Question:

I’d like to make some forced air panels cheaply – hopefully the cost can be recovered by the amount of heat they produce. The most basic design I can think of is a flat piece of 10mm chipboard, painted black, with sidewalls and baffles about 100mm high and then covered with a single layer of polycarbonate. The cross sectional area of each air run would be the same as the the area of the tubes feeding the panel. Would any of the following enhancements improve the efficiency of the panel enough to justify the extra expense? – Extra insulation – thicker board or some other material? – Double glazing – an extra layer of polycarbonate with (say) a 10mm air gap? – A black painted metal mesh attached to the backing board – this would cause better heat conduction becase a) metal is a better conductor than wood and b) it would also cause more turbulance in the air passing over the collector surface. Thanks NickW

Response:

> I’d like to make some forced air panels cheaply – hopefully the cost > can be recovered by the amount of heat they produce. > The most basic design I can think of is a flat piece of 10mm chipboard, > painted black, with sidewalls and baffles about 100mm high and then > covered with a single layer of polycarbonate. The cross sectional area > of each air run would be the same as the the area of the tubes feeding > the panel. > Would any of the following enhancements improve the efficiency of the > panel enough to justify the extra expense? > – Extra insulation – thicker board or some other material?

The sides and back are usually insulated to about 1 inch.  You won’t gain a great deal by going to more insulation.  If the back is integrated with a house wall, then you don’t gain a great deal by insulating it at all. > – Double glazing – an extra layer of polycarbonate with (say) a 10mm > air gap?

Double glazing and/or selective coating on the absorber both help by reducing losses out the glazing.   But, both also add to the cost. You may be just as well off keeping the collector simple and making it a bit larger to make up for the lower efficiency. > – A black painted metal mesh attached to the backing board – this would > cause better heat conduction becase a) metal is a better conductor than > wood and b) it would also cause more turbulance in the air passing over > the collector surface.

As you can see from looking at the links below, the two most common designs are the flow through absorber in which the air enters the collector on the south (glazing) side of the absorber, and flows through the absorber to pick up heat.  Absorber materials for this type range from expanded metal mesh, window screen, polyester felt, furnace filter media… — there is some active discussion on which works the best, but they all probably work OK.  In the other design, a solid metal absorber is used, and air flows on the  back (non-glazed) side of the absorber picking up heat from it.  Again, there is some discussion on which design is better — I think most favor the flow through absorber. I think that if an air collector works for your house geometry, that it can be very good choice.  It is simple, inexpensive, easy to build, little maintenance…  The payback period for a build-it-yourself air collector can be as little as a couple years. There has been a lot of work done on air collectors, you might take a look here for some of the designs that have been developed: http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/Space_Heating.htm Here is a book on air collectors of various types you can download for free (courtesy of the authors) — it has a lot of hands-on information: http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/SolAirHtSysBook/Sol… Make sure you do some type of solar site survey to make sure that you really get sun on the collector during the times of year you want it to work — here is one: http://www.builditsolar.com/SiteSurvey/site_survey.htm Gary www.BuildItSolar.com "Build It Yourself" Solar Projects

Response:

Question:

I recently viewed a SDHW system in Halifax and found the following: A system based abound the Thermo-dynamics solar boiler configuration where the two dual element electric hot water tanks were connected in parallel and the solar boiler’s thermosyphoning heat exchanger was connected between the hot and cold (colt at the drain port) of said tanks. The top electric heating elements where active. Can anyone tell me why the installation of this system (to unsuspecting home owners at that) is plain criminal? -Andy

Response:

Hey Andy. I was wondering why you thought it was criminal? I’m actually pretty familiar with TD’s solar boilers, having installed/repaired quite a few myself. Of the many varieties of SDHW units out there, so far, they’re my favorite. Odd that the tanks were in parallel, not series, though; usually you use one tank for pre-heat for the active tank, with the solar boiler installed on the pre-heat tank. What was the method used to activate the glycol recirc loop? There are alot of mistakes an amateur installer can make; what were the ones here? DJ

Response:

> use one tank for pre-heat for the active tank, with the solar boiler > installed on the pre-heat tank. > What was the method used to activate the glycol recirc loop? There are > alot of mistakes an amateur installer can make; what were the ones > here? > DJ

The installer is not an amature by any means. This is a pretty high end home. The TD solar boiler sysem when installed as intended is fantastic. It’s highly efficient and a mature product with all the bugs worked out. However, if you don’t use the flat plate collector in a low temperature preheat configutation (series tank) you get zip for performance. By having both tanks in parallel the collector must ALWAYS collect heat at temperatures greater than 140F. Since the collector must be quite hot and the outside is relatively cold the overall efficiency of the collector is very very poor. The parallel tank configuration can only deliver about 5% of the heat energy as compared to the series design. This means that effectively the unsuspecting homeowener paid about 20x to much for their SDHW system and their electricity consumption will only be reduced by 5% of what they expected. Not so good.

Response:

So what you’re saying is that what I found "odd", the parallel tankage, is what you found "criminal". But, as a matter of fact, yes, the installer, while perhaps a professional plumber, is most definitely an amateur SDHW installer. It doesn’t matter how much they were paid, it’s what they left behind ;-) . Did anyone know why the installer departed from the installation standard? DJ

Response:

Well perhaps criminal is a bit strong. But if it were my system and I was gettign 5% performance I’d feel pretty ripped off. The system designer has been at this 20+ years. The installation also features a heat exchange loop for space heating on one of the tanks. This  why the traditional scheme was avoided. The idea is that one tank is for space heating and the other is for DHW – but they are still in parallel excapt that the DHW out and heat exchange out ports are in different locations. The space heating tank temp goes up and down significantly as the heat from the tank is cooled by the space being heated. It is like draining a capacitor every time the heat is removed. Anyway, I am amazed that people who have been at this for many years don’t get the basics of efficient solar thermal design. -Andy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So what you’re saying is that what I found "odd", the parallel tankage, > is what you found "criminal". But, as a matter of fact, yes, the > installer, while perhaps a professional plumber, is most definitely an > amateur SDHW installer. It doesn’t matter how much they were paid, it’s > what they left behind ;-) . > Did anyone know why the installer departed from the installation > standard? > DJ

Response:

Did the space heating system have the "panel per 1000 sq ft" industry rule of thumb, plus a "panel per adult in the household" as well? Installers do face hurdles. Sticker shock from the client that reduces ideal setups, space constraints at the tankage location, alot of things can get us straying from the ideal path. But this system needed, worst case, a 300$ NIB unplugged electic hot water tank to act as a preheater for the DHW, and, as you said, everything would have been alot better. A few weeks ago, I got brought in on an emergency call to fix a SDHW system (not a TD this time), that a licenced plumber, who had been "installing them for years" pooched really stupidly. Co-incidentally, it also had a second tank with a heat exchanger, rigged, this instance, to an outside wood furnace. But THREE tanks total in this case. The wood furnace on one, feeding DHW to a preheat with two panels, then the powered tank. A nice system in that the wood stove made DHW in the winter, the panels did it in the summer. Everything manifolded. Very nicely plumbed.  The errors came in the installation of the boiler unit, stupid piping errors. As you say, this isn’t simple plumbing. You have to "get it" to do it well. And there are, it seems, an awful lot of professionals out there that just don’t get it.  So, is this client installation getting fixed? DJ

Response:

> : oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type > Not middle of the road…just a sweet little ol’ Texas girl… > Lane, OF and then some, f3as3 > Smoke-free long enough pal. > Cigs not smoked: a ton. Money saved:  a truckload.

You are partially right.  A sweet used-to-be-little ol’ Texas girl… hee hee With hope and heart, Kathleen

Response:

> oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type > With hope and heart, > Kathleen

Yup.  Me too.  Tweety with Pepe rising.  This was fun.  Thanks Kathleen.  I guess the main thing is that it doesn’t matter who we are, just so long as we’re happy with who we are ?  :-) Eddie

Response:

: oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type Not middle of the road…just a sweet little ol’ Texas girl… Lane, OF and then some, f3as3 Smoke-free long enough pal. Cigs not smoked: a ton. Money saved:  a truckload. Read my Diary of a Quitter: http://www.bluethunder.org/quitterhome.html We cannot all do great things, but we can do small things with great love.     – Mother Theresa : With hope and heart, : Kathleen : : > Number your paper 1-10 and answer honestly!! Don’t read ahead now! : > : > Ever wonder which cartoon character you are most like? Well, a team of : > researchers got together and analyzed the personalities of cartoon characters. : > The gathered information has been incorporated into this quiz. Answer each : > question with the choice that most describes you, then add up the points that : > correspond with your answers. : > : > 1) Which describes your perfect date? : > a) Candlelight dinner for two : > b) Amusement Park : > c) Rollerblading in the park : > d) Rock Concert : > e) See a movie : > : > 2) What is your favorite type of music? : > a) Rock and Roll : > b) Alternative : > c) Soft Rock : > d) Classical : > e) Popular : > : > 3) What is your favorite type of movie? : > a) Comedy : > b) Horror : > c) Musical : > d) Romance : > e) Documentary : > : > 4) Which of the following jobs would you choose if you were given only : > these : > : > : > choices? : > a) Waiter/Waitress : > b) Sports Player : > c) Teacher : > d) Policeman : > e) Bartender : > : > 5) Which would you rather do if you had an hour to waste? : > a) work out : > b) Read : > c) Watch TV : > d) Listen to the radio : > e) Sleep : > : > 6) Of the following colors, which do you like the best? : > a) yellow : > b) white : > c) sky blue : > d) teal : > e) red : > : > 7) Which one of the following would you like to eat right now? : > a) ice cream : > b) pizza : > c) sushi : > d) pasta : > e) salad : > : > 8) Which is your favorite holiday? : > a) Halloween : > b) Christmas : > c) New Year’s : > d) Valentine’s Day : > e) Thanksgiving : > : > 9) If you could go to any of the following places, which would it be? : > a) Paris : > b) Spain : > c) Las Vegas : > d) Hawaii : > e) Hollywood : > : > 10) Of the following, who would you rather spend time with? : > a) Someone who is smart : > b) Someone with good looks : > c) Someone who is a party animal : > d) Someone who has fun all the time : > e) Someone who is very emotional : > : > Now total up your points and find your character below: : > 1.)  a-4  b-2  c-5  d-1  e-3 : > 2.)  a-2  b-1  c-4  d-5  e-3 : > 3.)  a-2  b-1  c-3  d-4  e-5 : > 4.)  a-4  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-1 : > 5.)  a-5  b-4  c-2  d-1  e-3 : > 6.)  a-1  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-4 : > 7.)  a-3  b-2  c-1  d-4  e-5 : > 8.)  a-1  b-3  c-2  d-4  e-5 : > 9.)  a-4  b-5  c-1  d-4  e-3 : > 10.) a-5  b-2  c-1  d-3  e-4 : > : > (10-17 points) You are TAZ: : > You are wild and crazy and you know it. You know how to have fun, but you may : > take it to extremes. You know what you are doing though, and are much in : control : > of your own life. People don’t always see things your way, but that doesn’t : mean : > that you should do away with your beliefs. Try to remember that your wild : spirit : > can lead to hurting yourself and others. : > : > (18-26 points) You are Bugs Bunny: : > You are fun, friendly, and popular. You are a real crowd pleaser. You have : > probably been out on the town your share of times, yet you come home with the : > values that your mother taught you. Marriage and children are important to : you, : > but only after you have fun. Don’t let the people you please influence you to : > stray. : > : > (27-34 points) You are Tweety: : > You are cute, and everyone loves you. You are a best friend that no one takes : > the chance of losing. You never hurt feelings and seldom have your own : feelings : > hurt. Life is a breeze. You are witty, and calm most of the time.  Just keep : > clear of back stabbers, and you are worry-free. : > : > (35-42 points) You are Peppe Le Pew: (without the smell) You are a lover. : > Romance, flowers, and wine are all you need to enjoy yourself. You are serious : > about all commitments. A family person. You call your Mom every Sunday, and : > never forget a Birthday. Don’t let your passion for romance get confused with : > the real thing. : > : > (43-50 points) You are Speedy Gonzales: : > You are smart, a real thinker.Every situation is approached with a plan. You : are : > very healthy in mind and body. You teach strong family values. Keep your feet : > planted in them, but don’t overlook a bad situation when it does happen. : > :

Response:

oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type With hope and heart, Kathleen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Number your paper 1-10 and answer honestly!! Don’t read ahead now! > Ever wonder which cartoon character you are most like? Well, a team of > researchers got together and analyzed the personalities of cartoon characters. > The gathered information has been incorporated into this quiz. Answer each > question with the choice that most describes you, then add up the points that > correspond with your answers. > 1) Which describes your perfect date? > a) Candlelight dinner for two > b) Amusement Park > c) Rollerblading in the park > d) Rock Concert > e) See a movie > 2) What is your favorite type of music? > a) Rock and Roll > b) Alternative > c) Soft Rock > d) Classical > e) Popular > 3) What is your favorite type of movie? > a) Comedy > b) Horror > c) Musical > d) Romance > e) Documentary > 4) Which of the following jobs would you choose if you were given only > these > choices? > a) Waiter/Waitress > b) Sports Player > c) Teacher > d) Policeman > e) Bartender > 5) Which would you rather do if you had an hour to waste? > a) work out > b) Read > c) Watch TV > d) Listen to the radio > e) Sleep > 6) Of the following colors, which do you like the best? > a) yellow > b) white > c) sky blue > d) teal > e) red > 7) Which one of the following would you like to eat right now? > a) ice cream > b) pizza > c) sushi > d) pasta > e) salad > 8) Which is your favorite holiday? > a) Halloween > b) Christmas > c) New Year’s > d) Valentine’s Day > e) Thanksgiving > 9) If you could go to any of the following places, which would it be? > a) Paris > b) Spain > c) Las Vegas > d) Hawaii > e) Hollywood > 10) Of the following, who would you rather spend time with? > a) Someone who is smart > b) Someone with good looks > c) Someone who is a party animal > d) Someone who has fun all the time > e) Someone who is very emotional > Now total up your points and find your character below: > 1.)  a-4  b-2  c-5  d-1  e-3 > 2.)  a-2  b-1  c-4  d-5  e-3 > 3.)  a-2  b-1  c-3  d-4  e-5 > 4.)  a-4  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-1 > 5.)  a-5  b-4  c-2  d-1  e-3 > 6.)  a-1  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-4 > 7.)  a-3  b-2  c-1  d-4  e-5 > 8.)  a-1  b-3  c-2  d-4  e-5 > 9.)  a-4  b-5  c-1  d-4  e-3 > 10.) a-5  b-2  c-1  d-3  e-4 > (10-17 points) You are TAZ: > You are wild and crazy and you know it. You know how to have fun, but you may > take it to extremes. You know what you are doing though, and are much in control > of your own life. People don’t always see things your way, but that doesn’t mean > that you should do away with your beliefs. Try to remember that your wild spirit > can lead to hurting yourself and others. > (18-26 points) You are Bugs Bunny: > You are fun, friendly, and popular. You are a real crowd pleaser. You have > probably been out on the town your share of times, yet you come home with the > values that your mother taught you. Marriage and children are important to you, > but only after you have fun. Don’t let the people you please influence you to > stray. > (27-34 points) You are Tweety: > You are cute, and everyone loves you. You are a best friend that no one takes > the chance of losing. You never hurt feelings and seldom have your own feelings > hurt. Life is a breeze. You are witty, and calm most of the time.  Just keep > clear of back stabbers, and you are worry-free. > (35-42 points) You are Peppe Le Pew: (without the smell) You are a lover. > Romance, flowers, and wine are all you need to enjoy yourself. You are serious > about all commitments. A family person. You call your Mom every Sunday, and > never forget a Birthday. Don’t let your passion for romance get confused with > the real thing. > (43-50 points) You are Speedy Gonzales: > You are smart, a real thinker.Every situation is approached with a plan. You are > very healthy in mind and body. You teach strong family values. Keep your feet > planted in them, but don’t overlook a bad situation when it does happen.

Response:

> : oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type > Not middle of the road…just a sweet little ol’ Texas girl… > Lane, OF and then some, f3as3 > Smoke-free long enough pal. > Cigs not smoked: a ton. Money saved:  a truckload.

You are partially right.  A sweet used-to-be-little ol’ Texas girl… hee hee With hope and heart, Kathleen

Response:

> oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type > With hope and heart, > Kathleen

Yup.  Me too.  Tweety with Pepe rising.  This was fun.  Thanks Kathleen.  I guess the main thing is that it doesn’t matter who we are, just so long as we’re happy with who we are ?  :-) Eddie

Response:

: oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type Not middle of the road…just a sweet little ol’ Texas girl… Lane, OF and then some, f3as3 Smoke-free long enough pal. Cigs not smoked: a ton. Money saved:  a truckload. Read my Diary of a Quitter: http://www.bluethunder.org/quitterhome.html We cannot all do great things, but we can do small things with great love.     – Mother Theresa : With hope and heart, : Kathleen : : > Number your paper 1-10 and answer honestly!! Don’t read ahead now! : > : > Ever wonder which cartoon character you are most like? Well, a team of : > researchers got together and analyzed the personalities of cartoon characters. : > The gathered information has been incorporated into this quiz. Answer each : > question with the choice that most describes you, then add up the points that : > correspond with your answers. : > : > 1) Which describes your perfect date? : > a) Candlelight dinner for two : > b) Amusement Park : > c) Rollerblading in the park : > d) Rock Concert : > e) See a movie : > : > 2) What is your favorite type of music? : > a) Rock and Roll : > b) Alternative : > c) Soft Rock : > d) Classical : > e) Popular : > : > 3) What is your favorite type of movie? : > a) Comedy : > b) Horror : > c) Musical : > d) Romance : > e) Documentary : > : > 4) Which of the following jobs would you choose if you were given only : > these : > : > : > choices? : > a) Waiter/Waitress : > b) Sports Player : > c) Teacher : > d) Policeman : > e) Bartender : > : > 5) Which would you rather do if you had an hour to waste? : > a) work out : > b) Read : > c) Watch TV : > d) Listen to the radio : > e) Sleep : > : > 6) Of the following colors, which do you like the best? : > a) yellow : > b) white : > c) sky blue : > d) teal : > e) red : > : > 7) Which one of the following would you like to eat right now? : > a) ice cream : > b) pizza : > c) sushi : > d) pasta : > e) salad : > : > 8) Which is your favorite holiday? : > a) Halloween : > b) Christmas : > c) New Year’s : > d) Valentine’s Day : > e) Thanksgiving : > : > 9) If you could go to any of the following places, which would it be? : > a) Paris : > b) Spain : > c) Las Vegas : > d) Hawaii : > e) Hollywood : > : > 10) Of the following, who would you rather spend time with? : > a) Someone who is smart : > b) Someone with good looks : > c) Someone who is a party animal : > d) Someone who has fun all the time : > e) Someone who is very emotional : > : > Now total up your points and find your character below: : > 1.)  a-4  b-2  c-5  d-1  e-3 : > 2.)  a-2  b-1  c-4  d-5  e-3 : > 3.)  a-2  b-1  c-3  d-4  e-5 : > 4.)  a-4  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-1 : > 5.)  a-5  b-4  c-2  d-1  e-3 : > 6.)  a-1  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-4 : > 7.)  a-3  b-2  c-1  d-4  e-5 : > 8.)  a-1  b-3  c-2  d-4  e-5 : > 9.)  a-4  b-5  c-1  d-4  e-3 : > 10.) a-5  b-2  c-1  d-3  e-4 : > : > (10-17 points) You are TAZ: : > You are wild and crazy and you know it. You know how to have fun, but you may : > take it to extremes. You know what you are doing though, and are much in : control : > of your own life. People don’t always see things your way, but that doesn’t : mean : > that you should do away with your beliefs. Try to remember that your wild : spirit : > can lead to hurting yourself and others. : > : > (18-26 points) You are Bugs Bunny: : > You are fun, friendly, and popular. You are a real crowd pleaser. You have : > probably been out on the town your share of times, yet you come home with the : > values that your mother taught you. Marriage and children are important to : you, : > but only after you have fun. Don’t let the people you please influence you to : > stray. : > : > (27-34 points) You are Tweety: : > You are cute, and everyone loves you. You are a best friend that no one takes : > the chance of losing. You never hurt feelings and seldom have your own : feelings : > hurt. Life is a breeze. You are witty, and calm most of the time.  Just keep : > clear of back stabbers, and you are worry-free. : > : > (35-42 points) You are Peppe Le Pew: (without the smell) You are a lover. : > Romance, flowers, and wine are all you need to enjoy yourself. You are serious : > about all commitments. A family person. You call your Mom every Sunday, and : > never forget a Birthday. Don’t let your passion for romance get confused with : > the real thing. : > : > (43-50 points) You are Speedy Gonzales: : > You are smart, a real thinker.Every situation is approached with a plan. You : are : > very healthy in mind and body. You teach strong family values. Keep your feet : > planted in them, but don’t overlook a bad situation when it does happen. : > :

Response:

oh, I was a tweety…. pretty typical, middle of the road type With hope and heart, Kathleen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Number your paper 1-10 and answer honestly!! Don’t read ahead now! > Ever wonder which cartoon character you are most like? Well, a team of > researchers got together and analyzed the personalities of cartoon characters. > The gathered information has been incorporated into this quiz. Answer each > question with the choice that most describes you, then add up the points that > correspond with your answers. > 1) Which describes your perfect date? > a) Candlelight dinner for two > b) Amusement Park > c) Rollerblading in the park > d) Rock Concert > e) See a movie > 2) What is your favorite type of music? > a) Rock and Roll > b) Alternative > c) Soft Rock > d) Classical > e) Popular > 3) What is your favorite type of movie? > a) Comedy > b) Horror > c) Musical > d) Romance > e) Documentary > 4) Which of the following jobs would you choose if you were given only > these > choices? > a) Waiter/Waitress > b) Sports Player > c) Teacher > d) Policeman > e) Bartender > 5) Which would you rather do if you had an hour to waste? > a) work out > b) Read > c) Watch TV > d) Listen to the radio > e) Sleep > 6) Of the following colors, which do you like the best? > a) yellow > b) white > c) sky blue > d) teal > e) red > 7) Which one of the following would you like to eat right now? > a) ice cream > b) pizza > c) sushi > d) pasta > e) salad > 8) Which is your favorite holiday? > a) Halloween > b) Christmas > c) New Year’s > d) Valentine’s Day > e) Thanksgiving > 9) If you could go to any of the following places, which would it be? > a) Paris > b) Spain > c) Las Vegas > d) Hawaii > e) Hollywood > 10) Of the following, who would you rather spend time with? > a) Someone who is smart > b) Someone with good looks > c) Someone who is a party animal > d) Someone who has fun all the time > e) Someone who is very emotional > Now total up your points and find your character below: > 1.)  a-4  b-2  c-5  d-1  e-3 > 2.)  a-2  b-1  c-4  d-5  e-3 > 3.)  a-2  b-1  c-3  d-4  e-5 > 4.)  a-4  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-1 > 5.)  a-5  b-4  c-2  d-1  e-3 > 6.)  a-1  b-5  c-3  d-2  e-4 > 7.)  a-3  b-2  c-1  d-4  e-5 > 8.)  a-1  b-3  c-2  d-4  e-5 > 9.)  a-4  b-5  c-1  d-4  e-3 > 10.) a-5  b-2  c-1  d-3  e-4 > (10-17 points) You are TAZ: > You are wild and crazy and you know it. You know how to have fun, but you may > take it to extremes. You know what you are doing though, and are much in control > of your own life. People don’t always see things your way, but that doesn’t mean > that you should do away with your beliefs. Try to remember that your wild spirit > can lead to hurting yourself and others. > (18-26 points) You are Bugs Bunny: > You are fun, friendly, and popular. You are a real crowd pleaser. You have > probably been out on the town your share of times, yet you come home with the > values that your mother taught you. Marriage and children are important to you, > but only after you have fun. Don’t let the people you please influence you to > stray. > (27-34 points) You are Tweety: > You are cute, and everyone loves you. You are a best friend that no one takes > the chance of losing. You never hurt feelings and seldom have your own feelings > hurt. Life is a breeze. You are witty, and calm most of the time.  Just keep > clear of back stabbers, and you are worry-free. > (35-42 points) You are Peppe Le Pew: (without the smell) You are a lover. > Romance, flowers, and wine are all you need to enjoy yourself. You are serious > about all commitments. A family person. You call your Mom every Sunday, and > never forget a Birthday. Don’t let your passion for romance get confused with > the real thing. > (43-50 points) You are Speedy Gonzales: > You are smart, a real thinker.Every situation is approached with a plan. You are > very healthy in mind and body. You teach strong family values. Keep your feet > planted in them, but don’t overlook a bad situation when it does happen.

Response:

Question:

> Just like they’re doing in Iraq.

They have not been ordered to do that.         YET. McDave

Response:

> To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies > have to do is turn off the spigot.

Your short screed over simplifies very complex matters. They will not be able turn off the spigot.   We have four branches of highly technical, well trained, well supplied, military services that can take over control those spigots if necessary. Of course, that crude (no pun intended) method will not the the one used. Other ways (economic/banking/diplomatic pressures) will turn out to be more effective.   But, our superiour military force is always there (unless the appeasers and peaceniks obtain the reins of our government)… McDave

Response:

>> To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies > have to do is turn off the spigot. >Your short screed over simplifies very complex matters. >They will not be able turn off the spigot.   We have four branches of highly >technical, well trained, well supplied, military services that can take over >control those spigots if necessary.

Just like they’re doing in Iraq. >Of course, that crude (no pun intended) method will not the the one used. >Other ways (economic/banking/diplomatic pressures) will turn out to be more >effective.   But, our superiour military force is always there (unless the >appeasers and peaceniks obtain the reins of our government)… >McDave

 Mason A. Clark — Frontal Lobe (R)    http://masonc.home.netcom.com  political-social-psychological Economics  Ronald Reagan’s amazing insight in economics  Complete book: The Healing Wisdom of Dr.P.P.Quimby  Complete book: Get Rich in Small Business  Best advise: do NOT read economics textbooks!  They will poison your mind with descriptions of  a world that does not exist.      ——-I am not a Republican——

Response:

DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE Whether we like it or not, the United States will be dependent on foreign sources of oil for years to come. As each year passes we become more dependent on foreign oil. The amount of oil we require is largely a function of the size of our population.  By the year 2050, census estimates predict that the U.S. population will double.. Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the world and we`re fast catching up. It should be obvious to even the most casual observer that as population grows so does the amount of oil we need.  To be sure there are ways to conserve but there is a limit to how much we can conserve.  There is no magic alternative energy bullet and our dependence on oil will range far into the future.  With the rapid industrialization of other areas of the world, natural resources will be in short supply–some already are. Our ‘chicken in every pot’ politicians refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for oil. While we are spending billions on Homeland Security little is being done to protect our borders and curtail legal and illegal immigration.  Our politicians, of both parties, refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for more oil.  The hole our politicos are digging for us gets deeper every day. To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies have to do is turn off the spigot. Please copy and distribute freely.

Response:

DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE Whether we like it or not, the United States will be dependent on foreign sources of oil for years to come. As each year passes we become more dependent on foreign oil. The amount of oil we require is a function of the size of our population.  By the year 2050, census estimates predict that the U.S. population will double.. Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the world and we`re fast catching up to the leaders. It should be obvious to even the most casual observer that as population grows so does the amount of oil we need.  To be sure there are ways to conserve but there is a limit to how much we can conserve.  There is no magic alternative energy bullet and our dependence on oil will range far into the future.  Our ‘chicken in every pot’ politicians refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for oil. While we are spending billions on Homeland Security little is being done to protect our borders and curtail legal and illegal immigration.  Our politicians, of both parties, refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for more oil.  The hole our politicos are digging for us gets bigger and deeper every day. To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies have to do is turn off the spigot. Please copy and distribute freely.

Response:

> politicians, of both parties, refuse to deal with the massive population growth > that is fueling the demand for more oil.

        What do you suggest? Depopulation?         I believe that the correct and most likely solution will be conservation. A good example is wood in homes in Italy and other European countries. Wood is rarely used for structures there. It’s all masonry and clay tile, even joists and roofing panels. Why? because long ago, most of the trees were cut down for fuel and structures. There is a certain amount of trees in Italy, likely replants growing to be cut when ready. Wood only appears as doors, window frames and treasured furniture, all of which are beautiful.         Thus, fuels will be used in smaller amounts per capita. This is already evident. As I was growing up (1930-1950) in Pennsylvania, the coal we burned to heat our buildings was excessive. Everyone left a small slot open in bedroom windows in the winter for "fresh air". My wife still does that a bit here in Ohio in the daytime occasionally on milder days in winter. However, our furnace is high efficiency, 90% vs the previous ’60’s 60% unit. And more excesses will will be eliminated by the younger generations as fuels become much more costly. Baby boomers won’t do it, though, they were spoiled rotten by the the Dem nightmare, the "Great Society".         The X-generation and later will do OK in this matter. I think they will solve the problem nicely, not being dissuaded by their whining boomer parents. In youth lies our future. All you guys with SUV’s, Democrats, too, ditch them soon; they are albatrosses. My Mazda gets 32 mpg, and I may eventually get a hybrid.         Angelo campanella

Response:

DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE Whether we like it or not, the United States will be dependent on foreign sources of oil for years to come. As each year passes we become more dependent on foreign oil. The amount of oil we require is a function of the size of our population. Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the world and we`re fast catching up. It should be obvious to even the most casual observer that as population grows so does the amount of oil we need.  To be sure there are ways to conserve but there is a limit to how much we can conserve.  There is no magic alternate energy bullet and our dependence on oil will range far into the future.  Our ‘chicken in every pot’ politicians refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for more oil. While we are spending billions on Homeland Security little is being done to protect our borders and curtail legal and illegal immigration.  Our politicians, of both parties, refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for more oil.  The hole our politicos are digging for us gets bigger and bigger each year. To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies have to do is turn off the tap. Please copy and distribute freely.

Response:

>DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE >Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the >world >and we`re fast catching up to the Third World.  Census estimates project that >the U.S. population will double by 2050 then double again and exceed ONE >BILLION by 2100.  Some >independent demographers predict we will reach ONE >BILLION by 2088.  Most of the projected growth is due to massive legal and >illegal immigration. >Politicos of both parties are responsible-every month that goes by they are >digging a deeper hole.

It is incomprehensible to me that both parties have chosen to ignore or treat lightly this massive immigration.  I certainly don’t blame the poor from other countries for wanting to come here.  This is a problem in every industrialized nation.  You would think we would work together.  The elephant in the livingroom is that some groups have and will continue to have a high birth rate….far beyond any economy to provide employment. -Connie

Response:

DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the world and we`re fast catching up to the Third World.  Census estimates project that the U.S. population will double by 2050 then double again and exceed ONE BILLION by 2100.  Some independent demographers predict we will reach ONE BILLION by 2088.  Most of the projected growth is due to massive legal and illegal immigration.  Just to keep up, our infrastructure will have to expand four fold to meet the demand.  This means we will need four times as much food, water, electricity, fuel, housing and other necessities to sustain a population of over ONE BILLION.  With the rapid industrialization of other areas of the world, natural resources will be in short supply–some already are.  As a result, our standard of living will decline and unrest will certainly result.   Politicos of both parties are responsible-every month that goes by they are digging a deeper hole. The country your children and grandchildren will inherit will be far different than the country you live in today.  Many areas will resemble a Third World—even today some areas of our once great cities are ethnic enclaves where few residents speak English.  This self-inflicted Balkanization is spreading across America aided by politicians whose only objective is to get elected.  The rationale some politicos use for giving illegal aliens a free pass is the so-called `Jobs Americans Won`t Do` scam. These are mainly jobs that our high school and college students used to do part time; they include, lawn mowing, washing cars, flipping burgers, baby-sitting, delivering newspapers, etc.  Who do they think performed these jobs before the illegals flooded our country?  Short changing our students of part time jobs has serious consequences for the nation.   With millions of American workers unemployed and automation rapidly replacing workers you would think our politicos would try to reduce legal and illegal immigration.  Sadly, this is not the case.  Just to keep up with population growth, we need to create 150,000-200,000 new jobs per month over those normally required.  Enormous trade deficits and massive legal and illegal immigration are sucking jobs, money and the lifeblood out of mainstream America. Every politician that runs for office should be asked if he intends to reduce legal immigration, opposes amnesty, and is in favor of getting tough on illegal aliens.  If he doesn`t agree, changes the subject, or refuses to answer, he is too weak to lead and doesn`t deserve your vote. Please copy and distribute freely.

Response:

DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE Whether we like it or not, the United States will be dependent on foreign sources of oil for years to come. As each year passes we become more dependent on foreign oil. The amount of oil we require is largely a function of the size of our population.  By the year 2050, census estimates predict that the U.S. population will double.. Behind China and India, the U.S. is the third most populous nation in the world and we`re fast catching up. It should be obvious to even the most casual observer that as population grows so does the amount of oil we need.  To be sure there are ways to conserve but there is a limit to how much we can conserve.  There is no magic alternative energy bullet and our dependence on oil will range far into the future.  With the rapid industrialization of other areas of the world, natural resources will be in short supply–some already are. Our ‘chicken in every pot’ politicians refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for oil. While we are spending billions on Homeland Security little is being done to protect our borders and curtail legal and illegal immigration.  Our politicians, of both parties, refuse to deal with the massive population growth that is fueling the demand for more oil.  The hole our politicos are digging for us gets deeper every day. To bring the U.S. to its knees, all our enemies have to do is turn off the spigot. Please copy and distribute freely.

Response:

Question:

I have a 50 watt JCM Head (EL-34’s) and a model 1936 cabinet. 2X12. When playing in clubs people complain that those who are sitting in direct line of my cabinet hear it too loud while those to one side do not hear it loud enough. I am considering making a new back that will be mostly open. Thus an open back cabinet. I have 75 watt Celestions that I like and I do not want to change the speakers. After 15 years of use they are broken in nicely. Will it have a big effect in my sound? Will it cut down on volume? Will it be less directional? Thanks for any help you can offer. Pt

Response:

Try blocking off one speaker.  I have a piece of plywood that I cut that fits into the front of my VibroWorld built 1936 2×12 cabinet.  I fits about as tight as I could make it, and blocks half the front off. This is a pic of the cabinet when I had it set on end, and there’s an extra piece of plywood in there.  I forget why.  But it demonstrates pretty much what I mean: http://amplifyer.home.comcast.net/VibroWorldCelestion2-2-04.jpg If you don’t want to lose the dimensional nature of the sound of the two speakers, adding Weber Beam Blockers would take some edge off the Celestions.  Putting something in front of the centers of the speakers would do the same basic thing.  On my cabinet, I think that the center of each speaker is 8" from the edge of the cabinet. Hanging something like a heavy towel over a speaker does a lot.  I found that hanging the arm of a sweatshirt over the center on a speaker reduces the beamy nature of the speaker, more than you’d think. I think Scott Colborn uses some sort of frame system, and I’m not sure how he works that, but maybe he’ll explain. Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I have a 50 watt JCM Head (EL-34’s) and a model 1936 cabinet. >2X12. >When playing in clubs people complain that those who are sitting in >direct line of my cabinet hear it too loud while those to one side do >not hear it loud enough. >I am considering making a new back that will be mostly open. >Thus an open back cabinet. >I have 75 watt Celestions that I like and I do not want to change the >speakers. >After 15 years of use they are broken in nicely. >Will it have a big effect in my sound? >Will it cut down on volume? >Will it be less directional? >Thanks for any help you can offer. >Pt

– Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

>Try blocking off one speaker.  I have a piece of plywood that I cut >that fits into the front of my VibroWorld built 1936 2×12 cabinet.  I >fits about as tight as I could make it, and blocks half the front off. >This is a pic of the cabinet when I had it set on end, and there’s an >extra piece of plywood in there.  I forget why.  But it demonstrates >pretty much what I mean: >http://amplifyer.home.comcast.net/VibroWorldCelestion2-2-04.jpg

Thanks. I don’t quite understand what blocking half of the cabinet does. I may give it a try. It is easier than making a new back. Beautiful Telecaster by the way. What is that thing that looks like a small pickup on an angle between the other pickups? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If you don’t want to lose the dimensional nature of the sound of the >two speakers, adding Weber Beam Blockers would take some edge off the >Celestions.  Putting something in front of the centers of the speakers >would do the same basic thing.  On my cabinet, I think that the center >of each speaker is 8" from the edge of the cabinet. >Hanging something like a heavy towel over a speaker does a lot.  I >found that hanging the arm of a sweatshirt over the center on a >speaker reduces the beamy nature of the speaker, more than you’d >think. >I think Scott Colborn uses some sort of frame system, and I’m not sure >how he works that, but maybe he’ll explain. >Pete

Thanks. I seem to recall reading something about Scott doing something to his cabinet a year or so ago. Pt

Response:

>>Try blocking off one speaker.  I have a piece of plywood that I cut >that fits into the front of my VibroWorld built 1936 2×12 cabinet.  I >fits about as tight as I could make it, and blocks half the front off. >This is a pic of the cabinet when I had it set on end, and there’s an >extra piece of plywood in there.  I forget why.  But it demonstrates >pretty much what I mean: >http://amplifyer.home.comcast.net/VibroWorldCelestion2-2-04.jpg >Thanks. >I don’t quite understand what blocking half of the cabinet does.

It cuts back how efficient the cabinet is by a whole lot.  You would still have one very beamy Celestion pointing at the crowd.   I find it easier to use the cabinet in small spaces.  I tend swap speakers once in a while, so it’s great for blocking off the new speaker while it breaks in too. >I may give it a try. >It is easier than making a new back.

Try just blocking off one side with whatever you have sitting around to see if it works for you before committing a piece of plywood to the idea.  If it doesn’t work, you’ll probably be able to tell pretty quick. I find that if I sit down in a chair while playing that it’s much harder on my ears.  Most of the time, I like to stand up and play, so the speakers are aimed way below my ears with a 2×12 cabinet.  But when I sit down I’m more at the level your audience would be at, only closer.  Try sitting down some time.  That’s what’s hitting them. Once in a while, someone quotes Frank Zappa as saying something like "I don’t care what amp you use, as long as it’s pointed at your own head".  I’m sure that that’s paraphrased. If you can find a way to not aim the cabinet at the audience, that might solve the problem instantly. >Beautiful Telecaster by the way.

Thanks.  It looks good in pictures.  It’s a Jap built Fender RI, that I stuffed humbuckers in.  I feel guilty about that sometimes, but it slowly evolved into what it is now. It’s probably my most vicious sounding guitar, which makes it kind of fun sometimes. >What is that thing that looks like a small pickup on an angle between >the other pickups?

That’s just a bobbin from a humbucker pickup, that I re-sized a bit, and stuffed into the wire route slot to keep my fingers out of it when I’m playing. I’m thinking of covering that up with Tolex, or using a piece of rosewood in that slot.  The way it is now, I have to keep explaining it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->If you don’t want to lose the dimensional nature of the sound of the >two speakers, adding Weber Beam Blockers would take some edge off the >Celestions.  Putting something in front of the centers of the speakers >would do the same basic thing.  On my cabinet, I think that the center >of each speaker is 8" from the edge of the cabinet. >Hanging something like a heavy towel over a speaker does a lot.  I >found that hanging the arm of a sweatshirt over the center on a >speaker reduces the beamy nature of the speaker, more than you’d >think. >I think Scott Colborn uses some sort of frame system, and I’m not sure >how he works that, but maybe he’ll explain. >Pete >Thanks. >I seem to recall reading something about Scott doing something to his >cabinet a year or so ago. >Pt

He might not notice this thread.  You never can tell.  I think he’s sort of an expert in the field of playing loud Marshalls, and not hurting the audience.  I’m not. If he doesn’t speak up, you can do a search at http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&as_ugroup=alt.guitar.amps and find a lot of what he’s said about it before. Pete — Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

> I have a 50 watt JCM Head (EL-34’s) and a model 1936 cabinet. > 2X12. > When playing in clubs people complain that those who are sitting in > direct line of my cabinet hear it too loud while those to one side do > not hear it loud enough. > I am considering making a new back that will be mostly open. > Thus an open back cabinet. > I have 75 watt Celestions that I like and I do not want to change the > speakers. > After 15 years of use they are broken in nicely. > Will it have a big effect in my sound?

Yes.  Less bottoms, for one.  If there’s a solid wall behind you (for reflections), it will be much less directional.  Open back projects like "8" and closed like "V". > Will it cut down on volume?

Depends were your are.  An open back loses volume on axis, but is much louder behind it ;-) .  If there’s a wall behind you for reflections, it will disperse more widely. > Will it be less directional?

Yes, but at what cost?  The tone will change.  Maybe you’ll like it, maybe you won’t.  You might be better off with a second cab, and put the two at different angles. > Thanks for any help you can offer.

Try putting the cab as far away from the edge of the stage as possible. Ideally, try a second cab next to yours at an outward angle like ^, but not that steep of an angle!  Or, angle it up towards the ceiling more, and rely on the mic to the PA. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pt

Response:

Hello Pete and Hello Pt, Thank you Pete for your kind words.  I have had some experience in gigging with my `74 Marshall Super Lead half stack in small to medium clubs, so I can comment not from being an expert but from my own experience. Putting cabs and amps in the backline and aiming them at the audience is something that I rarely do anymore.  I prefer sidefill – the cab aimed at the other side of the stage.  I stand on the right side, to my left (in the middle) is the bass player, to his left – on the left side of the stage – is the other guitar player.  The drummer is behind the bass player. I put the Super Lead half stack on my side of the stage, so that when I take about 1 – 2 steps back from the vocal mic, I’m stepping into the projection of sound from the cab.  The other guitarist does the same from his side of the stage, aiming his cab at my side of the stage.  The result is that we hear each other very well, we contain the stage volume so we get to play a little louder (grin….), the sound guy mics our cabs and uses the house system to play the room, and we get some volume coming off the front of stage for the audience close to the front.  And no one in the audience has a cab aimed at them and hurting them. Additionally, I use a wooden frame system and acoustic pads hung from the frame.  I put the frame and pads up close to the front of the grill of the 4 x 12 cab, moving it closer and farther away to suit my needs.  The pads interfere with the speaker’s ability to project sound  and interrupt the "beam" from the cab.  The result is that within close proximity to the cab I can hear myself real well (grin…..) so I can use that volume level and sustain as part of my tool-bag for playing guitar, but as you move away from the cab the volume heard is more peripheral and not directional.  The sound guys love this system and can dial in the house pretty easily, and I get my tone and sound and can contain the stage volume. The next time you take the cab out to a gig, take along a thick, old quilt. Put the cab on two chairs on your side of the stage, aimed at the other side of the stage.  Take two more chairs, and move the backs of the chairs close to the front of the cab.  Drape the thick, old quilt over the two chairs in front of the cab, and move the chairs and quilt closer to the cab, or farther away, depending on what you hear.  You’ll find that you get to play a little louder, and the sound guy can mic your cab for the house system, and if you can get the other guitar player, etc, to also use sidefill from his side of the stage, you’ll be able to hear each other real well. Rex – the other guitar player in "The Relics," often uses his reissue AC30 on an amp stand, and aims it at me.  He doesn’t block the front of the cab. I aim my 4 x 12 cab at his side of the stage, and I partially block the front of the cab (I have a little louder stage volume, so the partial blocking helps to equalize both Rex and I for stage volume.  Craig the bass player gets to stand in the middle and get stereo Rex and Scott (grin…..). He wears ear protectors. Some guys who play at fairly loud stage volume will sometimes aim the cabs up in the air, or turn them around and aim them at the back wall in back of the stage.  I’ve heard a story about SRV playing a large arena in Texas where he was overpowering the house system with his stage volume, so the tech put his cabs on their back aimed up in the air and that solved the problem. Cab placement on stage (knowing where the sound is going and where the cab is aimed, and what it will produce at loud stage volume) and partial blocking of the front of the cab allows me to use my half stack in a bunch of smaller to medium sized clubs.  Another technique that Kent P. uses is a different value pre-amp tube in the third position pre-amp socket, using a 12AX7 in the 1st and 2nd pre-amp sockets, and a different value tube in the third socket of his Marshall – try a 12AT7, a 12AY7, etc, and see what you like.  Different value tubes in that socket will affect the room volume of the amp – you may or may not like the tone and sound.  Experiment and see what you think. All the best!  Have fun…. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Try blocking off one speaker.  I have a piece of plywood that I cut >>that fits into the front of my VibroWorld built 1936 2×12 cabinet.  I >>fits about as tight as I could make it, and blocks half the front off. >>This is a pic of the cabinet when I had it set on end, and there’s an >>extra piece of plywood in there.  I forget why.  But it demonstrates >>pretty much what I mean: >>http://amplifyer.home.comcast.net/VibroWorldCelestion2-2-04.jpg >Thanks. >I don’t quite understand what blocking half of the cabinet does. >It cuts back how efficient the cabinet is by a whole lot.  You would >still have one very beamy Celestion pointing at the crowd.   I find it >easier to use the cabinet in small spaces.  I tend swap speakers once >in a while, so it’s great for blocking off the new speaker while it >breaks in too. >I may give it a try. >It is easier than making a new back. >Try just blocking off one side with whatever you have sitting around >to see if it works for you before committing a piece of plywood to the >idea.  If it doesn’t work, you’ll probably be able to tell pretty >quick. >I find that if I sit down in a chair while playing that it’s much >harder on my ears.  Most of the time, I like to stand up and play, so >the speakers are aimed way below my ears with a 2×12 cabinet.  But >when I sit down I’m more at the level your audience would be at, only >closer.  Try sitting down some time.  That’s what’s hitting them. >Once in a while, someone quotes Frank Zappa as saying something like >"I don’t care what amp you use, as long as it’s pointed at your own >head".  I’m sure that that’s paraphrased. >If you can find a way to not aim the cabinet at the audience, that >might solve the problem instantly. >Beautiful Telecaster by the way. >Thanks.  It looks good in pictures.  It’s a Jap built Fender RI, that >I stuffed humbuckers in.  I feel guilty about that sometimes, but it >slowly evolved into what it is now. >It’s probably my most vicious sounding guitar, which makes it kind of >fun sometimes. >What is that thing that looks like a small pickup on an angle between >the other pickups? >That’s just a bobbin from a humbucker pickup, that I re-sized a bit, >and stuffed into the wire route slot to keep my fingers out of it when >I’m playing. >I’m thinking of covering that up with Tolex, or using a piece of >rosewood in that slot.  The way it is now, I have to keep explaining >it. >>If you don’t want to lose the dimensional nature of the sound of the >>two speakers, adding Weber Beam Blockers would take some edge off the >>Celestions.  Putting something in front of the centers of the speakers >>would do the same basic thing.  On my cabinet, I think that the center >>of each speaker is 8" from the edge of the cabinet. >>Hanging something like a heavy towel over a speaker does a lot.  I >>found that hanging the arm of a sweatshirt over the center on a >>speaker reduces the beamy nature of the speaker, more than you’d >>think. >>I think Scott Colborn uses some sort of frame system, and I’m not sure >>how he works that, but maybe he’ll explain. >>Pete >Thanks. >I seem to recall reading something about Scott doing something to his >cabinet a year or so ago. >Pt >He might not notice this thread.  You never can tell.  I think he’s >sort of an expert in the field of playing loud Marshalls, and not >hurting the audience.  I’m not. >If he doesn’t speak up, you can do a search at >http://groups.google.com/groups?oi=djq&as_ugroup=alt.guitar.amps and >find a lot of what he’s said about it before. >Pete >– >Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

Well, here’s the basic idea of what Scott has going on. He sets up the cab, usually in a sidefill situation, and puts the mike up in front of the cab. In front of that, he puts what is essentially a quilt rack with a couple of throw pillows hanging from it. It’s quite effective, and I think he’s considering marketing such a device. His is much better looking than what I described, but you get the idea. He gets the volume he wants, and it doesn’t blast anyone else. He’s quite considerate that way, you know. ~Rich See my gear at the link! http://community.webtv.net/one4rich/RichsGuitarPage

Response:

Hello Rich! Lol…..I just read through the thread and wrote a reply and then saw your articulate answer – great minds think alike (grin….).  I don’t know if I’m so much considerate and thoughtful….or just wanting to get my stage volume so I can enjoy the sound and tone, and not blow people off the front of the stage with it.  Having one’s cake and enjoying it too….. Are you digging that pointy guitar with the BL pickups?  ……I thought so (grin…..).  You ought to tell the guys in a new, separate thread what you installed and what you think.  The Bill Lawrence pickups are truly remarkable – and you "know" that now! Follow your bliss, Rich.  Have fun. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott Well, here’s the basic idea of what Scott has going on. He sets up the cab, usually in a sidefill situation, and puts the mike up in front of the cab. In front of that, he puts what is essentially a quilt rack with a couple of throw pillows hanging from it. It’s quite effective, and I think he’s considering marketing such a device. His is much better looking than what I described, but you get the idea. He gets the volume he wants, and it doesn’t blast anyone else. He’s quite considerate that way, you know. ~Rich See my gear at the link! http://community.webtv.net/one4rich/RichsGuitarPage

Response:

>Lol…..I just read through the thread and > wrote a reply and then saw your > articulate answer – great minds think > alike (grin….). I don’t know if I’m so > much considerate and thoughtful….or > just wanting to get my stage volume so I > can enjoy the sound and tone, and not > blow people off the front of the stage > with it. Having one’s cake and enjoying > it too…..

Yup! It’s funny, I copied the part of the message I was responding to, but completely forgot to put it in there. It must be because I was really excited last night. I’ll tell you why in just a minute… >Are you digging that pointy guitar with > the BL pickups? ……I thought so > (grin…..). You ought to tell the guys in a > new, separate thread what you installed > and what you think. The Bill Lawrence > pickups are truly remarkable – and you > "know" that now!

I’m digging that "pointy" guitar so much that I’ve caught PGF…Pointy Guitar Fever. I bought a Gibson Explorer from Ebay last night, hence my excitement Imagine my surprise when Keri actually said "okay, go for it" when I was showing it to her. The other guitarist in my band is interested in my LP, and now I can let him have it. That weighed on her decision to approve…I’m getting rid of something and not just adding. I’ll bet I could buy another amp if I was willing to give up my rack… I can’t do it! I love my rack rig! I don’t know if I’ll like it better than the Kramer…that will depend on those Gibson pickups, I think. Bill Lawrence has set a pretty high standard for them to meet. LOL >Follow your bliss, Rich. Have fun. >Walk in Beauty, Peace. Scott

Am I ever! See ya soon, Scott! ~Rich See my gear at the link! http://community.webtv.net/one4rich/RichsGuitarPage

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello Pete and Hello Pt, >Thank you Pete for your kind words.  I have had some experience in gigging >with my `74 Marshall Super Lead half stack in small to medium clubs, so I >can comment not from being an expert but from my own experience. >Putting cabs and amps in the backline and aiming them at the audience is >something that I rarely do anymore.  I prefer sidefill – the cab aimed at >the other side of the stage.  I stand on the right side, to my left (in the >middle) is the bass player, to his left – on the left side of the stage – is >the other guitar player.  The drummer is behind the bass player. >I put the Super Lead half stack on my side of the stage, so that when I take >about 1 – 2 steps back from the vocal mic, I’m stepping into the projection >of sound from the cab.  The other guitarist does the same from his side of >the stage, aiming his cab at my side of the stage.  The result is that we >hear each other very well, we contain the stage volume so we get to play a >little louder (grin….), the sound guy mics our cabs and uses the house >system to play the room, and we get some volume coming off the front of >stage for the audience close to the front.  And no one in the audience has a >cab aimed at them and hurting them.

I just realized last night, that I no longer have things arranged like they were when I was getting the best use out of my cabinet.  The way the cabinet worked the best was when it was behind me.  The way it is now, it’s pointing at my right side, and I’m fighting it.   Even with the plywood sheet idea, but it does tame the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Additionally, I use a wooden frame system and acoustic pads hung from the >frame.  I put the frame and pads up close to the front of the grill of the 4 >x 12 cab, moving it closer and farther away to suit my needs.  The pads >interfere with the speaker’s ability to project sound  and interrupt the >"beam" from the cab.  The result is that within close proximity to the cab I >can hear myself real well (grin…..) so I can use that volume level and >sustain as part of my tool-bag for playing guitar, but as you move away from >the cab the volume heard is more peripheral and not directional.  The sound >guys love this system and can dial in the house pretty easily, and I get my >tone and sound and can contain the stage volume. >The next time you take the cab out to a gig, take along a thick, old quilt. >Put the cab on two chairs on your side of the stage, aimed at the other side >of the stage.  Take two more chairs, and move the backs of the chairs close >to the front of the cab.  Drape the thick, old quilt over the two chairs in >front of the cab, and move the chairs and quilt closer to the cab, or >farther away, depending on what you hear.  You’ll find that you get to play >a little louder, and the sound guy can mic your cab for the house system, >and if you can get the other guitar player, etc, to also use sidefill from >his side of the stage, you’ll be able to hear each other real well.

I think I’m going to rearrange things, so that my cabinet is behind me, as previously mentioned, and I want to try your frame idea some time. I just noticed some very heavy edge protecting material that I’ve been saving that came packed around a furnace my brother installed a while back.  It’s been sitting here, waiting for me to decide what to do with it.  It might be perfect for a frame for home use, but it wouldn’t be roadworthy.  Just to test the frame thing, it might be perfect. >Rex – the other guitar player in "The Relics," often uses his reissue AC30 >on an amp stand, and aims it at me.  He doesn’t block the front of the cab. >I aim my 4 x 12 cab at his side of the stage, and I partially block the >front of the cab (I have a little louder stage volume, so the partial >blocking helps to equalize both Rex and I for stage volume.  Craig the bass >player gets to stand in the middle and get stereo Rex and Scott (grin…..). >He wears ear protectors.

I’d like to see Rex play some time. >Some guys who play at fairly loud stage volume will sometimes aim the cabs >up in the air, or turn them around and aim them at the back wall in back of >the stage.  I’ve heard a story about SRV playing a large arena in Texas >where he was overpowering the house system with his stage volume, so the >tech put his cabs on their back aimed up in the air and that solved the >problem.

A few people noted how Springstein (they’re saying "bruce") had his cabinets aimed straight up when he appeared on TV a few times before his last tour.  I’ve never tried that.  The time I saw him on TV (the Today Show?) he was outdoors though.  And he had them pointing up, but of course there was no ceiling overhead to reflect the sound back down. But I think in that situation, they pretty much wanted most of his sound to vanish into thin air. >Cab placement on stage (knowing where the sound is going and where the cab >is aimed, and what it will produce at loud stage volume) and partial >blocking of the front of the cab allows me to use my half stack in a bunch >of smaller to medium sized clubs.  Another technique that Kent P. uses is a >different value pre-amp tube in the third position pre-amp socket, using a >12AX7 in the 1st and 2nd pre-amp sockets, and a different value tube in the >third socket of his Marshall – try a 12AT7, a 12AY7, etc, and see what you >like.  Different value tubes in that socket will affect the room volume of >the amp – you may or may not like the tone and sound.  Experiment and see >what you think. >All the best!  Have fun…. >Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott

I had put a Mullard 12AT7 in the first slot of my JTM45, and Mark asked me why I put it there.  I said, well…. because it’s the only Mullard I have, and I hit it with an OD pedal anyhow, so I don’t need all that much gain in the first slot.  He told me that it’d be better in the PI slot, because it would hit the output tubes harder than a 12AX7 does. So there’s this looming question about gain vs. current output on the phase inverter tube.  I wonder if the second preamp tube in a Marshall would be a better one to use a lower gain preamp tube in when trying to lower the amp’s volume level. Pete — Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

Thanks for your help gentlemen. I will try all of the things you mentioned. Tilting the cabinet up seems interesting. I wonder how it will sound bounced off the ceiling. Pt

Response:

Hello Rich, Congrats on the Explorer purchase.  What color? Rex has one and he seems to always sound pretty decent with it.  Great that you have a supportive partner who appreciates your music and it’s value to your life (and hers).  When your children see Dad being fulfilled through his creativity and Dad taking care of himself and having fun, it is a powerful thing for them as well, and good behavior to model. If you get the stuff you like from your rack – rock on.  I continue to believe that there is a Super Lead half stack in your future (grin…..). It’s hard to give up a Les Paul.  But it’s not going far.  I understand the reasoning behind ‘one in the door, one out the door.’  I’m down to my basic three – Tele, Strat and Les Paul Classic.  I figure if I can’t do it with one of those, I’m done dealing.  I’m still working with the concept of standing upright, chewing gum "and" playing guitar, so I always see room for improvement in my technique and playing (grin…).  However, having played your Kramer with the Bill Lawrence pickups and that great Floyd Rose system……if the funds were available…….anyway it was fun to play that one. Keep me posted on your upcoming gigs.  Thanks again for helping "The Relics" at the Gary Allan concert! All the best. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott >Lol…..I just read through the thread and > wrote a reply and then saw your > articulate answer – great minds think > alike (grin….). I don’t know if I’m so > much considerate and thoughtful….or > just wanting to get my stage volume so I > can enjoy the sound and tone, and not > blow people off the front of the stage > with it. Having one’s cake and enjoying > it too…..

Yup! It’s funny, I copied the part of the message I was responding to, but completely forgot to put it in there. It must be because I was really excited last night. I’ll tell you why in just a minute… >Are you digging that pointy guitar with > the BL pickups? ……I thought so > (grin…..). You ought to tell the guys in a > new, separate thread what you installed > and what you think. The Bill Lawrence > pickups are truly remarkable – and you > "know" that now!

I’m digging that "pointy" guitar so much that I’ve caught PGF…Pointy Guitar Fever. I bought a Gibson Explorer from Ebay last night, hence my excitement Imagine my surprise when Keri actually said "okay, go for it" when I was showing it to her. The other guitarist in my band is interested in my LP, and now I can let him have it. That weighed on her decision to approve…I’m getting rid of something and not just adding. I’ll bet I could buy another amp if I was willing to give up my rack… I can’t do it! I love my rack rig! I don’t know if I’ll like it better than the Kramer…that will depend on those Gibson pickups, I think. Bill Lawrence has set a pretty high standard for them to meet. LOL >Follow your bliss, Rich. Have fun. >Walk in Beauty, Peace. Scott

Am I ever! See ya soon, Scott! ~Rich See my gear at the link! http://community.webtv.net/one4rich/RichsGuitarPage

Response:

Hello Pete, You’ve got enough spare good tubes to try a lot of combinations in that JTM 45.  Grab a log book and write down the tubes, combinations of pre-amp tubes, etc, and through listening come up with a set of pre-amp tubes that you find are the best for what you do. If you have a handy interior wall, try putting some of that packing material against the wall, and put your 2 x 12 cab around 6 inches from it – facing the material.  See what you think.  Move the cab closer or farther away and find the right combination of distance from that material and your cab, and the gain and volume you’re using from your overdrive pedal and amp. I’ve been "beta testing" my wooden frame and acoustical pads now for years. I have a seamstress friend who came over today and got one of my original pads so she can make a pattern and measure it, and I’ll give some thought to having some made along with a frame that either is bolted and glued together and ready for use, or, a kit that I can put together that the end user can then bolt and glue and construct from the parts. After I have a chance to see what the cost is, I’ll consider marketing this baffle system and selling some.  I know that it works, I know what it does and how it allows the player to get more volume on stage while changing the way the cab is heard in the room by affecting the way the cab projects sound, and by partially blocking the front of the cab the overall room volume is lowered. Everyone else is trying to make the guitar rig more efficient – I’m going the other way and having success in affecting the speakers and how they project sound and making what comes out into the room less efficient.  It’s an interesting thing to stand on stage near my Marshall 4 x 12 cab and hear what it’s doing, and then walk away  and stand 25 – 50 feet away and listen from that vantage point. I’ll have to come up with a cool logo that I can silk-screen onto the black acoustical pads that will be highly visible and something that people can have fun with.  I’ve thought of a cartoon picture of someone yellling "Let `er rip."  Or a huge buffalo partially sitting on a half stack.  Or maybe something just plain and simple like bold type that reads "Turn it up." When do you get your JTM 45 back from Mark at Victoria Amps?  Any word yet on his go-through?  And what are you using in the meantime? All the best, Pete. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello Pete and Hello Pt, >Thank you Pete for your kind words.  I have had some experience in gigging >with my `74 Marshall Super Lead half stack in small to medium clubs, so I >can comment not from being an expert but from my own experience. >Putting cabs and amps in the backline and aiming them at the audience is >something that I rarely do anymore.  I prefer sidefill – the cab aimed at >the other side of the stage.  I stand on the right side, to my left (in the >middle) is the bass player, to his left – on the left side of the stage – is >the other guitar player.  The drummer is behind the bass player. >I put the Super Lead half stack on my side of the stage, so that when I take >about 1 – 2 steps back from the vocal mic, I’m stepping into the projection >of sound from the cab.  The other guitarist does the same from his side of >the stage, aiming his cab at my side of the stage.  The result is that we >hear each other very well, we contain the stage volume so we get to play a >little louder (grin….), the sound guy mics our cabs and uses the house >system to play the room, and we get some volume coming off the front of >stage for the audience close to the front.  And no one in the audience has a >cab aimed at them and hurting them. >I just realized last night, that I no longer have things arranged like >they were when I was getting the best use out of my cabinet.  The way >the cabinet worked the best was when it was behind me.  The way it is >now, it’s pointing at my right side, and I’m fighting it. >Even with the plywood sheet idea, but it does tame the problem. >Additionally, I use a wooden frame system and acoustic pads hung from the >frame.  I put the frame and pads up close to the front of the grill of the 4 >x 12 cab, moving it closer and farther away to suit my needs.  The pads >interfere with the speaker’s ability to project sound  and interrupt the >"beam" from the cab.  The result is that within close proximity to the cab I >can hear myself real well (grin…..) so I can use that volume level and >sustain as part of my tool-bag for playing guitar, but as you move away from >the cab the volume heard is more peripheral and not directional.  The sound >guys love this system and can dial in the house pretty easily, and I get my >tone and sound and can contain the stage volume. >The next time you take the cab out to a gig, take along a thick, old quilt. >Put the cab on two chairs on your side of the stage, aimed at the other side >of the stage.  Take two more chairs, and move the backs of the chairs close >to the front of the cab.  Drape the thick, old quilt over the two chairs in >front of the cab, and move the chairs and quilt closer to the cab, or >farther away, depending on what you hear.  You’ll find that you get to play >a little louder, and the sound guy can mic your cab for the house system, >and if you can get the other guitar player, etc, to also use sidefill from >his side of the stage, you’ll be able to hear each other real well. >I think I’m going to rearrange things, so that my cabinet is behind >me, as previously mentioned, and I want to try your frame idea some >time. >I just noticed some very heavy edge protecting material that I’ve been >saving that came packed around a furnace my brother installed a while >back.  It’s been sitting here, waiting for me to decide what to do >with it.  It might be perfect for a frame for home use, but it >wouldn’t be roadworthy.  Just to test the frame thing, it might be >perfect. >Rex – the other guitar player in "The Relics," often uses his reissue AC30 >on an amp stand, and aims it at me.  He doesn’t block the front of the cab. >I aim my 4 x 12 cab at his side of the stage, and I partially block the >front of the cab (I have a little louder stage volume, so the partial >blocking helps to equalize both Rex and I for stage volume.  Craig the bass >player gets to stand in the middle and get stereo Rex and Scott (grin…..). >He wears ear protectors. >I’d like to see Rex play some time. >Some guys who play at fairly loud stage volume will sometimes aim the cabs >up in the air, or turn them around and aim them at the back wall in back of >the stage.  I’ve heard a story about SRV playing a large arena in Texas >where he was overpowering the house system with his stage volume, so the >tech put his cabs on their back aimed up in the air and that solved the >problem. >A few people noted how Springstein (they’re saying "bruce") had his >cabinets aimed straight up when he appeared on TV a few times before >his last tour.  I’ve never tried that.  The time I saw him on TV (the >Today Show?) he was outdoors though.  And he had them pointing up, but >of course there was no ceiling overhead to reflect the sound back >down. >But I think in that situation, they pretty much wanted most of his >sound to vanish into thin air. >Cab placement on stage (knowing where the sound is going and where the cab >is aimed, and what it will produce at loud stage volume) and partial >blocking of the front of the cab allows me to use my half stack in a bunch >of smaller to medium sized clubs.  Another technique that Kent P. uses is a >different value pre-amp tube in the third position pre-amp socket, using a >12AX7 in the 1st and 2nd pre-amp sockets, and a different value tube in the >third socket of his Marshall – try a 12AT7, a 12AY7, etc, and see what you >like.  Different value tubes in that socket will affect the room volume of >the amp – you may or may not like the tone and sound.  Experiment and see >what you think. >All the best!  Have fun…. >Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott >I had put a Mullard 12AT7 in the first slot of my JTM45, and Mark >asked me why I put it there.  I said, well…. because it’s the only >Mullard I have, and I hit it with an OD pedal anyhow, so I don’t need >all that much gain in the first slot.  He told me that it’d be better >in the PI slot, because it would hit the output tubes harder than a >12AX7 does. >So there’s this looming question about gain vs. current output on the >phase inverter tube.  I wonder if the second preamp tube in a Marshall >would be a better one to use a lower gain preamp tube in when trying >to lower the amp’s volume level. >Pete >– >Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello Pete, >You’ve got enough spare good tubes to try a lot of combinations in that JTM >45.  Grab a log book and write down the tubes, combinations of pre-amp >tubes, etc, and through listening come up with a set of pre-amp tubes that >you find are the best for what you do. >If you have a handy interior wall, try putting some of that packing material >against the wall, and put your 2 x 12 cab around 6 inches from it – facing >the material.  See what you think.  Move the cab closer or farther away and >find the right combination of distance from that material and your cab, and >the gain and volume you’re using from your overdrive pedal and amp. >I’ve been "beta testing" my wooden frame and acoustical pads now for years. >I have a seamstress friend who came over today and got one of my original >pads so she can make a pattern and measure it, and I’ll give some thought to >having some made along with a frame that either is bolted and glued together >and ready for use, or, a kit that I can put together that the end user can >then bolt and glue and construct from the parts. >After I have a chance to see what the cost is, I’ll consider marketing this >baffle system and selling some.  I know that it works, I know what it does >and how it allows the player to get more volume on stage while changing the >way the cab is heard in the room by affecting the way the cab projects >sound, and by partially blocking the front of the cab the overall room >volume is lowered. >Everyone else is trying to make the guitar rig more efficient – I’m going >the other way and having success in affecting the speakers and how they >project sound and making what comes out into the room less efficient.  It’s >an interesting thing to stand on stage near my Marshall 4 x 12 cab and hear >what it’s doing, and then walk away  and stand 25 – 50 feet away and listen >from that vantage point. >I’ll have to come up with a cool logo that I can silk-screen onto the black >acoustical pads that will be highly visible and something that people can >have fun with.  I’ve thought of a cartoon picture of someone yellling "Let >`er rip."  Or a huge buffalo partially sitting on a half stack.  Or maybe >something just plain and simple like bold type that reads "Turn it up." >When do you get your JTM 45 back from Mark at Victoria Amps?  Any word yet >on his go-through?  And what are you using in the meantime? >All the best, Pete. >Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott

Hopefully, it’ll be done soon.  He said they probably wouldn’t get to it for about a week, and a week would have been last Thursday.  I might have to call today.  There were a few other amps to work on first. I’m using my SF Bassman head at the moment, and I’ve been having trouble with my sound a lot lately.  Even after rearranging things yesterday.  I haven’t decided what the problem is.  I think I might set the 2×12 cabinet aside though, and go back to using the 4×10. Pete — Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

>Hopefully, it’ll be done soon.  He said they probably wouldn’t get to >it for about a week, and a week would have been last Thursday.  I >might have to call today.  There were a few other amps to work on >first. >I’m using my SF Bassman head at the moment, and I’ve been having >trouble with my sound a lot lately.  Even after rearranging things >yesterday.  I haven’t decided what the problem is.  I think I might >set the 2×12 cabinet aside though, and go back to using the 4×10. >Pete

It should get to the bench in a couple days. So hopefully, I’ll have it back before this weekend. About your earlier suggestion of facing the speaker towards a wall, and maybe covering it with packing material; I was thinking about that a bit today, and started designing (in my head) a shallow cubical out of plywood, and that could be just wide enough to fit a 2×12 or 4×12 into, and be covered with mattress padding to absorb sound. Then it occurred to me, that while that would probably be effective, it’s probably a bit over-designed.   But I do have most of a 4×8 1/4" sheet of luan plywood.  And I could probably use a 48"x48" square of it, and cover it with mattress pad material, and set that up at any wall I pointed a cabinet at. That probably has some possibilities, but I don’t know if it’ll muffle my sound too much.  I suppose that might depend on how close it is to the padding.  It’d probably need some EQ correction. Pete — Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a 50 watt JCM Head (EL-34’s) and a model 1936 cabinet. > 2X12. > When playing in clubs people complain that those who are sitting in > direct line of my cabinet hear it too loud while those to one side do > not hear it loud enough. > I am considering making a new back that will be mostly open. > Thus an open back cabinet. > I have 75 watt Celestions that I like and I do not want to change the > speakers. > After 15 years of use they are broken in nicely. > Will it have a big effect in my sound? > Will it cut down on volume? > Will it be less directional? > Thanks for any help you can offer. > Pt

you need to put a mike in front of it and put a small feed in the p.a. not too loud.. georgio — spammers suck!!! remover the *no spam* part in my email for reply

Response:

Hello Pete, I hope you are happy with that JTM 45 when you get it back.  It has looked like from your prior posts that it’s a good amp for you, so I hope you continue to enjoy it. Years ago I was invited to a radio station to do some live music on the air with my band at that time.  I took a Crate Vintage 30 combo and my Les Paul, and proceeded to kind of "build" an enclosure of cushions, quilts, and stuff around the combo so I could play at volume in this small outer room adjoining the air studio and not blow everyone out of the building.  Worked pretty well. I have a very small practice amp that I sometimes put on the couch, facing the back of the couch, and adjusting the distance between the small combo and the back couch cushion, I can crank it up some and still keep the room volume down.  Experiment and find the combination of amp or cab placement, distance from the sound absorbing material, etc, and see what you think. I’ve been really enjoying my old Tele – having that re-fretted was a good thing – it’s a joy to play now and the string bending is fun like it should be.  When funds allow, I’ll do my Strat as well. Let me know what you experience with your JTM 45.  All the best, Pete. Walk in Beauty, Peace.  Scott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hopefully, it’ll be done soon.  He said they probably wouldn’t get to >it for about a week, and a week would have been last Thursday.  I >might have to call today.  There were a few other amps to work on >first. >I’m using my SF Bassman head at the moment, and I’ve been having >trouble with my sound a lot lately.  Even after rearranging things >yesterday.  I haven’t decided what the problem is.  I think I might >set the 2×12 cabinet aside though, and go back to using the 4×10. >Pete >It should get to the bench in a couple days. So hopefully, I’ll have >it back before this weekend. >About your earlier suggestion of facing the speaker towards a wall, >and maybe covering it with packing material; I was thinking about that >a bit today, and started designing (in my head) a shallow cubical out >of plywood, and that could be just wide enough to fit a 2×12 or 4×12 >into, and be covered with mattress padding to absorb sound. >Then it occurred to me, that while that would probably be effective, >it’s probably a bit over-designed. >But I do have most of a 4×8 1/4" sheet of luan plywood.  And I could >probably use a 48"x48" square of it, and cover it with mattress pad >material, and set that up at any wall I pointed a cabinet at. >That probably has some possibilities, but I don’t know if it’ll muffle >my sound too much.  I suppose that might depend on how close it is to >the padding.  It’d probably need some EQ correction. >Pete >– >Now you know why I used the qualifier "practically" –Bender

Response:

Question:

Comments? For the past two months, Peloquin has been trying to poke holes in a regulation that agency officials say was approved in response to chronic complaints about what they claim are increasingly popular, but poorly designed heating systems. "This (outdoor waterstoves) is a big backwards step in the idea of burning wood," said Christian Jones, compliance chief for the agency’s air pollution control division. According to Jones, the waterstoves are designed to be loaded up with large amounts of wood that slowly smolders creating emissions that far exceed those generated by certified woodstoves. "These units violate the rules of good combustion," he said, adding: "We’re not opposed to all kinds of wood burning, we’d just like people to burn wood cleanly and responsibly." http://timesargus.com/Local/Story/77922.html

Response:

Vermont has implemented a regulation banning them in some circumstances, and providing setback and chimney height requirements where they are permitted. Notably, this regulation is written so that a clean burning device is not affected. There have been significant problems with smoke from the smouldering moronic designs affecting neighbors and entire towns. The typical waterstove is a creosote factory. They get loaded up with wood in a combustion chamber which is directly surrounded by water, so there is always a cool (200F or less – cool to a flame) surface condensing creosote around the wood; this prevents efficent combustion. They are controlled thermostatically to smoulder until the water cools, then blow for a bit to burn wood, then smoulder, then burn. They often have a smokestack which is all of 5 feet off the ground, and tend to spew smoke sideways. Some designs adress a few of these points, most do not, some pay lip service to them but still pollute like the majority of the rest. As a class, they are indeed a huge step backwards – inefficent and polluting. Intelligent wood-burning water-furnace designs combine a heat store of several hundred gallons with burning all the wood loaded full-bore, and have very low emissions, through use of high-temperature secondary combustion in refractory tunnels. These are typically installed inside – the "outside waterstove" industry was basically spawned in an attempt to get around regulations requiring indoor wood furnaces and wood stoves to be low-polluting. A qualified indoor wood furnace could (with use of antifreeze, etc) be installed outdoors if preferred, so as to not drag wood into the house, etc, but due to the clean burn, would not be subjected to the Vermont regulation on polluting waterstoves. — Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by

Response:

There are boilers, then there are boilers. TARM’s gasifier produces little smoke. a Central Boiler produces lots of it. Even a CB is cleaner than an oil furnace. Many outdoor boilers are not designed to burn clean and efficiently. We take clean units, like the TARM, and stick it in a small concrete building with a large storage tank. Much more efficient than a self contained "outdoor" boiler, but same idea. — Steve Spence Renewable energy and sustainable living http://www.green-trust.org Donate $30 or more to Green Trust, and receive a copy of Joshua Tickell’s "From the Fryer to the Fuel Tank", the premier documentary of biodiesel and vegetable oil powered diesels.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Comments? > For the past two months, Peloquin has been trying to poke holes in a regulation > that agency officials say was approved in response to chronic complaints about > what they claim are increasingly popular, but poorly designed heating systems. > "This (outdoor waterstoves) is a big backwards step in the idea of burning > wood," said Christian Jones, compliance chief for the agency’s air pollution > control division. > According to Jones, the waterstoves are designed to be loaded up with large > amounts of wood that slowly smolders creating emissions that far exceed those > generated by certified woodstoves. > "These units violate the rules of good combustion," he said, adding: "We’re not > opposed to all kinds of wood burning, we’d just like people to burn wood > cleanly and responsibly." > http://timesargus.com/Local/Story/77922.html

Response:

>The typical waterstove is a creosote factory. They get loaded up with >wood in a combustion chamber which is directly surrounded by water, so >there is always a cool (200F or less – cool to a flame) surface >condensing creosote around the wood; this prevents efficent combustion.

I’ve heard much the same from the Masonry Stove Association. A clean burn seems to require a hot firebox. An efficient burn seems to require a low- temp or (ideally) condensing chimney. >They are controlled thermostatically to smoulder until the water cools, >then blow for a bit to burn wood, then smoulder, then burn. They often >have a smokestack which is all of 5 feet off the ground, and tend to >spew smoke sideways.

Thermostatic control is a good idea, in general. Forced draft makes lower chimney heights possible, with lower initial cost. These days, why waste lots of heat and chimney materials to make a draft that is better provided with a small fan that’s also responsive to the amount of heat needed? >Intelligent wood-burning water-furnace designs combine a heat store of >several hundred gallons with burning all the wood loaded full-bore, and >have very low emissions, through use of high-temperature secondary >combustion in refractory tunnels.

It seems to me that the inherent thermal mass of a typical house can store enough heat for a reasonable overnight setback, eg 70 F at 8 PM, and 60 F at 8 AM. And for a given heat exchanger, burning wood at a low rate could be more efficient than "full bore." >A qualified indoor wood furnace could (with use of antifreeze, etc) be >installed outdoors if preferred, so as to not drag wood into the house…

Outdoor woodstoves have other advantages, eg indoor space savings, less indoor mess, a higher firebox that’s more convenient for people, bigger chunks of wood which require less cutting, and greater fire safety. I suggest a horizontal 55 gallon drumstove in an box near a house window with a fan to circulate air between the house and the box through two 8" round ducts in the lower part of the window, eg Grainger’s 61 W 550 cfm 4C847 $72 10" round fan and 2E158 $14 room temp thermostat. At its upper limit of 158 F, the fan might move about (158-70)550 = 38K Btu/h. The box might be about 2′x2′x4′ long, made from $11 4′x8′x1" sheets of Atlas Energy Shield "R7.2" double-foil polyiso board (which begins to discolor at about 400 F), with a 9′x6" chimney with 7′x6" and 7′x8" heat exchange pipes inside an 8′x1′x1′ downdraft passage of an 8′x1′x2′ vertical foamboard duct. A 6"x5′ pipe costs $5.98 at Home Depot, 8"x5′ pipes are $7.97, 8"x2′ pipes are $3.25, 8" elbows are $3.48, a 6" Chinese hat for the top costs $7.35, and a 10" to 8" reducer to mount the fan costs $5.75. We might put the box on top of 4 stacks of 3 8" blocks and tie the chimney down to the blocks with guy wires. The fan could blow room air from the lower part of the house window into an 8′x1′x1′ updraft chimney flue passage, then down past the heat exchange pipes in the other 8′x1′x1′ passage, around the drum and back into the house window, providing more combustion air through the drum door when house heat is needed. If 10 cfm of smoke flows out of the drum at 1200 F and out the chimney at 100 F, after condensation, we need a heat exchanger effectiveness E = (1200-100)/(1200-70) = 0.973. With 550 cfm of room airflow and a rate ratio z = 10/550 = 0.02 and E = (1-e^-0.98NTU)/(1-0.02e^-0.98NTU) = 0.973, NTU = 3.67, and A = NTUxCmin/U = 3.67×10/1.5 = 24.5 ft^2, approximately. We might put a 6"x7′ steel pipe with end caps inside an 8"x7′ pipe, and unsnap 2 2"x6′ edges of each pipe and bend 1"x6′ Ls along the edges and screw the flat parts of the Ls together with some stove cement, like this, looking down, viewed in a fixed font: 8" pipe .          . 6" pipe         .  smoke   .         .          .         .     1"   .         . .       1".s. (screw)   1"    . .         gap  4"       inside   1"    . .       1".s. (screw)         . .         .     1"   .         .          .         .  smoke   .         .          . so room air can get inside the 4" gap to the inner pipe, and attach an 8" to 6" reducer to each end of the 8" pipe to make smoke travel up between the pipes, with about 7Pi/12(6+8) = 25.7 ft^2 of heat exchange surface. Nick

Response:

… > I’ve heard much the same from the Masonry Stove Association. A clean burn > seems to require a hot firebox. An efficient burn seems to require a low- > temp or (ideally) condensing chimney.

An efficient burn requires that the wood be very very hot. A cool burn would leave part of the wood as carbon ash and complex waxes that can form in the exhaust. That is why a simple fire place accumulates creosote in the chimney. A hot enough fire will burn all this to ash. This (hot hot hot) is the start of an efficient system. The rest is an adequate air and exhaust flow and efficient removal and recirculation of heat.

Response:

>It seems to me that the inherent thermal mass of a typical house can store >enough heat for a reasonable overnight setback, eg 70 F at 8 PM, and 60 F >at 8 AM…

Well, maybe not. A "typical" house with 400 Btu/h-F of conductance and 4K Btu/F of capacitance needs about 12h(65-30)400 = 168K Btu of overnight heat on a 30 F day, but it can only store 40K Btu with a 10 F temp swing. We might add about (168K-40K)/(150F-70F) = 1600 Btu/F of thermal mass in a fireless indoor "masonry chimney" or under the ceiling, heated by 150 F air from a woodstove or sunspace, with a slow ceiling fan and a thermostat to bring down heat as needed. One option would be 1600/64 = 25 ft^3 of water in 96′ of 16" diameter poly film duct laid flat in a 22.5" wide x 2" deep pieces on top of an 8′x12′ plywood platform hung from the ceiling with 2×4 spacers on edge, with a layer of foil below the plywood for less radiation. The platform might have hidden fluorescent lights above the perimeter. Nick

Response:

Question:

My wife is extremely sensitive to dry air and dust, and I have to look at getting a good humidifier and possibly a hepa filter as well. I have a furnace mount humidifier, but my hygrometer still reads about 30 instead of up around 50 where I’d like it. I have been looking at the ultrasonic models as well as the floor models that do up to 2500 sq ft. If anyone has experiences they’d like to share in this area it’d be greatly appreciated. Humidifier – cool mist or warm? floor or table model? wick or ultrasonic? Hepa filter  - room model or furnace mounted? *seems to me the furnace mounted would clean the air then send it through the dusty ductwork, whereas the room model cleans the air as you are breathing it? thanks in advance

Response:

> My wife is extremely sensitive to dry air and dust, and I have to look at > getting a good humidifier and possibly a hepa filter as well. > I have a furnace mount humidifier, but my hygrometer still reads about 30 > instead of up around 50 where I’d like it. I have been looking at the > ultrasonic models as well as the floor models that do up to 2500 sq ft.

I have the exact same problems your wife does.  This is what worked for me: 1)  Bionaire W7 console humidifier and ACCURATE hygrometer in an adjacent room.  Aim for 40% humidity.  Any higher, and your wife might have new problems (like a "sudden" allergy to mold spores)  Also, I’d recommend the W6 or W9 over the W7 that we use. 2)  Allergy barrier covers for your mattress, box spring and pillows.  A lot of the dust that bothers your wife is IN YOUR BED.  Allergy barriers block the stuff that dust mites feed on.  Use allergy barriers, and change the sheets OFTEN. 3)  Buy a high quality HEPA filter vacuum, and use it often. 4)  Buy a Honeywell brand HEPA air purifier for your bedroom.  Check the CADR rating before you buy, and buy one oversized for your bedroom.  (that way, you can run it at a lower fan speed to reduce noise) Optional:  Buy more than one Honeywell HEPA air purifier, perhaps one in the family room and kitchen?  (or wherever your wife spends the most time when she’s not asleep).  If you have curtains or blinds in the bedroom windows, remove them.  Consider using just a regular roll-up shade, as this attracts less dust.  Remove all area rugs immediately, and consider removing all carpets from the house.  Tile or hardwood is easier to clean, if you need to control dust. Using the above methods, I’ve reduced bloody noses to about twice a year (down from twice a week or more), and have had similar success controlling allergy attacks, even though I have severe allergies to many things, including dust. 30% is not terribly low for humidity.  Much lower than that will cause problems.  But higher than 40% will cause problems, also.    -Dave

Response:

Question:

I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the air intake, inside the house. Has anyone heard of that as the sole filter before a furnace? It seems a bit awkaward to me seing that there will be about 50′ of ductwork between the filter and the furnace. That’s an awful lot of room for the air to pick up various contaminants through any possible gaps in the ductwork. The house is over 30 years old so I assume that the duct work isn’t very air tight and I assure you the attic is chock full of dust. So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? FYI, the unit is a downflow Trane XV80. Thanks, Frank

Response:

>So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the >installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of >the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs?

        You mean *they put the flue there and blocked the filter access* ????    Shit oh dear, they need to come back and fix it !!!! >~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~

Please look at http://helpthecritters.com/ , my new domain for helping critters !!! My personal WWW site is at  http://www.pmilligan.net , featuring free HVAC, stock market, and other free software Those who say a thing can not be done should get out of the way of those who are actually doing it.

Response:

PJM, The installer mentioned that even if the flue does come out the side, there will not be enough room for the original filter rack between the top of the furnace and the existing air intake duct. The original filters are actually 2 filters in a V configuration. He did say that they could build a makeshift filter tray out of sheet metal which I believe is simply cutting a slot in the part that connects the furnace to the intake duct. He will then cover it with a piece of sheetmetal that will screw into the duct. However, this method will not be airtight and I risk having air from my garage cycle into the house. Since I use my garage as a wood shop, there is frequently smells of paints and stains that I would rather not circulate. Are there such things as pre-manufactured filter trays that can be mounted into existing duct with sealable tray slots? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the >installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of >the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? >    You mean *they put the flue there and blocked the filter >access* ????        Shit oh dear, they need to come back and fix it !!!! >~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~ >Please look at http://helpthecritters.com/ , my new domain for helping critters !!! >My personal WWW site is at  http://www.pmilligan.net , >featuring free HVAC, stock market, and other free software >Those who say a thing can not be done >should get out of the way of those >who are actually doing it.

Response:

>I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not >fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit >and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of >a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the >air intake, inside the house.

That is where all of my filters are located.  In fact most of the homes in the area where I am have them located at the return in the house.  The only ones located at the furnace are installations with electronic filters.

Response:

You’re absolutely correct lousy place for a filter !! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not > fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit > and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of > a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the > air intake, inside the house. > Has anyone heard of that as the sole filter before a furnace? It seems a > bit awkaward to me seing that there will be about 50′ of ductwork > between the filter and the furnace. That’s an awful lot of room for the > air to pick up various contaminants through any possible gaps in the > ductwork. The house is over 30 years old so I assume that the duct work > isn’t very air tight and I assure you the attic is chock full of dust. > So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the > installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of > the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? > FYI, the unit is a downflow Trane XV80. > Thanks, > Frank

Response:

I’m assuming you mean at the return grill. That’s a very common place to install a filter. Also, if your return runs through the attic and isn’t sealed and insulated, then you’ve got more to worry about than the placement of your filter. Get prices on cleaning, sealing, and insulating your return (or you may just want to replace the return pipe instead of cleaning it).

I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the air intake, inside the house. Has anyone heard of that as the sole filter before a furnace? It seems a bit awkaward to me seing that there will be about 50′ of ductwork between the filter and the furnace. That’s an awful lot of room for the air to pick up various contaminants through any possible gaps in the ductwork. The house is over 30 years old so I assume that the duct work isn’t very air tight and I assure you the attic is chock full of dust. So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? FYI, the unit is a downflow Trane XV80. Thanks, Frank

Response:

All of the houses in my subdivision are like that.  About 90% of the air handlers are in the attic so it is best that way. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not >fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit >and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of >a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the >air intake, inside the house. >Has anyone heard of that as the sole filter before a furnace? It seems a >bit awkaward to me seing that there will be about 50′ of ductwork >between the filter and the furnace. That’s an awful lot of room for the >air to pick up various contaminants through any possible gaps in the >ductwork. The house is over 30 years old so I assume that the duct work >isn’t very air tight and I assure you the attic is chock full of dust. >So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the >installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of >the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? >FYI, the unit is a downflow Trane XV80. >Thanks, >Frank

Response:

This is the way its done with 95% of the residential systems here…. the other 5% are still changing the filter in the furnace itself — Please send my consulting fee of $60.00 (USD) for replying to this message to; Noon-Air Heating & Air Conditioning Svc PO Box 343 Purvis MS 39475

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just had my furnace/coil/AC etc replaced and the installers could not > fit the filter at the furnace. The problem is that it is a downflow unit > and the flue covers the intake vent, effectively making the placement of > a filter impossible. They said they would simply place the filter at the > air intake, inside the house. > Has anyone heard of that as the sole filter before a furnace? It seems a > bit awkaward to me seing that there will be about 50′ of ductwork > between the filter and the furnace. That’s an awful lot of room for the > air to pick up various contaminants through any possible gaps in the > ductwork. The house is over 30 years old so I assume that the duct work > isn’t very air tight and I assure you the attic is chock full of dust. > So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the > installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of > the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs? > FYI, the unit is a downflow Trane XV80. > Thanks, > Frank

Response:

> That is where all of my filters are located.  In fact most of the > homes in the area where I am have them located at the return in the > house.  The only ones located at the furnace are installations with > electronic filters

Doesn’t that assume one return for the entire house?  Ours has a return in EVERY room. -Tim

Response:

>Doesn’t that assume one return for the entire house?  Ours has a return in >EVERY room.

We had that in our house in NJ, but we also had a furnace that was in the basement.  here the furnaces’ heat exchanger is usually outside the house and the air handlers are in the crawl space  and the attic. (Code also requires that returns are not located in each room, but in central ;locations.

Response:

> (Code also requires that returns are not located in each room, but in > central ;locations.

Why on earth would code require that?  Having a return in every room makes things heat MUCH more evenly, especially in rooms like bedrooms that you like to keep the door closed. We had some rooms in our old place without returns– they were MUCH colder than those with returns. -Tim

Response:

There are plenty of filter return grilles that can be installed..   PJM,   The installer mentioned that even if the flue does come out the side, there will not be enough room for the original filter rack between the top of the furnace and the existing air intake duct. The original filters are actually 2 filters in a V configuration. He did say that they could build a makeshift filter tray out of sheet metal which I believe is simply cutting a slot in the part that connects the furnace to the intake duct. He will then cover it with a piece of sheetmetal that will screw into the duct. However, this method will not be airtight and I risk having air from my garage cycle into the house. Since I use my garage as a wood shop, there is frequently smells of paints and stains that I would rather not circulate.   Are there such things as pre-manufactured filter trays that can be mounted into existing duct with sealable tray slots?

So my question is, is this feasable? Is it common? Or should I tell the installers to undue their work, place the exhaust flue out the side of the unit (which is possible), and place the filter where it belongs?         You mean *they put the flue there and blocked the filter access* ????    Shit oh dear, they need to come back and fix it !!!! ~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~ Please look at http://helpthecritters.com/ , my new domain for helping critters !!! My personal WWW site is at  http://www.pmilligan.net , featuring free HVAC, stock market, and other free software Those who say a thing can not be done should get out of the way of those who are actually doing it.

Response:

Question:

I’m sure this has been discussed before but I want to tap the wisdom of the present group and knowledge of current technology. For the purposes of heating the air inside a house (100 yr old stick-built, recently well insulated) which way would you go? Presently no possibility of a mass to store heat other than hot water tank storage. 1) solar collectors heating air pumped into the house to heat the house. 2) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > heat taken out of the liquid to heat air to heat the house. 3) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > run through piping under wood floors to heat the house. 4) other Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

Response:

… > For the purposes of heating the air inside a house (100 yr old stick-built, > recently well insulated) which way would you go? Presently no possibility of > a mass to store heat other than hot water tank storage. > 1) solar collectors heating air pumped into the house to heat the house.

This is the cheapest way to go, especially if you make the collectors yourself. The collectors can be made from parts available at any home improvement store very easily. You will still need backup heat of course. I would start with these and then go from there. > 2) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > heat taken out > of the liquid to heat air to heat the house.

This is more expensive but it gives you the option of having a huge tank which can store some heat for cloudy days or cold nights. This also lets you use a water heater as a source of heat instead of a furnace. > 3) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > run through > piping under wood floors to heat the house.

This is the same option as number 2. It’s the same heat, no matter how you use it. Anthony

Response:

Thanks for your thoughtful reply Anthony, just one clarification, me > 2) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > heat taken out > of the liquid to heat air to heat the house.

A. > This is more expensive but it gives you the option of having a huge tank > which can store some heat for cloudy days or cold nights. This also lets > you use a water heater as a source of heat instead of a furnace.

me > 3) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > run through > piping under wood floors to heat the house.

A. > This is the same option as number 2. It’s the same heat, no matter how > you use it.

The difference between the two would be that in # 2) above, by extracting the heat from the liquid and transferring it to air, I could send it throughout the house through the present hi-efficiency forced air ducting system even if some of the heat were stored in hot water tanks before extraction  BUT in # 3) above the hot liquid would circulate (possibly after storage) through PEX or similar piping installed only for that purpose under the present flooring or through baseboard heaters (neither of which are there now). I’m trying to get a fix on a method of keeping an interior space feeling comfortable with a good balance of reasonable initial cost and low or non-existent low long-term running costs.

Response:

> The difference between the two would be that in # 2) above, by extracting > the heat from the liquid and transferring it to air, I could send it > throughout the house through the present hi-efficiency forced air ducting > system even if some of the heat were stored in hot water tanks before > extraction  BUT in # 3) above the hot liquid would circulate (possibly after > storage) through PEX or similar piping installed only for that purpose under > the present flooring or through baseboard heaters (neither of which are > there now). > I’m trying to get a fix on a method of keeping an interior space feeling > comfortable with a good balance of reasonable initial cost and low or > non-existent low long-term running costs.

Foced air heating creates noise, gathers dust and blows it about. Underfloor heating is silent, feels nicer, and not dusty. But its also far more $ to install. So, your shout really. Regards, NT

Response:

3 with storage – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I’m sure this has been discussed before but I want to tap the wisdom of the >present group and knowledge of current technology. >For the purposes of heating the air inside a house (100 yr old stick-built, >recently well insulated) which way would you go? Presently no possibility of >a mass to store heat other than hot water tank storage. >1) solar collectors heating air pumped into the house to heat the house. >2) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > heat taken out >of the liquid to heat air to heat the house. >3) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > run through >piping under wood floors to heat the house. >4) other >Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

Response:

Another consideration – underfloor heating will be slower to respond to temperature changes than forced hot air. On the other hand, you will feel warmer and more comfortable with warm floors and a room temp of 60F than with cool floors and a room temp of 70F. If you can afford it, I think the floor heating is the way to go.  You should actually need to produce less heat to be comfortable. Bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > 3 with storage >I’m sure this has been discussed before but I want to tap the wisdom of the >present group and knowledge of current technology. >For the purposes of heating the air inside a house (100 yr old stick-built, >recently well insulated) which way would you go? Presently no possibility of >a mass to store heat other than hot water tank storage. >1) solar collectors heating air pumped into the house to heat the house. >2) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > heat taken out >of the liquid to heat air to heat the house. >3) solar collectors heating a liquid pumped into the house > run through >piping under wood floors to heat the house. >4) other >Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated

Response:

> > I’m trying to get a fix on a method of keeping an interior space feeling > comfortable with a good balance of reasonable initial cost and low or > non-existent low long-term running costs. > Foced air heating creates noise, gathers dust and blows it about. > Underfloor heating is silent, feels nicer, and not dusty. But its also > far more $ to install. So, your shout really.

But it will warm up the house a lot faster.  Ever come home from a long trip and have to wait for a cold house with ’slab’ heating to warm up?  But on the other hand ever get out of bed and slap you feet onto a cold tile floor? I guess its sort of a toss up :)

Response:

Question:

>The fan has automatic shutters and the return is open, should this >(the shutters) not prevent cooling at night by convetion currents…

It should. >Sounds like there won’t be a lot of heat to remove. You can only store >about 250gx8Btu/g(100F-80F) = 40K Btu (12 kWh) of heat this way. Is that >enough to be useful? >That does not really sound worth it. >What if I built a frame of 1×6" wood around the tubes so I could put a >clear plastic cover over them like a collector  The temp difference >between the area around the tubes and the shop should be much greater then.

You might double the stored heat that way, but do you have enough solar glazing to keep the shop warm now? How large is the shop? Does it have any insulation? What’s its thermal conductance? How much sun falls on a south wall where you live on an average December day, and what’s the outdoor temp? Nick

Response:

My shop has a 10′ x 24′ greenhouse along the south wall, on a day like today the temps are: outside -10C, in shop 11(as low as the gas furnace will let it go) and 18 near top of greenhouse. This is still 10AM by midafternoon the top of the gh will be near 30.  I now have a fan on a thermostat blowing air out of the gh into the shop. The fan is about 8′ off the floor and the return is at floor level, under the workbench.   The plan: I have a 250 gal gas tank which I will put in the shop.  For the solution in the tank i would like to use a brine of calcium cloride like used in tractor tires or a sodium cloride brine using water softener salt, haven’t compared prices on these yet.  Is the specific heat of a concentrated CaCl solution much difffertent to NaCl?  To use anti freeze would be too expensive to protect 250 gal against -40 temps in mid winter. On the north wall of the greenhouse I plan to run a loop of 400′ of 1/2 or 3/4" black poly hose.  The hose would run horizontaly back and forth 4" apart and 1" off the white painted wall.  This loop would be fed by a thermostaticly controled pump from the bottom of the tank and return to the top. To remove heat from this I plan on pumping the solution through an aluminium radiator (AC condenser from an old car) with a fan behind it. I can do this for the price of the 400′ of tubing and a few fittings, about $100 plus the cost of the salt.  You guys think it would be worth doing? Any comments welcome, Thanks Keith

Response:

>My shop has a 10′ x 24′ greenhouse along the south wall, on a day like >today the temps are: outside -10C, in shop 11(as low as the gas >furnace will let it go) and 18 near top of greenhouse. This is still >10AM by midafternoon the top of the gh will be near 30.  I now have a >fan on a thermostat blowing air out of the gh into the shop. The fan >is about 8′ off the floor and the return is at floor level, under the >workbench.  

Sounds good, with a one-way plastic film damper to keep the greenhouse from cooling the shop at night. Seems to me you don’t have lot of extra heat from the greenhouse, maybe not enough to collect or store it, if it only reaches 30 (86 F) by the end of the day. >I have a 250 gal gas tank which I will put in the shop.  For the >solution in the tank i would like to use a brine of calcium cloride >like used in tractor tires or a sodium cloride brine…

This may corrode the tank quickly. >On the north wall of the greenhouse I plan to run a loop of 400′ of >1/2 or 3/4" black poly hose.  The hose would run horizontaly back and >forth 4" apart and 1" off the white painted wall… >To remove heat from this I plan on pumping the solution through an >aluminium radiator (AC condenser from an old car) with a fan behind it.

Sounds like there won’t be a lot of heat to remove. You can only store about 250gx8Btu/g(100F-80F) = 40K Btu (12 kWh) of heat this way. Is that enough to be useful? >You guys think it would be worth doing?

I’d stick with the fan. Nick

Response:

>>My shop has a 10′ x 24′ greenhouse along the south wall, on a day like >today the temps are: outside -10C, in shop 11(as low as the gas >furnace will let it go) and 18 near top of greenhouse. This is still >10AM by midafternoon the top of the gh will be near 30.  I now have a >fan on a thermostat blowing air out of the gh into the shop. The fan >is about 8′ off the floor and the return is at floor level, under the >workbench.   >Sounds good, with a one-way plastic film damper to keep the greenhouse >from cooling the shop at night.

The fan has automatic shutters and the return is open, should this (the shutters) not prevent cooling at night by convetion currents, I assume that is how it would lose heat? >I have a 250 gal gas tank which I will put in the shop.  For the >solution in the tank i would like to use a brine of calcium cloride >like used in tractor tires or a sodium cloride brine… >This may corrode the tank quickly.

Not a problem, those tanks are a dime a dozen around here. >On the north wall of the greenhouse I plan to run a loop of 400′ of >1/2 or 3/4" black poly hose.  The hose would run horizontaly back and >forth 4" apart and 1" off the white painted wall… >To remove heat from this I plan on pumping the solution through an >aluminium radiator (AC condenser from an old car) with a fan behind it. >Sounds like there won’t be a lot of heat to remove. You can only store >about 250gx8Btu/g(100F-80F) = 40K Btu (12 kWh) of heat this way. Is that >enough to be useful?

That does not really sound worth it. What if I built a frame of 1×6" wood around the tubes so I could put a clear plastic cover over them like a collector  The temp difference between the area around the tubes and the shop should be much greater then. Say if the temp in this collector was 120F.  I think that could be achieved by the enclosing the tubes but I’m just guessing.  I’m not to clear where you are getting the values for your formula. Thanks Nick Keith

Response:

Question:

> The British practice in cremation is the envy of the world. Our > stringnt environmental and proceures prior to cremation are unrivalled > by any country on the globe. The cremation rate in the UK is second > only to Japan (98%); around 73% of deaths are followed by cremation. > This is not a poor man’s option like in the US,

Ummmm… cremation is not considered a poor man’s option (in the USA), AFAIK.  The people I know who wanted to be/ wish to be when the time comes – cremated – simply prefer it over a traditional burial, for one reason and/or another.  Some have an aversion to being buried in the ground (& want their ashes scattered or kept above ground), or feel that too much space is taken up in cemeteries, etc. Cathy — "Staccato signals of constant information…" ("The Boy in the Bubble")  Paul Simon

Response:

: cremated – simply prefer it over a traditional burial, for one reason and/or : another.  Some have an aversion to being buried in the ground (& want their : ashes scattered or kept above ground), or feel that too much space is taken Yep, like me. I want my ashes spread out over Zion Park… or maybe over PUget Sound. Some area that I really loved basically. Tigress — The root cause of problems is simple overpopulation.  People just aren’t worth very much any more, and they know it.  Makes ‘em testy. …Bev     |    _,,,—,,_          Tigress    /,`.-’`’    -.  ;-;;,_     http://havoc.gtf.gatech.edu/tigress  ’—”(_/–’  `-’_)         Cat by Felix Lee.

Response:

(snip) > I am reminded of a recent story in the news where a funeral home/crematorium > did not send some people the ashes of their relatives  and the ones that did > got the ashes from wood chips when they looked inside the urn. What is worse > is that this place stacked bodies outside in the woods and in a nearby shed. > The operators claimed the furnace or whatever they use to cremate bodies > hadn’t worked in years.

The same sort of greed that fostered the situation in Georgia also has happened to pets: http://www.pvmc.net/Publications/PetCemetery/petcemetery.html Roby

Response:

>>If it helps, I’ve visited a Cremation site.  Ashes are not really >ashes…after an animal is cremated, the remains of bone are put into a >machine and ground down.  So they will be heavier than you’d expect and >there should be alot of them. >I hate to be morbid, but presumably the same process is used in human >cremations?

Yes, more or less.  The major difference is that humans are cremated at much higher temperatures and for a longer period of time.  Modern cremation retorts also use a lot of pressure (mostly due to sealing in the heat inside the retort)–it takes about 10-15 minutes to "reduce" an animal such as a cat or small dog.  It takes about 2 hours to "reduce" a 200 pound human. The remains are located on what is basically a metal stretcher after they cool and as they come out of the retort.  The stretcher is designed to fold in half length-wise and the remains are swept into a grinder that  "reduces" the material even further so that it can fit into an urn.  What is left is predominantly bone and fragments of teeth. In the case of the cremation of my own fatherm (Chapel Hill, North Carolina 1994), I checked the plastic bag for the remnants of his gold tooth–it was there. (I also told the Funeral Director that I would sue him for every nickel he was worth unless it was!! He was polite, but none to pleased to be dealing with an expert in the field when it came to making the "deal" for Daddy’s burial!!!) If you choose cremation for the burial of a (human) loved one, please do not be alarmed if the Funeral Director asks you if the deceased had a pace-maker.  These devices explode during the cremation process and can cause enormous damage to a retort–it must be removed manually before the cremation process–at no additional charge!!.  Also, do NOT be tricked into the purchase of a casket prior to cremation–it is not necessary, but many Funeral Directors know that they can get away with charging you for extravagant (unnecessary) extras when you are at their mercy! Peg Caldwell-Ott Owner of Amaretto (the diabetic Seal Point Siamese) and Alino, his Blue Point brother Forensic Anthropologist, New York City–now in private practice but formerly of the Office of Chief Medical Examiner, NYC "Scientists’ say intelligent life sprang from the sea. Really intelligent life returns to the sea now and then."

Response:

>I think before you decide to have your cat’s ashes cremated that you be >there when they perform it so you can make sure that you are getting the >right ashes.

I wonder if they would even allow you to be there during the process.   > I >am reminded of a recent story in the news where a funeral home/crematorium >did not send some people the ashes of their relatives  and the ones that did >got the ashes from wood chips when they looked inside the urn.

Yes, that is a horrible story.  I think the best thing is to really check out a crematorium before using them.  The one we used came highly recommended and have an excellent reputation. Lauren =^..^= See my cats:   http://photos.yahoo.com/mickey4paws2000

Response:

>I think before you decide to have your cat’s ashes cremated that you be >there when they perform it so you can make sure that you are getting the >right ashes. > I wonder if they would even allow you to be there during the process.

Some do.  The one I visited has a separate room for viewings with a covered window that shows the treadmill that leads to the furnace.  Pet owners can view their animal, than it is taken away and if they wish they can have the window opened and watch as it goes in.  They even allow you to see the remains come out and watch as they were ground up if you really want to be positive. I would have no problem trusting Abby Glen to do my pets when they pass. Sethran – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Well I am long way off from having to visit one but I am going to request to be there. Yes it was a terrible story and a lot of people who relatives there really got screwed. I read people who thought they had the ashes of their dead relative came to learn that they got wood chip ashes instead. I don’t care how highly recommended a place is. If I have to ever cremate Isis I want to be there so I know it is her ashes I am spreading and not someone elses. — Cat Galaxy- The Internet radio station for cats. Meow meow meow!! http://www.live365.com/stations/231353 Real Player and Winamp: 66.28.48.193:10518 The forum for felines everywhere. Join the Cats forum on Delphi http://forums.delphiforums.com/Felinefrenzy/start

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I wonder if they would even allow you to be there during the process. > I >am reminded of a recent story in the news where a funeral home/crematorium >did not send some people the ashes of their relatives  and the ones that did >got the ashes from wood chips when they looked inside the urn. > Yes, that is a horrible story.  I think the best thing is to really check out a > crematorium before using them.  The one we used came highly recommended and > have an excellent reputation. > Lauren > =^..^= > See my cats:   http://photos.yahoo.com/mickey4paws2000

Response:

Hi, I am writing from a British perspecive here so there mabe some differences in our protocol. First of all, I would like to express my disgust at the conduct of the Tri-State Crematory, Georgia in liht of the recent discoery of their malpractice. My condoences aso go out to the families of the deceased. The British practice in cremation is the envy of the world. Our stringnt environmental and proceures prior to cremation are unrivalled by any country on the globe. The cremation rate in the UK is second only to Japan (98%); around 73% of deaths are followed by cremation. This is not a poor man’s option like in the US, but is accepted as the norm, making burial an uncommon and dying-out process in this country. British crematories (crematoria) differ enormously than thos in the United States. The attendants at the funeral are made a part of the whole cremation process, up until the point of the handing over of the coffin to the cremation authority. The crematorium, in all cases, features a chapel, wich is used for the funeral service prior to the cremation. Most crematoria give funerals half-hour slots. The coffin is rested on a platform (a catafalque) during the service. At the point of commital, the coffin is obscured from view. This can be attained is many ways: curtains drawing in front of, down on and around the coffin, the catafalque descending into a recess or the coffin withdawing from the catafalque. In the crematory part of the building, the furnaces are housed. These are not called retorts but cremators or cremation furnaces. Only one American cremator is in operation in this country, as they are seen to be of inferior quality. Most crematoria have two or three cremators in operation. Coffins are never placed into a cold retort. The burners in the furnace are switched on prior to the first cremation of the day. An average cremator turns over one cremation in around 80 minutes. The cremator is stll in operation when the cremated remains are withdrawn. I understand that in the US, that cremated remains are reduced down by a machine with blades. In the UK, the cremulator (the processing machine) ha lead weighted balls in it, which pulverise the remains. Most cremated remains are scattered in the grounds of the crematorium, however the burial of cremated remains is increasing in popularity. Different crematoria offer different types of disposal for cremated remains. The fees for the cremation average at about