equal Credit Opportunity statements and whatnot.  OK.  No problem. There’s also a "Mortgage Brokerage Business Contract."  I don’t yet know this broker from Adam, so I’m hesitating before I touch that page with a pen.  There’s also a page titled "Federal Truth-In-Lending Disclosure Statement" which has this sort of payment schedule on it.  I owe a little under 50k on this house.  The schedule shows two years of $500 monthly payments, and one big 50k payment in 2000.  What is that all about?  (all numbers rounded off for simplicity). I know I’m not in a good situation.  I have to refinance by January under my divorce settlement.  I have no credit to speak of, having never borrowed any money for any reason until I bought this house.  After my wife left a couple years ago (it took us a while to get around to the divorce), I had some financial problems, and there are some slow-pays on the mortgage.  Since that’s my ONLY credit history, I expect some problems.  I also need to get some cash out of the deal to pay those income taxes.  So, all things considered, I figure I could use the assistance of a professional, but I’m not sure how to tell the good guys from the bad.  How do I tell?  Or, perhaps, should I avoid brokers? Here’s another thought:  I’d really like to build a deck.  I mean, I’d really like to do that.  The rates on ‘home improvement loans’ really look awful compared to mortgage rates.  Would it make sense to try getting that money now, too, and extend the life of the loan, or am I missing something?  I’m already cashing in equity to pay my wife’s back taxes, so it doesn’t seem out of line. . . I could really use some advice here. –eric

Response:

> In order to fulfill my obligations under a recent divorce settlement, I > am refinancing my house. > There’s also a "Mortgage Brokerage Business Contract."  I don’t yet know > this broker from Adam, so I’m hesitating before I touch that page with a > pen.  There’s also a page titled "Federal Truth-In-Lending Disclosure > Statement" which has this sort of payment schedule on it.  I owe a > little under 50k on this house.  The schedule shows two years of $500 > monthly payments, and one big 50k payment in 2000.  What is that all > about?

It’s called a balloon payment.  In essence you’ll only have a mortgage for two years and then you have to re-finance again. If your broker hasn’t explained this to you, take your business elsewhere.  He’s not being honest. You mentioned some credit worthness problems.  It will make it harder to get a more standard loan  It’s possible that the two year with a balloon is all that’s available.  But again, if he didn’t explain this up front, I wouldn’t trust him one bit. (opinions expressed are my own)

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In order to fulfill my obligations under a recent divorce settlement, I > am refinancing my house. > There’s also a "Mortgage Brokerage Business Contract."  I don’t yet know > this broker from Adam, so I’m hesitating before I touch that page with a > pen.  There’s also a page titled "Federal Truth-In-Lending Disclosure > Statement" which has this sort of payment schedule on it.  I owe a > little under 50k on this house.  The schedule shows two years of $500 > monthly payments, and one big 50k payment in 2000.  What is that all > about? > It’s called a balloon payment.  In essence you’ll only have a mortgage > for two years and then you have to re-finance again.

Or it could be a manifestation of a Y2K problem… > If your broker hasn’t explained this to you, take your business > elsewhere.  He’s not being honest.

No greater truth has been said (at least in this post :-) Bruce

Response:

>I know I’m not in a good situation.  I have to refinance by January >under my divorce settlement.  I have no credit to speak of, having never >borrowed any money for any reason until I bought this house.  After my >wife left a couple years ago (it took us a while to get around to the >divorce), I had some financial problems, and there are some slow-pays on >the mortgage.  Since that’s my ONLY credit history, I expect some >problems.  I also need to get some cash out of the deal to pay those >income taxes.  So, all things considered, I figure I could use the >assistance of a professional, but I’m not sure how to tell the good guys >from the bad.  How do I tell?  Or, perhaps, should I avoid brokers?

The problem is that brokers are generally better-suited to find non-standard loans than are banks.  If you’ve got late pays on your mortgage within the past 24 months, you will have great trouble finding a "Fannie Mae conforming" loan.  You’ll need a "non-conforming loan" which can be written to guidelines other than those that are standard.  But you’ll pay a higher rate for that. Also, you may have trouble getting cash out of your home (to build the deck) if you have some credit dings. As far as telling the good guys from the bad, that’s a tough one.  Word of mouth is usually the best determinant of quality of service, but that didn’t work for you. A lot of this depends on your "loan amount as a percentage of value"?  Just out of curiosity, how much is your house worth?  What size loan do you need? Christopher Munzo The Terrace Bank of Florida Web: http://www.flaloan.com Voice: 813-971-5700

Response:

Question:

> Should we get our lawyer involved?

Sounds like that would have been a good idea before you signed the contract. Sounds like you bought a pig in a poke. _

Response:

Other posters have written about how to deal with this situation.  I have some suggestions about how to PREVENT it in the future.  It amy also help some other people.   When we built our house, we had a three-page written contract with our builder before ground ever broke.  (This contract wasn’t legalese, it was a three-page description of the house.)  This contract specified every detail we could think of.  It had model numbers of all the kitchen appliances, model numbers on all the toilets and faucets in the bathroom and kitchen.  The type of counter-top in the kitchen and utility room. It also had the amount of cement in the concrete, how much rebar in the foundation, etc. Many of the items are open-ended.  These include:  cabinetry, lighting fixtures and flooring.  For all these, we had an allowance (specified in the contract).  With this allowance, we went shopping.  We chose the amount we wanted to spend in each area.  We dealt directly with the suppliers.  When we decided what we wanted, we gave them the builder’s name and told the supplier to coordinate with them for delivery and installation timetables. The big advantage of this is that it keeps the builder out of your pocket for "upgrades."  You can directly make the tradeoffs of quality and cost with any available supplier.  You don’t have to take the builder’s few choices knowing he is making all his profits on upgrades. I don’t know if all builders would work like this.  However, I wouldn’t work with any builder that didn’t. Mike Nickerson > I am curious what the readers of this newsgroup would recommend doing to > resolve the following situation. > In February we signed a contract for a house to be built by D.R. > Horton.  We were one of the first to sign up at this location, and did > so because there was a lot that we were anxious to obtain.   If we > didn’t get that lot, we probably wouldn’t be as interested in the > location.

<snip> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We were given the  price list for options that another D.R. Horton > development was using.  This development was farther along than the one > we are buying in, so they had their stuff together.  We were initially > told that this was not the actual price list, and then later were told > that it was the price list, but that some things would be upgraded one > level for no cost (we are buying in an area where the houses are almost > twice what the farther out development goes for on almost the identical > houses – location, location, location). > Although we now had a price list, we were not guaranteed that the same > materials would be used.  For example, things like Corian was obviously > going to be the same, but there was no guarantee that the standard, or > various upgrade levels of tile, or carpeting would be the same.  They > were still negotiating with their suppliers we were told.  The materials > we would get would be of equal or greater quality. > We went in yesterday to do our "release 2" where we pick out various > colors and options.  We were shocked to find out that the price of the > fireplace had increased from about $3200 to about $7100!  The story we > were given is that in the other development, a fireplace was standard, > and that in ours, it was not.  The price list did not reflect this. > They also mentioned that in our development, the central air was > standard, and in the others it was an option.  The price list she was > working off of was the same as ours, except things like the AC that was > standard at ours was struck through, and the fireplace was updated with > the higher prices (it was whited out and written over). > We still do not have a good idea of what the quality of things like the > carpeting is, and of course, are wondering if there will be further > surprises. We have been told that some prices, such as one of the > hardwood floor options, has actually gone down. > I read through the contract and other paperwork we have, and no where > does it say that the price list that we have is the one we are working > off of.  In fact, it has some clause about no other agreements, oral or > implied are part of the agreement (typical legal CYA).

<snip>

Response:

+AD4-Fortunately I think they are starting to come around and see our position. If +AD4-not, I am starting to put together quite a case against them.  I think their +AD4-latest proposal will get us within about +ACQ-1000.  I am debating if this is +AD4-enough to worry about pissing them off or not.  Yes, it is still +ACQ-1000, but on +AD4-a +ACQ-450,000 house, what is another grand? +AD4- hey is president clinton and hilery moving out for you to buy the white house.  +ACQ-450,000.00 for a house .  when i would pay that much for a house you better not piss me off. don’t worry about them. i thought you was buying a house not the white house. be good TURTLE

Response:

Thanks for your information.  I don’t know if it is too late for us or not. You definitely have the right idea. Fortunately I think they are starting to come around and see our position.  If not, I am starting to put together quite a case against them.  I think their latest proposal will get us within about $1000.  I am debating if this is enough to worry about pissing them off or not.  Yes, it is still $1000, but on a $450,000 house, what is another grand? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Other posters have written about how to deal with this situation.  I > have some suggestions about how to PREVENT it in the future.  It amy > also help some other people. > When we built our house, we had a three-page written contract with our > builder before ground ever broke.  (This contract wasn’t legalese, it > was a three-page description of the house.)  This contract specified > every detail we could think of.  It had model numbers of all the kitchen > appliances, model numbers on all the toilets and faucets in the bathroom > and kitchen.  The type of counter-top in the kitchen and utility room. > It also had the amount of cement in the concrete, how much rebar in the > foundation, etc. > Many of the items are open-ended.  These include:  cabinetry, lighting > fixtures and flooring.  For all these, we had an allowance (specified in > the contract).  With this allowance, we went shopping.  We chose the > amount we wanted to spend in each area.  We dealt directly with the > suppliers.  When we decided what we wanted, we gave them the builder’s > name and told the supplier to coordinate with them for delivery and > installation timetables. > The big advantage of this is that it keeps the builder out of your > pocket for "upgrades."  You can directly make the tradeoffs of quality > and cost with any available supplier.  You don’t have to take the > builder’s few choices knowing he is making all his profits on upgrades. > I don’t know if all builders would work like this.  However, I wouldn’t > work with any builder that didn’t. > Mike Nickerson > I am curious what the readers of this newsgroup would recommend doing to > resolve the following situation. > In February we signed a contract for a house to be built by D.R. > Horton.  We were one of the first to sign up at this location, and did > so because there was a lot that we were anxious to obtain.   If we > didn’t get that lot, we probably wouldn’t be as interested in the > location. > <snip> > We were given the  price list for options that another D.R. Horton > development was using.  This development was farther along than the one > we are buying in, so they had their stuff together.  We were initially > told that this was not the actual price list, and then later were told > that it was the price list, but that some things would be upgraded one > level for no cost (we are buying in an area where the houses are almost > twice what the farther out development goes for on almost the identical > houses – location, location, location). > Although we now had a price list, we were not guaranteed that the same > materials would be used.  For example, things like Corian was obviously > going to be the same, but there was no guarantee that the standard, or > various upgrade levels of tile, or carpeting would be the same.  They > were still negotiating with their suppliers we were told.  The materials > we would get would be of equal or greater quality. > We went in yesterday to do our "release 2" where we pick out various > colors and options.  We were shocked to find out that the price of the > fireplace had increased from about $3200 to about $7100!  The story we > were given is that in the other development, a fireplace was standard, > and that in ours, it was not.  The price list did not reflect this. > They also mentioned that in our development, the central air was > standard, and in the others it was an option.  The price list she was > working off of was the same as ours, except things like the AC that was > standard at ours was struck through, and the fireplace was updated with > the higher prices (it was whited out and written over). > We still do not have a good idea of what the quality of things like the > carpeting is, and of course, are wondering if there will be further > surprises. We have been told that some prices, such as one of the > hardwood floor options, has actually gone down. > I read through the contract and other paperwork we have, and no where > does it say that the price list that we have is the one we are working > off of.  In fact, it has some clause about no other agreements, oral or > implied are part of the agreement (typical legal CYA). > <snip>

Response:

I am curious what the readers of this newsgroup would recommend doing to resolve the following situation. In February we signed a contract for a house to be built by D.R. Horton.  We were one of the first to sign up at this location, and did so because there was a lot that we were anxious to obtain.   If we didn’t get that lot, we probably wouldn’t be as interested in the location. We were given a nice sales incentive as one of the first to sign up (which we later hear is what they are still offerring new people), but at the time we were nervous because all they could give us was a price on the basic house, lot, and elevations, but did not have an option list.  We knew that we would be getting fairly heavily into options, so this was important to us. We were given the  price list for options that another D.R. Horton development was using.  This development was farther along than the one we are buying in, so they had their stuff together.  We were initially told that this was not the actual price list, and then later were told that it was the price list, but that some things would be upgraded one level for no cost (we are buying in an area where the houses are almost twice what the farther out development goes for on almost the identical houses – location, location, location). Although we now had a price list, we were not guaranteed that the same materials would be used.  For example, things like Corian was obviously going to be the same, but there was no guarantee that the standard, or various upgrade levels of tile, or carpeting would be the same.  They were still negotiating with their suppliers we were told.  The materials we would get would be of equal or greater quality. We went in yesterday to do our "release 2" where we pick out various colors and options.  We were shocked to find out that the price of the fireplace had increased from about $3200 to about $7100!  The story we were given is that in the other development, a fireplace was standard, and that in ours, it was not.  The price list did not reflect this. They also mentioned that in our development, the central air was standard, and in the others it was an option.  The price list she was working off of was the same as ours, except things like the AC that was standard at ours was struck through, and the fireplace was updated with the higher prices (it was whited out and written over). We still do not have a good idea of what the quality of things like the carpeting is, and of course, are wondering if there will be further surprises. We have been told that some prices, such as one of the hardwood floor options, has actually gone down. I read through the contract and other paperwork we have, and no where does it say that the price list that we have is the one we are working off of.  In fact, it has some clause about no other agreements, oral or implied are part of the agreement (typical legal CYA). How should we handle this? Should we demand that they honor their price list, and risk them holding us to other prices that might go down (probalby not highly likely to happen). Should we write a letter to their corporate office? Should we get our lawyer involved? Should we just chalk it up to experience? Any thoughts?

Response:

Well as one who has had similar if not worse experience with a local builder, I’d say the builder holds the upper hand. The run-around they give you on options is a typical scam they use to charge whatever they can get, and it usually changes from day to day depending on how bad the builder’s cash flow is at any given time… Unfortunately with all the legal ease in the contracts written to protect the builder’s interest, you don’t have much leverage. In addition I’m sure someone online will be quick to ask the condescenting but rhetorical question: "What did your lawyer say before he had you sign the contracts? Oh, you didn’t seek the legal advise of a lawyer? Shame on you…" blah, blah, blah. The fact of the matter is, in many cases a lawyer can be useful, but many of the scum contractors will make your life so miserable if you have a lawyer protecting your rights, that you’ll never end up being able to purchase a house in the development you’re looking at as a result. (While this *may* be good it may also be unfortunate or impractical.) The contractor rip-offs are a sign of the times and illustrate the lack of biz ethics and integrity from my perspective. Many (but not all) developers promise people the World to get the cash rolling on a new project, only to change the rules once they get your money and get other people to start building. An honest developer would have given you the REAL option list up front without question. If he doesn’t know what the prices are then he’s NOT prepared to offer the houses for sale until a later date. End of discussion. Bottom line, if you’re good at negotiations you might try to negotiate the price on options. From my experience in the last couple years, this is futile as housing starts are at a feverish pace. Unless the dollar amount is large (which it sounds like the fireplace price actually IS: $3200 vs. $7100) you are probably wasting your money to hire an attorney unless you are already paying one for consultation and/or the house closing. I think you’ve been had, and will need to decide how badly you want to be swindled… After the local scumtractor raised the price on my house $9K, with no changes in specifications, I collected my down payment money and walked. That option may not be viable for you depending on how far along you are in the swindle… I mean *house building* process. BTW, for the few good, honest, ethical builders/contractors online that have their act together, my comments are NOT directed at you. I’ve probably spoken to most of you at one time or another over the past year or two concerning the above and other house construction issues. Please do not be offended by my comments which in my experience represent the "state of the industry"  both in personal experience and as reported by numerous consumer protection agencies. With mortgage rates low and new housing demand so high, there’s bound to be more scams everyday… :>((( Regards, Randy > I am curious what the readers of this newsgroup would recommend doing to > resolve the following situation. > In February we signed a contract for a house to be built by D.R. > Horton.  We were one of the first to sign up at this location, and did > so because there was a lot that we were anxious to obtain.   If we > didn’t get that lot, we probably wouldn’t be as interested in the > location.

BIG SNIP

Response:

this sound like you are buying a pig in a poke .   let me ask you one thing, would you buy a car with out knowing what was on it.  like tires, head lites, front seat, and other items that you might want to have on the car. this is what you are saying here. you need to stop where you are and say we are going to re look at the whole deal. now for me to give you the o.k. to start on a house i will have to know all the details and where the house will be at and all question answered.  if you can’t do this build the house and i will look at it and tell you if i want it or not. the part of what you have signed up for alread.  you need to see a lawyer and get his ideal on how to clear it up.  i feel sure if the builder trys to still keep you to the agreement they will lose.  i have my lawyer who will run the the results of the trial in the newspaper and run the results of the out come in the newspaper but take out a full page in the paper.  most trial don’t get to the newspaper for it is bad advertisement being talked about to the public.  have him make them spell out what you are getting and see if it is to your liking. stop saying or do anything till you get legal advice. then go on that word. this case is becoming what you said about the bait and switch con.  you are suppose to be buying a home to live in it for life and it should be right. you may not live there for life but you may do so. just a thought from TURTLE

+AD4-I am curious what the readers of this newsgroup would recommend doing to +AD4-resolve the following situation. +AD4- +AD4-In February we signed a contract for a house to be built by D.R. +AD4-Horton.  We were one of the first to sign up at this location, and did +AD4-so because there was a lot that we were anxious to obtain.   If we +AD4-didn’t get that lot, we probably wouldn’t be as interested in the +AD4-location. +AD4- +AD4-We were given a nice sales incentive as one of the first to sign up +AD4-(which we later hear is what they are still offerring new people), but +AD4-at the time we were nervous because all they could give us was a price +AD4-on the basic house, lot, and elevations, but did not have an option +AD4-list.  We knew that we would be getting fairly heavily into options, so +AD4-this was important to us. +AD4- +AD4-We were given the  price list for options that another D.R. Horton +AD4-development was using.  This development was farther along than the one +AD4-we are buying in, so they had their stuff together.  We were initially +AD4-told that this was not the actual price list, and then later were told +AD4-that it was the price list, but that some things would be upgraded one +AD4-level for no cost (we are buying in an area where the houses are almost +AD4-twice what the farther out development goes for on almost the identical +AD4-houses – location, location, location). +AD4- +AD4-Although we now had a price list, we were not guaranteed that the same +AD4-materials would be used.  For example, things like Corian was obviously +AD4-going to be the same, but there was no guarantee that the standard, or +AD4-various upgrade levels of tile, or carpeting would be the same.  They +AD4-were still negotiating with their suppliers we were told.  The materials +AD4-we would get would be of equal or greater quality. +AD4- +AD4-We went in yesterday to do our +ACI-release 2+ACI- where we pick out various +AD4-colors and options.  We were shocked to find out that the price of the +AD4-fireplace had increased from about +ACQ-3200 to about +ACQ-7100+ACE- The story we +AD4-were given is that in the other development, a fireplace was standard, +AD4-and that in ours, it was not.  The price list did not reflect this. +AD4-They also mentioned that in our development, the central air was +AD4-standard, and in the others it was an option.  The price list she was +AD4-working off of was the same as ours, except things like the AC that was +AD4-standard at ours was struck through, and the fireplace was updated with +AD4-the higher prices (it was whited out and written over). +AD4- +AD4-We still do not have a good idea of what the quality of things like the +AD4-carpeting is, and of course, are wondering if there will be further +AD4-surprises. We have been told that some prices, such as one of the +AD4-hardwood floor options, has actually gone down. +AD4- +AD4-I read through the contract and other paperwork we have, and no where +AD4-does it say that the price list that we have is the one we are working +AD4-off of.  In fact, it has some clause about no other agreements, oral or +AD4-implied are part of the agreement (typical legal CYA). +AD4- +AD4-How should we handle this? +AD4- +AD4-Should we demand that they honor their price list, and risk them holding +AD4-us to other prices that might go down (probalby not highly likely to +AD4-happen). +AD4- +AD4-Should we write a letter to their corporate office? +AD4- +AD4-Should we get our lawyer involved? +AD4- +AD4-Should we just chalk it up to experience? +AD4- +AD4-Any thoughts? +AD4-

Response:

Question:

Hi, I am a first-time home buyer and would love to get advise from somebody who is familiar wiht mortgage rates. I am trying to get an approval for a home loan, and today I had my first meeting with a financial adviser at some real estate agency. At the end of that meeting I was offered a loan on the following conditions: Purchase price:     $350,000.00 Down payment:       $ 70,000.00 Interest Rate:           7.375% Loan Origination Fee:    1.000% Term of Loan:            30 Yrs Can anybody tell me if the offer is good or not? Having seen mortgage rates  close to 6% in newspaper ads, 7.375% do not look very attractive to me. I would be glad to hear any comments or suggestions. Thank you in advance, Sergey

Response:

>Purchase price:     $350,000.00 >Down payment:       $ 70,000.00 >Interest Rate:           7.375% >Loan Origination Fee:    1.000% >Term of Loan:            30 Yrs >Can anybody tell me if the offer is good or not? Having seen mortgage >rates  close to 6% in newspaper ads, 7.375% do not look very attractive >to me. I would be glad to hear any comments or suggestions.

1) Shop around 2) Get personal references for mortgage brokers from people whose judgment you trust.  Many of the rates you see boldly splashed in newspapers are bait-and-switch, you will find that somehow, you won’t be able to get that kind of rate when you actually go to lock (watch the yield on the 10 and 30 year bond, mortgage rates should rise and fall with those yields fairly closely—in other words, if you get a rate quote of 6%, and bond yields rise by .5% by the time you go to lock you can expect an equivalent mortgage rate of 6.5% +- .125%). Oftentimes the best and most ethical mortgage brokers don’t have big splash ads, because they have as much business as they can handle in satisfied repeat customers and word-of-mouth business. 3) The amount of your loan would be $280,000, in mortgage speak, this would be a "jumbo" loan, and rates for these are higher.  A creative mortgage broker might be able to structure you into two loans, each in the non-jumbo category, to save money.  I stress "might" because the second mortgage that carries the loan over the jumbo limit will have a higher interest rate, so it depends on what that difference is and how big the second loan is. 4) I believe rates have gone up a bit recently.  Admittedly, I stopped tracking these things once we locked and didn’t have to worry about rates going up on us anymore.  But I noticed on the news one night that the long bond yield was up a good .25% from where we locked, and the outlook then was that rates would go higher.  We locked at 6.625% with 2.25% points (figure .125% higher rate for each .5% origination fee point you knock off, that would be close to 7% at 1%), figure the difference for a jumbo, and the fact that rates have gone up lately and 7.375% with 1% point is in the ballpark.  But: 5) Shop around!

Response:

>3) The amount of your loan would be $280,000, in mortgage speak, this >would be a "jumbo" loan, and rates for these are higher.  A creative >mortgage broker might be able to structure you into two loans, each >in the non-jumbo category, to save money.  I stress "might" because >the second mortgage that carries the loan over the jumbo limit will >have a higher interest rate, so it depends on what that difference is >and how big the second loan is.

I’m going thru this process right now with Norwest.  The first loan is for 227,150 (the limit before it becomes jumbo) and the second is for the remainder, with a total loan limit of 90%.  So I only have to have 10% down, but the 2nd mortgage is at a 2.5% premium…  Ouch!  So I’ll be paying that one off ASAP!  I figure that will save money over keeping a jumbo forever… sdb — Do NOT send me unsolicited commercial e-mail (UCE)! Watch out for munged e-mail address. User should be sylvan and host is cyberhighway.net.

Response:

That rate looks about 1/4 percent too high.  However, if you have any "spots" on your credit record, or your income comes from a source which most lenders don’t like (such as self-employment), then that rate would be more reasonable. Many mortgage brokers can get large fees (several thousand dollars) from loan companies if they can get customers to sign up for a mortgage at slightly above market rates. That is why it pays to shop around. Some ways of shopping: – Check out a web site which shows current rates, such as http://biz.yahoo.com/b/r/m.html – Go to the library and look at the business and real estate   sections of your local newspaper for the past week.  Most   papers publish comparitive listings of mortgage lenders. – Sit down for an afternoon with the yellow pages (under   mortgages) and your telephone.  Make a lot of calls and   be sure to ask each lender the rate, the points, and   any and all other fees. PS:  Rates have risen slightly over the last couple of weeks,      and I think that the 6% figures I have seen were for      short term loans (not 30 year loans). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Interest Rate:           7.375% > Loan Origination Fee:    1.000% > Term of Loan:            30 Yrs > Can anybody tell me if the offer is good or not? Having seen mortgage > rates  close to 6% in newspaper ads, 7.375% do not look very attractive > to me. I would be glad to hear any comments or suggestions. > Thank you in advance, > Sergey

Response:

> Many mortgage brokers can get large fees (several thousand > dollars) from loan companies if they can get customers to > sign up for a mortgage at slightly above market rates. > That is why it pays to shop around.

SRPs ( the fees you speak of) are paid or not depending on the rate. For a rate where the  end invester is paying an SRP, that means the borrower isn’t charged points, whereas for a rate where the is no SRP or where even the broker is charged points, then those points are passed on to the boorrower. So what it comes down to is someone is paying the fees (points). > Some ways of shopping: > – Check out a web site which shows current rates, such as > http://biz.yahoo.com/b/r/m.html or www.interest.com > – Go to the library and look at the business and real estate >   sections of your local newspaper for the past week.  Most >   papers publish comparitive listings of mortgage lenders.

Usually about a week old. > – Sit down for an afternoon with the yellow pages (under >   mortgages) and your telephone.  Make a lot of calls and >   be sure to ask each lender the rate, the points, and >   any and all other fees.

don’t forget to ask if they can get the loan to closing. It will help to have your Beacon score handy. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> PS:  Rates have risen slightly over the last couple of weeks, >      and I think that the 6% figures I have seen were for >      short term loans (not 30 year loans). > Interest Rate:           7.375% > Loan Origination Fee:    1.000% > Term of Loan:            30 Yrs > Can anybody tell me if the offer is good or not? Having seen mortgage > rates  close to 6% in newspaper ads, 7.375% do not look very attractive > to me. I would be glad to hear any comments or suggestions. >rates were never down to 6% with no discount points. > Thank you in advance, > Sergey

– Timothy Sutherland / Allied Bancshares Mortgage Group   serving Maryland, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Virginia, West Va., DC & NC all types of credit and cash situations.  FHA/VA/Conventional

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Many mortgage brokers can get large fees (several thousand > dollars) from loan companies if they can get customers to > sign up for a mortgage at slightly above market rates. > That is why it pays to shop around. > SRPs ( the fees you speak of) are paid or not depending on the rate. For > a rate where the  end invester is paying an SRP, that means the borrower > isn’t charged points, whereas for a rate where the is no SRP or where > even the broker is charged points, then those points are passed on to > the boorrower. So what it comes down to is someone is paying the fees > (points).

What I am refering to is the practice that some lenders have of paying a mortgage broker a higher fee if the borrower signs up for a higher rate than they would have otherwise have gotten.   This has been a problem with some mortage brokers.  It is commonly refered to in the industry as a "yield spread premium".  Abuses of this have even resulted in proposed federal regulations. For more information, see the federal deposit insurance corp website at: http://www.fdic.gov/banknews/fils/1997/fl97116a.txt Like you, I also think mortgage brokers are, in general, a good source of financing.  However, it is still wise to shop around and double check so that your mortgage broker gives you the best rate. Gary

Response:

Question:

|       I must be missing something here.  If one is in the rental business, |then I can’t see how interest is a tax deduction.  It’s a business expense. Yes you are missing something. You are assuming that all business expenses are automatically also tax deductions. They are not. Check the tax codes. There are many things that businesses spend money on that they are not allowed to deduct. This list grows every year. — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

: |     I must be missing something here.  If one is in the rental business, : |then I can’t see how interest is a tax deduction.  It’s a business expense. : Yes you are missing something. You are assuming that all business expenses : are automatically also tax deductions. They are not. Businesses pay federal income tax on profits.  Business expenses reduce profit and therefore tax burden. Interest is a business expense.  It has the effect of reducing profit and hence taxes. — Lee Devlin              | HP Little Falls Site  | phone: (302) 633-8697                         | 2850 Centerville Rd.  | email:

Response:

|: |    I must be missing something here.  If one is in the rental business, |: |then I can’t see how interest is a tax deduction.  It’s a business expense. |: Yes you are missing something. You are assuming that all business expenses |: are automatically also tax deductions. They are not. |Businesses pay federal income tax on profits.  Business expenses reduce |profit and therefore tax burden. |Interest is a business expense.  It has the effect of reducing profit |and hence taxes. If the IRS declares that mortgage payments are no longer a legitimate deduction, then they can no longer be used to reduce net income for tax purposes. Not all expenses are deductions. — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

>Now the real question which you so adroitly avoided is if the landlord is >no longer able to deduct interest payments, in your example $600/month, >his monthly expenses will go up, in your example by $90/month. >What will this additional expense cause the landlord to do? >If you answer, he will raise your rent by $90/month, than you get an >A in economics.

No, only a B, since the landlord still has to compete with home ownership he will not be able to recover the full $90.  He may decide, instead, to turn the building into a parking garage. Or sell it as Condos, or let it go to seed.  In other words, he may *share* the hit, or he may make some totally different move with his assets. – - Michael Michael S. Alexander (A.K.A.) Rednaxela (612) 296-2304 (Work) (612) 644-4817 (Home)

Response:

PLEASE take this to talk.econ or somewhere.  It costs me money to download news, and this ain’t interesting. —   Paul Clark of Systems Magic Ltd, Cambridge, England  | +44/0 223 566060 ***   Suggestion for a new ’smiley’:   _||_  (pronounced bow, rhymes cow)   *** ***   = palms together bow = Please accept my opinions, humbly presented.   ***

Response:

>A renter pays more than an owner for the same thing.  You obviously >don’t agree with me because you are the God-of-all-economists.  The fact >is, if landords were taking a loss, they wouldn’t be doing it.  You

>obviously aren’t a very good economist if you are taking a loss with your >rental properties and aren’t doing anything about it.

Ugh. The concept of property squarely targeted to generate a loss (which can be nicely used to offset other income) never occured to you? In the 80’s many people got into these ‘real estate limited partnerships to develop low-income housing’ knowing well in advance they’d get screwed. Don’t know if the tax breaks are still there or if the holes were closed. Spiros — Spiros Triantafyllopoulos                    Kokomo, IN 46904   (317) 451-0815 Delco Electronics/GM Hughes Electronics      [A Different Kind of Disclaimer]

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->    I must be missing something here.  If one is in the rental business, >then I can’t see how interest is a tax deduction.  It’s a business expense. >Thus, in computing the profit from his rental business, the owner would >deduct vaious costs from his revenues to calculate profit.  Among these >costs (various O&M expenditures, for example) would be the interest he >paid on the house itself.  As a result, the owner wouldn’t pay taxes >on the interest any more than he would pay taxes on the office supplies >expense he incurred to run his business.  Still, this would not constitute >a "tax deduction" for interest.  In order for this owner to lose interest >as a "tax deduction", the IRS would have to conclude that interest was >no longer a legitimate business expense, something that america’s business >community would fight against vigorously–and properly, I might add. >So, how do we propose that landlords "lose their interest tax deduction" >when they don’t really have a "deduction" in the first place.  We’re thinking >like home owning, individual taxpayers here, not like businessmen.  Let’s >get our logic sorted out…or have I missed something.

You missed something.  Business expenses ARE tax deductions in the same fashion that mortgage interest payments are "business deductions" to the individual who is engaged in the "business" of living. In both cases, the expenses offset income in computing the taxable net. In both cases the government specifies what is and is not deductable. For the individual, mortgage interest is, credit card interest isn’t. For the business, mortgage interest is, part of entertainment expenses are not.  It’s all the same game and that is, which special interest has enough congressional suction to protect its underbelly.  Homeowners do; evil assault, baby-killing businesssmen don’t, for the most part. John — Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion Happiness is Clinton’s picture on the side of a milk carton.

Response:

|> >>>Tell me Eric, are you honestly trying to claim that if the landlord were |> >>>not able to deduct his interest payments, than he would not raise your rent. |> >>>And you want anyone else to take you seriously. |> >         I must be missing something here.  If one is in the rental business, then I can’t see how interest is a tax deduction.  It’s a business expense. Thus, in computing the profit from his rental business, the owner would deduct vaious costs from his revenues to calculate profit.  Among these costs (various O&M expenditures, for example) would be the interest he paid on the house itself.  As a result, the owner wouldn’t pay taxes on the interest any more than he would pay taxes on the office supplies expense he incurred to run his business.  Still, this would not constitute a "tax deduction" for interest.  In order for this owner to lose interest as a "tax deduction", the IRS would have to conclude that interest was no longer a legitimate business expense, something that america’s business community would fight against vigorously–and properly, I might add. So, how do we propose that landlords "lose their interest tax deduction" when they don’t really have a "deduction" in the first place.  We’re thinking like home owning, individual taxpayers here, not like businessmen.  Let’s get our logic sorted out…or have I missed something. Francis Ferguson

Response:

|:Now the real question which you so adroitly avoided is if the landlord is |:no longer able to deduct interest payments, in your example $600/month, |:his monthly expenses will go up, in your example by $90/month. |:What will this additional expense cause the landlord to do? |: |:If you answer, he will raise your rent by $90/month, than you get an |:A in economics. | |You don’t know what the hell you are talking about. Pardon my french, but I do so know what I am talking about. |In essense, the landlord runs a business.  He only gets taxed on business |profits, so of course he gets to deduct all of his expenses.   NO he doesn’t, he only gets to deduct what the IRS says he can deduct. In no way shape or form does this include all expenses. |So he |deducts the mortgage interest, as well as the mortgage principal, |because it is a business expense.  Now lets assume there was no mortgage |interest deduction.  He still will deduct the mortgage interest and all |other expenses because it is a business and he is only taxed on profits. Excuse me, but your statement is internally inconsistant. If the IRS says that the business man cannot deduct mortgage interest, than he can’t deduct mortgage interest, period. Your confusion rests on the definition of profit. Now the average person considers profit to be the differences between income and expenses. But the IRS on the other hand considers profit to be the difference between non-exempt income and allowable deductions. Because of this it is possible to have income, yet owe no taxes (non-taxable bonds for instance). It is also possible to loose money, yet still owe taxes. |To say that he wouldn’t be able to deduct this without the mortgage |interest deduction is like saying that a manufacturing business couldn’t |deduct the cost of their factory from their gross income. If the IRS says that you can’t deduct the cost of the factory, than you can’t. Remember, they’re the government, they don’t have to make sense. |You’re now going to say "see, renters are getting a better deal". I already have. Everyplace I have ever lived. The cost of renting has always been below the cost of owning. |That’s is BS.  Look at the figures in my previous post.  The fact remains |if a house is "worth" a $1000 a month, the owner will pay $1000 and |deduct the interest. The landlord pays a $1000 mortgage and deducts all of it |as business expenses and rents it for $1000 (thereby making no profits). Except as has been pointed out, the landlord cannot deduct principal. If you know of any landlords who are doing this, would you please send me their names and addresses. The IRS’s whistleblower reward would come in handy right about now. |The renter pays $1000, to cover the landlords cost’s, but gets to deduct |nothing. The owner will always pay less in taxes than the landlord/renter, |because the landlord is a middle-man.  The more middle-men, the more |taxes paid. Sometimes yes, sometimes no. |It is a very simple principle.   Unfortunately it has been simplified beyond recognition. |The IRS taxes a transaction. No, the IRS taxes income, and sometimes property. |A landowner pays taxes when a mining company buys their land, Only if he sells it for more than he bought it. If he sells it for the same amount there is no tax. If he sells for a lose, he has a capital loss that can be applied to offset other capital gains. |who then pays taxes when a steel manufacturer buys their ore, The entity that saw the capital gain. |who then pays taxes when an auto manufacturer buys their steel, The entity that saw the capital gain. |who then pays taxes when a consumer buys their car.   The entity that saw the capital gain. |The consumer already paid taxes on their income, and their |company paid taxes for …   Ultimately it is the consumer that pays all of those taxes, because any cost of business will eventually be passed on to the consumer. |A home owner buys a house; 1 transaction.  A |landlord buys a house and then rents it out; 2 transactions. Except as has been pointed out. The IRS does not tax transactions. |If you can’t see this and do the simple math, you need to take a basic |math course as well as getting a trade-in on your brain. I have done the math. Your model is faulty because it does not reflect reality. |The mortgage interest deduction is the biggest subsidy |in this country.  I’m sick of all the middle-class bellyaching about |taxes and the government because they get the biggest "welfare" of all. I’m sick and tired of whining crybabies who think that allowing people to keep some of the money that they earn, constitutes welfare. — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

>:I don’t get to deduct my home office. >Some home offices are deductable is you are really running a >business from there, and that is all that it is used for.  

You obviously havn’t got a clue.  Yeah, you can ‘deduct’ it.  It will also GUARANTEE you an audit if you do.  You will then spend far more cash money defending your ‘right’ than the deduction could ever be worth.  My CPA, who will represent me in any audit and assures that everything I do is legitimate, has advised me not to bother with the home office deduction since the IRS has DECIDED they DON’T LIKE IT and are TARGETING ALL OF THEM.  The law is not nearly as important as what the IRS does and does not like.  It is a rational business decision to roll over and play dead, give the robbers what they want, and not take the legal, but stupid if you take it, deduction.  This is called extortion, unless done by the government, then it is called ’selective enforcement’. >You probably use it to watch TV because you can’t agree with your >wife on a TV program.  

It is a very poor debate tactic to assert that which you can not know. The home office we have contains the business licence for ‘The TypeSmith’ (my Wife’s home business), 3 four drawer file cabinets full of business filing, the business computers, the business phone line, two desks full only of business materials, and a stack of storage boxes filled with business stuff, one set of shelving, and a couple of (non-deducted) pictures on the wall. We watch TV in the living room.  If the kids don’t agree with the wife and me, we move to the master bedroom where we watch the OTHER color TV.  If my wife doesn’t agree with me (and the kids have taken the living room) I use my personal portable color TV.  If all four of us want to watch something different, one of the kids gets to either watch the B&W tv in their room, or we run one of the 4 VCRs as a tuner and drive their color monitor for THEIR computer as a tv in their room.  Yes, we have 4 people, 4 VCRs, 4 PERSONAL computers, and 2 BUSINESS computers.  There is NO recreation of any kind nor any kind of non-business activity done in the business office. IF the IRS ever audits me, then I’m going to be positioned to drag that office deduction out of the back pocket and use it as a counter point to whatever they dream up… I want it to be a squeaky clean record at that point. >It would probably flag an audit because most people >who try an claim a home office don’t really use it as an office.

It DOES flag an audit because the IRS wanted more money and it is easier to target a legitimate deduction and harrass folks into dropping it out of fear than it is to change the law.  You will learn about this if you ever earn any money. >:I don’t get to deduct any old business >:lunch either, and only 1/2 of the ones the IRS decides I really needed >:to conduct. >You would eat lunch anyway so why should you be able to deduct it.  I

YOU were the one who asserted that any ‘business expense’ was a deductable item, not me.  If I take a client to lunch to try to convince them to buy, that is far more costly to me than the salami sandwich presently sitting in my paper sack on my desk.  It IS a ‘business expense’, just not a deductable one (as you asserted they all were…) >remember my dad taking us out to lunch and deducting it as a business >lunch.  The fact is *maybe*, at the most, half of the "business" lunches >really are.

So, your dad commits fraud therefor all other folks should be shot. Great logic. >:the principal was NOT deductable >my mistake, I was thinking of the deductable depreciation. >:If the ‘mortgage interest deduction’ is GONE, it is GONE. >:You don’t get to magically just roll it back in again as a ‘business >:deduction’ >Yes and no.  The "mortgage interest deduction" referred to is for >personal residences, not rental properties.  I believe they are >different deductions in the tax code.  I’m not positive, but >isn’t any interest a business pays deductable?  If this is true, >the mortgage interest for a rental property isn’t deducted because >it’s mortgage interest, but rather because it is interest (of any type).

If the law is changed to say mortgage interest is not deductable, and a business tries to hide this as ‘other interest charges’ that business will be taking a quick trip to the IRS Auditor and the owners will be rapidly emptying their bank accounts.  The way tax law works is NOT as you have surmised.  The IRS says "THIS IS NOT OK" and any attempt to hide it under another heading gets you busted. >A renter pays more than an owner for the same thing.  You obviously >don’t agree with me because you are the God-of-all-economists.  

No, I don’t agree with you because you are a clueless twit.  I’m only a BA in Econ, there are many many far better than I at Econ.  You are not one of them. >The fact >is, if landords were taking a loss, they wouldn’t be doing it.  

Never been in business have you?  Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, sometimes you break even.  You HOPE that on AVERAGE you win.  IF you are losing at the moment, you look for ways to ‘cut your losses’, which MAY only be reducing them to a smaller loss. If you choices are A)  lose $300/mo to taxes.  B) lose $100 mo cash flow but hope to get it back in 10 years as capital gains.  C)  lose $20,000 NOW as a capital loss from sale of property.  THEN the most reasonable choice is B.   The tax code puts a large number of folks in group A.  Some of them opt for option B when real estate looks like a good investment.  Then the IRS changes the rules and/or the economy heads for the toilet for a couple of years and option C pops up while the odds of captial gains on the property head toward zero…  Some clueless folks take option C at that point (The Gov’t did this Big Time with the Resolution Trust Corporation on all our behalfs wasting our tax dollars…) and lose a bundle.  Then the cycle repeats.   If you are very good at it, you can play these cycles so that you net win.  I’m winning, but not as much as you assert landlords do and not for the reasons you assert. >You obviously aren’t a very good economist if you are taking a >loss with your rental properties and aren’t doing anything about it.

First off, I inherited them.  One unfortunately does not get to choose the time of their parents passing and has limited control over the form of the assets inherited. Second off, I am not taking a loss (largely due to the fact that they were inherited). My tax bracket is high enough that they are, after the DEPRECIATION deduction, still a small advantage.  No, I won’t go into all the detail here, but there is a substantial tax advantage to inheriting real estate rather than cash.  Ask your CPA about how ‘cost basis’ is handled in an estate sale. Lastly, I’ve looked at the economics of CONVERTING MY PRESENT HOME to a rental and they ARE BAD so I havn’t done it.   You’ve made several dumb presumptions here.  You’ve presumed to know my personal economics (which you don’t).  You’ve presumed to know my future plans (‘not doing anything’) which you don’t.  You’ve presumed that an economic analysis of a proposed business activity is the same as having entered into it (I’ve chosen NOT to do the conversion because it WOULD BE a loss).  Sheesh. Taking to you is a waste of space. >:Anyone who believes that it is a ’subsidy’ >:to have some part of their income sheltered from legal government theft >:is a suitable object of pity. >It is a subsidy if you get it and someone else doesn’t because they don’t >own a house.

I pity you. >:This has all gone far afield of energy, and I, for one, am posting no >:more in response to this thread.  

Guess I was wrong… this time for sure… ;-) >:Further followup should go to one of the tax or econ groups >:How’s that old saying go?  "God help me to save the world while I still >:know it all and before I turn 20 and become as stupid as my parents." >first of all, I’m older than 20, 25 actually.  

Gosh!  All of 25(!).  What great wisdom and vast business experience you must have.  Undoubtedly you have had far more interactions with the IRS than either Johh or I have had, and must have run far more businesses than the mear 1/2 dozen or so we’ve run, and have a much much better grasp of the realities of commerce. >:A 2000 sq ft house in this area will get 600-1000 dollars a month.(rent) >:At 6.5% interest for 20 years, the payment is $745.57 (mortgage)

Gads man, how do you get a 6.5% loan on a rental property?  Out here we’re only getting 7 1/2 on owner occupied!  Have you allowed for the down payment ‘cost of money’ in the mortage figures?  (I’ll look for the original article and see what you did.) >I imagine the rent is closer to the $1000 figure if it is a $100k home. >Sounds like the renter is paying more, huh? >:My profit before taxes is 2400 – 853 = $1547. >Sounds like the renter is getting screwed, like I’ve said all along.

Maybe, John is more heartless than I am ;-) >And E.M. Smith is trying to tell me that he is losing money.  

No, I have never made that assertion.  I’ve asserted that I’m not raking it in … and that competitive market pressures make the rental rate less than the cost of the mortgage resulting in a negative cash flow for any property bought at 100% leverage. i.e. that the mortgage interest deduction is shared with the renter. >He definitely needs to consult an economist.

One consults an economist for insight into the actions of the Fed, interest rate projections, and sometimes microeconomic modeling. One consults a real estate property management company for advice on real estate.  I have one ‘on retainer’ should I need them. (My old college roomie.  I got him started in Real Estate by showing him what my Dad was doing.  Dad, BTW, was a

… read more »

Response:

:I don’t get to deduct my home office. Some home offices are deductable is you are really running a business from there, and that is all that it is used for.  You probably use it to watch TV because you can’t agree with your wife on a TV program.  It would probably flag an audit because most people who try an claim a home office don’t really use it as an office. :I don’t get to deduct any old business :lunch either, and only 1/2 of the ones the IRS decides I really needed :to conduct. You would eat lunch anyway so why should you be able to deduct it.  I remember my dad taking us out to lunch and deducting it as a business lunch.  The fact is *maybe*, at the most, half of the "business" lunches really are. :the principal was NOT deductable my mistake, I was thinking of the deductable depreciation. :If the ‘mortgage interest deduction’ is GONE, it is GONE. :You don’t get to magically just roll it back in again as a ‘business :deduction’ Yes and no.  The "mortgage interest deduction" referred to is for personal residences, not rental properties.  I believe they are different deductions in the tax code.  I’m not positive, but isn’t any interest a business pays deductable?  If this is true, the mortgage interest for a rental property isn’t deducted because it’s mortgage interest, but rather because it is interest (of any type). A renter pays more than an owner for the same thing.  You obviously don’t agree with me because you are the God-of-all-economists.  The fact is, if landords were taking a loss, they wouldn’t be doing it.  You obviously aren’t a very good economist if you are taking a loss with your rental properties and aren’t doing anything about it. :Anyone who believes that it is a ’subsidy’ :to have some part of their income sheltered from legal government theft :is a suitable object of pity. It is a subsidy if you get it and someone else doesn’t because they don’t own a house. :This has all gone far afield of energy, and I, for one, am posting no :more in response to this thread.  Further follup should go to one :o f the tax or econ groups Good, because I like to have the last word. :How’s that old saying go?  "God help me to save the world while I still :know it all and before I turn 20 and become as stupid as my parents." first of all, I’m older than 20, 25 actually.   Second, I remember the saying as "… as closed-minded as my parents"   Maybe you should remember that since it has probably been a long time since you were 20, and so your kids don’t think your so old and such an embarrassment to show to their friends. :A 2000 sq ft house in this area will get 600-1000 dollars a month.(rent) :At 6.5% interest for 20 years, the payment is $745.57 (mortgage) I imagine the rent is closer to the $1000 figure if it is a $100k home. Sounds like the renter is paying more, huh? :My profit before taxes is 2400 – 853 = $1547. Sounds like the renter is getting screwed, like I’ve said all along. And E.M. Smith is trying to tell me that he is losing money.  He definitely needs to consult an economist. Eric

Response:

|The fact of the matter remains, the IRS gets more in a landlord/renter |relationship than from a homeowner.  The landlord obviously isn’t going |to eat this, so the renter pays. In your absurdly simplified model maybe. But how about reconciling your model to the real world. I notice you wtill haven’t answered my questions about your model. |:but realize that those who DO still rent WILL pay more.  Period. |Haven’t I been saying this all along? Nice of you to pull a line out of context. The statement that you have quoted was in reference to the deductability of mortgages being removed from landlords. In which case they, and therefore their tenants would pay more. Your original objection was to the claim that renters benefited from landlords being able to deduct their mortgage interest. Would you care to get back to that question? — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

>You have created some nice little FICTIONAL scenarios to demonstrate >the way you WISH THE WORLD WORKED, but it just isn’t that way. >If you wish to ignore the real world experience of those of us who >own properties and manage them and pay the bills and do the spread >sheets WITH OUR REAL DOLLARS, that is fine.  I will enjoy watching >the naivete…

And selling one of your money-pits to him or someone like him. That’s what I love about the naive – they rescue the market for otherwise unsellable properties. >Before you two closed-minded individuals go and insult my schooling >and my economics teacher, I suggest that you *think* first.  This is >so typical of all your posts.  All talk and no brains.

How’s that old saying go?  "God help me to save the world while I still know it all and before I turn 20 and become as stupid as my parents." >Put me in with them, then.  I’m not closed-minded, but let me tell you, >every year I pay a CPA several hundred dollars to prepare my taxes, >every year I look at the spread sheets on my rentals, >every year I think I should dump them because it’s a losing deal… >I keep them largely because one of them was ‘the family home’ when >I was growing up and I’m nostalgic about it.  The other was the >first rental home my DAD bought (back when you could make money >at it) and I’ve got an attachment to it, too… >I am a trained Economist.  I am a manager who does budgets and >discounted cash flows, and depreciation schedules on a daily basis. >I am a property owner who runs rentals.  It’s MY MONEY on the line. >The last round of tax changes made rental property less ‘attractive’.

Yup.  I’m not an economist but it doesn’t take one to do the math. Single family dwellings are money-pits.  Most are rentals for the same reasons yours are and those reasons have nothing to do with profits.  People rent houses because they are having trouble selling them or they inherited them or whatnot.   The calculation is easy, even for the highly educated student. A 2000 sq ft house in this area will get 600-1000 dollars a month. Let’s say $1000.  Now take that 2000 sq ft and split it between 4 500 sq ft efficiency apartments.  Each will bring in $500-600 a month.  That’s $2000-2400 a month, well over twice what the single family house brings.  A 2000 sq ft house around here will bring $80-100,000.  Let’s say $100,000.  At 6.5% interest for 20 years, the payment is $745.57.  I may or may not turn a profit, depending on the local market.  Probably not.  The 4 unit efficiency, on the other hand, will turn a profit.  Residential rental property right now sells for about $55 a sq ft in this area.  That’s $110,000.  At 7% (about the going rate for commercial money), the payment for 20 years is $852.85, assuming 100% financing (possible for commercial). My profit before taxes is 2400 – 853 = $1547.  Not only do I make a hansom profit BEFORE taxes, I spread my risk.  If my house renter fails to pay the rent, I’m out the whole kilobuck.  However, if one of my efficiency renters fails to pay the rent, I still make a PROFIT.  This is why I wouldn’t touch a rental house. There are several factors at work here that our esteemed student’s profs who do his thinking for him probably have not realized, being perched in the towers of ivory as they are.  One is that fact that middle class people have an expectation of what they must pay for housing.  That causes the range of rents to compress.  Another factor is direct government subsidy.  For the kind of rental property I’m interested in, the tenants are almost always government-subsidized in some manner or the other.  That means more money available to me.  There is no direct subsidy for those who rent a 2000 sq ft single family house. >Eric (chemist-turned-part-time-tax-hobbiest) Snyder >Go back to chemistry, it suits your talents better.

Good advice. John — Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion Happiness is Clinton’s picture on the side of a milk carton.

Response:

>:Now the real question which you so adroitly avoided is if the landlord is >:no longer able to deduct interest payments, in your example $600/month, >:his monthly expenses will go up, in your example by $90/month. >:What will this additional expense cause the landlord to do? >: >:If you answer, he will raise your rent by $90/month, than you get an >:A in economics. >You don’t know what the hell you are talking about.

Yes, he does.  If costs go up, prices go up.  Either as a direct consequence of the owners increasing rents to cover new costs, or as an indirect result of owners/properties leaving the market due to lack of incentive to stay (i.e. loosing $90/month makes it much easier to decide to sell the house…). >In essense, the landlord runs a business.  He only gets taxed on business >profits, so of course he gets to deduct all of his expenses.  

Where to begin, where to begin…  Never owned a business, eh? First mistake:  "only gets taxed on business profits".  The business gets taxed FOR EXISTING.  Business licence or corporation fees. It pays sales taxes on anything it CONSUMES.  It pays property taxes for anything it OWNS (real estate taxes or ‘personal property taxes’ for other assets, including vehicle registrations). And if it employs anyone it also gets to pay a vast and growing variety of EMPLOYEMENT TAXES (Social Security match, SDI, soon to include medical, etc.).  Oh, and it gets to pay a variety of other ‘TRANSACTION TAXES’ for things like capitol gains on any asset sold or ‘property transfer fees’, etc. Second mistake:  "gets to deduct all of his expenses".  Big WRONGO! I don’t get to deduct my home office.  Yeah, I OUGHT to be able to, but if I do the IRS will make sure to audit me more than enough times to convince me not too.  I don’t get to deduct any old business lunch either, and only 1/2 of the ones the IRS decides I really needed to conduct.  There are other things, but I’ve lost track of them all. The business only gets to deducts a subset of expenses and only those that the IRS had positivly affirmed are deductable and only if they are not on a current list of ‘hot topics’ that the IRS wants to discourage this week (like home offices). Now, IFF there is some small profit left over AFTER all the other taxes and expenses (that the IRS deemed legitimate to ‘deduct’) are coveredd, THEN you get to give a chunk of THAT to the {Feds, State, City, etc.).  If, by some miracle, a smidgion is left for you, well, don’t worry, that gets added to your individual income for further taxation … (depending on form of business ownership, proprietorship, Sub-S, Inc.). >So he >deducts the mortgage interest, as well as the mortgage principal,

Last time I looked, the pricipal was NOT deductable.  I pay a CPA to track this stuff now, so it may have changed, but I’ve never ever heard of a pricipal payment being deductable… >because it is a business expense.  Now lets assume there was no mortgage >interest deduction.  He still will deduct the mortgage interest and all >other expenses because it is a business and he is only taxed on profits.

BZZZZT.  WRONGO!  If the ‘mortgage interest deduction’ is GONE, it is GONE. You don’t get to magically just roll it back in again as a ‘business deduction’.  It either is or is not deductable.  If it is gone, it is gone. THERE IS NOT BLANKET DEDUCTION FOR "Business expenses".  There are only specifically approved deductions, one of which is the mortgage interest deduction. Now, if you wanted to eliminate the mortage interest deduction for individuals, yet keep it for businesses, then everyone will just form a Home, Inc. operation and rent their home from themselves (or their neighbor, if self renting is forbidden). >To say that he wouldn’t be able to deduct this without the mortgage >interest deduction is like saying that a manufacturing business couldn’t >deduct the cost of their factory from their gross income.

Well, they can’t.  They have to AMORTIZE it.  I buy a factory today for $1M, I don’t get to deduct $1M from my income this year.  I get to deduct $1M/(years in rate schedule.  18? 27?) this year.  Maybe less if they decide I didn’t jump through the right hoops. >You’re now going to say "see, renters are getting a better deal".

See, renters are getting a better deal. (Wanted to let you be right on something ;-) >That’s is BS.  Look at the figures in my previous post.  The fact remains >if a house is "worth" a $1000 a month,

"worth" to whom?  To the renter, it is ‘worth’ $900/month.  To the homeowner it is worth $1100/month.  To the landlord it is worth about the same, $1100/month. >the owner will pay $1000 and deduct the interest.  

The owner will pay $1100 and net of taxes be at about $900/month. >The landlord pays a $1000 mortgage and deducts all of it >as business expenses and rents it for $1000 (thereby making no profits).

The landlord pays $1100, has about $200 of tax advantage so he can rent it for $900, and takes the ‘depreciation’ as his tax win. >The renter pays $1000, to cover the landlords cost’s, but gets to deduct

Make that $900… and gets the $200 income tax advantage passed on to him.  No, he does not get the ‘depreciation’ advantage. >nothing. The owner will always pay less in taxes than the landlord/renter, >because the landlord is a middle-man.  The more middle-men, the more >taxes paid.

The owner does not get the tax deferral of a depreciation deduction nor is is maintenace cost deductable.  The landlord pays less tax. This advantage is split with the renter as a buy down of rental rates to below purchase mortgage rates. >It is a very simple principle.  

But a wrong one.  The real world is much more complex. >The IRS taxes a transaction.

The IRS taxes some kinds of money flows, called income, that may or may not involve a transaction.  Look at the ‘imputed income’ from holding Zero Coupon Bonds for an example. >A landowner pays taxes when a mining company buys their land,

May, or may not.  Depends on the purchase price relative to sales price (capitol gain/loss) , depreciation taken to date, tax deferred rollover (tax free exchange for like properties), tax bracket of the seller, carry forward of unused capitol losses, etc. etc. etc. >who then pays taxes when a steel manufacturer buys their ore,

Similar list to above, but concentrating on P&L items rather than captal gain/loss items. Are they making a profit on which the IRS levies a tax?  Or are they sheltering the income with a tax loss somewhere?  (Maybe even in a real estate deal that exchanges lower rents to tenants for ‘tax losses’ to offset their ordinary income…) >who then pays taxes when an auto manufacturer buys their steel,

Same list. >who then pays taxes when a consumer buys their car.  

Same list. >The consumer already paid taxes on their income, and their >company paid taxes for …  

Yes, we all have to deal with the IRS.  SO?  Not all transactions generate a tax and not all taxes are from transactions. >A home owner buys a house; 1 transaction.  A >landlord buys a house and then rents it out; 2 transactions.

This gross simplification of reality is about as valuable as saying that "You are alive.  Pigs are alive.  Therefor, you are a pig." >If you can’t see this and do the simple math, you need to take a basic >math course as well as getting a trade-in on your brain.

I suggest that a brief trip to the local CPA would be a good thing for you.  Having you taxes done might be a good time to strike up a relationship with one.  It may cost you $100/hour, but it is worth it for a good one.  If you talk to him in, oh, July, he might have a discount rate. >The mortgage interest deduction is the biggest subsidy >in this country.  I’m sick of all the middle-class bellyaching about >taxes and the government because they get the biggest "welfare" of all.

I am very sorry for you.  Anyone who believes that it is a ’subsidy’ to have some part of their income sheltered from legal government theft is a suitable object of pity. >There are a lot of programs that primarily benefit the middle class, but >I don’t want to get into them here because this is an energy newsgroup.

This has all gone far afield of energy, and I, for one, am posting no more in response to this thread.  Further follup should go to one of the tax or econ groups. >Email me for more info if you don’t believe me.

No, thank you.  I talk with my CPA or my MBA instructors when I want tax or business advice.  They are both more accurate and more reliable. Yes, I don’t believe you.  But hey, Economics is only my degreed field, and I’m only employed managing a multi million dollar budget and I only own and manage three properties of my own … what do I know … ;-) Mikey "who probably pays more in taxes than the other guy makes" Smith — ‘Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has  genius, power and magic in it.’  -  Goethe "A goal is a dream taken seriously"   — Henry David Thoreau I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.

Response:

>::We will start with two hypothetical taxpayers in two different scenarios. >::Taxpayer 2 has a gross income of $2000, pays a mortgage of $1000 for >::investment property and rents the house for $1100. >:And this is where your model falls apart.  You just can not go out >:and buy a home with no cash down that rents for more than the

                 Notice this little point? >:mortgage payment.  IFF you put down a BIG downpayment, then you >:MIGHT be able to get a positive cash flow, but then you are forgoing >:the income that down payment would have earned in the bank. >:If it were the case that positive cash flow was that easy, you can >:bet that everyone and their cousin would just go out and sign up >:for all the properties they could find every waking minute.  Hey, >:it would all be ‘free money’.  Just sign the papers and the positive >:cash flow comes rolling in.  We can all be millionairs tomorrow!!!! >:But, sadly, that is not the case… >Wrong; like I said before, not everywhere. Where have you been lately?

California. >Although the market has been depressed lately, a lot of people made a lot >of money in real estate.  I lived in California for 23 years and a lot >of people made a lot of money doing just that.  

As did my Father.  That is why I have 2 rentals today, and have looked at the math of converting a third.  Yesterday doesn’t matter to todays economics. IFF inflation ever comes back AND the tax laws of the last 23 years THEN it MIGHT make bundles of money again.  Not now. >You *might* not have a >positive cash flow at first, but when rent goes up over time, you’re still >paying a low mortgage.  This is especially enticing in CA, because of the >"frozen" property taxes with Prop. 13.

This is a model based on the past.  California presently is in a deflationary cycle.  Home prices are going DOWN and have been for about 2-3 years.  Now, you can ‘lock in’ a nice high morgage and watch your rents drop over time… as your equity also evaporates … >The reason why everyone doesn’t do this is that you need cash to start with,

Remember that little caviate above?  If you could get a positive cash flow with zero down, folks would do it.  At non-zero down, folks have to allow for the lost earnings of that equity… >:gap between mortage rates and rental rates, but there is still SOME >:disparity (rents being LOWER) due to the deductability of the >:mortgage interest.   >I disagree.  You are generalizing again. There are plenty of landlords >out there with a positive cash flow.  I would go out and buy an >apartment building today for a positive cash flow except for two reasons: >I don’t currently have the cash necessary to buy a building and I have no

>desire being a landlord and dealing with the hassels.

Yes, you can always get a positive cash flow if you are willing to put enough money down.  The limiting case is 100% down.  That is why I stipulated the 0% down measuring stick…   It may well be different in other parts of the world, and I’d love to go pick up a few dozen properties with positive cash flows and only closing costs to pay, but I’ve never found them (unless you are big enough to get on on Resolution Trust Corp. deals where they are raping the taxpayer to make millionairs into billionairs). >The fact of the matter remains, the IRS gets more in a landlord/renter >relationship than from a homeowner.  

Pardon me?  Homeowner:  Deducts mortgage interest.             Rental owner:  Deducts mortgage interest, maintenance,                            travel costs, advertizing costs, some phone                            and office costs, property taxes? (I think),                            depreciation, and a few other details. Rental income is less than mortgage and/or depreciation so is not net income so no income tax on it. Homeowner income is fully taxed. Renter income is fully taxed. Case #1:  Homeowner.  Income fully taxed, one deduction for interest. Case #2:  Rental:  Renter income fully taxed, rent payment sheltered           from taxation, additional deductions applied for a net tax           loss by landlord reducing his tax burden.   >The landlord obviously isn’t going >to eat this, so the renter pays.

The landlord taxes a ‘tax loss’ and competitive market presures make him share this loss with the tenant via lower than morgage costs rents. At least in this area, I can quote you the exact spread.  $900 rent and $1100 mortgage FOR MY HOME. >:but realize that those who DO still rent WILL pay more.  Period. >Haven’t I been saying this all along?

No.  You have been saying that as thing stands the renter pays more. What you cut out was my statment that IF TAX DEDUCTIONS ARE REMOVED THEN the renter will more than he does today. — ‘Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has  genius, power and magic in it.’  -  Goethe "A goal is a dream taken seriously"   — Henry David Thoreau I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.

Response:

::We will start with two hypothetical taxpayers in two different scenarios. ::Taxpayer 2 has a gross income of $2000, pays a mortgage of $1000 for ::investment property and rents the house for $1100. :And this is where your model falls apart.  You just can not go out :and buy a home with no cash down that rents for more than the :mortgage payment.  IFF you put down a BIG downpayment, then you :MIGHT be able to get a positive cash flow, but then you are forgoing :the income that down payment would have earned in the bank. This is not true; maybe where you own property, but not everywhere.  The apartment I rent is in a house converted to two apartments.  The rent paid by both apartments combined is $1000/month.  I know that similar houses in the same neiborhood are going for $100-$120 k.  With current interest rates, this will give you a positive cash flow.  Not to mention the fact that the landlord has owned the house for 10 years, so the mortgage he is paying is undoubtedly less than the $100-$120 k figure.  If the house were purchased at today’s prices, he will still have a positve cash flow, unless some extensive maintenence were needed.  We have only be talking about houses in which the landlord is hoping to make profit from the appreciation of the house.   Most renters live in apartment buildings where there is definitely a positive cash flow. :If it were the case that positive cash flow was that easy, you can :bet that everyone and their cousin would just go out and sign up :for all the properties they could find every waking minute.  Hey, :it would all be ‘free money’.  Just sign the papers and the positive :cash flow comes rolling in.  We can all be millionairs tomorrow!!!! :But, sadly, that is not the case… Wrong; like I said before, not everywhere. Where have you been lately? Although the market has been depressed lately, a lot of people made a lot of money in real estate.  I lived in California for 23 years and a lot of people made a lot of money doing just that.  You *might* not have a positive cash flow at first, but when rent goes up over time, you’re still paying a low mortgage.  This is especially enticing in CA, because of the "frozen" property taxes with Prop. 13. The reason why everyone doesn’t do this is that you need cash to start with, and that there are risks and the hassels of being a landlord.  Most people would rather put their money in a mutual fund and forget about managing it. Leave it to the professionals. :gap between mortage rates and rental rates, but there is still SOME :disparity (rents being LOWER) due to the deductability of the :mortgage interest.   I disagree.  You are generalizing again. There are plenty of landlords out there with a positive cash flow.  I would go out and buy an apartment building today for a positive cash flow except for two reasons: I don’t currently have the cash necessary to buy a building and I have no desire being a landlord and dealing with the hassels. The fact of the matter remains, the IRS gets more in a landlord/renter relationship than from a homeowner.  The landlord obviously isn’t going to eat this, so the renter pays. :but realize that those who DO still rent WILL pay more.  Period. Haven’t I been saying this all along? Eric P.S.  Another outrageous thing is the idea of "home equity" loans.  Why the hell should someone who buys a car financed with a home equity loan be able to deduct the interest while I can’t deduct anything because my car’s financed by a traditional bank loan?

Response:

|>Tell me Eric, are you honestly trying to claim that if the landlord were |>not able to deduct his interest payments, than he would not raise your |>rent. |>And you want anyone else to take you seriously. Jigs, who wrote this. I know I didn’t even though the attributes say I did. I’m pretty sure you didn’t because it refers to both of us. |>I don’t mean to burst your bubble, but you are both right in a way.  If the |>landlord were not able to deduct his interest payments, he would pay some of |>the bill, but it does not get passed entirely to the renter.  The only rational |>I can give you without asking you to refresh your micro econnomics is that |>a raise in rent reduces the demand for those residences (whether apartments or |>others).  If this reduction in demand means that one of his places would go |>unrented, he would rather swallow some of that extra costs, for he would be |>making more net monies.  I could give you a more technical explanation, but |>I am not sure you want one. :)                             Actually no. The demand for housing is fairly constant. We aren’t going to rid of people after all. What would happen is that the demand for large apartments would go down, and also some of the ammenities. Cheaper appliances, thinner rugs, less outside landscaping, etc. If the mortgage deduction were eliminated overnight, you are right that the landlord in the short term would have to eat part of the difference. But over time, the rental stock would adjust to the new realities. |>Jigar Shah — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

 I think the John DeArmond wrote the paragraph below.  I am not sure. I am  sorry for mis attributing you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->|>Tell me Eric, are you honestly trying to claim that if the landlord were >|>not able to deduct his interest payments, than he would not raise your >|>rent. >|>And you want anyone else to take you seriously. >Jigs, who wrote this. I know I didn’t even though the attributes say I did. >I’m pretty sure you didn’t because it refers to both of us. >|>I don’t mean to burst your bubble, but you are both right in a way.  If the >|>landlord were not able to deduct his interest payments, he would pay some of >|>the bill, but it does not get passed entirely to the renter.  The only rational >|>I can give you without asking you to refresh your micro econnomics is that >|>a raise in rent reduces the demand for those residences (whether apartments or >|>others).  If this reduction in demand means that one of his places would go >|>unrented, he would rather swallow some of that extra costs, for he would be >|>making more net monies.  I could give you a more technical explanation, but >|>I am not sure you want one. :)                             >Actually no. The demand for housing is fairly constant. We aren’t going to >rid of people after all. What would happen is that the demand for large >apartments would go down, and also some of the ammenities. Cheaper appliances, >thinner rugs, less outside landscaping, etc. >If the mortgage deduction were eliminated overnight, you are right that the >landlord in the short term would have to eat part of the difference. >But over time, the rental stock would adjust to the new realities. >|>Jigar Shah >– >Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government >It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. >Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response:

>John De Armond writes: >:I do have a mortage and I do take the tax deduction.  I’d lots rather >:not have the taxes to deduct against.   … >: as a renter, you do indeed enjoy the same "subsidy" that I do.  Your >:landlord would gladly charge you added rent were his deduction go away. >Mark Wilson writes: >:If your landlord weren’t able to deduct the interest on the mortgage, you >:would be paying more for your apartment >You guys are unbelievable.  Talk about having the BS meter go offscale.

Um, I too said that as a landlord I’d increase rents if no deduction existed.  I also pointed out that Real World Prices showed that rental rates were lower for the same home than purchase prices.  The simple in-escapable conclusion from these real world facts (not theories) is simple.  The renter is not being ’screwed’ by lack of a deduction. >We will start with two hypothetical taxpayers in two different scenarios. >Taxpayer 2 has a gross income of $2000, pays a mortgage of $1000 for

                                                            ^^^^^ >investment property and rents the house for $1100.

                                             ^^^^^^ And this is where your model falls apart.  You just can not go out and buy a home with no cash down that rents for more than the mortgage payment.  IFF you put down a BIG downpayment, then you MIGHT be able to get a positive cash flow, but then you are forgoing the income that down payment would have earned in the bank. If it were the case that positive cash flow was that easy, you can bet that everyone and their cousin would just go out and sign up for all the properties they could find every waking minute.  Hey, it would all be ‘free money’.  Just sign the papers and the positive cash flow comes rolling in.  We can all be millionairs tomorrow!!!! But, sadly, that is not the case… What happens is that the push to get that tax deduction is so high that an over purchase of rental stock is made with a concomitant oversupply to the market.  The rental rates drop below the mortgage rate, and the cash flow ‘goes negative’.  OK, but lets say I’m getting $400 tax defrayed and only have a $300 negative… NET OF TAXES, I’m still $100/month ahead, so I do it.  Then the next guy is willing to do it for only $50/month… Then $10/month … etc.  The result of all this is that rental properties end up being owned by the people who most need the tax deductions, AND the rent ends up being reduced do to competitive pressures, to where most of that advantage goes to the renter.  The landlord just hopes that he can sell the home for more money at some future time due to inflation.  ie. the home ends up as an inflation hedge. I know, I own a couple and have serious doubts about doing a third because the return on investing EVEN INCLUDING THE TAX ADVANTAGE, just isn’t there.  In an infationary market I was willing to carry them at a wash, since the property value was going up.  In a deflationary market, there is little to interest me in converting my present property into a rental and losing a little every month… Yes, losing a little. I would have to take about a $150 to $200 a month negative cash flow NOT INCLUDING insurance, maintenance and property taxes, to convert it to a rental.  AND this is with about a 20% equity in place! You have created some nice little FICTIONAL scenarios to demonstrate the way you WISH THE WORLD WORKED, but it just isn’t that way. If you wish to ignore the real world experience of those of us who own properties and manage them and pay the bills and do the spread sheets WITH OUR REAL DOLLARS, that is fine.  I will enjoy watching the naivete… >Before you two closed-minded individuals go and insult my schooling >and my economics teacher, I suggest that you *think* first.  This is >so typical of all your posts.  All talk and no brains.

Put me in with them, then.  I’m not closed-minded, but let me tell you, every year I pay a CPA several hundred dollars to prepare my taxes, every year I look at the spread sheets on my rentals, every year I think I should dump them because it’s a losing deal… I keep them largely because one of them was ‘the family home’ when I was growing up and I’m nostalgic about it.  The other was the first rental home my DAD bought (back when you could make money at it) and I’ve got an attachment to it, too… I am a trained Economist.  I am a manager who does budgets and discounted cash flows, and depreciation schedules on a daily basis. I am a property owner who runs rentals.  It’s MY MONEY on the line. The last round of tax changes made rental property less ‘attractive’. Due to them, I’m most likely NOT going to turn my present home into a rental as I’d planned years ago.  This reduces the rental stock, increasing rental prices.  It will be sold instead.  This increases the purchased houses, decreasing mortgage prices.  This narrowed the gap between mortage rates and rental rates, but there is still SOME disparity (rents being LOWER) due to the deductability of the mortgage interest.  If mortgage interest stopped being deductable, there is one of my rental in particular that I’d likely sell.  This would continue to push rents up and mortgages down.  The ‘end game’ of this is rents and mortgages being roughly equal in price at the point where there is no mortgage interest deduction.  (depreciation and [repair costs + property tax] roughly balance to a net zero impact). This is about how things were post WWII I think.  ( I could be off a decade or two… somewhere in there, there was a housing boom as everyone and their brother bought homes because it was as cheap as renting…) You may want more people to own homes, rather than rent them, but realize that those who DO still rent WILL pay more.  Period. The net effect of a mortgage interest deduction is that the government subsidizes a lower rental price due to stimulation of excess competition in the rental market and induces more people to rent and fewer to own their own homes. >Eric (chemist-turned-part-time-tax-hobbiest) Snyder

Go back to chemistry, it suits your talents better. — ‘Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.  Boldness has  genius, power and magic in it.’  -  Goethe "A goal is a dream taken seriously"   — Henry David Thoreau I am not responsible nor is anyone else.  Everything is disclaimed.

Response:

Summary:  A modestly long detailed discussion of why, in most cases, general cost increases go right to prices, while from time to time some kinds of cost increases can’t.  General support for the position that The Tennant Pays.  One amusing horror story.  Couple of good ‘digs’ at the gov’t near the end. >>Tell me Eric, are you honestly trying to claim that if the landlord were >>not able to deduct his interest payments, than he would not raise your rent. >>And you want anyone else to take you seriously. >I don’t mean to burst your bubble, but you are both right in a way.  If the >landlord were not able to deduct his interest payments, he would pay some of >the bill, but it does not get passed entirely to the renter. The only rational

This only holds in a market with price elasticity of demand.  Everyone tends to need a home… a rather in-elastic market… Yes, you are right that there MAY be some splitting of the increased costs between higher prices (rents) and lower profits (lost deduction without higher prices) but you have no data for HOW MUCH percent to each. And this will be swamped by the Price Elasticity of SUPPLY of housing… >I can give you without asking you to refresh your micro econnomics is that >a raise in rent reduces the demand for those residences (whether apartments or >others).  

And a rise in costs reduces the supply of those residences.  Since everyone needs to live SOMEWHERE, demand is relatively IN-elastic. Since I can choose to invest in many alternatives to rental housing, supply is very LONG TERM Elastic.  Supply will drop more than demand will drop.  Prices will rise in the long term. >If this reduction in demand means that one of his places would go >unrented, he would rather swallow some of that extra costs, for he would be >making more net monies.  I could give you a more technical explanation, but >I am not sure you want one. :)                            

This is what happens on day one.  On day two, he decides not to turn that second home into a rental.  On day three, he decides not to put that extra $10k into a Real Estate REIT for rentals, but into {stocks, bonds, an addition to his own home, a vaction in Tahiti, a Swiss Account, a CD, etc…}  On day four, some housing stock has left the market (fires, floods, age, ‘reconstruction’ aka wrecking ball, etc.) and the rental prices go up as the supply is too short…   Equilibrium pricing will be re-established with prices higher by roughly the magnitude of the increase in costs, but with slightly fewer rental units. >Please, tell me you’re a freshman with a mind still full of mush.  I’d >really hate to think you represent what the university is producing >today.

He looks to me like exactly what comes out of the first 2 years of and Econ education… (I know, I got one 8-{  ) Lots of theory, little critical thinking to sort out what theory to apply… Less experience… >Your juvenile, amateurish, one-dimentional analysis of rental >prices is appalling.  I’m no economist (thank God) but I AM a small

I am …  But I got a Real Job in computers.  Can I thank God too?  ;-) >businessman and a landlord so I do know a thing or two about setting >rental prices.

Gee … I have a home business and some rentals as well…   >What you say is somewhat true when a single property incurrs additional >cost.  It is patently false when the added cost affects the whole >market, costs such as fuel or taxes.  (E. Mike, put a fancy economist >name on this :-)  

OK.  "Inflation" … (I’ve spent the last 20 years getting the bullshit generator they  taught me in Econ classes shut down so I can talk plainly… I’m  getting rusty at the ‘fancy economist names’ these days… Thank God!) Well, maybe "Inflationary Cost Escallation in a Non-competitive Factor of Production".  … Or, maybe … No, I won’t inflict that on you ;-) >When the cost to everyone in the market goes up, >there is NO competitive pressure on prices and the ALL go up.

In an in-elastic market.  Which housing tends to be.  There is always some trivial elasticity in even very price inelastic markets.  But it is small enough to ignore.  Yeah, some folks may be put on the street or move back with mom and dad, but not enough to matter.  Yeah, prices can rise so high compared to income that noone can pay them (like The Great Depression), but that is not the part of the curve we are on. But back to a cost increase or, the flip side, a cost decrease… The flip side of this is rather interesting as well, and proves John’s point rather nicely.  Look at the cost of a mortgage on a home, where you can deduct the interest, then look at the cost of renting that same home (where someone ELSE gets the deduction).  For example, my home would, bought new, have about a $1100/mo. mortgage.  Rented, it would be between $900-$1000/mo.   HOW can it RENT for less than it COSTS?  (Called a ‘negative cash flow’…) And that isn’t even counting repair costs, taxes, etc. that the landlord gets to eat… The answer is that the landlord has a tax ‘buy down’ from the Govt in the form of a tax deduction.  This reduced cost entices more people to buy homes for renting and DISTORTS THE MARKET by INCREASING THE SUPPLY of rental homes thus LOWERING PRICES to the renter(!).  Yes, the evil landlord takes on all the headaches of a rental property and STILL ends up passing some/all of the ‘tax deduction’ on to the renter in the form of lower rents due to competitive pressures in a non-elastic market with excess supply…   It is very rare these days to find positive cash flow properties unless they have some really gimicky financing that hides this gigantic payment in a year or two… Take away the tax deductability, the supply of rentals will drop as more people buy homes, the price to rent goes up. >At least those landlords who desire to maintain their profit margins >do.  When the price of energy rises, so do my rents (I provide utilities – >makes it easier to evict deadbeats).  When a local government passes >"tenant protection" (NOT!) laws, I figure out what it will likely >cost me and raise the rent accordingly.  When the government reduces some >tax dedution or anothe, the rent goes up.  YOU pay, not me.  That >business can somewhow be forced to pay is the BIG LIE of the last half >of the 20th century and is responsible for our continuing decline in >real income.  I, as a business, DON’T pay.  Period.  You do.

Well, this is 90% true…  For some products the market is highly competitive and global.  In that case the company will not be able to make the customer pay.  It may still not be profits that suffer. They can squeeze their suppliers, they can squeeze the employees. There are lots of folks they can try to stick with the bill.  But some times it IS the business that pays.   Take, for example, Silver Mining.  Most silver comes as a byproduct of other metals mining (such as copper).  If there is an increase in silver mining costs, unrelated to copper costs, the supply is NOT going to change much or at all.  Also, the world supply will dominate the price.   So, putting a ’severance tax’ on silver mining in the US WOULD NOT increase silver prices, yet WOULD increase costs.  The customer will not pay that tax. Who will?  Who knows.  Could be shareholders from reduced earnings. Could be the company will buy less stuff or squeeze their vendors for better deals.  Could be the CEO will get less pay.  Could be the miners will get less pay.  Could be some marginal mines in the US close and the work goes to China or Chili or Bolivia or … Rental housing is not this way. >Even a cursory examination of rental prices around the country >should show you this.  There is nothing that intrinsicly makes >rental property in small town PA worth twice what it is in >small town Tn but that’s exactly the situation.  Example.  I like

Location, location, and location. …  (The 3 things that determine property value ;-) … >Why did the market support such prices there?  Everything cost more >there but that was only part of the equation.  The big factor was >the so-called "tenant protection" laws that made it almost impossible >to evict a deadbeat.  They also imposed rather ridiculous building >codes on rental property.  

Not only will the increased real costs of these things be something you pass on, but since there is an increased risk to you, the landlord, you will tack on a ‘Risk Premium’ as well.  Risky investments require higher rewards to attract investers. >When I learned that it might take me >6 months to evict a deadbeat and even then, perhaps only after >using creative techniques like causing heating failures in the winter,

Um, in California at least, a caused ‘heating failure’ gets you a quick trip to court and/or jail …  Because of the difficulties of getting rid of a destructive and/or deadbeat when on Public Assistance in California, I do not rent to anyone unless they have significant dollars.  (If someone on Welfare is in your home and can’t pay the rent, that’s your problem in California.   No, you can’t evict them as you could with anyone else.  YOU have to find THEM a new place to live!  Consequently, NO ONE wants to rent to them in the first place…  Consequently, if one ever gets in on you, you are in a world of hurt.  I got one to leave by PAYING HIM (somewhat under the table, letting him steal the appliances…) to get out.  NEVER AGAIN.   IFF I ever had to rent to them, I’d make sure there was at least enough rent premium to cover a 6 month zero income interval.  Figure about 50% rent premium.  And since noone wants to rent to them, the price increase IS doable, since there is effectively a reduced supply.  I have another tennant who is never a problem, always pays … read more »

Response:

>>Tell me Eric, are you honestly trying to claim that if the landlord were >not able to deduct his interest payments, than he would not raise your >rent. >And you want anyone else to take you seriously. >I don’t mean to burst your bubble, but you are both right in a way.  If the >landlord were not able to deduct his interest payments, he would pay some of >the bill, but it does not get passed entirely to the renter.  The only rational >I can give you without asking you to refresh your micro econnomics is that >a raise in rent reduces the demand for those residences (whether apartments or >others).  If this reduction in demand means that one of his places would go >unrented, he would rather swallow some of that extra costs, for he would be >making more net monies.  I could give you a more technical explanation, but >I am not sure you want one. :)                            

Please, tell me you’re a freshman with a mind still full of mush.  I’d really hate to think you represent what the university is producing today. Your juvenile, amateurish, one-dimentional analysis of rental prices is appalling.  I’m no economist (thank God) but I AM a small businessman and a landlord so I do know a thing or two about setting rental prices. What you say is somewhat true when a single property incurrs additional cost.  It is patently false when the added cost affects the whole market, costs such as fuel or taxes.  (E. Mike, put a fancy economist name on this :-)  When the cost to everyone in the market goes up, there is NO competitive pressure on prices and the ALL go up. At least those landlords who desire to maintain their profit margins do.  When the price of energy rises, so do my rents (I provide utilities – makes it easier to evict deadbeats).  When a local government passes "tenant protection" (NOT!) laws, I figure out what it will likely cost me and raise the rent accordingly.  When the government reduces some tax dedution or anothe, the rent goes up.  YOU pay, not me.  That business can somewhow be forced to pay is the BIG LIE of the last half of the 20th century and is responsible for our continuing decline in real income.  I, as a business, DON’T pay.  Period.  You do. Even a cursory examination of rental prices around the country should show you this.  There is nothing that intrinsicly makes rental property in small town PA worth twice what it is in small town Tn but that’s exactly the situation.  Example.  I like lower middle income rental property because it is the most profitable. At the time I bought an apartment building in Middletown PA (pop ~20,000), I was lucky to be able to get $200 for 500 sq ft in Tennessee.  In PA, I started out at $500/month for 500 sq ft and about had my phone blown off the wall.  That was so much cheaper than anyone else in the area that I could have rented 3 times as many units as I had. I quickly pushed the price up to $650/mo and still the people came. Why did the market support such prices there?  Everything cost more there but that was only part of the equation.  The big factor was the so-called "tenant protection" laws that made it almost impossible to evict a deadbeat.  They also imposed rather ridiculous building codes on rental property.  When I learned that it might take me 6 months to evict a deadbeat and even then, perhaps only after using creative techniques like causing heating failures in the winter, I simply raised my prices to compensate for the potential lost revenue.  I also instituted a MUCH more detailed background check on potential tenants.  So while someone could just walk in and ask for an apartment in Tennessee, an applicant went through a detailed background and credit check in PA.  The PA tenant, of course, paid for all that. If the govenrment increases my costs through whatever means, you the tenant WILL pay for it.  All of it.  Maybe even more, if I think I can use the government action as an excuse to turn a little more profit.  You will pay both in direct costs and in lost opportunity. THIS is a lesson your Keynesian/communist government-can-do-everything- better college profs likely will NOT teach you but it surely is one that you will learn in real life.  Or if you don’t learn it, you will always wonder why the evil corporations are always out to get all your money.  Sad. Of course, you could continue to "believe" your economic fiction in the same fashion you believe your EV fiction. John — Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion "Dr. Kevorkian, please report to the Oval Office."

Response:

:Eric. All your example proves is that the can talke advantage of available tax :deductions to reduce his tax bill.  No shit sherlock. That was exactly the :point I was arguing. : :Now the real question which you so adroitly avoided is if the landlord is :no longer able to deduct interest payments, in your example $600/month, :his monthly expenses will go up, in your example by $90/month. :What will this additional expense cause the landlord to do? : :If you answer, he will raise your rent by $90/month, than you get an :A in economics. You don’t know what the hell you are talking about. First of all, let’s clarify the scenario.  I’m talking about a person renting a house or apartment from a landlord who doesn’t live there. i.e. it is not a room in the landlord’s house or an attached apartment. In essense, the landlord runs a business.  He only gets taxed on business profits, so of course he gets to deduct all of his expenses.  So he deducts the mortgage interest, as well as the mortgage principal, because it is a business expense.  Now lets assume there was no mortgage interest deduction.  He still will deduct the mortgage interest and all other expenses because it is a business and he is only taxed on profits. To say that he wouldn’t be able to deduct this without the mortgage interest deduction is like saying that a manufacturing business couldn’t deduct the cost of their factory from their gross income. You’re now going to say "see, renters are getting a better deal". That’s is BS.  Look at the figures in my previous post.  The fact remains if a house is "worth" a $1000 a month, the owner will pay $1000 and deduct the interest.  The landlord pays a $1000 mortgage and deducts all of it as business expenses and rents it for $1000 (thereby making no profits). The renter pays $1000, to cover the landlords cost’s, but gets to deduct nothing. The owner will always pay less in taxes than the landlord/renter, because the landlord is a middle-man.  The more middle-men, the more taxes paid. It is a very simple principle.  The IRS taxes a transaction. A landowner pays taxes when a mining company buys their land, who then pays taxes when a steel manufacturer buys their ore, who then pays taxes when an auto manufacturer buys their steel, who then pays taxes when a consumer buys their car.  The consumer already paid taxes on their income, and their company paid taxes for …  A home owner buys a house; 1 transaction.  A landlord buys a house and then rents it out; 2 transactions. If you can’t see this and do the simple math, you need to take a basic math course as well as getting a trade-in on your brain. The mortgage interest deduction is the biggest subsidy in this country.  I’m sick of all the middle-class bellyaching about taxes and the government because they get the biggest "welfare" of all. There are a lot of programs that primarily benefit the middle class, but I don’t want to get into them here because this is an energy newsgroup. Email me for more info if you don’t believe me. Eric Snyder

Response:

Eric. All your example proves is that the can talke advantage of available tax deductions to reduce his tax bill.  No shit sherlock. That was exactly the point I was arguing. Now the real question which you so adroitly avoided is if the landlord is no longer able to deduct interest payments, in your example $600/month, his monthly expenses will go up, in your example by $90/month. What will this additional expense cause the landlord to do? If you answer, he will raise your rent by $90/month, than you get an A in economics. Actually an argument can be made that homeowners are subsidizing renters since landlords have access to deductions that homeowners can’t use. Such as deductiong insurance, depreciation and the cost of normal household repairs. — Mob rule isn’t any prettier merely because the mob calls itself a government It ain’t charity if you are using someone else’s money. Wilson’s theory of relativity: If you go back far enough, we’re all related.

Response: