Question:
> > How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? > How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it. > Try searching "central vacuum" with any number of search engines. Many > sites have detailed installation instructions. If you’re reasonably > handy, have access to your attic, and a partner, it’s less than a day’s > job (depending on the number of outlets. I’d guess professional > installation runs about $250.
I don’t know anyone who would do a professional day’s job for $250 in my area. I had trouble finding someone to do the work at all, partially due to the extremely high building rate here. One man offered to install it for $650, quoting $150 per inlet and $200 for a VacPan. I balked at that, and a friend installed it for $400. In my case I didn’t have the time to do it, so I felt it was worth paying someone. The electrician also wired it for 110, but that was lost in the entire house wiring price (new construction). By the way, I don’t really use the VacPan much. It’s nice for dry spills, but getting the hose out isn’t much more trouble than getting a broom and sweeping to the VacPan. Just a toy. I got the cloth hose cover, and installed it, but I’m not sure I like it. The cheap material mars the (painted white) baseboard when I pull it around a corner. It was a hassle to install. It may make the hose a little easier to handle, softer. I worry about hearing loss, so the quieter operation of a central vac is nice, and the dust going outside keeps the house clean and fresh. (A HEPA filter would do that too.) Mine is an Electrolux, and I’m happy with it, but it sure did cost a lot. I’d probably do it again.
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>>1) More powerful motor >It has to be in order to suck efficiently thru up to 100′ of tubing >and pipe. The actual "suck zone" at the head doesn’t seem any stronger >than a good upright.
I’m glad to see people talking about this issue, but I’d be unhappy to see it devolve into the "one true vacuum" debate. What suits one person does not suit another. In some cases it is important to realize that what aggravates one person about a particular system is not something that afflicts all other modems of that particular system. For instance, the upright that I had before my current one had an extremely difficult to change bag, no hose, and no on-board tools. We were very careful when buying the new one to get one that eliminated these aggravation deficiencies, and vacuuming is now much less of a horrid chore. I still want a central vac though. :) But it would be unfair of me to attribute the shortcomings of that first vac to all uprights. That being said, there are some facts that do affect all central vac systems that might be hard to distinguish from things affecting only particular models. In general, central vacs are superior at "suckage." There are two standard ways of measuring "suckage", inches of lift and cfm. Inches of lift is a measure of static suck power, you measure how high the motor can lift a column of water at standard atmospheric pressure. The amount of hose or tubing between the motor and measuring point will not affect this measurement. Cfm means cubic feet per minute, and is a measure of how much air the motor can move, and will be affected by the amount and degree of bending of hose or pipe in the system. In general, central vacs outperform portable vacs on both of these two measurements, though some high end canister vacs do better than the lowest end central vacs. However, neither measurement is a foolproof way of determining how well a system will clean. Given equal measurements, and using only the hose, a 1 inch hose will clean better than a 2 inch hose. That’s because the motor will have to pull air though the 1 inch hose faster to meet the same cfm measurement. And air speed is a big determinant of cleaning power. The air rushing by at high velocity is what moves particles into the vacuum. Your furnace fan might be capable of some really high cfm, but it doesn’t suck like a vacuum because the ducts are so wide. A poorly designed attachment set can make a really good motor perform badly, because it either allows too much or too little air to develop optimum air flow velocity. Some central vac attachment sets include a "turbine" power head, which uses the power of the air flow to spin the beater bar. This steals suck power, degrading system performance. The electrically powered beater heads do not have this problem. Another factor that can cause a central vac to perform poorly is leaks in the tubing, usually because the installation was done poorly. >2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt >Agreed, but bags contain most of the dust.
The exhaust being sent outside is often frequently touted, but it is important to realize that not only is the dirt sent outside, but also a lot of the air in your house. That air will get replaced somehow, and the source of that air and the filtering applied to it should be considered what is "recirculated" to the house. Central vacs can be powerful enough to cause downdrafting of fireplace and gas appliance flues, possibly bringing smoke or carbon monoxide into the house. Many newer houses have air exchangers that bring outside air into the house continually, and these go really well with central vacs, helping to reduce or entirely eliminate both of these side effects of central vacs. >3) I much prefer carrying a hose then dragging a cannister which >invariably hits furniture >I would much rather wheel around an upright (not a cannister) than >haul around a big clump of tangled up hose. I actually like the >uprights with a integrated suction wand for hard to get areas. The >centrals can only do this by changing heads.
This is really an issue of style, personal preference, what have you. There’s no way getting around the fact that some people think canisters and uprights are "bulky, clunky beasts" and some people think the long hoses are "a tangle-prone pain in the neck". But I will say that things like swiveling connects, quick connects, and self-standing power heads alleviate much of the hose aggravation. >4) I have an outlet in the garge for cleaning our cars >Yes, it might save from getting a separate shop vac for the garage but >I want one anyway for big "sucker upper" jobs.
I dunno if this is true of all shop vacs (other than that new QSP thing), but ours is so noisy we need ear protection to run it. We also need a longer hose to reach all areas in the car. I know I’d be more willing to clean the car out more often if the process were less aggravating. For me, a central vac outlet goes in the garage, even though we already have a shop vac. >6) Adds value to the home >I doubt it’s cost is 100% transferred to value. I bet this is one of >the poorer ROI home improvements.
I agree. You should get a central vac because you like it and it will make vacuuming that much less of a hassle, even enjoyable, not because of any kind of value investment in the home. After all, the only part you really can’t take with you if the buyers don’t want a central vac is the pipe in the wall, and that’s cheap.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? > > How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it. > Try searching "central vacuum" with any number of search engines. Many > sites have detailed installation instructions. If you’re reasonably > handy, have access to your attic, and a partner, it’s less than a day’s > job (depending on the number of outlets. I’d guess professional > installation runs about $250. > I don’t know anyone who would do a professional day’s job for $250 in my > area.
Gee, that’s $30 bucks an hour. Here in Arizona that’s considered a gold mine in the construction business… > I had trouble finding someone to do the work at all, partially due to > the extremely high building rate here. One man offered to install it for > $650, quoting $150 per inlet and $200 for a VacPan. I balked at that, > and a friend installed it for $400. In my case I didn’t have the time to > do it, so I felt it was worth paying someone. The electrician also wired > it for 110, but that was lost in the entire house wiring price (new > construction).
$400 for *new* construction? Mark Atanowicz
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Whether or not central vac installation is a DIY job depends on your house’s size, construction details, and your carpentry/plumbing skills. The first house I installed in was a single story with basement. That was a breeze, using floor mounted outlets. I’d guess that the professional installation cost would have been minimal, say half the cost of the hardware. My current house is of timber frame design, with two stories plus basement and few hollow walls. One plumbing run goes right up through the living room to a floor-mounted outlet on the 2nd floor; I covered the first floor piping to look like part of the timber framing, and it is truly invisible, even on close inspection. Another goes up through a first floor closet to a second floor outlet, once again in the floor. If this installation had been done professionally, I’m sure the cost would have exceeded the cost of the hardware. The poster’s comment about installing the outlets upside-down is a good one. I’ve observed the same thing. -Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->We’re in our third house with central vac. First was a Sears unit. It was >surprisingly excellent. Second was from Galaxy. OK. Current house has >Vacuflo, the best by far. I installed the systems in the first and third >houses. > How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? > How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it. > Thanks > Somesh > — > NEC Systems Inc., 609-734-6115 (Voice) > 4 Independence Way, 609-734-6001 (FAX) > Princeton, NJ 08540 > How’s my posting? Call 1-800-DEV-NULL > #include <std-disclaimer.h> > I speak for myself. I do not speak for NEC and NEC does not speak for me.
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We’re in our third house with central vac. First was a Sears unit. It was surprisingly excellent. Second was from Galaxy. OK. Current house has Vacuflo, the best by far. I installed the systems in the first and third houses. The Vacuflo system has the on/off switch in the hose handle. The rug beater runs by vacuum power, and so does not entail running 120v power to the vacuum outlet or having a separate power cord. It works extremely well. No bags, exhausts to outside. Non-crushable hose. One advantage no one mentioned (I think): Central vac is quiet! You can hear the phone, the radio, the baby, yourself think. I would not consider living in a house without central vac. The hose can be a nuisance, but it is much less of a nuisance than the alternatives. -Larry – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. > Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. > The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? > Can I expect clogged lines? > Thanks in advance. > — > Pat Lundrigan
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>We’re in our third house with central vac. First was a Sears unit. It was >surprisingly excellent. Second was from Galaxy. OK. Current house has >Vacuflo, the best by far. I installed the systems in the first and third >houses.
How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it. Thanks Somesh — NEC Systems Inc., 609-734-6115 (Voice) 4 Independence Way, 609-734-6001 (FAX) Princeton, NJ 08540 How’s my posting? Call 1-800-DEV-NULL #include <std-disclaimer.h> I speak for myself. I do not speak for NEC and NEC does not speak for me.
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> >We’re in our third house with central vac. First was a Sears unit. It was >surprisingly excellent. Second was from Galaxy. OK. Current house has >Vacuflo, the best by far. I installed the systems in the first and third >houses. > How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? > How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it.
Try searching "central vacuum" with any number of search engines. Many sites have detailed installation instructions. If you’re reasonably handy, have access to your attic, and a partner, it’s less than a day’s job (depending on the number of outlets. I’d guess professional installation runs about $250. Mark Atanowicz
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>I gotta agree about the dust. I decided to do something about it while >watching my wife vacuum with our upright in a sunlit room.
Best solution here is to sit in the neighborhood pub until she’s done. ;-) — Dave Clark Opinions expressed are my own. Any resemblance to other opinions, living or dead, are purely coincidental. Iran this threw my spell check her an it toll me it was all write.
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I installed my Galaxie and 3 outlets myself in a weekend. It arrived via UPS with all 8 ft. pipe lengths, fittings, wire, glue etc. necessary for installation. I only had to buy a hole bit and some 120V power wiring. My house is 2 story w/basement and is 90 yrs old. You only need to run enough outlets central to the living space to reach all corners 30 ft away. We needed only one upstairs, ran the pipe thru a heating duct. Downstairs and the basement was easy. The easiest installation would be a single story rancher with a basement. The pipe used is thinwall PVC; cut with a hacksaw, ream the edge smooth, and it glues together in minutes. Tedious part is patching up when thru. If you use the combination outlets with power plug, install them upside down – its easier to see and align the power plug when its on top. You cant twist it to align it as it would damage the pins. — Richard I also hate spam so discard the stop from my address – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->How difficult is it to install it yourself? Is this a DYI job? >How much would it cost to retrofit if a professional had to do do it. >Thanks >Somesh >– -= >NEC Systems Inc., 609-734-6115 (Voice) >4 Independence Way, 609-734-6001 (FAX) >Princeton, NJ 08540 >How’s my posting? Call 1-800-DEV-NULL >#include <std-disclaimer.h> >I speak for myself. I do not speak for NEC and NEC does not speak for me.
-=
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I gotta agree about the dust. I decided to do something about it while watching my wife vacuum with our upright in a sunlit room. The standard vacuum bag is no match to a HEPA bag. The central vac eliminates any recirculating dust that used to settle everywhere, and there is no vacuum smell afterword. It has also helped my allergies. The issue mentioned about bringing in outside air is a no brainer. He better shut off his range hood and bathroom fan, and keep his doors locked, too, if he’s worried about that. My Galaxie vac is about 2 yrs old and does a great cleaning job. Our hose incorporates the switch and electric wires and is extremely lightweight, doesnt kink or scratch furniture, and slithers around with ease. The motor brushes are about the only thing that need to be replaced, probably every 10-20 yrs. — Richard I also hate spam so discard the stop from my address – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt >Agreed, but bags contain most of the dust. >Do this little test. Take a bright desk lamp and put it next to the exhaust >of your vacuum cleaner (in the case of an upright just shine it on the bag) >turn on the vacuum and see how much dust is blown back into your room. If >it is a level you are happy with then you don’t need to exhaust it outside. >I have only seen minimal dust on very high end electrolux systems – and they >are comparably priced to central systems, and a lot tougher to lug around. >I suspect HEPA systems are also excellent, but they are very expensive. >I’m in my first house with central vac. I’ll never own another house >without it. >– >Dave Clark >Opinions expressed are my own. Any resemblance to other opinions, living or >dead, are purely coincidental. >Iran this threw my spell check her an it toll me it was all write.
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> And I’d > prefer a central vac canister that used BAGS! but I’d don’t know if any > do.
Hoover for one and I’m pretty sure there’s a couple more. Mark Atanowicz
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>>2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt >Agreed, but bags contain most of the dust.
Do this little test. Take a bright desk lamp and put it next to the exhaust of your vacuum cleaner (in the case of an upright just shine it on the bag) turn on the vacuum and see how much dust is blown back into your room. If it is a level you are happy with then you don’t need to exhaust it outside. I have only seen minimal dust on very high end electrolux systems – and they are comparably priced to central systems, and a lot tougher to lug around. I suspect HEPA systems are also excellent, but they are very expensive. I’m in my first house with central vac. I’ll never own another house without it. — Dave Clark Opinions expressed are my own. Any resemblance to other opinions, living or dead, are purely coincidental. Iran this threw my spell check her an it toll me it was all write.
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Our house came with system installed by previous owner. I guess they went cheapo with an unelectric hose. So the power head has this 36 ft power cord that runs along with the hose. The "sock" holds the power cord and the hose together for about 85% of the hose run. I can think of no other useful purpose one of these socks could have. Now some personal opinions. I was suprised how unthrilled we were with the central vac system. We have a quite powerful canister vacuum from our previous place. It certainly cleans better than our central vac. Lugging the hose is almost as much a chore as using the canister. The canister vac gets caught on furniture, but the long central vac hose can kink up. Although I’d say the central’s long hose is marginally easier, my wife disagrees. (I wouldn’t recommend a canister either, I’d consider an upright with onboard hose and tools, one for each floor.) We have an outlet in the garage also, but I don’t want to drag the hose I use inside the house through around my garage or outside. An additional hose is no cheaper than a good shop vac. No bags, that’s true for ours. Quite frankly, I think anyone who feels that not having an easy to change vacuum bag in a vacuum cleaner is a good thing, is a moron. Or maybe they are rich enough to have someone else empty their vacuums for them, in which case they do their own vacuuming as a fun hobby. As for adding value to the house. Well when we moved into this house we brought our vacuum cleaner with us. We didn’t lose a cent. The people whom we bought this house from took quite a loss on it, I’m pretty sure they don’t think they recooped any of the money they spent on this central system. Just more hard earned money down the tubes from their point of view. However there is one area where the central sytem beats all, Stairs. There is no question having a hose long enough to tackle a complete set of stairs is the ideal way to go. Now I think some of our dissatisfaction is because our system it is bottom of the line. If I were building a house I would plan for central vac. I’d put the hose outlet in a cupboard or closet where I could store the hose. I’d want an on/off switch on the handle, so I could leave it plugged in. Our’s turns on when the hose is connected and the hose must be disconnected to turn it off. A drag when your 30 feet away and want to stop for a few minutes to do something else. I’d go for the same setup on each floor, even if I couldn’t afford separate hoses and attachments at the time. If I start upstairs and finish downstairs, I’d like to be able to put the hose away downstairs and vise versa. And I’d prefer a central vac canister that used BAGS! but I’d don’t know if any do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->We’re buying a central vacuum unit to install in our pre-plumbed house. The >local Electrolux store recommends that we buy a "sock" to put over the hose so >that it doesn’t damage furniture and rounded wall corners. >How necessary is one of these "socks"? > Not at all, IMHO – we’ve had our central vac for over 3 years, and > I’ve yet to see any damage that I can attribute to abrasion by the > hose. > Cheers, > David
– Jeff Cohen itv, Instructional Television, 625 Southam Hall Carleton University, Ottawa, Ont, Canada, K1S 5B6 tel: (613) 520-2600 ext. 8105 fax: (613) 520-4368
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> >FWIW, here are my reasons for installing one: >1) More powerful motor > It has to be in order to suck efficiently thru up to 100′ of tubing > and pipe.
In actual use, airflow rates are low and the length of tubing is not that significant. The real factor is the suction generated at these flow rates which is a function of motor power along with impeller fan design. > The actual "suck zone" at the head doesn’t seem any stronger > than a good upright.
Take your hose attachment and place your palm over the opening, leaving a small gap to simulate actual usage. >3) I much prefer carrying a hose then dragging a cannister which >invariably hits furniture > I would much rather wheel around an upright (not a cannister) than > haul around a big clump of tangled up hose. I actually like the > uprights with a integrated suction wand for hard to get areas. The > centrals can only do this by changing heads.
I wear a tool pouch with all the various attachment. What I like about the CV compared to an upright is my ability to move a coffee table and sweep simultaneously, something that’s hard to do with an upright. Mark Atanowicz
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>We’re buying a central vacuum unit to install in our pre-plumbed house. The >local Electrolux store recommends that we buy a "sock" to put over the hose so >that it doesn’t damage furniture and rounded wall corners. >How necessary is one of these "socks"?
Not at all, IMHO – we’ve had our central vac for over 3 years, and I’ve yet to see any damage that I can attribute to abrasion by the hose. Cheers, David
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> The beater power source is incorporated into the outlet so I don’t have > an issue with plugs.
Except in New York City 
We’re putting a central vac into a house we’re having built now. We wanted the outlets with the electric power built in, but the fixtures only come in plastic, for use with romex. NYC electric code requires metal electrical boxes and BX, so we couldn’t install the electrified vacuum outlets. Bummer.
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These points are not all really true, here is why: >1) More powerful motor
Depends – not always true. >2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt
Misleading – Usual typical sales pitch. A HEPA type vaccum, recirculates clean air inside the house, while a whole house vaccum exchanges air with what’s outside. In the summer, for example, you bring in pollen, dust and whatever is available in the ambient air as you take out the air inside the house. >3) I much prefer carrying a hose then dragging a cannister which >invariably hits furniture
As another stated, the hoses do tend to be a pain as well. >4) I have an outlet in the garge for cleaning our cars
And a cheap $19 bucks small vacuum gets around my garage too. >5) No more vacuum bags
A Fantom Vaccum, for example, has NO filters either – although you do have to replace the HEPA filter every so many years. >6) Adds value to the home
True in most cases. Joseph
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Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? Can I expect clogged lines? Thanks in advance. — Pat Lundrigan
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> Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. > Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. > The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? > Can I expect clogged lines? > Thanks in advance.
I installed a central vacuum (Sears) in our house about 15 years ago and it’s still going strong. None of the lines have ever clogged up. Did have to replace the Power Mate unit after it got tangled up with a shag rug one day. Might have been able to repair it instead of replacing it but decided to get a newer version. Cost was $123.00 including tax. Don, retired in Tracy, Calif.
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>Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. >Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. >The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? >Can I expect clogged lines?
To let you know my perspective, I intend to install a central vac as soon as finances permit. You do need to make sure that it fits your cleaning style though, some people are rather aggravated by the long hose, others prefer the usually light weight hose to pushing an upright or tugging around a canister. The tubes, or lines, can be considered a permanent fixture, I’ve never heard of any getting clogged in a troublesome way. The wall outlets have a bend right there at the outlet, and some are designed slightly smaller than the main line, so that if you suck up anything that plugs the line, you just pull the hose out of the wall, and the item is right there where you can just grab it. The power units, normally situated either in a basement or garage, will wear out over time, but they generally last much longer than a portable vac. It’s certainly possible that the power unit in the 30 year old house is original, you’d have to check the unit itself to know that. The suction and cleaning power from a central vac unit is generally superior to portable vacs. Nowadays they come with some pretty nice features, such as self-standing power heads, "dustpan" or "grate" outlets that you can install in places like kitchens where you just sweep stuff into them or wipe your shoes on them and then kick the toe button to suck stuff away.
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We’re buying a central vacuum unit to install in our pre-plumbed house. The local Electrolux store recommends that we buy a "sock" to put over the hose so that it doesn’t damage furniture and rounded wall corners. How necessary is one of these "socks"? *** My e-mail address is k7may at aol dot com. The other text in my posting address is to keep spammers away! ***
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I have a home that had a central vac built in when it was built in ‘91. (previous owner chose it) I think these things are a joke!! I would never have one installed. You have a huge tangled up mess of vacuum hose and then still need to plug into AC for the power head. I see absolutely no benefit using these over a good old Hoover. The conventional vac’s seem to clean a little better anyway. If there’s a compelling benefit to having a central vac, I have yet to figure out what it is. (it’s quieter but that’s hardly compelling enough to justify the cost and installation) P.S. I’ve never had a clogged hose – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. >Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. >The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? >Can I expect clogged lines? >Thanks in advance.
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> I have a home that had a central vac built in when it was built in > ‘91. (previous owner chose it) > I think these things are a joke!! I would never have one installed. > You have a huge tangled up mess of vacuum hose and then still need to > plug into AC for the power head. I see absolutely no benefit using > these over a good old Hoover. The conventional vac’s seem to clean a > little better anyway. > If there’s a compelling benefit to having a central vac, I have yet to > figure out what it is. (it’s quieter but that’s hardly compelling > enough to justify the cost and installation)
FWIW, here are my reasons for installing one: 1) More powerful motor 2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt 3) I much prefer carrying a hose then dragging a cannister which invariably hits furniture 4) I have an outlet in the garge for cleaning our cars 5) No more vacuum bags 6) Adds value to the home The beater power source is incorporated into the outlet so I don’t have an issue with plugs. Mark Atanowicz
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> >Was house shopping last week and saw one house with Central Vacuum. >Any thoughts on the subject? I have no idea on the usefulness of this. >The house is about 30 years old, do central vacs last that long? >Can I expect clogged lines? > To let you know my perspective, I intend to install a central vac as > soon as finances permit. You do need to make sure that it fits your > cleaning style though, some people are rather aggravated by the long > hose, others prefer the usually light weight hose to pushing an upright > or tugging around a canister.
<snip> We bought a house a year ago with a central vac, fully expecting to dislike it . . .one year later, we love the central vac system. Superior suction and believe it or not we find it convienient. One nice thing is that because our entire lower level is tile and wood flooring, the central vac allows us to clean large areas witout unplugging, plugging etc. Two outlets downstairs does the trick. A year ago I would never have imagined loving the central vac but we do. CK
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>FWIW, here are my reasons for installing one: >1) More powerful motor
It has to be in order to suck efficiently thru up to 100′ of tubing and pipe. The actual "suck zone" at the head doesn’t seem any stronger than a good upright. >2) Exhaust is sent outside; no recirculation of dirt
Agreed, but bags contain most of the dust. >3) I much prefer carrying a hose then dragging a cannister which >invariably hits furniture
I would much rather wheel around an upright (not a cannister) than haul around a big clump of tangled up hose. I actually like the uprights with a integrated suction wand for hard to get areas. The centrals can only do this by changing heads. >4) I have an outlet in the garge for cleaning our cars
Yes, it might save from getting a separate shop vac for the garage but I want one anyway for big "sucker upper" jobs. >5) No more vacuum bags
Agreed >6) Adds value to the home
I doubt it’s cost is 100% transferred to value. I bet this is one of the poorer ROI home improvements. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->The beater power source is incorporated into the outlet so I don’t have >an issue with plugs. >Mark Atanowicz
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. –Steve 