Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m having quite a time understanding the whole homeowners insurance > mess.  Could someone please offer some advice? > We purchased our condo (primary residence) a month ago.  Everything > went smoothly except the homeowners insurance part.  We decided to go > with the provider who insures the entire building (3 units), who > actually came in lower than the other 4 companies I looked at with the > exact same policy.  The agent said that the other insurance companies > were trying to insure me for much more than was necessary (he still > gave us a quote on their terms, though). > Everything was just fine until about 10 days before closing, when the > insurance agent called us and said that the bank needed us to be > insured for the full amount of the loan.  He said that in his 15 years > in the business, he had never heard such craziness.  By this point, we > were so close to the closing that I stupidly accepted it, no questions > asked.  Stupid stupid stupid. > I’m going to call the bank on Monday and try to figure this out, but I > was hoping to get some advice before I call.  Is there any > monkeybusiness going on that in my naive state I have completely > missed?  Two things really worry me: 1)1), the fact that our agent > wanted to insure us for LESS than the other companies, and 2), after > 15 years insurance, I would have assumed that he would have seen > EVERYTHING. > ugh. > joseph

Well, your insurer may be correct.  He may be experiencing a changing financial climate and escalating risks, claims and defaults.  In the end, it is the homeowner who pays. Caveat Emptor. Barron’s: Home-price bubble in peril? By CBS.MarketWatch.com … "As down payments have fallen from a standard 20 percent of purchase prices and mortgages include cash pullouts via refinancing and second mortgages, owner equity has dropped to 55 percent of valuation from 70 percent in the 1980s." … "Seven months ago, in the most recent numbers available, Barron’s notes that the Mortgage Bankers Association said 3.13 percent of all prime mortgages were delinquent, the highest since a 3.26 percent rate in the 1991 recession. " Article available on file at:  http://cbs.marketwatch.com/news/ Profits of Property & Casualty Insurers Plunge From $19 Billion to a $738 Million Loss, According to Weiss Ratings; Terrorist Attacks Drive Up Claims By $23.5 Billion PALM BEACH GARDENS, Fla.–(BUSINESS WIRE)–March 25, 2002–The nation’s property and casualty insurers lost $738 million during the first nine months of 2001, compared to a $19 billion profit during the same period in 2000, according to research conducted by Weiss Ratings, Inc., the nation’s leading independent provider of ratings and analyses of financial services companies, mutual funds and stocks. The loss is the industry’s first since Weiss began rating property and casualty insurers in 1993, and is primarily due to two factors. First, the estimated damages from the September 11 attacks caused reported claims to surge $23.5 billion to $171.8 billion through the third quarter of 2001, as compared to $148.3 billion during the same period the prior year. Secondly, the stock market slump caused the industry to suffer a $6.6 billion, or 49 percent, decline in realized capital gains. … http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HADD_sickhomes/message/465 Courts: Entertainer seeks $20 million from insurer, alleging he was sickened by substance after botched repair. By ANN O’NEILL LA TIMES STAFF WRITER April 10 2002 "…In response to the increased litigation, insurance rates have spiked in some states. Insurers in some areas have stopped writing policies or offer only bare-bones ones that don’t cover mold problems. In June, for example, Farmers Insurance Group lost a $32-million lawsuit filed by a Texas family that claimed toxic mold in their home caused severe health problems. The jury found that the insurer failed to pay for needed repairs for a water leak, which allowed mold to grow rampant in the house, making it uninhabitable. In California, Gov. Gray Davis signed the 2001 Toxic Mold Disclosure Act, which went into effect in January. The law requires anyone selling, leasing or transferring property to disclose any potentially dangerous mold problem. "The mold that grew in this case was the poisonous variety, stachybotrys chartarum," Browne said. "This is the most dangerous mold of all. It can cause death in people who are susceptible to respiratory ailments…." http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HADD_sickhomes/message/492 — Duane M. Tilden PEng(BC) Crown Mechanical Consulting

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My name is Eli Brumbaugh, and my family owns and operates MorningStar Insurance in Houston, Texas we have been serving the state of Texas since 1994 for their homeowners and auto insurance needs. We are an independent agency so we go through many different companies all of which are A+ rated that we work with to get you the best price available. We can offer you: Homeowners Insurance with great rates. Auto Insurance at great rates even with teenage drivers. Life Insurance with great rates. Commercial Insurance with grate rates. We are a member of the (BBB) Better Business Bureau Greater Houston. If you would like a free, fast quote call us at 281-870-1800, or fax us at 281-870-1876 If you live in Houston, Texas and would like to come to the office for a quote come on down to 14125 Memorial Dr. Houston, Texas 77079

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I understand that what you are saying is true in some/ a lot of cases.  My mortgage is with HSBC (kind of a large financial institution) and my mortgage documents do not address this issue in the way you state.   I am allowed to insure my property,  less the lot,  for what it would cost to replace it.  My insurance company is quite large and with professional agents who were able to calculate my replacement cost.  They didn’t shoot from the hp either.   They did a detailed analysis to arrive at the replacement cost.   I’m happy and HSBC is, too. Trip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> DO it for $150K then the day after closing,  change it to $140K and get a > refund for the difference in the premium. >I think that if you read your mortgage document carefully, you will >find a section that authorizes your mortgage company to purchase >homeowners’ insurance in your name if you fail to maintain a policy >that meets their requirements. This is generally far more expensive >than just maintaining the demanded insurance in the first place. They >also typically require the mortgage company to be named on the policy >as co-payee on any payouts, meaning that the mortgage company also >gets notified by the insurance company if the coverage changes or is >cancelled. >– >       GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg >           BadTux News Links  http://badtux.org

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> DO it for $150K then the day after closing,  change it to $140K and get a > refund for the difference in the premium.

I think that if you read your mortgage document carefully, you will find a section that authorizes your mortgage company to purchase homeowners’ insurance in your name if you fail to maintain a policy that meets their requirements. This is generally far more expensive than just maintaining the demanded insurance in the first place. They also typically require the mortgage company to be named on the policy as co-payee on any payouts, meaning that the mortgage company also gets notified by the insurance company if the coverage changes or is cancelled. —        GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg            BadTux News Links  http://badtux.org

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DO it for $150K then the day after closing,  change it to $140K and get a refund for the difference in the premium. Trip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->  I’ve never heard of a bank giving you a loan for more than you are insured > for, that would not be a smart risk. >Huh? As far as I know, all that’s necessary is that you be insured for >what it takes to re-build the house, and in fact the maximum that >you’ll get from the insurance company in the event that the house >burns down is the amount that it takes to re-build the house — >regardless of the amount of the mortgage or the face value of the >insurance policy. Thus for example I was looking at insurance for a >home with a $150,000 loan, and the insurance agent detirmined that it >would cost $140,000 to rebuild this house — the rest of the cost of >the house was the price of the land the house was sitting upon. If the >bank demanded that the insurance company insure the home with a policy >that had a face value of $150,000, they could do that — but if the >house burned down the next day, all the bank would get would be >$140,000, the amount it would cost to re-build the home. >Looking at the insurance requirements for the FHA loan program, that’s >what you’ll see — that you must carry insurance capable of rebuilding >the home in the event that it is destroyed by fire, flood, or natural >disaster, and that you must rebuild the home within <n> months of this >happening. The cost of rebuilding a new home is going to be less than >the sale price/loan amount on the home, since you’re paying for both >the home and the land — and can subtract the cost of the land from >the equation. >As things go on and inflation causes rebuilding costs to rise, THEN >you might end up insured for the loan amount (as the maximum amount >that the bank can require to be insured, since it is the limit of >their risk), but that’s not where you’ll start at on new construction. >All I can figure is that things might be different for a condo, since >you don’t own the land a condo is on. On the other hand, the exterior >parts of a condo are generally part of the "commons", and are insured >by the condo association. Meaning that if the condo burns down, your >insurance company will only pay the costs of rebuilding the interior of >the home — they will not pay the costs of rebuilding the exterior of >the home. >In short, while the bank can certainly demand that insurance be >written to cover a $150,000 loss even if the replacement value of the >house is $140,000, the insurance company will only pay the replacement >value of the house at most, regardless of the face value of the >insurance. Thus such a requirement is sheer idiocy on the part of the >bank. >– >       GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg >           BadTux News Links  http://badtux.org

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>  I’ve never heard of a bank giving you a loan for more than you are insured > for, that would not be a smart risk.

Huh? As far as I know, all that’s necessary is that you be insured for what it takes to re-build the house, and in fact the maximum that you’ll get from the insurance company in the event that the house burns down is the amount that it takes to re-build the house — regardless of the amount of the mortgage or the face value of the insurance policy. Thus for example I was looking at insurance for a home with a $150,000 loan, and the insurance agent detirmined that it would cost $140,000 to rebuild this house — the rest of the cost of the house was the price of the land the house was sitting upon. If the bank demanded that the insurance company insure the home with a policy that had a face value of $150,000, they could do that — but if the house burned down the next day, all the bank would get would be $140,000, the amount it would cost to re-build the home. Looking at the insurance requirements for the FHA loan program, that’s what you’ll see — that you must carry insurance capable of rebuilding the home in the event that it is destroyed by fire, flood, or natural disaster, and that you must rebuild the home within <n> months of this happening. The cost of rebuilding a new home is going to be less than the sale price/loan amount on the home, since you’re paying for both the home and the land — and can subtract the cost of the land from the equation. As things go on and inflation causes rebuilding costs to rise, THEN you might end up insured for the loan amount (as the maximum amount that the bank can require to be insured, since it is the limit of their risk), but that’s not where you’ll start at on new construction. All I can figure is that things might be different for a condo, since you don’t own the land a condo is on. On the other hand, the exterior parts of a condo are generally part of the "commons", and are insured by the condo association. Meaning that if the condo burns down, your insurance company will only pay the costs of rebuilding the interior of the home — they will not pay the costs of rebuilding the exterior of the home. In short, while the bank can certainly demand that insurance be written to cover a $150,000 loss even if the replacement value of the house is $140,000, the insurance company will only pay the replacement value of the house at most, regardless of the face value of the insurance. Thus such a requirement is sheer idiocy on the part of the bank. —        GnuPG public key at http://badtux.org/eric/eric.gpg            BadTux News Links  http://badtux.org

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your assoication should have insurance on the whole condo, you are only responsible for in replacement insurance on the inside of the condo.  Contact your management company. richard : I’m having quite a time understanding the whole homeowners insurance : mess.  Could someone please offer some advice? : : We purchased our condo (primary residence) a month ago.  Everything : went smoothly except the homeowners insurance part.  We decided to go : with the provider who insures the entire building (3 units), who : actually came in lower than the other 4 companies I looked at with the : exact same policy.  The agent said that the other insurance companies : were trying to insure me for much more than was necessary (he still : gave us a quote on their terms, though). : : Everything was just fine until about 10 days before closing, when the : insurance agent called us and said that the bank needed us to be : insured for the full amount of the loan.  He said that in his 15 years : in the business, he had never heard such craziness.  By this point, we : were so close to the closing that I stupidly accepted it, no questions : asked.  Stupid stupid stupid. : : I’m going to call the bank on Monday and try to figure this out, but I : was hoping to get some advice before I call.  Is there any : monkeybusiness going on that in my naive state I have completely : missed?  Two things really worry me: 1)1), the fact that our agent : wanted to insure us for LESS than the other companies, and 2), after : 15 years insurance, I would have assumed that he would have seen : EVERYTHING. : : ugh. : : joseph

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 I’ve never heard of a bank giving you a loan for more than you are insured for, that would not be a smart risk. You don’t have to take insurance for the full replacement value if you are willing to accept the risk of loss for the difference, but I can’t see how you are going to get a loan for more than you are insuring for.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m having quite a time understanding the whole homeowners insurance > mess.  Could someone please offer some advice? > We purchased our condo (primary residence) a month ago.  Everything > went smoothly except the homeowners insurance part.  We decided to go > with the provider who insures the entire building (3 units), who > actually came in lower than the other 4 companies I looked at with the > exact same policy.  The agent said that the other insurance companies > were trying to insure me for much more than was necessary (he still > gave us a quote on their terms, though). > Everything was just fine until about 10 days before closing, when the > insurance agent called us and said that the bank needed us to be > insured for the full amount of the loan.  He said that in his 15 years > in the business, he had never heard such craziness.  By this point, we > were so close to the closing that I stupidly accepted it, no questions > asked.  Stupid stupid stupid. > I’m going to call the bank on Monday and try to figure this out, but I > was hoping to get some advice before I call.  Is there any > monkeybusiness going on that in my naive state I have completely > missed?  Two things really worry me: 1)1), the fact that our agent > wanted to insure us for LESS than the other companies, and 2), after > 15 years insurance, I would have assumed that he would have seen > EVERYTHING. > ugh. > joseph

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I have never owned nor even though about owning a Condo… However …  Your home should be insured for its full replacement value… BUT the land you paid for and on which your home sits IS NOT going to burn down…. The structure itself needs to be insured..the land really does not have to be… I think your agent was thinking along those lines…and I agree… Bob Griffiths – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m having quite a time understanding the whole homeowners insurance > mess.  Could someone please offer some advice? > We purchased our condo (primary residence) a month ago.  Everything > went smoothly except the homeowners insurance part.  We decided to go > with the provider who insures the entire building (3 units), who > actually came in lower than the other 4 companies I looked at with the > exact same policy.  The agent said that the other insurance companies > were trying to insure me for much more than was necessary (he still > gave us a quote on their terms, though). > Everything was just fine until about 10 days before closing, when the > insurance agent called us and said that the bank needed us to be > insured for the full amount of the loan.  He said that in his 15 years > in the business, he had never heard such craziness.  By this point, we > were so close to the closing that I stupidly accepted it, no questions > asked.  Stupid stupid stupid. > I’m going to call the bank on Monday and try to figure this out, but I > was hoping to get some advice before I call.  Is there any > monkeybusiness going on that in my naive state I have completely > missed?  Two things really worry me: 1)1), the fact that our agent > wanted to insure us for LESS than the other companies, and 2), after > 15 years insurance, I would have assumed that he would have seen > EVERYTHING. > ugh. > joseph

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I’m having quite a time understanding the whole homeowners insurance mess.  Could someone please offer some advice? We purchased our condo (primary residence) a month ago.  Everything went smoothly except the homeowners insurance part.  We decided to go with the provider who insures the entire building (3 units), who actually came in lower than the other 4 companies I looked at with the exact same policy.  The agent said that the other insurance companies were trying to insure me for much more than was necessary (he still gave us a quote on their terms, though). Everything was just fine until about 10 days before closing, when the insurance agent called us and said that the bank needed us to be insured for the full amount of the loan.  He said that in his 15 years in the business, he had never heard such craziness.  By this point, we were so close to the closing that I stupidly accepted it, no questions asked.  Stupid stupid stupid. I’m going to call the bank on Monday and try to figure this out, but I was hoping to get some advice before I call.  Is there any monkeybusiness going on that in my naive state I have completely missed?  Two things really worry me: 1)1), the fact that our agent wanted to insure us for LESS than the other companies, and 2), after 15 years insurance, I would have assumed that he would have seen EVERYTHING. ugh. joseph

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Question:

> When your nephew first bought his home, how did he go about applying > for a loan?  Same process, really….

Actually, probably not, depending on how long ago that was. Banks (small or large) rarely have the best rates, and what they’re selling you is not a better product (it’s just a generic loan, tradeable on the open market, and the bank is quite likely to sell your loan to someone else within days or weeks of the refinancing). But today you can use the web to look for good rates. Remember to check for junk fees and (of course) points. A lot of information is available more quickly today than a few years ago. As long as you avoid companies that lend to people with sub-par credit (many scams in that market) there is no particular risk to dealing with some company in Outer Nebraska (as long as they are allowed to do mortgages in your state).

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See http://www.bankrate.com/ for links to mortgage and refinancing info.

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My nephew is going to refinance his house and asked me to help him. What is the best way to start, should we use local (Denver) institutions or what? Any information would be greatly appreciated. He gets bombarded every day with offers that when we check them Surely there is a better approach to this. Is there another group that would be more appropiate? Thanks in advance       Rally    

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Call a local reputable broker.  They can shop around and usually find the best rates.  Get a rate quote and Good Faith Estimate from 2 brokers/companies to compare closing costs, etc.  Then take the one that has the lower rate/closing cost combo.  You need also to decide if refinancing is the best thing to do in his particular situation. Trip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My nephew is going to refinance his house and asked me to help him. >What is the best way to start, should we use local (Denver) >institutions or what? >Any information would be greatly appreciated. >He gets bombarded every day with offers that when we check them >Surely there is a better approach to this. >Is there another group that would be more appropiate? >Thanks in advance >      Rally    

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Question:

Tanks fore helPing distroy homez and childRen’s lives. GM

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If you’ve recently been through a divorce-or are contemplating one-you may want to look closely at issues involving credit. Understanding the different kinds of credit accounts opened during a marriage may help illuminate the potential benefits-and pitfalls-of each. There are two types of credit accounts: individual and joint. You can permit authorized persons to use the account with either. When you apply for credit-whether a charge card or a mortgage loan-you’ll be asked to select one type. Individual or Joint Account Individual Account: Your income, assets, and credit history are considered by the creditor. Whether you are married or single, you alone are responsible for paying off the debt. The account will appear on your credit report, and may appear on the credit report of any "authorized" user. However, if you live in a community property state (Arizona, California, Idaho, Louisiana, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, Washington, or Wisconsin), you and your spouse may be responsible for debts incurred during the marriage, and the individual debts of one spouse may appear on the credit report of the other. Advantages/Disadvantages: If you’re not employed outside the home, work part-time, or have a low-paying job, it may be difficult to demonstrate a strong financial picture without your spouse’s income. But if you open an account in your name and are responsible, no one can negatively affect your credit record. Joint Account: Your income, financial assets, and credit history-and your spouse’s-are considerations for a joint account. No matter who handles the household bills, you and your spouse are responsible for seeing that debts are paid. A creditor who reports the credit history of a joint account to credit bureaus must report it in both names (if the account was opened after June 1, 1977). Advantages/Disadvantages: An application combining the financial resources of two people may present a stronger case to a creditor who is granting a loan or credit card. But because two people applied together for the credit, each is responsible for the debt. This is true even if a divorce decree assigns separate debt obligations to each spouse. Former spouses who run up bills and don’t pay them can hurt their ex-partner’s credit histories on jointly-held accounts. Account "Users" If you open an individual account, you may authorize another person to use it. If you name your spouse as the authorized user, a creditor who reports the credit history to a credit bureau must report it in your spouse’s name as well as in your’s (if the account was opened after June 1, 1977). A creditor also may report the credit history in the name of any other authorized user. Advantages/Disadvantages: User accounts often are opened for convenience. They benefit people who might not qualify for credit on their own, such as students or homemakers. While these people may use the account, you-not they-are contractually liable for paying the debt. If You Divorce If you’re considering divorce or separation, pay special attention to the status of your credit accounts. If you maintain joint accounts during this time, it’s important to make regular payments so your credit record won’t suffer. As long as there’s an outstanding balance on a joint account, you and your spouse are responsible for it. If you divorce, you may want to close joint accounts or accounts in which your former spouse was an authorized user. Or ask the creditor to convert these accounts to individual accounts. By law, a creditor cannot close a joint account because of a change in marital status, but can do so at the request of either spouse. A creditor, however, does not have to change joint accounts to individual accounts. The creditor can require you to reapply for credit on an individual basis and then, based on your new application, extend or deny you credit. In the case of a mortgage or home equity loan, a lender is likely to require refinancing to remove a spouse from the obligation. Child Support Collection Kit! do-it-yourself child support collection kit is easy to understand and filled with every resource you may need. Download right now! http://deadbeats2.homestead.com/index.html

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Question:

I’m considering refinancing and there are some good deals out there, but they’re from companies I never heard of (probably brokers).  On another thread, there was split opinion on whether it matters who you get your mortgage from. I can think of some bad things that could happen. But am I just being paranoid?  Here are examples.  Tell me if they really happen. 1) you’re not credited for a payment and this appears on your credit history as a delinquency 2) they require an impound account, and they don’t pay your taxes/insurance on time. You’re charged a late fee as a result 3) you call regarding a problem (like #1 or #2), and you’re put on hold forever or can’t reach them at all. There’s quite a difference between the rate of lesser known lenders and the well-known ones (50 basis points). I need to decide whether it’s worth the risk. tia! Doug

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m considering refinancing and there are some good deals out there, > but they’re from companies I never heard of (probably brokers).  On > another thread, there was split opinion on whether it matters who you > get your mortgage from. > I can think of some bad things that could happen. But am I just being > paranoid?  Here are examples.  Tell me if they really happen. > 1) you’re not credited for a payment and this appears on your credit > history as a delinquency > 2) they require an impound account, and they don’t pay your > taxes/insurance on time. You’re charged a late fee as a result > 3) you call regarding a problem (like #1 or #2), and you’re put on > hold forever or can’t reach them at all. > There’s quite a difference between the rate of lesser known lenders > and the well-known ones (50 basis points). I need to decide whether > it’s worth the risk. > tia! > Doug

Thats why you should go to a local homestead Society, a loan company tha that is made up of peeople who put their money into the homestead with the wish of someday buying a house and the ones that borrow are buying a house.  The one i went with in 1971 was in business since 1800’s and went through the depression and survived….. the rate for me back then was 7.5 % for 25 years… i did not have any points…… they are still in business, they always paid the taxes and insurance from my escrow account on time and when it was getting low i would receive a notice that i would need X dollars to bring it up to anticipate the tax/insurance payments.. you see its their money there were protecting…Nice people to deal with and they always answered the phone and i could go there and talk to them if needed as they were in a one story building with no hidden offices, president of the homestead was alot of local savings and loans went out of business in the late 70’s to 80’s with the scandals and the fed. govt. had to pay off these bad loans, not these people, they did not have any bad loans. they did the right thing and are still running  a good business….. i suggest that you look for one and use one and save yourself some grief.

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Question:

Just to let everyone know.  I compiled a list of 10 or so easy questions that I’ll include here as it’ll be useful for someone in the future.  When it came time to nail down the two deals the now-I-know-she-was-shady Mortgage Broker said they were too many questions and she didn’t want to do it anymore.  When I called a couple of other people they told me I shouldn’t even consider changing one of the mortgages it’s one of the best around, so I guess she was just after more commission by wanting to switch one that didn’t need switching…  Out of disrespect for her I’m going to edit out the "pleases"  and "thank-you"s . p.s. The the Ontario (Canada) Mortgage Brokers Act specifies that question one is legally required disclosure. 1.  Send  statement of Mortgage and amortization schedule for each mortgage. 2.  Confirm that the "running or current account" clause is not a part of the mortgage agreement. 3.  Re-state the product/rate options you offered in writing. 4.  Any other costs?  Could I go to my spreadsheet and get a bottom line closing total ? 5.  In the future if I lock-in,  will there be any other fees associated with that? 6.  Lock-in rate discounts ?  My friend got x% off,  can I get y% off if I lock in to a 3, 5, etc fixed term later.? 7.  Is mortgage insurance a condition of the loan? 8. Is transferring an issue? Will my payout penalty allow me to transfer and not de-register the loan (avoid legal fees) 9. If I have both mortgages with the same lender does it pose a risk?  Can one mortgage affect another?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I live in Canada,  have two properties I’m refinancing and have met with a > mortgage broker where she’s basically told me I can choose from 1-yr respectively. > But that’s about all I know.   I got my payout quotes from my current > lenders (trust companies) and had the ugly surprise of alot of additional > Admin charges and surcharges that I don’t see in my Mortgage agreements. > I didn’t think they could put extra junk fees in unless you agreed > to it …  (What kinds of fees are junk fees anyway?) > So I’m trying to compile a list of questions to make sure I understand > whether these new mortgages are good products or not,  and so that down the > road I don’t find out I missed something. > Any suggestions would be welcome.

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This is a really BAD time to be looking at adjustable-rate notes. apart from that, look at the following comparisons on the loans: 1-total of monthly payments over the expected time period that your will have the property. (If you do not expect to have the property for the full term of the loan, ignore the term and go with the number of years you will have the place.) 2-total costs of acquiring the loan. 3-add the 2 above figures and compare this total.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I live in Canada,  have two properties I’m refinancing and have met with a > mortgage broker where she’s basically told me I can choose from 1-yr > But that’s about all I know.   I got my payout quotes from my current > lenders (trust companies) and had the ugly surprise of alot of additional > Admin charges and surcharges that I don’t see in my Mortgage agreements. > I didn’t think they could put extra junk fees in unless you agreed > to it …  (What kinds of fees are junk fees anyway?) > So I’m trying to compile a list of questions to make sure I understand > whether these new mortgages are good products or not,  and so that down the > road I don’t find out I missed something. > Any suggestions would be welcome.

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I live in Canada,  have two properties I’m refinancing and have met with a mortgage broker where she’s basically told me I can choose from 1-yr But that’s about all I know.   I got my payout quotes from my current lenders (trust companies) and had the ugly surprise of alot of additional Admin charges and surcharges that I don’t see in my Mortgage agreements. I didn’t think they could put extra junk fees in unless you agreed to it …  (What kinds of fees are junk fees anyway?) So I’m trying to compile a list of questions to make sure I understand whether these new mortgages are good products or not,  and so that down the road I don’t find out I missed something. Any suggestions would be welcome.

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Question:

I like this last idea. Remember desperate situations demand desperate measures. — Emmanuel Inland Empire Community web, newsgroups and ftp http://4.40.44.70 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I was wondering what will be the lest damaging to myself and my > credit. I realize that unless a miracle happens, I’m screwed but I’m > sure some ways will leave me less screwed than others. :) > The short version: I have a house I can no longer make payments on, > can’t sell, and the mortgage company refuses to help. With the idea > that I don’t want to keep the house, what is my best option? > The long version: I have a townhouse that I was renting out to other > people. The townhouse was my first house which I bought via FHA. After > 5 years I moved out and bought a bigger single family home. Unable to > sell it, I began renting it. The first couple were fine, then I got > the tents from hell. A series of 3 separate tents in fact, that cost > me major money to keep the house fixed up. Sure I kept the deposit and > took them to court but people who don’t own anything don’t fear court > judgments. However they will threaten to sue over the littlest of > things. Anyways, so after months of sleepless nights and maxed out > credit cards, I evicted the last group of tents, put the house up for > sale, and vowed to never rent out anything of mine again. > However the house isn’t selling and I’m offering the bear minimum I > can sell it. So I contacted the mortgager Wells Fargo and FHA to > activate some anti-forcloser protection. They are refusing to help. 12 > weeks of phone calls and I’ve been given a deaf ear all the way. I’ve > looked into refinancing but there isn’t anyway to get the payments > down to something I can afford within all my other bills. > So now I’m a few weeks late on a payment and it isn’t looking like > anything is likely to save me. Right now I see 3 things happening. > 1.      A buyer on a white horse comes riding up to buy the townhouse > within the next 45 days. Complete fantasy here > 2.      I let the bank foreclose on the townhouse. Seems to be the > most likely option but is this worse than a bankruptcy? > 3.      I file for bankruptcy. Put as far as I can tell this option > would be only if I wanted to try to keep the townhouse. Which I don’t > So any suggestions on what to do to make this less painful? > Also how bad is foreclose or bankruptcy. I know people that have > gotten credit cards and credit within weeks after completing > bankruptcy. However I’m not to concerned because the only thing I > needed credit cards was ordering online and making repairs to the > townhouse that I’m trying to get rid off. If I can’t get a gold card > for 7 years, I don’t have an issue with that. :) My biggest concern is > a new car. I did buy a car just last year so I don’t need one for > awhile but my need for a car will more than likely come up before the > 7 years is up.. > FYI I live in maryland. > Baron Calamity > "A shark on whiskey-mighty risky. But a shark on beer is a beer

engineer" – Space Ghost – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> if the selling price minus the mortage leaves you nothing, then try this > rent to own: you might be able to find someone that will go for that > deal, seems like you will get a tennant with some stake in the place, > will take care of it a little better, if it dont cost too much you might > even put up the down paymnent for them to buy the place??? thats the > problem with the town house and codo stuff, no one wants to be three > inches away from the neighbors, what if they leave the tub overflow, its > gonna run into your place, the neighbor might be renting and dont car if > his place falls apart, problem is that your place will also fall.

Response:

>Why not rent it out again? Can you take a loss on the rent and still >manage? That’s where I would start, personally.

I wouldn’t advise this.  Remember your quote about the "tenants from hell!" Martin http://members.aol.com/MartinM377/martin.htm What is more complicated than the female body?

Response:

> Why not rent it out again? Can you take a loss on the rent and still > manage? That’s where I would start, personally. Also, do you have any > equity in the townhouse? > Dimitri

Why not rent again? Simple, I’d probably kill myself if I have another tent from hell. Seriously. As for equity, all of that was pissed away due to falling land values. Baron Calamity

Response:

[snip!] >1.  A buyer on a white horse comes riding up to buy the townhouse >       within the next 45 days. Complete fantasy here >2.  I let the bank foreclose on the townhouse. Seems to be the >       most likely option but is this worse than a bankruptcy? >3.  I file for bankruptcy. Put as far as I can tell this option >       would be only if I wanted to try to keep the townhouse. Which I don’t

Why not rent it out again? Can you take a loss on the rent and still manage? That’s where I would start, personally. Also, do you have any equity in the townhouse? Dimitri

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I was wondering what will be the lest damaging to myself and my > credit. I realize that unless a miracle happens, I’m screwed but I’m > sure some ways will leave me less screwed than others. :) > The short version: I have a house I can no longer make payments on, > can’t sell, and the mortgage company refuses to help. With the idea > that I don’t want to keep the house, what is my best option? > The long version: I have a townhouse that I was renting out to other > people. The townhouse was my first house which I bought via FHA. After > 5 years I moved out and bought a bigger single family home. Unable to > sell it, I began renting it. The first couple were fine, then I got > the tents from hell. A series of 3 separate tents in fact, that cost > me major money to keep the house fixed up. Sure I kept the deposit and > took them to court but people who don’t own anything don’t fear court > judgments. However they will threaten to sue over the littlest of > things. Anyways, so after months of sleepless nights and maxed out > credit cards, I evicted the last group of tents, put the house up for > sale, and vowed to never rent out anything of mine again. > However the house isn’t selling and I’m offering the bear minimum I > can sell it. So I contacted the mortgager Wells Fargo and FHA to > activate some anti-forcloser protection. They are refusing to help. 12 > weeks of phone calls and I’ve been given a deaf ear all the way. I’ve > looked into refinancing but there isn’t anyway to get the payments > down to something I can afford within all my other bills. > So now I’m a few weeks late on a payment and it isn’t looking like > anything is likely to save me. Right now I see 3 things happening. > 1.      A buyer on a white horse comes riding up to buy the townhouse > within the next 45 days. Complete fantasy here > 2.      I let the bank foreclose on the townhouse. Seems to be the > most likely option but is this worse than a bankruptcy? > 3.      I file for bankruptcy. Put as far as I can tell this option > would be only if I wanted to try to keep the townhouse. Which I don’t > So any suggestions on what to do to make this less painful? > Also how bad is foreclose or bankruptcy. I know people that have > gotten credit cards and credit within weeks after completing > bankruptcy. However I’m not to concerned because the only thing I > needed credit cards was ordering online and making repairs to the > townhouse that I’m trying to get rid off. If I can’t get a gold card > for 7 years, I don’t have an issue with that. :) My biggest concern is > a new car. I did buy a car just last year so I don’t need one for > awhile but my need for a car will more than likely come up before the > 7 years is up.. > FYI I live in maryland. > Baron Calamity > "A shark on whiskey-mighty risky. But a shark on beer is a beer engineer" – Space Ghost

if the selling price minus the mortage leaves you nothing, then try this rent to own: you might be able to find someone that will go for that deal, seems like you will get a tennant with some stake in the place, will take care of it a little better, if it dont cost too much you might even put up the down paymnent for them to buy the place??? thats the problem with the town house and codo stuff, no one wants to be three inches away from the neighbors, what if they leave the tub overflow, its gonna run into your place, the neighbor might be renting and dont car if his place falls apart, problem is that your place will also fall.

Response:

I was wondering what will be the lest damaging to myself and my credit. I realize that unless a miracle happens, I’m screwed but I’m sure some ways will leave me less screwed than others. :) The short version: I have a house I can no longer make payments on, can’t sell, and the mortgage company refuses to help. With the idea that I don’t want to keep the house, what is my best option? The long version: I have a townhouse that I was renting out to other people. The townhouse was my first house which I bought via FHA. After 5 years I moved out and bought a bigger single family home. Unable to sell it, I began renting it. The first couple were fine, then I got the tents from hell. A series of 3 separate tents in fact, that cost me major money to keep the house fixed up. Sure I kept the deposit and took them to court but people who don’t own anything don’t fear court judgments. However they will threaten to sue over the littlest of things. Anyways, so after months of sleepless nights and maxed out credit cards, I evicted the last group of tents, put the house up for sale, and vowed to never rent out anything of mine again. However the house isn’t selling and I’m offering the bear minimum I can sell it. So I contacted the mortgager Wells Fargo and FHA to activate some anti-forcloser protection. They are refusing to help. 12 weeks of phone calls and I’ve been given a deaf ear all the way. I’ve looked into refinancing but there isn’t anyway to get the payments down to something I can afford within all my other bills. So now I’m a few weeks late on a payment and it isn’t looking like anything is likely to save me. Right now I see 3 things happening. 1.      A buyer on a white horse comes riding up to buy the townhouse within the next 45 days. Complete fantasy here 2.      I let the bank foreclose on the townhouse. Seems to be the most likely option but is this worse than a bankruptcy? 3.      I file for bankruptcy. Put as far as I can tell this option would be only if I wanted to try to keep the townhouse. Which I don’t So any suggestions on what to do to make this less painful? Also how bad is foreclose or bankruptcy. I know people that have gotten credit cards and credit within weeks after completing bankruptcy. However I’m not to concerned because the only thing I needed credit cards was ordering online and making repairs to the townhouse that I’m trying to get rid off. If I can’t get a gold card for 7 years, I don’t have an issue with that. :) My biggest concern is a new car. I did buy a car just last year so I don’t need one for awhile but my need for a car will more than likely come up before the 7 years is up.. FYI I live in maryland. Baron Calamity "A shark on whiskey-mighty risky. But a shark on beer is a beer engineer" – Space Ghost

Response:

Question:

Hi I had a 170k mortgage which is 3 years old. I sent some extra money towards the principal (to get rid of the pmi) and now the loan amount is 150k. My question is since I am still paying the (original amount – pmi) as monthly payment, how do I figure out when my loan period will get over (since I obviously shortened the loan period)? Can I ask the lender to recalculate the monthly payment based on the decreased principal and issue a new loan agreement? If yes what are such type of transactions called? Its not refinancing, just reducing the monthly payments based on 27 years loan, 150k principal and the same interest as original. Thanks for your inputs.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi > I had a 170k mortgage which is 3 years old. I sent some extra money > towards the principal (to get rid of the pmi) and now the loan amount > is 150k. > My question is since I am still paying the (original amount – pmi) as > monthly payment, how do I figure out when my loan period will get over > (since I obviously shortened the loan period)? > Can I ask the lender to recalculate the monthly payment based on the > decreased principal and issue a new loan agreement? If yes what are > such type of transactions called? Its not refinancing, just reducing > the monthly payments based on 27 years loan, 150k principal and the > same interest as original. > Thanks for your inputs.

You could always use a mortgage program like Micro soft Money or similar and go with a 170,000 mort. for 25 or 30 years whichever is your original loan at whatever percent and do a amoration table on it. print it up and then go back and then see what additional payments you have made, subtract these additional payments from the point you are at now and thats how much you owe.  It seems that a call to your mort. place should be alot easier, they can get into their computer and tell you if a few minutes how much you owe right away. Of course they dont know what payment is in the mail?????

Response:

I think I can help you with the first part of your question.  I used two functions in Excel.  The first was the PMT function to determine what your current payment is.  I used $170k, 7.5% interest and a 30-year loan and came up with a P&I payment of $1,188.66.  Then, I used the NPER function to determine the remaining payments left on the $150k loan.  Again, I used 7.5% interest, a payment of $1,188.66 on a $150k loan.  I came up with 249.5 months left on the $150k loan.  I hope that is what you were looking for and that it helps. Kris

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi > I had a 170k mortgage which is 3 years old. I sent some extra money > towards the principal (to get rid of the pmi) and now the loan amount > is 150k. > My question is since I am still paying the (original amount – pmi) as > monthly payment, how do I figure out when my loan period will get over > (since I obviously shortened the loan period)? > Can I ask the lender to recalculate the monthly payment based on the > decreased principal and issue a new loan agreement? If yes what are > such type of transactions called? Its not refinancing, just reducing > the monthly payments based on 27 years loan, 150k principal and the > same interest as original. > Thanks for your inputs.

Response:

>Can I ask the lender to recalculate the monthly payment based on the >decreased principal and issue a new loan agreement?

That *IS* a refinancing.  Right now you have a particular note that you have made some extra payments on.  You are still under contract to pay a certain amount each month until it is gone, which will be sooner now.   If you want new payments you want a new loan.  That is a refi. >If yes what are >such type of transactions called? Its not refinancing, just reducing >the monthly payments based on 27 years loan, 150k principal and the >same interest as original.

BTW, you can probably get less than the original intetrest rate now… -v.

Response:

> >Can I ask the lender to recalculate the monthly payment based on the >decreased principal and issue a new loan agreement? > That *IS* a refinancing.  Right now you have a particular note that > you have made some extra payments on.  You are still under contract to > pay a certain amount each month until it is gone, which will be sooner > now. > If you want new payments you want a new loan.  That is a refi.

Not necessarily, he should call his lender and ask.  When I purchased my house I had not sold my previous house.  When the old house sold I took the proceeds and applied it to the principal on the new house loan.  I then asked the lender to recalculate my monthly payments. I’m sure it is up to the individual lender if they will recalculate or not.  If the loan has been sold it may not be possible.  Call the lender and ask. Mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If yes what are >such type of transactions called? Its not refinancing, just reducing >the monthly payments based on 27 years loan, 150k principal and the >same interest as original. > BTW, you can probably get less than the original intetrest rate now… > -v.

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Question:

Is her title company also providing escrow services?  With all of my experience with refinancing, closings etc-the escrow company was ALWAYS directly in touch with the old and new mortgage companies to make SURE everything was paid when docs were signed.  Sounds very odd. Shauna       – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My neighbor is quite impatient and not the best at communicating with >people or understanding financial matters. >With that said, she refinanced her home and signed all the papers at the >title company around the 14th of this month. Yesterday (20th), she received >a bill from her old mortgage company. She called them and they said that >the old mortgage was not yet paid off. She called the title company and >they said that they had not yet received the money from the new lender from >which they could pay off the old loan. She is in a panic to say the least. >I thought that most of these things go through at the end of the month and >that perhaps she had just signed the papers early, and not to worry. She >thinks there could be a problem with the new lender and that maybe their >refinancing will *not* go through. >Anyway, does the cash usually trade hands at the end of the month? >Can the new lender back out after all the papers have been signed at the >title company?

Response:

> She is >hopping mad and I would be as well…

Here’s the question: what are her actual damages? Not achieving something one merely hoped or expected to get is likely not actionable, there has to be an enforceable right.  Now, WHO signed all those papers?  Did we see the lender also sign, or did the putative borrower do all the signing and then leave the papers for the lender to sign, and they declined?  Could make a big difference as to if there was an enforceable contract or not. Sure she should be mad nobody called and told her, but the broker seemed surprised also, so perhaps it a screw-up more than a conspiracy…. -v.

Response:

>No ‘3 day cooling off period?’  No right of recision (however it’s spelled?) >We signed everything, and left with a paper that said "If for any reason you >want to change your mind, just send this paper via registered mail to this >address and have it postmarked before the 3rd day following the close and you >won’t have to go through with it."

We just refi’d in California and we were given a cooling off period. The deal closed almost immediately therafter though – no waiting til the end of the month. — It’s always morning somewhere.

Response:

New information on my neighbors loan… (New adventures in real estate finance!) She finally found out what was going on. It seems that the *new* lender decided that her appraisal was too high and has either backed out of the deal or is not sure if they want to go through with the loan. The thing is, this was after closing and all the papers were signed! She was never notified by anyone that this was going on. Actually she signed on the 10th (correction) and she called on the 20th and found out there were problems with the lender not sending the money. One legal type told her that they (lender) have three days to cancel, and she might have a legal case against the lender. A lawyer said the lender could probably do whatever they wanted at any time. The mortgage broker seemed shocked to find out that no one had notified her, and said she would make some phone calls. Anyway, did someone do a no no in this case and does my neighbor have some sort of legal case since this was after closing and she was never notified? Or can they just cancel the deal at any time and not tell anyone? She is hopping mad and I would be as well…

Response:

> It seems like neighbor’s closing is taking a bit two long, but it > takes months and months to foreclose, and even a single month late on > a mortgage otherwise current would have little effect on a credit > rating (assuming otherwise good credit).  Nobody should panic, it is > not like someobody is gonna come down on Friday and "take" her house. > But a few phone calls are in order to the new lender!

     Whether or not it has an effect on her credit rating depends on the people to whom she owes money.  *IF* her creditor reports that "she was late with her mortgage payment", it’ll go on her credit record, which will cause hassles.  If that happens, and she later applies for anything that requires a credit check, there’s a good chance that she’ll have to explain (in writing) why she was late.  Now, I don’t know the likelihood of this happening after missing one payment, but this did happen to a previous coworker of mine (he forgot to mail in his mortgage payment *ONE* month, it got reported, and he had to explain in writing why he was late when he refinanced his house — not an huge problem, but a big hassle). —         Darryl Okahata DISCLAIMER: this message is the author’s personal opinion and does not constitute the support, opinion, or policy of Agilent Technologies, or of the little green men that have been following him all day.

Response:

>>Every place is different, but I have NEVER heard of closing on the 14th and >waiting until the end of the month for the funds. >Every closing I  have had ended with the check being given to us – >BEFORE we left the settlement room!

No ‘3 day cooling off period?’  No right of recision (however it’s spelled?) We signed everything, and left with a paper that said "If for any reason you want to change your mind, just send this paper via registered mail to this address and have it postmarked before the 3rd day following the close and you won’t have to go through with it." I thought this was a Federal thing. OTOH, during my regular house closing, yes I walked out with the check.  This 3 day deal was for a 2nd mortgage, maybe that’s the difference. — OS/X:  Because making Unix user friendly was easier than debugging Windows          Registered Linux user 220048 on http://counter.li.org

Response:

>Every closing I  have had ended with the check being given to us – >BEFORE we left the settlement room!

That is sometimes referred to as a "New York style" closing, where everybody gets together in one room and passes papers.  When you walk out it is pretty much done (someone goes down to the clerk or registry office later and files everything that needs filing, though). Many many places use escrow closings.  The parties are not in the same room at the same time.  Often a few days can pass before all sigs are collected.  A "title company" has a vastly different role in an escrow closing than it does in a "New York" closing. It seems like neighbor’s closing is taking a bit two long, but it takes months and months to foreclose, and even a single month late on a mortgage otherwise current would have little effect on a credit rating (assuming otherwise good credit).  Nobody should panic, it is not like someobody is gonna come down on Friday and "take" her house. But a few phone calls are in order to the new lender! -v.

Response:

My neighbor is quite impatient and not the best at communicating with people or understanding financial matters. With that said, she refinanced her home and signed all the papers at the title company around the 14th of this month. Yesterday (20th), she received a bill from her old mortgage company. She called them and they said that the old mortgage was not yet paid off. She called the title company and they said that they had not yet received the money from the new lender from which they could pay off the old loan. She is in a panic to say the least. I thought that most of these things go through at the end of the month and that perhaps she had just signed the papers early, and not to worry. She thinks there could be a problem with the new lender and that maybe their refinancing will *not* go through. Anyway, does the cash usually trade hands at the end of the month? Can the new lender back out after all the papers have been signed at the title company?

Response:

>My neighbor is quite impatient and not the best at communicating with >people or understanding financial matters.

She might think about taking an attorney with her to explain things.  Someone who signs papers and doesn’t understand what she’s doing is not safe. >With that said, she refinanced her home and signed all the papers at the >title company around the 14th of this month. Yesterday (20th), she received >a bill from her old mortgage company. She called them and they said that >the old mortgage was not yet paid off. She called the title company and >they said that they had not yet received the money from the new lender from >which they could pay off the old loan. She is in a panic to say the least.

It sounds like she needs a lawyer.  In PA, you get the funds 3 days after the closing.  At the close, they should ask you do you want the funds wired in or a cashier’s check.    (Well, that’s if she’s getting cash out.  But there should be a definite (short) period there before the funds are available.) Every place is different, but I have NEVER heard of closing on the 14th and waiting until the end of the month for the funds. — OS/X:  Because making Unix user friendly was easier than debugging Windows          Registered Linux user 220048 on http://counter.li.org

Response:

Question:

I  am currently in the process of refinancing. I strongly suspect my existing loan company made a mistake on my monthly payment, based on what other broker said and on some amortize table. monthly interest part for 30 year loan is calculated by:    $loan_balance * interest rate / 12 Now how much the monthly mortgage would have to be to make the loan finish in 30 years?  Is any any anylytical formular for this? YQ

Response:

If your mortgage broker or bank can’t supply you with the complete amortization tables, try a good book store which should have them for sale. Always a good reference to have until you are forever out of the mortgage scene.

Response:

You could go to: http://www.interest.com/calculators/ Then click on the first option: CALCULATE THE MONTHLY PAYMENT FOR A PARTICULAR MORTGAGE LOAN Then fill in the appropriate information and click on: Click Here For An Amortization Schedule. This will give you a month-by-month breakdown on what part of the payment goes to the principal and what goes to interest.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I  am currently in the process of refinancing. I strongly suspect my > existing loan company made a mistake on my monthly payment, > based on what other broker said and on some amortize table. > monthly interest part for 30 year loan is calculated by: >    $loan_balance * interest rate / 12 > Now how much the monthly mortgage would have to be to make the > loan finish in 30 years?  Is any any anylytical formular for this? > YQ

Response:

> Is any any anylytical formular for this?

Do you have a spreadsheet on your computer?  Lotus 123 for instance comes with a loan amortization spreadsheet where all you need to do is fill in the numbers.

Response:

> I  am currently in the process of refinancing. I strongly suspect my > existing loan company made a mistake on my monthly payment, > based on what other broker said and on some amortize table. > monthly interest part for 30 year loan is calculated by: >    $loan_balance * interest rate / 12 > Now how much the monthly mortgage would have to be to make the > loan finish in 30 years?  Is any any anylytical formular for this? > YQ

The basic annuity equation is: PV * (1 + I)^NP + PMT * (1 + I * T) * ((1 + I)^NP – 1) / I + FV = 0 where ^ = exponentiation, and PV = present value (loan balance) I = interest rate per period (annual interest rate / 12 for monthly) NP = number of payments (years * 12 for monthly) PMT = amount of each payment T = 1 for interest in advance, 0 for interest in arrears FV = future value (0 for a paid-off loan) Solving for PMT is left as an exercise. If you have Excel, the formula is given in a more easily readable form on the help page for the PV (present value) function, and the functions PMT (total payment), PPMT (principal payment), and IPMT (interest payment) give you the answers. Note that mortgage payments are typically made in arrears (type=0). — Chris Green

Response:

  Go to this website:           http://nt.mortgage101.com/partner-scripts/calculators.asp?p=amo   All kinds fo mortgage calculators. Just plug in the numbers.   Mike Benham I  am currently in the process of refinancing. I strongly suspect my existing loan company made a mistake on my monthly payment, based on what other broker said and on some amortize table. monthly interest part for 30 year loan is calculated by:    $loan_balance * interest rate / 12 Now how much the monthly mortgage would have to be to make the loan finish in 30 years?  Is any any anylytical formular for this? YQ

Response:

Thanks for all the pointers. It turns out my Mortgage company (Charter One Mortgage) charged me $124.50 extra each month for the last 9 months (from start). With this rate, I will be paying off my mortgage within 25 years instead of 30 years. I talked to 2 CharterOne representatives. One of them was able to figure the monthly interest amount for the 1st month for me. The 2nd person said that he will transfer to the finance department. Then the phone just handup on me! I haven’t lost anything – they just put extra toward my principle. I am planing to refinance, so I am not going to bother to ask them to fix the problem. Although I think I should get some discount as a 25 year loan should be cheaper than a 30 year loan. So, you may want to check an amortization table, such as following for an amortization schedule, because your payment might be wrong as well! http://www.interest.com/calculators/monthly-payment.shtml YQ

Response:

Question:

> What is a PMI minimum?

If you don’t pay at least 20% down on the house you will have to have an extra insurance policy that covers if you walk away from the mortgage. That’s PMI (<something> Mortgage Insurance).  It’s a huge rip off but the price you pay for not making the 20% down payment. — Bill Seurer     Work: seurer AT us.ibm.com      Home: Bill AT seurer.net

Response:

Private Mortgage Insurance — 757-727-1111 ext. 313

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What is a PMI minimum? > If you don’t pay at least 20% down on the house you will have to have an > extra insurance policy that covers if you walk away from the mortgage. > That’s PMI (<something> Mortgage Insurance).  It’s a huge rip off but > the price you pay for not making the 20% down payment. > — > Bill Seurer     Work: seurer AT us.ibm.com      Home: Bill AT seurer.net

Response:

Also schrieb Brian: >What is a PMI minimum?

Generally lenders want the loan/value ratio below 80%. — Microsoft gambled that making their users fault-tolerant was a better use of resources than making their software reliable.  –Paul Guertin in adfp

Response:

> It used to be that a two percentage points was the magic point to refinance > your loan.  Today that thinking is changing just a little since mortgages > are larger.  It might make sense to refinance for 1 % point — it varies. > Shop around and read the fine print.

And run the numbers through a spreadsheet’s loan amortization sheet. From that you can figure out how long the payback time is. The loan will cost $X to refinance but your payments will be $Y less. For some amount of time, uhhh, Z we’ll say,  $Y times Z will exceed $X. For example, if it costs you $5,000 to refinance but the loan payments are $125/month less you will be ahead with the refinance sometime after 40 months. And if the refinance helps you get below the PMI minimum the payback period can be much shorter. — Bill Seurer     Work: seurer AT us.ibm.com      Home: Bill AT seurer.net

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It used to be that a two percentage points was the magic point to refinance > your loan.  Today that thinking is changing just a little since mortgages > are larger.  It might make sense to refinance for 1 % point — it varies. > Shop around and read the fine print. >And run the numbers through a spreadsheet’s loan amortization sheet. >From that you can figure out how long the payback time is. >The loan will cost $X to refinance but your payments will be $Y less. >For some amount of time, uhhh, Z we’ll say,  $Y times Z will exceed $X. >For example, if it costs you $5,000 to refinance but the loan payments >are $125/month less you will be ahead with the refinance sometime after >40 months. >And if the refinance helps you get below the PMI minimum the payback >period can be much shorter.

What is a PMI minimum?

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Check out: http://411mortgagefaq.com/ It used to be that a two percentage points was the magic point to refinance your loan.  Today that thinking is changing just a little since mortgages are larger.  It might make sense to refinance for 1 % point — it varies. Shop around and read the fine print. —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How much below my interest rate would the current rate need to be > before I should consider refinancing?  It’s 7.5% now. > A few months ago I got a couple cards from people wanting me to > refinance through them to save $ on my payments.  Are these OK?  One > offers a free loan analysis. > Thanks.

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How much below my interest rate would the current rate need to be before I should consider refinancing?  It’s 7.5% now. A few months ago I got a couple cards from people wanting me to refinance through them to save $ on my payments.  Are these OK?  One offers a free loan analysis. Thanks.

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>A few months ago I got a couple cards from people wanting me to >refinance through them to save $ on my payments.  Are these OK?

Are you asking for a general blanket determination that ALL or NO PEOPLE that send cards are "OK"?  Or that the cards themselves are OK? Or that refinancing is OK? How about, sometimes it is, sometimes it isn’t.  Some cards are OK, some are not.  Some people are OK, some are not. ;-) -v.

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I am about to refinance my 11 month old mortgage and I would like to know if it makes sense to do so. I currently have an FHA adjustable at 7.75% and I was told by my Realtor that regardless of interest rate that it would go up a percent in a years time which is in June. So she said she can get me a fixed rate at 7.5%. Is it worth to refinance? — Do You Have a TechieGuy? Computer Support For Small Offices www.myTechieGuy.Com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->A few months ago I got a couple cards from people wanting me to >refinance through them to save $ on my payments.  Are these OK? > Are you asking for a general blanket determination that ALL or NO > PEOPLE that send cards are "OK"?  Or that the cards themselves are OK? > Or that refinancing is OK? > How about, sometimes it is, sometimes it isn’t.  Some cards are OK, > some are not.  Some people are OK, some are not. > ;-) > -v.

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Also schrieb myTechieGuy.Com: >I am about to refinance my 11 month old mortgage and I would like to know if >it makes sense to do so. >I currently have an FHA adjustable at 7.75% and I was told by my Realtor >that regardless of interest rate that it would go up a percent in a years >time which is in June. >So she said she can get me a fixed rate at 7.5%. >Is it worth to refinance?

I would think twice about refinancing with someone who suggested this when that person has a vested interest in your refi effort.  Assuming, of course, that your realtor is moonlighting as a mortgage broker.  A deal which PEGS my bullshit detector.   I would count all my fingers after shaking hands with this person. Having said that, I’m toying with a refi of a decent first and a usurious 2nd. Waiting to see what the appraisal shows.  It’s not costing me anything upfront because the mortgage broker’s a friend of mine and he’s waiving a lot of his costs. I’d also consider it seriously if only to get off the ARM and onto a fixed rate mortgage.  But for heaven’s sake get other quotes.  Don’t go with just this person.  I was quoted a jumbo at 7.25% so rates do vary. — Microsoft gambled that making their users fault-tolerant was a better use of resources than making their software reliable.  –Paul Guertin in adfp

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